I've spent years trying to get my head around electrical circuits. I genuinely think this is the best explanation I've seen to date. You could set up a UA-cam channel for teaching electrics to people as a side line and I'd subscribe to that too. Thank you for this Brian. Hugely appreciated as always. Keep up the great work.
Home Assistant Home Assistant Home Assistant! But also, thank you so much for this. Saw another video on the wiring of it and it was not at all clear. You did a great job.
Electrician here, slight correction on the pig tail name origin or meaning. Any short wire or cable used for a connection. This connection can be twisted wires, plugs on a chord or flexible conduit etc. When wire or cable or flexible conduit is taken off a roll it still holds the shape it had on the roll. Often these are short and coiled when using it this specific way. That's why it's a pig tail. Great video as always. Very professional and informative. I really liked your video on writing automations. You did a great job explaining triggers, preconditions,and there purpose.
Thanks...this is very helpful. I will be using the Aqara T2 relay to bring my Chamberlain (MyQ) garage door opener back into Apple HomeKit since Chamberlain recently killed the API access for their Homebridge hub.
Great video, thanks! I have a scenario I'm considering using the Aqara relay for, but I'm not sure what the best set up is. I have a "dumb" humidifier that has an on/off button that runs to the PCB and I'm pretty sure is LV because if I unplug the appliance whilst it is on and then plug it back in, it only turns on again when I press the on/off button. What I would like to do is to connect the Aqara relay to the on/off switch so I can control it remotely. Would I need to provide power to the switch separately from the device's power supply (i.e. an additional power cord), or can I connect the Live and Neutral wires of the device's power cord to the Live and Neutral contacts on the Aqara, connect the L1 and Lout contacts on the Aqara to the Live and Neutral inputs on the PCB, and then connect the devices LV switch to the S1 and Com ports? Or is there a simpler/better way to do this?
I think because of the way the T2 works, you couldn't use it for this. It exposes full power to the switches, so...you need a different relay. Look up Zooz, Shelly. :)
@@AutomateYourLife merci. If I just wanted to simply simulate the “button” press to turn the unit on, I imagine this would work if I run a separate power supply to the T2, operate in dry contact mode, and connect the “switch” to L1/Lout?
When it comes to pen testers. I was always told to Test it (with a known power), Check the one you are checking, but then go back and test it again with a known good one. Just to be sure it is working properly.
Yeah that’s a common practice that guarantees the safety of a testing tool. It’s a little hard to guarantee a pen tester is working though, so the process I gave gets you fairly close without having to own a couple. But if you can do this, 100%
The wireless switch mode i've found is best used with smart bulbs. You turn on the wireless mode, then plug in a smart bulb and configure the switch to turn the bulb on and off inside your software. Then it behaves just like a physical switch, but doesn't actually cut power to the bulb when you flip it. The smart bulb can then be used in other automations while being powered all the time. This is especially true for colored bulbs, dimming smart bulbs and ones that can change the light warmth of the bulb.
Ah! I think wireless mode is what I am looking for. How is this labelled on the switch/relay modules? I'm looking for a zigbee relay module with wireless mode that I can use to control smart bulbs.(And ideally one compatible with hue hub).
Awesome video! Thank you very much from Barcelona! Just one question: I have neutral wire so, what do I have to do with the neutral wire from de switch? just leave it?
I don't have your home wiring to look at, but nope! This relay uses the neutral wire and requires it to be wired into your relay! There's an N there on the relay and that's where you are going with neutrals!
What relay would you recommend for a roller door for my robot mower. It needs to be 2 channel for up and down signal. The switch is 240v. Which relay works nice with home assistant and do they have ones that do rf along side smart home integration for a dumb remote?
Too complex for me to recommend one. I feel like maybe Shelly will have you covered but check with an electrician to match your specs or that 240V could go spectacularly wrong.
Hi. What a great video. Ive recently installed a T2 module on my garage with dry mode and its working perfectly wen i push the first button in the app. But i would like to know how can i use the second buttom that we can see in the app
The buzzer on my door intercom system isn’t very loud and therefore I want to use this relay to send a sound to my HomePod speakers whenever the intercom button is pressed. Can I do this with the Aqara Relay?
@@AutomateYourLife I guess this relay generally works by opening or closing a set of contacts when it is activated by HomeKit. I’m looking for the reverse of this. Are there a set of contacts on the relay that if bridged will activate my HomeKit system. If so, would it allow me to play sound on my HomePods and flash my lights in certain area’s to indicate that my intercom has been activated.
In dry contact mode.. can we use both L1 and L2 as 2 separate contact switches? Would it mean Lout will connect to both ends of those contact switches?
Excellent review of relays. I understand that while the Aqara relay has the features you describe. I thought the Shelly system has another feature that is useful which is that it can also issue smart commands to another device in addition to switching its state internally. I wanted to use this to put behind a standard switch to allow a smart light to stay powered when the switch is off but the state of switch then determines the device on off state in the smart light in its own internal software. Is this a valid use case? I have in the past simply bridged the wall connection to make an always on link to the light and then installing a smart switch and not wiring its switching to the light but simply use the switch to off/on the light via an automation.
Leaving power to another device isn't something that a relay does naturally. A relay, by nature, changes power to the device when you ask it to. It's not providing power all the time (not a normal use case anyways). However, I do think Shelly has an option for this through their web app. It's them building up the connectivity options. It won't work with everything out there though as far as I know. I haven't used it extensively though, so can't comment fully. I guess the question I have is why are you trying to do this much control? If it's a valid use case to you, that is great. But a smart switch will likely do this all better as long as you don't use it for the dimming features on the switch. So I feel like you have the best solution already! You just need to use the on command to set the state of the bulb and same with the off command. Create 2 automations to do so. :) Using the same switch within the same app/system will help too.
@@AutomateYourLife Thanks for your response, you have confirmed my suspicion that relays as configured are a poor choice for this need. The issue is that of smart lights versus smart switches. If you install smart lights but retain conventional switches then they go dumb and loose connectivity as soon as someone operates the switch. However, smart switches paired with dumb lights limit the control options such as color temperature and flexibility in routines. Of all the brands I know here in Australia, only Lifx offers switch and light combinations what can operate both in smart mode and not cut power to the light. However, my experience with them is that they use poor wifi implementation that get confused by 2.4 and 5 GHz wifi. However, my solution of using a smart switch with the lights power wired to always on leaves you with problems for in ceiling lights that need 3 or 5 power cycles to jump into pairing mode. You can do this on the mains circuit but that means pushing all lights on a circuit into pairing when you might not want to do this. That then leaves me climbing a ladder to access the circuit in the ceiling which fortunately now often plugged. This could be resolved by manufacturers, design lights and switches that can operate collaboratively and keep the power on state of a turned of light. Alternatively, allow for the device to be software reset to a pairing mode versus the power cycling. Some devices now do the software mode reset. A relay specifically designed to isolate the switch circuit from the power switching and that is able to send a command to smart light would also be nice to have as appears to be an option in the Shelly App but suspect that Shelly does alter the function of relay but does the signaling to the smart light out of the web app, not from the relay itself. Maybe I am wrong.
Also, did find that, as you recommend, two automations, one for on and one for off are better than a change of state automation which does on/off. I use HomeKit, have a mix of Hue and Generic Zigbee lights, use a Zemismart hub to run the generic stuff and like to HK as well as an Aqara M2 to drive my blinds and door bells and some thread via HomeKit motion and contact sensors with HomeKit video cameras.
Even people that are not beginners could learn from a "beginners guide" This is a great little tutorial and there are some great ideas in the video. Thanks for the time you put in to this. The Wago style connector is popular outside of North America, but I beleive Wire Nuts are very popular in North America still. The jury is out as to what is the best method still. Done correctly, using wirenuts of the right size, they can be just as good as any other connection.
Oh thanks sir! There was a lot of effort and time into this. I tell you though, my fingers love those Wago connectors! You folks outside of N.A. have it right as far as I'm concerned.
You could potentially. You'd have to interrupt the circuit and get this in the middle. Likely can do it up at the fan itself but think about how that'll work with the remote after! And check with an electrician please!
my home is equipped with motirized roller shutters with a switch with 2 rockers to make them roll up and down. Do you think that I can automate them with this relay? Thank you for your videos!!
Hey guys - at 19:58 - The statement is missing from the video. I had made a mistake with what I said. Black goes into L/Live/Hot and White goes into Neutral here in North America.
