Just what I needed to see. Very well explained. I never thought of adding extra wood strips to the drawers, that is genius. I have this tricky, handmade, not square, old Japanese ironing / sewing cabinet I am restoring and it badly needs drawers. Mounting tiny glides to this fragile piece is a labor of love! Not just one but two cabinets! Each one needs 4-5 drawers. I completely restored them, stripped, sanded, re-varnished, hardware added, and now drawers. Its looking great though! So nice to bring old things back to life. I feel like the God of Furniture restoration, breathing new life into them.
This is exactly the video I needed to see for my kitchen. I didn't know what to google to find this, and thank goodness I found it! I am saving this for when I can start refacing and rehardwaring our 1970s cabinets and can finally fix these crazy wobbly drawers!
This is a wonderful tutorial. I've been dealing with the same drawers for 30 years. You either need to come to my house and do this or I'll just have to redo my kitchen.
Awesome. The honey do lists are amazing. You get to do woodworking and expand your knowledge all while checking this off the list and making the wife happy. That’s a win win for you
Thanks for this video! I have cabinets from the 70s. And while they were built beautifully with nice hardwood, the top drawers are made of plastic. They have a center rail at the top that the drawer hangs from. And I guess I shouldn’t complain, since they’ve lasted nearly 50 years. But it’s time to rebuild them, and this video is pretty much exactly the scenario that I have to deal with. Thanks for the help, from one pawpaw to another!
very helpful video. In my case, the drawers width is the same size as the opening, in your video at the end you added wood on the sides of the drawer to increase the width, what should i do in my case?
For most f the drawer rollers on the market that are side mounted you need .5” spacing on each side of the drawer. You may be able to find bottom mounted slides that will work
As others who committed, I also dont have enough room. I see you suggested under mount slides. What should I keep in mind when selecting the slides and any tips on installing? Or do you have a video already on this problem you can link?
Excellent video. My drawers are actually too wide. I only have a total of 3/8" width. I need 1" to install the new drawer rollers. This is because my drawers are older and have a center guide rather than existing rollers. How do I handle this problem? Make the openings wider? Or make the width of the new 3" wood rails wider? Thanks
Love to learn from someone’s experience. Thanks for the video. If I may, if you have paint stir sticks those are 1/8 inch thick. I’ve checked the ones i got from Lowe’s, HD and Dunn Edwards with calipers and they were dead on 1/8. I used them to shim up a drawer cut mistake I made, that how I know.
I have opposite problem. drawer does not have enough space to make up that 1" needed on each side to accomodate the roller slide. Any suggesions for that one?
Why is one of the sides of the drawer roller different then the other? I have those same rollers and one side is more curved to catch the wheel. Please help. Thanks
@@PawPawsWorkShop the right one doesn't have a curved grasping the wheel? I heard it's so the wheel doesn't fall out and the other side is open. Weird I bought 2 sets and they are both like that
I have a question I have the same exact bottom rollers but they catch halfway and my drawer won't close. Can I put my screws all the way towards the back. They are flush but they keep sticking where the screws supposed to go. Can u help me?
I will thank you they are pretty small. This is the first time I have ever had this trouble. But I will not put them all the way back. Thank you! I will also subscribe to your channel.
I'm replacing drawer slides on older cabinets with soft close slides (rear bracket mount) and the slides rubbed a grove down both sides of the drawer after install. Is there a correct way to solve my clearance issue? The slides require a 1/2" on each side, I have that when measuring the inside of the face frame, but the outer part of the slides still rub the drawer box making it hard to close/operate. Should I plane the drawer sides a little? Can I sand the inside of the face frame on each side to gain 1/16" for more clearance?
Usually just sand away the groove or depending on the material a little sanding on each side to equal the depth of the groove should solve the problem.
Please show this. I am using old drawers (dil got new drawers and doors )that have these rollers so making the face plate to accommodate the drawers. What you showed was great. I needed to know the 16 th inch from front. And the 3/4 in rail but attaching the inside one did you put a cleat at the back to attach the 3/4 board and roller ? Last time I made cupboards was 15 years ago and I’m a 71 yo lady with turn rotators. Dumb idea ! But definitely cheaper. I also have to make new drawer fronts. These are melamine.
Measure the side of the drawer from the front to the back. Buy the drawer slide that is the closest to the length of the drawer without going longer than the drawer.
These drawer slides are horrible. The screw head might jam on the roller. If the weight is too heavy, the rollers slide instead of rolling so it eats away and becomes difficult to push/pull.
Mine is 70s and don’t have any rollers at all. The wood just slides and scrapes against each other. I can redo this and make it look great on the outside but ima have to call a cabinet guy to fix this bs first.
