I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up. Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
I think this video is a good help in simple terms... Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709. What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white. very helpful.
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅 It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
one of my favourite channels on UA-cam! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
This video was needed I started my sports channel and bought the Sony a7iv tried shooting at low light with ISO 350 and the footage came out soo grainy I couldn't even fix it in post, now I just film at Auto as I'm too scared to mess it all up again. I did manage to get decent quality shooting at iso 450 and you definitely get more flexibility with colour grading shooting at that settings, I will keep experimenting until I get it right, thanks for the video and keep up the great content. 💥
I kinda do something similar for exposure. I use the histogram & adjust until it isn't clipping or stacking to the right while leaving the zebra at 100. Haven't had issues but will try this out
This was very clear and detailed. In most situations I like to use false color just because it allows me to see different exposure values at once. I also tend to follow the Sony recommended values for skin tones with cacausian skin topping out at 52 or 53% especially for interview/talking head settings. I find 70 to be too high in most situations. Great video overall! 👍 👍
Thank you for the detailed explanation. As a beginner, I've been having trouble with my footage. After setting up the custom zebras, do you set your metering mode to multi or spot? Also, do you use the same method in run-and-gun situations?
Thank you so much for sharing all this information. I have been searching for a great step by step tutorial for setting for S - log 3 - and this was fantastic. Do I definitely need to download those luts from sony website? Or can I still successfully edit well in post production without that? I also have the SOny A7C2, and this was so helpful. I am looking forward to checking out more of your videos on your channel. Thank you again.
Hey Tiffany - good to hear that this was helpful for you. I think that using the free Sony official conversion LUTs installed in the camera and then applying that same LUT in post is the smoothest in my experience, but there are a lot of paths to get to the same destination. Whatever produces the most consistent results is what it is all about and that is the path that works for me. All the best!
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Great video. Now, what is the best way to expose for SLOG3 in a run and gun? Sacrifices must be made. Do you set the auto exposure to +1.7 and use Aperture priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual with Auto ISO? Nobody seems to want to touch that subject. I guess everyone is metering for every single shot, even when they're filming on family vacation, or they're just using S-Cinetone?
Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
@@ac3arcadia Based on some testing, if you can't use Sean's methods, +1.7 is your best bet. The thing is, the zebras you set for your skin tones depend on how dark your skin is. Even the gray cards you buy can vary, if you use them. I got one that was glossy, so you would get different results depending on the angle of the lighting so in reality, nothing is perfect.
Thanks for this. Great explanation. I've watched a number of videos and this is one of the best on this topic. Are you applying the LUTS to an adjustment layer(s) or directly to the clip?
Hi. Thanks Sean for the video. But i wish you show an outdoor example outside the studio, like the mountain shot that you have in the beginning, where your subject with skintone is small/far. How do you set zebra level for that kind of footage or it is still using the same method? Appreciate if you could help here. Thanks. 🙏🏽
Awesome video. I love the way you explain things clearly. Question: I don’t often shoot skin tones as I film alot of nature scenes. So i am running into alot of high dynamic range or “contrasty” scenes. Would it be easy enough to set my zebras to 94 and expose most scenes to just avoid clipping bright clouds/sun? I am using an A6700 with Slog3, Log Shooting enabled and a Gamut LUT for my preview. I am not embedding my LUTs to retain flexability in post.
Great video but have two questions for studio talking head shoots: 1. Would holding a WB card in front of your talent’s face and zebra exposing to bright white 85 work rather than second guessing skin tone colour? 2. Under controlled studio lighting are there still advantages to film in s-log3 rather than s-cinetone?
@@seandewispelaere you give me more confidence shooting in LOG. I always go back n forth between no picture profile and Slog-3 and now I have more confidence to shoot all my productions in LOG
Great video man!! Loved it!! Quick question, what should the zebra level be if i’m shooting outside with the sun behind my subject? would i still be focusing on the skin tone of my subject or just focus on the sun for the zebra levels? Thank You!!
Thank you so much for the video and the tips on zebra levels for S-Log3! 😍 I have a question I’ve been struggling with: I use a Sony a6700 and an FX30 (same APS-C sensor), and I often find it difficult to balance skin tones without clipping the highlights, especially the sky. This is particularly challenging for me when shooting run-and-gun style. Do you have any tips for handling this? Should I consider upgrading to a full-frame sensor for better dynamic range? I hear people say that you can achieve great results with any camera, but when I’m editing and see the sky blown out with barely any detail on the subject’s face, I wonder if it’s an issue with my technique or if I’m hitting the limits of the sensor. Any advice would be really appreciated!
