Tim, sandblasting will not work harden the metal. The weight of the sand grains is simply too low to impart any significant energy. Shot peening on the other hand, where you shoot much heavier particles (well, actually balls, so glass beads or steel shot) might impart some work hardening. It also depends on the specific titanium alloy you've used for the hammer.
This... Bead blasting, or even using a needle scaler, would do a far better job of work hardening. Sand blasting would just leave a rough, matte finish.
Yes Shot peening or bead blasting would actually fairly decently work harden the material, so long as the media is harder than the titanium it should be fine to my knowledge so steel or glass should work sufficiently.
Hardening titanium by shot peening is definitely a thing, though I don't know if sandblasting is the same. I'd venture to guess that shot peening would work a treat, with stainless media. You see this kind of thing on thing like titanium connecting rods
Replying again because i put a URL in my first comment and I'm unsure if it will work, so this is a backup. there are white papers on the subject, and it seems like a perfect fit for this sciencedirect.--- /science/article/pii/S2452321619300198 Abstract ... One of the methods employed is shot peening process, which is a surface phenomenon and introduces compressive residual stress so that the properties like stress corrosion cracking, forming operations, strength get enhanced. The design and experimental work involves the various shot peening parameters such as impact angle, coverage area, Almen intensity levels affecting the surface roughness as well as surface and sub-surface residual stresses. Further, design of experiments involving Taguchi’s technique has been discussed at length. The shot peening parameters have been correlated with residual stress and surface roughness parameters. It is also observed that microstructure of the titanium alloy is having the features to support the fatigue properties. Finally the work has been summarized to arise at optimization of these parameters to achieve higher residual stress from the point of higher fatigue life.
Maybe just beat the hammer on a smooth finished surface. Or make a block with a concave surface that matches the hammer face and slam the face into it until it's all work hardend. You could rig up a drop tool that can slam the hammer head the same every time.
The benefit that the anodized blue head has over natural is that it lets you instantly identify it as your titanium hammer. But since you don't use other crosspeen hammers, it isn't really nessasary. On your next hammer handle, I recommend that you try out a quasiregular truncated square handle. In layman's terms, a rectangle handle with heavy chamfered corners. Elongated octagonal handles are my favorite hammer handle shape.
For work hardening the hammer in a way similar to sandblasting you could look into shot peening. It is used in the automotibe industry to harden surfaces of some engine parts.
TIM. Look into how the old Romans and Greeks would harden their cast bronze short swords. They would get the primary bevel cast/ground, then just beat and peen the edges to work harden them and then grind the secondary/final edge in that work hardened material. I think if you just went to town all over on the face of your hammer with a ball peen, that would be the same as shot or sand blasting, then you could polish that back to a smooth, useful striking face.
Mount the hammer head on the piston on your power hammer. Make a fixture for a shunky iron ingot for the anvil. Heat the ingot white hot and put it in the fixture and whale away til the hammer head left a perfect indentation. When cool just fix the power hammer on some soft blow level and go eat dinner and let it thump. After a couple of hours it must surely be work hardened enough. Easy as! What a great idea mate! 👌 Well thanks! 🤣
I love anodized Titanium But the finish I loved MOST in this hammer was where the Anodized part was _ALMOST_ worn off from work It showed a hint of glorious color under the wear and tear of a job well done And the presence of the color EMPHASIZED the work that the hammer had done, PROOF of a tool well used
@@drthmik would you take of the paint of a used fucked up chair or leave it on, even tho its missing paint on two sides and barely visibel on the others? the anodized blue looks cool but only when its clean and unbroken. like this it just looked like paint that has come off. i do not allow you to be wrong, btw.
Shot peening would work harden the surface. Sand blasting removes material instead of allowing work hardening (dislocation density in materials science terms) to build up.
Great vid, Tim. Thanks for taking us along for the story and revamp. I wonder how many people winced when you drew that line right to left lol. Keep up the great work brother.
The vibrations would make it unbearable. Wood is used to dampen them. He wouldn’t be able to “use” his hammer and that’s the whole point. He didn’t make something to hang on the wall and look pretty
I did read it. That’s why I explained that your idea wasn’t “cool”, as you stated… it was problematic and definitely NOT awesome. “Probably” insinuated that you didn’t know… now you do. Or…. Did YOU not read what you typed?
