I saved this video about a year ago for when the time came. Well, finally it was time. Used this video for guidance, and it is spot on. Thank you so much.
Watching this video confirmed that I made the right decision years ago when I quit being a small engine mechanic. That so simple and routine a job as replacing a thermostat requires so many steps clearly attests to the fact that things have gotten out of control in the world of outboard engines! You mechanics have my complete sympathy...
Thank you! great video. Just performed the thermostat change and followed your steps to a tee. No issues at all except that my 4 year old thermostats were in really great shape. Changed them anyway since I know how to do them myself know. Will attempt the internal anodes now on the same outboard. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video, about to do mine this weekend, very helpful. Wish I would have thought about doing the thermostats while I have the motor apart to do the timing belt, I had most of the reassembly completed before I realized I had to take the top cable/hose tray back apart again. :-)
Everything went smoothly until I went to the starboard side. When pulling the thermostat out of the housing the pliers slipped and broke the TPS sensor. Going to order a new sensor. Is there a video on how to adjust it? Thanks
I have the same engine just went to four strokes after decades of two strokes. I was lucky I had one of the good ETEC 08 250. I’m looking at replacing the anodes and I believe I see in the manual that there’s one on the inside of the thermostat houses. I was watching your video and appears that it might be there there’s like red lock tight or Mark on the bolt . Any thoughts for a new fore stroker? Thanks, Capt, Rick.
Any ideas about same motor overheating at idle rpm? good pressure at 4k and putting around. let idle for 5mins and the buzzer goes off. Tell tale has a good steam but seems like it used to be a little stronger at idle. new impeller too.
It gets pressurized by the spinning of the gears inside of the lower unit. They spin at such high speeds it pushes the lubricant throughout the gearcase and builds pressure at the same time. It's not a ton of pressure, maybe like 10 psi or so, the exact pressure I don't know. We usually only pressure test the gear case up to around 12 psi but not much more than that or it will just push the lube past the seals
thanks for the video. is there anyway you can make a video how to change the timing belt on the f225 . what is the service interval for the timing belt. thanks again.
Thank you! Eventually we will get a video for that, just haven't done one for a while. They are to be changed at 1000 hours. A lot of people change the tensioner at the same time.
I just did the timing belt on my F225, it was not bad at all. The hardest part is the 174ft-lb torque of the flywheel nut. They make a special tool for holding the flywheel, but I wasn't buying it for a 1 time job. While the hose/cable tray was still off the engine, I was able to secure a ratchet strap around the flywheel, connecting the hooks to the front lifting eye bracket to add some extra tension on the flywheel to help with the spinning while torquing the nut, I am not a fan of the tooth locking tools to prevent the flywheel from spinning, so I was using the most mechanical advantage ideas I could without putting the flywheel teeth in danger. The belt is only $115. Just make sure you mark the crank and cam gears so the engine stays in time. The other video Born Again Boating made for timing belts is very helpful as well as far as the procedure on a similar motor. The F225 does not have the belt guides, so no need to use feeler gauges like the bigger Yamaha's..
Something told me to put tape over that breather hose. I did. 10 minutes later I dropped a bolt and it bounced right off of my tape.. not sure where my bolt could have gone?!
If an outboard has a new water pump, pees hard but still runs warm, would you lean towards thermostats? I have a 250EFI 2stroke Merc. I just changed my water pump impeller, housing, baseplate and gaskets. Solid stream from the telltale but it still runs warm, doesn’t over heat. It settles at about 3/4 temperature. I took the thermostats out and ordered new ones. They look okay to me, but I don’t know what boat thermostats should look like.
That would be the right place to start. It sounds like it is getting good water flow judging from the telltale. Now you say 3/4 temperature? Is that based on an analog gauge on the console? If so, it could be the gauge failing or a wiring issue that is giving that reading as well, and the engine temperature is fine. You can verify that by running the engine and checking it with a temperature gun and see what the actual temperature is. You can also unbolt the thermostat housings and leave them off. Start and run the engine and watch to see if water comes out of the thermostat holes. Just to make sure water is getting to the thermostats. Then shut the engine off really quickly after you see the water. You could also just hook up the flush hose and turn it on and see if the water comes out, that could work too. But if everything is based off an analog temp gauge on the dash, it's most likely an issue with the gauge than the engine! Hope this helps!
