Oh gosh! I wish I had seen this video 2 days ago when I was casting some figurines and failed a bunch of times because of little air bubbles in tough-to-reach places. That little screw-head cast trick with the awl was brilliant and I'm sure it will solve my problem! You're awesome!
I have got to try roto casting one of these days, looks like a blast! So many great tips in this one, thanks for sharing the inside scoop on everything. I probably wouldn't think to do a thin layer or fill in the small details first, but now I know!! Awesome as usual Bill :)
Nice video as always, Bill... I am getting prepared to dive into 3D printing. And you are demonstrating the patience it takes for this to make each piece properly. And hello, Jeff.
I definitely will... the printer I am getting is the Da Vinci Pro with the laser engraver... Now I can show my characters with Unity, Unreal 4, and real life...
Nice Bill, really enjoyed this! I'll have to try slush casting someday. Another technique for those tricky screw heads would be to gently squeeze them with needlenose pliers or forceps while submerged in resin purging the air and then being replaced by resin. Just a thought.
Damn, premixing the tint into the whole container of side B is rad idea! One of the things I do that seems to really help with surface bubbles is powder the mold before hand. I blow out any excess powder with the compressor before pouring resin.
Hey Bill @ 13:00 you use an eyedropper to put resin in the the screw head, you might want to look into Leviton epoxy syringes with blunt needles. We use them for fiber optic connectors to insert whatever epoxy we use in connectors to terminate fiber for computer networks. I think you can get them cheap plus if a needle gets clogged you can just put on a new one, or if the syringe gets clogged you can use a new one. Who knows where else it might come in handy. I just found this @ Amazon - www.amazon.com/Empty-Industrial-Syringe-0-9mm-Blunt/dp/B00FXAI09U.
A better way to do the screwheads might be to poke the awl into the hole first, then drip the resin over the screwhead. When you pull the awl out, the resin will be sucked down into the hole.
Add some pvc to Jeff’s pressure outlet and run it through some foam to dictate the pressure without knocking down any dust. Think of it as a kind of silencer for your pressure pot.
You probably get this question all the time, but hey I am new to casting game, anyways.. What is the best way to store silicone molds? do you wrap it up in plastic wrap or anything?
The resin cures white without tint. So if you put red in to a white curing resin you get pink, etc. There are color match resins that do not cure white.
Bill at 13:20 get yourself a Doll needle (very large needle) it'll make popping the bubbles easer (also the size of the needle help for hand being away from the Mold )
i have a question, because you said that you have to poke all the bubbles out of those tiny holes. can't you tap the out with tapping the mold a few times on a table or something like that?
Really enjoy your videos! And just placed an order for those graduated Dixie cups. Brilliant! Why do you use the clear plastic cups for mixing? Petroleum based and non- recyclable. Why not med- sized paper solo cups? How did Britt's comic con cosplay come out?
Quick question about roto-casting with urethane resin, How strong is the 3 layers regarding crush resistance or any sort of breakage in general? Is there something cheaper that you can fill it with for extra strength?
Unrelated to this specific vid, but I have a question about vacuum forming. I have a 3d printed Batman cowl helmet and I really want it to perfectly match my pleather cape and headsock. Could I vacuum form pleather over the two halves with glue on them? Would the material pull into all the nooks and crannies?
pressure collapses the bubbles. using vacuum would make any bubbles that weren't pulled out larger, and could lead to spillage. vacuum is better for rubbers.
The Smooth-On site says 325 is "Clear Amber". Your lenses look very clear. Have you ever gotten amber ones without tint? I need clear casts for my project.
I don't need them super clear I just don't want them amber color. I ordered Epoxicast 690 but would have gotten Smooth Cast 325 after watching your video. Thanks for the replies.
Hi Bill! I'm planning to make a motion tracker from Alien Isolation but it's my first real project and I don't know what materials to use. I don't have any machines or shop tools but would it be a good idea to make it out of thin wood? Just want your opinion on this, you inspire me to go out and try prop making!