I would say shoulders for hammers are not good at all. If the handle becomes loose, there is no way to drive the handle into the eye anymore without causing the handleto splinter. You then have to solely rely on a steel wedge/s to tighten up the handle.
There's a reason sandblasting won't work; but a wire wheel with thick strands will work. If you make a hammer like that; and you have a thick stranded wire wheel (I use a 300mm stainless 1mm strands wire wheel at 1500 rpm on a 3kW motor) the repeated impacts of the wires will harden the titanium (also aluminium); they will spark; and leave a orange-peel like finish. to keep it consistent; finish the hammer face; rotate the hammer 90°, finish again; rotate 90°, finish again, 90°, finish again..... it's quite repetitive; but well worth the work. The texture won't translate to your work odd enough, but it won't deform, and act like a hard steel hammer face. Well; it worked for me on 6ALV4 Ti. I used a 40mm round bar of 6AL4V titanium to forge a hammer.
Work harden it using a second hammer on the titanium face and edges, then redress it with a file and light hammer blows to the desired shape. You may have to repeat this from time to time, just to keep it looking good. Happy Blacksmithing!
Came to suggest a needle scaler to harden your hammer. If you felt like going to the trouble of rigging up a little induction furnace inside a chamber you can pump the air out of and fill with nitrogen, you could give nitriding a try.
This might be stupid but why would you not just use another hammer for the work hardening. You could even choose the material for the hardness you need so you don’t damage the titanium hammer but the sacrificial one.
When it comes to handle length, a wise hunk of a hammer making Smith friend of mine said, I'd rather be looking at it than looking for it. Like you said you can always cut it later.
I prefer the natural color/finish. Also, if you weren't aware, Ti is susceptible to heat degradation. That's why they are limited in use as pew pew suppressors.
I think you should have just left the finish like it was, and it would have been a two tone look. With the old anodized mostly still there, but where you dressed it up, would be the shinny new. I always love that two tone look; old and new.
I was thinking the same thing. I have seen steel shot shooting machines for preparing concrete for resurfacing so could reach out for fun collaboration. However, be fun to set up the needler in a vice and the Hammer below it and let it pound for several hours. Especially if you put some downforce on the needler.
In aviation we surface harden titanium by steel ball bearing peening. Sand blasting, grit blasting, aluminum oxide blasting ect is an abrasive blast and doesn't peen as much as bead or ball blasting. A ball peening machine is a heavy duty thing that you could not just use a regular shop air compressor for, but a bead blaster could. I think it's better to let your hammer face "break in" by itself and a couple times a week polish the face with a scotch bite belt
Tim, you could try an air needle scaler to work over the surface or (silly suggestion) what would happen if you used your air power hammer to pound the whole thing when cold?
Tim! I remember when you first made that hammer and I thoroughly enjoyed it, I also thought the anodizing process was super cool and interesting. Have you thought about making another titanium hammer? Maybe a different tool instead of a hammer, maybe play around with the anodizing colors too, like have a green titanium axe or a pair of rose gold tongs! Haha just spit balling here, I think it would make for a pretty neat video
I work with titanium grade 4 and 5 everyday where I work. We make various types of parts for a certain industry. We run swiss lathes and before loading the bar you have to chamfer it and if you go to long or at to high of an RPM you will harden it. It is a beautiful but finicky material!! Love the hammer. You should sell them...
i wonder if you should just strike the hammer face with another one, really make sure you work harden it evenly or you could just take the hammer and wail at the anvil for a while and see what happens!
Could you smack the working faces with a power hammer or press while it’s cold to work harden the surface? I’m not sure about sandblasting, but I’ve used a CO2 laser to surface harden steel, from what I understand it does a combination of temperature hardening and impact hardening on the surface of the material.
That length is PERFECT. I have a smaller cross peen that I hafted with 16" of handle from the bottom of the head. I'm NOT a blacksmith, but I use that hammer so very often. I'd rather impart speed than swing weight. Choke up for finer work, slip down for some grunt. You'll probably need real shot peening to give you a thick enough hardened layer to matter. I just dont think sand will move enough material.
