Creality Ender 3 / How To Level Your X Axis
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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3615 Grandview Drive
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I was told in other tutorials "specifically for the ender 3 v2" that the wheels should be somewhat loose, so it doesn't cause the wheels to wear out due to unnecessary stress. Which I thought was weird, because otherwise the right hand side would essentially be a cantilever without sufficient, force keeping it entirely straight. I'll give this a try, as it makes sense that you want them to have good contact with the rail to maintain it's position.
Same. I thightend the rightside and it fixed my problem
You saved my ender 3 I was bashing my head into a wall trying to fix it. THANK YOU!
Happy to Help!
I was able to skip fully taking it apart by loosening the outside 2 wheels near the PSU and the eccentric nut. i got the measurements level by hand and clamped the x-axis to the bar with a quickgrip clamp. tightend it all up and unclamped. its perfect and rock solid.
Huge help. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my bed was never level. Turns out it was just my x gantry. Couple turns of the eccentric screws and problem solved.
Glad to hear you got it fix. Good luck!
thank you SOOOOOO much. i recently go tit for my birthday, and the print kept smearing on one end of the bed, so naturally i leveled that, like a mad man. only to find out later that the x arm was not leveled at all. and i have just been printing with the bed similarly leveled to the Xarm. but no more thanks to you. the wheel adjustments helped. will adjust accordingly when my caliper comes in. again, thank you sooo much
Good video, imma try this when I get home, without dual Z rods the ender 3 is notorious for the X axis sagging
Those two M4bolts can be replace by two M4x20 & two nuts mounted the other way around(tight fit). Now you can adjust the x-gantry without removing it.
Thank you so much. I have been trying to level my X axis for a long time. This is the first video that actually solved the problem. I did have to go all the way and remove the x carriage, untighten the bolts, adjust the plates so they would be in the right position. But it got me I think 99% level on the x axis. I think that's just a limitation of the overall design.
Thanks man!
That did it. Thank you, sir!
Damn i feel like an idiot... THIS is how it works..., i didn't knew that the middle wheel can be adjusted.... i thought the Frame had an issue -.-' Thanks a lot.
It's ok. we're all idiots.
Great vid and it does work to do what you say. Although even after tightening the four screws I still has a little wiggle. There has to be a mod of some kind to keep side to side wiggle. Maybe put epoxy on rail then tighten all four screws. Might try that.
This was a very helpful video
Really great information for Ender 3 noobs. Thanks and subscribed
Happy to help!
Don't forget to level the be again after you do this, it will be off on the right side.
Thanks for sharing and this should be useful to a lot of owners out there, the way I did it on my Ender3 the upright extrusions were identical in length , so I simply put an engineers square on the top of each of the open extrusions in turn, with the blade pointing down until it touched the X axis bar and then go through the process of repeatedly removing/refitting the x axis to adjust the 2 awkward bolts on the extruder side of the X axis until it sat level with the square just touching the X bar on both extrusions without moving it, on the idler side I left it sit slack until this was done so not to skew the results, after which I snugged up the eccentric nut and then lastly the 2 bolts attaching the X axis bar to the plate - btw some painters tape temporarily wrapped around the coupler and the 2040 upright while your checking can be useful in preventing the axis dropping...
Thank you for saving my sanity!
Perfect video. short and right to the point. thank you very much. i sub'ed just to say thank you.
Thanks for the sub! Glad it helped.
Thank you very much
not sure why one would do this If one levels the bed then there no issue or need to level that axes
...You level the bed to nozzle height in each corner ...so the nozzle is level to the bed ...it dont matter if arm not spot on because well you level
If you axis is off you will never have a true level. Plus you can only rise the bed so high. In my case I raised the bed and the nozzle still wouldn't level because the axis so way off.
If your bed is parallel to your x-axis (as you're saying), but your x-axis is not square to the rest of your machine, then your parts will come out looking like they have a draft angle in the z direction, since the z-axis is still straight up and down. That is why this is important.
Thank you so much for your help!
You're welcome!
Thanks
Second technique seems to have worked for me
Happy to hear that.
Thank you so much.
