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Everything You Should Know About Installing Cams (96-04 Mustang 4.6 5.4 2v 4v)
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2022
- It's worth the one hour watch, lots of valuable information along with tips and tricks on installing aftermarket camshafts onto your 1996-2004 Mustang GT 4.6 2v 4v, even for the 5.4 modular motor. Concept is very similar to the 3v 4.6 Mustangs as well the the Coyote 5.0s. I'm not the smartest dude out there but I'm definitely trying to share whatever knowledge and experience I've carried along the journey. Please share any suggestions, thoughts, or advice down below in the comments.
THE ONLY TIMING CHAINS I WOULD RECOMMEND ARE FORD OEM!!!!!!! DON'T MAKE SAME MISTAKE I MADE BY USING AN AUTO PARTS STORE CHAIN. NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM ON A STOCK MOTOR FOR THE MOST PART BUT ANYONE WITH AFTERMARKET CAMS SHOULD GET FORD ONES TO RETAIN STOCK CAM TIMING!!!!!!
- Ford OEM Chains for 4.6 2v --- www.modularhea...
ON THE OTHER HAND, CAM TENSIONERS, ARMS, & GUIDES from the auto parts stores are fairly safe to use, but if you want to play it extra safe, just get the Ford whole timing kit here if you can't afford the $500 Ford Performance Timing Set
- Ford OEM Timing Kit (without cam gears & crank sprocket, REUSE YOUR OLD ONES IF THEY ARE ORIGINAL AND IN GOOD CONDITION)
-- www.freedomrac...
ARP 12mm Cam Bolts - www.amazon.com...
Haynes Repair Manual for Mustangs - www.amazon.com...
Assembly Lube - www.amazon.com...
Felpro Valve Stem Seals I used - www.amazon.com...
(I would recommend Viton for HIGH PERFORMANCE USE, not much difference compared to OEM ones I used but either or is just fine)
Viton Valve Stem Seals - www.rockauto.c...
Valve Spring Compressor - www.ebay.com/i...
Pliers that help with installing/removing valve stem seals - www.harborfrei...
Vice Grips (best ones) - www.harborfrei...
Cam Holding Tool (if you don't want to use vice grips) - www.amazon.com...
Engine Oil I Use (Motorcraft 5w-30 Synthetic Blend) - www.walmart.co...
NOTE: I use to buy these gallon jugs when they were $19.98 each and it was the best price ever but I recommend using ANY full synthetic oil (I prefer Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic but you can just get whatever is cheapest, even SuperTech Full Synthetic is ideal, if you don't believe me then do your research and take a look at Project Farm's oil comparisons on UA-cam) if you are going for VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE USE since there's barely any conventional oils or synthetic blends these days on shelves. I have fun with my car as a daily driver but I only drive it like 3,000 miles MAX each year so synthetic would be a waste of $$$ for me but synthetics cost as much as conventional/synthetic blends these days. Ignore the 5w-20 indication on your oil cap, these motors were engineered to run on 5w-30, NA or Boosted, FOR THE MOST PART. 5w-20 was just for CAFE standards that is supposed to give you "better MPG".
Also yes, it's true that the Oil pressure gauges on our cars are "dummy gauges" and read normal when ECM recognizes 6 psi or oil pressure, or even 1 psi or oil pressure, or none at all lol.
Specs:
2001 Mustang GT 4.6 2v
- Stock romeo block, pi heads (stock valve springs)
- Todd Warren Cams (230/230 Duration @ .050, .545/.525 Lift, on a 110 LSA with a 1.5 degree ground-in advance).
- Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
- Ford PI Intake manifold
- BBK Long Tubes (1-5/8")
- BBK Catted H-Pipe
- Full 2.5" to 3" exhaust
- Flowmaster 40 original series mufflers
- 3.73 gears
- Ford/Eibach Convertible “G” Springs (1.2” drop all around)
- MM Full length subframe connectors
and all the other bolt ons like JLT fenderwell CAI, BBK 70mm Ported & Polished TB, C&L Plenum, Spec Stage 2 Clutch, Jeg’s Aluminum Driveshaft, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, etc.
