Ah ! This video would have saved me a great deal of frustration ! Great info ! Everybody, including those who have a notion about hit and miss engines, should see this before ordering/starting their engine! Paddy
We have had great success using 87 pump gas and Amzoil two stroke oil, 150:1 . Amzoil will lubricate the o-ring and cylinder and valves but won't harm the spark plug. The key is to dump out the unused fuel once you are done running the engine. My advice on starting issues. If the intake valve is not opening, that could be the reason it's not starting. The opposite can be true, once flooded if the fuel is not shut off the engine will not start. If flooded the engine can be turned over until the exhaust valve is open. Once open, let the engine sit for a few minutes to allow the gas to evaporate from the cylinder.
For viewers in the Australian region who can't get Coleman fuel anymore, the local equivalent is Shellite (100% naphtha) and is sold in the paint department of most hardware stores for a fraction of the price of Coleman fuel. The Kerzel HM1 hit & miss engine (a build from plans model) is the original design by David Kerzel of Florida that these Chinese toy manufacturers ripped off. The Kerzel design has a drip lubricator for cylinder lubrication and does not need oil added to the fuel. My Kerzel HM1 runs best on 95 octane premium petrol and will run on naphtha but with less power due to the lower octane rating. I use a Viton O ring for the piston ring and it is still running on the same ring from 18 months ago. Viton O rings are rated for 205C temperature and are highly resistant to petrol and naphtha, but not methanol or acetone.
I will run this on propane. But, not for long as it has no lubrication for the piston and cylinder. It relies on lube from gasoline, diesel or kerosene mix, only after it gets hot (running temp.) This was not built for long running times. After it gets hot, I think you can slow the rpm down a bit by leaning the fuel out. I will see. This is some of the best machine work that I have ever seen. 👍👍👍 Looks like a Fairbanks-Morse 503 or 739. All that is missing is a condenser on top the water hopper. Thank you for reading my short novel!! 😬😬😬
I added the lighter springs to both my vertical and horizontal engines. Alot of difference was made on the vertical. The horizontal however not so much. I believe it has to much compression as when it fires it really gets it spinning. I had read that the vertical has much less compression.
The vertical and horizontal are essentially the same engine. Last year I was told they started placing only one o-ring on the pistons to lower the compression. If your horizontal is an older one, it may still have two o-rings on the piston. You've been wanting to pull the head off anyway. :-) May want some spare o-rings before opening it up, just in case. Personally, I have not opened mine up (if it ain't broke don't fix it). Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
I have a question. But 1st I want to thank you for your awesome videos. Your posts are my go-to as I enter this hobby. I have also looked at many others. Most say that Ethanol Alcohol cannot be used to power these engines. I did some research and found some conflicting reports… “Pure alcohol will rott silicone O-ring pistons, plastic carb parts etc’… others say it will not. I found an interesting article about ethanol mixed with engine lubricants and how they perform in replace of petrol. Anyone can research more of the article by googling the title “Lubrication behavior in ethanol fueled engines” . The article stated that pure ethanol did not contribute any additional friction within the engine even though it thinned out the lubricant. It also stated that there was no varnishing and there was zero sludge compared to sludge left by petrol. I decided to try pure alcohol 97% food grade in my ET1. It works GREAT. Can you tell me why you stated that the engine will not run on alcohol?
There is more than one type of alcohol. Many people don't know the difference or it may be called different things in different countries (different languages). Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol sold in drug stores 70% and 91%) is very dirty burning Methyl (methanol, wood alcohol) clean burning... used in model airplane fuel and race cars Ethyl alcohol (ethanol - the drinking variety) distilled and undistilled Denatured alcohol (ethanol with additives added to make it poisonous) you don't pay alcohol tax on this stuff When the so-called oxygenated fuels or gasohol first came out they were basically shoved down everyones throat with insufficient prior planning. Places like Denver Colorado first mandated this stuff seasonally since the addition or alcohol added more oxygen to the combustion resulting in less carbon monoxide (smog) in the winter months. Older cars on the road did not react well to the alcohol, which attacked rubber (o-rings, fuel lines) aluminum and some nylon/plastics. The general public was not expecting this until it was too late and damage was already done to their vehicles. I do not believe alcohol would attack silicone o-rings. I have never seen that problem I have used methanol based fuels in model airplane engines for many years but those engines typically use glow plugs. Glow plugs do not require an ignition system once the engine is running. Internal combustion engines burning methanol are very clean burning. The parts look brand new when the engine is disassembled (as does the oil) as there is no carbon produced. Engines burning propane are much the same. I said not to use alcohol for three reasons... 1. people typically run to the drug store to get rubbing alcohol which burns extremely dirty and makes a bloody mess... 2. methanol (sometimes) is not that easy to get and 3. vodka or straight drinking ethanol is expensive. Denatured alcohol is good. Sometimes people have trouble getting the little engines started with alcohol. I have not had good luck with alcohol in these small model engines. These little engines do not have the hottest spark in the world. I have run some small internal combustion model engines with a glow plug instead of a spark plug and methanol. Obviously you need a battery to get it started. Any residual sugar that may be in drinking ethanol would (or could) certainly cause damage. It is far easier to recommend the Coleman lantern fuel, which starts easily. Beyond experimentation... just get a can of Coleman Fuel and a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and life will be easier. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
Crown(brand) and Coleman stove fuels seem to run the same in my mini engines. They are both crystal clear, smell the same, but the Crown fuel is a bit cheaper than the Coleman in Wally world, anyway. I have read that these fuels are only about 55 octane, but prolly good enough for the CR's this little engines have.
I pumped gas in the 60's here in Iowa and the Conoco station still had a white gas pump. We used it in our Coleman lanterns and cook stoves but the main reason the gas station kept the tank around was to provide fuel for those in the rural community that still cooked with what were called kerosene stoves. Maybe the stoves would burn both white gas and kerosene; I don't know. We didn't sell kerosene anywhere in town in the 60's. The people buying the white gas always just asked for kerosene and knew we would fill their small spouted cans with white gas. To make it even more confusing, it was always mentioned that the lead in regular gas would clog the gas generator in a Colman style lantern or cook stove and white gas didn't have the lead. A decade later they introduced unleaded fuel! People had no idea if it was just a new name for white gas or something different.
I am told the camping lanterns and cook stoves in Europe burn kerosene. I had some comments regarding my reference to Coleman Lantern Fuel (which is not kerosene) and the confusion it caused as they were trying to run their hit & miss engines on kero. That is when I made the "correct fuel" video.
