12:44 Mom: "Son, can you fix that railing in the garage I've been asking to fix for months while your back there?" Son: "No, but I can automate your garage door. How does that sound?" Mom:"Whatever, you little nerd."
this pole direction issue is why I swapped to button or tap switches, so that a push is either off or on. Although I realize this is a preference, it is because in the dark I find it frustrating if the pole is opposite of the way I expect. US switches are down for expected OFF and up for expected ON (I realize that it can be different in different countries). As a matter of practicality, I far prefer the use of either voice or smartphone control over stationary, classic pole switches (while realizing that the physical switch is of course necessary when the network is offline or unavailable). Expanding the interoperability of any manual switch just feels like a natural next step, not just for home automation, but general control
If you have rocker switches or, if you have three and four way setups, there is no specific "on" or "off" position anyway. But, like you, I get OCD about the toggles being down for off and up for on. My wife loves to flip the three way set up in our bathroom so that the switch nearest the door is the opposite of this. Just to frustrate me. 😡
Around 15:46 where are you are making a traditional switch into a smart switch that doesn’t actually directly power anything, you kept the red jumper in place. You can keep it in place, or you can leave it out. It doesn’t matter if there is zero load. You are not really using it in dry contact or wet contact mode in that case. You are using it simply as a controller for something else remote. The jumper passes power from the inputs to the relay side of things in wet mode so that loads can be powered. (It kind of surprises me that the wire jumper provided is so small considering the relay can supply up to 10 amps in wet contact mode. It must be rated for 10A @ 120V even if it seems small to me, though.)
Caution when you hooking this relay to supply AC power outlets. The unit is rated 10A for low Inrush Current loads (i.e. incandescent lamp, heater, etc) and 1A for high Inrush Current loads (i.e. multiple LEDs, small motors/pump). It will not support the normal 15A rating of typical outlets. To enable high inrush loads, hook the relay output of this unit to a power relay or contractor coil which contact will support higher Inrush Current. As usual check Amp rating for all components in your circuit to ensure safety.
Can you actually power the relay with a 12v? I have tried and it doesn't work. Lights doesn't come on. I tried with a 240v and worked fine. 12v doesn't work. Can you confirm you actually used 12 and not 24? Would the amperage makes any difference? Can't find anything online.
Hi Brett thanks for the great video Do you always need the aqara hub for all of this to work, or if you have already an apple TV 4K or a homepad it works the same. And second question would be, this connect via zigbee, but i had the understanding that also goes via Wifi, bluetooth and so on, is my understand correct? Thanks
Really like this, but got me thinking - what if instead of powering off or on, my primary want is to monitor power consumption? Have you run across something that could be connected to an outlet to see how much power is being pulled by perhaps a freezer versus a nightstand outlet? Is there a way to bypass the switch element so its not necessarily switchable but just monitors energy consumption? Or have you run across another device that would be better for the energy monitoring?
they have smart plugs that do just that, they also have clamp on smart meters that do that as well. this seems like its perfect for hardwired devices. most freezers are plugged in, so a smart plug that monitors energy usage would make more sense.
Brett, there was mention to the fan light and 'fan'. Is the fan a DC motor fan or an AC? Mentioned in the earlier part of the video was the device works with DC appliances. Is that true with respect to fans?
If this needs to be connected via a hub, does this mean that when the company pulls it's servers or folds in a few years, this unit becomes useless and redundant? Also, I've never heard the phrase wet contact and dry contact. Is it the same as indirect contact and direct contact With regards electricity?
Aqara runs locally, but I experienced issues when remote servers were down and all hubs went to fault mode. Dry contact means it's separated from the input power (galvanically separated). Wet contact means L1 and L2 are powered from source.
Great video! Thank you! The T2 looks impressive, I’m going to use to open and close garage door as an alternative to MYq since they locked down 3rd party access. I used to have an automation set up the would turn on over head light when the MYq sensed the garage door was open. Do you think the T2 can mange that along with opening and closing the garage door? Thank you!
In the video, he is simply using it in dry contact mode as a signal to the garage door opener, not to power the motor. Power is not flowing through it to the motor at all. It is acting similar to a dumb switch on the wall that signals the door opener to activate.
There are different reasons why you would. Mine work great at the light switch because it is easy access and I had a different switch for the fan and light already so it made an easy install. If you only have one light switch you could use it to make the fan and light independent of each other and smart without changing your wiring. Shane Whatley made a great video explaining this process. One more option is if you don't a neutral at your switch it would need to be installed at the fixture where it might have a neutral.