Quick note on the overexposing method: using ISO in camera isn’t technically changing your exposure. This won’t increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. Raising ISO in digital cameras is considered a post process and isn’t much different than lifting the exposure slider in your editing software of choice. Sony cameras do tend to look better if you actually overexpose a bit but at the end of the day, finding the right workflow for you is definitely what’s most important and your method looks great!
This video is fantastic and exactly what I was struggling with. Thank you for posting! One question - when attempting to enter the Lower Limit Zebra values, it stops at “50+.” Is there a setting I’m missing to match your zebra values that are below 50?
this is awesome. But my question is this. What should I set my zebras at if I am shooting a wedding with a lot of people with different skin tones. Say the bridal party and groomsmen. Black, Asiah, White etc. How would you set your zebras for group shots like that? Thanks
In a run-n-gun situation, I tend over expose SLog3 by +1.7 using the spot metering (spot on your target subject) in-camera has always worked for me. The Zebras seem like a better option, but if you have to update zebra values using that chart everytime you are changing subjects then it's not efficient for me, also, changing ISO values degrades the picture quality as opposed to sticking to the base ISO (like when using the FX3 with CineEI Slog3) and increasing/decreasing lighting (assuming that you can control the light)
Great video mate! Just wanted to clarify, the two lines above and below the ISO value in LOG are indicating the BASE ISO yes? (according to Chat GPT). In your video you said the opposite so just wondering which one is correct (new to LOG shooting).
You’re filling the void Parker left after selling FTF! Thanks for the info mate. Would you consider the user luts (phantom in my case) accurate enough to expose with? Today was my first day using so I’ll have my answer soon, but would appreciate your take.
Hey Cody, I loved FTF - glad I could help fill any gaps for ya I haven't used Phantom via user LUTs but can confidently say that the Sony LUTs via user LUTs are absolutely good to get exposure. Let me know what you find with the Phantom ones?
@@seandewispelaereso does one apply the imported sony lut and then set exposure in your work flow? Or dial everything in and then turn on the 709 lut after for the "preview look" ? Sry this is a whole new step for myself and really want to learn everything correctly the first time lol great videos man!
The reason people suggest you overexpose SLOG 3 is so that the noise is less noticeable. For example: If I overexpose a video on my a6700 by 2 stops without clipping highlights at iso 800, (adjusting everything else to overexpose), and then bring the exposure down by two stops in the first node in Davinci Resolve. I will have a cleaner image than exposing for the middle. I'm not sure why you had to do all those extra adjustments to get it to look the same. In resolve all I have to do is set up a colour managed workflow and choose my input colour space, then use the hdr wheels to bring the exposure down by however many stops I overexposed.
Hey mate great video and loved the clear arguments on your take for Slog 3, I'm wondering what would you use for a changing of light conditions such as a Nightclub or Night Festival; do you use any semi auto mode with Slog 3 or just opt for other PP completely?
Zebras seem to kick in earlier when using a viewing LUT. But i am new to this. Maybe i missed something? Should i still expose according to the chart when using a LUT?
Great video Sean! Really informative, what would set your Zebra Values when shooting real estate videos? And what’s your take on using phantom luts as the gamma asist?
I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
Dang that was really cool of you to say. Happy to hear that you found it so helpful ✅
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
Great stuff hear Sean! thanks a ton for bringing so much knowledge and clarity to the topic.
Finally, I have found a channel that teaches me how to use my camera correctly. I am very grateful for this. Thank you very much! 🙏👏👍
Glad you found it helpful 🤙
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
Welcome to the channel, really glad you’re here 💯
Exactly what I need. Clear and simple explanation of Zebras because I think is the best camera tool to exposure our footage correctly.
Made my day reading this, glad it landed for you
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
That’s awesome and welcome to the channel
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up.
Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
Thanks for the note and agreed about different values per profile, BUTTTT I'm going to be a very, very tough sell on the histogram for the beginner :)
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Thanks for the note, really appreciate you
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
Love the confidence and pace. As a new buyer to the Sony A line, this is awesome.
Another excellent and well organized video, Sean! This is right up my alley 🤩 For each of your videos I learn something new. Thank you so much!!
Lars!!! Much love to you
Wow, thanks for explaining that in such great detail and thanks for the free exposure guide. YOU ROCK!!