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*ATTENTION:*
IF REPLACING YOUR TIMING COMPONENTS, *USE FORD OEM TIMING CHAINS* IF YOU HAVE AFTERMARKET CAMS! Not doing so can yield in cam timing/ptv issues if cams AREN'T degreed. I've been told by *Todd Warren* himself that auto parts store cam tensioners, arms, and guides are good (so in my case, the Duralast guides/tensioners are perfectly fine), but chains must be by Ford if you are really serious about this stuff. Whoops on my parts for using chains from a Duralast Timing Set but no issues so far so I can't complain but now I'm aware for next time, especially since I didn't degree my cams. REUSE YOUR STOCK CRANK/CAM GEARS IF THEY ARE ORIGINAL!
Ford OEM Primary Chains: www.modularheadshop.com/i-24493841-oem-ford-4-6l-primary-timing-chain-set.html
Ford OEM Secondary Chains (4v folks): www.modularheadshop.com/i-24493845-oem-ford-4-6l-5-4l-4v-secondary-timing-chain-and-sprocket-set.html
I also should add that you can REUSE TTY Bolts. MULTIPLE TIMES. Whether it’s a rod bolt, side bolt, main bolt… even if they have 700,000 mikes you can still reuse them. I know hardcore street racers making 800HP in their Fords, reusing stock hardware. I made it clear that you can reuse pretty much any bolts in the video, although I may have exaggerated the TTY part where a bolt might not get up to it’s full torque spec lol. That’s only in the most extreme cases. This will always depend on application and age of build. I’ve reused head bolts on cars before but that’s one bolt I’d for sure replace since why not…
I bought new cam bolts just because I heard that you can’t really reuse them anymore unless you get ARP ones… who knows how true that really is though but it’s cheap insurance. You could get the Ford bolts too but if you’ll be degreeing using via “filing the cam key” method then I’d get ARP bolts since you’ll have to take the bolts off and on multiple times to achieve your desired Intake Center Line.
Exactly or reuse the originals, the cheap ass timing chains dont work and will tear up your motor.
We have a lot of folks opt to change the valve springs with compressed air because they don't want to lose their timing. That is where they to take the cam sprockets off and accidentally have the chain. The timing chain for each camshaft accidentally slip off the idler or crank pulley LOL. That is a freaking disaster. That means you got to tear it down and redo it whole timing
Where did you get that air intake tube
@@DustinLeopard-wc3ez It’s a JLT “Next Generation” Fender well CAI. I don’t think they sell them anymore which is stupid as hell. It’s a REALLY NICE piece and the tubing is the widest that you can possibly get for these cars. Servicing the air filter is a nightmare if you drive your car a lot since it’s like under the bumper by the fender, but it’s a cool CAI tbh.
glad I came across your channel Hermano, extremely priceless information. You deserve wayyy more subs. hope your channel grows more and keep the videos coming!!
That is one of the cleanest engine compartments I've ever seen. Nice job.
Thanks! That's what a little simple green and Aerospace 303 protectant can do.
I remember when u could get a came from under $270.00 just 8 yrs ago. As much as they are now I be going to pick n pull, same price as 8 years ago does the same thing as new $1200.00 does. Thank u for being generous with yr time. Happy fixing peace
Made me way more comfortable with doing my cam install, I’m worried about the timing aspect because I want to change my timing chains and guides as well but definitely got more of a understanding on everything else in this video
Yeah there’s definitely a lot of help via UA-cam. Timing these motors is actually pretty easy, the hardest part is taking the timing cover off lol. I forgot to mention in the vid, but my timing chains weren’t marked with black links on each end like everyone else’s are, so I made my own black sharpie marks… As long as they line up accordingly, your motor will be timed correctly. Good luck with your cam install! 🙂
Great video very informative 👍🏻 your definitely right about getting a tune. when I put Ford Hot Rod cams in my 2010 F-150 I ran them for like 2 weeks without a tune and it would stall constantly when slowing down, and buck horribly lol
I fitted Energy Suspension Poly-urethane engine mounts to my 98 GT and they haven't caused any unwanted vibrations! Definitely recommend them!