Hi , please I need some Help to create Mold for steel valve 2 inch in diameter , i have some images if you need for more clarification. thanks in advance
How did you ensure the clear came out shiny? I want to cast something in clear that I’ll make out of either monster clay or Apoxie but I need it to come our shiny because it will be too awkward a shape to sand and buff. If you have any tips it would really help. I’m thinking of using Oomoo silicone and gradually cast art resin brand or ecopoxy brand. Or I’ll try this roto method at least for the first layer. How can I make it so it comes out glossy? Varnish Apoxie resin or some other clay ? Thanks
Whatever finish you get on your sculpt is the finish you'll get in the silicone. So if you make your mold master super smooth and shiny, that's how the mold will come out. Apoxie sculpt will probably be easier to buff and polish for a super glossy finish.
So uh if i give you a photo of some designs I've drawn do you think you could make patterns and give them for free on your shop? Or even make a model of it and give it away to some fan?
Quick question! I just started casting and am using nice smooth-on grade stuff like you, but i noticed you don't use their mold release. Any particular reason why? Do i even need it?
Hi. I have a weird question that I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere online. I have constructed a series of sculpted foam cubes out of extruded polystyrene foam. I'm wanting to make silicone molds of said foam, so I can in turn make solid resin molds of these pieces. They would only be single part molds, as I don't need the bottoms of the pieces to be molded. Is it safe to put the polystyrene foam into a silicone molding material or will there be a chemical reaction that spells my demise?
Jade Hudson I think the surface of the polystyrene is too porous. the silicone will grip onto the surface really well and demolding might be hard. I'd coat the polystyrene first. I had good results with PVA glue (regular white wood glue). thin the glue with water for the first layers. it gives a smooth surface that you can do all kinds of work to (bondo, paint, clearcoat, etc) without having to worry about solvents destroying the polystyrene.
Hey, you don't sell Mr. Handy model kits do you? All I can find online are 3d printed ones. They're okay but I'd have to spend hours cleaning it up and even then it wont have the same amount of detail yours does. I'd love to buy one if you're selling some.
There are food safe silicones and resins, yes. I don't know what they are off the top of my head, but if you look for FDA approved materials, that should work for ya.
+Punished Props my only thought there is that you only have so much scrap you can use for yourself. I know I already have more little filigree bits made from extra resin than I will ever use. xP
It really comes down to how well you prep your piece before making a mold. If you polish something to a high gloss, smooth finish, the silicone will replicate that.
@@punishedprops thank you and i really appreciate that you all get back to questions and comments i know its a lot with so many people in the community its great to see our voices are heard
I usually let it cure over night. It says 24 hours curing time, but I find 8-16 hours USUALLY does the trick if it's in a warm place while it's curing. Your results may vary. You can use their Fast Cat catalyst to speed up the cure time.
I have been searching for a how to make pharahs gun for the longest time. it would mean the world to me if you were the ones. i would pay up too 100 dollars (im young) for it
Why not just weld a clamp on a drill bit and then clamp the drill to the bench to turn the cast for you? And if you need to have it be a little more of a 3D type motion put some bearings on the clamp arms holding the fixture and a weight on the bottom so as it spits it flops back and fourth. Or... Just buy that rotocasting machine :D
Isn't 300 pot life 3mins??? How the hell did u have so much time before it turned In the begging of video? Does color added extend pot time or did you use 310? Maybe it's movie magic
The pot life is a lot longer if the resin is super thin, like the brushed on coat I used at the beginning of the video. If it were all massed up in a cup, it would kick much quicker.
Punished Props U are so awesome for taking time to reply 2 me and being able to read my misspelling lol! I never even thought about that but that will help with the small 2 part molds with undercuts i use! I do more Gundam / scale robots models like my profile pic, and I have really learned a lot from you and I love how u present the information! I do 2 part molds without a vacuum so I use 2 (whispers DILDO's) on a make shift table which helps bring bubbles in silicone, but I'm going to try star15 soon! Anyways I'm long winded but just wanted to say thanks a ton!
Other than a couple pails of reoflex I got for some concrete casting and a jug of release I have made due with the kits you can find at Blik but Smooth on usually has a product specifically suited for whichever project you are doing and their entire product line isn't available in stores so I find it difficult to justify an order unless I am going to make a decent amount of money off of it. After building the machines, 3D printing, foamsmithing and vacuforming are a lot cheaper to play around with. I wish casting was as approachable.