Hello, is there any way how to connect 3 physical switches for one light (as one switch is by doors and 2 others by beds) with relay module (one or more) so i still can use those switches so as using app to turn lights on and off, thanks
You'd need to talk to an electrician. It would depend on how you want to control them (and ratings). But I would suggest you just get 2 relays and then you absolutely will!
First of all thanks for this video . I am not sure if you mention this at any point or i missed it , but as I am aiming to install these modules behind many of my traditional switches which are traditionally dimmable , does this offer dimming ? If not , can a workaround happen somehow to dim the lights from my phone? Neither am I an electrician nor do I know much about circuits I'm just gonna tell this to my electrician if you could help !
Without knowing your system, I'd have a hard time helping much. I think ask your electrician but it SOUNDS like you're going to be fine. The relay will power on the circuit and then the dimmer will deal with the rest.
Hi, I'm not an electrician and I wanted to ask you if I would like to use the aqara t2 for a switch with 3 "claps", two of them to manage two different lights. Each with its own light, left to left and right to right, and the middle "click" to access an automation in this aqara application .
Sure! I'm confused when you say claps, but you can have any third button or switch be the control for an automation with Aqara. The t2 likely wouldn't be wired in to that 3rd switch or button. Maybe just get a button from aqara?
I believe the setting has three different options on it. That's somewhere later in the video if you want to find it, but it can remember the last date it had when the power went out
I have a motion detector and would like the Aqara T2 to recognize when the motion detector sends power to S1. Is the voltage too high because I am not coming from the COM port? The output from motion detector is up to 230 Volt.
As I think about this, it feels like you have something wired wrong. The Motion Detector can act as a switch, since it's line side voltage. So maybe chat with Aqara support to make sure you've got this wired up right and that it can handle your sensor. I believe the COM port and the lower half are exposed to line side voltage, so I don't think it's a problem with voltage.
@@Fadirko voltage only I think. Amps I believe is based on the device attached. I don't have the diagram for the internals. Hence the chat with Aqara recommendation ;)
Thanks for demystifying these. I always wondered about them. The ratings thing is still overwhelming enough for me to avoid using these for now though. I'm no stranger to electrical; I wired our basement. But just having to account for wire gauge, heat, amps, watts, it's just too confusing.
I unfortunately can't tell you about that brand specifically. But most fireplaces should be workable with the dual relay option and some of the settings that let you do pulse, etc..
Hi Brian. This vid was very informative. Can I connect this to a siren, so that I can use it with the aqara hub and it's smart button to create a panic button situation?
How would this work using a Shelly 2pm plus? It seems very similar to me, but there's no com connection. I'm trying to tie the Shelly into a pull chain fan/light on a single wall switch. I want to keep the light tied into the wall switch via the relay circuit 1, but keep the fan on circuit 2 with the wireless switch only. I get as far as tying the SW1 on the relay to L1 on the wall switch, but without a com connection I can't figure out what to tie to L on the switch. Also, I only have N at the fixture in my house, not the switch. Also will not take the internet's word alone before messing with my home wiring, but a little stuck here.
@@AutomateYourLife Thanks! I'd already looked at Rob's Shelly videos and hadn't found one that really got into the 2. But in searching again, The Algorithm was kind and showed me one on the 2.5 from a different UA-camr. Seems solid and lines up with what I learned from other sources. Adding the link here in case anyone else has the same type of question. ua-cam.com/video/4WwbgCClpXA/v-deo.htmlsi=wQ5vbSmZL4CvUlaK
I stil have a question sir, so if i get the Aqara switch without neutral. After clicking the switch physical will the switch tell me that light is on or not on the phone? or will this only happen when I have the relay one or with neutral. I hope you get my question
I think you're trying to combine this relay with an Aqara smart switch. I don't think you can do that. This relay requires a neutral. The Switch does not. I don't know that you should (or even could) wire this up.
@@AutomateYourLife I think my explanations is not correct. I want to know with which aqara product will I get a relay system? So that when someone press the switch my phone will also know that the switch is on?
I've got one question. What does it happens when I have 2 lamps commanded by 2 different deviators each, in 2 separated boxes. Example, in my dining room I have two entrances and there are two lamps. I can command these 2 lamps from each of the accesses. I want to use the Aqara's T2 in order to get command the lights from my phone. BTW, good job, thanks for your detailed explanations
Hey Giuseppe, I'd love to help you here but the terms you're using are very different to what I'm used to. But I think if I'm understanding you correctly, you have two separate switches with two separate runs to lamps. If that's the case, I'd just suggest you get two relays. Maybe just a single relay for each switch instead of a dual 😃 You'd be coming across with wires if you're using one relay. It's not going to be worth it vs the cost of a second relay
Great video! Could you do one explaining how to wire up this relay in a 2-way switch system? 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Aqara says it’s possible but won’t provide a diagram!
It is? Sorry! I watched it again and couldn’t figure it out. 😅 Really noob with wiring here. I thought the diagram you did was for two lights and two switches. How would that work for a single light connected to a set of two-way switches? One switch upstairs and one downstairs. Looking to install the relay next to the downstairs switch.
Good question. You can, but think about powering the relay! Your diagram would be a bit different obviously, as you'd have the extra wiring happening at the switch.
Hello, great video! I was looking to control a small DC motor or 110V moteur with Aqara orMeross relays, or 2 homekit switches + scene/automation for duration or meross garage door opener. Any idea or suggestion for the best way to automate a motor (front/reverse/stop) in homekit? Thanks for the suggestion
This relay (the T2) does have reversible motor control in it. I didn't talk about that in this video cause it isn't a common use case, but you can use this with HomeKit through Aqara's normal integration methods or the Matter in their M2/M1S/E1 Hubs
@@AutomateYourLife thanks for your reply ! I am just curious about triggers to stop the motor / relay. What would you suggest ? Timer or trigger? This why I was interested in the garage opener from Meross
🤣🤣🤣 At my old job, we regularly burned down buildings and equipment. It was spectacular to see, and taught me a lot about electrical gear! But yeah, I’d be a little worried 😉
I dunno - maybe seeing that many fires adds credibility. I never met a really good shop teacher with all 10 fingers intact. Maybe electrical fires are how you level up in this field. 🙂
Hi there. I'm struggling to find something that could sense a device has powered on and then at this moment, turn a couple of other devices on. I'd like for the opposite to be true ie. Original device powered off means the couple of other devices turn off. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm lost right now.
You'd be able to do that with most relays, I think. It all depends on if you mean the device itself turns off, or if you mean you turn it off through the relay. Just about any relay does the latter. Otherwise you likely need a smart plug with energy monitoring
I like the garage door option, but I still don't understand if that is better that the garage door opener app. I would like to geomap so I don't have to push any buttons and it just opens when I am in the vicinity.
I think it depends on whether or not you find the Aqara app (or HomeKit) app good at recognizing you're home. It also depends more on if your phone is reporting GPS location back to those services often enough
Hi Brian I am looking to do something unusual and hope you can assist - I have a dumb light outside my patio that I want to make smart but I also want to power a set of string lights also. I have bought an Aqara dual relay module T 2 and wanted to use the cable to the existing light and make it smart but use the second relay to power and control the string lights I am planning to put the relay in an I p rated weather proof box but having watched this video I am uncertain how to do the wiring Any help appreciated
Will one of the controls be on/off and the other control would be fan speed level 1, 2 or 3 or perhaps, the second control would simply be a slider that allows me to increase the fan speed?
Seems like I have a problem. My switch life is also the life of an outlet. I don’t have enough wires to connect both seperate. Is it safe to connect life to com? I mean the direct 230V life? Fun fact if I disconnect and connect the load side of the switch without touching it it turns on and of. It’s one of the switches with a light inside. Maybe it’s never 100% off and that’s why it’s not working for me 🤔
Noooo I don't think you can do what you're doing here. Live to com isn't good either. Maybe check in with Aqara themselves. The device is rated to handle lots but I don't think this is going to work
Great video!!! I used one to control 2 ceiling light from switches and it works great…I’d like to use it also as roller shutter controller but unfortunately seems that is still not supported in the Aqara app (at least not the percentage, only open or close). I hope Aqara will add this feature in the future, maybe with home assistant?
Check the specs but it's possible to use it just like the switch in this circuit. It'll all depend on the photocell. Remember those switch contacts are exposed to whatever's on the line side of the relay....
Hi Again; after installing 7 Aqara relays, the delay between the physical switches and the lights is killing me. It generates a lot of confusion in my family, so they think the lights do not work correctly. Can we solve this in any way? I was thinking about changing the E1 hub to M2 .... but I think this will not solve anything.