Could you use a well polished steel hammer to hammer on the titanium face and harden it that way? The polished face would leave a smoother finish and you could reorient the steel hammer to better match the curves of the titanium hammer's face, and then maybe just touch it up VERY slightly with a scotchbrite belt
I think I commented on the last video about media blasting and many folks in the comments have corrected my previous comment on your video, yes you would need a medium is heavier in weight per particle than just sand blasting (Honest mistake on my part I'm not particularly familiar at all with this it was just something mentioned to me in an Engineering Class) In general you would need something harder than the titanium to hit the hammer face with, Steel and glass beads should work, potentially even ceramic shot if you could get it. Tumbling might have some minor effects but I would be weary about hardening anything but the striking face of the hammer as that could cause cracking. Again please if anyone has more experience in this field do let me know and correct me or add on to what I've said.
Us tall guys gotta watch our backs. Perhaps you could work harden with one of those air tools that's a bunch of vibrating rods designed to remove scale? Or just pay some kid to stand and hit a clean anvil all day.
You harden most titanium with heat over time. (and often protected by argon or some other nobel gas) Some of them can workharden a little over time to some degree depending on what kind of titanium you use.. Gr2 is pretty common , but I don´t remember if it´s good for hardening to high HRC.. (think gr7 might get hardest of the common ones, but I don´t remember that one to be forgeable) But I know it takes alot of time! And a good heatsource with a special atmosphere. I miss the German guy!!! (by the way)
My opinion only, but I like both looks of the titanium hammer head. The Scotch Brite look is amazing, but also the blue anodized look is really impressive as well. Honestly, I couldn’t choose between the two different hammers. I would flip a coin and enjoy whichever one I got 😊👍 I would love to be able to sample swinging a titanium hammer. Would like to see how it feels 🙂
Timothy! Maybe you should try out making another Titanium hammer and send it off to someone to have it professionally hardened (however that is accomplished for Titanium). That way you could continue to reap the benefits from working with the Titanium hammer, but have it hardened and last for a lifetime (if thats possible)
Can't you test the hardness of the different regions with those test pencills? I saw them in other videos where they test glasses and things like that.
Natural titanium color with mirrored finish sides. Walnut wedge. 16" length. Have you tried your Rockwell hardness tester on the face of your titanium forging hammer? Test it now, test it one year from now, testit 2 years from now.
I think it’s so cool you made something so unique and used it enough that it wore out and needed some upkeep! More people should use things that they made with their own hands.
Tim, have you considered raising your anvil an inch or two? As tall as you are, it seems like it might be easier on your back and not require you to hunch over so much…
Hopefully you get great use out of it for many more years to come. Can't wait to see more videos soon Timothy. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge Lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
You can work harden the hammer by taking a ball peen hammer to it or the easiest way would be to just take a torch to the hammer. Sadly you would most likely have to make a new handle for the hammer.
Alright so you can't technically work-hardened with sandblasting the weight of the beads simply isn't enough but you can shot blast it now much like sandblasting you're shooting a bunch of particles at the surface of the material the differences in the size and weight of these particles they're usually hardened steel BBs like the type that you would stick in a small air rifle but this doesn't actually harden the material all it does is make it less prone to cracking but what you can do to reliably work-hardened a blacksmithing Hammer is one of two options you can take the Hammer that you want to work harden hit it against the surface of your anvil the entire surface of your anvil with about twenty pounds of force consistently until you hit the entire anvil about twice this is also away some people surface there anvils another much faster is ways to use an air hammer to do the same thing except what you're hitting is the surface of the hammer that you want to work hard and it's not twice you want to go over the surface like 10 to 20 times ear protection is recommended for this
Timothy have you tried to cryo the titanium hammer slowly taking it down to -300f and then slowly bringing up to room temp it works real good on knife blades can't see why it wont work on titanium would make for a good vid cheers from down under
Titanium gets a great looking and damage camoflaging finish off the wire wheel. A durable orange peel texture would be ideal on a blacksmiths hammer. Practice a bit with an off cut to figure what pressure and speed gives you the looks you like. Shot peening might help harden the hammer. ✌ 😃
I was thinking (like a few others) just making a steel block with the inverse of the hammer face then whacking that for a while should harden it and keep it from deforming before its hard
You seem to be bending at the waist a little too much. Do you think you might try raising your anvil a little, 2" to 3" ? I think your lower back might thank you in the years to come. I also think your hammer strikes might be a little harder. I enjoy your videos very much, take good care & I'll be looking for your next adventures.
Why should we roast you, it's not that the titanium part you made was broken.. Refurbishing is nice too, it's making an old tool just like it was new, better than throwing it away.
Would a pneumatic scaler(?), not actually sure what it's called, work to work harden it faster? It'd be loud and probably wouldn't be super fast but it might be faster than using it normally...