I did not have a contact sensor with it but that can be added. I honestly don't know how it was working so well between the different platforms and still understood when it was opened or closed.
I tried hooking up a wired magnetic contact sensor to display if the garage door was open or closed as shown in the Aqara diagram, but have no idea where it shows the status in the app? If you get a chance, please try hooking up a contact sensor and let me know if you are able to get it working. Thanks @@TechWithBrett
Is there a bug: when you are switching physical switches on and off the relay will kind of sget tuck and then self rebooted after some amount of time like 90 seconds?
Pretty neat. How hard is it to pass the settings to the new owners if you sell the house? Having to undo it all would be a pain and the stuff would be useless to them if left in and they don’t know what’s up with it
This is why I set it up to be used as a physical switch as well. That and my wife likes to do things the old fashioned way at times. Flicking the light switch works, as well as setting it through the app or automation.
Can you use the switch side as separate switches from the load side? Or if a load L1 and switch S1 are connected, they always work together? I could see some cases to separate them and control 4 different things.
In my testing, a button off the S1/COM1 only works with AC power and does not work on 24V DC power. My use case had to have a button on 24V DC so hopefully that is something that works in the future.
I was told it was and I have been trying to figure out the wiring for that. It looks like you just connect all the traveler wires and gold screws together. Look up the wiring for a Zen52 and that should help.
my main issue is the requirement of the "hub". Does it just plug into USB power? if it does then its not an issue (plug in anywhere), if it requires plugged into a computer, then its a no-go for me.
Aqara offers two hubs. Both can be connected via wifi. The M2 can be connected via ethernet as well. I have mine connected via ethernet directly to my router.
If your usb outlet receptacles are much deeper than a standard one like mine are, they are already hard to get in the wall box with the wires behind it. I imagine it would be super tough to fit this sensor in there now too.. You should check if you have room behind it. I just bought one but I plan on installing it above the fan in the ceiling to control my fan.... good luck
Hey there. Any ways to hook it up to the projector? Mine is a BenQ and it is being turned on from standby by one press of a button and turned off back to standby mode by pressing the button twice within short 1 or 2 seconds delay between (to confirm the need to turn it off) anyone done it?
I don't see the point in having the relay behind the switch, Aqara sell an dual switch model and it still works even if the hub or Internet isn't working (unless this isn't for lights, as you're using it with a fan, which it's perfect for) it's interesting I did not know that it could also monitor power, I though only the switch model could do that I actually only came to watch a video to see if you actually mentioned what the button does if it's only used for pairing but you did actually mention pressing the button on the relay unit does actually activate the relay like on nest or hive heater controller I am very new to this company and I've gone full on with this I've got the M2 hub the temperature sensors, the 3 x smart thermostats (testing and I can't use them on my other 4 radiators because the valves under the TRV needs replacing or they bounce when nearly turning off, probably replace 4 radiators while I am at it as other 4 are from when we had a conventional boiler from 20-25 years ago and are only single width) and the relay unit I am in UK so use central heating system and radiators on walls
Nice. I don't like it when a company says that you must use their hub. I use many brands of devices. I have a few aqara devices and most work just fine. I have 3 devices that keep disconnecting from my zigbee hub for no reason. All three device are close to the hub or other zigbee devices that also act as a router. LQI is high. Aqara stopped helping when I would not by and use their hub. All my other Aqara and other brand of zigbee devices work just fine. I use Home Assistant and only use local controlled devices. Just FYI.
For anything that is controlled by a light switch your point is very valid, but for something like a garage door opener that has a remote control that can get lost allowing operation by your phone or Android Auto of Apple Auto could eliminate the need for remote controls.
That was his point when he showed the switches in the up position. It looks like it operates similar to a three way light switch. If you flip your switch it toggles the light whether the switch is up or down and the light is on or off.
So hang on - if the physical switches are on the OFF position, I can still get to control the fan/light via Aqara (ie power still runs through the T2)? Meaning i can use switches or Aqara relays independently from each other ?
Assuming that the circuit is 15amps and the wire sized used was #14 awg you would most likely have a feed in, feed out (ea 14-2) and a 14-3 switch leg going to the fan. So you have to count all of the current carrying wires as one each, all the ground wires are counted as one and each device (switches, wifi module, etc) are given a count of 2 each and a count of 2 for any splices. Current carrying wires = 7, grounds 1, devices = 6, & splices = 2. 7+1+6+2=16. Using #14 wire at a count of 16 you would need a 38 cu in box. Most standard 2 gang boxes are 32 cu in. @@TechWithBrett
Alright … I’ll post the dumb question. I can’t get this thing to power on. I’ve tried three different 12v power supply’s and two different relays. Nothing. Never make it to setup. Now what? I’m attempting the garage door install sitting the door with pliers works fine.