Weird. I'm not sure what's going on. Perhaps the loading is causing additional time? If you watch when I do it, there IS a slight delay but I'm surprised to hear anyone's struggling with that delay. So honestly, I don't know what's going on for you
Well wired it as this input 1 is a garage door input with a garage connect on the floor. This is designed for dc 10vdc to 24vdc but have 120vac (very little current for the input. Wired com to input 1. Input 2 is photocell which is 120vac with 120vac output for a light controller. I wired this to 120vac and used red light control wire to input 2. So I know when it’s dark and when door is open. MyQ issue since they don’t wish to send me when door is open or closed. Is why I started with a dual T2 relay.
Do you know if it’s possible to use an Aqara T2 relay as a dry contact switch on one channel and a wet contact switch on the second channel? I’d like to use one to control my gas fireplace; dry for the flame control and wet for the blower.
Sadly, I don't believe you'll be able to do that. I can't see a way. You'd likely end up with a second relay anyways, so...I think just buy 2 fit for purpose relays
Thank you so much for the video! Its the most detailed and clear one on Aqara T2 by far. Just a question, as we need to connect the red wire from LIN to LOUT to bring the line power to the other side of the relay, why would it be named LIN (shouldn't it be line out as electricity flow out from there)? And shouldn't LOUT be LIN since you are bringing the line voltage into the L1 and L2 side? Also can you also not connect the line from utility to LOUT directly (and L to power the T2) and skip the connection between LIN and LOUT? Since we need to connect neutral from utility to both the T2 neutral and L1/L2 neutral (ie. at light bulb) anyway, so why not connect the line power to LOUT directly as well? Seems like LIN is not needed?
Hey! Thanks 😃 Lin and lout are jumpered out for most of the ways you'll use this in your home! However, there are a few cases where you'll need it! I believe...it was the garage where I removed it in this video. Sorry, been a while ;)
Рік тому
Thanks, can you share a video showing how to installa two way relay? Im having issues making two switches to turn on one single light
I don't understand the question actually! A 2 way light would be a single pole switch, which I showed here
Рік тому
@@AutomateYourLife I'm not sure if I understand myself neither, I have two conmutable switch's that turn on one single bulb but I'm not been able to follow the instructions, I did but then the physical switches stopped working 😢
@@AutomateYourLife I used to have just one SmartThings multisensor on my garage door but two magnets. With this I made an automation that turned lights green when opening, and red when closing, (xyz status). Unfortunantly SmartThings dont offer automation with xyz status as condition. Do you have any solution for this?
You can use a relay with a standard switch absolutely. Keep in mind the relay kills power though, so you’d be taking away your smart features until you turned on the relay and then gave the bulbs a few seconds to reconnect
The short answer is no! Your smart bulbs would lose power and thus become unresponsive to any controls. The main purpose of a smart relay is to control a non-smart item.
In my testing, a button off the S1/COM1 only works with 120V AC power and does not work on 24V DC power. My use case had to have a button on 24V DC so hopefully that is something that works in the future.
Bond has an actual fan controller that goes in the canopy and can do all of this PLUS control the fan speed. It comes built in to some fans, but you can buy it. Can't remember if it's HD or Lowe's that sell them. And it's not their hub that you see advertised that works like the fan remotes by replicating their RF. I think Inovelli is also coming out with one. Bonus in that their shaped to fit in tight ceiling fan housings like regular fan controllers.
Convert to wireless switch would be great for a Porchlight/Security camera combination that you don't want people switching off the camera to turn off the porch light!
For 2 pins outlets, be very careful with the last setup and which is neutral and live in your power outlet. You can easily switch the neutral with live just by how you plug in your socket in the outlet. Things can go wrong, especially if you use the com ports.
In Australia it would be illegal not to use an electrician for installation. We have this so that a standard and safety is paramount. This is unusual in most countries, but we use lethal 240V-10A everywhere.
Here in the UK all the public are allowed to do is change a switch or socket, any wiring change or change to a circuit has to have a works certificate from the electrician. Here in the UK portable appliances (TV, Kettle, washing machines etc) have a plug with a fuse in it (13A, 10A, 7A, 5A, 3A, 2A, 1A), the plug goes into the wall socket which has a 32A MCB protecting the ring circuit (starts at the breaker goes round to all the sockets and then back to the breaker, the fuse / mcb it there to protect the cable not the appliance. 240v / 110v doesnt matter if you get a fault current running through you then you are in trouble. Now we have fault detection like - earth leakage protection. surge protection, overload protection, arc detectors, these were introduced due to the amount of electrical fires the firebrigade were dealing with here in the UK. It has changed so much since I went to college on the late 80's (1980's that is).
If the garage door does not operate by the simple pulse connection, then no way to use this relay to control the door? One of mine works but the other doesn't.
@@AutomateYourLife Just for your information, I bought T2 and tested it on my garage door (Chamberlain with yellow learning button), Unfortunately, none of the options in the T2 relay works for my case. I'm just thinking of soldering wire from T2 to the wall button.
Great VIdeo! Can't seem to find it for purchase yet. Want to automate my gas fireplace think this should work well and much smaller than the zwave one I was looking at from Zooz.
I think you over complicated it. A relay is basically a switch that controls another switch but internally, before anything happens. It has 2 states on the exit, NO or NC normally open or normally closed and these states are operated by the relay receiving or not some electricity. The pulse mode is very specific mainly to garage door openers. The fact this ones controls 2 units as well as AC and DC outputs just make it more versatile, but also more dangerous because of the risks of sending some AC to DC things. Furthermore, it is a huge piece of relay ! Theres no way to hide this inside a box without a lot of risks in the wall as you said. But hey great video, as always.
In the case of this relay, I think the biggest risk is that you could be putting in a full AC home connection in and then connecting a sensor that isn’t ready for that. That would be the biggest concern I would have, and that would only happen on the S1/2/com side of things. Someone could also conceivably use the jumper cable and hit their load device with the wrong voltage and current as well so you have to watch out for that too
So the resistive load of the relay is 2.5KW @ 250v (So in the UK it would be 2.4KW), But the LED, Compact Fluorescent, and Linear Fluorescent tube are only rated to 1A due to these being inductive loads. When trying to work out your Wattage for you country you need to Voltage (for your country) X Current rating of relay = Wattage you can safely use. Please please please if you are not sure about this or how it works then do not attempt this. In the electrical game we have a saying “a little bit of electrical knowledge is dangerous” and I have seen this saying proved right time and time again. This is the problem with these types of videos, people see this done and think I can do that and end up wiring Lin to the NO contact and when it switches flash bang it is cream crackered. I know @automateyourlife is trying to be helpful but don’t show people how to wire these things up. Let them talk to an electrician. Love the relay idea but the quality of the relay is my biggest gripe. 👍🏻👍🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻😉😉👌🏻👌🏻
Great tutorial, Brian. Thanks! I have been looking at these for switches and misunderstood how the wall switch and relay interact. Now that you demoed it, especially the comment and visual that the wall switch emulates a 3-way setup, it makes sense to me. I have a question now about "wireless switch" mode, which I think you may have misunderstood since you showed it as functionally equivalent to disabling the switch entirely. Here's my alternate theory and maybe if I'm right you will do another video showing it. I suspect that in either mode, the relay exposes the load to the home automation system which we might label as "porch light" or some such. But it seems to me that enabling wireless switch would expose the switch as a distinct device, separate from the load. So, for example, now we have "porch light" and "porch light switch" exposed in the hub as separately controllable devices. If true, the obvious next step is to define an automation to connect them such that hitting the switch operates the light, or possibly operates both S1 and S2 loads from a single switch. If I'm correct, the switch in wireless mode functions as it did when dumb - up is on, down is off. This may be more intuitive (i.e. higher spouse approval factor) than acting like a 3-way in a use case where there is no second physical switch. The additional benefit of this is the ability to tie in other loads so we might end up with a load device called "porch light" and a switch device we label "Front outdoor lights" that operates floods, landscape lights, the porch light, and (seasonally) holiday decorations based on defined automations to tie it all together. Am I close on this or is this just wishful thinking? Because I really like it and my use case needs S1 & S2, but I'm not going to the trouble of expanding the junction box if wireless switch mode doesn't expose the switch(es) separate from the loads. Would be really cool to dive deeper into the wireless mode in a follow-up. Thanks again!
Hey T.Rob! Thanks for watching and the kudos. Sadly for you (and great for me), I don’t think I misunderstood Wireless Switch mode. I say that because we had a technical review with the engineers at Aqara before this went out. It was done specifically for that reason…so we had the technicalities right. Wireless Switch mode as I understand it is going to be more for those times when you want to eliminate a switch or more often for a sensor you want to connect (garage door example comes to mind).