Obviously the z rod is suppose to lift the whole x-axis. Why would spinning the rod move only one side of the x-axis?
I hope you get a check from youtube because your videos are always very informative.
Thanks man, it means a lot. Ha Ha no big checks here man, just enough to maybe buy a box or so of filament.
Thanks, great information. How about adjusting z axis? my z limit switch sometimes seems not bumping after z axis comes down. This breaks my bed leveling since it doesn’t stop at correct z direction all the time.
Have you found a solution to this issue? I am also having the z axis end stop problem
@@andrewtrainor9995 Yes, my z limit switch was broken, changed with a new one and resolved the issue
I'm giving up on the hobby. My bed just keeps going off and the prints fail after 7%. I'm struggling here
THANKS!!!!
Happy to Help
When I try to move up by hand z-motor, left x-brace side starts to rise, but right side not at the same time. It starts to rise after a while. Is this normal or can affect layers height ? Should I fix it with the method you use in this video by thightening the wheel?
I don't know if you corrected this but it must move each side at the same time while having not any loose. Did you correct this?
Good info but it's called an eccentric nut
Yes it is, for some reason i went blank when making the video Ha Ha, Good luck and happy printing.
I've watched a dozen Ender 3 assembly vids. Nobody mentions this. Thanks. Mine were off by 3-4mm.
Happy to Help!
It's true, no one ever mentions this but this is also mostly not how to fix it. Adjusting the right concentric nut never makes any difference, unless your X is already horizontal and just needs to be trued to the rail. Often (apparently, mine was way-off too) the X-stepper assembly isn't at 90 degrees to the rail. The only way to properly true your X is to loosen all four bolts, though the holes in the plate - make a best-guess at a good alignment (you can drop it on backwards on one rail and use a set-square) and then drop it on both the vertical rails to check. Tighten your rollers start to wind X back onto Z, you can accurately measure alignment from the Top of the rails. If you're happy, rise it back off and lock down the bolts, not too tight.
Trying to guess this from the bottom or just assume a true won't do anything. Sorry SAN, it's a good attempt to fix something not often covered on UA-cam but it won't result in a flat X for most people. They have to correct the assembly error, accurately. xxPD
You can also cheat, which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters. Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Rinse and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment - not now. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
Thanks PD that worked for me! :D
Also me... No one like this video... Thanks
Thank you, I'll put this in my "video toolbox" for future reference.
Slvrbllt44 happy to help.
@@SANTUBE You can also cheat, which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters. Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Rinse and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment - not now. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
thank you so much....I've been battling my x axis shift and this is the first video/tutorial that really breaks down how to adjust the x axis......you are definitely a huge contribution to the the 3d printing community.
I'll try the second part of the video. Sadly, the first (playing with the bearings and the eccentric nuts) made my difference between the left and right go from 1mm to 3mm.
Hiya San, a really big thank you for this upload. Numbnuts here forgot to tighten the second screws (the 2 fiddly ones with the holes you have to access) and have spent the last couple of days 'adjusting' the rollers to no avail. Yes, I completely forgot the two fiddly screw were snug but not tight. If I hadn't seen this video I would have to go back to the Ggeeetech a30. I bought the Ender 3 pro after watching Nerys review. I cannot begin to imagine why (to date) 13 people disliked this video. I must, therefore, deduce that 13 villages have lost their idiots. :)
very wise words
Definitely worked mate, printers been doing a flawless job aside from a little lopsidedness. The first fix involving just the loosening and tightening to let it settle naturally worked like a charm. A little surprised this was ACTUALLY a five minute job for once. Thank you very much. Once it falls out of alignment, I'll be back!
This works on the Ender-3 v2, by the way; thanks for the help
No, no we cant see how your measuring. Your hand is in the way.
My x-axis is still off by about 2mm, any ideas?
I was up to a point where I thought the bed was warped or the structure deformed as the nozzle was getting stuck to the bed from the center to the left. I even thought of disassembling the entire printer and assembling it all over again until I saw this video. The right side of the X axis was over 1cm higher than the left and now I can finally level the bed. Thanks a lot for this video
Thank you for this! Apparently my X axis seems to be level, so I didn't have to go further than taking a ruler to my X gantry. But I just want to express appreciation for the info you've shared with everybody because it's helped so much of us!