Oh gosh! I wish I had seen this video 2 days ago when I was casting some figurines and failed a bunch of times because of little air bubbles in tough-to-reach places. That little screw-head cast trick with the awl was brilliant and I'm sure it will solve my problem! You're awesome!
I have got to try roto casting one of these days, looks like a blast! So many great tips in this one, thanks for sharing the inside scoop on everything. I probably wouldn't think to do a thin layer or fill in the small details first, but now I know!! Awesome as usual Bill :)
Nice video as always, Bill... I am getting prepared to dive into 3D printing. And you are demonstrating the patience it takes for this to make each piece properly. And hello, Jeff.
I definitely will... the printer I am getting is the Da Vinci Pro with the laser engraver... Now I can show my characters with Unity, Unreal 4, and real life...
Thank you Bill for everything you do.
I was just received my clay today so I can start making molds and casting.
Nice Bill, really enjoyed this! I'll have to try slush casting someday. Another technique for those tricky screw heads would be to gently squeeze them with needlenose pliers or forceps while submerged in resin purging the air and then being replaced by resin. Just a thought.
Never done some casting, but I sure must give it a go sometimes
Nice Video! Interesting to see which techniques you use for different bits!
Awesome job Bill! :D Was really fun and relaxing to watch this.
Better later than never - thanks for the tips about bubble-free rotocasting!
Damn, premixing the tint into the whole container of side B is rad idea!
One of the things I do that seems to really help with surface bubbles is powder the mold before hand. I blow out any excess powder with the compressor before pouring resin.
Frank is loaded with good tips!
Would absolutely buy a Mr. Handy kit :)
Hey Bill @ 13:00 you use an eyedropper to put resin in the the screw head, you might want to look into Leviton epoxy syringes with blunt needles. We use them for fiber optic connectors to insert whatever epoxy we use in connectors to terminate fiber for computer networks. I think you can get them cheap plus if a needle gets clogged you can just put on a new one, or if the syringe gets clogged you can use a new one. Who knows where else it might come in handy. I just found this @ Amazon - www.amazon.com/Empty-Industrial-Syringe-0-9mm-Blunt/dp/B00FXAI09U.
Just realized you reached over 100k subs, Congrats!
A better way to do the screwheads might be to poke the awl into the hole first, then drip the resin over the screwhead. When you pull the awl out, the resin will be sucked down into the hole.
Is there any way for someone to get a casting of your Mr. Handy?
Add some pvc to Jeff’s pressure outlet and run it through some foam to dictate the pressure without knocking down any dust. Think of it as a kind of silencer for your pressure pot.
You probably get this question all the time, but hey I am new to casting game, anyways.. What is the best way to store silicone molds? do you wrap it up in plastic wrap or anything?
Stupid question, why does the resin go in black and come out gray? :D
The resin cures white without tint. So if you put red in to a white curing resin you get pink, etc. There are color match resins that do not cure white.
Bill at 13:20 get yourself a Doll needle (very large needle) it'll make popping the bubbles easer (also the size of the needle help for hand being away from the Mold )
Thanks for the tip!
i have a question, because you said that you have to poke all the bubbles out of those tiny holes. can't you tap the out with tapping the mold a few times on a table or something like that?
Really enjoy your videos! And just placed an order for those graduated Dixie cups. Brilliant! Why do you use the clear plastic cups for mixing? Petroleum based and non- recyclable. Why not med- sized paper solo cups?
How did Britt's comic con cosplay come out?
Quick question about roto-casting with urethane resin, How strong is the 3 layers regarding crush resistance or any sort of breakage in general? Is there something cheaper that you can fill it with for extra strength?
when I've done slush casting and the mould has a little hole like that, I cover it with a strip of masking tape to prevent any dribbles
Is there a way to rotocast with clear epoxy? I been trying to find a way but even uv resin doesnt work out well...
Precious tips ❤️
Is there any danger of separation of the two layers when you brush on that first layer to capture the detail and then roto cast over top?
I use toothpicks to pop my bubbles. Cheap and disposable. Nice videos!
Smart!
Unrelated to this specific vid, but I have a question about vacuum forming.
I have a 3d printed Batman cowl helmet and I really want it to perfectly match my pleather cape and headsock. Could I vacuum form pleather over the two halves with glue on them? Would the material pull into all the nooks and crannies?