Hi Ronald, I Picked up a ET6 after watching your video review and I love it. I'm using Colman Fuel (White Gas) with a splash of Marvel Mystery Oil and it runs great. My question is: What oil do you use to lubricate all of the moving parts?
Very helpful info on these model engines !! .....Seems some engines arrive Without the black Ignition wire attached to the Metal engine block.....This eventually causes the "Returning" spark High voltage to Arc thru & Damage the magnetic Reed switch & possibly the Ignition Box.....I made Sure my ignition wiring was correctly Block grounded & added 3 6 amp 20 volt Bidirectional polarity TVS diodes, 1 wired Across the Battery box + to -- terminals & Each wire (Except HV sparkplug wire) to engine Block ground to absolutely Protect the Expen$ive ignition Module from stray HV damage...Mine continues to run nearly 3 yrs now....
I'm in the UK and have just purchased some Aspen 2 and can confirm that my ET1 runs better on this than regular retail petrol (gas) and with less black soot from the exhaust.
about automotive gasoline in Europe and the USA: we use different system to determine the octane number. Europe uses RON and the USA uses AKI. 95 RON is about 90 AKI (close enough atleast)
I'm at the end of my tether with this engine. I run mine at engine shows along side my full size Hit And Miss engine but every few months I have to strip it to tighten the flywheels especially the one on the governor side. I tighten the grub screw as tight as I dare (not wanting to strip out the thread) but it never lasts. All of a sudden it will stop running for no reason and when I inspect it I discover the flywheel has come loose AGAIN. I would not mind but this flywheel cannot be re-secured without removing the governor assembly to get to the grub screw. While I agree these engines are well made this is a major flaw in the design which must be corrected by Echine. This will stop me from buying other Echine engines that have this method of securing the flywheel to the crank.
I agree, it is a very sloppy way to fix the flywheels to the crankshaft. Also, on some engines the grub screws go in at an angle, which really make a mess of the crankshaft. I am sure you have noticed the holes for the grub screws were drilled and tapped first, then the steel rim was pressed on. If you are able to do so, you could remove the flywheel(s) and press off the steel rim. Then drill and tap new positions for the grub screws that would then clear the governor mechanism. Hopefully the steel rims could be pressed on again. Otherwise Loctite would be needed to hold the rims firmly in place. Repeated loosening of the flywheels burrs up the ends of the crankshaft and (at least on my ET1) makes it nearly impossible to remove the flywheels. I don’t know if Eachine sells replacement crankshafts. Banggood does not. With a new crankshaft (or, if you are able, machine your own replacement), machine flats matching up to the grub screws. The crankshafts are not very large in diameter but two shallow flats on each end plus the use of a low strength Loctite would solve most of the headaches. The little EM2 Vertical Hit & Miss with Flying Ball Governor is a nice slow running engine that does not jump all over the place. Sorry for your headaches with the ET1 flywheels. Ron
7:44 interesting how you shut it off just before it craps out like mine does.. runs like 20 seconds and shuts off. Its nearly impossible to fill the tank as well as the filler hole is way to small to let the air back out.. Also they do have super great spark.. Good enough to spark right out the plastic on the wire.. grounds to the engine and wont run with it doing that. unfortunately these engines really need some upgrading
No, mine will run as long as you keep fuel in it. There are other videos where I show it running much longer. Generally I don't run it much longer than a few minutes. If the spark plug wire is not against the spark plug, and you have just the wire in your hand, it will jump through the insulation and zap you a good one. And if the wire gets too close to a metal part of the engine it can jump across. The older blue engines were much worse about doing that. Thanks for watching.
Hi Ron, Having a look at the information sheet on your video , it looks quite similar to the Microcosm M18 ... and the same "info" about kerosene ... Do you know if Coleman or Zippo would work for the M18 model ? Thank you ;
I have an engine like yours and use to run nice but after a while no more compression on it, I read that piston rings must be replaced, rings are green rubber orings, I got the replacements on line and replace them, never ran again, Im afraid I fogot to mark the timing, con you help me sending some pictures from your engine to see gear and timing position?
My Hit & Miss ET1 was suffering a reduction in compression so I removed the piston to change the piston rings ('O' rings) and found that despite the piston having two ring grooves the manufacturer had only installed one 'O' ring, can you tell me if this engine has one or two 'O' rings installed??
When this new series of hit & miss engines came out (starting with the ET1) I believe the piston had 2 o-rings installed. Apparently people were complaining the ET1 did not slow down enough. The manufacturer removed one o-ring to slightly reduce the compression which helped slow down the engine a little. So… most of the hit & miss engines in this series (ET1 through ET8) only have one piston o-ring. You can install two o-rings if you prefer and see what difference it makes to how your engine runs. Compression, needle valve setting, fuel used, governor springs will all affect idle speed. Have fun! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks, I've installed just the one 'O' ring. Do you happen to know the spark plug gap and the exhaust valve tappet clearance? my engine is factory set at: spark plug 10 thou and the exhaust valve at 3 thou.
Both are not very critical. The valve rocker mechanism is pretty sloppy, so as long as there is available movement between the tappet and valve stem when the valve is closed, that is about the best you could hope for. Spark plug gap is again not critical as long as it isn't closed up too much... about the thickness of a No.11 Xacto blade (0.02" or 0.5mm).
I have no experience with Brown's Gas. If you are thinking about running your model engine with hydrogen, don't. Model hit and miss engines are often run on butane or propane but an appropriate carburetor would need to be fabricated. And a small model engine like these is not going to be satisfactory as a home generator.
The ET7 is the same as M94 I show how I slowed it down in the following video. You may be able to slow down other engines in a similar manor. I suggest you get your engine at EngineDIY and I have a discount coupon code in the description for this video. Eachine ET7 Hit & Miss - Slowing It Down ua-cam.com/video/qTt-4Q_XoQM/v-deo.html
How are you lubricating the mains and big end? I have one as well, and see no obvious way to do it other than dribble some oil on the sides and hope a little makes into the actual bearing.