Nice! Yup I just got done putting those same exact poly mounts on my 02 Turbo Mustang GT (different car than in video) and I haven’t started the car yet but definitely excited to see how they feel.
For a younger dude you've got some great experience.
Many thanks! I remember when I was first THINKING about adding mods to this car back in like 2018, there was not much good information out there. I did all the research I could & finally uncovered what works and what doesn’t, ultimately by just doing it.
I never really liked talking to people who sell parts (even though they may offer great advice) because… well…. they just care about selling you parts you may or may not need lol. I’m cheap as hell, I’ve saved hundreds off my parts with coupon codes & sales. At the end of the day, I’m just somedudeguy who is trying to help those who were once in my boat.
@@McLovinsFunhouse word, you preach truth. Unfortunately a chip is not going to give you 40hp. If you want to run on the street, you need to get into the motor Ford , Chevrolet whatever. Unfortunately not everyone has the dollars or access to a garage and that's the bottom line. Having room to work miracles Dad was into the scene and well probably you learned similarly. Mopar mostly. Chrysler K-series sleepers. Trash really. Mechanics are a dying breed. I find your projects and curiosity endlessly interesting. Your videos likely make others envious as well. Please keep posting. 😎
@@McLovinsFunhouse 👍
Thanks bro a video with real information!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! I tried including just about everything an average joe would need to know when doing cams (types of cams, parts you may or may not need, power gains, etc.), really the only thing I didn't cover is actually HOW to do the job which will be different for everyone since some folks have 4v Mustangs some have 2v, some have cams that need piston notches, some have cams that don't even need to be degreed. Main thing here is timing the motor, if you can do that with help of other UA-cam videos that'll explain it way better than I ever could, then you're golden. I had no idea how to time a 4.6 2v before doing cams.
@@McLovinsFunhouse the info is good so you can actually defend you self against bad mechanics and false guru info, now a question? Because I'm going Tru some bad stuff I got a 98 gt convertible I think my timing tensioners fail and my engine is done so question? What crown Vic engine can I just drop in my gt? So I can have my gt back is cheaper than open the engine for now i really appreciate your time. Keep the good work!
@@trxcorsair Any 2001 - 2011 Crown Vic motor bolts right in. Easy way to go from non-pi to pi engine : )
Have a jeep 4.7 and while freshening up the top end, valve seals, springs, man that was work. I did it with the engine still in place, my jeep uses the same comp cams springs as a Ford.
That’s awesome man, yeah it can definitely be a mission to do all this work but it’s always rewarding in the end.
@@McLovinsFunhouse totally, the curiosity and the journey it's like building a home or anything that fires you up. Even a go-cart. Watching your project take shape makes me grab a wrench or start browsing for some HP! Hahahah
You are the literal goat. Your info is fantastic
I just got done watching this. great vid man!
Hell yeah I appreciate it! I’m learning day by day but love to inspire others in the mustang community when I can.
Awesome information bro 🤝
Thanks for your good video with your great work and keep up the good work
Got comp stage 3 broke2 valve springs on the 1 2 shift track heat trick flow springs and retainers 300 bucks revs to 7500 all the valve control
Very informative video, are the cams themselves marked left and right? Got mine not in a box and now I’m worried
Hmm, I would honestly get in contact with Todd Warren on Facebook or join one of his FB Groups since he is the google of camshafts lol. Send/post a screenshot to Todd Warren or to one of his FB groups and he’ll let you know as to which side goes where hopefully. I visually inspected my old MHS Stage 2 cams (don’t plan on selling) and both cams had the same writing engraved, but none actually had which side labeled on either cams. If that fails, then I’d visually compare cams that are already in your car with the “new” ones and see which lobes line up on which side of engine if that makes sense
But for me i really don't like loud sound, I love the quiet sound of the engine , like new car, I have an 08 grand marquis the sound of the engine is very quietly, and again keep up the good work
Hey love the video. I’ve got to do the valve seals in my 96 2valve. I looked in summit catalog and many kinds of any recommendations to grab or avoid?
