Very good tutorial. I wish other tutorials adopted your style. Methodical and slow, yet concise and efficient. You didn't say "um" once. You didn't click around, flipping the model while you think to yourself about your next step. I used this method to design a shaft collar compression sleeve for three d printing. So keeping everything solid for boolean join was a bonus. Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for the positive feedback and I'm glad it helped you out. It's taken some practice to get to this point, so I'm encouraged to know that it's been effective. And yes, I prefer the approach of working toward a solid model that can also be produced, rather than solely a visual.
Hola Greg! Excelente tutorial. Precisión en el dibujo, diseño funcional, metodología, didáctica, exposición...Todo OK. Lo he seguido paso a paso y he logrado imprimirlo al 200% con total funcionalidad. Gracias Mil.
Thanks Greg! I'm working with Rhino 7 now. Do you think there are any easier ways to create this with the latest version? Much appreciated. You are very clear and thorough!
Brilliant tutorial, thank you Greg. Precise and clear and at a perfect speed to allow construction without having to pause all the time. One question, to create a bit of play and prevent sticking do you need to scale the container thread down slightly in order to 3D print?
Thanks so much Alex...I'm glad it was helpful. By offsetting (Bothsides) the thread profile curve at 6:45 a bit of play (0.12mm) is left between the threads that should allow for a good & functional fit without the need to scale. This will depend on what material and printer you use but SLA and SLS have printed nicely. If you decide to scale, make sure to use Scale 2D (not 3D) from the Top View. Good luck with it!
@@gregsims5218 Hey Greg, thanks for the reply. I went back over your tutorial and I see what you did now, printed perfectly! It's really easy to translate this into other models, thanks again. :)
Make sure that both parts are fully closed by using Analyze>Show Edges... fix and close any naked edges. If still not able to Boolean you can try a very slight 2D scale in the Top view (factor of 0.995) so that the threads overlap further into the container. I hope that helps.
i'm in rhino 7 and do you know why the sweep1 command will cause a distorted two profiles? the only way i can get it to work is to do the first point to the first profile, then the two profiles, then the last profile to the last point. and if i use roadlike it looks very crazy, freeform appears to be pretty good though. thanks!
Thanks for the question… The Sweep 1 command default settings have changed over the years and it can now sometimes give unexpected results. I just realized that the strange result is caused by the ‘direction' (or lack of) of the start point and the end point. In order to get around this you can first use the Point command to manually draw 2 points... (from the Front View) draw 1 at the start and 1 at the end of the spiral. If the points are drawn in the Front view you can use these points as selection profiles when running the command, rather than using the ‘Point’ option within, and you should get the desired result… I hope this helps. Press Enter. Now align all of the profiles, so that they are in the same position. Press Enter. In the pop up dialogue , use the ‘Roadlike’ option and if needed set the axis, by setting 2 points along the same axis of the spiral. And then finish the command by clicking ‘Sweep’.
@@gregsims5218 ahh! it seems like clicking the 'point' option was throwing me off. i didn't even think to select the point by itself. thanks a lot, Greg! Sincerely, Greg
this was indeed one of the best tutorials I have seen about this topic - so well communicated. I had the same issue with the distorted profile result (getting two bumps) - what worked for me was to just use the front view and disregard clicking the (point) option in the command line.. after selecting the spiral I clicked point, top profile, bottom profile, point, and at the end I took care of the orientation.. and that gave me the right result.. initially I tried to just use the start and end points of the sprial but that will produce an error in the bolean operation since it's not overlapping enough ( I guess ) .. thanks again to @gregsims5218 for this amazing tutorial !
Hi thanks this has been very useful turotrial! But I have a problem after creating a mesh object with it for 3D printing. Commanding the ‘mesh repair’ it says “this is a bad mesh” I’ve been trying it for like 4times and can’t seem to figure it out haha. Do u perhaps know what the issue might be?
One of the best CAD tutorials I've ever followed, including throughout uni!
You give the best tutorials! Thank you for the spoken details and Pr perfect illustration of even basic things and procedures.
Very good tutorial. I wish other tutorials adopted your style. Methodical and slow, yet concise and efficient. You didn't say "um" once. You didn't click around, flipping the model while you think to yourself about your next step. I used this method to design a shaft collar compression sleeve for three d printing. So keeping everything solid for boolean join was a bonus. Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for the positive feedback and I'm glad it helped you out. It's taken some practice to get to this point, so I'm encouraged to know that it's been effective. And yes, I prefer the approach of working toward a solid model that can also be produced, rather than solely a visual.
beautiful video
One of the BEST tutorials I've ever seen. Thank you very much!
your tutorials are so clear, thank you!
Thank you! This tutorial was a godsend. So clear, concise and exactly what I needed.
