Convert One Piece Crank To Three Piece Crankset/Bottom Bracket
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2015
- I show how to replace 1 piece ("Ashtabula") cranks with modern 3 piece cranks using an adapter. These one piece cranks were mainly found on older American made bikes like Schwinn, Huffy, Ross, etc, BMX bikes, and childrens bikes. The bottom bracket shell is larger and the cups are pressed in. But with adapters, you can install a variety of English threaded bottom brackets like square taper sealed cartridge, Octalink, GXP, Hollowtech, or whatever. I also show how to deal with issues like ridges/obstacles inside the BB shell, and also dealing with a 65mm versus a 68mm BB shell. The benefits are a lighter crankset and also the ability to change to different chainrings. It's a cool upgrade to a vintage bicycle. The inside diameter of Ashtabula is 51.3mm.
The adapter I used is called American To Euro BMX Adapter and was made by Truvativ. Here it is at Amazon: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Here is a similar American To Euro adapter made by Black Ops: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Another one piece crank system is Fauber which has an inside diameter of 45mm. Search google for "Fauber conversion adapter".
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Hi RJ, I just did this to an old Schwinn Varsity. I had a 122.5mm bottom bracket laying around, but the chainline was 55mm with my crankset. I need it to be around 43mm to line up with the center of my freewheel. What length BB will take 12mm off of the drive side? I'm stumped. 98mm is absurd, but 110 only removes 6mm from each side.
what is the part number of adapter? thanks
How to order bottom braket?
Im from philipines.
er so ?
Hi, Rj where did you find the pacers you used ?
I cannot believe that your channel exists with EVERY single video I've needed for building a bike!
Much respect to a man who changes out a bottom bracket in his Homer Simpson slippers. Absolutely here for this! Thank you!
Rj u are the light for us, you show us so many thing that isnt shown anywhere else on youtube!
please continue your content, it is a great service for the fast-rising biking community!
I'm an old man and ride a 1979 Schwinn Collegiate. Loved this video and will be converting to a 3 piece crank. Thanks RJ.
RJ you are The Man! One of my uncles gave me his old Schwinn Traveler to rebuild and upgrade, your videos are a big help they cut down on trial and error part of working on older bikes, thanks for what you do!
Outstanding!! Now I know what to do!! I'm only 70 yrs young...putting it together for my granddaughter...you ARE THE MISSING LINK!!
I just did this project and was able to convert a one-piece to a hollowtech II road crank for my Dad's rat rod! I used a headset press for the drive side cup; a drift fit the inner portion. I also smeared a little bit of grease on each cup prior to install. Unfortunately, I was without Homer slippers. So, the overall job took a hit!
Man, I have to say. Whenever I don‘t know something regarding my bike, I watch your videos. It‘s amazing, your videos are very helpful.
EVERY time I need tips on a tricky bike issue, there he is. My man RJ. Thanks again for the great videos!
Thanks for the video, I am upgrading an old Schwinn and really needed to know how this process works. Also, those slippers are great!
I did this to my schwinn del mar mens cruiser (Walmart) couple years ago and it's working great still !
Thank you for the memories RJ. Bill M.
I want to do the same to my delmar. Do you have any links to the parts you bought? I want to make my Delmar go faster.
Hey RJ, thanks for this video.
I am about to upgrade my old botton bracket to a more modern one like you did on this video.
You job is very informative!
I have a vintage bike from 90's with a press fit just like this and I was wandering how to do the task.
This video helped me a lot!
Thanks!.
I did one of these, but I used a YST US bottom bracket, which basically used the same size cups, but used a square taper axle and these huge cartridge bearings. Runs smooth as butter.
Cool slippers. :) Much less scary than the old ones I think.
I'll watch the rest now...
awesome video! I've been trying to figure out how to put a more modern set of cranks on an old cruiser frame I love. Thanks for sharing!
Pretty good video RJ . I always appreciate it when a how to do it U Tube is not overly long , just to entertain us. When the new shell cups are too long to allow seating up against the frame shell , another viable way to make them fit is to put the new BB threaded bushings in a lathe and face off the required amount to clear the "ridge in the frame shell' . a local small machine shop or networking friend with a lathe in his garage is not too hard to locate. this eliminates the hand grinding on both the frame and the bushing chamfers. OR , a person could also just use spacers , rather than grind or face off in the lathe. The actual " Q factor" or width of the outside dimension on the assembled new parts is not a big deal for most people.