Born Again Boating, thank you! It is an analog gauge. I will double check that. I took the thermostats out right after running the engine and they were warm and wet so I’m pretty sure the water is getting to them. Thanks for the tip on the gauge, I would have been chasing my tail. Is it the gauge that goes bad or the sensor that it’s connected to?
Sounds like there is water getting to the thermostats and your engine probably isn't running too hot. Usually, it's the gauge or the wiring. Sometimes the gauge just starts to build resistance or lose resistance and give you a reading that's a little off. Most likely it's the gauge, but it could also be a wiring issue or the sensor. Usually you can get temp gauges for pretty cheap!
Take it for a run leaving the thermostats out . if you don't want to test or buy new ones . if stays cold that's your problem . fit new thermostats there in there for a reason
@@charlesbalfour6544 yes, generally you will be able to hook them up if they are normal multifunction gauges. Or even if they are analog. I'm guessing they are normal yamaha multifunction gauges and they will work
Are you suggesting that Yamaha has a design flaw? Thermostat housing gasket? The rubber gasket on the thermostat is the only gasket here. The new thermostats come with a new rubber gasket on them ;) Thanks for letting us know though!
I saved this video about a year ago for when the time came. Well, finally it was time. Used this video for guidance, and it is spot on. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped!
Watching this video confirmed that I made the right decision years ago when I quit being a small engine mechanic. That so simple and routine a job as replacing a thermostat requires so many steps clearly attests to the fact that things have gotten out of control in the world of outboard engines! You mechanics have my complete sympathy...
Thank you! great video. Just performed the thermostat change and followed your steps to a tee. No issues at all except that my 4 year old thermostats were in really great shape. Changed them anyway since I know how to do them myself know. Will attempt the internal anodes now on the same outboard. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video, about to do mine this weekend, very helpful. Wish I would have thought about doing the thermostats while I have the motor apart to do the timing belt, I had most of the reassembly completed before I realized I had to take the top cable/hose tray back apart again. :-)
I love your videos. Thank you for showing these.
Everything went smoothly until I went to the starboard side. When pulling the thermostat out of the housing the pliers slipped and broke the TPS sensor. Going to order a new sensor. Is there a video on how to adjust it? Thanks
Excellent video! Thank you.
How about a water pass cleaning when the foots off an take stants out put covers back on 6 hour cleaning bilge pump in a bucket.
I have the same engine just went to four strokes after decades of two strokes. I was lucky I had one of the good ETEC 08 250. I’m looking at replacing the anodes and I believe I see in the manual that there’s one on the inside of the thermostat houses. I was watching your video and appears that it might be there there’s like red lock tight or Mark on the bolt . Any thoughts for a new fore stroker? Thanks, Capt, Rick.
Thanks for the video , made the repair easy for me.
Awesome! You're welcome! Thank you!
Any ideas about same motor overheating at idle rpm? good pressure at 4k and putting around. let idle for 5mins and the buzzer goes off. Tell tale has a good steam but seems like it used to be a little stronger at idle. new impeller too.
You might want to drop the lower and look at the midsection to make sure it isn't rotting away :(
I’ve never heard someone say yami and that’s why your are cool
Good morning. I really like your videos, I would like to ask a question.
How does a lower unit gear oil get pressureized? What is the source of the pressure
It gets pressurized by the spinning of the gears inside of the lower unit. They spin at such high speeds it pushes the lubricant throughout the gearcase and builds pressure at the same time. It's not a ton of pressure, maybe like 10 psi or so, the exact pressure I don't know. We usually only pressure test the gear case up to around 12 psi but not much more than that or it will just push the lube past the seals
thanks for the video. is there anyway you can make a video how to change the timing belt on the f225 . what is the service interval for the timing belt. thanks again.
Thank you! Eventually we will get a video for that, just haven't done one for a while. They are to be changed at 1000 hours. A lot of people change the tensioner at the same time.