The drawer rollers were attached to the sides only with three screws. There is nothing on the back. This is an easy project, just follow simple steps. Thank you for the question
why do all that work and put cheap $2.00 hardware back in? why not upgrade to real ball bearing style drawer slides with soft close etc...? especially with the weight of most kitchen drawers being over full with silverware and utensils. I think I would have gone the extra mile and spent the money for good quality slides.
Just what I needed to see. Very well explained. I never thought of adding extra wood strips to the drawers, that is genius. I have this tricky, handmade, not square, old Japanese ironing / sewing cabinet I am restoring and it badly needs drawers. Mounting tiny glides to this fragile piece is a labor of love! Not just one but two cabinets! Each one needs 4-5 drawers. I completely restored them, stripped, sanded, re-varnished, hardware added, and now drawers. Its looking great though! So nice to bring old things back to life. I feel like the God of Furniture restoration, breathing new life into them.
Wow, that sounds like a great project. Glad I could help
This is exactly the video I needed to see for my kitchen. I didn't know what to google to find this, and thank goodness I found it! I am saving this for when I can start refacing and rehardwaring our 1970s cabinets and can finally fix these crazy wobbly drawers!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you so very much.
This is a wonderful tutorial. I've been dealing with the same drawers for 30 years. You either need to come to my house and do this or I'll just have to redo my kitchen.
Sounds like you have quite the project ahead of you. Thank you very much for watching my videos
I am going to have to watch this video a few times tomorrow. Lucky me, my wife has instructed me to fix our 1980s kitchen drawers.
Awesome. The honey do lists are amazing. You get to do woodworking and expand your knowledge all while checking this off the list and making the wife happy. That’s a win win for you
Thanks for this video! I have cabinets from the 70s. And while they were built beautifully with nice hardwood, the top drawers are made of plastic. They have a center rail at the top that the drawer hangs from. And I guess I shouldn’t complain, since they’ve lasted nearly 50 years. But it’s time to rebuild them, and this video is pretty much exactly the scenario that I have to deal with. Thanks for the help, from one pawpaw to another!
Glad it was helpful! Awesome!
Thank you@@PawPawsWorkShop
great video helped me alot with my 1960 cabinets that needed alot of work
Glad it helped! That’s awesome. Thanks for watching
Thank you😭 I was arguing with to the side of the guides. I’ll place the extra wood to the drawers. Thank you X a million 🥳
You're very welcome
Thanks for the video! This maybe the solution to upgrade my slides to a stronger soft close set
Glad to help
Thanks you very mush! This video vas very helpful and will save me time and frustration.
You're welcome! I'm glad that it helped you.
Amazing and thank you for uploading this
My pleasure!
A perfect video for the "I'm gonna go ahead and..." drinking game. 😁
Not the usual for sure. Thank you
a nice work father paw , i am new suber from algeria in north africa
Thank you very much and thank you for subscribing. Wow, North Africa. What a wonderful place.
@@PawPawsWorkShop good evening father paw i am happy for ansewering my comments are you ok today
Great job
Thank you very much
very helpful video. In my case, the drawers width is the same size as the opening, in your video at the end you added wood on the sides of the drawer to increase the width, what should i do in my case?
For most f the drawer rollers on the market that are side mounted you need .5” spacing on each side of the drawer. You may be able to find bottom mounted slides that will work
As others who committed, I also dont have enough room. I see you suggested under mount slides. What should I keep in mind when selecting the slides and any tips on installing? Or do you have a video already on this problem you can link?
Excellent video. My drawers are actually too wide. I only have a total of 3/8" width. I need 1" to install the new drawer rollers. This is because my drawers are older and have a center guide rather than existing rollers. How do I handle this problem? Make the openings wider? Or make the width of the new 3" wood rails wider? Thanks
Ultimately, you have to decide what is best for you. Making new drawers may not be the best option.
I have the same problem. Is there anyway to get the slides to work with the center guide?
Love to learn from someone’s experience. Thanks for the video. If I may, if you have paint stir sticks those are 1/8 inch thick. I’ve checked the ones i got from Lowe’s, HD and Dunn Edwards with calipers and they were dead on 1/8. I used them to shim up a drawer cut mistake I made, that how I know.
Excellent idea. Thank you for sharing.
I’ll try that. Thank you🙌🏽🤙🏽
I have opposite problem. drawer does not have enough space to make up that 1" needed on each side to accomodate the roller slide. Any suggesions for that one?
Do you have the ability to use under mount drawer slides.
Why is one of the sides of the drawer roller different then the other? I have those same rollers and one side is more curved to catch the wheel. Please help. Thanks
The rollers are a mirror image of each other. The curved portion at the rear is so the drawer will remain closed
@@PawPawsWorkShop the right one doesn't have a curved grasping the wheel? I heard it's so the wheel doesn't fall out and the other side is open. Weird I bought 2 sets and they are both like that
What are those old school brackets called?