I'll be getting to use a couple adapters to do this next week. Got a new just out of the box beach cruiser today that had something wrong with the crank set from the place I'm assembling bikes at. They didn't want to mess with it, so free is the word of the day for me.
I love your repair videos, R.J. Thanks so much.
Thanks R.J. I needed this so i can change to 3 piece cranks on my bmx
Great video, thanks. I am in the process of adapting a Huffy mtb, I was relieved to see it didn't have a ridge, then I saw that the chainstay tube ends come through and are too close to the outer edge! So i've now got a lot of filing to do, not having any grinding power tools. Truvativ seriously need to modify the design of these adapters!!!
Wow ! Tremendous video ! Thank you so much! Best wishes from Guatemala ! 🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for making bike vids with detailed parts and instructions!!! Your awesome
This video made my bike restoration project much easier - thank you!
Awesome!
Years ago the single piece crank arm of my 1971 Crescent VM Racer broke, thanks to my giant quads 😂. It's a beautiful bike, all original, but sitting in disrepair for nearly 20 years, and 20 years more before it came into my possession. This video has given me a glimmer of hope to someday repair and bring the old goat into the next millennium. So, thank you. However, there's a twist so I'm posting here for others: while it had the Ashtabula single piece crank arm, the bottom bracket was French threaded, not press-in. In this case the fix is to get a French threaded bottom bracket (or Italian, or whatever yours happens to be, as this is the period when manufacturers started switching to three-piece cranks but things hadn't fully standardized). Make sure you get the spindle length needed for your drivetrain. This is a bit more complicated because you won't be able to reference the crank arm offset, since the original was a one-piece. So you'll need to have a set of crank arms and figure out (guess! If you have a spare square spindle BB, this is a lot easier) how much of the spindle they'll engage, and then account for however many chain rings (and spacers, if needed). And again, you'll need a different set of chain rings because the old ones won't work. With the crank arms and chainrings sorted, measure for spindle length, and this should also dial in the chain line. It's complicated. But at least now there's a path forward where before there wasn't.
This channel along with the channel by cjhoyle - are the best bicycle repair channels on youtube.
Thanks a bunch!!! I so happy to know how update my old-fashioned bike )
thank you SO MUCH
I KNEW IT WAS POSSIBLE
ALL THE STORES I WENT TO NEVER EVEN MENTIONED THE POSSIBILITY OF ADAPTERS
Funny they didnt know or just didnt tell you.........but some of the bigger "chain" bike shops are strictly OEM now-days. There were versions of this kit (several ways using both sizes of bearing diameters and sealed or lose) since the late 70's.
Fantastic. I’m learning so much from your videos.
Thanks a lot. Ive been looking for this piece for ages. Thanks a lot.
really awesome, man. super helpful and the only video I've found with this job
I’m only 0:54 into the video, but I had to stop and give you a thanks already. I’ve been wanting to do this exact thing.
Awsome , exactly what I needed ! Thanks a bunch . Cheers from downunder 😃
great video I never knew u could get an adapter for these cranks pretty cool 😉
love the homer slippers,
thanks for the info on this upgrade
Thanks so much for the help! I bought a beautiful 3 piece crank and sprocket but unbeknownst to me the inner diameter of the BB is far larger than the included threaded and sealed bearings so I ended up purchasing a conversion axle which is the same setup as a one piece crank but has a straight axle pressed in and ran through so you can attach and square hole crank arms. I prefer your mother although $30 more it allows you to use a variety more of cranks and better quality!
Cool vid, now I know I can upgrade my old cruiser, thnx. If you put the adapter rings in the freezer for an hour, they might just slip right in a bit easier.
I had same problem with my vintage german bike, bottom bracket cups were pressed too. I couldn't find solution myself, so I brought my bike to my local shop and they installed some kind of bracket with pressed cups. Obviously your solution is better, 'cause you can unscrew the bottom bracket whenever you want and I need to unpress the cups.
thank you so much i was looking if adapters worked for HOURS
Glad my video was able to help.
thank u for the info friend. i have a old huffy single speed bike that im converting to 3 speed & this is a perfect upgrade for me. seeya later
Ducenucom
I have an old Huffy 3 speed, that's currently converted to a single speed, as my daily rider. I love it!
LOVE YOUR HOMER J PIMPSON WORK BOOTS 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Great video. love your homer sipmson slippers. I had the same pair
its cool how bicycles are so modular!
