That's a great tutorial for beginners video. I'm in the process of replacing some facia board on my garage and as the felt edging has deteriorated, I'm going to install eve trays. Your video has given me more confidence to do the work myself. Many thanks and best wishes from Northern Ireland 👍
Well doing mine is enough so I won't be offering to do yours sorry. And if I did it take me about 3 years! Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
Maybe. I believe they went into retirement. Sex drugs, rock and roll was too boring. Building a roof is where the excitement really is! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Crying shame. They are good, not much like them around. Maybe they will come out of retirement for a last hurrah before roofs get too much.
Are you using building control for this project or are you going to try for retrospective planning. Where's your velux top hinged escape window that starts no more than 1100mm from the edge of your roof, you know the one you escape out of of your house is burning down, or are you not required one in Wales? 👍🙂
You don't need one. You have to make a 30minute fire proof escape route to the outside by way of correct plasterboard walls, floor insultation and fire doors on every room that can be accessed from the downstairs hall and landing. Also mains powered smoke alarms on each floor. This is why there are strict rules in stair size, tread depth, handrails etc. An escape window is no good if there's no where safe to go when you get out. Building control don't like the idea of you sat on a roof waiting for the fire service. It's also not easy to rescue you from a sloping roof. It obviously depends on the layout if your house, multiple occupancy etc and different rules for different countries. Hope that clears things up. It's all on the .gov website.
Good info. I was looking for at 6:00 I'm just curious to know how much of the over fascia venta were covered by the upvc capping board nailed to the timber fascia as this is what I'd like to do
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE it just looks like when the vent is screwed to the top of the timber with the back of the vent flush with the back of the timber, that adding a upvc capping board to the face of wood, the top of the upvc woukd block or restrict the vent overhanging the wood
Do you not need additional insect mesh over those fascia vents? As the vent gaps looked large enough that wasps or other insects could climb through?. Only asking as in my new built house they didn’t have a fine enough insect mesh and I ended up with a 5foot x 4foot wasp nest in my house
That's the problem, building regs stipulate a minimum air flow required so you have to have that gap, however it does allow small insects. You can't win!!
Well I don't think we have termites in the UK so should be ok on that front. As for bees and wasps, they're unlikely to fit through the holes, but if they do then I guess you cross that bridge when you get to it! But the void is completely separate to the interior. Thanks for watching.
Hi, I will be using upvc over facia at the end of the project. I used timber as I think it is more solid and helps with structural integrity of the roof. Also I can carry on with the rest of the roof and do the plastic at the end avoiding getting it damaged throughout the project. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Ideally if one is extending rafter tails one should put a birds mouth on them and sit them on the wall plate. Ideally they should be one third the lenght of the original rafters. Not always possible of course, 🔨🇮🇪
As Peter said, just an alternative form of ventilation. I prefer them and they suited what I was doing but there are other ways to do it like soffit vents. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the kind words. I think with a flat roof you fill the whole void with insulation then with osb board or plywood over the top, followed by your chosen roof finish e.g. epdm or fibreglass. Hope that helps.
Building reguations - still need a minimum air gap between felt and insulation to prevent moisture build up. The breathable membrane allows a smaller air gap.
If those purlin strapping members are directly in touch with a flat layer below, there is no drainage on your roof assembly, the purlins should be going down vertically first and than if you want to support a cladding that needs opposite support, you than do the perpendicular purlins ontop of that, similar to a rainscreen wall that needs to accept vertical siding, first layer for rainscreen assembly to support vertical siding is vertical rainscreen than perpendicular horizontal rainscreen.......... Drainage is key in all assemblies. I design performance homes (passive, net zero, etc)
When you say purlin strapping members do you mean the battens? The verticle timbers are rafters, and the purlins are the large horizontal timbers supporting the rafters half way along their span. As for drainage, you leave a sag in the membrane between each rafter which allows any moisture to run down to the eaves. It's standard practice in the UK. What country do you construct in?
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Good to know, yea for me practicing building science into my designs, country isn't the concern and more so the climate. British Columbia Canada has a similar environment to the uk I imagine. My point with purlin systems on a roof is that the first layer of wood used to suppor the cladding of which the roof cladding is fastened to, should drain down the length of the roof so that if water gets in, it easily gets out, leaving a sag in random sections still creates a dam for water to sit there and pool and leak into the building assembly, free almost uninteruppted drainage is always the best is what I was getting at.
