I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
I watched tons of tutorials about Sony SLOG 3 exposure. I always felt like the result was not consistent, sometimes it was great, sometimes it was really noisy. I tried your method and I am impressed by the consistency of my image quality without forgetting that it is quite simple to set up. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! :)
Also a quick comment on the "pulling back the iso one click" if you are using the base iso of 800 and 12800, Sony fx3) and you are utilizing an ND filter you don't have to touch the iso if you use your filter to bring down the zebras. I've learned so much from this video. Thank you!
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
Thanks Sean. This is right up there with the best sLog exposure videos I've seen. I've noticed that on my A74 you can approximate the "Cine EI" technique (which is incorporated into my FX6) by "overexposing" and "underexposing" your sensor to favor the dynamic range of shadows and highlights differently, depending on the direction of exposure compensation. Your sLog info is right down the middle, which is proving to be the perfect place for me to start when determining exposure. Thanks again, and extra gratitude for making the chart available to us!
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up. Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
Great video. So much out there on this topic that makes this overly complicated and verbose. You hit all the points (camera setup, theory, application in the premiere) and sparing us the fluff.
I've been so intimidated to shoot SLog due to it never looking good in post (I had no clue what to do). But you breaking it down like that changed the game for me. Thank you!
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
Bro! You got my back! My S log footage is looking nice now that I'm using the zebra's with your settings. Just ordered some soft lights and next is a Nd filter, Thanks a lot
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅 It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
I must admit your video is incredible, it is so easy to follow and i was religiously following it to set up my new Sony FX30, until @7:00 because the log shooting option wasn't showing up on my menu.............anyways thanks for your help
one of my favourite channels on UA-cam! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
I think this video is a good help in simple terms... Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709. What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white. very helpful.
I have the same question. I noticed that the zebras overlay changes depending on the preview LUT applied. For instance, some areas show no zebras when the S-Log3 LUT is active, but when I switch to a conversion LUT (e.g., Rec.709 (800%)), zebras appear on those same areas. Is this behavior normal? Is there a way to have zebras calculated directly from the S-Log3 footage, regardless of the LUT overlay? This would make it possible to base zebras on the recorded S-Log3 footage while still displaying Rec.709 footage with a custom style LUT, without affecting the zebra display.
Crazy video!!!! How well have you explained it man! Love it. Will complete watching most of your channel videos by tomorrow. Cheers, You've got a new fan!❤
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
Great video! Regarding the meter involving the "whole screen", couldn't you use spot metering instead of Full Screen Average or Matrix metering? For photos, I use spot metering + focus point link to identify exposure (usually to see if a specific spot is clipped). That would allow you to identify the exposure of a specific spot just like zebras.
Zebras seem to kick in earlier when using a viewing LUT. But i am new to this. Maybe i missed something? Should i still expose according to the chart when using a LUT?
Great video man!! Loved it!! Quick question, what should the zebra level be if i’m shooting outside with the sun behind my subject? would i still be focusing on the skin tone of my subject or just focus on the sun for the zebra levels? Thank You!!
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
this is awesome. But my question is this. What should I set my zebras at if I am shooting a wedding with a lot of people with different skin tones. Say the bridal party and groomsmen. Black, Asiah, White etc. How would you set your zebras for group shots like that? Thanks
Great video Sean! Question, on my sony fx3 the PP option is greyed so there is no way to selecte slog3 or any PP option. Any thougs on that? Thanks in advance.
Thank you and yea a few things. If it has log shooting turned on, PP will be grayed out. Also, if it is in auto mode, PP will also likely be grayed out 🤙
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
@@Menosfilms thanks for the response man! it was one of the last things I needed to figure out b4 trying all this for the first time lol, really appreciate it had me stumped (new to this game)
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Hi. Thanks Sean for the video. But i wish you show an outdoor example outside the studio, like the mountain shot that you have in the beginning, where your subject with skintone is small/far. How do you set zebra level for that kind of footage or it is still using the same method? Appreciate if you could help here. Thanks. 🙏🏽
A great video, thank you. You asked for some comments so here goes. 1) I want to deliver to HDR, seems crazy to downscale to Rec.709, and have the right equipment, how can I get a LUT for that for the SLog 3 setting? Is it not available due to camera screen not being HDR capable? 2) Try low light using HLG 3 and in general, the ease of use and delivery is light years easier. Your thoughts on this would be great. An excellent methodology. I’d love to see you do a run and gun setup and process, best Profile and exposure settings and techniques. Lastly, going back to my dislike of downscaling to Rec.709, I’m surprised at the slow take-up of HDR given the following: a) UA-cam and Vimeo have really upgraded their ability to detect the user device capabilities to display HDR or only Rec.709 b) Most phones, iPads, tablets, TV’s can now display HDR c) Editing in HDR is now possible using similar devices All of the above said, am I missing something, probably. Brilliant work by you, thank you.