Good job. I solved my problem with the x axis with this video. After many attempts to level it, I found this video, which I recommend. Thanks for sharing
I leave the two plate mounting screws on the right end (by the power supply) loose, until every thing else is adjusted. That allows the right end plate to 'align' itself to its Z rail when you tighten that eccentric. Then, when you tighten the two plate screws, there is no alignment torque applied to the X axis.
This needs to be first comment! Its been so long since I needed to make adjustments that I forgot this trick made it super easy to adjust properly! Thanks for the reminder Doug!
I have been trying for so long and this comment legit just fixed it in minutes. Thank you so much this needs to be top comment.
On my Ender 3, the X-axis V-slot extrusion looks like it's really not level compared to the table the machine is sitting on (or even just visually comparing to the 90 deg angles on the top cross-member V-slot extrusion. On the Ender 3, the tighter the wheels on that right side are "hugging" that right-hand side vertical V-slot extrusion, the less wobble (or play) you're have on your X-axis V-slot extrusion. I check it by hand every few weeks or so to make sure the V-wheels haven't loosed. Tightening those eccentric nuts usually deals with any play. But I still notice that the skewed X-axis. I don't know what else to do, apart from upgrading to a dual Z-axis to really get rid of all wobble or play on that X-axis extrusion....
Dude, I think you just saved my printer's life. I was about to toss it in the trash! :-P Thanks for this video!
I’m here 5 years later to thank you! I’m going to try this. One side of mine says 1 8th of an inch. And I have to print something for a customer. Hopefully this helps but I’ll go try
you know i did this set up from morning until now 12 :00+ am and i just heard my neck crack very loud .i worked so hard i wanna cry
Help me . here's my problem: (ender 3 v2)
the left part is too tight. ;___; and its so stiff to lift it up or lower it.......while the right side is loose, In the front view the x axis isnt even leveled properly as the right side with wheel kinda goes down while the left is kinda lifted up.
I dunno if its the screw knob thing to turn around i did that too but not working or Im doing it wrong. .
ill watch this now, but please someone help me ;__;
Thank goodness for this video!! I had a sagging X-axis and this was the perfect tutorial on fixing it!
Sorry for late reply, Happy I could help!
Ok, I love the video San and appreciate your hard work - however, this is the super-difficult way to do it and probably won't result in a true X-rail for most people.
HERE's HOW TO CHEAT >> Which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters, like San does 02:20
.
Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
.
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Adjust again and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
im glad i didnt AV TO TAKE IT TO BITS AGEN XX
oops :)
Thanks James!
Worked like a charm :)
I couldn't get a good result with the video, but your trick got it to dead center.
If you loosen the concentric nut too much, the screw itself will start turning... I had to use some pliers to hold the screw while I tightened the nut.
This is confusing as hell... "get a rule or piece of paper and crease it against top rail on the right"... what are you trying to say here? What are we checking to make sure it's the same? I'm sorry, but I'm really confused by the terminology you're using. None of it seems to line up with anything I've seen about how to correct these types of problems.
What does rinse and repeat mean? Adjust the screws underneath the plates?
I think he's essentially saying to check the gap matches at the top. You could use a ruler or calipers - I cannot imagine why you'd prefer to measure using creased paper.
I'm not convinced by this approach as it works on the assumption that your 2020/2040 extrusions are all cut perfectly to length and thus the top is an accurate place to measure how square the gantry is. This only works if you are one of the lucky ones whose extrusions were all cut perfectly during manufacture but the rest of us need to check the entire frame is square, not just that the gantry is level with the top beam.
I'd just put two items of equal height (e.g. a spice jar) between the gantry and the horizontal extrusion beneath the bed on each side. Now loosen any and all frame screws plus the gantry screws then tighten them back up again. As long as your printer was sat on a flat surface, your frame should now be as square as it's going to get without modification. In addition, your gantry is now tightened level to that squared frame.
