Great video: clear, to the point, how to (no music, no bs, etc.); excellent video image close up, and perfect pace to follow up your teaching. THANK YOU.
Thank you for sharing, you are an excellent instructor! I enjoy using this grinder because it saves time and when set up properly it is very acurate! Cheers
I know I will need to watch the master grinder at work, human, a few times to get down his rhythm and waste of no movements. I'm glad the video is short.
Ive got one of these sharpeners, absolutely love it! Your tooth length doesnt regulate how much wood is being cut,your rakers do. You could have teeth of all different lengths,either side of the bar, as long as your raker are all set to the tooth. Lots of good videos about this. I usethis grinder on my rakers to, works slick for that also
You are correct that the rakers determine how much wood is being removed with the top cutting edge of the tooth. The tooth is tapered from front to back, so if you grind one side shorter than the other side, the longer side will take more wood, create more kerf and the saw will want to cut on the curve, following the longer tooth.
Quick question. How do you determine if the rakers are at the correct height? I thought ripping chain spacers were a different height than standard chain.
I bought this sharpener this past spring when it was on sale and I love it for all my chainsaws. I have two problems with this video. One is that it doesn't stress the rotation of this tool when sharpening as explained in the included directions. The grinder should turn toward the tooth which means the power head must be to your right as you set up the sharpener. Second, grinding the depth gauge teeth or rakers is just as important is the cutting teeth. Ignoring these will make your saw cutting be less efficient. Also doing it but grinding them too much can also make your saw more apt to kick back since it allows the chain to cut too deep. Eric doesn't give any instruction on this process at all. There are a couple of other videos by others that are much better at explaining this tool.
Could you post a link to videos you found to be more helpful? I’m no stranger to using a saw. Used a hand file for years and did ‘alright.’ I have this sharpener and love it for speed, accuracy, portability, and cost. Also you can use Stihl stones which are readily available at my local Stihl dealer. I came across a video that suggested the stone turn away from the top. This method leaves burrs which would be gone within moments of the first cutting. Wondering which is better. I know when sharpening a carbon steel knife (like a K-bar) on a wet stone you move into the blade. However these are not the same quality of stone. Just a thought. With this being a DC motor, you can connect pos - neg and neg - pos and get reverse direction of the stone.
At 3:43 I can see an angle set at 5 degrees, what is the purpose of that? Also he is sharpening a (non granberg) ripping chain in the video, but at the end of the video he's working on a granberg ripping chain which has different angles. No explanation of what's going on. I also was hoping to be enlightened as to using this sharpener for setting depth gauges (rakers). One more thing, there are better stones available to fit this sharpener, EZE-LAP Diamond grinding stones, available at baileysonline.com. Other than that, it's a good sharpener for the price, I can think of some improvements that could be engineered into it, but the cost would go up.
At 3:56 it shows you it's at 10 degrees and explains each mark is 5 degrees. Not sure where you are seeing 5 degrees. Also, I can assure you Mr. Granberg is using Granberg Ripping chain the entire time and they are all set at 10 degrees. If you give us a call at 925-380-9400 we'd be happy to go over how to lower your depth gauges with the G1012XT.
Thanks for the video. How long would you expect a single sharpening stone to last? (I know it's relative, etc. ... but say, for example a 28" chain that never got any damaged teeth). Thanks!
Up to 4-5 sharpenings, depending on how much you have to grind to get it back to a sharp edge. It will last longer if you use our Granberg Kool grind. As it wears down you will loose the diameter of the stone, which at that point could be used on a smaller pitch chain.
Couple questions: Are you using our sharpener? Electric or the hand sharpener? And secondly, we use our Kool Grind lubricant for the stone. granberg.com/product/g440-kool-grind-grind-cooler-and-longer/?v=7516fd43adaa Any other details you can tell us will help us to figure out whats going on. Thanks!
@@granberginternational Yes I am using Your Granberg Electric Model G1012XT Sharpener.. No do not have Kool Grand Lubricant . I will order some... I did notice if I lift up just a bit on the sharpener it does seem to move smoother.. Thanks so much for replying... Once I get the hang of this sharpener I think it will be Great for sharpening chain saw chains.....PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE..!!!