Thank you , I'm glad you liked it. Appreciate the notes/questions as well. A few thoughts: - I don't have a ton of experience with HDR so I won't have a lot to say here, but it sounds like you have a really strong base - Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
@@seandewispelaere thanks for taking the time out to reply, I would never expect one because there are so many comments and I’m assuming you do have a life outside of UA-cam. Keep them coming mate.
This is the best SLog3 explanation I have ever heard. Literal game changer.
I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
Dang that was really cool of you to say. Happy to hear that you found it so helpful ✅
I watched tons of tutorials about Sony SLOG 3 exposure. I always felt like the result was not consistent, sometimes it was great, sometimes it was really noisy.
I tried your method and I am impressed by the consistency of my image quality without forgetting that it is quite simple to set up. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! :)
Thank You! Learning so much from you!
Appreciate you, Peter - glad I’ve been able to help 🤙
Also a quick comment on the "pulling back the iso one click" if you are using the base iso of 800 and 12800, Sony fx3) and you are utilizing an ND filter you don't have to touch the iso if you use your filter to bring down the zebras. I've learned so much from this video. Thank you!
Thanks
Thank you for this 💯
This is way better than the “just expose to the right” concept. Zebras is fool proof. You are the man 👏
Made my day, Matt - thank you, and glad I was able to help you
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
Thanks!
Thank you for this, means a lot
Thanks Sean. This is right up there with the best sLog exposure videos I've seen. I've noticed that on my A74 you can approximate the "Cine EI" technique (which is incorporated into my FX6) by "overexposing" and "underexposing" your sensor to favor the dynamic range of shadows and highlights differently, depending on the direction of exposure compensation. Your sLog info is right down the middle, which is proving to be the perfect place for me to start when determining exposure. Thanks again, and extra gratitude for making the chart available to us!
You got it and this is such valuable info, thank you for sharing - awesome to hear
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
That’s awesome and welcome to the channel
Thank you! I use this as a refresher all the time.
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up.
Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
Thanks for the note and agreed about different values per profile, BUTTTT I'm going to be a very, very tough sell on the histogram for the beginner :)
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
Very helpful, inspiring and much appreciated.
Very detailed and well explained video man. Helped me out a ton 👊🏾
Great video. So much out there on this topic that makes this overly complicated and verbose. You hit all the points (camera setup, theory, application in the premiere) and sparing us the fluff.
You're the absolute best instructor on this topic. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Love you bro !
I've been so intimidated to shoot SLog due to it never looking good in post (I had no clue what to do). But you breaking it down like that changed the game for me. Thank you!
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
Welcome to the channel, really glad you’re here 💯
Can't be done more clear! Thanks a lot for such nice piece of information!!
Ahhh thank you so dang much
Thank you for the info keep it comin !!
Will do 💯
Bro! You got my back! My S log footage is looking nice now that I'm using the zebra's with your settings. Just ordered some soft lights and next is a Nd filter, Thanks a lot
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
My question also. Almost everything I shoot is moving through the environment with the camera on a gimbal.
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
Wow, thanks for explaining that in such great detail and thanks for the free exposure guide. YOU ROCK!!
Thanks and it's good to hear that it was helpful
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Thanks for the note, really appreciate you
Needed this! TY
This video it's just amazing! Thank you!
Love the confidence and pace. As a new buyer to the Sony A line, this is awesome.
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
I like false color a lot, good points here - thanks for sharing
@@seandewispelaere Thanks for the content , great stuff
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅
It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
hi, what's false color?
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
I must admit your video is incredible, it is so easy to follow and i was religiously following it to set up my new Sony FX30, until @7:00 because the log shooting option wasn't showing up on my menu.............anyways thanks for your help
one of my favourite channels on UA-cam! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
Thank you, that was cool of you to say. Enjoy the e10 (love that camera)
Oh wow! Thanks a bunch for this clear explanation! I'm inspired now and not intimidated by S-LOG3 anymore!
