Done that but it was the carburetor needle put a new one got out somehow it went in the engine third time oh got the third time it was meant to be take a Picture
In my experience as an aircraft mechanic of 18 years, unplugging and reconnecting electrical connectors often fixes high resistance circuits. This high resistance would get worse when hot. Unplugging and plugging connectors cleans corrosion off the electrical pins and restores proper continuity.
I have this issue a lot in my shop, the issue I’ve found is that once the plug wire heats up, the resistance in the plug wire gets so high that the plug cannot spark correctly. The plug wire always visually look fine, and will test fine until heat soaked. I’ve had coils do this aswell, they look visually good, test good, until heat soaked. Hope this helps!
I know you can make a two-stroke run better by weaning out the fuel, but personally, I would like to have a little more fuel for the extra lubrication of the bike, or whatever motor you are running
pretty sure its your pilot causing the low down issue, the staff your messing with alters the mid to top end range. id also mess with the air screw as it sounds like too much air to me so turn it down a tad and bring the idle down
Yeah, 125's definitely like to be in the pipe. They can be boggy when they're not since it's not a whole lot of displacement to provide low end torque. On the CR and YZ 125's I've had, to fix bottom end bog, a big bore kit helps tremendously. My favorite is the Eric Gorr Racing 144cc big bore kit with high compression head. You'll need to run 100+ octane, preferably 110 race, but there is zero hesitation in the bottom end, great power throughout the RPM range with a really nice boost up top. It'll blow the doors off any 250F out there.
Would a 58 mm piston be a 144cc big bore. Also what main jet should I be running. I have a 460 main I believe and it likes to bog in lower gears I also run 40:1 on 93. The spark plug also is pretty black and has some carbon on it.
@@garrxt_8164 That's going to depend on your elevation and air temp. Higher the elevation the smaller the main jet due to air density. That also goes for air temp. Cooler temps require larger main jets, while hotter temps require smaller. Sounds like you are running rich though. Try dropping a jet size and/or moving the needle clip up one notch. Do one change at a time and test. If yours is a Gorr kit you can always give him a call. Eric is super helpful.
Mikuni is your cause, the center jet block gasket usually cracks or expands with ethanol fuel. Take that apart and check it before doing any more jetting.
Some of your problem is the way u drive. You lug the bike at low speed and u short shift, a great way to load the plug up on a 2 stroke. You drive it like it's a 4stroke. Let Chuck ride it, u would see difference. Also check out exhaust valve's for carbon build up, sometime's it's the kind of 2 stroke oil
If the aftermarket pipe allows more exhaust flow, I would think you would need more intake. Why did you need to put smaller jets in it? Keep up the good work, I have bought a couple of non running bikes to fix after learning how to from watching your show.
I have 01 rm 250 with a Fmf fatty and Fmf powercore 2 silencer, Fmf specs say 158 rather than the 162 main and it runs crispier than when I had the 162 in. must be dark magic 2 smokers make Edit: I also keep the needle clip on the second position
@@Castillo250 Nice comment brother. I’d of thought the bikes 1998 - 2001 would run better on the E5 juice. I think a lot of it is correct oil/petrol mix, the right jet in the carb. Ain’t really much to them. I had an 89 RM 125. Went well, but me personally I thought the YZ125’s went a lot quicker ✌🏼
I used to have soft spots for Suzuki, Kawasaki & Honda 2-Stroke Race/Dirt Bikes. nowadays, I love them all. the best bike (factory freak) I ever had was an ‘85 CR80 (I quickly outgrew but still rode & kept it) that would beat new 250s & 125s (in early ‘90s) from Point A to Point B every time. I got my uncle’s former race bike running (‘78 YZ100) when K was 11yrs old & had a legit moto-x track behind our property to learn on. I still have my 1st two KX125s, 2 old Suzuki TS bikes (75cc & 185cc), an ‘89 RM250 (PoS), two old CR250s (‘88 & ‘04) & what will be the newest & nicest restored Yamaha RD350 (twin 2-stroke) waiting & ready to be put back together, after $4k worth of paint, parts & machining. I have a fraction of what Joe has in 2-strokes, so I do know that I’m not as bad as others. I love all bikes, but ripping a hot 2-stroke scratches a specific itch.