Hey Brittany, sorry to hear of your troubles. That is very odd. Are you able to get the relay to show any power? If not have you tried swapping your line and neutral?
I'm not sure if this is required but one thing I did do was have it plugged into mains power and set it up that way and then changed it to dry contact mode. I know that is a little more difficult to do but might help.
Hey Brett, I'm hoping you can help me. I watched your latest video and I am wondering if this relay might help me. I have 2 switches to my fireplace. One for the ignition and one for the blower. I installed a TV xStream Voice Fireplace Switch Works with Any Smart Plug. (with Power Adapter and 12" Micro USB Cable). This solved my blower switch but not the ignition switch. Could this relay work. I sent you a email with pictures. Thanks, I'll keep watching your videos for more tips for my smart home.
Hey Jason, that is a very interesting question. My brother has something similar that I was wondering about as well. I'll check the email and look more into it.
Actually @ShaneCreates had a great use case for this with a fan/light combo on a single pole light switch. This is the same setup I have in my house and using this relay, he was able to control the light and fan separately using the Aqara rocker switch.
Hardwired devices such as the ones in this video, where its not plugged in but instead its wired. Or in the garage door case, the plug is only for power, opening and closing is done by a seaparate switch.
My brain is not processing why someone would install this on lights or fans lol just get a smart switch and you wouldn’t have to shove that in the 2gang box with the switches
@@TechWithBrett well, g3 matter support is in planned state. I had Sonoff zigbee stick and many devices managed by home assistant in our house in Ukraine. Mostly reliable, but constant power outages was killing network binding. Now I want to try and use different approach with matter support from Alexa and Google screen devices.
This thing is rated for 100-250V, 50/60Hz/Max.10A , your outlet is rated for 15A nominal... Not a good idea to have it inside an outlet and control one😞
It's not the outlet that is the problem it's the CURRENT rating for that IO device your switching. The current carrying conductors (hot and COMMON) should be rated for at least 20 amps. That would mean if you connect ANYTHING that holds a constant current above it's rating you have a high chance of an internal wall fire. NEC code violation city! @@TechWithBrett Leave it up to the Chinese (XIAOMI) in particular to sell this fire hazard.
@@TheTubejunky I'm researching this as I am about to review it myself, and as far as I can tell this is a fair concern, but only really if you installed it behind an electrical socket?... and then you would have to plug in a 3000 watt kettle and boil it, or say 3 PC's each with 850Watt power supplies, at which point you are starting to of course reach the safe limit of the socket itself anyway! I'm basing all this off a UK socket, not sure if it's different in the US, but although this is a valid concern and worth mentioning I'm not sure it's fair to call it a fire hazard in general, you'd have to be doing something pretty specific to set it on fire right??
Mis on Marcus ei ole enam ei saa aru miks see ei tähenda see on ka see on see paprika et see on see paprika on võimalik tutvuda Eesti keele auks tehti väärt on võimalik
It's a type of opener that sends a different code from the button to the opener when you press it. That is why it wouldn't work on his button. The older style is just a regular button that closes the circuit. @@Skrublord54
No good. Misinformation. This controller doesn’t work with 12v. I bought one and cut wire off of it. Will author do something about fixing it in the video?
@@TechWithBrett you definitely can update description of the video at least. was looking for your "About" page. can't see anything. is this to generate more clicks?...
I’m not sure if your video is supposed to be a tutorial or a demo but either way you just fly by zap in zap out of whatever you’re showing and could be the worst demo tutorial video ever.
@@brittanyparker-vaughan2881 I bought a pack of 5 smart light switches from "Treatlife" for $35-40 3 years ago.. so yes you can get a better deal. but with the same features? likely not.
Yup and if he plugs ANYTHING in rated for more current that that CHINESE io wifi switch can handle he gets a FREE HOUSE FIRE! @@brittanyparker-vaughan2881
Cycling your RESIDENTIAL garage door is a BAD IDEA. Those small operators and sometimes the plastic belts are junk and will break not to mention the rapid torque change from LIFTING TO PUSHING your door closed will without a doubt greatly lower the life of your operator!; Lazy tech means unwanted IO hacks.