Thanks and it's good to hear that it was helpful
Honestly this video helped me, and just use the same system everytime.
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
Always amazing. Thats Sean. Love the LUTS by the way. its a great buy and thanks for putting in the work. Cheers!
Made my day, thanks for this
Dude! This is an insanly well thought out way to teach this! Sending this to my video friends.
That's awesome!
I think this video is a good help in simple terms...
Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709.
What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white.
very helpful.
THANKS for producing this.
No problem at all
Thanks Sean, excellent resource. You’ve earned my sub 🤙
Awesome and welcome to the channel
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
I like false color a lot, good points here - thanks for sharing
@@seandewispelaere Thanks for the content , great stuff
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅
It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
hi, what's false color?
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
Super well explained, thank you very much for sharing
Thank you 🤙
Hey, bro. This video is detailed and answers all my questions about the topic. It's exactly what I was looking for on UA-cam.
That is great to hear, love that and happy that I was able to help
The simplest way to work with slog footage thanks for making this video MUCH APPRECIATED 🔥
WOW thank you so much bro, really helped. I've been with your channel from the start, you helped me setup my a7IV and not long ago my a6700.
Appreciate you big time, thanks for the note and for being a part of the channel
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
Let me know how this method treats ya (I think you'll be an SLOG3 fan in no-time...)
Thanks for the video! Very informative and kinda easy to understand. It feels like I'm your friend, I like that. :D
Excellent video, very well explained and produced. Thanks
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 It's very easy to follow! Great video. I can't wait until this process! Thank you!
You got this!
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
Excellent, perfect, the best content on s log 3 I ve seen. Thank you
Oh?!?! Love to hear that
one of my favourite channels on UA-cam! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
Thank you, that was cool of you to say. Enjoy the e10 (love that camera)
This was a fantastic video. Very well done. Tremendous value. Bravo.
Nice work Sean, you’re a good teacher, keep it up.
Perfect…..excellent work and I thank you for sharing it ❤
You got it!
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
No gasp needed, 8-bit can look incredible if you nail exposure and white balance which is good practice in general in my opinion
What pp are you using?
Share the lut ❤
Thanks so much for this video! I really appreciate it.
I’m so glad you found the video helpful! Your support means a lot to me.
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Cool - let me know how that goes please
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
My question also. Almost everything I shoot is moving through the environment with the camera on a gimbal.
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
Dude you are an absolute legend! Thank you
Thank you and got your back
Sean I am sharing this vid to my a6700 group. Thanks for putting it another banger!
That is so cool of you, glad you found it valuable
Thank You! Learning so much from you!
Appreciate you, Peter - glad I’ve been able to help 🤙
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
🎉🎉Great info. Clear, simple and to the point. Thanks for sharing 🎉🎉
Thanks for watching - all the best
Such a good video man! I see you rocking that ASRV Hoodie aswell, bro got style!
My man, thank you and I guess it takes one to know one re:ASRV
I knew about zebras roughly but this really helped me understand exposure on my a7CII way more thank you!
This video was needed I started my sports channel and bought the Sony a7iv tried shooting at low light with ISO 350 and the footage came out soo grainy I couldn't even fix it in post, now I just film at Auto as I'm too scared to mess it all up again. I did manage to get decent quality shooting at iso 450 and you definitely get more flexibility with colour grading shooting at that settings, I will keep experimenting until I get it right, thanks for the video and keep up the great content. 💥
I really appreciate your videos thanks for sharing!
No problem - thanks for the note
thanks a lot! I learned new things and follow your videos closely
Awesome tutorial - looking forward to giving this a go. Brilliant channel - subbed!
I kinda do something similar for exposure. I use the histogram & adjust until it isn't clipping or stacking to the right while leaving the zebra at 100. Haven't had issues but will try this out
This was very clear and detailed.
In most situations I like to use false color just because it allows me to see different exposure values at once.
I also tend to follow the Sony recommended values for skin tones with cacausian skin topping out at 52 or 53% especially for interview/talking head settings. I find 70 to be too high in most situations.
Great video overall! 👍 👍
Thank you for the detailed explanation. As a beginner, I've been having trouble with my footage. After setting up the custom zebras, do you set your metering mode to multi or spot? Also, do you use the same method in run-and-gun situations?