Tim, sandblasting will not work harden the metal. The weight of the sand grains is simply too low to impart any significant energy.
Shot peening on the other hand, where you shoot much heavier particles (well, actually balls, so glass beads or steel shot) might impart some work hardening. It also depends on the specific titanium alloy you've used for the hammer.
You are right! Shot peening is used on aluminum and titanium to harden the surface of the material.
Yeah ceramic or steel shot
roto peen would work too, and might be an easier setup to put together if it's not something he needs to work with often.
This...
Bead blasting, or even using a needle scaler, would do a far better job of work hardening.
Sand blasting would just leave a rough, matte finish.
Yes Shot peening or bead blasting would actually fairly decently work harden the material, so long as the media is harder than the titanium it should be fine to my knowledge so steel or glass should work sufficiently.
Hardening titanium by shot peening is definitely a thing, though I don't know if sandblasting is the same. I'd venture to guess that shot peening would work a treat, with stainless media. You see this kind of thing on thing like titanium connecting rods
Replying again because i put a URL in my first comment and I'm unsure if it will work, so this is a backup.
there are white papers on the subject, and it seems like a perfect fit for this
sciencedirect.--- /science/article/pii/S2452321619300198
Abstract
... One of the methods employed is shot peening process, which is a surface phenomenon and introduces compressive residual stress so that the properties like stress corrosion cracking, forming operations, strength get enhanced. The design and experimental work involves the various shot peening parameters such as impact angle, coverage area, Almen intensity levels affecting the surface roughness as well as surface and sub-surface residual stresses. Further, design of experiments involving Taguchi’s technique has been discussed at length. The shot peening parameters have been correlated with residual stress and surface roughness parameters. It is also observed that microstructure of the titanium alloy is having the features to support the fatigue properties. Finally the work has been summarized to arise at optimization of these parameters to achieve higher residual stress from the point of higher fatigue life.
Shot peening is basically work hardening. I really don't know about hardening Titanium seeing as all its used for is allowing and paint...
Natural titanium has such a distinctive color and shine to it. I like it much better than the anodized blue.
Maybe just beat the hammer on a smooth finished surface. Or make a block with a concave surface that matches the hammer face and slam the face into it until it's all work hardend. You could rig up a drop tool that can slam the hammer head the same every time.
To have made a tool new yourself and then used it so much that it has to be refurbished is incredibly satisfying. Smith’s circle of life.
The benefit that the anodized blue head has over natural is that it lets you instantly identify it as your titanium hammer. But since you don't use other crosspeen hammers, it isn't really nessasary. On your next hammer handle, I recommend that you try out a quasiregular truncated square handle. In layman's terms, a rectangle handle with heavy chamfered corners. Elongated octagonal handles are my favorite hammer handle shape.
For work hardening the hammer in a way similar to sandblasting you could look into shot peening. It is used in the automotibe industry to harden surfaces of some engine parts.
and if you want to get real fancy look into laser peening
TIM. Look into how the old Romans and Greeks would harden their cast bronze short swords. They would get the primary bevel cast/ground, then just beat and peen the edges to work harden them and then grind the secondary/final edge in that work hardened material.
I think if you just went to town all over on the face of your hammer with a ball peen, that would be the same as shot or sand blasting, then you could polish that back to a smooth, useful striking face.
Mount the hammer head on the piston on your power hammer.
Make a fixture for a shunky iron ingot for the anvil.
Heat the ingot white hot and put it in the fixture and whale away til the hammer head left a perfect indentation.
When cool just fix the power hammer on some soft blow level and go eat dinner and let it thump.
After a couple of hours it must surely be work hardened enough.
Easy as!
What a great idea mate! 👌
Well thanks! 🤣
I love anodized Titanium
But the finish I loved MOST in this hammer was where the Anodized part was _ALMOST_ worn off from work
It showed a hint of glorious color under the wear and tear of a job well done
And the presence of the color EMPHASIZED the work that the hammer had done, PROOF of a tool well used
Yeah, the wethering made it really shine, just as you say
I agree. He should have dressed it up and left the rest as it was. Oh well.
i disagree,
battle scarred looke shit on this hammer,
i prefer factory new
@@koloblicin It's OK, you're allowed to be wrong
@@drthmik would you take of the paint of a used fucked up chair or leave it on,
even tho its missing paint on two sides and barely visibel on the others?
the anodized blue looks cool but only when its clean and unbroken.
like this it just looked like paint that has come off.
i do not allow you to be wrong, btw.