First time I’ve watched you for a couple weeks and love the content and channel and how calm you are when stuff is bad and you don’t give up keep it going and hoping to get a dirt bike
I’ve had this issue, I wasn’t told to use a crank case sealer ! I had a buddy and we both did the mains, It was drawing air through the crank cases because they weren’t sealed 🤔
Sounds like a heat saturation problem or something that’s so weird! Would love to see another KDX 200 video sometime! They have really gone up in value recently
young 125 owners like to mess with the exhaust valve bolt and spring. i would set that first before adjusting jets and screws on the carb. that lag time before the power band kicks in is most likely the exhaust valve and spring are off. just a thought. btw your videos cause me to jump on marketplace looking for an old 125 :)
Great explanation on needle height setting. I bet 99.9% of ppl move it down for “rich” then up “Lean”. Brilliant vid My plug is really rich I’ll be moving mine the same as yours UP
Agree I ride a 125 and I'm 41 yrs old . ive loved them since my teen yrs. I also believe you should be able to putt around without it loading up if tuned correctly. And it all comes down to leaning out the needle if your jets are correct. 99% of people move the needle to rich or dont touch it at all.
@@drock5298 Hahahaha. I’m 43yrs old and just got myself a 350 Warrior for cheap. Bought the Boyz some Kayo atv’s last year and needed something cheap for myself just to keep up.
I think it sounded a lot better after your carb adjustments. When you first started the video it sounded choppy the whole time the carb adjustments and jetting fixed the issue.
Check the power valve setting and get a brand new plug in when it’s warm already and do a 1-2-3 pull real quick cut it off and pull plug. It lookeds like it had a bit much timing on the electrode where it was burnt past the bend of electrode
typically when you have molex connectors the pins are a soft aluminum coated copper and as such on an offroad vehicle being exposed to moisture those connecters will oxidize so when you move them and wiggle them around it breaks up that surface oxidation and lowers circuit resistance I deal with it every day with boilers and such
U need to put ur airscrew like 1 turn out because ur idle starts floating. If the bike bogs when u turn full throttle from idle it means that its running too lean so u need to turn ur airscrew in or put bigger pilot jet
Hmmm... interesting. I bought a brand new 2023 YZ85LW last November and it has a somewhat similar problem with the fact that on some rides it'll run completely fine and has great power and then on another day or potentially the same day (I never know when as I can't seem to identify a pattern to it) it will be very boggy and run like absolute crap. Since I bought it brand new and I've always taken very well care of all my bikes, it makes absolute zero sense to me. And its starting to get very frustrating. Whatever it is I've noticed that its effected by the spark plug, carburetor, and fuel. If I change out or clean one of those things, it will temporarily run very well. But its getting to where I have to work on it in some way or another after nearly every ride. I've rode only 4 strokes all my life until I got this bike, are 2 strokes supposed to be like this? Or what could be the problem?
Makuni carbs have issue with the jet block gasket jd jetting sells them for 10 or 20 bucks my 22 husky tc 125 had this issue right out of the box when I bought it brand new. It had no bottom end and lean bog so bad but rev like a mother once on the pipe. Once I swapped the jet block gasket bike pulled from bottom to top no issue. Might be worth a try for a few bucks. Love the channel !
Even though you say it’s a new plug. Check the porcelain insulator with a magnifying glass. I had a plug that ran great until it heated up. It was a new plug also. Drove me nuts. The insulator had a hair line crack. Ran great cold. Soon as it warmed up it ran like crap. Good luck.
The ignition on that bike fires 3 times every time the piston comes to top dead center if you don't run the correct spark plug NGK R6918B-8 the electrode will break off into the cylinder and then to the bottom destroying the motor I've owned several RM,s
I was really surprised that you replace the cases, I assume because of the J-B weld? That was a simple drill and tap process I've seen it done before. In my opinion the cases were still serviceable.
Your getting the bogs because the parts havent mated/seated fully yet. when alluminum or steele heats up it expands. so your top end was getting tighter causing the bogging.
@2vintage have exact bike 2001 rm 125 with fmf. Have stock sized jets like you do the 460 instead of 450. Carb completely ran through fresh gas, oil, plug rugs awesome and idles great. But in gear once you got 3/4 for full throttle it completely bogs out like it’s hitting a rev limiter. Any suggestions??
@@leanneeaton2093too lean. You are burning all of the fuel too early in the stroke. This generates even more heat or EGT. Richer mixtures use the fuel to cool EGTs. Creating a more stable EGT at higher temps.