Those old Schwinn frames actually give a nice ride.
Brilliant resurrection. Thank you for posting. Cheers!
Brilliant! I never knew. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for the informational video, really appreciate your work. Thanks
Came here for the old school tech. Stayed for the Homer Simpson house slippers.
Great video, but let me be the first to compliment you on your footwear!
Footwear only a boss can wear.
Thanks a lot. Just what I needed to know. great video.
I like 1 piece cranks. Easy quick maintenance. Long life, after all they did last 20+ years on this bike. New cups and bearings are less than $15.
The only reason I would change to 3 piece is if the chainrings were worn or damaged. Sealed cartridge bearings don't last very long, then you can't easily rebuild.
I have 1 piece cranks on two bikes. 1 is 30 years old, the other was built this year. Totally satisfied with both.
3 piece are generally better quality and much much lighter.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I am 57YO. All we had was 1 piece. I am sure it happens, but i never saw a 1 piece bend, strip out or go bad. Never. I feel the term "quality" is subjective.
As for weight, you may be correct. A 1 piece includes crank arms. Add crank arms to a sealed/3 piece and it may be closer than many think. Plus those who own bikes with 1 piece are generally not that concerned with a few ounces. Heck, my water bottle is 26 oz.
BTW, Your videos are very entertaining and have helped me greatly, thank you.
Yo RJ..I look up every tool and part you use in this crank conversion..I'm doing the old Ross ...very helpful chronology but but spindle measurements might be guess work...Thank you!
R.J. & his Super Steel toe capped Simpson Slippers. :)
Good video! I learned something new. :) Over here in Britain I have only ever seen Apollo branded mountain bikes use the one piece crank set, well and older BMX bikes. I personally prefer to use sealed cartridge BB's as I find they last longer than ordinary caged bearings.
+RandyDarkshade There may be non-American made made bikes with single piece cranks that use different dimensions.
+RandyDarkshade I recently repaired a 12'' Apollo Stinger kids bike lol. It also had an one piece crank as well. Cheers :)
+RandyDarkshade normally your right but those are schwinn bearings, that bike is decades old but those bearings will hold up way better then new sealed which are meant to be replaced. the benefit with the sealed is lighter, initially smoother, and the ability to use more modern cranks.
love this, very informative.
Great video RJ
Thank you body, you videos help me too much I appreciated
Great slippers, man!
Very stylish :)))
nice conversion I will do this one of my 50‘s frame cruiser
SO helpful and useful - thank you.
Thankxz for this video. My old swhinn need convertion.
Love the slippers!!!
That’s awesome! There is hope after all. Thanks!
Great video !
Superb how-to. 👍 I'm going to see if I can mod my brother's Sun trike for a 3-piece setup. Dunno if the cupped parts are removeable.
good video, thanks for educating!
I was unsure of how to set the new BB adapter in the frame, wood block is absolutely the easiest solution
tnx for making this video 😊
Great video! Love the Homer Simpson slippers by the way.
Ashtabula did make those one piece cranks for Schwinn, and they were excellent, Very strong. I used them in BMX way back when, However, while Ross and Huffy did use one piece cranks (lower end models on Ross, most for Huffy) the Ross cranks were made by Wald. OK for their intended purpose, but not as good as the "Schwinn Approved" Ashtabulas. Schwinn cranks had a proprietary thread (28 tpi vs. standard 24 tpi IIRC). Huffy used some other brand that had a weird curve to them, and were a lot thinner and weaker. Removal and installation remained the same.
This is a great video thank you.
Hey RJ, love the videos. I would just add that the BB tapers should not be greased but should be very clean when installing crankarms. The crankarm bolts should be greased-threads and under bolt head. Also I use metal cups for non-drive side so I can tighen them down properly. Plastic cups are a pain, they break all the time, then you have to cut them out.
+MarzNet256 One trick to remove the plastic cups, is to remove the drive side first.
I agree with him, you do not want to grease them. The cranks are pressed on to the spindles and held on by friction. If you grease them, you can pressed them on farther with the same torque, potentially damaging the cranks.
You do what you want. I'll stick with not greasing them and continue that recommendation.