They do make boxes that are deeper than the standard box, but you need to make sure you have enough room in the wall for the deeper size. Plus, it can be a pain to remove the nail in the old box, unless you have a Oscillating Multi-Tool (every home should have one!).
12:44
Mom: "Son, can you fix that railing in the garage I've been asking to fix for months while your back there?"
Son: "No, but I can automate your garage door. How does that sound?"
Mom:"Whatever, you little nerd."
this pole direction issue is why I swapped to button or tap switches, so that a push is either off or on. Although I realize this is a preference, it is because in the dark I find it frustrating if the pole is opposite of the way I expect. US switches are down for expected OFF and up for expected ON (I realize that it can be different in different countries).
As a matter of practicality, I far prefer the use of either voice or smartphone control over stationary, classic pole switches (while realizing that the physical switch is of course necessary when the network is offline or unavailable). Expanding the interoperability of any manual switch just feels like a natural next step, not just for home automation, but general control
If you have rocker switches or, if you have three and four way setups, there is no specific "on" or "off" position anyway.
But, like you, I get OCD about the toggles being down for off and up for on. My wife loves to flip the three way set up in our bathroom so that the switch nearest the door is the opposite of this. Just to frustrate me. 😡
Hi Brett, what DC power adapter do I need to get to power for a garage door? Little confused which one to get. Any help would be much appreciated.
Around 15:46 where are you are making a traditional switch into a smart switch that doesn’t actually directly power anything, you kept the red jumper in place. You can keep it in place, or you can leave it out. It doesn’t matter if there is zero load. You are not really using it in dry contact or wet contact mode in that case. You are using it simply as a controller for something else remote. The jumper passes power from the inputs to the relay side of things in wet mode so that loads can be powered.
(It kind of surprises me that the wire jumper provided is so small considering the relay can supply up to 10 amps in wet contact mode. It must be rated for 10A @ 120V even if it seems small to me, though.)
I wish you would show an update on how to hook it up with the sensors to the garage door to tell if it’s open or not
So what is the solution for the relay to work with a garage with sensors?
Why not use a smart semsor?
Your US back boxes are MASSIVE. ours in the UK are under an inch in depth usually because our walls are solid.
Do you think this could be used to control Town & Country gas fireplaces?
Caution when you hooking this relay to supply AC power outlets. The unit is rated 10A for low Inrush Current loads (i.e. incandescent lamp, heater, etc) and 1A for high Inrush Current loads (i.e. multiple LEDs, small motors/pump). It will not support the normal 15A rating of typical outlets. To enable high inrush loads, hook the relay output of this unit to a power relay or contractor coil which contact will support higher Inrush Current. As usual check Amp rating for all components in your circuit to ensure safety.
That relay is BIG. Good luck cramming it and the switches back into the box.
I was able to fit it in so it does work. Certainly tight.
@@TechWithBrett that big looked pretty loose
NEC (BOX FILL) code violation HERE HE COMES!
Can you actually power the relay with a 12v? I have tried and it doesn't work. Lights doesn't come on. I tried with a 240v and worked fine. 12v doesn't work. Can you confirm you actually used 12 and not 24? Would the amperage makes any difference? Can't find anything online.
Same question here. Bought 12v dc power supply and cut it’s end. Wasn’t able to make it run whatsoever.
The relay is rated for 100-250VAC,50/60Hz and 24-30VDC. If your AC or DC supply is outside these range, the unit will not work
Hi Brett thanks for the great video
Do you always need the aqara hub for all of this to work, or if you have already an apple TV 4K or a homepad it works the same.
And second question would be, this connect via zigbee, but i had the understanding that also goes via Wifi, bluetooth and so on, is my understand correct?
Thanks
Really like this, but got me thinking - what if instead of powering off or on, my primary want is to monitor power consumption? Have you run across something that could be connected to an outlet to see how much power is being pulled by perhaps a freezer versus a nightstand outlet? Is there a way to bypass the switch element so its not necessarily switchable but just monitors energy consumption? Or have you run across another device that would be better for the energy monitoring?
they have smart plugs that do just that, they also have clamp on smart meters that do that as well. this seems like its perfect for hardwired devices. most freezers are plugged in, so a smart plug that monitors energy usage would make more sense.
Great stuff. Does it recognise triggering scenes on let's say double click on the button switch?
Can you use just any power supply as you did when using it in the garage? Or are there any prerequisites for voltage or other things?