Thanks for the reply, @@AutomateYourLife. I guess I was looking for a use case that makes sense there. If the wall switch is connected to the device and the app is set to Disable Mode, the wall switch might as well not be present. Similarly, setting Wireless Mode also functionally disabled the switch, or at least that's what it looked like in the video. Any sensor would, as I understand it, need to present on/off states because the device senses continuity not voltage. That would mean sensor use cases are same as switch use cases, even the garage door sensor. Coding and testing costs money so nobody codes different modes that have no functional difference. Which means there's still some difference between Disable and Wireless mode I'm just not seeing. Unfortunately, their online manual only covers installation and not the different behaviors in the app. It does have a diagram (first one) in which the external switch replaces the jumper and the user is switching between wet and dry mode. This wasn't covered in the video and I don't quite understand the expected behavior. Now I'm wondering if maybe that configuration is where Wireless mode becomes useful? End of the day, I might need to set up a test bench similar to yours and just play around with it. I took advantage of Big Deal Day, or whatever Amazon calls this one, to pick up my first Aquara hub and a couple of FP2 devices. Maybe I'll go back and grab one of these too.
@@AutomateYourLife I'm surpised that is the conclusion you came to after reviewing with the engineers. Wireless switch mode as I understand it just means that the switch or switches that you attach to the control terminals S1 and S2 can just become an independent switch devices uncoupled from the relay operation of L1 and L2. Such a switch can be used to trigger an automation or a scene just like any other independent smart switch or button. And as your experiment demonstrated, the switch operation in this mode no longer affects the L1 and L2 behavior naturally. Here's a section from another review that covers this ua-cam.com/video/ToJHXnb9BR8/v-deo.html
Yeah OK, so I'm seeing what's being said here now. So you can drive an automation with the S1 or S2 contacts for something else in your home. So it does look like some of what TDotRob is asking for is possible through the automation engine in Aqara's app. I think maybe Aqara just felt like this was enough of a guide...and so did I. But that's where these things are different
TWO THINGS FROM JUST 14 MINUTES IN, i always use color coded heat shink. Secondly at 14 minutes in, WHY does that relay show all [- ] neg above them, except for what you said was ''N'' it has the [+] above it?
So I asked Aqara about that. They said their was a specific code requirement in a country that made them do this. Good question and keen eye catching that. And yes! Color coded heat shrink is great
I’d suggest not using pencils on your diagrams. There isn’t enough contrast between #2 pencil lead and white paper. Black pencil lead or sharpies would make it much easier to see. Great video
Alright … I’ll post the dumb question. I can’t get this thing to power on. I’ve tried three different 12v power supply’s and two different relays. Nothing. Never make it to setup. Now what?
There are no dumb questions with relays. I don't know if there's something off with your 12V power supplies. Sounds like something is off with that. Maybe try making the cable I make at: 18:53 - Power Up a Smart Relay Easily With This.
While you mentioned the caveats a number of time, I dont think this product is for North America (or EU/UK). And definately not for beginners. It is only 10A and all NA circuit breakers are 15/20A. The fail point becomes the relay on a circuit short. Plus this relay module is too beefy to fit in a NA single gang box without impacting switches, outlets and connectors. I don't see a UL or ETL certification. Both Aqara and Sonoff need to rethink their solution for NA and EU. Shelly does it right (UL versions). Love Aqara sensors but as a EE, this is a risky solution. Most electricians probably had a heart attack. Don't burn your house down.
@@AutomateYourLife Brian, just some good practices on wiring - putting wired on clockwise, backplating, etc. a great UA-cam video be Scott at Everyday Home Repairs - ua-cam.com/video/CsiK2aqzcqQ/v-deo.html (#1 Best Video for DIY Electrical Outlet Basics). Just so you don't give all the electricians heart-attacks!!!
![[#58] Убер-реле Aqara T2 с сухим контактом и беспроводным режимом](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SmJUF5Wm4yU/mqdefault.jpg)
I've spent years trying to get my head around electrical circuits. I genuinely think this is the best explanation I've seen to date. You could set up a UA-cam channel for teaching electrics to people as a side line and I'd subscribe to that too. Thank you for this Brian. Hugely appreciated as always. Keep up the great work.
Wow, thanks! That was my goal...teach people to try and let them grow from there. So happy to see someone get the benefit I was hoping for!
@@AutomateYourLife still trying to work out whether I'm brave enough to install my T2 relay 😬, but that's another matter (pun intended 😉)....
@@AutomateYourLife and finally braved it. Have installed 3 of them now and work perfectly. Thanks for your invaluable explanation.
This video is AWESOME. I watched it once and bookmarked it as a favorite soni can come back to it for reference. Thanks for doing this!
Oh man Chris, thank you for that!
Home Assistant Home Assistant Home Assistant! But also, thank you so much for this. Saw another video on the wiring of it and it was not at all clear. You did a great job.
Are you thrusting into the air when you say that?
Electrician here, slight correction on the pig tail name origin or meaning. Any short wire or cable used for a connection. This connection can be twisted wires, plugs on a chord or flexible conduit etc.
When wire or cable or flexible conduit is taken off a roll it still holds the shape it had on the roll. Often these are short and coiled when using it this specific way. That's why it's a pig tail.
Great video as always. Very professional and informative. I really liked your video on writing automations. You did a great job explaining triggers, preconditions,and there purpose.
Thanks Jared! Appreciate the correction on pigtail!
Thanks...this is very helpful. I will be using the Aqara T2 relay to bring my Chamberlain (MyQ) garage door opener back into Apple HomeKit since Chamberlain recently killed the API access for their Homebridge hub.
What a terrible move by Chamberlain there.
Me too!
Great video, thanks! I have a scenario I'm considering using the Aqara relay for, but I'm not sure what the best set up is. I have a "dumb" humidifier that has an on/off button that runs to the PCB and I'm pretty sure is LV because if I unplug the appliance whilst it is on and then plug it back in, it only turns on again when I press the on/off button. What I would like to do is to connect the Aqara relay to the on/off switch so I can control it remotely. Would I need to provide power to the switch separately from the device's power supply (i.e. an additional power cord), or can I connect the Live and Neutral wires of the device's power cord to the Live and Neutral contacts on the Aqara, connect the L1 and Lout contacts on the Aqara to the Live and Neutral inputs on the PCB, and then connect the devices LV switch to the S1 and Com ports? Or is there a simpler/better way to do this?
I think because of the way the T2 works, you couldn't use it for this. It exposes full power to the switches, so...you need a different relay. Look up Zooz, Shelly. :)
@@AutomateYourLife merci. If I just wanted to simply simulate the “button” press to turn the unit on, I imagine this would work if I run a separate power supply to the T2, operate in dry contact mode, and connect the “switch” to L1/Lout?
Is there a IR or RF remote to the humidifier involved? Then you can do something with that
When it comes to pen testers. I was always told to Test it (with a known power), Check the one you are checking, but then go back and test it again with a known good one. Just to be sure it is working properly.
Yeah that’s a common practice that guarantees the safety of a testing tool.
It’s a little hard to guarantee a pen tester is working though, so the process I gave gets you fairly close without having to own a couple. But if you can do this, 100%
Thanks for all your hard work, Brian!
Thank you for all you do!
The wireless switch mode i've found is best used with smart bulbs. You turn on the wireless mode, then plug in a smart bulb and configure the switch to turn the bulb on and off inside your software. Then it behaves just like a physical switch, but doesn't actually cut power to the bulb when you flip it. The smart bulb can then be used in other automations while being powered all the time.
This is especially true for colored bulbs, dimming smart bulbs and ones that can change the light warmth of the bulb.
Right! Thank you!
Ah! I think wireless mode is what I am looking for. How is this labelled on the switch/relay modules? I'm looking for a zigbee relay module with wireless mode that I can use to control smart bulbs.(And ideally one compatible with hue hub).
Awesome video! Thank you very much from Barcelona! Just one question: I have neutral wire so, what do I have to do with the neutral wire from de switch? just leave it?
I don't have your home wiring to look at, but nope! This relay uses the neutral wire and requires it to be wired into your relay! There's an N there on the relay and that's where you are going with neutrals!
What relay would you recommend for a roller door for my robot mower. It needs to be 2 channel for up and down signal. The switch is 240v. Which relay works nice with home assistant and do they have ones that do rf along side smart home integration for a dumb remote?