Hola Greg! Excelente tutorial. Precisión en el dibujo, diseño funcional, metodología, didáctica, exposición...Todo OK. Lo he seguido paso a paso y he logrado imprimirlo al 200% con total funcionalidad. Gracias Mil.
best video about thread in rhino! thank you!!!
Thank you Greg for this thoughtful and methodical tutorial. Big Help!
this was extremely helpful! Thank you
very nice specially point ending is new for me. Thanks
Thank you so much for great video! You saved my project. :)
Thank you for this helpful video! What are the steps to export this model for 3d printing? When I turn it into MESH it has a deformation
worked great! thank you!
thank you very much, that is very useful for me.
Thank you for the tutorial!
Thanks Greg! I'm working with Rhino 7 now. Do you think there are any easier ways to create this with the latest version? Much appreciated. You are very clear and thorough!
Brilliant tutorial, thank you Greg. Precise and clear and at a perfect speed to allow construction without having to pause all the time. One question, to create a bit of play and prevent sticking do you need to scale the container thread down slightly in order to 3D print?
Thanks so much Alex...I'm glad it was helpful. By offsetting (Bothsides) the thread profile curve at 6:45 a bit of play (0.12mm) is left between the threads that should allow for a good & functional fit without the need to scale. This will depend on what material and printer you use but SLA and SLS have printed nicely. If you decide to scale, make sure to use Scale 2D (not 3D) from the Top View. Good luck with it!
@@gregsims5218 Hey Greg, thanks for the reply. I went back over your tutorial and I see what you did now, printed perfectly! It's really easy to translate this into other models, thanks again. :)
thanks man!
Fantastic tutorial!!! I have been struggling with screws, this makes my life simple!! Please, what software do you use to record screen? Thanks!
Sorry, I missed this question. I just use the Mac’s QuickTime to record the screen and iMovie to edit.
THANKS A LOT
why i comand the boolean union at very end , it fails ? could you hel me? :(
Make sure that both parts are fully closed by using Analyze>Show Edges... fix and close any naked edges. If still not able to Boolean you can try a very slight 2D scale in the Top view (factor of 0.995) so that the threads overlap further into the container. I hope that helps.
@@gregsims5218 thank you so much!!! Subbed ❤️
i'm in rhino 7 and do you know why the sweep1 command will cause a distorted two profiles? the only way i can get it to work is to do the first point to the first profile, then the two profiles, then the last profile to the last point. and if i use roadlike it looks very crazy, freeform appears to be pretty good though. thanks!
Thanks for the question… The Sweep 1 command default settings have changed over the years and it can now sometimes give unexpected results. I just realized that the strange result is caused by the ‘direction' (or lack of) of the start point and the end point. In order to get around this you can first use the Point command to manually draw 2 points... (from the Front View) draw 1 at the start and 1 at the end of the spiral. If the points are drawn in the Front view you can use these points as selection profiles when running the command, rather than using the ‘Point’ option within, and you should get the desired result… I hope this helps. Press Enter. Now align all of the profiles, so that they are in the same position. Press Enter. In the pop up dialogue , use the ‘Roadlike’ option and if needed set the axis, by setting 2 points along the same axis of the spiral. And then finish the command by clicking ‘Sweep’.
@@gregsims5218 ahh! it seems like clicking the 'point' option was throwing me off. i didn't even think to select the point by itself. thanks a lot, Greg!
Sincerely,
Greg
this was indeed one of the best tutorials I have seen about this topic - so well communicated. I had the same issue with the distorted profile result (getting two bumps) - what worked for me was to just use the front view and disregard clicking the (point) option in the command line.. after selecting the spiral I clicked point, top profile, bottom profile, point, and at the end I took care of the orientation.. and that gave me the right result.. initially I tried to just use the start and end points of the sprial but that will produce an error in the bolean operation since it's not overlapping enough ( I guess ) .. thanks again to @gregsims5218 for this amazing tutorial !
Hi thanks this has been very useful turotrial! But I have a problem after creating a mesh object with it for 3D printing. Commanding the ‘mesh repair’ it says “this is a bad mesh” I’ve been trying it for like 4times and can’t seem to figure it out haha. Do u perhaps know what the issue might be?
If you are able to send a link to the Rhino file, I don't mind having a look at it.
@@gregsims5218 oh wow yeah totally I would really appreciate, should I send you via email?
@@kyungseomin sure send it along to greghsims@gmail.com
Were you able to fix this? I am having the same issue now.
i have a problem . how can i communicate with you?
You can email me at greghsims@gmail.com
do you have this file for download?
No, the file is not available for download.
Thank you for this helpful video! What are the steps to export this for 3d pritning? It deformed when I turned it into MESH