Thanks for shaing , its really helpful. I want to use fingerprint to open the garage . Are there any homekit products can do that?
That is a very interesting idea. I haven't come across anything like that yet.
So it can’t be used on new liftmaster garage door openers right
Oh yes!! Thanks now I know this device support pulse mode. This is what I’m looking for.
What about sensor for closing/opening ? Have you got somethink ?
Brett, there was mention to the fan light and 'fan'. Is the fan a DC motor fan or an AC? Mentioned in the earlier part of the video was the device works with DC appliances. Is that true with respect to fans?
If this needs to be connected via a hub, does this mean that when the company pulls it's servers or folds in a few years, this unit becomes useless and redundant?
Also, I've never heard the phrase wet contact and dry contact. Is it the same as indirect contact and direct contact With regards electricity?
The Aqara devices will run locally. Everything doesn't have to go through their servers.
Aqara runs locally, but I experienced issues when remote servers were down and all hubs went to fault mode.
Dry contact means it's separated from the input power (galvanically separated). Wet contact means L1 and L2 are powered from source.
Cool video. Maybe it's just me but couldn't you turn the switches upside down so up is on and down is off?
This would not work because then if you adjust it from the app it is opposite again.
Great video! Thank you! The T2 looks impressive, I’m going to use to open and close garage door as an alternative to MYq since they locked down 3rd party access. I used to have an automation set up the would turn on over head light when the MYq sensed the garage door was open. Do you think the T2 can mange that along with opening and closing the garage door? Thank you!
Much easier to get the Meross or Tailwind devices. I bought the Meross for $36 on BF and it’s great.
I am wondering does this one work with 3-way switch?
Does it need a capacitor for motor control (like your garage) or is an appropriate one fitted internally?
In the video, he is simply using it in dry contact mode as a signal to the garage door opener, not to power the motor. Power is not flowing through it to the motor at all. It is acting similar to a dumb switch on the wall that signals the door opener to activate.
Weird, my 12v power supply won’t power up the device. What’s the amp on your power supply ?
I have a pool panels inside the house you think I can control the pump on and off with the device
Hi Brett. Thanks for the very informative info. Can you tell me if I can connect the relay to a siren, so that I can use it with a panic button?
So do these remember the last state?
Eg door shut or light off.
Power goes out...
Will they stay that way after power returns?
I must use adapter? Cant connect with engine power wire ?
i saw some other video that they install this relay at the fan instead of wall switch, which work the best?
There are different reasons why you would. Mine work great at the light switch because it is easy access and I had a different switch for the fan and light already so it made an easy install.
If you only have one light switch you could use it to make the fan and light independent of each other and smart without changing your wiring. Shane Whatley made a great video explaining this process.
One more option is if you don't a neutral at your switch it would need to be installed at the fixture where it might have a neutral.
Could I configure my air conditioning with this device?
At 11:35, how does it know garage door is open or closed? Do you also have a contact sensor connected? Great video.
I did not have a contact sensor with it but that can be added. I honestly don't know how it was working so well between the different platforms and still understood when it was opened or closed.
I tried hooking up a wired magnetic contact sensor to display if the garage door was open or closed as shown in the Aqara diagram, but have no idea where it shows the status in the app? If you get a chance, please try hooking up a contact sensor and let me know if you are able to get it working. Thanks @@TechWithBrett
@@TechWithBrett I'm guessing its based on initial state versus "other" state. It always assumes initial state is closed.
How about controlling the fan speed?
Is there a bug: when you are switching physical switches on and off the relay will kind of sget tuck and then self rebooted after some amount of time like 90 seconds?
Interesting, I haven't see this with mine. I know they actually updated the hardware. Did you recently purchase?
Will this work with a fan that has a remote?
Can we change pulse mode without an Aqara hub? :-/
Pretty neat.
How hard is it to pass the settings to the new owners if you sell the house? Having to undo it all would be a pain and the stuff would be useless to them if left in and they don’t know what’s up with it
This is why I set it up to be used as a physical switch as well. That and my wife likes to do things the old fashioned way at times. Flicking the light switch works, as well as setting it through the app or automation.
Does this device definitely work with 12V DC, as the spec (show in the UK) states 24v. cheers
It does not
Can you use the switch side as separate switches from the load side? Or if a load L1 and switch S1 are connected, they always work together? I could see some cases to separate them and control 4 different things.