Thank you so much for sharing all this information. I have been searching for a great step by step tutorial for setting for S - log 3 - and this was fantastic. Do I definitely need to download those luts from sony website? Or can I still successfully edit well in post production without that? I also have the SOny A7C2, and this was so helpful. I am looking forward to checking out more of your videos on your channel. Thank you again.
Hey Tiffany - good to hear that this was helpful for you. I think that using the free Sony official conversion LUTs installed in the camera and then applying that same LUT in post is the smoothest in my experience, but there are a lot of paths to get to the same destination. Whatever produces the most consistent results is what it is all about and that is the path that works for me. All the best!
@@seandewispelaere Thank you so much for that reply. I will look into downloading those free luts from Sony. I appreciate you ☺️🙏
great effort and great video! thank you
Thanks!
This was really cool of you, Brian, thank you
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Great video. Now, what is the best way to expose for SLOG3 in a run and gun? Sacrifices must be made. Do you set the auto exposure to +1.7 and use Aperture priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual with Auto ISO? Nobody seems to want to touch that subject. I guess everyone is metering for every single shot, even when they're filming on family vacation, or they're just using S-Cinetone?
Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
It‘s still uncertain if you aim with Auto-ISO for +/-0 or +1.7(2.0) exposure compensation. Would love to know what you would recommend.
@@ac3arcadia Based on some testing, if you can't use Sean's methods, +1.7 is your best bet. The thing is, the zebras you set for your skin tones depend on how dark your skin is. Even the gray cards you buy can vary, if you use them. I got one that was glossy, so you would get different results depending on the angle of the lighting so in reality, nothing is perfect.
Great vid thanks for sharing. Perhaps you can comment on how this would work in a low light setting as with slog3 a lot of grain is introduced.
Same exact methods for low light, works like a charm 🤙
Excellent video. Thank you!
Appreciate that and right back at ya
Man this info is gold! Muchas gracias!
Bro, I definitely needed this. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this. Great explanation. I've watched a number of videos and this is one of the best on this topic. Are you applying the LUTS to an adjustment layer(s) or directly to the clip?
Great video! So when you are looking at the monitor with the zebras, is the monitor with zebras showing slog or with the lut applied?
Figure this out?
Thank you for the info keep it comin !!
Will do 💯
Great video! I do a lot of real estate videos, what would you recommend I keep zebra levels at to help keep details in bright windows?
Bravo et Merci!
Hi. Thanks Sean for the video. But i wish you show an outdoor example outside the studio, like the mountain shot that you have in the beginning, where your subject with skintone is small/far. How do you set zebra level for that kind of footage or it is still using the same method? Appreciate if you could help here. Thanks. 🙏🏽
Glad you liked it
Yes, exact same process regardless of scene. It all depends on what you’re trying to expose but the values are the same 🤙
Always banger videos my friend!
Dude thank you much appreciated
Can you do also a Video like this, but for slog 2 on the a7sii, and tell what ist better for the a7sii, slog2 or slog3. Would be very nice
Awesome video. I love the way you explain things clearly. Question: I don’t often shoot skin tones as I film alot of nature scenes. So i am running into alot of high dynamic range or “contrasty” scenes. Would it be easy enough to set my zebras to 94 and expose most scenes to just avoid clipping bright clouds/sun?
I am using an A6700 with Slog3, Log Shooting enabled and a Gamut LUT for my preview. I am not embedding my LUTs to retain flexability in post.
you made it easy to understand, thumbs up
Great video but have two questions for studio talking head shoots: 1. Would holding a WB card in front of your talent’s face and zebra exposing to bright white 85 work rather than second guessing skin tone colour? 2. Under controlled studio lighting are there still advantages to film in s-log3 rather than s-cinetone?
Thank you
1. I'd just expose the skin tone, but they'd both accomplish the same thing
2. I just like S-LOG3, both are great
Awesome - settings also works on ZV-E10 II :)
this is a BANGER! thanks bro
Made my day 💯
@@seandewispelaere you give me more confidence shooting in LOG. I always go back n forth between no picture profile and Slog-3 and now I have more confidence to shoot all my productions in LOG
I’ll eagerly await the firmware upgrade that enables the ‘Log Shooting’ and 'User Managed Luts' capabilities on my A7IV...LOL!
Might be waiting a while :)
no wonder i cant find that setting and google it.. it just simple firmware update. is it new update for a7c ii?
Best video about S-Log3. Some say that S-Log3 has issues in low light (noisy footage). Is that true?
Thanks Sean!