Fel-Pro is good. I went with Fel-Pro SS72891 on this White Mustang in the video. There’s a tiny little clear plastic “tube” that comes with Fel-Pro valve stem seals that helps to not scratch the valve when installing them, I have yet to see any other manufacture include this piece. Enginetech S111V is a good one too. They both fit 96-04 Mustang GT.
Working with Chente music 😮💨
Si Señor 🫡
This was a good video, Thank you
Did you remove the oil pan completely? Or can you just drop the bolts that are in the timing cover?
You can just drop the 4 bolts that are at bottom of timing cover.
@@McLovinsFunhouse thanks for the reply!
Hey! I’ve got a 2004 mustang GT with 47k miles- would I get any benefit from extra lift if I haven’t bored my intake? And if so, would I need to upgrade my fuel system, and tune as well? Thanks!
Every cam is different but stuff like porting heads and the intake manifold (assuming we are talking about an aluminum one here lol) will be beneficial as long as it is done CORRECTLY. I’d get a tune regardless of the cam just to be comfortable, some cams don’t need a tune and usually the gain after tune is like 5rwhp. You’ll more than likely need a tune anyways if you add mods. Take what I’m saying as a grain of salt though since I’m not as smart as a dude like Todd Warren when it comes to cam talk. As for fuel system, assuming NA (no boost), I’d just keep an eye out on the fuel filter and fuel pump, just make sure fuel pump isn’t going to run lean on the top end if you plan to rev the piss out of it. I replaced my fuel filter with a Motorcraft one and my fuel pump with a Walbro 255 module assembly (Part # TU229HP-2) since I just didn’t want to take chances, my stocker worked just fine (93K miles) but just wanted to future proof the car so that’s why I added that fuel pump. But in your case at 47k miles, I think you’d be safe. Bigger injectors is 100% a complete waste of money. Stock injectors are good for up to like 330rwhp as long as you have a solid FP.
Ill definitely save this video I think I'm going to leave mine stock I'm at 88,000 miles and I don't really need the cams I enjoy the car stock if I wanna get wild I got a drag car to play with new to Ford engines I'm used to Chevrolet engines so the forward just starting to learn the 4.6 engine a lot of great information 💯🤙
Glad you enjoyed it. These engines don't really get much giddy up without a crap ton of money, and a LOT OF COMPRESSION, which they lack. My setup is decent & I beat pretty much any average car I street race, but I'm far from being the fastest. Honestly, 4.10 gears, long tube headers, & a tune will make these mustangs pretty quick. Chevy motors are honestly just way better for performance, it's easy power. The 4.6 is an incredibly bullet proof engine though, and it's a simple design.
Hey bro, back for another question on this super useful video, I have a question about the valve stem seals job. I ordered all the tools and parts already. Do you have to remove the front cover, chains, and cams? Basically what is necessary to remove in order to compete this job! Thank you
Retaining stock cams or installing new ones, you have to remove valve covers, timing cover, spark plugs, cam tensioners and chains. If not adding new cams but replacing valve stem seals, you can technically get away with not removing cams but I HIGHLY just recommend not giving yourself a nightmare of a job and taking the extra step in doing it right since more space makes it easier. You can't really run away from needing to retime the motor again when doing a job like this.