Shot peening would work harden the surface. Sand blasting removes material instead of allowing work hardening (dislocation density in materials science terms) to build up.
Great vid, Tim. Thanks for taking us along for the story and revamp. I wonder how many people winced when you drew that line right to left lol. Keep up the great work brother.
Probably not practical, but definitely awesome: making a titanium handle for the titanium hammer head. That would be cool.
The vibrations would make it unbearable. Wood is used to dampen them.
He wouldn’t be able to “use” his hammer and that’s the whole point. He didn’t make something to hang on the wall and look pretty
@@jrca1406 - that’s why I said not practical. Did you not read what I typed?
I did read it. That’s why I explained that your idea wasn’t “cool”, as you stated… it was problematic and definitely NOT awesome. “Probably” insinuated that you didn’t know… now you do. Or…. Did YOU not read what you typed?
I would say shoulders for hammers are not good at all. If the handle becomes loose, there is no way to drive the handle into the eye anymore without causing the handleto splinter. You then have to solely rely on a steel wedge/s to tighten up the handle.
There's a reason sandblasting won't work; but a wire wheel with thick strands will work. If you make a hammer like that; and you have a thick stranded wire wheel (I use a 300mm stainless 1mm strands wire wheel at 1500 rpm on a 3kW motor) the repeated impacts of the wires will harden the titanium (also aluminium); they will spark; and leave a orange-peel like finish. to keep it consistent; finish the hammer face; rotate the hammer 90°, finish again; rotate 90°, finish again, 90°, finish again..... it's quite repetitive; but well worth the work. The texture won't translate to your work odd enough, but it won't deform, and act like a hard steel hammer face. Well; it worked for me on 6ALV4 Ti. I used a 40mm round bar of 6AL4V titanium to forge a hammer.
Work harden it using a second hammer on the titanium face and edges, then redress it with a file and light hammer blows to the desired shape. You may have to repeat this from time to time, just to keep it looking good. Happy Blacksmithing!
Came to suggest a needle scaler to harden your hammer. If you felt like going to the trouble of rigging up a little induction furnace inside a chamber you can pump the air out of and fill with nitrogen, you could give nitriding a try.
This might be stupid but why would you not just use another hammer for the work hardening. You could even choose the material for the hardness you need so you don’t damage the titanium hammer but the sacrificial one.
Maybe use one of those air needleers it for removing rust and such but it's like an air Hamer with alot of rods on it
I'd try bead blasting over sand blasting.
refurb looks great, man. I really dig the look of the longer handle and it looks like it feels better too. awesome work as always.
When it comes to handle length, a wise hunk of a hammer making Smith friend of mine said, I'd rather be looking at it than looking for it.
Like you said you can always cut it later.
I wonder if a needle scalier would work, of course you would have to relieve the sharp corners on each needle first before trying it?
A sandblaster might be able to do it if you get a hard enough abrasive and a high enough pressure it would probably take a long time but it might work
I prefer the natural color/finish. Also, if you weren't aware, Ti is susceptible to heat degradation. That's why they are limited in use as pew pew suppressors.
Wonder if a needle scaler would have enough impact to work harden the titanium?
Maybe tumbling with hardened steel ball bearings would work harden it.
I think you should have just left the finish like it was, and it would have been a two tone look. With the old anodized mostly still there, but where you dressed it up, would be the shinny new. I always love that two tone look; old and new.
I’d try a needle scalers for hardening
I was thinking the same thing. I have seen steel shot shooting machines for preparing concrete for resurfacing so could reach out for fun collaboration. However, be fun to set up the needler in a vice and the Hammer below it and let it pound for several hours. Especially if you put some downforce on the needler.
In aviation we surface harden titanium by steel ball bearing peening. Sand blasting, grit blasting, aluminum oxide blasting ect is an abrasive blast and doesn't peen as much as bead or ball blasting. A ball peening machine is a heavy duty thing that you could not just use a regular shop air compressor for, but a bead blaster could. I think it's better to let your hammer face "break in" by itself and a couple times a week polish the face with a scotch bite belt
I think sandblasted Ti has such a cool look and gray color. No, sandblasting won't harden it.
Tim, you could try an air needle scaler to work over the surface or (silly suggestion) what would happen if you used your air power hammer to pound the whole thing when cold?