Great video man!! Loved it!! Quick question, what should the zebra level be if i’m shooting outside with the sun behind my subject? would i still be focusing on the skin tone of my subject or just focus on the sun for the zebra levels? Thank You!!
Thanks Master!
You bet!
This is exactly what i need sir thankyou?
You got it!
Thank you so much for the video and the tips on zebra levels for S-Log3! 😍 I have a question I’ve been struggling with: I use a Sony a6700 and an FX30 (same APS-C sensor), and I often find it difficult to balance skin tones without clipping the highlights, especially the sky. This is particularly challenging for me when shooting run-and-gun style.
Do you have any tips for handling this? Should I consider upgrading to a full-frame sensor for better dynamic range? I hear people say that you can achieve great results with any camera, but when I’m editing and see the sky blown out with barely any detail on the subject’s face, I wonder if it’s an issue with my technique or if I’m hitting the limits of the sensor.
Any advice would be really appreciated!
Have you thought of moving over to Davinci Resolve, as they have the best color grading of all the top editors?
Just curious and love your vids man!
Quick note on the overexposing method: using ISO in camera isn’t technically changing your exposure. This won’t increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. Raising ISO in digital cameras is considered a post process and isn’t much different than lifting the exposure slider in your editing software of choice. Sony cameras do tend to look better if you actually overexpose a bit but at the end of the day, finding the right workflow for you is definitely what’s most important and your method looks great!
This video is fantastic and exactly what I was struggling with. Thank you for posting! One question - when attempting to enter the Lower Limit Zebra values, it stops at “50+.” Is there a setting I’m missing to match your zebra values that are below 50?
Thank You!
this is awesome. But my question is this. What should I set my zebras at if I am shooting a wedding with a lot of people with different skin tones. Say the bridal party and groomsmen. Black, Asiah, White etc. How would you set your zebras for group shots like that? Thanks
Best video ever
In a run-n-gun situation, I tend over expose SLog3 by +1.7 using the spot metering (spot on your target subject) in-camera has always worked for me. The Zebras seem like a better option, but if you have to update zebra values using that chart everytime you are changing subjects then it's not efficient for me, also, changing ISO values degrades the picture quality as opposed to sticking to the base ISO (like when using the FX3 with CineEI Slog3) and increasing/decreasing lighting (assuming that you can control the light)
Great video mate! Just wanted to clarify, the two lines above and below the ISO value in LOG are indicating the BASE ISO yes? (according to Chat GPT). In your video you said the opposite so just wondering which one is correct (new to LOG shooting).
They aren’t - they indicate the non-native ISOs and are always the values below the 1st base iso
Nice value in this video!!
You’re filling the void Parker left after selling FTF!
Thanks for the info mate.
Would you consider the user luts (phantom in my case) accurate enough to expose with? Today was my first day using so I’ll have my answer soon, but would appreciate your take.
Hey Cody, I loved FTF - glad I could help fill any gaps for ya
I haven't used Phantom via user LUTs but can confidently say that the Sony LUTs via user LUTs are absolutely good to get exposure. Let me know what you find with the Phantom ones?
@@seandewispelaereso does one apply the imported sony lut and then set exposure in your work flow? Or dial everything in and then turn on the 709 lut after for the "preview look" ? Sry this is a whole new step for myself and really want to learn everything correctly the first time lol great videos man!
The reason people suggest you overexpose SLOG 3 is so that the noise is less noticeable. For example: If I overexpose a video on my a6700 by 2 stops without clipping highlights at iso 800, (adjusting everything else to overexpose), and then bring the exposure down by two stops in the first node in Davinci Resolve. I will have a cleaner image than exposing for the middle.
I'm not sure why you had to do all those extra adjustments to get it to look the same. In resolve all I have to do is set up a colour managed workflow and choose my input colour space, then use the hdr wheels to bring the exposure down by however many stops I overexposed.
Hey mate great video and loved the clear arguments on your take for Slog 3, I'm wondering what would you use for a changing of light conditions such as a Nightclub or Night Festival; do you use any semi auto mode with Slog 3 or just opt for other PP completely?
Premier pro now has an option that automatically converts log to rec 709, super handy!
outstanding video!
Thank you!
Zebras seem to kick in earlier when using a viewing LUT. But i am new to this. Maybe i missed something? Should i still expose according to the chart when using a LUT?
Great video Sean! Really informative, what would set your Zebra Values when shooting real estate videos? And what’s your take on using phantom luts as the gamma asist?