Watch my video on the ET1. I don’t show it in every video but basically you need to dribble a little oil on anything that turns, slides, wiggles or moves. The upper and lower ends of the connecting rod are bushings and need a little oil every run. The crankshaft runs or ball bearings so no point it oiling that area. They are a little messy and need cleaning quite often. Eachine ET1 Upgraded Hit & Miss Engine ua-cam.com/video/ZCrjj4niyto/v-deo.html Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
very light, non oil-based fuels. gotcha. I heard in many kit hit miss engines, piston rings could be nitrile or viton, def not good with any alcohol based or spirit fuels, but if you upgrade to iron rings shouldn't be a problem
I just got my ET6. It has been no end of problems. No or weak spark dropping to nothing after just a couple of minutes. I will try just 2 batteries. Fuel has been a point of contention. I have had the longest run on pure 4 stroke gas with no alcohol out of the expensive quart from my local tractor supply house. When it quits, I switch to pure alcohol and repeat the same run time (with the allowance of about 30 per cent more fuel than gas) just to stop again after a couple minutes. I will try Coleman fuel from my small engine stash. It was also strange that only 1 ring was in place from the factory even though there are 2 rings provided for on the piston! I will try 2 because I bought spares. I hope I get it right soon, my wife is watching with her evil eye present!
I have a video on the correct fuel. Coleman Fuel is what I use or you can use regular gasoline. These probably will not run well on alcohol and alcohol is not recommended. They are installing only one o-ring on the piston to reduce compression so it will run slower (so I have been told by the manufacturer). If it continues to not run then file a claim with whoever you purchased it from.
@@RonaldWalters2010 I did Coleman fuel with a hint of Marvel oil, installed the second o ring, removed 1 battery, etc. Ignition troubles quit, fuel control problems subsided, and so on. Thanks Ron! The rest of the adjustments are being sorted out now. Super fine adjustments and test before moving on.
All of these carb's need VERY fine needle valve adjustments and after it warms up a bit, it needs adjusting again. Next time you take it apart I would suggest only one piston o-ring. Contrary to what I said in my ET6 video... THERE IS a tiny spring inside the top of the flying-ball governor. Changing the size of that spring can alter the running speed of the engine. I have no idea what size the spring is or a source for replacements (other than making your own) as I have not had mine apart.
Myself and several others, experienced the ignition would (sometimes) quit making a spark on 4.5 VDC (three batteries) but with 3 VDC (two batteries) the problem went away. And since the ignition circuitry is sealed in epoxy, nobody knows what was causing the phenomenon. Ever since I have only used two batteries. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
Look around for something like this: www.ebay.com/itm/202334541056?hash=item2f1c141500:g:EDcAAOSwSCZbOnwA&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4AiGvcAPi1UwsenLDwqn0GiccBZqALJWr4VR51iy2QNcxVhIDMTbyKVDXYdKfa614zEzghnZ%2B75e3yvzofuh7SznKRyqjfM0zmMoCL%2BaDxyqzahjpHPAbH296w9%2BG%2FyUKh7zhV5orACcgCuDQ16oJs11fE5g9GVTcUZ%2BUHWD%2Fb3EwZZxT0HBeXkpI0dKfZ85CmKLqObNxS%2BkPvvUueaiHZ4wCM3DfKuIZJensofHq%2FgXIbp6RuE4ASdegDwkYIefirOdoNBwFDmOUB7NOWTxn%2FmCTai5iziUR18rjCZvznul%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8jp-bueYw Or a syringe with a dispensing needle (the needle does not have a sharpened point) although the rubber in the syringe does not hold up to the fuel very well... so a glass syringe it better suited (but breakable)
The ignition system for some of the earlier engines would quit working after the engine had run for a while. It was discovered that the problem would go away if two batteries were used instead of three batteries. I am using standard AA alkaline batteries which have a nominal voltage of 1.5 volts DC when they are new. The voltage decreases as the batteries are used. The following video describes various things to look out for when trying to run these model engines as well as the correct fuel to use. Correct Fuel For 4 Cycle Hit & Miss And Other Model Engines ua-cam.com/video/n1zOC2C-iy0/v-deo.html The following video shows two different ways to make a dummy battery. Dummy Battery For Hit & Miss Engines ua-cam.com/video/6Ij7uvw_LwE/v-deo.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
First of all, a small lawn mower engine if probably 500 times larger than one of these model engines. So I assume you mean engines of the same size or displacement. A Hit & Miss engine is probably not a good choice for a generator. I see them as better suited to intermittent load like a cement mixer, farm auger or a well pump (such as an oil well pump jack). A lawn mower engine has a governor, but usually it is a fan resistance governor controlled by air coming from the cooling fan. An engine similar to that on a lawn mower (Briggs & Stratton, Honda) is what you will usually find on small home generators and the better gensets will probably have some form of electronic speed control to maintain engine speed/output voltage under varying load. Not sure if I answered your question. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Some what answered, for example if i had a 4 large batterys and the hit/miss eng doing a light load charge vs having a lawnmower eng doing the same which would be more effecient? how low RPM can this eng idle ? with some pulley reduction i wonder what can be done as a stredy current gererator.....
I would go with a small B&S or Honda engine. These model engines really are not intended, nor are they suited for, actual work or long runs. They are a model or toy... but could certainly be used in a model boat or something where they have short runs. I have a video showing tachometers being used to measure typical idle speed of one of these (ET6) engines. Handheld Tachometer - Laser & Contact - Review & Demo ua-cam.com/video/kPUrsFO38W0/v-deo.html
Do a search on UA-cam for weed eater generator. There are many videos on this where people have used 2 cycle engines from old weed eaters and used automotive alternators or DC motors for generators. Make a throttle control to hold a steady motor speed to regulate the output voltage you want.
That is what that is for... a water tank for cooling. Usually only about 2/3 full so it doesn't splash out with the engine running. I have a playlist with a number of different engines reviewed and demonstrated. Thanks for watching.
Hit & Miss Engines (in the real world) were quite popular years ago for water well and oil well pumps, mortar mixers, concrete buggies, rural washing machines and many other applications. These are models of those engines. Some people like the sound of them and just enjoy running them. They can also be fashioned to run various models, displays, etc. A vertical version of this engine is used in the following radio controlled boat (this is quite a large boat). ua-cam.com/video/szQgrP9IqXU/v-deo.html
Yes, put water in the cooling tank. No oil to change but you do need to oil the upper ad lower ends of the connecting rod and the crankshaft. Watch my review videos and you will see the various points that need oiling before each run. Thanks for watching.
hi, are the failed original ign systems the reason for going 2 battery? et6 ran about 60 seconds total out of box w 3 batt.. just shut itself off and the ign system seems ded.. or did i jus draw short straw this time? lol sigh
Back with the original blue hit & miss engine and the ET1, it was noted they would sometimes quit running when three AA batteries were installed (4.5VDC). Using a dummy battery or by some other method reducing the battery supply from 4.5VDC to 3VDC solved the problem. Consequently I have just made it a habit to use only 2 batteries. The dummy battery has worked on most of the engines, however there have been a couple engines recently which would not run with only two batteries installed and required all three batteries to fire. Please keep that in mind for any future engines. When the engines would quit with three batteries, after removing the one battery the engine would then run again… the ignition module did not need to be replaced. I have heard reports from several people who have had ignition modules fail. With the modules sealed in epoxy you can’t see what is going on in there. The ground can easily come loose. Adding a washer under the ground wire so you aren’t tightening against the wood makes a better connection. A bubble in the fuel line will also stop the engine. Pull the wire and check the spark. If you just received the engine and if you purchased it from Banggood and if all else fails, report the problem and ask for a new ignition module or to replace the entire engine. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks for the reply.. ill be contacting them.. the ign unit does not have this epoxy as ive seen in other photos... it appears to be a plastic side with vent holes thats glued in place .. maybe an older version? The brass is a bit tarnished .. maybe its been sitting or someone else's return.