@@oldjarhead386 plug reading says I am rich...had it running well, put a higher compression head on it and gets hot and blubbers..complete new ignition system with 4 hours on it??
Bro the way you ride makes it sould like there are problems. Stop letting off and shifting so fast. Let the power band finish before you shift. You are shifting before end of power band.
When it comes to any carb engine you can check the same things over and over and still doesn't run how it should then out of nowhere it runs perfectly and I have found it is the tiniest of actions when working in the causes a big difference and the bike sounds amazing and alot better than before and sounds so much happier
Both of my tensioner bolts were unmovable. So much so that i snapped both bolts. I had to take it in and my mechanic managed to extract/drill out the old bolts, put in threaded sleeves and install the new bolts I provided. It was expensive and he's so busy he had my bike over 3 weeks. And she still doesn't run! I'm going through the spark plug currently and will tackle the carb next 2004 rmz 250
That's what sucks about diagnosing a intermittent problem. Since bike runs good when cold everything is going to check out good. Would need to test when problem occurs
Before I watch the entire video what about vapor locking . To me sounds like a fuel problem have you check the gas petcock to check the flow of gas. I just guessing here or check the exhaust at the silencer see if it's getting plugged up
Yep, I had exact same symptoms once and there was a hairline crack across the seam of the top of the coil. Result: Intermittent short across the casing making the motor go sluggish when revving. Easiest way to check: with full blackout darkness in the room, or outside, look for light emitted FROM engine bay.
This reminds me of a snowmobile I had. Kept blowing up. When it got hot, idle would climb a bit. Found out I had an air leak (base gasket I believe). Also had an exhaust leak that blew back on head. Just thoughts
Engine braking when slowing down is not good ‘ when that Throttle is closed your piston is not getting much Lubrication . Pull clutch in and Blip that Throttle!
Hey joe, I recently picked up an rm125 and I have good compression and spark. Just cleaned the carb, and I can’t get the bogging issue to go away.. it won’t open the power valve at all and sing.. if you have any advice.. id be greatly appreciated
Before I watch this video, I'm going with the coil. When the coil heats you The resistors in Lose contact that's why the motor loose power. I raced for 15 years in the 270 micro class and this happens a lot with old coil and caps. 5 ohm caps go bad all the time. I don't know the ohms on your coil Honda 10.4 to 11 Yamaha 13.5 to 14 Remember The higher the ohms are the hot the spark will be
Hey v2, could you do a video of how you get good deals on things or just any tips about it, also could you do a video showing basic tools and steps to perform a rebuild because like me and probably many others watching these videos love to do the stuff but we just need a head start to get going. Thanks✌️ and if there’s anyway, you could do a video like that put a whole list of tools in the description that would be sweet!
As many times as you say that the bike has been blown up. It sounds like bad crank seals high idle after you let off the throttle the bog. Leak down test
Replace only one at a time ,so you will know which part it was., put spark tester in line when hot and check it, they can read correct specs when cold.
When doing diag and checking ohms if the bike is running good cold but not hot you need to check the parts hot. You can use a heat gun to simulate the heat from a ride. Obviously don't cook them but you know. Keep up the great entertainment bro
Yeah, that's how we tested and discovered the pick up coil on my XR650r was failing, it would start cold and run but when you stopped it would not restart until it cooled off.
How's the operation of the power valve in the exhaust port? That can cause headaches with tuning. Jetting turned out to be the culprit, apparently, sounds like it's screaming now! Great video, Joe!
It’s a brave man that removes an “E” clip above grass….
Put a blanket on the ground.
Haha yeah I was nervous removing it
Done that but it was the carburetor needle put a new one got out somehow it went in the engine third time oh got the third time it was meant to be take a Picture
I Too like to live dangerously…..
Brave man indeed
In my experience as an aircraft mechanic of 18 years, unplugging and reconnecting electrical connectors often fixes high resistance circuits. This high resistance would get worse when hot. Unplugging and plugging connectors cleans corrosion off the electrical pins and restores proper continuity.
Avionics life, love doing that
Yea and I always use dielectric grease on all my connections.