Too complex for me to recommend one. I feel like maybe Shelly will have you covered but check with an electrician to match your specs or that 240V could go spectacularly wrong.
@AutomateYourLife I see what you did there. When the house burns down I will say the youtube channel called automateyourhousefire showed me.
If you have two wall switch; one for the light and the other for fan. Can you the two physical switches on the same T2 relay?
It's gonna depend on ratings, and fans usually have different requirements. Check with an electrician when you have all 3 ratings gathered
Hi. What a great video. Ive recently installed a T2 module on my garage with dry mode and its working perfectly wen i push the first button in the app. But i would like to know how can i use the second buttom that we can see in the app
That's for a second switch. In this case though it would likely have to be another garage door
The buzzer on my door intercom system isn’t very loud and therefore I want to use this relay to send a sound to my HomePod speakers whenever the intercom button is pressed. Can I do this with the Aqara Relay?
I suppose it's possible, but I don't know your intercom. I'd get a smaller relay though
@@AutomateYourLife I guess this relay generally works by opening or closing a set of contacts when it is activated by HomeKit. I’m looking for the reverse of this. Are there a set of contacts on the relay that if bridged will activate my HomeKit system. If so, would it allow me to play sound on my HomePods and flash my lights in certain area’s to indicate that my intercom has been activated.
In dry contact mode.. can we use both L1 and L2 as 2 separate contact switches? Would it mean Lout will connect to both ends of those contact switches?
Excellent review of relays. I understand that while the Aqara relay has the features you describe. I thought the Shelly system has another feature that is useful which is that it can also issue smart commands to another device in addition to switching its state internally. I wanted to use this to put behind a standard switch to allow a smart light to stay powered when the switch is off but the state of switch then determines the device on off state in the smart light in its own internal software. Is this a valid use case? I have in the past simply bridged the wall connection to make an always on link to the light and then installing a smart switch and not wiring its switching to the light but simply use the switch to off/on the light via an automation.
Leaving power to another device isn't something that a relay does naturally. A relay, by nature, changes power to the device when you ask it to. It's not providing power all the time (not a normal use case anyways).
However, I do think Shelly has an option for this through their web app. It's them building up the connectivity options. It won't work with everything out there though as far as I know. I haven't used it extensively though, so can't comment fully.
I guess the question I have is why are you trying to do this much control? If it's a valid use case to you, that is great. But a smart switch will likely do this all better as long as you don't use it for the dimming features on the switch. So I feel like you have the best solution already! You just need to use the on command to set the state of the bulb and same with the off command. Create 2 automations to do so. :)
Using the same switch within the same app/system will help too.
@@AutomateYourLife Thanks for your response, you have confirmed my suspicion that relays as configured are a poor choice for this need. The issue is that of smart lights versus smart switches. If you install smart lights but retain conventional switches then they go dumb and loose connectivity as soon as someone operates the switch. However, smart switches paired with dumb lights limit the control options such as color temperature and flexibility in routines. Of all the brands I know here in Australia, only Lifx offers switch and light combinations what can operate both in smart mode and not cut power to the light. However, my experience with them is that they use poor wifi implementation that get confused by 2.4 and 5 GHz wifi. However, my solution of using a smart switch with the lights power wired to always on leaves you with problems for in ceiling lights that need 3 or 5 power cycles to jump into pairing mode. You can do this on the mains circuit but that means pushing all lights on a circuit into pairing when you might not want to do this. That then leaves me climbing a ladder to access the circuit in the ceiling which fortunately now often plugged. This could be resolved by manufacturers, design lights and switches that can operate collaboratively and keep the power on state of a turned of light. Alternatively, allow for the device to be software reset to a pairing mode versus the power cycling. Some devices now do the software mode reset. A relay specifically designed to isolate the switch circuit from the power switching and that is able to send a command to smart light would also be nice to have as appears to be an option in the Shelly App but suspect that Shelly does alter the function of relay but does the signaling to the smart light out of the web app, not from the relay itself. Maybe I am wrong.
Also, did find that, as you recommend, two automations, one for on and one for off are better than a change of state automation which does on/off. I use HomeKit, have a mix of Hue and Generic Zigbee lights, use a Zemismart hub to run the generic stuff and like to HK as well as an Aqara M2 to drive my blinds and door bells and some thread via HomeKit motion and contact sensors with HomeKit video cameras.
Even people that are not beginners could learn from a "beginners guide"
This is a great little tutorial and there are some great ideas in the video. Thanks for the time you put in to this.
The Wago style connector is popular outside of North America, but I beleive Wire Nuts are very popular in North America still. The jury is out as to what is the best method still. Done correctly, using wirenuts of the right size, they can be just as good as any other connection.
Oh thanks sir! There was a lot of effort and time into this.
I tell you though, my fingers love those Wago connectors! You folks outside of N.A. have it right as far as I'm concerned.
WAGO is making it way into the Electrical Code in many US states.
At 32:08 the loop is on the wrong side, it should 'close' when you tighten the screw
You folks find everything!
@@AutomateYourLife :)
can i use this with a smart light and keep power on to light even when turned off from switch?
Relays aren't built for that really. Relays turn on/off power
Can I use this on a ceiling fan? I don’t have a wall switch just the remote control
You could potentially. You'd have to interrupt the circuit and get this in the middle. Likely can do it up at the fan itself but think about how that'll work with the remote after!
And check with an electrician please!
my home is equipped with motirized roller shutters with a switch with 2 rockers to make them roll up and down. Do you think that I can automate them with this relay? Thank you for your videos!!
I don't know your exact situation, but it sounds like it! There's a mode for motors
Hey guys - at 19:58 - The statement is missing from the video. I had made a mistake with what I said. Black goes into L/Live/Hot and White goes into Neutral here in North America.
Hello, is there any way how to connect 3 physical switches for one light (as one switch is by doors and 2 others by beds) with relay module (one or more) so i still can use those switches so as using app to turn lights on and off, thanks
You'd need to talk to an electrician. It would depend on how you want to control them (and ratings). But I would suggest you just get 2 relays and then you absolutely will!
First of all thanks for this video . I am not sure if you mention this at any point or i missed it , but as I am aiming to install these modules behind many of my traditional switches which are traditionally dimmable , does this offer dimming ? If not , can a workaround happen somehow to dim the lights from my phone? Neither am I an electrician nor do I know much about circuits I'm just gonna tell this to my electrician if you could help !
Without knowing your system, I'd have a hard time helping much. I think ask your electrician but it SOUNDS like you're going to be fine. The relay will power on the circuit and then the dimmer will deal with the rest.
The T2 does not do dimming on its own though. That's not possible. It's an on/off device only
Hi, I'm not an electrician and I wanted to ask you if I would like to use the aqara t2 for a switch with 3 "claps", two of them to manage two different lights. Each with its own light, left to left and right to right, and the middle "click" to access an automation in this aqara application .
Sure! I'm confused when you say claps, but you can have any third button or switch be the control for an automation with Aqara. The t2 likely wouldn't be wired in to that 3rd switch or button. Maybe just get a button from aqara?
Do these aqara relays remember its state if power goes off and returns. Eg its off at night and goes out and on will they remain off?
I believe the setting has three different options on it. That's somewhere later in the video if you want to find it, but it can remember the last date it had when the power went out
I have a motion detector and would like the Aqara T2 to recognize when the motion detector sends power to S1. Is the voltage too high because I am not coming from the COM port? The output from motion detector is up to 230 Volt.
As I think about this, it feels like you have something wired wrong. The Motion Detector can act as a switch, since it's line side voltage. So maybe chat with Aqara support to make sure you've got this wired up right and that it can handle your sensor.
I believe the COM port and the lower half are exposed to line side voltage, so I don't think it's a problem with voltage.
Thank you for your answer. So is full watts and amps coming through the COM port? I had assumed that only little power comes through there
@@Fadirko voltage only I think. Amps I believe is based on the device attached. I don't have the diagram for the internals. Hence the chat with Aqara recommendation ;)
I have two garage doors. Is it possible to use one T2 for both doors?
You absolutely can. That's one of the best things about this relay
Thanks for demystifying these. I always wondered about them. The ratings thing is still overwhelming enough for me to avoid using these for now though. I'm no stranger to electrical; I wired our basement. But just having to account for wire gauge, heat, amps, watts, it's just too confusing.
And that's fair Brad! Do what works for you
Do you think this could be used to control Town & Country gas fireplaces?
I unfortunately can't tell you about that brand specifically. But most fireplaces should be workable with the dual relay option and some of the settings that let you do pulse, etc..