I have a Chinese mini hit and miss coming soon. I'm just wondering what is the point of the marvel mystery oil in the fuel? Everyone says to do it but I've never seen the reason? I'm guessing for the piston o "rings" ? Beyond the orings I see no point in the marvel mystery oil. Please school me
No oil and the o-ring piston rings won't last very long. You could use other oil... but... it takes very little Marvel Mystery Oil and it does not carbon up the piston, spark plug, combustion chamber. I have a video on the "Correct Fuel" ua-cam.com/video/TvLziWCI7Oo/v-deo.html
@@RonaldWalters2010 perfect. Thank you very much. I've seen that video but didn't pay attention if you said it was for the rings. If it did something on the top end or valves I wss going to run caster is the main reason I asked. Thank you for the quick reply
@@RonaldWalters2010 I was going to use the ethonal free fuel from home depot I run maxima caster 927 in all my 2 strokes that was the main reason I was going to use it if it lubed anything more than the rings. But just keeping the orings slippery I'm just going to mix a small quantity of marvel mystery oil like you said.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Castor oil was and still is used for full sized rotary aircraft engines. The reason it slimes up model airplanes as well as full sized WW1 airplanes is because it doesn't burn in the engine! You won't get carbon fouling from something your not burning.
@@RonaldWalters2010 most likely....No spark in a small air gap between the ign wire and plug. tried 2 batteries as you said...and 3 as you did not. They do make a good paperweight....tho a bit expensive.
I have never purchased one. As I said in the video, I made mine on a 3D Printer. You can search eBay for "AA DUMMY BATTERY" but they are a bit expensive and usually sold in multiple lots or 4 to 10 pieces. You may be better off searching for "AA Battery Pack 2 Cell 3 Volt" and replacing the existing 3 cell holder. www.ebay.com/itm/AA-Battery-Pack-2-Cell-3-Volt/152820447452?hash=item2394cef8dc:g:VPMAAOSw401aKuR~ Hope that helps. Please subscribe! Ron
I love the engine BUT I tried the two battery deal. That thing won''t make any appreciable spark to ground. New batteries. Alkalines. Next step change back to 3 cells, If that doesn't work I will check out HV coil. Finally an email to the person I bought it from. Note: The end of the plug wire came without a clip on it. Wire just cut off flush. cutting some insulation off of the wire to show some wire to the plug doesn't work either. Anyone else have this problem?
There is no clip on the end of the spark plug wire on any of these engines. You just push the blunt end of the wire against the end of the spark plug. If you have spark, then that will be good enough. You say no "appreciable spark" to ground... so I guess you are getting some spark? Darken the room and check for spark again. Sometimes you can hear it before you can see it. Double check all three batteries are installed in the correct direction (polarity). Check there is no corrosion or rust in the battery holder or on any of the electrical connections. Check the ground connection to engine, which is on one of the engine mounting bolts. Check all of the other connections and check continuity with a volt ohm meter. Check the battery holder connections and the switch connections. Check connections for the Hall Effect sensor and that the magnet is in place. If the Hall Effect sensor isn't triggered by the magnet there will be no spark. Make sure 'ON" at the switch is actually ON. Good Luck! Thanks for watching! Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
hve you tried to run this engine on alkylate gasoline,normal gasoline contains ethanol and is probably not the best fuel for small engines. i think alkylate fuel burns a bit cleaner than many other fuels and one can buy it in one litre containers that can be stored for years.
It will run much faster with the original springs. To slow it down you need the install weaker springs. I show that in a few videos. Thanks for watching, Ron
"Octane rating" is calculated differently in the US & Canada than it is in the rest of the world. The US octane rating is ~8-12 points lower for the same gas. So, the 95 rating in the instructions might be the equivalent of 87 (Regular) in the US. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
Ah ! This video would have saved me a great deal of frustration !
Great info !
Everybody, including those who have a notion about hit and miss engines, should see this before ordering/starting their engine!
Paddy
We have had great success using 87 pump gas and Amzoil two stroke oil, 150:1 . Amzoil will lubricate the o-ring and cylinder and valves but won't harm the spark plug. The key is to dump out the unused fuel once you are done running the engine. My advice on starting issues. If the intake valve is not opening, that could be the reason it's not starting. The opposite can be true, once flooded if the fuel is not shut off the engine will not start. If flooded the engine can be turned over until the exhaust valve is open. Once open, let the engine sit for a few minutes to allow the gas to evaporate from the cylinder.
A lot of information covered here.
Good straightforward video.
For viewers in the Australian region who can't get Coleman fuel anymore, the local equivalent is Shellite (100% naphtha) and is sold in the paint department of most hardware stores for a fraction of the price of Coleman fuel. The Kerzel HM1 hit & miss engine (a build from plans model) is the original design by David Kerzel of Florida that these Chinese toy manufacturers ripped off. The Kerzel design has a drip lubricator for cylinder lubrication and does not need oil added to the fuel. My Kerzel HM1 runs best on 95 octane premium petrol and will run on naphtha but with less power due to the lower octane rating. I use a Viton O ring for the piston ring and it is still running on the same ring from 18 months ago. Viton O rings are rated for 205C temperature and are highly resistant to petrol and naphtha, but not methanol or acetone.
Husqvarna 2 stroke premix is 95 octane and contains 50:1 high quality oil. No additives or ethenol. Works great for me.
I will run this on propane. But, not for long as it has no lubrication for the piston and cylinder. It relies on lube from gasoline, diesel or kerosene mix, only after it gets hot (running temp.) This was not built for long running times. After it gets hot, I think you can slow the rpm down a bit by leaning the fuel out. I will see. This is some of the best machine work that I have ever seen. 👍👍👍 Looks like a Fairbanks-Morse 503 or 739. All that is missing is a condenser on top the water hopper. Thank you for reading my short novel!! 😬😬😬
Thank you for your excellent review ; I will try one of these some day ...
