also instead of putting some stuff underneath , i would prefer file the top of the other side to make it shorter , bottom need to sit firmly on the flat surface !!!
If the right side is higher, wouldn't backing off the eccentric nut on the lead screw side allow the right side to drop? Also I'm not a fan of the idea of levelling the x gantry to the top of the frame since extrusion lengths of the vertical uprights might be slightly different. I much prefer to ensure left and right sides are the same distance from the base frame when the Z-steppers are off.
My top frame is not leveled either, the left side is shorter as well. Printing out some shims to test and then will go with washers. When will the x-axis fix video be uploaded? Thanks for the info!
Thank you for your advice! I got a Ender-3 S1 Pro 3D Printer. Unfortunately, the Z-Axis seems too high when I print, end up the Filament doesn’t get the chance to stick to the bed, before cooling down. I was advised to adjust the Gantry to set up the Z-Axis to lower a couple of millimetre or so, it prints without any problem. I believe, “Our World is a Shared Experience.” When I got the Printer, it was already assembled in the Box including the Light Bar. I just installed the Nozzle module to Gantry and the Gantry to the Base. Can you advice me or any tips, how I can adjust the Gantry, please? You can see a video I just uploaded with the problem, so to have the idea what I meant. I shall look forward to hearing from you soon. Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* … 🖖 Cheers brother-man…
Has anyone successfully I tegratwd the WobbleX as a solution to this problem? I have an elegoo neptune 3 pro and it seems like the center of the bed is high until I realized that the massive print head is pulling down the X axis supporting z-rod nut at the right when the head goes all the way to the left ....and pulls down the left when the head is all the way to the right ....leverage being maximized at the ends but equally distributing and therefore not as dramatic a sag when in the middle ......giving the illusion of a warped bed that is peaked or high in the middle.
The length of the support beams have no influence on how level the x gantry is. Unless you are measuring from the top of the frame. Don't do this! Levelness starts at the table it's on and works up from there. Do measurements from the bottom rails or even the table top.
Mechanically, it doesn't matter whether the side rails are exactly the same height above the frame or not. You shouldn't use the top rail as a reference anyway. What does matter is whether the side rails are the right distance apart to match with the wheels, and whether the side rails are exactly parallel to each other. My Sovol was machined about 1mm too narrow at the bottom and the rails were not parallel. It took a lot of tinkering and shims to get everything square. The best advice is to never trust the machine work on the cheap printers. Measure and check every subassembly before putting it all together. The manufacturers are pulling supposedly identical parts out of a box and slapping them together, and most of the time, something will be wrong. The whole 3-wheel cheap-as-dirt rail system is flawed from the start.
what will happen if you move one of the led screws manually while printer is off, one side of the x axis will move down . it will missalign easily , NO?
Why couldnt you just disconnect the spider coupler from the added z stepper(on the rightside) and manually screw the z rod to get the appropriate level? Both steppers should still be in sync, just the mechanical connection has changed to the stepper.
Me da igual la impresora, me da igual la mazmorra desde la que grabas o la mierda que tienen la mesa, la impresora o incluso tu camiseta ¡Me da igual todo! Acabo de descubrir unos tirantes optimizados para cagar y eso vale mas que cualquier modificación que puedas hacerle a cualquier impresora. Eres mi nuevo dios
also instead of putting some stuff underneath , i would prefer file the top of the other side to make it shorter , bottom need to sit firmly on the flat surface !!!
And to think this is what came up when i googled "leveling your stove by 2 degrees" 😂😂😂
Do you have a video on how to install the 2nd Z axis?
If the right side is higher, wouldn't backing off the eccentric nut on the lead screw side allow the right side to drop? Also I'm not a fan of the idea of levelling the x gantry to the top of the frame since extrusion lengths of the vertical uprights might be slightly different. I much prefer to ensure left and right sides are the same distance from the base frame when the Z-steppers are off.
I have the anycubic neo mine is lower and needs to go higher can you adjust this?
My top frame is not leveled either, the left side is shorter as well. Printing out some shims to test and then will go with washers. When will the x-axis fix video be uploaded? Thanks for the info!