Hi Brian. This vid was very informative. Can I connect this to a siren, so that I can use it with the aqara hub and it's smart button to create a panic button situation?
Yep! It'll depend on the siren for how you connect it, but should be doable.
Thanks a lot@@AutomateYourLife
EXTREMELY well done. Thank you!!!!!!
Thank you!
How would this work using a Shelly 2pm plus? It seems very similar to me, but there's no com connection. I'm trying to tie the Shelly into a pull chain fan/light on a single wall switch. I want to keep the light tied into the wall switch via the relay circuit 1, but keep the fan on circuit 2 with the wireless switch only. I get as far as tying the SW1 on the relay to L1 on the wall switch, but without a com connection I can't figure out what to tie to L on the switch. Also, I only have N at the fixture in my house, not the switch. Also will not take the internet's word alone before messing with my home wiring, but a little stuck here.
I'm sure the Hook Up has a good video on that relay. I believe Shelly's relays also have wiring diagrams so that you're sure before you do this!
@@AutomateYourLife Thanks! I'd already looked at Rob's Shelly videos and hadn't found one that really got into the 2. But in searching again, The Algorithm was kind and showed me one on the 2.5 from a different UA-camr. Seems solid and lines up with what I learned from other sources. Adding the link here in case anyone else has the same type of question. ua-cam.com/video/4WwbgCClpXA/v-deo.htmlsi=wQ5vbSmZL4CvUlaK
I am looking for a small, thin smart relay switch that will work with 12v DC LED lights, any suggestions?
I was looking at a Lutron ELV switch for that use case I think
I stil have a question sir, so if i get the Aqara switch without neutral. After clicking the switch physical will the switch tell me that light is on or not on the phone? or will this only happen when I have the relay one or with neutral. I hope you get my question
I think you're trying to combine this relay with an Aqara smart switch. I don't think you can do that. This relay requires a neutral. The Switch does not. I don't know that you should (or even could) wire this up.
@@AutomateYourLife I think my explanations is not correct. I want to know with which aqara product will I get a relay system? So that when someone press the switch my phone will also know that the switch is on?
I've got one question. What does it happens when I have 2 lamps commanded by 2 different deviators each, in 2 separated boxes. Example, in my dining room I have two entrances and there are two lamps. I can command these 2 lamps from each of the accesses. I want to use the Aqara's T2 in order to get command the lights from my phone.
BTW, good job, thanks for your detailed explanations
Hey Giuseppe, I'd love to help you here but the terms you're using are very different to what I'm used to.
But I think if I'm understanding you correctly, you have two separate switches with two separate runs to lamps. If that's the case, I'd just suggest you get two relays. Maybe just a single relay for each switch instead of a dual 😃
You'd be coming across with wires if you're using one relay. It's not going to be worth it vs the cost of a second relay
@@AutomateYourLife Yes, you're right, I meant a "deviator" meaning a switch in 2 different locations that tunrs on/off the same lamp.
Does the Aqara T2 support dimming?
No
Thanks for the detailed video. Can we use this T2 relay for 2-way or 3-way(controlling 1 light with 2 switches?
Yep! I didn't build a diagram for that though.
Great video! Could you do one explaining how to wire up this relay in a 2-way switch system? 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Aqara says it’s possible but won’t provide a diagram!
I thought that was in this video. :)
It is? Sorry! I watched it again and couldn’t figure it out. 😅 Really noob with wiring here.
I thought the diagram you did was for two lights and two switches. How would that work for a single light connected to a set of two-way switches? One switch upstairs and one downstairs. Looking to install the relay next to the downstairs switch.
Could this pair with a smart bulb In a way that the bulb always have power but the switch in the wall tells the light bulb to turn on or off?
Relays take away power just like a switch. So no, sorry
can I install the relay near the garage door switch? I was wondering if it can control two garage doors.
Good question. You can, but think about powering the relay!
Your diagram would be a bit different obviously, as you'd have the extra wiring happening at the switch.
Hello, great video!
I was looking to control a small DC motor or 110V moteur with Aqara orMeross relays, or 2 homekit switches + scene/automation for duration or meross garage door opener.
Any idea or suggestion for the best way to automate a motor (front/reverse/stop) in homekit?
Thanks for the suggestion
This relay (the T2) does have reversible motor control in it. I didn't talk about that in this video cause it isn't a common use case, but you can use this with HomeKit through Aqara's normal integration methods or the Matter in their M2/M1S/E1 Hubs
@@AutomateYourLife thanks for your reply ! I am just curious about triggers to stop the motor / relay. What would you suggest ? Timer or trigger? This why I was interested in the garage opener from Meross
Great video but I'm left wondering if we should be worried by the number of fires you've seen?
🤣🤣🤣
At my old job, we regularly burned down buildings and equipment. It was spectacular to see, and taught me a lot about electrical gear!
But yeah, I’d be a little worried 😉
I dunno - maybe seeing that many fires adds credibility. I never met a really good shop teacher with all 10 fingers intact. Maybe electrical fires are how you level up in this field. 🙂
@TdotRob you made me laugh really hard with that one
Hi there. I'm struggling to find something that could sense a device has powered on and then at this moment, turn a couple of other devices on. I'd like for the opposite to be true ie. Original device powered off means the couple of other devices turn off. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm lost right now.
You'd be able to do that with most relays, I think. It all depends on if you mean the device itself turns off, or if you mean you turn it off through the relay.
Just about any relay does the latter. Otherwise you likely need a smart plug with energy monitoring
Can you control the t2 with the wireless h1 switch?
Sadly I can't tell you that.
You earned a sub; this is what I'm looking for, a primarily complete guide on using a smart relay. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
I like the garage door option, but I still don't understand if that is better that the garage door opener app. I would like to geomap so I don't have to push any buttons and it just opens when I am in the vicinity.
I think it depends on whether or not you find the Aqara app (or HomeKit) app good at recognizing you're home. It also depends more on if your phone is reporting GPS location back to those services often enough
Hi Brian I am looking to do something unusual and hope you can assist - I have a dumb light outside my patio that I want to make smart but I also want to power a set of string lights also.
I have bought an Aqara dual relay module T 2 and wanted to use the cable to the existing light and make it smart but use the second relay to power and control the string lights
I am planning to put the relay in an I p rated weather proof box but having watched this video I am uncertain how to do the wiring
Any help appreciated
If the t2 relay is properly wired to a manual, 3 speed wall fan, that plugs into an outlet, will the smart app be able to control the speeds?
The smart app is just going to show it as two separate controls. You would have to name them appropriately
Will one of the controls be on/off and the other control would be fan speed level 1, 2 or 3 or perhaps, the second control would simply be a slider that allows me to increase the fan speed?
@cartermw two switch buttons is what you get!
Can this relay be switch on/off with an aqara temperature sensor via the hub? Let's if below 15C switch on, if over 20C switch off.
Yes! Absolutely!
Seems like I have a problem. My switch life is also the life of an outlet. I don’t have enough wires to connect both seperate. Is it safe to connect life to com? I mean the direct 230V life? Fun fact if I disconnect and connect the load side of the switch without touching it it turns on and of. It’s one of the switches with a light inside. Maybe it’s never 100% off and that’s why it’s not working for me 🤔
Noooo I don't think you can do what you're doing here. Live to com isn't good either.
Maybe check in with Aqara themselves. The device is rated to handle lots but I don't think this is going to work
Great video!!! I used one to control 2 ceiling light from switches and it works great…I’d like to use it also as roller shutter controller but unfortunately seems that is still not supported in the Aqara app (at least not the percentage, only open or close). I hope Aqara will add this feature in the future, maybe with home assistant?
I don't know on that one! I think hardware wise it's a little stuck.
Hi from India 🇮🇳 can I use this t2 relay with existing smart fan to make it work with Apple home kit
It already works with google home but I wanna control via HomeKit
If you have an Aqara hub that should be shareable to Homekit
Going to add photocell to an input on dual T2 relay can this be done?
Check the specs but it's possible to use it just like the switch in this circuit. It'll all depend on the photocell.
Remember those switch contacts are exposed to whatever's on the line side of the relay....
Excellent video, thanks.
Thank you!
Is it ok if my ceiling neutral go in T2 N and my light neural go in T2 N at the same time? Or only ceiling neutral is allow to be in T2 N?
You should ask an electrician about this. :) They need to have a look. I can't answer your specific situation.
@@AutomateYourLife Problem solved and working! 😃. Thru ur videos i managed to find a way to solve my circuit issue. Thanks.
@@JustACatLover I'm glad! I just got to be careful giving direct advice like that!