My favorite sign off lol
I have this issue a lot in my shop, the issue I’ve found is that once the plug wire heats up, the resistance in the plug wire gets so high that the plug cannot spark correctly. The plug wire always visually look fine, and will test fine until heat soaked. I’ve had coils do this aswell, they look visually good, test good, until heat soaked. Hope this helps!
I know you can make a two-stroke run better by weaning out the fuel, but personally, I would like to have a little more fuel for the extra lubrication of the bike, or whatever motor you are running
pretty sure its your pilot causing the low down issue, the staff your messing with alters the mid to top end range. id also mess with the air screw as it sounds like too much air to me so turn it down a tad and bring the idle down
Yeah, 125's definitely like to be in the pipe. They can be boggy when they're not since it's not a whole lot of displacement to provide low end torque. On the CR and YZ 125's I've had, to fix bottom end bog, a big bore kit helps tremendously. My favorite is the Eric Gorr Racing 144cc big bore kit with high compression head. You'll need to run 100+ octane, preferably 110 race, but there is zero hesitation in the bottom end, great power throughout the RPM range with a really nice boost up top. It'll blow the doors off any 250F out there.
Normally working 125 doesnt bog
Would a 58 mm piston be a 144cc big bore. Also what main jet should I be running. I have a 460 main I believe and it likes to bog in lower gears I also run 40:1 on 93.
The spark plug also is pretty black and has some carbon on it.
@@garrxt_8164 That's going to depend on your elevation and air temp. Higher the elevation the smaller the main jet due to air density. That also goes for air temp. Cooler temps require larger main jets, while hotter temps require smaller. Sounds like you are running rich though. Try dropping a jet size and/or moving the needle clip up one notch. Do one change at a time and test. If yours is a Gorr kit you can always give him a call. Eric is super helpful.
125 running right never bog issues with this bike my old cr would never bog and ring its neck😅
My yz250 has a big bore 😅😅
Can't tell you how many times a nut weld up helped me out with stuck bolts. Good vid man.
Mikuni is your cause, the center jet block gasket usually cracks or expands with ethanol fuel. Take that apart and check it before doing any more jetting.
ive had a similar problem with my rm125 it turned out to be a worn powervalve spring
I'd put some anti-seize in that hole to help it next time. Nice work. Sounded great after that new jet.
Some of your problem is the way u drive. You lug the bike at low speed and u short shift, a great way to load the plug up on a 2 stroke. You drive it like it's a 4stroke. Let Chuck ride it, u would see difference. Also check out exhaust valve's for carbon build up, sometime's it's the kind of 2 stroke oil
It may be a slow tedious method but, you're going about the carb adjusting properly.👍🏼🏁
Of course plug readings are so important.
If the aftermarket pipe allows more exhaust flow, I would think you would need more intake. Why did you need to put smaller jets in it? Keep up the good work, I have bought a couple of non running bikes to fix after learning how to from watching your show.
Especially if he’s using E10 fuel which at the same jetting runs 4-5% leaner.
@@oldjarhead386I recall him saying a while back that he runs ethanol free in all of his bikes.
I have 01 rm 250 with a Fmf fatty and Fmf powercore 2 silencer, Fmf specs say 158 rather than the 162 main and it runs crispier than when I had the 162 in. must be dark magic 2 smokers make
Edit: I also keep the needle clip on the second position
@@Castillo250
Nice comment brother. I’d of thought the bikes 1998 - 2001 would run better on the E5 juice.
I think a lot of it is correct oil/petrol mix, the right jet in the carb. Ain’t really much to them.
I had an 89 RM 125. Went well, but me personally I thought the YZ125’s went a lot quicker ✌🏼
I'm not sure if he was removing the factory main jet or not but most bike were jetted a bit fat for safety sake.
Had same issue, your coil heats up and begins to fail, cools of and works fine till it gets hot again.
I used to have soft spots for Suzuki, Kawasaki & Honda 2-Stroke Race/Dirt Bikes. nowadays, I love them all. the best bike (factory freak) I ever had was an ‘85 CR80 (I quickly outgrew but still rode & kept it) that would beat new 250s & 125s (in early ‘90s) from Point A to Point B every time.
I got my uncle’s former race bike running (‘78 YZ100) when K was 11yrs old & had a legit moto-x track behind our property to learn on.
I still have my 1st two KX125s, 2 old Suzuki TS bikes (75cc & 185cc), an ‘89 RM250 (PoS), two old CR250s (‘88 & ‘04) & what will be the newest & nicest restored Yamaha RD350 (twin 2-stroke) waiting & ready to be put back together, after $4k worth of paint, parts & machining.