I like the anodized blue look. Helps it stand out and show off some of the special properties that titanium has that steel does not.
Tim! I remember when you first made that hammer and I thoroughly enjoyed it, I also thought the anodizing process was super cool and interesting. Have you thought about making another titanium hammer? Maybe a different tool instead of a hammer, maybe play around with the anodizing colors too, like have a green titanium axe or a pair of rose gold tongs! Haha just spit balling here, I think it would make for a pretty neat video
I work with titanium grade 4 and 5
everyday where I work. We make various types of parts for a certain industry. We run swiss lathes and before loading the bar you have to chamfer it and if you go to long or at to high of an RPM you will harden it.
It is a beautiful but finicky material!!
Love the hammer.
You should sell them...
Steel shot peening has been an industrial process for surface hardening machine parts for decades.
i wonder if you should just strike the hammer face with another one, really make sure you work harden it evenly
or you could just take the hammer and wail at the anvil for a while and see what happens!
I love the patina of the natural titanium. Don't get me wrong, anodized is cool, but what you have now is spectacular
Could you smack the working faces with a power hammer or press while it’s cold to work harden the surface? I’m not sure about sandblasting, but I’ve used a CO2 laser to surface harden steel, from what I understand it does a combination of temperature hardening and impact hardening on the surface of the material.
That length is PERFECT.
I have a smaller cross peen that I hafted with 16" of handle from the bottom of the head.
I'm NOT a blacksmith, but I use that hammer so very often. I'd rather impart speed than swing weight. Choke up for finer work, slip down for some grunt.
You'll probably need real shot peening to give you a thick enough hardened layer to matter. I just dont think sand will move enough material.
The anodizing looks great when it's a showroom piece. For a work hammer, I like the natural color.
Could you use a well polished steel hammer to hammer on the titanium face and harden it that way? The polished face would leave a smoother finish and you could reorient the steel hammer to better match the curves of the titanium hammer's face, and then maybe just touch it up VERY slightly with a scotchbrite belt
Natural Ti looks cool enough because it definitely looks different than the vastly more common steel and aluminum seen in most shops.
I think I commented on the last video about media blasting and many folks in the comments have corrected my previous comment on your video, yes you would need a medium is heavier in weight per particle than just sand blasting (Honest mistake on my part I'm not particularly familiar at all with this it was just something mentioned to me in an Engineering Class)
In general you would need something harder than the titanium to hit the hammer face with, Steel and glass beads should work, potentially even ceramic shot if you could get it. Tumbling might have some minor effects but I would be weary about hardening anything but the striking face of the hammer as that could cause cracking.
Again please if anyone has more experience in this field do let me know and correct me or add on to what I've said.
You'd need to bead blast it to get that hard surface.
Us tall guys gotta watch our backs. Perhaps you could work harden with one of those air tools that's a bunch of vibrating rods designed to remove scale? Or just pay some kid to stand and hit a clean anvil all day.
You harden most titanium with heat over time. (and often protected by argon or some other nobel gas)
Some of them can workharden a little over time to some degree depending on what kind of titanium you use..
Gr2 is pretty common , but I don´t remember if it´s good for hardening to high HRC..
(think gr7 might get hardest of the common ones, but I don´t remember that one to be forgeable)
But I know it takes alot of time! And a good heatsource with a special atmosphere.
I miss the German guy!!! (by the way)
My opinion only, but I like both looks of the titanium hammer head. The Scotch Brite look is amazing, but also the blue anodized look is really impressive as well. Honestly, I couldn’t choose between the two different hammers. I would flip a coin and enjoy whichever one I got 😊👍 I would love to be able to sample swinging a titanium hammer. Would like to see how it feels 🙂
Timothy! Maybe you should try out making another Titanium hammer and send it off to someone to have it professionally hardened (however that is accomplished for Titanium).
That way you could continue to reap the benefits from working with the Titanium hammer, but have it hardened and last for a lifetime (if thats possible)
Can't you test the hardness of the different regions with those test pencills? I saw them in other videos where they test glasses and things like that.
How about hardening it by hitting it cold with the power hammer?
Dove tail a thin plate of hardened steel into the face of the titanium hammer? or make a Mk2 with the replaceable face etc
I like them both but I've gotta cast my vote for the blue finish. Lotta guys be swinging a hammer, only one has a blue titanium hammer.