I wish a company would make those mixing cups with the print on the inside of the cup already
The Smoothcast 325 you put under pressure? Wouldn't it be better if you pulled a vacuum on it to make sure it cures clear?
pressure collapses the bubbles. using vacuum would make any bubbles that weren't pulled out larger, and could lead to spillage. vacuum is better for rubbers.
Quick question. Why pressure cast instead of Vacuum casting?
I have a question regarding bondo and clay. Is there a clay that I can use with bondo in small spots to sculpt some more details. Thanks....
The Smooth-On site says 325 is "Clear Amber". Your lenses look very clear. Have you ever gotten amber ones without tint? I need clear casts for my project.
I don't need them super clear I just don't want them amber color. I ordered Epoxicast 690 but would have gotten Smooth Cast 325 after watching your video.
Thanks for the replies.
Hi Bill!
I'm planning to make a motion tracker from Alien Isolation but it's my first real project and I don't know what materials to use. I don't have any machines or shop tools but would it be a good idea to make it out of thin wood? Just want your opinion on this, you inspire me to go out and try prop making!
Hi , please I need some Help to create Mold for steel valve 2 inch in diameter , i have some images if you need for more clarification. thanks in advance
Wouldn't a vacuum be better to get the bubbles out instead of shrinking them?
How did you ensure the clear came out shiny? I want to cast something in clear that I’ll make out of either monster clay or Apoxie but I need it to come our shiny because it will be too awkward a shape to sand and buff. If you have any tips it would really help. I’m thinking of using Oomoo silicone and gradually cast art resin brand or ecopoxy brand. Or I’ll try this roto method at least for the first layer. How can I make it so it comes out glossy? Varnish Apoxie resin or some other clay ? Thanks
Whatever finish you get on your sculpt is the finish you'll get in the silicone. So if you make your mold master super smooth and shiny, that's how the mold will come out. Apoxie sculpt will probably be easier to buff and polish for a super glossy finish.
How about a link (affiliate is fine) for all the cool mixing cups you use?
They look like medical urine sample cups!
So uh if i give you a photo of some designs I've drawn do you think you could make patterns and give them for free on your shop? Or even make a model of it and give it away to some fan?
What is the best website for cool prop kits?
2021, you got that roto casting machine yet?
That's a good idea, tinting the gallon.
Quick question! I just started casting and am using nice smooth-on grade stuff like you, but i noticed you don't use their mold release. Any particular reason why? Do i even need it?
gotcha! So mold release is more for the mold releasing from itslef, not an object realeasing from the mold?
Hi. I have a weird question that I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere online. I have constructed a series of sculpted foam cubes out of extruded polystyrene foam. I'm wanting to make silicone molds of said foam, so I can in turn make solid resin molds of these pieces. They would only be single part molds, as I don't need the bottoms of the pieces to be molded. Is it safe to put the polystyrene foam into a silicone molding material or will there be a chemical reaction that spells my demise?
Jade Hudson I think the surface of the polystyrene is too porous. the silicone will grip onto the surface really well and demolding might be hard. I'd coat the polystyrene first. I had good results with PVA glue (regular white wood glue). thin the glue with water for the first layers. it gives a smooth surface that you can do all kinds of work to (bondo, paint, clearcoat, etc) without having to worry about solvents destroying the polystyrene.
the links only show a smaller portion of the 300, is there one with the volume you have?
Perfect thanks!
Have you ever done a multishot resin casting tutorial
I have not.
Hey, you don't sell Mr. Handy model kits do you? All I can find online are 3d printed ones. They're okay but I'd have to spend hours cleaning it up and even then it wont have the same amount of detail yours does. I'd love to buy one if you're selling some.
Well thanks for the quick reply. Guess I'll have to try and follow your tutorials! Love your work by the way.
There a food safe casting material to pu
Our into a silicone mold preferably good safe urethane that's rigid too?
There are food safe silicones and resins, yes. I don't know what they are off the top of my head, but if you look for FDA approved materials, that should work for ya.
@@punishedprops polyurethane says food safe but does that mean that the resin is?