@@AutomateYourLife no worries bro. Totally understand. I do the same too with my cat channel.
Can I add it to homekit without a hub?
Nope
Thank you for this, I could not figure out where the existing switch wires for Line and Load were supposed to go between S1, S2, COM
Hi Again; after installing 7 Aqara relays, the delay between the physical switches and the lights is killing me. It generates a lot of confusion in my family, so they think the lights do not work correctly. Can we solve this in any way? I was thinking about changing the E1 hub to M2 .... but I think this will not solve anything.
Weird. I'm not sure what's going on. Perhaps the loading is causing additional time? If you watch when I do it, there IS a slight delay but I'm surprised to hear anyone's struggling with that delay. So honestly, I don't know what's going on for you
@@AutomateYourLifeI have just a test with Fibaro single switch and zero delays. So I think I am going to migrate to it. Thanks for your comments!!!!!
Ho again, finally I got the new brand sonoff R4M and they are faster than aqara. They are also very small.
Gr8 video , I tried to add this device to my SmartThings hub , but only one relay is working , I think there is no edge driver to add child relay.
You’ll see the edge driver update right away. I now have 2
Good news I can eliminate the e1 hub
Well wired it as this input 1 is a garage door input with a garage connect on the floor. This is designed for dc 10vdc to 24vdc but have 120vac (very little current for the input. Wired com to input 1. Input 2 is photocell which is 120vac with 120vac output for a light controller. I wired this to 120vac and used red light control wire to input 2.
So I know when it’s dark and when door is open.
MyQ issue since they don’t wish to send me when door is open or closed. Is why I started with a dual T2 relay.
Nice!
Do you know if it’s possible to use an Aqara T2 relay as a dry contact switch on one channel and a wet contact switch on the second channel? I’d like to use one to control my gas fireplace; dry for the flame control and wet for the blower.
Sadly, I don't believe you'll be able to do that. I can't see a way. You'd likely end up with a second relay anyways, so...I think just buy 2 fit for purpose relays
Thank you so much for the video! Its the most detailed and clear one on Aqara T2 by far. Just a question, as we need to connect the red wire from LIN to LOUT to bring the line power to the other side of the relay, why would it be named LIN (shouldn't it be line out as electricity flow out from there)? And shouldn't LOUT be LIN since you are bringing the line voltage into the L1 and L2 side? Also can you also not connect the line from utility to LOUT directly (and L to power the T2) and skip the connection between LIN and LOUT? Since we need to connect neutral from utility to both the T2 neutral and L1/L2 neutral (ie. at light bulb) anyway, so why not connect the line power to LOUT directly as well? Seems like LIN is not needed?
Hey! Thanks 😃
Lin and lout are jumpered out for most of the ways you'll use this in your home! However, there are a few cases where you'll need it! I believe...it was the garage where I removed it in this video. Sorry, been a while ;)
Thanks, can you share a video showing how to installa two way relay? Im having issues making two switches to turn on one single light
I don't understand the question actually! A 2 way light would be a single pole switch, which I showed here
@@AutomateYourLife I'm not sure if I understand myself neither, I have two conmutable switch's that turn on one single bulb but I'm not been able to follow the instructions, I did but then the physical switches stopped working 😢
Great video! I'd love to see how to use this to turn on and off a gas fireplace. :)
That's really going to depend on the fireplace! Tough one to show
You said this needs a agara hub, just curious if a homey hub could serve as the hum?
Can’t tell ya yet, probably though
How to connect a motor for roller shutter with is open/close switch?
Sorry...I didn't address that one. I believe they have some diagrams on their documentation for you though :)
I would really like to see how you use wired contact sensor with the garage opener. Would that be to cut the signal in case of non pulse device?
You could also send another pulse to pause the garage movement right?
@@AutomateYourLife I used to have just one SmartThings multisensor on my garage door but two magnets. With this I made an automation that turned lights green when opening, and red when closing, (xyz status). Unfortunantly SmartThings dont offer automation with xyz status as condition. Do you have any solution for this?
can this be used with hue bulbs? So that they wont keep resetting?
You can use a relay with a standard switch absolutely. Keep in mind the relay kills power though, so you’d be taking away your smart features until you turned on the relay and then gave the bulbs a few seconds to reconnect
The short answer is no! Your smart bulbs would lose power and thus become unresponsive to any controls.
The main purpose of a smart relay is to control a non-smart item.
thank you@@mikef3324
Great video. Good work man.
Appreciate it!
In my testing, a button off the S1/COM1 only works with 120V AC power and does not work on 24V DC power. My use case had to have a button on 24V DC so hopefully that is something that works in the future.
Nope, you're correct.
Bond has an actual fan controller that goes in the canopy and can do all of this PLUS control the fan speed. It comes built in to some fans, but you can buy it. Can't remember if it's HD or Lowe's that sell them. And it's not their hub that you see advertised that works like the fan remotes by replicating their RF. I think Inovelli is also coming out with one.
Bonus in that their shaped to fit in tight ceiling fan housings like regular fan controllers.
Cool!
Convert to wireless switch would be great for a Porchlight/Security camera combination that you don't want people switching off the camera to turn off the porch light!
For 2 pins outlets, be very careful with the last setup and which is neutral and live in your power outlet. You can easily switch the neutral with live just by how you plug in your socket in the outlet. Things can go wrong, especially if you use the com ports.
Thank you!
Do you know of any comparable Z-Wave relays? Or something that's Z-Wave that can control a portable 110 v Heater?
Depending on the type of heater (and be very careful with that…things explode), you could look at the zen51 from Zooz
This is a great tutorial , 🤩 thank you bro
My pleasure 😊
In Australia it would be illegal not to use an electrician for installation. We have this so that a standard and safety is paramount.
This is unusual in most countries, but we use lethal 240V-10A everywhere.
You poor Aussies Michael. Giant spiders AND electricians in your home 😳
@@AutomateYourLife I prefer to have a house that won't kill me before the snakes, spiders, crocodiles and sharks do.
Here in the UK all the public are allowed to do is change a switch or socket, any wiring change or change to a circuit has to have a works certificate from the electrician. Here in the UK portable appliances (TV, Kettle, washing machines etc) have a plug with a fuse in it (13A, 10A, 7A, 5A, 3A, 2A, 1A), the plug goes into the wall socket which has a 32A MCB protecting the ring circuit (starts at the breaker goes round to all the sockets and then back to the breaker, the fuse / mcb it there to protect the cable not the appliance. 240v / 110v doesnt matter if you get a fault current running through you then you are in trouble. Now we have fault detection like - earth leakage protection. surge protection, overload protection, arc detectors, these were introduced due to the amount of electrical fires the firebrigade were dealing with here in the UK. It has changed so much since I went to college on the late 80's (1980's that is).
What were you doing that you seen 100s of fires ?
Electrical engineering in the oil industry. Might as well have been a fire investigator 🤣
If the garage door does not operate by the simple pulse connection, then no way to use this relay to control the door? One of mine works but the other doesn't.
Yes you can. I tried to explain the pulse connection vs holding the signal on/off. Also try extending the pulse width.
Oh, I didn't know the purpose of it. Thanks!
@@AutomateYourLife Just for your information, I bought T2 and tested it on my garage door (Chamberlain with yellow learning button), Unfortunately, none of the options in the T2 relay works for my case. I'm just thinking of soldering wire from T2 to the wall button.
Great VIdeo! Can't seem to find it for purchase yet. Want to automate my gas fireplace think this should work well and much smaller than the zwave one I was looking at from Zooz.
Hey Tyler, thanks for watching. It should work great for that application. We’re the links below not working for ya? Might be where you’re at.
@@AutomateYourLife Thanks for responding :)... I'm from Beaumont so just down the road ;) . The link is working sorry head in butt moment.
😃😃
I think you over complicated it. A relay is basically a switch that controls another switch but internally, before anything happens. It has 2 states on the exit, NO or NC normally open or normally closed and these states are operated by the relay receiving or not some electricity. The pulse mode is very specific mainly to garage door openers. The fact this ones controls 2 units as well as AC and DC outputs just make it more versatile, but also more dangerous because of the risks of sending some AC to DC things. Furthermore, it is a huge piece of relay ! Theres no way to hide this inside a box without a lot of risks in the wall as you said. But hey great video, as always.
Size matters, eh Philippe? :)
Lol 😂
What's the problem or sending ac to this module?
Like this is more safe, if it is a DC really, it may burn when you connect AC but not this one
In the case of this relay, I think the biggest risk is that you could be putting in a full AC home connection in and then connecting a sensor that isn’t ready for that. That would be the biggest concern I would have, and that would only happen on the S1/2/com side of things.