@@McLovinsFunhouse Awesome thank you! Will be tackling this job soon as I ordered that valve spring compressor tool and valve seals 👍🏻
good job
This is a great video I'm going to build my 04 mustang GT 2 valve I want to make it but only for the street I always wanted a fast car since I was a teenager my parents never let me have one it made me get a Volkswagen bug LOL
Thanks Daniel, glad you enjoyed it. I love it when people like me & you want to make a car "STREET ONLY". I'm currently editing a 10 minute video of pure street races and I'm actually surprised as to how many cars I beat and kept up with. If trying to do launches on the street, get rid of rear street tires all together and get yourself a MT ET Street R radial, rides good on the street and is honestly the best street legal tire I've driven (and daily) on without going to a full ass slick/drag tire. Nitto is ass, don't bother running it and so is Toyo, maybe good for auto but never for a stick car. You will lose most races if you stay with regular street tires in the rear.
Modding these cars is expensive as hell. Best mods for the low low would probably be
---
- Gears (3.73 or 3.90, 4.10s if you want to go all out)
- 93 Marty Ochs tune via SCT X4
- Steeda underdrive pulleys
- Short Throw Shifter (if manual)
- Long tube headers (kind of expensive in the end)
---
Cams are nice, but expensive. I'd focus on maintenance first like new spark plugs (Motorcraft SP-493 are perfect), new fuel filter, suspension work, etc. before starting to blow your $$$ on performance mods. Throttle body, CAI, plenum won't really add much power but they make the engine bay look cool, get that stuff used if you can.
Also, lookup "Motorcraft KH88 Heater Hose" on Amazon. I've had this hose pop out on me once when street racing, not fun, coolant everywhere. The little clamp that is supposed to clamp it down to the back of the intake manifold nipple is shit and doesn't really function as a clamp, PLEASE ADD A REAL CLAMP to really tighten it to the intake nipple, like just a regular clamp that you'd tighten with a screwdriver/socket because it will pop off if you don't. I also had this hose develop pin holes while I was racing a few months ago, had coolant all over my tires, was really scary. I learned to replace that hose. I don't care if it's a low mileage mustang (mine has 99K miles), all rubber will deteriorate with time. Please order a new one of those hoses if you don't want to have any coolant issues when racing. I want to make a video on this stupid hose issue soon since it's a big deal on these cars, and nobody ever talks about it. I knew a guy that totaled his turbo 2v because his original hose popped out and spilled coolant on his tires while he was going like 60MPH, all because of that fake clamp that it comes with, which is why you need to add a REAL one.
I'm 22 years old man I know what it's like having strict parents that don't want you to have a sports car lol. Treat the car like you care about it, do the proper maintenance to get it running perfect, don't go out doing burnouts every weekend, and you will have a car that will be more reliable than 90% of the cars on the road. I intended to keep my car stock since I got it years ago but eventually I started making some $$$ and just told myself "you know what?" lol.
Will this apply to a 1996 grand marquis 4.6 2v cus none ever have that chop sound
Pretty much yeah since it's still a 4.6 2v npi. The main difference is that your motor just has stuff like airbox, throttle body, battery, etc. in different spots but cams should be exactly the same as a 4.6 2v mustang npi. Your heads are a bit different (npi vs pi) but you can still run pi cams in them like mines. A PI swap would do you wonders but most folks just stay with what they have to avoid all the extra work, it’s worth the extra work though. Also, I'm pretty sure your exhaust and tune is totally different compared to the Mustangs, (not 100% sure on exhaust part but that would theoretically make sense to me) that's why the HP rating is slightly lower than a 96-98 stang. Don't be afraid to add cams to your grand marquis, that thing would sound awesome with an opened up exhaust! I've never really heard a cammed Mustang like mines on the street, only at the track unfortunately.
That boy working on his car listening to Chente
Yup, gotta love working on cars with the pops around haha.
Why did you remove the video of ratchet wrenches installation video. Did they reach out to you to remove it?
That’s exactly what they did. They came at me like I was their enemy. It is what it is. I was legally not required to remove anything, but I decided to put some respect on their name. I can still bring it back up in minutes lol but nahhh.
@@McLovinsFunhouse It is because i asked them questions on instagram and they seemed mad. You shouldn't have removed it. They are weird for that.