I have a fraction of what Joe has in 2-strokes, so I do know that I’m not as bad as others. I love all bikes, but ripping a hot 2-stroke scratches a specific itch.
First time I’ve watched you for a couple weeks and love the content and channel and how calm you are when stuff is bad and you don’t give up keep it going and hoping to get a dirt bike
I’ve had this issue,
I wasn’t told to use a crank case sealer !
I had a buddy and we both did the mains, It was drawing air through the crank cases because they weren’t sealed 🤔
Sounds like a heat saturation problem or something that’s so weird!
Would love to see another KDX 200 video sometime! They have really gone up in value recently
young 125 owners like to mess with the exhaust valve bolt and spring. i would set that first before adjusting jets and screws on the carb. that lag time before the power band kicks in is most likely the exhaust valve and spring are off. just a thought. btw your videos cause me to jump on marketplace looking for an old 125 :)
Instantly sounded crisper with the 450 main jet. Even before you set off.
Great videos! Love watching all your content and learning
You can never tire of that sound . Great job
Great explanation on needle height setting. I bet 99.9% of ppl move it down for “rich” then up “Lean”. Brilliant vid My plug is really rich I’ll be moving mine the same as yours UP
Agree I ride a 125 and I'm 41 yrs old . ive loved them since my teen yrs. I also believe you should be able to putt around without it loading up if tuned correctly. And it all comes down to leaning out the needle if your jets are correct. 99% of people move the needle to rich or dont touch it at all.
@@drock5298 Hahahaha. I’m 43yrs old and just got myself a 350 Warrior for cheap. Bought the Boyz some Kayo atv’s last year and needed something cheap for myself just to keep up.
I wonder if you lossen the power valve spring if that would help with low rpm bog too.
Can you or did you ever unbury that last cursed bike? Let’s see it get fixed again and sell it brother, your a legend you fix anything 🍀💪
Ayyy back with the dirtbike vids keep it up👍
I think it sounded a lot better after your carb adjustments. When you first started the video it sounded choppy the whole time the carb adjustments and jetting fixed the issue.
Check the power valve setting and get a brand new plug in when it’s warm already and do a 1-2-3 pull real quick cut it off and pull plug. It lookeds like it had a bit much timing on the electrode where it was burnt past the bend of electrode
These are fantastic bikes. You did a great job getting this machine going strong again!
typically when you have molex connectors the pins are a soft aluminum coated copper and as such on an offroad vehicle being exposed to moisture those connecters will oxidize so when you move them and wiggle them around it breaks up that surface oxidation and lowers circuit resistance I deal with it every day with boilers and such
You have to be very active on the gear box to keep the 125s in the power band.
U need to put ur airscrew like 1 turn out because ur idle starts floating. If the bike bogs when u turn full throttle from idle it means that its running too lean so u need to turn ur airscrew in or put bigger pilot jet
The idle to primary jet transition does sound lean.
It almost sounds like the pilot is too rich when you are riding and accelerating. Once it is on the main it clears right up.
Hmmm... interesting. I bought a brand new 2023 YZ85LW last November and it has a somewhat similar problem with the fact that on some rides it'll run completely fine and has great power and then on another day or potentially the same day (I never know when as I can't seem to identify a pattern to it) it will be very boggy and run like absolute crap. Since I bought it brand new and I've always taken very well care of all my bikes, it makes absolute zero sense to me. And its starting to get very frustrating. Whatever it is I've noticed that its effected by the spark plug, carburetor, and fuel. If I change out or clean one of those things, it will temporarily run very well. But its getting to where I have to work on it in some way or another after nearly every ride. I've rode only 4 strokes all my life until I got this bike, are 2 strokes supposed to be like this? Or what could be the problem?
On my two strokes, I put in a new plug every day. They are really hard on them. I seem to get one good day per plug. Long rides, carry a spare !
Great video series. Thanks for posting. Having somewhat similar issues with a 150 KTM. This should be very helpful.
Since you work on bikes a quality stripped bolt kit is 100% worth its weight in gold
Makuni carbs have issue with the jet block gasket jd jetting sells them for 10 or 20 bucks my 22 husky tc 125 had this issue right out of the box when I bought it brand new. It had no bottom end and lean bog so bad but rev like a mother once on the pipe. Once I swapped the jet block gasket bike pulled from bottom to top no issue. Might be worth a try for a few bucks. Love the channel !