Someone could also conceivably use the jumper cable and hit their load device with the wrong voltage and current as well so you have to watch out for that too
So the resistive load of the relay is 2.5KW @ 250v (So in the UK it would be 2.4KW), But the LED, Compact Fluorescent, and Linear Fluorescent tube are only rated to 1A due to these being inductive loads. When trying to work out your Wattage for you country you need to Voltage (for your country) X Current rating of relay = Wattage you can safely use.
Please please please if you are not sure about this or how it works then do not attempt this. In the electrical game we have a saying “a little bit of electrical knowledge is dangerous” and I have seen this saying proved right time and time again.
This is the problem with these types of videos, people see this done and think I can do that and end up wiring Lin to the NO contact and when it switches flash bang it is cream crackered. I know @automateyourlife is trying to be helpful but don’t show people how to wire these things up. Let them talk to an electrician. Love the relay idea but the quality of the relay is my biggest gripe. 👍🏻👍🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻😉😉👌🏻👌🏻
This thing looks HUGE though! I'm not sure it's gonna fit in my in-wall boxes alongside all the other stuff that needs to go in there...
This specific relay is big for sure! There are many relays out there :)
Great tutorial, Brian. Thanks! I have been looking at these for switches and misunderstood how the wall switch and relay interact. Now that you demoed it, especially the comment and visual that the wall switch emulates a 3-way setup, it makes sense to me.
I have a question now about "wireless switch" mode, which I think you may have misunderstood since you showed it as functionally equivalent to disabling the switch entirely.
Here's my alternate theory and maybe if I'm right you will do another video showing it. I suspect that in either mode, the relay exposes the load to the home automation system which we might label as "porch light" or some such. But it seems to me that enabling wireless switch would expose the switch as a distinct device, separate from the load.
So, for example, now we have "porch light" and "porch light switch" exposed in the hub as separately controllable devices. If true, the obvious next step is to define an automation to connect them such that hitting the switch operates the light, or possibly operates both S1 and S2 loads from a single switch.
If I'm correct, the switch in wireless mode functions as it did when dumb - up is on, down is off. This may be more intuitive (i.e. higher spouse approval factor) than acting like a 3-way in a use case where there is no second physical switch. The additional benefit of this is the ability to tie in other loads so we might end up with a load device called "porch light" and a switch device we label "Front outdoor lights" that operates floods, landscape lights, the porch light, and (seasonally) holiday decorations based on defined automations to tie it all together.
Am I close on this or is this just wishful thinking? Because I really like it and my use case needs S1 & S2, but I'm not going to the trouble of expanding the junction box if wireless switch mode doesn't expose the switch(es) separate from the loads. Would be really cool to dive deeper into the wireless mode in a follow-up. Thanks again!
Hey T.Rob! Thanks for watching and the kudos. Sadly for you (and great for me), I don’t think I misunderstood Wireless Switch mode.
I say that because we had a technical review with the engineers at Aqara before this went out. It was done specifically for that reason…so we had the technicalities right.
Wireless Switch mode as I understand it is going to be more for those times when you want to eliminate a switch or more often for a sensor you want to connect (garage door example comes to mind).
I do think there’s potentially an opportunity to wire in a smart switch to do this same thing, fyi
Thanks for the reply, @@AutomateYourLife. I guess I was looking for a use case that makes sense there. If the wall switch is connected to the device and the app is set to Disable Mode, the wall switch might as well not be present. Similarly, setting Wireless Mode also functionally disabled the switch, or at least that's what it looked like in the video. Any sensor would, as I understand it, need to present on/off states because the device senses continuity not voltage. That would mean sensor use cases are same as switch use cases, even the garage door sensor. Coding and testing costs money so nobody codes different modes that have no functional difference. Which means there's still some difference between Disable and Wireless mode I'm just not seeing.
Unfortunately, their online manual only covers installation and not the different behaviors in the app. It does have a diagram (first one) in which the external switch replaces the jumper and the user is switching between wet and dry mode. This wasn't covered in the video and I don't quite understand the expected behavior. Now I'm wondering if maybe that configuration is where Wireless mode becomes useful?
End of the day, I might need to set up a test bench similar to yours and just play around with it. I took advantage of Big Deal Day, or whatever Amazon calls this one, to pick up my first Aquara hub and a couple of FP2 devices. Maybe I'll go back and grab one of these too.
@@AutomateYourLife I'm surpised that is the conclusion you came to after reviewing with the engineers. Wireless switch mode as I understand it just means that the switch or switches that you attach to the control terminals S1 and S2 can just become an independent switch devices uncoupled from the relay operation of L1 and L2. Such a switch can be used to trigger an automation or a scene just like any other independent smart switch or button. And as your experiment demonstrated, the switch operation in this mode no longer affects the L1 and L2 behavior naturally.
Here's a section from another review that covers this
ua-cam.com/video/ToJHXnb9BR8/v-deo.html
Yeah OK, so I'm seeing what's being said here now. So you can drive an automation with the S1 or S2 contacts for something else in your home. So it does look like some of what TDotRob is asking for is possible through the automation engine in Aqara's app.
I think maybe Aqara just felt like this was enough of a guide...and so did I. But that's where these things are different
Thanks
This prz connected to a physical switch malfunctions . Large, expensive and malfunctioning
TWO THINGS FROM JUST 14 MINUTES IN, i always use color coded heat shink.
Secondly at 14 minutes in, WHY does that relay show all [- ] neg above them, except for what you said was ''N'' it has the [+] above it?
So I asked Aqara about that. They said their was a specific code requirement in a country that made them do this. Good question and keen eye catching that.
And yes! Color coded heat shrink is great
I'm soooo waiting for a smart relay that supports Thread... I would put that module inside the wall behind every switch at my house.
I bet we'll get a few this year!
But it use the Zegbee module? Also the T1? Is better have a switch with WiFi ora Zegbee protocol?
The t2 uses zigbee
Black is definitely the "live" conductor not the white one 19:59
I mixed it up once then…sorry and thanks!
I just watched it. I don't know how I said that wrong. Sorry, I've placed a pinned comment and we'll look at reposting the video.
Sadly not compatible with Philips Hue
Thorough, tah!
😃👍
I’d suggest not using pencils on your diagrams. There isn’t enough contrast between #2 pencil lead and white paper. Black pencil lead or sharpies would make it much easier to see. Great video
Yeahhh, but then I'd spend hours getting it right ;)
@@AutomateYourLifeerasable pens exist too!
Consider an Ebony pencil from an art or office supply store.
Alright … I’ll post the dumb question. I can’t get this thing to power on. I’ve tried three different 12v power supply’s and two different relays. Nothing. Never make it to setup. Now what?
There are no dumb questions with relays.
I don't know if there's something off with your 12V power supplies. Sounds like something is off with that. Maybe try making the cable I make at: 18:53 - Power Up a Smart Relay Easily With This.
My man finish the whole video still have no idea how it works😂
lol sorry...failure!
I can't help but see you as Otis (Chicago fire) without a moustache now.
Who, whatnow? ;)
While you mentioned the caveats a number of time, I dont think this product is for North America (or EU/UK). And definately not for beginners. It is only 10A and all NA circuit breakers are 15/20A. The fail point becomes the relay on a circuit short. Plus this relay module is too beefy to fit in a NA single gang box without impacting switches, outlets and connectors. I don't see a UL or ETL certification. Both Aqara and Sonoff need to rethink their solution for NA and EU. Shelly does it right (UL versions). Love Aqara sensors but as a EE, this is a risky solution. Most electricians probably had a heart attack. Don't burn your house down.
Yeah I personally think this relay fits more in the garage or in multi gang outlets personally. It’s footprint is large!
@@AutomateYourLife Brian, just some good practices on wiring - putting wired on clockwise, backplating, etc. a great UA-cam video be Scott at Everyday Home Repairs - ua-cam.com/video/CsiK2aqzcqQ/v-deo.html (#1 Best Video for DIY Electrical Outlet Basics). Just so you don't give all the electricians heart-attacks!!!
This relay is not rated to power electric resistance heating. Look at the max amp rating for each leg and your load rating
✅
You sound like Carl Sagan.
I'd take that any day of the week
Such a simple topic making confusing 😢 . Why 1 hour video . Man it’s just 10 minute sufficient
Timecodes
Who uses “cable” to describe a “conductor” or “wire”. These relays have to be installed in a box and are too big for a single gang box per the NEC.
Regular people. Almost everyone not an electrician.