"Most manufacturers (Specialist TA and White Industries being notable exceptions) recommend that square-taper cranks be fitted to the bottom bracket "dry", with no grease or other lubricant. See for example Campagnolo Crankset manual where on page 28 it says "degrease axle and crankset square heads thoroughly".[13] The validity of this is hotly disputed among cyclists, and a source of frequent "holy wars" on Internet discussion groups. Cranks can occasionally seize onto the spindle sufficiently to prevent their removal by a conventional puller, and grease or anti-seize compound at the interface can help to prevent this. One argument against greasing is that the crank may slide too far onto the spindle, reducing the designers' intended chainline and potentially cracking the crank.
Conventional mechanical engineering practice across many industries whenever it involves mating of tapered assemblies requires lubrication to ensure that sufficient "preload" is achieved between the mating parts to prevent them working loose under cyclic loading; this includes lubricating the threaded fastener to ensure sufficient preload is developed in the fastener(s).[citation needed]
Noted wheelbuilding mechanical engineer Jobst Brandt argues in favour of lubrication and mentions factors sometimes overlooked.[14]"
Notice how that says MOST? I agree with "most manufactures". Feel free to contact Campagnolo and tell them that they are wrong.
Thank´s for this vid, subscribed :)
Pro tip, spacers on the non drive side of an internal bottom bracket are a major no go. Better to use an etype bottom bracket that has the added thread on the drive side to achieve your 3mm there. The non drive side cup is tapered on the inside to alow for some small variation in shell width by spacing that cup out you may not be able to properly stabilize the non drive side of the bottom bracket. If using external bearing bottom spacers can be use on either side but overall width on external bearing setups is much more critical for bearing preload
Great! Thank you RJ.
Nice work
Love the homer slippers
Great video RJ , my regards to Homer
Another great video, I came across as I need to switch my friend`s Huffy to BSA. I want to add, that you have to keep in view, what type of a crankset you remove, and the dropout space as well , to stay with a true chainline. For example, you have to kep it in mind, if you re about to switch 3х6 drivetrain to a single speed, which is common solution for that old type bikes. Thank you RJ!
I like this video but prefer the one piece cranksets. I've been able to find a lot of chainring sizes from 25T to 50T. The simple one piece can be rebuild quickly with common tools.
Great. Thank you for this Video!
Nice video.
thanks for the video!
Excellent very helpful.
Dura-Ace ready ! Spruce that old frame right up !
Have you ever tried to convert from a chain drive to a gates carbon belt drive and if so I have a retro style cruiser that I'm trying to convert if you have any information on are or curious on how to do it and can do there a video for it would be great
I haven’t bought a chain set yet I have an Ashtabula and the back wheel is Shimano nexus 3 with a coaster brake. The bottom bracket is probably 68mm but I have bad eyesight and only a tape to measure it by, I just want to make sure the chainwheel is going to be inline with my back end
can I ask something can I just keep all the parts from my one piece cranks and keep all bearings everything and just clean it then just put 3 piece cranks?
Buddy from Colombia has cool bikes but wants to convert his old schwinn 10 speed and found this video in a second because Im subscribed. Thanks so much. Any advice on getting a good chainline for wanting that ten speed to be a single speed?
Thanks man!!
Do the spacers come with the new crank parts? If not, how are they sized?
very useful just incase i got to rebore bottom crank after manufacturers cross freading i will see how the bike go with it cross freading cheers
What is the inner and outer diameters of that adapter, 51.3 mm and ? I want to see if I can use one on my eccentric bottom bracket frame 54 mm.
Thanks again RJ
I have a question, I have similar shell like that one but it uses cottered cranks. Can I just simply replace it with a square taper spindle axle?
I am in the process of replacing my crankset on a 3 speed bicycle. Mostly worried about spindle length.
And is there any way I could measure my one piece crank to find out the length of the spindle I'll need?
Great video thanks. I have a 1971 Schwinn
I have a 1971 Schwinn super sport. What would be the best BB and crankset for this conversion? Thanks
Probably a sealed cartridge. BB. But after that, it's up to.
if my bottom bracket width is 68mm (roughly) what width of crankset should i go with?
i have an bmx bike that uses a one piece crankset and it is just a pain to service for me as i dont have a good spanner / wrench for it as it broke so doing this would help a lot for me
my question is can i convert it to be able to pedal backwards so that i can add a motor to it without having to just toss the pedals and add a foot mount instead because i would like the option to pedal but im trying to convert this Murray cruiser into an ebike for my gf and its my first time even coming in contact with a bike this old its around 60.
This is awesome. Thank you so much. I have the same bike! Any advice to convert it to a single speed?