In my testing, a button off the S1/COM1 only works with AC power and does not work on 24V DC power. My use case had to have a button on 24V DC so hopefully that is something that works in the future.
24VDC works for me but 12VDC as mentioned in the video does not.
Could you make a Keurig coffee machine smart with us?
hi, does this work with 2 way switch?
I was told it was and I have been trying to figure out the wiring for that. It looks like you just connect all the traveler wires and gold screws together. Look up the wiring for a Zen52 and that should help.
Is this device UL Listed?
Garage door, Homekit - can I set garage door to open 50% (slider, automations, Siri)?
I don't believe this is possible because it only allowed for me to turn it on/off. Maybe there is a way but I am not sure.
What /where did you get the power supply for the garage door?
I found it in my dad's box of old power supplies. It just needs to be a 12V DC power supply.
@@TechWithBretttheir manuals and spec sheets all say they need at least 24v. What gives?
my main issue is the requirement of the "hub". Does it just plug into USB power? if it does then its not an issue (plug in anywhere), if it requires plugged into a computer, then its a no-go for me.
Aqara offers two hubs. Both can be connected via wifi. The M2 can be connected via ethernet as well. I have mine connected via ethernet directly to my router.
I would like to use it to replace a relay that controls 2 light points, could it be used by using a button instead of a switch?
Yes in the app there is the option to change it to a button.
If they are bulbed lights, I would figure smart bulbs themselves would be the easier solution.
What device will you make smart with the Aqara T2? amzn.to/3ROWt9j
Does this still work? I tried but don't see a way to enter in the code.
Sorry it has already ended. I'll remove it.
Hi, I’m in UK, so wall sockets are obviously different, but would it work with wall sockets with built in usb ports?
If your usb outlet receptacles are much deeper than a standard one like mine are, they are already hard to get in the wall box with the wires behind it. I imagine it would be super tough to fit this sensor in there now too.. You should check if you have room behind it. I just bought one but I plan on installing it above the fan in the ceiling to control my fan.... good luck
Yes, it would be able to turn the outlet/USB on/off.
What iPad are you using? That would be something nice for the wall.
ipad air
That is the iPad Mini (6th Gen). It is a pretty great little device.
@@TechWithBrett0:46
Hey there. Any ways to hook it up to the projector? Mine is a BenQ and it is being turned on from standby by one press of a button and turned off back to standby mode by pressing the button twice within short 1 or 2 seconds delay between (to confirm the need to turn it off) anyone done it?
brett, what phone is that your using?
I am now using the Pixel Fold.
I don't see the point in having the relay behind the switch, Aqara sell an dual switch model and it still works even if the hub or Internet isn't working (unless this isn't for lights, as you're using it with a fan, which it's perfect for) it's interesting I did not know that it could also monitor power, I though only the switch model could do that
I actually only came to watch a video to see if you actually mentioned what the button does if it's only used for pairing but you did actually mention pressing the button on the relay unit does actually activate the relay like on nest or hive heater controller
I am very new to this company and I've gone full on with this I've got the M2 hub the temperature sensors, the 3 x smart thermostats (testing and I can't use them on my other 4 radiators because the valves under the TRV needs replacing or they bounce when nearly turning off, probably replace 4 radiators while I am at it as other 4 are from when we had a conventional boiler from 20-25 years ago and are only single width) and the relay unit
I am in UK so use central heating system and radiators on walls
This device appears to be 3 times the price of a Shelly device. Have I missed something? Does it also make coffee? Cheers
Nice. I don't like it when a company says that you must use their hub. I use many brands of devices. I have a few aqara devices and most work just fine. I have 3 devices that keep disconnecting from my zigbee hub for no reason. All three device are close to the hub or other zigbee devices that also act as a router. LQI is high. Aqara stopped helping when I would not by and use their hub. All my other Aqara and other brand of zigbee devices work just fine. I use Home Assistant and only use local controlled devices. Just FYI.
I once felt the same way about hubs. But, over time, have found them to have many advantages over wifi connected devices alone.
The pool panels inside the house is low voltage
Why not just install two smart switches. Then you don’t have to worry about someone shutting them off and no power
For anything that is controlled by a light switch your point is very valid, but for something like a garage door opener that has a remote control that can get lost allowing operation by your phone or Android Auto of Apple Auto could eliminate the need for remote controls.
That was his point when he showed the switches in the up position. It looks like it operates similar to a three way light switch. If you flip your switch it toggles the light whether the switch is up or down and the light is on or off.