Awesome
very informative! but why did you end up using smoothcast 325 instead of for example the clearcast?
and the quality is the same? I'm currently using clearcast but if it's the same or better I'll just switch haha
hey bill...where did you get "JEFF" from? and do you ever use silicone/urethane mold release when casting parts instead of powder
On the subject of spare parts casts: You could make some common steampunk greebles and then just sell them online. no more waste. :P
+Punished Props my only thought there is that you only have so much scrap you can use for yourself. I know I already have more little filigree bits made from extra resin than I will ever use. xP
A light smearing of petroleum jelly on the screw-cap will stop the bottle getting crusty.
Did you build "JEFF" from a converted paint pot?
Bill how do you get the high gloss finish on your silicone mold for the lenses?
It really comes down to how well you prep your piece before making a mold. If you polish something to a high gloss, smooth finish, the silicone will replicate that.
@@punishedprops thank you and i really appreciate that you all get back to questions and comments i know its a lot with so many people in the community its great to see our voices are heard
Did you put mold release first before pouring the resin?
Yes. We use baby powder as a mold release.
What brand of Pressure pot if ol' Jeff?
the mold max 30, did you let the cure for the full 24hr? Im making a 2 part mold.
I usually let it cure over night. It says 24 hours curing time, but I find 8-16 hours USUALLY does the trick if it's in a warm place while it's curing. Your results may vary. You can use their Fast Cat catalyst to speed up the cure time.
How do stop paint from cracking
if I don't have a pressure pot, is there a way I can avoid getting bubbles when casting 325 resin?
I have been searching for a how to make pharahs gun for the longest time. it would mean the world to me if you were the ones. i would pay up too 100 dollars (im young) for it
Why not just weld a clamp on a drill bit and then clamp the drill to the bench to turn the cast for you? And if you need to have it be a little more of a 3D type motion put some bearings on the clamp arms holding the fixture and a weight on the bottom so as it spits it flops back and fourth. Or... Just buy that rotocasting machine :D
Barnacules Nerdgasm didn’t think I’d see you here
where can I find materials
Damn Alchemist
pressure pot sets on 40, but 40 what? bar, psi, apples?
PSI
I challenge you to build a prop exclusively made of extra parts!
Ah I commented that too but you beat me to it
FYI. Audio is out of sync just a little on this video. Just verified other videos here on YT, and it's unique to this one.
Actually, let me correct that. Seems many/most on this channel are that way. Other channels are fine.
could make those bubbles look like bullet holes.
+Punished Props yep i being playing Fallout 4 and do some model building.
I met you at super toy con
Great video, I actually learned a lot. However the audio is off by about 20ms :)
Isn't 300 pot life 3mins??? How the hell did u have so much time before it turned In the begging of video? Does color added extend pot time or did you use 310? Maybe it's movie magic
The pot life is a lot longer if the resin is super thin, like the brushed on coat I used at the beginning of the video. If it were all massed up in a cup, it would kick much quicker.
Punished Props
U are so awesome for taking time to reply 2 me and being able to read my misspelling lol!
I never even thought about that but that will help with the small 2 part molds with undercuts i use! I do more Gundam / scale robots models like my profile pic, and I have really learned a lot from you and I love how u present the information! I do 2 part molds without a vacuum so I use 2 (whispers DILDO's) on a make shift table which helps bring bubbles in silicone, but I'm going to try star15 soon! Anyways I'm long winded but just wanted to say thanks a ton!
i do bubbely screw-heads with a syringe
That's a great idea!
I've notice you go crazy with your registration marks on molds lmao I mean why so many?
I want to make totally sure that the mold halves line up perfectly. No reason not to cover the surface in registration.
I love casting but all those Smooth On products get expensive.
Other than a couple pails of reoflex I got for some concrete casting and a jug of release I have made due with the kits you can find at Blik but Smooth on usually has a product specifically suited for whichever project you are doing and their entire product line isn't available in stores so I find it difficult to justify an order unless I am going to make a decent amount of money off of it. After building the machines, 3D printing, foamsmithing and vacuforming are a lot cheaper to play around with. I wish casting was as approachable.
Can't you just use a vibrating table?
bubbles? bullet holes and rust!
Please put some googly eyes on Jeff!
Yea some steampunk style stuff.
Make something out of extra parts
Jeff the pressure pot.
In regards to your name. The ZOE gameboy advanced game needs a remake... :B
William Bostedt Haha, damn right it does. D:
there's that person that wants to see the world burn again.
Ha Ha my name jeff
.