@@arayahomes4308 I think you're referring to counter battens. Purlins are a completely different part of the roof if using Uk terminology. The sags are not random, they are between every rafter to prevent pools from forming. When you are matching the roof height of your neighbor's roof, you cant change the design??
Mark Felts they are quite stiff. There’s hardly any movement in the flap going down into gutter. If you want to push the gutter up tight to underside of tray, it’s hard work fixing clips etc
hey mate! amazing vid as usual. is it the same process for a flat roof when it comes to venting. it is better to use those vents or the circular ones that go into the soffit?
I think there are different methods with flat rooves depending on whether there is an upturn into a wall, or if the roof is detached. But I would say soffit vents are likely to be more suitable. You can also buy vents that go on top of the roof. Try Ali Dymock or Oakwood Garden Rooms on youtube. They have a lot of info on flat rooves including warm, cold and hybrid so they'll probably have better advice. If I do a garden room I'll be sure to put on here! Best of luck.
Hi - As Anthony said, 18v makita. 2014 model I think so they are better now, but an excellent tool and to date it has never let me down. Thanks for watching.
descent video bud, but the felt support tray must be sitting on top of the fascia vents, there is a notch at the end for that, if you leave it overhanging like that the wind uplift can mess up the whole eave line, needs to be cut back , thats why you sort out the fascia and eave ventilation be4 you felt and batten the roof, other than that, great chippie work
Problem was I was trying to take the bow out of my facia, line up with my neighbours facia and line my slates up with the neighbours. I take your point but it is all solid and fine. There's less of an overhang down the side of my house. Thanks for watching!
Pouse I love your videos mate but however I regret to inform you that by cutting your rafter feet back by the amount you have it looks like you made a decent size step from your fascia to your neighbours my friend. This going to cause you some issues my friend your eave support tray and slates are most likely going to over hang your gutter too much now. If you use spacers to push the gutter out to the neighbours level it will look ridiculous and a bodge job mate. In my opinion you should go back and extend the feet back to how they was in your stride for perfection you made an issue with next doors and yours fascia and gutter I’m a roofer of nearly 4 years and I’ve beginning to learn that sometimes you just gotta leave something not quite straight etc for it to work and look “right” obviously you know it isn’t straight or what ever but 99.9% of people aren’t gonna notice but they will notice the gutter making a step out from the fascia.
😅 erm kid okay because kids get sent up on roof tops do they? I’m probably twice your age fella dunno why you felt the need to comment what you did when I was only offering pouse my opinion and advise on the issue he probably knows he got or he might not know means never here or there really. I’ve commented on pouses videos before giving advise and tips, he took them on board with open arms too I might. I’m a professional roofer i do the job day in day out so I think it fair to say I’ve very clued up when it comes to roof line. Obviously I don’t know everything I’m still learning everyday so are most people I’m yet to meet anybody that knows everything regarding building and there trade. I do believe pouse is a DIYer or plaster by trade and a bloody good one from the looks of his videos doesn’t mean his not gonna make mistakes along the line here or there his human just like the rest of us. Where was you going with that comment anyway what did you think I’m wrong and there isn’t a step in the fascia from his side to next door neighbours when in his video you can clearly see it or are you just a special stupid or just arrogant mug? Anybody with a bit building knowledge can see what pouse done has caused an issue that needs addressing and carefully thought to over come in which again I’m sure pouse has thought about that but incase he didn’t I thought I’d mention it and give my professional opinion on the matter and what I’ve learn in my nearly 4 years doing the trade.
To all - I haven't created a step. If you look closely I didn't touch the closest rafter to next door, I only took back the middle rafters as they were the ones that had shifted. What you think is a step is actually just a twisted fascia board next door. A few screws will pull it back in line. I explain in the video how the string line is run from next doors last rafter to my opposite end rafters so there is a nice straight line joining into next door. Adding forget I have to add a upvc facia which is 10mm thick. Sorry if video didn't make that clear. Thanks for the comments and ideas and thanks for watching!