The switches just provide a trigger input. Power does not route through them. Aeotech had these devices 10 years ago.
So hang on - if the physical switches are on the OFF position, I can still get to control the fan/light via Aqara (ie power still runs through the T2)? Meaning i can use switches or Aqara relays independently from each other ?
Adding that wifi module into the 2 gang wall box violates NEC code for box fill requirements.
Even in the 2 gang box? That is surprising.
Assuming that the circuit is 15amps and the wire sized used was #14 awg you would most likely have a feed in, feed out (ea 14-2) and a 14-3 switch leg going to the fan. So you have to count all of the current carrying wires as one each, all the ground wires are counted as one and each device (switches, wifi module, etc) are given a count of 2 each and a count of 2 for any splices. Current carrying wires = 7, grounds 1, devices = 6, & splices = 2. 7+1+6+2=16. Using #14 wire at a count of 16 you would need a 38 cu in box. Most standard 2 gang boxes are 32 cu in. @@TechWithBrett
Alright … I’ll post the dumb question. I can’t get this thing to power on. I’ve tried three different 12v power supply’s and two different relays. Nothing. Never make it to setup. Now what? I’m attempting the garage door install sitting the door with pliers works fine.
Hey Brittany, sorry to hear of your troubles. That is very odd. Are you able to get the relay to show any power? If not have you tried swapping your line and neutral?
@@TechWithBrett I wish I could say no, but I’ve swapped them every which way and the indicator light never responds. I’m going to try again tonight.
I'm not sure if this is required but one thing I did do was have it plugged into mains power and set it up that way and then changed it to dry contact mode. I know that is a little more difficult to do but might help.
I have sent the last hour to try and get this thing to work on 12 volt. No go. No blue light. Can not recommend at this time.
Or you could use a Tailwind IQ3 to make your opener smart
is there a relay module that you can add into a electrical panel (for the whole home)?
I haven't tried any smart breakers yet but I have seen the entire electrical panel that is a smart panel. It looks like the smart breaker does exist.
yes shelly pro relays. well if you're in Europe anyway (don't replace protective mcb's/rcbos though.
That’s why it has DIN rail mounting configuration. You can put several of these on DIN rail in an electrical panel.
Ok so cool
Hi
Your mom did not look happy lol
Hey Brett, I'm hoping you can help me. I watched your latest video and I am wondering if this relay might help me. I have 2 switches to my fireplace. One for the ignition and one for the blower.
I installed a TV xStream Voice Fireplace Switch Works with Any Smart Plug. (with Power Adapter and 12" Micro USB Cable). This solved my blower switch but not the ignition switch. Could this relay work. I sent you a email with pictures.
Thanks, I'll keep watching your videos for more tips for my smart home.
Hey Jason, that is a very interesting question. My brother has something similar that I was wondering about as well. I'll check the email and look more into it.
Why would someone choose to automate a switch or plug this way rather than installing a smart switch or smart plug?
Actually @ShaneCreates had a great use case for this with a fan/light combo on a single pole light switch. This is the same setup I have in my house and using this relay, he was able to control the light and fan separately using the Aqara rocker switch.
A lot less money than many switched out there, ie, a single Lutron Caseta is $69 while this is half that and can control 2 with the existing switches
a lot less equipment if wiring new circuits is another point
You better look at the current ratings and ask yourself WHY IS IT CHEAPER..... The in wall fire is a free add on. @@josephlabrie5984
Hardwired devices such as the ones in this video, where its not plugged in but instead its wired. Or in the garage door case, the plug is only for power, opening and closing is done by a seaparate switch.
I would’ve liked to see this done on a fireplace.
I had considered doing that but I needed to look more into it.
again how is this significantly better than a shelly relay ?
Ain't better than Shelly. Just an alternative. Thing is Aqara gave him the gear so he's pushing these.
It won’t fit in most switch boxes.
My inner electrician is screaming about how these devices are against electrical code as it relates to box fill percent.
This!
They look a lot larger than shelly.
My brain is not processing why someone would install this on lights or fans lol just get a smart switch and you wouldn’t have to shove that in the 2gang box with the switches
Make a Siri shortcut called shut garage / open garage then you don’t have to say turn on /turn off lol
Great tip!
So basically you can't do it on alll garages
Having the light switches be opposite is not ideal and mentally would drive me nuts and definitely the wife and fam would complain about it
Just flip the switches over.
I figured out you can just quick flip it on and off to get them to look right.
It’s the same thing that happens with a 3-way switch set up, so it’s not so strange if you ask me
No matter?