@@McLovinsFunhouse I asked them where's the video of the cam install because i forgot what bolts went where for the timing chain cover and i thought they'd have a video in detail of it then i linked your video saying you had the video because i couldn't find it anywhere and they seemed mad. 😂
That explains it haha. Not really sure why they got so upset but I explained to them how all I was doing was just informing the Mustang community with good info, even thought I’m not Mr. Perfect. I even clearly said in the vid that they shouldn’t of removed their vid since it had lots of valuable info to it, but I’m sure they caught onto their mistakes early. I wasn’t dissing them at all like how they made it seem.
My dad was right when we would rewatch that video over and over when it was still up, he would just say “no, something isn’t right in this video”. I still have the vid on my computer.
i get locking the cams in place to take the chains off(so they don't move)... but then don't they move when you take the holding tool off? How do you prevent pvt during cam removal if things shift?
I meant PTV
Yeah so cams will still have tension via valve springs even when chains are off. What you can do is remove cam followers (aka rocker arms) by rotating motor by hand to have the lobe in the closed position (out of the way) for the valve so it's easier to pry/pop follower off.
If I remember correctly, I believe I just set the engine at TDC and trusted myself that nothing was going to move enough since I held the cams in place by hand (even with the cam holding tool also holding it) and also walked the cam cap bolts out evenly in a criss cross type sequence.
You could also set the pistons to be low enough to not hit anything by turning the crankshaft key (not the crank gear but the actual spot where you'd put your socket/bolt at and turn it so that the mark on it faces at the 12 o'clock position.
Thanks for the info! How are you enjoying the new cams? Or have you replaced a 3rd time? Ha
@@andys8718 Glad you asked! The cams I currently run are the still the same/second set I have in the video. That’s pretty much as aggressive as I can take it with my current setup, which is going to stay the same for a while since chasing NA power is not really worth it, but at least I’m always ready to street race people. NA power is awesome though since it’s all pure. I’ve had multiple people tell me “damn I wasn’t expecting your mustang to be that fast”.
I have another 02 Mustang GT Vert I plan to tear apart in the next few weeks, like a full on BUILD BUILD, I just now got back from jacking it up super high in the air to weld on some subframe connectors along with the factory torque boxes sometime this week. The Todd Warren Turbo cams for that car just arrived last week, it’s going to be a fun one.
did you have any valve to piston clearance issues ? I'm running the stage 3 comp cams and it's not looking good bruv 💀 making a nasty ticking noise
No PTV issues in my case with the MHS Stage 2s being "pre-degreed", also no PTV issues with these new Todd warren cams that aren't degreed. You will have PTV issues with "stage 3 comp cams" if not degreed. Some even go as far as notching the pistons.
@McLovinsFunhouse yeah then it's confirmed I'm having PTV problems . . .dam . . . 💀 car sounded so good tho ! lol
Hey I have a 04 f150 4.6 2v I’m looking for high end torque long tube headers long chop it’s a automatic I may have to do head gasket and rebuild heads do you have any pointers ?
Comp XE268H wouldn’t be a bad option. I wish I could be more useful in the recommendation department but I do believe the 268s would be real close to what you would want.
Off shelf cams really aren’t all that bad… they still make sound, they still make power, but a custom grind will put you right at the top. If anything, Todd Warren would be your guy to talk to.
I always post in Facebook groups to ask for advice, there’s a bunch but my favorites are “Ford 4v/3v/2v Modular Engine Building” and “Apocalypse Performance/TW Cams Modular Tech Group” for super technical engine questions. Highly recommend joining those and getting a second opinion.
If you do plan on rebuilding the heads, be sure to do the “gas leak” test, where you fill the combustion chambers (where the valves sit) with spark plugs installed and fill them up with gas and see if any leaks (with heads off the car). It could take 5 minutes, it could take a few hours to see results. You could also do a leakdown AND compression test before tearing the heads off, it’s basically the exact same test as the gas test.