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
Dude! This is an insanly well thought out way to teach this! Sending this to my video friends.
That's awesome!
bro thank you for explaining this is the best video ive seen thus far
Exactly what I need. Clear and simple explanation of Zebras because I think is the best camera tool to exposure our footage correctly.
Made my day reading this, glad it landed for you
Always amazing. Thats Sean. Love the LUTS by the way. its a great buy and thanks for putting in the work. Cheers!
Made my day, thanks for this
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
The absolute best, detailed, and easy to understanding SLOG3 video I've ever seen. Thanks so much!
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
THANKS for producing this.
No problem at all
Just gave this a shot using log instead of the picture profile.
This is very whiz bang, thank you.
You're literally the best man.
Perfect video, exactly what I was looking for while learning Slog3 stuff.
Another excellent and well organized video, Sean! This is right up my alley 🤩 For each of your videos I learn something new. Thank you so much!!
Lars!!! Much love to you
Hey, bro. This video is detailed and answers all my questions about the topic. It's exactly what I was looking for on UA-cam.
That is great to hear, love that and happy that I was able to help
I have one word for you : "You are amazing" sorry that was three, but I guess you deserve more than one 🔥
I think this video is a good help in simple terms...
Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709.
What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white.
very helpful.
You saved me! Everything was looking flat after the the latest a7 update and turns out s-log assist is off by default now. Thank you!
How do you get that 1 click edit of s-log 3, click on what?
You summarized my issues within the first 30 second. Appreciate the content bro!
the best video i've seen on this so far. deeply grateful
thank u for sharing this video, really helpful
Do you use these zebra levels with the LUT applied to the viewfinder or without? Thanks!
My question too. Any answers?
I have the same question. I noticed that the zebras overlay changes depending on the preview LUT applied. For instance, some areas show no zebras when the S-Log3 LUT is active, but when I switch to a conversion LUT (e.g., Rec.709 (800%)), zebras appear on those same areas. Is this behavior normal? Is there a way to have zebras calculated directly from the S-Log3 footage, regardless of the LUT overlay? This would make it possible to base zebras on the recorded S-Log3 footage while still displaying Rec.709 footage with a custom style LUT, without affecting the zebra display.
Crazy video!!!! How well have you explained it man! Love it. Will complete watching most of your channel videos by tomorrow. Cheers, You've got a new fan!❤
Great stuff hear Sean! thanks a ton for bringing so much knowledge and clarity to the topic.
Honestly this video helped me, and just use the same system everytime.
Great video thanks for putting it together. I followed the steps and have these settings in my camera now.
This video is amazingly good... thanks for all the knowledge man! 🙇
Congratulations! You explain the concept brilliantly! And, of course, the colors are very good too… ;)
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
No gasp needed, 8-bit can look incredible if you nail exposure and white balance which is good practice in general in my opinion
What pp are you using?
Share the lut ❤
The best video i found on UA-cam about this. Thanks a lot! Amazing job.
Thanks for the video you’re the man Sean! 🍻
Great video! Regarding the meter involving the "whole screen", couldn't you use spot metering instead of Full Screen Average or Matrix metering? For photos, I use spot metering + focus point link to identify exposure (usually to see if a specific spot is clipped). That would allow you to identify the exposure of a specific spot just like zebras.
Such a good video man! I see you rocking that ASRV Hoodie aswell, bro got style!
My man, thank you and I guess it takes one to know one re:ASRV
Great vid thanks for sharing. Perhaps you can comment on how this would work in a low light setting as with slog3 a lot of grain is introduced.
Same exact methods for low light, works like a charm 🤙
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 It's very easy to follow! Great video. I can't wait until this process! Thank you!
You got this!
Super well explained, thank you very much for sharing
Thank you 🤙
Let’s see that golf swing! 😅 Thanks for this. Needed it
Zebras seem to kick in earlier when using a viewing LUT. But i am new to this. Maybe i missed something? Should i still expose according to the chart when using a LUT?
Thanks for the method and detailed explanation!
Damn! Now i will try slog3 !! Bro thank you soooo much !!!
Excellent, perfect, the best content on s log 3 I ve seen. Thank you
Oh?!?! Love to hear that
Dude you are an absolute legend! Thank you
Thank you and got your back
Great video man!! Loved it!! Quick question, what should the zebra level be if i’m shooting outside with the sun behind my subject? would i still be focusing on the skin tone of my subject or just focus on the sun for the zebra levels? Thank You!!