I love the explanation with the needle position! More explanations please 👍🏼👍🏼
Even though you say it’s a new plug. Check the porcelain insulator with a magnifying glass. I had a plug that ran great until it heated up. It was a new plug also. Drove me nuts. The insulator had a hair line crack. Ran great cold. Soon as it warmed up it ran like crap. Good luck.
That 199 replica looks sick , great job
I've just got a cr 250 2001 barn find proper mint 👌
Awesome! Can't beat the cr250s
The ignition on that bike fires 3 times every time the piston comes to top dead center if you don't run the correct spark plug NGK R6918B-8 the electrode will break off into the cylinder and then to the bottom destroying the motor I've owned several RM,s
Jetting is off could be the needle! Or the float it is bogging off idle so it’s gotta be jetting
I was really surprised that you replace the cases, I assume because of the J-B weld? That was a simple drill and tap process I've seen it done before. In my opinion the cases were still serviceable.
ive had wire grounding out on fly wheel when rev the bike up it suck wire into things and it gound out
Your getting the bogs because the parts havent mated/seated fully yet. when alluminum or steele heats up it expands. so your top end was getting tighter causing the bogging.
Everything check’s out Cold…..You need to heat saturate those components.
could also be bad crank seals. Or bad pickup coil. Both can cause intermittent issues when hot
I always remove my swing arm adjuster bolts and put antisieze compound on them to avoid those bolts from seizing.
Use a laser thermometer to check the cylinder temp when it starts to act up.
@2vintage have exact bike 2001 rm 125 with fmf. Have stock sized jets like you do the 460 instead of 450. Carb completely ran through fresh gas, oil, plug rugs awesome and idles great. But in gear once you got 3/4 for full throttle it completely bogs out like it’s hitting a rev limiter. Any suggestions??
Is the cooling ok? Definitely worth a good look at, yes the lerfect sparkplug colour indicates temperature is ok but we are clutching at straws here!
I have the same problem with my 1977...the hotter it gets, the worse it runs...
Air mixture
@@leanneeaton2093too lean. You are burning all of the fuel too early in the stroke. This generates even more heat or EGT. Richer mixtures use the fuel to cool EGTs. Creating a more stable EGT at higher temps.
@@oldjarhead386 plug reading says I am rich...had it running well, put a higher compression head on it and gets hot and blubbers..complete new ignition system with 4 hours on it??
23:22 To me it looks like the carb body is cracked right where the ‘I’ is in Made in Japan on the casting.
Sure does!
You finally beat it. Good job, Sir💪
Bro the way you ride makes it sould like there are problems. Stop letting off and shifting so fast. Let the power band finish before you shift. You are shifting before end of power band.
Don't heat sockets with a torch, they are heat treated, and will lose strength if heated too much.
When it comes to any carb engine you can check the same things over and over and still doesn't run how it should then out of nowhere it runs perfectly and I have found it is the tiniest of actions when working in the causes a big difference and the bike sounds amazing and alot better than before and sounds so much happier
The bike looks awesome! It’s still no Honda. Your videos are awesome I learn a lot from them!
My XR600 did something very similar and it turned out to be a faulty spark pickup it would only happen when it was warm
Both of my tensioner bolts were unmovable. So much so that i snapped both bolts. I had to take it in and my mechanic managed to extract/drill out the old bolts, put in threaded sleeves and install the new bolts I provided. It was expensive and he's so busy he had my bike over 3 weeks. And she still doesn't run! I'm going through the spark plug currently and will tackle the carb next 2004 rmz 250
That's what sucks about diagnosing a intermittent problem. Since bike runs good when cold everything is going to check out good. Would need to test when problem occurs
Before I watch the entire video what about vapor locking . To me sounds like a fuel problem have you check the gas petcock to check the flow of gas. I just guessing here or check the exhaust at the silencer see if it's getting plugged up
Yep, I had exact same symptoms once and there was a hairline crack across the seam of the top of the coil. Result: Intermittent short across the casing making the motor go sluggish when revving. Easiest way to check: with full blackout darkness in the room, or outside, look for light emitted FROM engine bay.