You don’t need to do any of that machine shop nonsense if you know what you’re doing, you can lap valves by hand with a drill to fix any leakage 90% of the time. Don’t over do it and DON’T MIX UP THE VALVES. Make sure you place each valve in exact spot you took them out from.
Also, don’t mix up the cam caps when you take cams off… each side is a machined to each head so you technically have to make sure each cam cap goes exactly in the same head it came off of. Also don’t over tighten the cam caps when you tighten them, the cam can lock up when you spin the motor, torque spec is like 8 ft. lbs but I did mines by hand.
Have you started to rebuild your engine yest?
Never really had a need to. Years later, hundreds of launches and 6500 rpm shifts car has never missed a heart beat. I do have a stick shift 02 GT project on the side that I rebuilt with new pistons, rods, bearings, todd cams, turbo, and e85...all garage built. It's still not 100% running yet since I dropped a valve doing a hard pull but yeah car felt pretty damn quick even with just a base tune... but an NA build is always pretty cool too. I needed both lol.
I’m just concerned about installing an aftermarket cam. I have a ‘98 GT and I’m looking to do a PI swap and I wanted to install aftermarket cams… but a lot of people online are saying pretty much anything but the stock cams are gonna have PTV clearance issues? Don’t really know what to do.
Degreeing the cams is really the only option you have. MHS sells a good kit (instead of piecing the parts individually) for like $270. You’d likely need to take motor out to do it that way though, otherwise I think you’d be able to degree using trickflow wheel kit with engine still in car.
Really good info. Thanks! Is there enough room in the engine compartment to swap heads? Or does the motor have to come out?
Thanks! You can swap heads pretty easily with motor still in car, plenty of space to do that. No need to take motor out. You’re still going to have to lower k member (front suspension) regardless to get the manifolds/headers out if not pulling motor out.
Hey so I’m thinking of doing twin turbos, I’m looking for a raspier sound. I’ve found good rods and pistons. I just need help with cams for a 4 valve, I’m having a hard time finding some. Maybe valve springs and rockers too.
Todd Warren/Apocalypse Performance is your guy. I'll be confident enough to say that he's probably the most knowledgeable cam/engine builder guy for any of the ford modular v8s. Very smart man. He can be a bit vague sometimes but he cuts all the small talk and gets straight to the point, exactly the way it should be : )
What is the purpose behind reusing your stock cam/crank gears?
There’s just no reason to buy new cam gears since they really never go bad lol. Same thing with your crankshaft gear if you’ll be reusing stock cams, degreeing using the “file key way” method, or installing aftermarket cams that “don’t need” to be degreed (installing same way you would with a stock cam).
You reuse these components because it maintains stock cam timing, assuming they are the original Ford pieces. This wouldn’t matter if using aftermarket stuff IF YOU WERE DEGREEING CAMS but it messes everything up if you won’t degree the cams.
My stang has nearly 200k miles, would it be wise to install cams?
Not without rebuilding the motor (adding new piston rings, valve seals, head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, etc.). I would hold off until you can reliably build your stang. The rockers and lash adjusters last quite a while on our cars but it would just be a bit expensive for you to do cams since you’d more than likely need to dash out the money for new OEM/FORD rockers and lash adjusters (aka lifter) anyways or else you’ll find yourself digging into the motor after installing cams to fix an issue that could of been avoided if taken the proper preventative maintenance beforehand. Honestly, if you are in love with your stang and have money to spend, I’d go ahead and do cams. I say it like that because it’s so ridiculously expensive to mod our motors for such little power in return 🙃.
In other words, at 200k, I would personally just rebuild motor but if you don’t prefer that route then you could always save yourself some $$$ and time by just overhauling the valve train (rocker arms, lash adjusters, valve seals, valve springs) but even that is still expensive and you’d still be dealing with a ticking time bomb in the bottom end haha, dang. In the end, getting a used 4.6 motor with I’d say less than 120K miles would be the cheapest route but I’m not a fan on telling people to “get a new motor”.