While you've got the printer disconnected, take the time to verify your leadscrew lines up with the motor coupler too as that's another common cause of z-binding with Ender 3s.
Very well done. I love your idea of using the foam to rest the printer on and roate.
First, I am appreciative for the informative video, it is the first that I have found that has actually helped...somewhat. I say that because even after removing my x-axis gantry and tightening the plate screws, which weren't loose at all then replacing everythingand tightening the wheels again, I am still a full sixteenth of an inch lower on the right side of my x-axis gantry. I was an eighth prior to this. Perhaps I just have a defective printer?
The ender 3 rail system is a horrible design. However, it's what I have and this video helped me understand it a bit better. It took a lot of playing around to get mine near level. I got it within 0.5mm. I don't believe it's actually possible for it to be level. A second motor on the Z would fix this issue and maybe an upgrade in the near future or maybe I'll go for a CoreXY. My bed level problems were never a problem till I got a BLtouch. That's when parts got slanted
the single (dumb) nut that holds the extruder (and bolts the left side of the gantry arm) on my old ender 3 V2 is loose and the arm wants to move upwards, what can I do? I tried tightening it and it turns but doesn't get tighter
Hey man, did all the steps but my X axis on the right side is loose, i can move it up and down with my hand qith a little bit of force, is that normal? i have ben able to print by moving it up so that it makes the first layer well enough to keep printing and it does, but it does seem like i HAVE to do tht every time, so is it normal or should i look into another work around?
Here you talk only about the wheels on the right side but what about the wheels on the motor side? Do they need the same treatment? Everytime I tighten my nuts, my right side seems too tight so it moves after the rod gets everything up. I will unmount again tomorrow and level again. I have a Bltouch so leveling is different.
Great video! I am linking it on our website!
I finally figured out what was wrong almost a completely accurate video but there is an eccentric nut on opposite side by the extruder that was loose for me from shipping
Got a little issue with mine, will try you methods tomorrow, thanks for the tape measure tip on measuring if it actually is not level
thanks a bunch. noticed the right side of my printer wasnt raising as fast bas the left at the start of prints causing them to lean slightly. Noticed a few of my wheels werent even touching fixed the issue
bought mine used... someone had no freaking clue what they were doing
lol
Thanks for the video. My X-Axis was off by big time when I relocated it. This did the trick quickly and bad printing again
Good luck and happy Printing.
Cant tell you how many times i tried to just tighten and loosen all the wheels thinking it was helping
Thank you SO much. I've been having a ton of issues due to an unlevel X-axis and now it's all resolved. Thanks for the video, all was explained really well.
You're welcome!
Thank you for posting. I was struggling with this thinking it was all in the plates. Cheers!
Happy this help.
2:48 litteraly fixed it for me. I started wiggeling both sides and boom its level as hell now.
I watch so many videos and this one final addressed my problem so thanks so much
thanks this really helped. You sure do have some high outlets in this room 😀
Mine doesn't seem to have a centric nut anywhere on the x axis???
Thanks very helpful even though it printed fine because the bed was levelled with it this was a good idea
Glad it was helpful!
Somehow I manage to adjust bedlevel and all runs smooth... until 18 months later I recognize that X axis has 5mm difference! First I try to adjust eccentric nut from right side but it has no effect. But there is another on another side too. After fiddling both I have nos less than 1mm difference. Maybe this big difference cause some weird behaviour to my CE 3.
There would be many things but for most part this is the simplest fix. Goo luck to you bud.
my MP maker pro mk1 has issues like that (mostly caused by me...). I found I could level using a short bubble level and adjusting the rods as you showed, BUT!!!! the printer has to be off and unplgged or the other motor senses the change and moves too. Not sure why that happens, but Ive had good luck doing that if its off and disconenected. Good vid and thanx for posting it
Happy to help!
