I had my 16hp Briggs since new for 37 years. Original starter was the Cage type like you have and every few years would have to replace the gear. Then bought a new after market like yours after the original starter died. It ate the gears up to a point I was buying a dozen gears at a time. Since I have added a loader on the tractor it gets used a lot. I bought another after market starter but still did the same. Bought another flywheel with good ring gear. Still did it. About two months ago read on the Wheelhorse forum a guy solved the problem by adding a .090 shim between the engine and starter. I had a .060 thick piece of metal so made a shim. Starter worked good for about 50 starts then gear went. I believe a .090 shim will solve the problem and the gear will get 100% engagement.
So at one point I added two washers because it did look like the gears weren’t lining up completely it may have lasted a little longer but that one still stripped out, maybe that should do a third washer, good idea
Hi Murphy, Yes I discovered the same problem. The original starter motor had a differently sprung cage; like the one you had. I think the original sping cage is more effective at pushing the started gear back away from the flywheel gear. I'll also try to find an original part as this cost me a lot of time replacing those plastic gears each time
I have briggs opposed twin 19hp which was doing the exact same thing...I finally switched to a car battery from walmart with 650cca, haven't had a issue since. just measure your battery compartment to its full limit and measure out walmart batteries to choose which one will fit.
I'm having the same issue. I bought the mower used so I'm not sure if the starter is original or not. The new one stripped within 30 starts or so. And it definitely started at the top when I checked it after only a few starts. I ordered a new one tonight and will shim it down tomorrow when I get it. I'm sure that's the issue. Good luck and thank you for posting this.
@@MurphyMower today's update. I installed the new gear. My starter mounts above the block so I filed the mount down .060". Thoroughly cleaned the flywheel gear and put WD-40 on the gear shaft and flywheel teeth. Then cycled it 20 times for extended cranking periods. The gear still looks brand new after that. I think it's going to be ok. I will update as I find out more. It cranks faster and smoother than it has since I've owned it.
@@MurphyMower over 50 start cycles now and no wear at all on the gear. It was herky jerky on the start sometimes but not at all now. I'm not honestly sure what did it. But no wear at all shown after 50 starts when the last one only had about 30 starts and was wasted. It spends so freely and no kickback at all. I wish I had the definitive answer. But I don't. It cranks so much smoother and faster than ever without kickbacks at all. But if you shim or file to drop the starter it won't hurt. And if you clean the flywheel it won't hurt. Either way it fixed mine.
@@MurphyMower I read that some people have added a .90 steel spacer behind the starter to make it fit looser, this person claimed it added to the life of the gear, I’m going to try that next
Someone did tell me that one time you can change to a metal gear, but you would have to change the flywheel to match it I just bought a set of five and I just swap them out once a year 😬
I am not sure if this is your problem. But there is a 14 tooth gear and a 16 tooth gear the goes on the starter. Maybe your ring gear needs the 14 tooth gear on your starter?
I had my 16hp Briggs since new for 37 years. Original starter was the Cage type like you have and every few years would have to replace the gear. Then bought a new after market like yours after the original starter died. It ate the gears up to a point I was buying a dozen gears at a time. Since I have added a loader on the tractor it gets used a lot. I bought another after market starter but still did the same. Bought another flywheel with good ring gear. Still did it. About two months ago read on the Wheelhorse forum a guy solved the problem by adding a .090 shim between the engine and starter. I had a .060 thick piece of metal so made a shim. Starter worked good for about 50 starts then gear went. I believe a .090 shim will solve the problem and the gear will get 100% engagement.
So at one point I added two washers because it did look like the gears weren’t lining up completely it may have lasted a little longer but that one still stripped out, maybe that should do a third washer, good idea
Hi Murphy, Yes I discovered the same problem. The original starter motor had a differently sprung cage; like the one you had. I think the original sping cage is more effective at pushing the started gear back away from the flywheel gear. I'll also try to find an original part as this cost me a lot of time replacing those plastic gears each time
That’s good information thanks for the reply I’ll do a little more research on the original starter
I have briggs opposed twin 19hp which was doing the exact same thing...I finally switched to a car battery from walmart with 650cca, haven't had a issue since. just measure your battery compartment to its full limit and measure out walmart batteries to choose which one will fit.
That is probably a good idea
Thanks
I'm having the same issue. I bought the mower used so I'm not sure if the starter is original or not. The new one stripped within 30 starts or so. And it definitely started at the top when I checked it after only a few starts. I ordered a new one tonight and will shim it down tomorrow when I get it. I'm sure that's the issue. Good luck and thank you for posting this.
I know a lot of people talk about this issue. It must just simply be a design flaw.
Good luck and thanks for watching
@@MurphyMower today's update. I installed the new gear. My starter mounts above the block so I filed the mount down .060". Thoroughly cleaned the flywheel gear and put WD-40 on the gear shaft and flywheel teeth. Then cycled it 20 times for extended cranking periods. The gear still looks brand new after that. I think it's going to be ok. I will update as I find out more. It cranks faster and smoother than it has since I've owned it.
Keep me updated 😀
@@MurphyMower over 50 start cycles now and no wear at all on the gear. It was herky jerky on the start sometimes but not at all now. I'm not honestly sure what did it. But no wear at all shown after 50 starts when the last one only had about 30 starts and was wasted. It spends so freely and no kickback at all.
I wish I had the definitive answer. But I don't. It cranks so much smoother and faster than ever without kickbacks at all.
But if you shim or file to drop the starter it won't hurt. And if you clean the flywheel it won't hurt. Either way it fixed mine.
Good information- thanks
I have stripped a plastic gear every week, I own multiple starters so that I don’t have to delay using the tractor
I bought a pack of five gears
And I have an extra starter for easy swap as well
@@MurphyMower I read that some people have added a .90 steel spacer behind the starter to make it fit looser, this person claimed it added to the life of the gear, I’m going to try that next
@@MurphyMower I mean a .090 spacer
It's still. Gonna eat gear up they supposed to make a kit change out flywheel to metal and metal gear sad b&s come out with junk like this
Someone did tell me that one time you can change to a metal gear, but you would have to change the flywheel to match it
I just bought a set of five and I just swap them out once a year 😬
I am not sure if this is your problem. But there is a 14 tooth gear and a 16 tooth gear the goes on the starter. Maybe your ring gear needs the 14 tooth gear on your starter?
That is a good thought I’ll need to do additional research on that, thanks
IF YOU PUT THE WRONG GEAR IT WOULD NOT WORK AT ALL .
Try a different gear, maybe it needs a 14 teeth gear instead of a 16.
I did check that it was 16 for sure
I do have a metal 14 tooth gear just does not mesh up with flywheel
There all plastic junk
You don’t have that trouble with Steel