How and why to wire solar panels in parallel
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- Learn how and why to wire solar panels in parallel.
⏱️Timestamps:
0:06 Intro
0:51 Current and voltage
1:51 Benefits with damaged or shaded panels
3:08 Downside of high current and low voltage
4:13 Overview of wire connections
5:15 Parallel connections with branch couplers
8:43 Parallel connections with combiner boxes
11:15 Measuring voltage and current
12:43 Other videos and resources
For more information, visit: go.umd.edu/FarmSolar
I am teaching myself how to install solar panels and batteries and this is one of the best UA-cam explanations I have come across that I can understand......................Thank You.
Same here, it’s definitely a learning curve. But it is manageable with continued interest in learning.
WOW THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR GETTING TO THE MAIN POINT IMMEDIATELY! I cant believe how many vids (with huge subs on their site) talk & talk I just wanted to know which is better b 4 I install my second panel on my roof ... geeezus THANK YOU AGAIN,
Excellent video, thanks for sharing your wisdom.
One of the best explanations
Finally someone sees this thank you 😊
Thanks for posting this educational video, cheers !
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Now learning about types of connections
Shared on my fb
Most don’t understand circuits
Shading drastically affects series more so so parallel is the way to go
Good info.
Great video
Could anyone help me. I love in UK but have a property in South Africa where we have a borehole or borewdll depending what you call it.
We want to convert it from electricity to solar
The tank for collecting the water sits at about 10m high (it's a double storey house) and the well is 20m deep
What would I need to convert it to basic solar. It would only need to fill the tank which is 2500l twice a day and not run permanently
Thanks in advance
5:29 How about larger cables? There are only MC4 connectors for small cables here, even online. Is it possible to connect 16, 25, or 35 mm² cables in parallel? What do you use when the connectors for the larger cables are not available?
Hey, thanks for the video. We live in a rental property in the UK and I'd like to put a panel/some panels on the balcony. Given that we rent and the panels would be visible from the street (and I haven't exactly asked the landlord) I'm looking at keeping my system as low key as possible. To that end, I'm debating multiple smaller panels in parallel (5x20w panels maybe?) rather than 1x100w panel. Rather than using a whole bunch of MC4 connectors, my idea is to run positive and negative "bus" cables all the way from the battery to the furthest away panel and then have each of the other panels on the way wired directly into the "bus" cables. I know I would have to use the right size cable to handle the combined current, but can you see anything obviously wrong/dangerous with that? Thanks in advance.
Thank you
Q, On boats it is often recommended to wire in series (counterintuitive to me, particularly as on boats there is almost always partial shading) with multiple arrays assigned to diffn controllers based on shading (that bit makes sense) The explanation given is that you get the max charge to your batteries whilst the panels are working, even if only partially.. I sorta get the explanation however it still doesn’t sit well with me. I have mine wired in parallel. Thoughts?
I’ve watched a lot of UA-cam channels on many things, this is streets ahead in terms of visual, graphic and verbal presentation. Many thanks
Interesting video. Question for you if I may, when you cover the solar panels with the cardboard, do they stop generating power instantly or does it take a moment or two for it to dissipate?
I guess he is too busy to respond. But you can see if the current is present with a multi meter, or just a test light. The current, however, goes away pretty much instantly.
Cheers , I ain’t planning on touching it to find out. Was just wondering.@@5400bowen
Do I need to put diode on positive lead of each solar panel before doing parallel connection to prevent reverse flow when one solar panel is under the shade?
Not if you are using a solar charge controller. It prevents battery drain during low or no sunlight
Hello!sorry for my bad English.when they are in parallel,we have more amber.do we have higher thebrature with more ambers?
You get twice the amperage when running two similar panels in parallel. The voltage will be the same as a single panel, or the lower voltage of the 2 panels (if they are different).
Can I have two separate strings of 5 solar panels one in series and one in parallel, going to different charge controllers but charging the same battery bank? Thanks
Yes
Hey bud I have a question I'm wanting to do a series connection of two solar arrays that are run in parallel does that sound ok or do I hafto series each panel and then parallel them?
Go check out: "DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse" channel, and "Hobotech" channel here on UA-cam. They have some excellent information on Solar, and also have special deals on panels, batteries etc..
I have six 120 watt panels wired in parallel. I show 21 volts on my solar controller which is about right. They problem is I only show .2 amps coming to my controller even in bright sun. I replaced the controller with another one and still get the same reading. Any ideas on what could be causing this would be appreciated. thanks.
what kind of solar panel are you using it?
I recommends you to hook up Mono-PERC or Monocrystalline solar panel and its cable sizing .
I'd recogmend checking if you crimped the mc4 connectors correctly. If you connected multiple wires to an in/out box one of those wires might not be connected correctly.
do you have any load on the controller?
if the batteries are fully charged the controller will not pull any power from the solar panels - if there is no load the current has no where to go
Is it ok if the panels were left in open circuit status if waiting for parts?
Yes
hi there, I have bought 4 solar panels 340w ,Max Current (Imp) 9.82A
Max Voltage (Vmp) 34.6V
Short Circuit Current (Isc) 10.51A
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 42.5V
Weight 18.7KG
Dimension 1664x992x35mm
Cell Technology Monocrystalline but I didn't parallel yet I need help before somethings goes wrong LOL, my system run by 48v do I need to do parallel them?
If you do parallel they won't have the voltage to charge a 48v battery.
You'd need to do series or 2 series combined on parallel but need to be sure your charge controller can handle the voltage and your wiring will handle the amps.
@@ChrisEpler thank you my friend for your reply, I have bought 100 amp solar charge controller ,but when I make 4 panels what you call series ,my charge controller red light will be on when I make two panels like as + to - I don’t know what they will call series or parallel , but my battery charge drop down, so I feel this is now more look like 24v system not 48v system, I’m really confused,
if you only have have two panels you should only have 2 sets of wire (+ and -) to hook to the box where do you get the other set of wire from another set of panels
The 3 - 1 & 4 - 1 branch connectors shown are just showing what you would use with 3 & 4 panels running in parallel. 2 - 1 is all you can use with 2 panels.
The title is missleading. Depending on your environment you should go for series or parallel or mixed. Parallel is more expensive (wires and connectors) then series. All the arguments about a panel breaking down is less of an impact, as the chance of a panel breaking down is very very small. Also most new panel have bypass diodes and when parts fail of such panel, it will activate the bypass diodes, acting as the panel was not there and therefor not cutting the performance of the string down to the least performing panel. This on its own is a big caveat of the movie maker. If you live in a climate where there is alot of overcast, go for series string big enough to trigger the startup of the inverter. Most real life household solar installs combine parallel and series to make most of their inverter.
when to use what ?? since the connectors only allow a 30 amp fuse ,that restricts your design..
He covered this in the video, I believe he stated you can run more branch adapters further down line. Each one can handle 30 Amps.
Why does the multimeter dance around when no load is connected to it?
Cheap meter. Use analogue meter or fluke
How would a solar panel fail, so that the series style would not work?
I call that BS! Where do you get those numbers from? (big question mark)
One of my panels failed and took out the solar charge controller in my off grid inverter. I had to purchase a new unit. All my panels are in series.
I would really appreciate some of your time when you get a chance hit me up so we can speak if possible
I took back my request/comment, not friendly owner
You have male and female switched up.
Why do you say "Parelock" instead of "Parallel"...
Who says "parelock"? This guy didn't.
Avoid parallel. String is king
Avoid EdKemp. Context is king.