Okay then guys that solves that debate 👍🏼😂 Edit Ive gone back and watched the video and can now see in fact the fascia is twisted giving me the illusion of a step out so no issue caused here then I still think you might have small issue with getting the first course of slates to land half way in the gutter properly though but next video will show us more clearly.
Excellent Video of a REAL WORLD job - Thank you so much!
That's a great tutorial for beginners video. I'm in the process of replacing some facia board on my garage and as the felt edging has deteriorated, I'm going to install eve trays.
Your video has given me more confidence to do the work myself.
Many thanks and best wishes from Northern Ireland 👍
Good luck!
Very good and easy to follow installation - thank you !
Really starting to take shape .
It's getting there, and a lot further along in real time. This was last summer.
Looking great Pouse 👍👍👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Wow wonderful work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great job
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Hey Pouse. You should get a bit of barrier cream on those hands. They look RAF on camera!
Real mans hands. You should try using yours occasionally.
Just a thought if you were putting upvc over fascia’s on to the new wooden fascia’s wouldn’t that cover your fascia vents?
I was thinking the same. Even 9mm uPVC facia board will block a proportion of the effective ventilation gap. Won't it?
Very well done, thank you!
Great video and some useful tips, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Bloody good job
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
good work looks like you got long way to go for finishing enjoy the video
Hi Ratch, I'm a lot further on real life, this was last summer, but still not complete! Thanks again for watching.
Another awesome how to video... thanks... I always feel confident in doing my own roof repairs after a visit to your channel.. diolch yn fawr
Thanks for the feedback and best of luck with the repairs!
Ty op lad need mine doing in South Wales
Well doing mine is enough so I won't be offering to do yours sorry. And if I did it take me about 3 years! Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
V.good job.
Do you drum by any chance? Where have the elephant rescue plan gone? Music is ace! Along with your superb videos, keep them coming man!
Maybe. I believe they went into retirement. Sex drugs, rock and roll was too boring. Building a roof is where the excitement really is! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Crying shame. They are good, not much like them around. Maybe they will come out of retirement for a last hurrah before roofs get too much.
As you can see I changed my shirt, so it's another day... Lol
Great work pouse lad. Looking great...........not you......The work lol
Oh...I thought I had my first compliment there! Thanks again for watching.
Maybe I'm being too fussy but do you not 5 star treat all timber cuts? I'm currently diy reroofing and these videos are hugely appreciated, thanks.
This timber was already tanalised so treated throughout, and it got covered with UPVC over fascia in a later video. Thanks for watching.
All cut ends on treated timber should get a coat of protim/creasote, 🔨🇮🇪
What is the band you always play? Is it a live band, if so the drummer is tight!
Band is the elephant rescue plan. Used to be a live band, no longer together.
Are you using building control for this project or are you going to try for retrospective planning. Where's your velux top hinged escape window that starts no more than 1100mm from the edge of your roof, you know the one you escape out of of your house is burning down, or are you not required one in Wales? 👍🙂
You don't need one. You have to make a 30minute fire proof escape route to the outside by way of correct plasterboard walls, floor insultation and fire doors on every room that can be accessed from the downstairs hall and landing. Also mains powered smoke alarms on each floor. This is why there are strict rules in stair size, tread depth, handrails etc. An escape window is no good if there's no where safe to go when you get out. Building control don't like the idea of you sat on a roof waiting for the fire service. It's also not easy to rescue you from a sloping roof. It obviously depends on the layout if your house, multiple occupancy etc and different rules for different countries. Hope that clears things up. It's all on the .gov website.
Good info. I was looking for at 6:00 I'm just curious to know how much of the over fascia venta were covered by the upvc capping board nailed to the timber fascia as this is what I'd like to do
Hi Dan, none is covered, it butts up to the underside of it. Hope that helps. 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE it just looks like when the vent is screwed to the top of the timber with the back of the vent flush with the back of the timber, that adding a upvc capping board to the face of wood, the top of the upvc woukd block or restrict the vent overhanging the wood
Do you not need additional insect mesh over those fascia vents? As the vent gaps looked large enough that wasps or other insects could climb through?. Only asking as in my new built house they didn’t have a fine enough insect mesh and I ended up with a 5foot x 4foot wasp nest in my house
That's the problem, building regs stipulate a minimum air flow required so you have to have that gap, however it does allow small insects. You can't win!!