I have a question I have the same exact bottom rollers but they catch halfway and my drawer won't close. Can I put my screws all the way towards the back. They are flush but they keep sticking where the screws supposed to go. Can u help me?
Try predrilling the holes and perhaps use a smaller flat head screw. Putting the screws all the way to the back will not support the drawer properly
I will thank you they are pretty small. This is the first time I have ever had this trouble. But I will not put them all the way back. Thank you! I will also subscribe to your channel.
Thank you so much!!!
You're welcome!
I know this video has been posted 4yrs ago. And was wondering if that exact kitchen cabinets doors hinges can be replaced with soft close ones -_-
Yes absolutely you can do that. Thanks for watching
I hope you can make a video someday. I’m new to this kind of stuff and still learning my way. Thank you for replying
I'm replacing drawer slides on older cabinets with soft close slides (rear bracket mount) and the slides rubbed a grove down both sides of the drawer after install. Is there a correct way to solve my clearance issue? The slides require a 1/2" on each side, I have that when measuring the inside of the face frame, but the outer part of the slides still rub the drawer box making it hard to close/operate. Should I plane the drawer sides a little? Can I sand the inside of the face frame on each side to gain 1/16" for more clearance?
Usually just sand away the groove or depending on the material a little sanding on each side to equal the depth of the groove should solve the problem.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks!
You're welcome
Paw Paw's Workshop would this technique also work on kitchen cabinets from the 1950's? I'm really trying to save the original cabinets.
Yes, I see no reason why it would not work.
@@PawPawsWorkShop
Oh, good! I hope I can find someone as talented as you in my city. 🤞
Are you securing the back support piece to the wall or cabinet?
Yes, I am supporting the support piece to the main structure of the cabinet.
@@PawPawsWorkShop awesome thanks for the feedback, ill have to do exactly this to my drawers due to being older cabinets
Please show this. I am using old drawers (dil got new drawers and doors )that have these rollers so making the face plate to accommodate the drawers. What you showed was great. I needed to know the 16 th inch from front. And the 3/4 in rail but attaching the inside one did you put a cleat at the back to attach the 3/4 board and roller ? Last time I made cupboards was 15 years ago and I’m a 71 yo lady with turn rotators. Dumb idea ! But definitely cheaper. I also have to make new drawer fronts. These are melamine.
Another thing I like about your solution is that a little paint on the side of the drawers will make it look like it came that way from the factory.
thank you
You're welcome
Great Video. Thank you. So what was your MOS? ("P-Pop" 11B/11A)
How do you measure?
What part are you wanting to measure?
@@PawPawsWorkShop the glide
Measure the length of the drawer or the depth of the cabinet.
@@PawPawsWorkShop from where to where
Measure the side of the drawer from the front to the back. Buy the drawer slide that is the closest to the length of the drawer without going longer than the drawer.
Hello, how did you release the old drawer to come out?
As you pull the drawer to the open position, it lifts up and out. Different tracks systems will have different release methods.
These drawer slides are horrible. The screw head might jam on the roller. If the weight is too heavy, the rollers slide instead of rolling so it eats away and becomes difficult to push/pull.
Did the customer not want the better ball bearing glides?
No, not for this project
Thank you Paw Paw!
You are so welcome!
Paw Paw’s WorkShop You’re the grandpa I never had but always wanted 💜 stay safe !
Why not install ball bearing drawer sliders instead of rollers? Rollers are so out of date. 😂
Cost is the only reason. This is still a major upgrade for this home
It is a great
Thank you. Glad it helped you
I went to Lowe’s and they didn’t know what CA glue or accelerator was. Can you reexplain?
It is not at Lowes or any big box store. I have a link in the description of my videos for the website and a 15% discount code.
Mine is 70s and don’t have any rollers at all. The wood just slides and scrapes against each other. I can redo this and make it look great on the outside but ima have to call a cabinet guy to fix this bs first.
OK so we are not going to show the whole process ?? what about screwing in the back
The drawer rollers were attached to the sides only with three screws. There is nothing on the back. This is an easy project, just follow simple steps. Thank you for the question
@@PawPawsWorkShop what did you attach the 3 inch board you screwed the roller to on the side and back. ?
Out withe the old in with new old
Yep, big improvement
why do all that work and put cheap $2.00 hardware back in? why not upgrade to real ball bearing style drawer slides with soft close etc...? especially with the weight of most kitchen drawers being over full with silverware and utensils. I think I would have gone the extra mile and spent the money for good quality slides.
It’s more about how rather than the chose of roller-really?
@@PawPawsWorkShop i guess so lol--maybe i am too picky.
I use the expensive rollers on heavy drawers but not on rental property or flips