Thanks Sean, excellent resource. You’ve earned my sub 🤙
Awesome and welcome to the channel
This was a fantastic video. Very well done. Tremendous value. Bravo.
Nice work Sean, you’re a good teacher, keep it up.
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
Awesome tutorial - looking forward to giving this a go. Brilliant channel - subbed!
this is awesome. But my question is this. What should I set my zebras at if I am shooting a wedding with a lot of people with different skin tones. Say the bridal party and groomsmen. Black, Asiah, White etc. How would you set your zebras for group shots like that? Thanks
Same question from my side
Always banger videos my friend!
Dude thank you much appreciated
WOW thank you so much bro, really helped. I've been with your channel from the start, you helped me setup my a7IV and not long ago my a6700.
Appreciate you big time, thanks for the note and for being a part of the channel
Great video Sean! Question, on my sony fx3 the PP option is greyed so there is no way to selecte slog3 or any PP option. Any thougs on that? Thanks in advance.
Thank you and yea a few things. If it has log shooting turned on, PP will be grayed out. Also, if it is in auto mode, PP will also likely be grayed out 🤙
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
Let me know how this method treats ya (I think you'll be an SLOG3 fan in no-time...)
Excellent video, very well explained and produced. Thanks
Using a lut on your monitor helps with exposure also false colors on with your lut applied and bam you get perfect exposures
Boom!
So in/on cam should you dial in exposure before activating the "imported sony lut" for your preview?
@@tictechtone I always have my lut on as I work my settings
@@Menosfilms thanks for the response man! it was one of the last things I needed to figure out b4 trying all this for the first time lol, really appreciate it had me stumped (new to this game)
So for the ZV E10, use slog2?
I would, yes. It's an 8-bit camera so SLOG2 is ideal if you want to use log.
@@seandewispelaere you are the goat...Gracias
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Great video! So when you are looking at the monitor with the zebras, is the monitor with zebras showing slog or with the lut applied?
Figure this out?
What are the preferred method for shooting SLOG3? I dont use custom LUTs. SLOG shooting mode or Picture profile ?
I think I covered this exact thing in the video?
@@seandewispelaere Is there any difference between them?
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Cool - let me know how that goes please
I really appreciate your videos thanks for sharing!
No problem - thanks for the note
Sean I am sharing this vid to my a6700 group. Thanks for putting it another banger!
That is so cool of you, glad you found it valuable
The simplest way to work with slog footage thanks for making this video MUCH APPRECIATED 🔥
Hi. Thanks Sean for the video. But i wish you show an outdoor example outside the studio, like the mountain shot that you have in the beginning, where your subject with skintone is small/far. How do you set zebra level for that kind of footage or it is still using the same method? Appreciate if you could help here. Thanks. 🙏🏽
Glad you liked it
Yes, exact same process regardless of scene. It all depends on what you’re trying to expose but the values are the same 🤙
Thanks so much for this video! I really appreciate it.
I’m so glad you found the video helpful! Your support means a lot to me.
A great video, thank you. You asked for some comments so here goes.
1) I want to deliver to HDR, seems crazy to downscale to Rec.709, and have the right equipment, how can I get a LUT for that for the SLog 3 setting?
Is it not available due to camera screen not being HDR capable?
2) Try low light using HLG 3 and in general, the ease of use and delivery is light years easier.
Your thoughts on this would be great.
An excellent methodology.
I’d love to see you do a run and gun setup and process, best Profile and exposure settings and techniques.
Lastly, going back to my dislike of downscaling to Rec.709, I’m surprised at the slow take-up of HDR given the following:
a) UA-cam and Vimeo have really upgraded their ability to detect the user device capabilities to display HDR or only Rec.709
b) Most phones, iPads, tablets, TV’s can now display HDR
c) Editing in HDR is now possible using similar devices
All of the above said, am I missing something, probably.
Brilliant work by you, thank you.
Thank you , I'm glad you liked it. Appreciate the notes/questions as well.
A few thoughts:
- I don't have a ton of experience with HDR so I won't have a lot to say here, but it sounds like you have a really strong base
- Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
@@seandewispelaere thanks for taking the time out to reply, I would never expect one because there are so many comments and I’m assuming you do have a life outside of UA-cam. Keep them coming mate.
@@Coatsey007 All good and I love connecting with you guys 💯