@@rjazco51 Totally, sometimes it takes some time to get the hand of it. However, if you'd like shoot us a picture of your chain and setup and maybe even a quick video and we'll see if we can decipher whats going on. There's a balance of getting it properly in the gullet. And maybe another obvious question but you've got the angle set up right? Either way shoot me an email at lindsey@granberg.com and I will personally send your questions/pics to Mr Granberg ( my father ;) Happy holidays!
I have had this problem too. It doesn’t have anything to do with the grinder stone but rather the metal shaft that slides back-and-forth seems to get hung up or stuck. I haven’t tried it yet but would grease on that post make it slide back and fourth easier?
Hi Scott! The G1012's base was designed around an older 3/8 bar. If the bar you're using has a different width, either wider or more narrow, it will shift the relative center of the pivot point on the swivel base, and that will move the grinder forward or backward by a fraction of an inch.
My first experience with this type of jig was in mid 1960's with a McCulloch branded tool very similar to Granberg with file. That one and a couple of Granbergs always filed one side more than the other and I never understood why the engineering of the product allowed that. Like this demo, you have to measure and adjust to avoid cutting one side deeper. But, why not fix the design so that you can just rotate the top section to the opposite side and get the SAME result?
Hello! We are engineering that problem with our new design which will have an adjustable mounting system that allows you to center the filing jig on the various bar thicknesses that are out there so when you rotate to the other side the file will be located on the same center. The G1012XT currently should not have that problem since you grind from the same side for both teeth. - Erik Granberg
@@granberginternational Good news! Thanks for the reply. I use the Granberg file'n joint rigs to true-up my chains after field use and several field sharpening free handed.
I have a G106B File N Joint. Can I just buy the electric grinder separately & build a G1012XT? Or is the grinder assembly sold with G1012XT have brackets that are not on your other 12V sharpeners? And if not, why the hell didn't you make it adaptable to the G106B File N Joint, what's wrong with you?! JK :-P You might consider engineering some kind of adapter brackets so your customers like me can use the 12V sharpener. I'd buy one & possibly several other customers would want one also. It doesn't look like all your other 12V sharpeners have the needed attachment brackets required so...
Hi there! That Stihl grinder is a knockoff of our G106B grinder ;) Our G106B is a professional grade sharpener and is liked by many. It also has a lifetime warranty and is American-made.
@@granberginternational excellent! I normally hand file, but after about 5 filings, I like to get the factory Edge back. Ive used bar mounted jigs over the years but human error doesn't give me the perfection I am seeking. I'm still looking forward to purchasing my Alaskan Mill from you. Looks like I have to budget for a little bit more LOL. I was supposed to get one this year, but funds just didn't allow for it. Thanks for being a stand-up company. When I see Granberg, I think quality.
Would be a lot better to have audio instructions instead of just text. Each time I look down to read text I miss what you are pointing at and have to rewind to see what you were pointing at instead of just being able to listen and watch, very frustrating
Tip from Oamaru Sth island New Zealand.
Use a conventional file to file one tooth then set grinder to that ideal finish.
Great video: clear, to the point, how to (no music, no bs, etc.); excellent video image close up, and perfect pace to follow up your teaching. THANK YOU.
I'm SO glad Lindsy directed me here! Great job on this tool lesson!
Thank you for sharing, you are an excellent instructor! I enjoy using this grinder because it saves time and when set up properly it is very acurate! Cheers
I know I will need to watch the master grinder at work, human, a few times to get down his rhythm and waste of no movements. I'm glad the video is short.
Ive got one of these sharpeners, absolutely love it! Your tooth length doesnt regulate how much wood is being cut,your rakers do. You could have teeth of all different lengths,either side of the bar, as long as your raker are all set to the tooth. Lots of good videos about this. I usethis grinder on my rakers to, works slick for that also
You are correct that the rakers determine how much wood is being removed with the top cutting edge of the tooth. The tooth is tapered from front to back, so if you grind one side shorter than the other side, the longer side will take more wood, create more kerf and the saw will want to cut on the curve, following the longer tooth.