What about hardening titanium with sonic oscillation?
Natural titanium color with mirrored finish sides. Walnut wedge. 16" length.
Have you tried your Rockwell hardness tester on the face of your titanium forging hammer?
Test it now, test it one year from now, testit 2 years from now.
It needs a carbon fiber handle, for maximum materials science
Natural titanium all the way. Anodised always reminds me of fake exhaust tips on cars
and cold you do it in the upstater.
I think it’s so cool you made something so unique and used it enough that it wore out and needed some upkeep! More people should use things that they made with their own hands.
Tim, have you considered raising your anvil an inch or two? As tall as you are, it seems like it might be easier on your back and not require you to hunch over so much…
Hopefully you get great use out of it for many more years to come. Can't wait to see more videos soon Timothy. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge Lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
Titanium hammers are always needing new furbs. Re-furbish!
You can work harden the hammer by taking a ball peen hammer to it or the easiest way would be to just take a torch to the hammer. Sadly you would most likely have to make a new handle for the hammer.
Alright so you can't technically work-hardened with sandblasting the weight of the beads simply isn't enough but you can shot blast it now much like sandblasting you're shooting a bunch of particles at the surface of the material the differences in the size and weight of these particles they're usually hardened steel BBs like the type that you would stick in a small air rifle but this doesn't actually harden the material all it does is make it less prone to cracking but what you can do to reliably work-hardened a blacksmithing Hammer is one of two options you can take the Hammer that you want to work harden hit it against the surface of your anvil the entire surface of your anvil with about twenty pounds of force consistently until you hit the entire anvil about twice this is also away some people surface there anvils another much faster is ways to use an air hammer to do the same thing except what you're hitting is the surface of the hammer that you want to work hard and it's not twice you want to go over the surface like 10 to 20 times ear protection is recommended for this
Timothy have you tried to cryo the titanium hammer slowly taking it down to -300f and then slowly bringing up to room temp it works real good on knife blades can't see why it wont work on titanium would make for a good vid cheers from down under
Titanium gets a great looking and damage camoflaging finish off the wire wheel. A durable orange peel texture would be ideal on a blacksmiths hammer. Practice a bit with an off cut to figure what pressure and speed gives you the looks you like. Shot peening might help harden the hammer. ✌ 😃
You say"eh" like a Canadian!!! 👍🇨🇦
If you want to help your posture, why not raise the anvil?
Surface hardening: shot peening!
I was thinking (like a few others) just making a steel block with the inverse of the hammer face then whacking that for a while should harden it and keep it from deforming before its hard
You should make a tungsten hammer or a titanium axe
Can’t wait for a titanium anvil 😂
lots of lovely grinding and polish to do 🎉🎉
I love the natural titanium look.
The natural titanium will always look good to me
Tim,
Another nice video. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
you know you have to make a tungsten hammer now
I really enjoy your videos. I've learned so much. I appreciate your content. Keep up the great work 👍😎
Shot peening should do the trick to harden it.
Ngl - I'm here for the t hammer series
👍👍👍
sand blasting? you mean shot peening?
Amazing content as always!
Aw yeah
Man your life is dope and you do dope shit!
Kyle Royer sent me here.
You use shot peening to work harden metal parts
👋🏻
You seem to be bending at the waist a little too much. Do you think you might try raising your anvil a little, 2" to 3" ? I think your lower back might thank you in the years to come. I also think your hammer strikes might be a little harder. I enjoy your videos very much, take good care & I'll be looking for your next adventures.
Why should we roast you, it's not that the titanium part you made was broken..
Refurbishing is nice too, it's making an old tool just like it was new, better than throwing it away.
shot peening the face?
Too much titanium in the hammer not enough glass compound
first comment again!!!
That hammer is ready to go and looking brand new again. 🫡
Abrasive does not pack enough, but small metal balls do. it is used for that purpose. But not in a tumbler. You have to blast it.
I cried when I saw the thumbnail. but she came out beauty. 👍🏻🇨🇦.
could always flame ano it
I love that hammer Tim. The original finish did look good, but it looks even better with the natural finish. Keep the hammer swinging.
That's very interesting, thanks for the update!
The new look is much better😎😎 case hardening maybe???? Idk that much about titanium
Would a pneumatic scaler(?), not actually sure what it's called, work to work harden it faster? It'd be loud and probably wouldn't be super fast but it might be faster than using it normally...