This reminds me of a snowmobile I had. Kept blowing up. When it got hot, idle would climb a bit. Found out I had an air leak (base gasket I believe). Also had an exhaust leak that blew back on head.
Just thoughts
Your bike sounded better as the video went on though
Sounds good on high rpm as for low rpm sounds like it's holding back
Engine braking when slowing down is not good ‘ when that Throttle is closed your piston is not getting much Lubrication . Pull clutch in and Blip that Throttle!
Nice bike, good job getting it running. Always a learning moment
You might check the reeds. If they're worn or they can effect low end throttle response.
I don't know, but I think the only problem I see is that you need a lot more land, about at least a 5 mile long racing circle of land
It flew, Joe. Perfect!
Put antiseize on those bolts to the chain tensioners before you install them and you shouldn’t ever have that problem again.
Joe you need to retest all that stuff when bikes hot , not when it's cold , it seems to me you have the issues at running temps
The sparkplug boot has a resistor in it some time it will test good until it heat's up you should change it out
Hey joe, I recently picked up an rm125 and I have good compression and spark. Just cleaned the carb, and I can’t get the bogging issue to go away.. it won’t open the power valve at all and sing.. if you have any advice.. id be greatly appreciated
Before I watch this video, I'm going with the coil. When the coil heats you The resistors in Lose contact that's why the motor loose power.
I raced for 15 years in the 270 micro class and this happens a lot with old coil and caps.
5 ohm caps go bad all the time.
I don't know the ohms on your coil
Honda 10.4 to 11
Yamaha 13.5 to 14
Remember The higher the ohms are the hot the spark will be
Bravo, you are getting closer. Missing in the vid with Bear Kreek Boys was your brother Chuck/Charlie, flip flop wearing wheely popping
Hey, where did you get that cool lever bike stand? Or did you make it? I'd like one.
Have a 2002 rm250 that does same exact thing when it’s running it’s good but as soon as it get hot it will shut off and not start
Leak test. All 2Ts should be leak/pressure tested as part of regular maintenance. Set idle to spec.
It wouldn’t hurt to check the seal in between the intake boot and the air box that something that gets overlooked a lot of times
Hotter spark plug. Solved my issue with my cr
Hey v2, could you do a video of how you get good deals on things or just any tips about it, also could you do a video showing basic tools and steps to perform a rebuild because like me and probably many others watching these videos love to do the stuff but we just need a head start to get going. Thanks✌️ and if there’s anyway, you could do a video like that put a whole list of tools in the description that would be sweet!
As many times as you say that the bike has been blown up. It sounds like bad crank seals high idle after you let off the throttle the bog. Leak down test
steel to aluminum put anti seize on chain tensioner bolts
I really like this bike color scheme.
Replace only one at a time ,so you will know which part it was., put spark tester in line when hot and check it, they can read correct specs when cold.
Take your heat gun and gradually heat up your coil etc while checking values.
When doing diag and checking ohms if the bike is running good cold but not hot you need to check the parts hot. You can use a heat gun to simulate the heat from a ride. Obviously don't cook them but you know. Keep up the great entertainment bro
Yeah, that's how we tested and discovered the pick up coil on my XR650r was failing, it would start cold and run but when you stopped it would not restart until it cooled off.
Love the video keep them coming ❤
You can straighten that rad out easy…loads of UA-cam vids on it.Mine was like a pretzel…got it totally back in shape.
Gotta love that sweet 2 Stroke symphony 😊
I had the same problem with my scrambler I bought every electric part I could for changed them one at a time found out it was the regular went bad
What size sprocket and chain do you recommend for a 250cc
The idle after the 450 main jet sounds lean, the idle likes to start floating. I'd try a pilot jet 2 steps bigger. But that's my OCD, sorry haha
How's the operation of the power valve in the exhaust port? That can cause headaches with tuning. Jetting turned out to be the culprit, apparently, sounds like it's screaming now!
Great video, Joe!
I clean an inspected the exhaust valves before rebuild. They were super smooth.
Joe great video. You need to try to find you a 500 2stroke? Don't worry I got a lot of broken bones from the one I had. LOL
Do a leak test B4 you change parts
Bike looking mint sounds so good n was absolutely ripping that low rev bog is on most 125's
Would love to see you ride and enjoy your bikes more, maybe some trails in your area.
I would sell that bike so fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!