OK ~ Good Work , Hey What Keeps the Bugs out of those Fascia Vents ? Like Termites - when they Nest Out they Fly . .
Well I don't think we have termites in the UK so should be ok on that front. As for bees and wasps, they're unlikely to fit through the holes, but if they do then I guess you cross that bridge when you get to it! But the void is completely separate to the interior. Thanks for watching.
Hi Pouse, great series. Can I ask is there any particular reason you didn’t use low maintenance upc soffit and facia boards?
Hi, I will be using upvc over facia at the end of the project. I used timber as I think it is more solid and helps with structural integrity of the roof. Also I can carry on with the rest of the roof and do the plastic at the end avoiding getting it damaged throughout the project. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE Thanks for that. It makes sense now, cheers.
Ideally if one is extending rafter tails one should put a birds mouth on them and sit them on the wall plate. Ideally they should be one third the lenght of the original rafters. Not always possible of course, 🔨🇮🇪
Those vents are pretty cool. Do they replace the underside round soffit vents?
Yes they are an acceptable alternative and much neater!
As Peter said, just an alternative form of ventilation. I prefer them and they suited what I was doing but there are other ways to do it like soffit vents. Thanks for watching.
Love your vids, would those vents work for a flat roof 👍🏼
Thanks for the kind words. I think with a flat roof you fill the whole void with insulation then with osb board or plywood over the top, followed by your chosen roof finish e.g. epdm or fibreglass. Hope that helps.
hi , could i ask pls what is the size of cheap treated timber under fascia boards ? thanks
I used a 6x1 but it depends on what size fascia you want. Both uPVC and timber come in a range of sizes suited to your needs. Best of luck with it.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thank you for reply, probably also 220 mm fascia , with T and G soffit ,
why do you need vents when your felt membrane is breathable?
Building reguations - still need a minimum air gap between felt and insulation to prevent moisture build up. The breathable membrane allows a smaller air gap.
If those purlin strapping members are directly in touch with a flat layer below, there is no drainage on your roof assembly, the purlins should be going down vertically first and than if you want to support a cladding that needs opposite support, you than do the perpendicular purlins ontop of that, similar to a rainscreen wall that needs to accept vertical siding, first layer for rainscreen assembly to support vertical siding is vertical rainscreen than perpendicular horizontal rainscreen.......... Drainage is key in all assemblies. I design performance homes (passive, net zero, etc)
When you say purlin strapping members do you mean the battens? The verticle timbers are rafters, and the purlins are the large horizontal timbers supporting the rafters half way along their span. As for drainage, you leave a sag in the membrane between each rafter which allows any moisture to run down to the eaves. It's standard practice in the UK. What country do you construct in?
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Good to know, yea for me practicing building science into my designs, country isn't the concern and more so the climate. British Columbia Canada has a similar environment to the uk I imagine. My point with purlin systems on a roof is that the first layer of wood used to suppor the cladding of which the roof cladding is fastened to, should drain down the length of the roof so that if water gets in, it easily gets out, leaving a sag in random sections still creates a dam for water to sit there and pool and leak into the building assembly, free almost uninteruppted drainage is always the best is what I was getting at.
@@arayahomes4308 I think you're referring to counter battens. Purlins are a completely different part of the roof if using Uk terminology. The sags are not random, they are between every rafter to prevent pools from forming. When you are matching the roof height of your neighbor's roof, you cant change the design??
Is it awkward putting the gutter clips on with the support trays fitted?
@@rsg666 👍👍
VERY
@@justycrusty I was thinking it must be awkward if you needed to repair or renew gutters once its slated with support trays on.
Mark Felts they are quite stiff. There’s hardly any movement in the flap going down into gutter. If you want to push the gutter up tight to underside of tray, it’s hard work fixing clips etc
@@justycrusty 👍👍
hey mate! amazing vid as usual. is it the same process for a flat roof when it comes to venting. it is better to use those vents or the circular ones that go into the soffit?