Right lol. I'm in the same spot. I'm at 199K. Lots of highway miles and always kept the maintenance up. Thought about just running a compression test and go from there. If I do cams I'm absolutely overhauling the heads and timing with new components while I'm in there. I love this car, it's been great to me for 13 years. I'd love to do this and have this experience under my belt.
Do I need to degree Comp XE262AH when installing? I keep reading that it's not necessary?
Not necessary
I’m thinking about putting stage 2 cams in my car but I have to pass emissions. Are these cams easy to tune ?
The term “stage 2” is different for every manufacture, but stage 2s in general usually aren’t radical enough to cause issues with emissions. To give you an idea, the MHS Stage 2 cams are baby cams. Easy to tune as long as they are installed properly, doesn’t need to be from a dyno, even an email tune would be enough. Marty Ochs is the best modular motor tuner out there, I don’t care what anyone else tells you. He does email tunes, street tunes, and dyno tunes.
What’s the name of the A/F gauge you have around your steering wheel?
The wideband is an AEM X Series (30-0300) & the actual mount is an AutoMeter 10004. This is the absolute best wideband you can buy right now.
I think one of your mistakes is using the Hayes manual I would advise you to get the Ford manual for your make and model it is way more detailed
I'll be honest, I didn't really read much out of the Hayes manual but there still is good info in it, just can be a bit too wordy without enough pictures. The Ford owners manual (year/model specific) definitely comes in clutch when looking for fuse panel references & fluid capacities, I'll give ya that. Seems like vert fuses are a bit different than coupes, that's the only time I ever pull mines out. The other book I've read a bit from was "How to Build Max Performance 4.6 Ford Engine" by Sean Hyland, it's okay for what it is. Some may argue that everything is on the internet but you can't always find very specific things.
He'll no you can't always find the correct info. I got an 03 gt.
also, quick question about valve stem seal replacement, since i will retain stock cams, do i have to degree stock cams?
No degreeing of cams is necessary when changing out valve stem seals : )
How much did you pay for the Todd warren cams
At the time, $750 + $25 for EACH ARP Cam bolts (so $50 with bolts). He has to give you a link to order the cams, you can’t just place order on his site, orders must go through to him then he’ll send you a link. Go custom cams and don’t look back. I believe they cost the same as off-shelf cams. Be ready to wait a couple months.
Where are you located? Would you help me install my cams if i paid you?
I don’t feel qualified enough to do that service lol. I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
@McLovinsFunhouse we can do bro. I won't hold you to anything. The cams are already degreed. Also it's actually a truck that is wide, WIDE open and super easy to work on. I'll be working along side you and paying reasonably. Let me know.
How long does something like this take?
I hate to say no but I’m gonna have to pass on that offer. I helped my dad fix some cars in our garage over the years and we realized how it was just better to end it, too many issues… The issues on our side were people wanting things for even cheaper than the cheap prices we charged for damn near professional work (even with parts ordered from Rockauto instead of paying crazy local auto part store prices)… the issues on their end was driving cars that were barely surviving and only replacing 1 part every 5 years, if ever. Too much stress on our side and it got so bad that it was tearing our family apart.
The hardest part of the install is taking the timing cover off if I have to be honest. A professional once told me to spin the crank by hand 20 times or so to verify that the engine is on time via marks when you do a timing job, he was right…. very rarely will the “marks” line up spinning it just a few times. If car had 4 cams and a balance shaft or something then yeah I’d be scared but these are pretty simple motors when you study them. Whole install could be done in a weekend if you really worked hard at it, maybe a whole week tops if you really take your time with just a few hours a day.
@McLovinsFunhouse ok, cool. I know the price to do something like this is about $2300. I'm in the service industry with my own business. I respect craftsmanship. I could just pay someone to do it, but I wanted to get dirty and know that I had a part in it. I even have a BRAND NEW ProCharger for it that I paid $5000 over a year ago that I plan to install. The cams I have are Blower cams. Anyway, thanks.
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