Thanks Mate, A really well-presented dissertation on exactly the questions I had.
Thank you for your advice! I got a Ender-3 S1 Pro 3D Printer. Unfortunately, the Z-Axis seems too high when I print, end up the Filament doesn’t get the chance to stick to the bed, before cooling down. I was advised to adjust the Gantry to set up the Z-Axis to lower a couple of millimetre or so, it prints without any problem. I believe, “Our World is a Shared Experience.”
When I got the Printer, it was already assembled in the Box including the Light Bar. I just installed the Nozzle module to Gantry and the Gantry to the Base. Can you advice me or any tips, how I can adjust the Gantry, please? You can see a video I just uploaded with the problem, so to have the idea what I meant. I shall look forward to hearing from you soon. Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* … 🖖 Cheers brother-man…
I feel like I found an engineer in his makeshift work space in Half Life 3.
If valve could count to three...
Has anyone successfully I tegratwd the WobbleX as a solution to this problem? I have an elegoo neptune 3 pro and it seems like the center of the bed is high until I realized that the massive print head is pulling down the X axis supporting z-rod nut at the right when the head goes all the way to the left ....and pulls down the left when the head is all the way to the right ....leverage being maximized at the ends but equally distributing and therefore not as dramatic a sag when in the middle ......giving the illusion of a warped bed that is peaked or high in the middle.
The length of the support beams have no influence on how level the x gantry is. Unless you are measuring from the top of the frame. Don't do this! Levelness starts at the table it's on and works up from there. Do measurements from the bottom rails or even the table top.
Good info. Since I'm a machinist and have access to a CNC mill, I'll consider milling the components to match each other.
be better off with a non cnc mill my guy u guna program all for two holes
Mechanically, it doesn't matter whether the side rails are exactly the same height above the frame or not. You shouldn't use the top rail as a reference anyway. What does matter is whether the side rails are the right distance apart to match with the wheels, and whether the side rails are exactly parallel to each other. My Sovol was machined about 1mm too narrow at the bottom and the rails were not parallel. It took a lot of tinkering and shims to get everything square. The best advice is to never trust the machine work on the cheap printers. Measure and check every subassembly before putting it all together. The manufacturers are pulling supposedly identical parts out of a box and slapping them together, and most of the time, something will be wrong. The whole 3-wheel cheap-as-dirt rail system is flawed from the start.
what will happen if you move one of the led screws manually while printer is off, one side of the x axis will move down . it will missalign easily , NO?
Thank you so much, I've been trying figure out for three days what was wrong. I could tell something wasn't level but didn't know where else to look.
You could shim the top as well.
That is not gonna make the same angle correction as you put washers at top screws you need to put washers underside of bottom screws.
Great info! Info was shared in a very clear and precise manner. I'm now a new subscriber! Fyi...I like the suspenders...a true rebel! :)
That is the problem i facing now 😭 left lower than right
The z axis screws need to be lined up
OK, this may be the issue I am having. I will recheck the lengths tommorrow.
You assumed that everyone use a Y-splitter for the motors and a single driver
Dude is that a spider in the background??
Very good info that makes complete sense. Thank you. My ender 3 V2 is 4mm higher on the right hand side. Time to 3d print a part. Oh the irony.
This is supreme neckbeard content
This is legitimately useful informationn Don't be such a dick.
Thank You ❤
Why couldnt you just disconnect the spider coupler from the added z stepper(on the rightside) and manually screw the z rod to get the appropriate level?
Both steppers should still be in sync, just the mechanical connection has changed to the stepper.
Good info, thanks!
Me da igual la impresora, me da igual la mazmorra desde la que grabas o la mierda que tienen la mesa, la impresora o incluso tu camiseta ¡Me da igual todo! Acabo de descubrir unos tirantes optimizados para cagar y eso vale mas que cualquier modificación que puedas hacerle a cualquier impresora.
Eres mi nuevo dios
Good info. Very well spoken. But if you want to be taken serious, do some cleaning.
It was a spir of the moment kind of video. But yeah, it is pretty cluttered.
Why would someone need to meet your arbitrary standards to be taken serious?