This horizontal model seems to be the easiest to get running ...
I added the lighter springs to both my vertical and horizontal engines. Alot of difference was made on the vertical. The horizontal however not so much. I believe it has to much compression as when it fires it really gets it spinning. I had read that the vertical has much less compression.
The vertical and horizontal are essentially the same engine. Last year I was told they started placing only one o-ring on the pistons to lower the compression. If your horizontal is an older one, it may still have two o-rings on the piston. You've been wanting to pull the head off anyway. :-) May want some spare o-rings before opening it up, just in case. Personally, I have not opened mine up (if it ain't broke don't fix it). Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
I have a question. But 1st I want to thank you for your awesome videos. Your posts are my go-to as I enter this hobby. I have also looked at many others. Most say that Ethanol Alcohol cannot be used to power these engines. I did some research and found some conflicting reports… “Pure alcohol will rott silicone O-ring pistons, plastic carb parts etc’… others say it will not. I found an interesting article about ethanol mixed with engine lubricants and how they perform in replace of petrol. Anyone can research more of the article by googling the title “Lubrication behavior in ethanol fueled engines” . The article stated that pure ethanol did not contribute any additional friction within the engine even though it thinned out the lubricant. It also stated that there was no varnishing and there was zero sludge compared to sludge left by petrol. I decided to try pure alcohol 97% food grade in my ET1. It works GREAT. Can you tell me why you stated that the engine will not run on alcohol?
There is more than one type of alcohol. Many people don't know the difference or it may be called different things in different countries (different languages).
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol sold in drug stores 70% and 91%) is very dirty burning
Methyl (methanol, wood alcohol) clean burning... used in model airplane fuel and race cars
Ethyl alcohol (ethanol - the drinking variety) distilled and undistilled
Denatured alcohol (ethanol with additives added to make it poisonous) you don't pay alcohol tax on this stuff
When the so-called oxygenated fuels or gasohol first came out they were basically shoved down everyones throat with insufficient prior planning. Places like Denver Colorado first mandated this stuff seasonally since the addition or alcohol added more oxygen to the combustion resulting in less carbon monoxide (smog) in the winter months. Older cars on the road did not react well to the alcohol, which attacked rubber (o-rings, fuel lines) aluminum and some nylon/plastics. The general public was not expecting this until it was too late and damage was already done to their vehicles.
I do not believe alcohol would attack silicone o-rings. I have never seen that problem
I have used methanol based fuels in model airplane engines for many years but those engines typically use glow plugs. Glow plugs do not require an ignition system once the engine is running.
Internal combustion engines burning methanol are very clean burning. The parts look brand new when the engine is disassembled (as does the oil) as there is no carbon produced. Engines burning propane are much the same.
I said not to use alcohol for three reasons... 1. people typically run to the drug store to get rubbing alcohol which burns extremely dirty and makes a bloody mess... 2. methanol (sometimes) is not that easy to get and 3. vodka or straight drinking ethanol is expensive. Denatured alcohol is good.
Sometimes people have trouble getting the little engines started with alcohol.
I have not had good luck with alcohol in these small model engines.
These little engines do not have the hottest spark in the world.
I have run some small internal combustion model engines with a glow plug instead of a spark plug and methanol. Obviously you need a battery to get it started.
Any residual sugar that may be in drinking ethanol would (or could) certainly cause damage.
It is far easier to recommend the Coleman lantern fuel, which starts easily.
Beyond experimentation... just get a can of Coleman Fuel and a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and life will be easier.
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Ron
I live in the USA and have a pump up lantern that uses kerosene. So you could find these types here at one time. I don’t know if you can now.
Crown(brand) and Coleman stove fuels seem to run the same in my mini engines. They are both crystal clear, smell the same, but the Crown fuel is a bit cheaper than the Coleman in Wally world, anyway. I have read that these fuels are only about 55 octane, but prolly good enough for the CR's this little engines have.
Very good information.
Thanks for the comment!
Ron
I pumped gas in the 60's here in Iowa and the Conoco station still had a white gas pump. We used it in our Coleman lanterns and cook stoves but the main reason the gas station kept the tank around was to provide fuel for those in the rural community that still cooked with what were called kerosene stoves. Maybe the stoves would burn both white gas and kerosene; I don't know. We didn't sell kerosene anywhere in town in the 60's. The people buying the white gas always just asked for kerosene and knew we would fill their small spouted cans with white gas.
To make it even more confusing, it was always mentioned that the lead in regular gas would clog the gas generator in a Colman style lantern or cook stove and white gas didn't have the lead. A decade later they introduced unleaded fuel! People had no idea if it was just a new name for white gas or something different.
I am told the camping lanterns and cook stoves in Europe burn kerosene. I had some comments regarding my reference to Coleman Lantern Fuel (which is not kerosene) and the confusion it caused as they were trying to run their hit & miss engines on kero. That is when I made the "correct fuel" video.
Hi Ronald, I Picked up a ET6 after watching your video review and I love it. I'm using Colman Fuel (White Gas) with a splash of Marvel Mystery Oil and it runs great. My question is: What oil do you use to lubricate all of the moving parts?
I use 3-In-One or Singer Sewing Machine oil... a light oil... and it needs to be done frequently.
Very helpful info on these model engines !! .....Seems some engines arrive Without the black Ignition wire attached to the Metal engine block.....This eventually causes the "Returning" spark High voltage to Arc thru & Damage the magnetic Reed switch & possibly the Ignition Box.....I made Sure my ignition wiring was correctly Block grounded & added 3 6 amp 20 volt Bidirectional polarity TVS diodes, 1 wired Across the Battery box + to -- terminals & Each wire (Except HV sparkplug wire) to engine Block ground to absolutely Protect the Expen$ive ignition Module from stray HV damage...Mine continues to run nearly 3 yrs now....
In Europe Aspen 2 is an alkylate petrol much cheaper than Coleman fuel premixed at 50:1. It works perfectly in this engine.
I'm in the UK and have just purchased some Aspen 2 and can confirm that my ET1 runs better on this than regular retail petrol (gas) and with less black soot from the exhaust.
Interesting and well presented, thanks from Orlando
about automotive gasoline in Europe and the USA: we use different system to determine the octane number. Europe uses RON and the USA uses AKI. 95 RON is about 90 AKI (close enough atleast)
I'm at the end of my tether with this engine. I run mine at engine shows along side my full size Hit And Miss engine but every few months I have to strip it to tighten the flywheels especially the one on the governor side. I tighten the grub screw as tight as I dare (not wanting to strip out the thread) but it never lasts. All of a sudden it will stop running for no reason and when I inspect it I discover the flywheel has come loose AGAIN. I would not mind but this flywheel cannot be re-secured without removing the governor assembly to get to the grub screw. While I agree these engines are well made this is a major flaw in the design which must be corrected by Echine. This will stop me from buying other Echine engines that have this method of securing the flywheel to the crank.