How do you use it for the rakers please?
Quick question. How do you determine if the rakers are at the correct height? I thought ripping chain spacers were a different height than standard chain.
I too would like to know how to use it for rakers. Just got mine and haven't even set it up yet. That'd be nice to know as I get going.
I've watched and used vids from other channels for a few years now
This vid exceeds them all - Thanks!!
Thanks for the vid... great information... will be adding one later this year.
Looks impressive
The Allen cap head bolts used to clamp the blade need a 5/32 inch Allen key, outside of the USA that's 4 mm
I bought this sharpener this past spring when it was on sale and I love it for all my chainsaws. I have two problems with this video. One is that it doesn't stress the rotation of this tool when sharpening as explained in the included directions. The grinder should turn toward the tooth which means the power head must be to your right as you set up the sharpener. Second, grinding the depth gauge teeth or rakers is just as important is the cutting teeth. Ignoring these will make your saw cutting be less efficient. Also doing it but grinding them too much can also make your saw more apt to kick back since it allows the chain to cut too deep. Eric doesn't give any instruction on this process at all. There are a couple of other videos by others that are much better at explaining this tool.
Could you post a link to videos you found to be more helpful? I’m no stranger to using a saw. Used a hand file for years and did ‘alright.’ I have this sharpener and love it for speed, accuracy, portability, and cost. Also you can use Stihl stones which are readily available at my local Stihl dealer. I came across a video that suggested the stone turn away from the top. This method leaves burrs which would be gone within moments of the first cutting. Wondering which is better. I know when sharpening a carbon steel knife (like a K-bar) on a wet stone you move into the blade. However these are not the same quality of stone. Just a thought. With this being a DC motor, you can connect pos - neg and neg - pos and get reverse direction of the stone.
At 3:43 I can see an angle set at 5 degrees, what is the purpose of that? Also he is sharpening a (non granberg) ripping chain in the video, but at the end of the video he's working on a granberg ripping chain which has different angles. No explanation of what's going on. I also was hoping to be enlightened as to using this sharpener for setting depth gauges (rakers). One more thing, there are better stones available to fit this sharpener, EZE-LAP Diamond grinding stones, available at baileysonline.com. Other than that, it's a good sharpener for the price, I can think of some improvements that could be engineered into it, but the cost would go up.
At 3:56 it shows you it's at 10 degrees and explains each mark is 5 degrees. Not sure where you are seeing 5 degrees. Also, I can assure you Mr. Granberg is using Granberg Ripping chain the entire time and they are all set at 10 degrees. If you give us a call at 925-380-9400 we'd be happy to go over how to lower your depth gauges with the G1012XT.
Thanks for the video.
How long would you expect a single sharpening stone to last? (I know it's relative, etc. ... but say, for example a 28" chain that never got any damaged teeth). Thanks!
Up to 4-5 sharpenings, depending on how much you have to grind to get it back to a sharp edge. It will last longer if you use our Granberg Kool grind. As it wears down you will loose the diameter of the stone, which at that point could be used on a smaller pitch chain.
@@granberginternational Thanks!
When I am trying to push the Grinder forward & back it is NOT Easy, NOT SMOOTH, Tried Silicone Spray but Still not Smooth.... ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS
Couple questions: Are you using our sharpener? Electric or the hand sharpener? And secondly, we use our Kool Grind lubricant for the stone. granberg.com/product/g440-kool-grind-grind-cooler-and-longer/?v=7516fd43adaa Any other details you can tell us will help us to figure out whats going on. Thanks!
@@granberginternational Yes I am using Your Granberg Electric Model G1012XT Sharpener.. No do not have Kool Grand Lubricant . I will order some... I did notice if I lift up just a bit on the sharpener it does seem to move smoother.. Thanks so much for replying... Once I get the hang of this sharpener I think it will be Great for sharpening chain saw chains.....PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE..!!!