Yes it has Matter through the Aqara Hub.
@@TechWithBrett what is a current aqara hub? Will g3 camera work?
On the website it says that will work because it has Zigbee 3.0.
@@TechWithBrett well, g3 matter support is in planned state. I had Sonoff zigbee stick and many devices managed by home assistant in our house in Ukraine. Mostly reliable, but constant power outages was killing network binding. Now I want to try and use different approach with matter support from Alexa and Google screen devices.
This thing is rated for 100-250V, 50/60Hz/Max.10A , your outlet is rated for 15A nominal... Not a good idea to have it inside an outlet and control one😞
Hence the comment, "Contact an Electrician." Is that a 10A load it is referring to? Are there even 10A outlets?
It's not the outlet that is the problem it's the CURRENT rating for that IO device your switching. The current carrying conductors (hot and COMMON) should be rated for at least 20 amps. That would mean if you connect ANYTHING that holds a constant current above it's rating you have a high chance of an internal wall fire. NEC code violation city! @@TechWithBrett Leave it up to the Chinese (XIAOMI) in particular to sell this fire hazard.
@@TheTubejunky I'm researching this as I am about to review it myself, and as far as I can tell this is a fair concern, but only really if you installed it behind an electrical socket?... and then you would have to plug in a 3000 watt kettle and boil it, or say 3 PC's each with 850Watt power supplies, at which point you are starting to of course reach the safe limit of the socket itself anyway! I'm basing all this off a UK socket, not sure if it's different in the US, but although this is a valid concern and worth mentioning I'm not sure it's fair to call it a fire hazard in general, you'd have to be doing something pretty specific to set it on fire right??
Mis on Marcus ei ole enam ei saa aru miks see ei tähenda see on ka see on see paprika et see on see paprika on võimalik tutvuda Eesti keele auks tehti väärt on võimalik
If it can only work with the manufacturers app it’s worthless. If it can work with private apps it’s good.
Kind of lame, just use a smart switch for the fan and light, also that won't work on a security + 2.0 garage door.
Security2.0???
It's a type of opener that sends a different code from the button to the opener when you press it. That is why it wouldn't work on his button. The older style is just a regular button that closes the circuit. @@Skrublord54
Rolling codes for Radio controlled devices like garage door openers. @@Skrublord54
Smart plug but not a smart plug
No good. Misinformation. This controller doesn’t work with 12v. I bought one and cut wire off of it. Will author do something about fixing it in the video?
Can't change the video but please read my About page for more details.
@@TechWithBrett you definitely can update description of the video at least. was looking for your "About" page. can't see anything. is this to generate more clicks?...
Light switch usage has got to be the dumbest use case.
proprietary zigbee hubs are total BS,
no idea who would go into such setup or anything that isnt fully HomeAssistant wrangled.
Waste of money. I bought some of these and hooked them up to my employees and the didn’t get any smarter.
I'd buy a bunch if it were Thread
I’m not sure if your video is supposed to be a tutorial or a demo but either way you just fly by zap in zap out of whatever you’re showing and could be the worst demo tutorial video ever.
This seems terrible. Just replace the switch with better tech.
What specifically is terrible? The more options available the better right? Everyone’s requirements aren’t the same..
If you’re on a budget, this is only $35. He was able to make two switches smart with this. You’re not getting a better deal than that.
@@brittanyparker-vaughan2881 I bought a pack of 5 smart light switches from "Treatlife" for $35-40 3 years ago.. so yes you can get a better deal. but with the same features? likely not.
Yup and if he plugs ANYTHING in rated for more current that that CHINESE io wifi switch can handle he gets a FREE HOUSE FIRE! @@brittanyparker-vaughan2881
The current rating of that device is TERRIBLE. Also it's a code violation per NEC 2020 @@RossBobby
Cycling your RESIDENTIAL garage door is a BAD IDEA. Those small operators and sometimes the plastic belts are junk and will break not to mention the rapid torque change from LIFTING TO PUSHING your door closed will without a doubt greatly lower the life of your operator!; Lazy tech means unwanted IO hacks.
I can barely get my switches in the switch box. How the hell am I suppose to get this box in there. LOL
I guess you need to swap out some boxes.
They do make boxes that are deeper than the standard box, but you need to make sure you have enough room in the wall for the deeper size. Plus, it can be a pain to remove the nail in the old box, unless you have a Oscillating Multi-Tool (every home should have one!).
hi