I agree, it is a very sloppy way to fix the flywheels to the crankshaft. Also, on some engines the grub screws go in at an angle, which really make a mess of the crankshaft.
I am sure you have noticed the holes for the grub screws were drilled and tapped first, then the steel rim was pressed on. If you are able to do so, you could remove the flywheel(s) and press off the steel rim. Then drill and tap new positions for the grub screws that would then clear the governor mechanism. Hopefully the steel rims could be pressed on again. Otherwise Loctite would be needed to hold the rims firmly in place.
Repeated loosening of the flywheels burrs up the ends of the crankshaft and (at least on my ET1) makes it nearly impossible to remove the flywheels. I don’t know if Eachine sells replacement crankshafts. Banggood does not. With a new crankshaft (or, if you are able, machine your own replacement), machine flats matching up to the grub screws. The crankshafts are not very large in diameter but two shallow flats on each end plus the use of a low strength Loctite would solve most of the headaches.
The little EM2 Vertical Hit & Miss with Flying Ball Governor is a nice slow running engine that does not jump all over the place.
Sorry for your headaches with the ET1 flywheels.
Ron
7:44 interesting how you shut it off just before it craps out like mine does.. runs like 20 seconds and shuts off. Its nearly impossible to fill the tank as well as the filler hole is way to small to let the air back out.. Also they do have super great spark.. Good enough to spark right out the plastic on the wire.. grounds to the engine and wont run with it doing that. unfortunately these engines really need some upgrading
No, mine will run as long as you keep fuel in it. There are other videos where I show it running much longer. Generally I don't run it much longer than a few minutes. If the spark plug wire is not against the spark plug, and you have just the wire in your hand, it will jump through the insulation and zap you a good one. And if the wire gets too close to a metal part of the engine it can jump across. The older blue engines were much worse about doing that. Thanks for watching.
@@RonaldWalters2010 i think they need to upgrade their plug wire
Keep the ignition wire off the block. May need to add insulation. ⚡️⚡️👍👍👍
Very informative. Thanks for posting.
Hi Ron,
Having a look at the information sheet on your video , it looks quite similar to the Microcosm M18 ...
and the same "info" about kerosene ...
Do you know if Coleman or Zippo would work for the M18 model ?
Thank you ;
Coleman and Zippo are essentially the same thing. Both need a little oil in them just as shown in this video. Thanks for watching.
I have an engine like yours and use to run nice but after a while no more compression on it, I read that piston rings must be replaced, rings are green rubber orings, I got the replacements on line and replace them, never ran again, Im afraid I fogot to mark the timing, con you help me sending some pictures from your engine to see gear and timing position?
My Hit & Miss ET1 was suffering a reduction in compression so I removed the piston to change the piston rings ('O' rings) and found that despite the piston having two ring grooves the manufacturer had only installed one 'O' ring, can you tell me if this engine has one or two 'O' rings installed??
When this new series of hit & miss engines came out (starting with the ET1) I believe the piston had 2 o-rings installed. Apparently people were complaining the ET1 did not slow down enough. The manufacturer removed one o-ring to slightly reduce the compression which helped slow down the engine a little. So… most of the hit & miss engines in this series (ET1 through ET8) only have one piston o-ring. You can install two o-rings if you prefer and see what difference it makes to how your engine runs. Compression, needle valve setting, fuel used, governor springs will all affect idle speed. Have fun! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks, I've installed just the one 'O' ring. Do you happen to know the spark plug gap and the exhaust valve tappet clearance? my engine is factory set at: spark plug 10 thou and the exhaust valve at 3 thou.
Both are not very critical. The valve rocker mechanism is pretty sloppy, so as long as there is available movement between the tappet and valve stem when the valve is closed, that is about the best you could hope for. Spark plug gap is again not critical as long as it isn't closed up too much... about the thickness of a No.11 Xacto blade (0.02" or 0.5mm).
Wondering if Brown's gas would work in a hit and miss engine to power a home generator with fuel made at home. Your thoughts or experience?
I have no experience with Brown's Gas.
If you are thinking about running your model engine with hydrogen, don't.
Model hit and miss engines are often run on butane or propane but an appropriate carburetor would need to be fabricated.
And a small model engine like these is not going to be satisfactory as a home generator.
Can you have it move a lot slower? Was thinking of hooking it up to a pump jack
The ET7 is the same as M94
I show how I slowed it down in the following video.
You may be able to slow down other engines in a similar manor.
I suggest you get your engine at EngineDIY and I have a discount coupon code in the description for this video.
Eachine ET7 Hit & Miss - Slowing It Down
ua-cam.com/video/qTt-4Q_XoQM/v-deo.html
How are you lubricating the mains and big end? I have one as well, and see no obvious way to do it other than dribble some oil on the sides and hope a little makes into the actual bearing.
Watch my video on the ET1. I don’t show it in every video but basically you need to dribble a little oil on anything that turns, slides, wiggles or moves. The upper and lower ends of the connecting rod are bushings and need a little oil every run. The crankshaft runs or ball bearings so no point it oiling that area. They are a little messy and need cleaning quite often.
Eachine ET1 Upgraded Hit & Miss Engine
ua-cam.com/video/ZCrjj4niyto/v-deo.html
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very light, non oil-based fuels. gotcha.
I heard in many kit hit miss engines, piston rings could be nitrile or viton, def not good with any alcohol based or spirit fuels, but if you upgrade to iron rings shouldn't be a problem
The piston o-rings in these engines are the green high-temperature type and they last for quite a while.
I just got my ET6. It has been no end of problems. No or weak spark dropping to nothing after just a couple of minutes. I will try just 2 batteries.
Fuel has been a point of contention. I have had the longest run on pure 4 stroke gas with no alcohol out of the expensive quart from my local tractor supply house. When it quits, I switch to pure alcohol and repeat the same run time (with the allowance of about 30 per cent more fuel than gas) just to stop again after a couple minutes. I will try Coleman fuel from my small engine stash.
It was also strange that only 1 ring was in place from the factory even though there are 2 rings provided for on the piston! I will try 2 because I bought spares.
I hope I get it right soon, my wife is watching with her evil eye present!