I think there are different methods with flat rooves depending on whether there is an upturn into a wall, or if the roof is detached. But I would say soffit vents are likely to be more suitable. You can also buy vents that go on top of the roof. Try Ali Dymock or Oakwood Garden Rooms on youtube. They have a lot of info on flat rooves including warm, cold and hybrid so they'll probably have better advice. If I do a garden room I'll be sure to put on here! Best of luck.
oh hi, where did you get the facial vents from?
Just my local builders merchants. They are just called fascia vents. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE doesn't the plastic facial cover the vents When's it's butted up to the vent I've been looking the thinnest facial is 9mm thick?
@@robkettle1971 there's a slight overhang or protrusion on the fascia vent that you butt the uPVC up to, leaving the vent fully exposed.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for the reply
What voltage impact drivers are you using? Thanks
Shirish Patel makita 18V
Hi - As Anthony said, 18v makita. 2014 model I think so they are better now, but an excellent tool and to date it has never let me down. Thanks for watching.
those felt support trays are sticking out far too much.
descent video bud, but the felt support tray must be sitting on top of the fascia vents, there is a notch at the end for that, if you leave it overhanging like that the wind uplift can mess up the whole eave line, needs to be cut back , thats why you sort out the fascia and eave ventilation be4 you felt and batten the roof, other than that, great chippie work
Problem was I was trying to take the bow out of my facia, line up with my neighbours facia and line my slates up with the neighbours. I take your point but it is all solid and fine. There's less of an overhang down the side of my house. Thanks for watching!
Do your cowboy boots have steel toe caps ?
Nobhead
Felt tray 150 overlap minimum !
Pouse I love your videos mate but however I regret to inform you that by cutting your rafter feet back by the amount you have it looks like you made a decent size step from your fascia to your neighbours my friend. This going to cause you some issues my friend your eave support tray and slates are most likely going to over hang your gutter too much now. If you use spacers to push the gutter out to the neighbours level it will look ridiculous and a bodge job mate. In my opinion you should go back and extend the feet back to how they was in your stride for perfection you made an issue with next doors and yours fascia and gutter I’m a roofer of nearly 4 years and I’ve beginning to learn that sometimes you just gotta leave something not quite straight etc for it to work and look “right” obviously you know it isn’t straight or what ever but 99.9% of people aren’t gonna notice but they will notice the gutter making a step out from the fascia.
😅 erm kid okay because kids get sent up on roof tops do they?
I’m probably twice your age fella dunno why you felt the need to comment what you did when I was only offering pouse my opinion and advise on the issue he probably knows he got or he might not know means never here or there really. I’ve commented on pouses videos before giving advise and tips, he took them on board with open arms too I might.
I’m a professional roofer i do the job day in day out so I think it fair to say I’ve very clued up when it comes to roof line. Obviously I don’t know everything I’m still learning everyday so are most people I’m yet to meet anybody that knows everything regarding building and there trade.
I do believe pouse is a DIYer or plaster by trade and a bloody good one from the looks of his videos doesn’t mean his not gonna make mistakes along the line here or there his human just like the rest of us.
Where was you going with that comment anyway what did you think I’m wrong and there isn’t a step in the fascia from his side to next door neighbours when in his video you can clearly see it or are you just a special stupid or just arrogant mug?
Anybody with a bit building knowledge can see what pouse done has caused an issue that needs addressing and carefully thought to over come in which again I’m sure pouse has thought about that but incase he didn’t I thought I’d mention it and give my professional opinion on the matter and what I’ve learn in my nearly 4 years doing the trade.
To all - I haven't created a step. If you look closely I didn't touch the closest rafter to next door, I only took back the middle rafters as they were the ones that had shifted. What you think is a step is actually just a twisted fascia board next door. A few screws will pull it back in line. I explain in the video how the string line is run from next doors last rafter to my opposite end rafters so there is a nice straight line joining into next door. Adding forget I have to add a upvc facia which is 10mm thick. Sorry if video didn't make that clear. Thanks for the comments and ideas and thanks for watching!
Okay then guys that solves that debate 👍🏼😂
Edit
Ive gone back and watched the video and can now see in fact the fascia is twisted giving me the illusion of a step out so no issue caused here then I still think you might have small issue with getting the first course of slates to land half way in the gutter properly though but next video will show us more clearly.
Thank god that's settled nice job pouse