Simple physics tells us that the X axis column must be at right angles to Y axis columns. The two V rollers on the left column are not adjustable, and therefore the only way to achieve this is by getting the X axis column at a right angle to the Y axis column with the two screws that attach the bracket to the X axis just snugged up and either using your ruler method or better an engineers square to adjust the angle to 90deg, THEN tighten the screws fully. This must all be done with the right side bracket screw also loose. Once the left side correct and the screws tightened, then you can simply tighten the right side screws as that side will self-align. The V roller adjusters are ONLY there to adjust the roller tension on the rail, they should NOT be used to force the frame into square.
Agreed!
This helped me level X on my Sovol SV01. Thanks!
🙌 Thanks man, this really helped me to get closer to a decent print 👌
Great video :)
idk how to dm on youtube i cant get this level no matter what i do
you are my hero, thank you for solving my issue
thank you very much for this video :) I managed to adjust those bolts in 4:30 without disconnecting anything. Just gotta be gentle, slow and careful ;)
This was really helpful in getting my sagging axis back on plane!
Sorry for late reply, Happy it worked out for you.
@@SANTUBE Me too, thanks so much!
Thank you so much for this video. You fixed my problem with the printer! Subscribed :)
happy to Help!
Or... just put a level across Z axis rail.. a lot easier
Thanks, great video, I appreciate how you sometimes run the picture faster while talking in the background. My x-gantry was off by several degrees, i'm going to fix it now after seeing this! thanks
sorry for late reply but i am happy to see you got it going.
Thank you! helped me a lot!
Does these methods work with dual lead screws printers? I have a CR-10 V3.
Yes it does. I would high recommend doing this with dual z.
I appreciate you, thank you.
my x axis doesn't go down when i auto home?
THANK YOU! ALL OF THESE OTHER GUIDES SUCK! You just earned your self a subscriber!
Thanks, this helped :)
tl;dr Mess with those 2 nuts until the x axis is the same distance from the base on both sides. The left nut affects the right side of the x axis, and vice versa. Make sure everything else is square and tight :)
The problem for me is that you can't access the bolts on the brackets while the gantry is on. I really think they could've drilled a clearance hole in the z axis rails to stick an allen wrench through.
Thanks for the video mine came loose after a Long time and couldnt figure out what was wrong but your video helped so Many thanks🙏🙏🙏
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Many, MANY thanks for doing this. No matter what I do on the right, the right is 4-6mm higher soon as I tighten back up, AND the TOP OUTER RIGHT SIDE wheel is barely touching the side even once tightened?? Any advice please? Should I take the axis off altogether?
Russian vids????
I thought there was something wrong with adjusting the x-axis via coupling. Thanks!
just loosening the wheels a little bit worked like a charm, thank you so much!
So, what do I do if these didn’t work for me? Mine is still significantly higher on the right side. High enough that I can’t level the bed and it won’t meet the bed. Thanks!
1:16 The screen demands to be peeled!!!
I installed an XYZ linear rail kit on my ender 3 v2... Can't get 1 corner to tram... It would seem like my x is tram to the frame... I'm so lost
If you can send me a video I Can help more.
@@SANTUBE right on as soon as I get it back together again I will do that thank you. I will send you money if you can help haha
Hi . I know you want to keep the video short, but you rushed through the first option so fast, I didnt understand what you did ,your arm was in the way on some of it , so I couldn't see what you was doing . I am a cnc programmer/setter , so I am by no means stupid. I really wish you guys stopped using time lapse on things people need to see .
Petet Bates sorry about that. I can go over it with u if u want.
Heres what I think you did , you loosen the 2 outer wheels, then you moved the inner wheel off , then tighten the outer wheels hand tight , finally you turned the inner wheel to take up the slack . Please don't get me wrong, I like your uploads , otherwise I wouldn't have subscribed, but I know If I'm not sure what you did , there are a lot of people who would just turn off.
Petet Bates you are correct, the only thing i did different is tighten the outside wheel more then just hand tight. I see what ur getting at. I will try not to shorten my videos more then I need too.
That would be great , I really enjoy watching your uploads , you do a great service , you ender 3 video helped me put mine together. So thanks.
Ps . The ender 3 is my fifth printer.
The two bolts holding the right side on were what did it for me, those are really easy to reach so before taking the whole x axis off try adjusting them first, just loosen it and try to hold it where you want it and tighten them back up