I have a video on the correct fuel. Coleman Fuel is what I use or you can use regular gasoline. These probably will not run well on alcohol and alcohol is not recommended.
They are installing only one o-ring on the piston to reduce compression so it will run slower (so I have been told by the manufacturer).
If it continues to not run then file a claim with whoever you purchased it from.
@@RonaldWalters2010 I did Coleman fuel with a hint of Marvel oil, installed the second o ring, removed 1 battery, etc. Ignition troubles quit, fuel control problems subsided, and so on. Thanks Ron!
The rest of the adjustments are being sorted out now. Super fine adjustments and test before moving on.
All of these carb's need VERY fine needle valve adjustments and after it warms up a bit, it needs adjusting again. Next time you take it apart I would suggest only one piston o-ring. Contrary to what I said in my ET6 video... THERE IS a tiny spring inside the top of the flying-ball governor. Changing the size of that spring can alter the running speed of the engine. I have no idea what size the spring is or a source for replacements (other than making your own) as I have not had mine apart.
I do love that sound
What would we use that for? Or is it just decoration?
A working model of an old type engine. Some use them in R/C boats or to drive static displays. Or just to enjoy listening to them run.
Nice little engine, i think i have to buy it.
Hi Ronald, Just curious why you only want to run it on two batteries. Saving batteries or will it just run better? Thanks
Myself and several others, experienced the ignition would (sometimes) quit making a spark on 4.5 VDC (three batteries) but with 3 VDC (two batteries) the problem went away. And since the ignition circuitry is sealed in epoxy, nobody knows what was causing the phenomenon. Ever since I have only used two batteries.
Thanks for watching.
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Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 The description of the enfine says voltage 3.5V so maybe just one LiPo-cell?
@@RonaldWalters2010 thick fingers - I mean engine
Hey Ronald, how did you fill the tank? What did you use?
Look around for something like this:
www.ebay.com/itm/202334541056?hash=item2f1c141500:g:EDcAAOSwSCZbOnwA&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4AiGvcAPi1UwsenLDwqn0GiccBZqALJWr4VR51iy2QNcxVhIDMTbyKVDXYdKfa614zEzghnZ%2B75e3yvzofuh7SznKRyqjfM0zmMoCL%2BaDxyqzahjpHPAbH296w9%2BG%2FyUKh7zhV5orACcgCuDQ16oJs11fE5g9GVTcUZ%2BUHWD%2Fb3EwZZxT0HBeXkpI0dKfZ85CmKLqObNxS%2BkPvvUueaiHZ4wCM3DfKuIZJensofHq%2FgXIbp6RuE4ASdegDwkYIefirOdoNBwFDmOUB7NOWTxn%2FmCTai5iziUR18rjCZvznul%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8jp-bueYw
Or a syringe with a dispensing needle (the needle does not have a sharpened point) although the rubber in the syringe does not hold up to the fuel very well... so a glass syringe it better suited (but breakable)
Did you use AA batteries for this or is it a special battery
The ignition system for some of the earlier engines would quit working after the engine had run for a while. It was discovered that the problem would go away if two batteries were used instead of three batteries. I am using standard AA alkaline batteries which have a nominal voltage of 1.5 volts DC when they are new. The voltage decreases as the batteries are used.
The following video describes various things to look out for when trying to run these model engines as well as the correct fuel to use.
Correct Fuel For 4 Cycle Hit & Miss And Other Model Engines
ua-cam.com/video/n1zOC2C-iy0/v-deo.html
The following video shows two different ways to make a dummy battery.
Dummy Battery For Hit & Miss Engines
ua-cam.com/video/6Ij7uvw_LwE/v-deo.html
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Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it.
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QUESTION! : How much better would one of these Be on a Generator vs a lawnmower eng ??? thx
First of all, a small lawn mower engine if probably 500 times larger than one of these model engines. So I assume you mean engines of the same size or displacement.
A Hit & Miss engine is probably not a good choice for a generator. I see them as better suited to intermittent load like a cement mixer, farm auger or a well pump (such as an oil well pump jack).
A lawn mower engine has a governor, but usually it is a fan resistance governor controlled by air coming from the cooling fan.
An engine similar to that on a lawn mower (Briggs & Stratton, Honda) is what you will usually find on small home generators and the better gensets will probably have some form of electronic speed control to maintain engine speed/output voltage under varying load.
Not sure if I answered your question.
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@@RonaldWalters2010 Some what answered, for example if i had a 4 large batterys and the hit/miss eng doing a light load charge vs having a lawnmower eng doing the same which would be more effecient? how low RPM can this eng idle ? with some pulley reduction i wonder what can be done as a stredy current gererator.....
I would go with a small B&S or Honda engine.
These model engines really are not intended, nor are they suited for, actual work or long runs. They are a model or toy... but could certainly be used in a model boat or something where they have short runs.
I have a video showing tachometers being used to measure typical idle speed of one of these (ET6) engines.
Handheld Tachometer - Laser & Contact - Review & Demo
ua-cam.com/video/kPUrsFO38W0/v-deo.html
Do a search on UA-cam for weed eater generator. There are many videos on this where people have used 2 cycle engines from old weed eaters and used automotive alternators or DC motors for generators. Make a throttle control to hold a steady motor speed to regulate the output voltage you want.
I am wondering if it is advisable to run this engine with water in the top open chamber?
That is what that is for... a water tank for cooling. Usually only about 2/3 full so it doesn't splash out with the engine running.
I have a playlist with a number of different engines reviewed and demonstrated.
Thanks for watching.
yes it is
What would be the primary reason for the use of one of these engines? (I just stumbled upon this video after watching you disemble the Laughing Box)
Hit & Miss Engines (in the real world) were quite popular years ago for water well and oil well pumps, mortar mixers, concrete buggies, rural washing machines and many other applications. These are models of those engines. Some people like the sound of them and just enjoy running them. They can also be fashioned to run various models, displays, etc. A vertical version of this engine is used in the following radio controlled boat (this is quite a large boat).
ua-cam.com/video/szQgrP9IqXU/v-deo.html
Ronald Walters ...thank you, Ronald Walters! They Do sound cool.
Basically for fun only. 👍👍👍 And it is!!
Do you need to add water in the hopper for normal operation? There no oil to change right? :D
Yes, put water in the cooling tank. No oil to change but you do need to oil the upper ad lower ends of the connecting rod and the crankshaft. Watch my review videos and you will see the various points that need oiling before each run. Thanks for watching.
3Recharge batts would give 3.6v and keep ignition happy?