I just did the timing belt on my F225, it was not bad at all. The hardest part is the 174ft-lb torque of the flywheel nut. They make a special tool for holding the flywheel, but I wasn't buying it for a 1 time job. While the hose/cable tray was still off the engine, I was able to secure a ratchet strap around the flywheel, connecting the hooks to the front lifting eye bracket to add some extra tension on the flywheel to help with the spinning while torquing the nut, I am not a fan of the tooth locking tools to prevent the flywheel from spinning, so I was using the most mechanical advantage ideas I could without putting the flywheel teeth in danger. The belt is only $115. Just make sure you mark the crank and cam gears so the engine stays in time. The other video Born Again Boating made for timing belts is very helpful as well as far as the procedure on a similar motor. The F225 does not have the belt guides, so no need to use feeler gauges like the bigger Yamaha's..
Something told me to put tape over that breather hose. I did. 10 minutes later I dropped a bolt and it bounced right off of my tape.. not sure where my bolt could have gone?!
If an outboard has a new water pump, pees hard but still runs warm, would you lean towards thermostats?
I have a 250EFI 2stroke Merc. I just changed my water pump impeller, housing, baseplate and gaskets. Solid stream from the telltale but it still runs warm, doesn’t over heat. It settles at about 3/4 temperature. I took the thermostats out and ordered new ones. They look okay to me, but I don’t know what boat thermostats should look like.
That would be the right place to start. It sounds like it is getting good water flow judging from the telltale. Now you say 3/4 temperature? Is that based on an analog gauge on the console? If so, it could be the gauge failing or a wiring issue that is giving that reading as well, and the engine temperature is fine. You can verify that by running the engine and checking it with a temperature gun and see what the actual temperature is. You can also unbolt the thermostat housings and leave them off. Start and run the engine and watch to see if water comes out of the thermostat holes. Just to make sure water is getting to the thermostats. Then shut the engine off really quickly after you see the water. You could also just hook up the flush hose and turn it on and see if the water comes out, that could work too. But if everything is based off an analog temp gauge on the dash, it's most likely an issue with the gauge than the engine! Hope this helps!
Born Again Boating, thank you! It is an analog gauge. I will double check that. I took the thermostats out right after running the engine and they were warm and wet so I’m pretty sure the water is getting to them. Thanks for the tip on the gauge, I would have been chasing my tail. Is it the gauge that goes bad or the sensor that it’s connected to?
Sounds like there is water getting to the thermostats and your engine probably isn't running too hot. Usually, it's the gauge or the wiring. Sometimes the gauge just starts to build resistance or lose resistance and give you a reading that's a little off. Most likely it's the gauge, but it could also be a wiring issue or the sensor. Usually you can get temp gauges for pretty cheap!
Born Again Boating, already ordered one for $30. Thank you!
Take it for a run leaving the thermostats out . if you don't want to test or buy new ones . if stays cold that's your problem . fit new thermostats there in there for a reason
4:09 Your screwdriver looks huge!!1 Had to do a double take....lol
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Good morning great video.. I have a question about this same type motor
Good morning! What's your question well see if we can help!
@@BornAgainBoating I have some yahama gauges that is for the f250 can that work on the f225
@@charlesbalfour6544 yes, generally you will be able to hook them up if they are normal multifunction gauges. Or even if they are analog.
I'm guessing they are normal yamaha multifunction gauges and they will work
@@BornAgainBoating they are 6y8f gauges the plug that hooks up to the motor is different
@@BornAgainBoating is there a pig tail that I can purchase that can solve my problem?
0:46 (insert taco bell joke)
Funny how you neglect to shoe how you got the port side thermostat housing out of the way to remove the thermostat
Nice... video...
Go back and do it all again. this time put new gaskets on thermostat housing . shoddy job to save next to nothing . do it once do it right!!!
Are you suggesting that Yamaha has a design flaw? Thermostat housing gasket? The rubber gasket on the thermostat is the only gasket here. The new thermostats come with a new rubber gasket on them ;) Thanks for letting us know though!
There is no seperate gasket.
The t-stat has a rubber seal on it..