@@rjazco51 Totally, sometimes it takes some time to get the hand of it. However, if you'd like shoot us a picture of your chain and setup and maybe even a quick video and we'll see if we can decipher whats going on. There's a balance of getting it properly in the gullet. And maybe another obvious question but you've got the angle set up right? Either way shoot me an email at lindsey@granberg.com and I will personally send your questions/pics to Mr Granberg ( my father ;) Happy holidays!
@@rjazco51 Also - we are having a black friday sale starting Friday - use coupon code: blackfriday20
I have had this problem too. It doesn’t have anything to do with the grinder stone but rather the metal shaft that slides back-and-forth seems to get hung up or stuck. I haven’t tried it yet but would grease on that post make it slide back and fourth easier?
hi i just bought a 12v charpener i have a jonsered turbo with 375 tchain what diameter stone do i use best thank you
Forgive the late reply but the size stone you would need for the 375 pitch chain is a 7/32" Stone. Its our part number G419-3
granberg.com/product/g419-3-grinding-wheel-732-3-pack/
What is the portable charger you are using? Is that a portable jump starter?
We are working on supplying these soon but the one we are using is a DB Power jump starter.
I don’t understand why the tooth length would change just by rotating the guide by the same degrees to file the opposite teeth ??
Hi Scott!
The G1012's base was designed around an older 3/8 bar. If the bar you're using has a different width, either wider or more narrow, it will shift the relative center of the pivot point on the swivel base, and that will move the grinder forward or backward by a fraction of an inch.
Does this sharpener take the rakers d
My first experience with this type of jig was in mid 1960's with a McCulloch branded tool very similar to Granberg with file. That one and a couple of Granbergs always filed one side more than the other and I never understood why the engineering of the product allowed that. Like this demo, you have to measure and adjust to avoid cutting one side deeper. But, why not fix the design so that you can just rotate the top section to the opposite side and get the SAME result?
Hello! We are engineering that problem with our new design which will have an adjustable mounting system that allows you to center the
filing jig on the various bar thicknesses that are out there so when you rotate to the other side the file will be located on the same center.
The G1012XT currently should not have that problem since you grind from the same side for both teeth. - Erik Granberg
@@granberginternational Good news! Thanks for the reply. I use the Granberg file'n joint rigs to true-up my chains after field use and several field sharpening free handed.
I have a G106B File N Joint. Can I just buy the electric grinder separately & build a G1012XT? Or is the grinder assembly sold with G1012XT have brackets that are not on your other 12V sharpeners? And if not, why the hell didn't you make it adaptable to the G106B File N Joint, what's wrong with you?! JK :-P You might consider engineering some kind of adapter brackets so your customers like me can use the 12V sharpener. I'd buy one & possibly several other customers would want one also. It doesn't look like all your other 12V sharpeners have the needed attachment brackets required so...
ΗΙ, GRANBERG 106B, IS SIMILAR TO FG 3 MADE BY STIHL, THEY ARE BOTH PROFESSIONAL?
Hi there! That Stihl grinder is a knockoff of our G106B grinder ;) Our G106B is a professional grade sharpener and is liked by many. It also has a lifetime warranty and is American-made.
you didn't show how the depth gauge is done
Retail cost?
$79.00 and lifetime warranty !
@@granberginternational excellent! I normally hand file, but after about 5 filings, I like to get the factory Edge back. Ive used bar mounted jigs over the years but human error doesn't give me the perfection I am seeking. I'm still looking forward to purchasing my Alaskan Mill from you. Looks like I have to budget for a little bit more LOL.
I was supposed to get one this year, but funds just didn't allow for it. Thanks for being a stand-up company. When I see Granberg, I think quality.
I would think the stone would start off 7/32, but after ten teeth it would be much less..
Would be a lot better to have audio instructions instead of just text. Each time I look down to read text I miss what you are pointing at and have to rewind to see what you were pointing at instead of just being able to listen and watch, very frustrating
You don't have your pitch set wright you need to learn how to sharpen a chain wright before you show someone how to video
Not sure what you are talking about? The pitch is the size of chain. You choose the right diameter stone for chain pitch you are sharpening.
Says someone that can't spell "right" correctly, SMH.