Worth a try.
hi, are the failed original ign systems the reason for going 2 battery? et6 ran about 60 seconds total out of box w 3 batt.. just shut itself off and the ign system seems ded.. or did i jus draw short straw this time? lol
sigh
Back with the original blue hit & miss engine and the ET1, it was noted they would sometimes quit running when three AA batteries were installed (4.5VDC). Using a dummy battery or by some other method reducing the battery supply from 4.5VDC to 3VDC solved the problem. Consequently I have just made it a habit to use only 2 batteries. The dummy battery has worked on most of the engines, however there have been a couple engines recently which would not run with only two batteries installed and required all three batteries to fire. Please keep that in mind for any future engines.
When the engines would quit with three batteries, after removing the one battery the engine would then run again… the ignition module did not need to be replaced.
I have heard reports from several people who have had ignition modules fail. With the modules sealed in epoxy you can’t see what is going on in there.
The ground can easily come loose. Adding a washer under the ground wire so you aren’t tightening against the wood makes a better connection.
A bubble in the fuel line will also stop the engine. Pull the wire and check the spark.
If you just received the engine and if you purchased it from Banggood and if all else fails, report the problem and ask for a new ignition module or to replace the entire engine.
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@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks for the reply.. ill be contacting them.. the ign unit does not have this epoxy as ive seen in other photos... it appears to be a plastic side with vent holes thats glued in place .. maybe an older version? The brass is a bit tarnished .. maybe its been sitting or someone else's return.
mine runs fine on 99% ethanol though I don't know if it can cause problems
I have a Chinese mini hit and miss coming soon. I'm just wondering what is the point of the marvel mystery oil in the fuel? Everyone says to do it but I've never seen the reason? I'm guessing for the piston o "rings" ? Beyond the orings I see no point in the marvel mystery oil. Please school me
No oil and the o-ring piston rings won't last very long.
You could use other oil... but... it takes very little Marvel Mystery Oil and it does not carbon up the piston, spark plug, combustion chamber.
I have a video on the "Correct Fuel" ua-cam.com/video/TvLziWCI7Oo/v-deo.html
@@RonaldWalters2010 perfect. Thank you very much. I've seen that video but didn't pay attention if you said it was for the rings. If it did something on the top end or valves I wss going to run caster is the main reason I asked. Thank you for the quick reply
Castor oil is usually used in Methanol for R/C engines. These hit & miss do not run on methanol. Use gasoline of Coleman camping fuel.
@@RonaldWalters2010 I was going to use the ethonal free fuel from home depot I run maxima caster 927 in all my 2 strokes that was the main reason I was going to use it if it lubed anything more than the rings. But just keeping the orings slippery I'm just going to mix a small quantity of marvel mystery oil like you said.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Castor oil was and still is used for full sized rotary aircraft engines. The reason it slimes up model airplanes as well as full sized WW1 airplanes is because it doesn't burn in the engine! You won't get carbon fouling from something your not burning.
Both my engines came WITHOUT ON/OFF switch.
Guess you should have bought them using one of my links. :-)
@@RonaldWalters2010 most likely....No spark in a small air gap between the ign wire and plug. tried 2 batteries as you said...and 3 as you did not. They do make a good paperweight....tho a bit expensive.
U r right. 95 octane is standard in Europe
Kerosene or gasoline?
Sir, where can you purchase the dummy batteries
I have never purchased one. As I said in the video, I made mine on a 3D Printer. You can search eBay for "AA DUMMY BATTERY" but they are a bit expensive and usually sold in multiple lots or 4 to 10 pieces. You may be better off searching for "AA Battery Pack 2 Cell 3 Volt" and replacing the existing 3 cell holder. www.ebay.com/itm/AA-Battery-Pack-2-Cell-3-Volt/152820447452?hash=item2394cef8dc:g:VPMAAOSw401aKuR~
Hope that helps. Please subscribe! Ron
Thank you. I appreciate it. Have an good day!
Im considering one of these and thanks to you i understand the govonor concept more and im getting one for sure.
Very good. Links and discount codes can be located in the video description(s). Thanks for watching. Ron
I love the engine BUT I tried the two battery deal. That thing won''t make any appreciable spark to ground. New batteries. Alkalines. Next step change back to 3 cells, If that doesn't work I will check out HV coil. Finally an email to the person I bought it from. Note: The end of the plug wire came without a clip on it. Wire just cut off flush. cutting some insulation off of the wire to show some wire to the plug doesn't work either.
Anyone else have this problem?
There is no clip on the end of the spark plug wire on any of these engines. You just push the blunt end of the wire against the end of the spark plug. If you have spark, then that will be good enough.
You say no "appreciable spark" to ground... so I guess you are getting some spark? Darken the room and check for spark again. Sometimes you can hear it before you can see it.
Double check all three batteries are installed in the correct direction (polarity).
Check there is no corrosion or rust in the battery holder or on any of the electrical connections.
Check the ground connection to engine, which is on one of the engine mounting bolts.
Check all of the other connections and check continuity with a volt ohm meter.
Check the battery holder connections and the switch connections.
Check connections for the Hall Effect sensor and that the magnet is in place. If the Hall Effect sensor isn't triggered by the magnet there will be no spark.
Make sure 'ON" at the switch is actually ON.
Good Luck!
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Ron
hve you tried to run this engine on alkylate gasoline,normal gasoline contains ethanol and is probably not the best fuel for small engines.
i think alkylate fuel burns a bit cleaner than many other fuels and one can buy it in one litre containers that can be stored for years.
Sorry, I am not familiar with alkylate fuel. I did a brief search but did not see an octane rating. Try it, see if it works.
Has anyone drilled the main bearing caps to oil the mains.
The crankshaft runs on needle bearings (not bushings) so the oil wouldn't get to them anyway. Some do it for the "looks" but it is a waste of time.
@@RonaldWalters2010 thank you so much . I'm ordering one this week.
I hope you will use the links and discount codes found in my video descriptions whenever you purchase an engine. It can save you money. Ron
Mine still has the original springs and it runs much faster.
It will run much faster with the original springs.
To slow it down you need the install weaker springs. I show that in a few videos.
Thanks for watching,
Ron
I use 3 1.2v rechargeable batteries
Noticed mine runs much cooler using 90# gasoline than naphtha, no difference running I can tell
Will run on Butane
I have not tried it... but if you know how to adapt it to the carburetor, I don't see why it wouldn't.
BP call it britolite
vodka?
"Octane rating" is calculated differently in the US & Canada than it is in the rest of the world. The US octane rating is ~8-12 points lower for the same gas. So, the 95 rating in the instructions might be the equivalent of 87 (Regular) in the US. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating