Watching a Vince Venturella video always makes me feel like part of a secret elite cult. Hidden in plain sight only 'those who can see truly' recognize its worth : seems like out of seven billion people only some thousands know how quality content looks like. After following Vince for such a long time he still keeps on uploading new and interesting tutorials.
You just saved my life... 3 month in the hobby and I´m right now working on a gold NMM but was struggling so bad with the yellow coverage on my black primer that I was almost in tears. This is exactly the kind of explanition I was looking for! I was not leaving a comment on this vid cause it´s 2 years old and maybe you have already forgotten about it but I´m so happy right now I guess it´s the right thing to thank you. I´m gonna prime back the mess I´ve done on the mini, make a good mid tone brown as undercoat and enjoy again my painting sesions!
That intro alone was one of the best educational, informative things summed up. I love your teaching and am very glad having found someone like you, the things you say are not all written down on wiki or random books so I appreciate your comprehensive content. Keep it up, your a good man, and I’m still so happy beeing alive in this wonderful golden age of hobby. Cheers
This has been so good for learning how to get the yellow I want, everytime I mess up I come back with another question that gets answered with a rewatch. These colour vids are amazing Vince, thanks so much.
I love these color videos. It shows me that I paint way to safe when it comes to color combinations and mixes. These videos show me that I'm holding back my own potential when it comes to painting my miniatures and I want to thank you for showing me that 😀
I don't like yellow, but I actually found this to be the most interesting video on exploring colors so far. Never would have guessed that flesh tones would make a great undertone to make the yellow pop. Thanks a lot for the info!
How about a video about painting miniatures that look like they're out at night? - kind of a follow up to a part of a subject you talked avout with Sam iirc? A series exploring times of day in general would be cool now that I think about, but especially what setting the feeling of night / out in moonlight would be great!
I’m sure someone else has said this, if you want to sell your house, paint it yellow. Sell it faster and for a better price. Use a complementary colour at the proper percentage, perhaps even faster(could probably sell a crack house with a fresh yellow paint job with a cool blue trim). I worked in the mines for years and everything large and dangerous is painted yellow for a reason. Humans instantly take notice and pay attention to it over all other colours. Hence hazard stripes.
So much time I lost trying to paint yellow on black primer... So much pain :) Thank you very much! I ordered colors you showed and can't wait to try them asap!
Love the look of deep, rich warm yellow Imperial Fists. I got an ok result but it took me too many layers to get them done to want to do an army of them. If only I had known your tricks first!
Yellow is also a great colour to use at 2-10mm painting. Because it contrasts really well with almost anything darker you get great definition of it and it is a great way of adding some pop or visual interest to smaller figures that have fewer details overall. Redcoats with yellow cuffs and collars for example. An Imperial Fists army tends to look better at 6mm than a Ravenguard army will due to the greater visual interest and differentiation against the base (which is a greater %age of the models surface area when they're small like that).
I have to stop the video to thank you for this clear explanation. Ive never seen covered this topic with ducha depth but still very easy to follow. Second, Ive just started my ImperialFists too and that vid is godsend. Thank you again
Thank you very much Vince. This was another very enlightening video. I struggle with yellow so much, that I decided to never paint it again until I watched your video. Imperial fists is my favorite chapter, and I tried many paint ranges to find a good yellow until I recently gave up. I hope you continue to explore colors, these videos are my favorites. Thank you.
Thank you sooooo much! I'm new to TCG alters and miniature paint, and I was struggling about white and yellow for sure! This is driving me nuts, searching the whole YTB about a nice yellow coverage (even already playing with Vallejos). You saved me some bucks, spending in paints that is really expensive for me (I live in Brazil and everything here cost 5x) just to try if it will have a reasonable opacity. THIS IS really a hobby cheating! ♥
Ok... It's the second time I watched all your Exploring color (so far) in less than 2 days. It's , I think , the best series I see on miniatures painting for a while. I have taking note this time, so I don't need to watch it 10 times more to learn and I really hope to see new exploring color often. I'm Kind of curious about Black (not for the higlight but the shadows. White and how to proprely highlight (if possible). True Metalic Metal and True Metalic Gold... Blue green and so and so... Thanks for these video.
LOVE this series. Always excited when a new one comes out. What about looking at CMYK primaries like Cyan and Magenta? I’ve fallen in love with magenta recently for whatever reason. Thanks again for all the great content!
CMKY is a subtractive colour based system while RGB is an additive system. In print media you have a white page which represents all spectrums of colour combined, the light reflects off this layer and then is filtered by the layers of ink on the page and hit your eyeball registering only the spectrums that were not filtered out. Super interesting colour theory and definitely worth talking about especially as we use a lot of inks and layering glazes that bare a lot of resemblance to print media sometimes.
Again a great video in my favourite series of yours! I am happy that I've discovered some of the tricks by trying to make a BB team in the colors of the 80s LA Kings, but i realised that I did not even started to scratch the top of the tool box to get nice vibrant yellow. Thanks Vince!
Fantastic video Vince! They always open doors that I didn't even know existed. Shading yellow with purple? Well yeah look at the color wheel! Damn, I want to paint my imperial guards a bright lemon yellow now. Must... resist....
You're killing me Vincent! Last week I'd just finished a bunch of heavily armoured Orcs before the Steel vid, and this week I've just finished a gang of yellow armoured Palanite Enforcers.
Thank you very much for educational videos! I have also seen a vid (if i remember correctly - it was at goobertown hobbies), where pink with a white zenithal was the undercoat. And after a yellow layer it created a really nice tone. It was as mindblowing - like your suggestion to use (very thin) purple :D
Yep, pink works excellent for yellow as well for the same reasons skin tone work well, caucasuan skin tone is basically a red-leaning orange with white mixed in (i.e. in the pink range) so very similar effect. :)
Once again, a great tutorial, thanks! I like the color yellow, but had the same results that you illustrated in the video with using the basic zenithal highlight...sickly greenish yellow. This made me back away from using yellow as a base color for my figs. This video has solved the problem, much thanks for that.
That Ice Yellow and Pale Yellow from AK are just too good. It's perfect for a muted yellow on grimdark styled paintjobs. I used it on my King in Yellow from the Cthulhu Boardgame and on a Belisarius Cawl, where I then continued with the Streaking Grime technique, which feeds into the whole play of yellow with orangy-brown shadows. So Pale yellow base, Ice Yellow Highlight and then brown tones as shadowing. Their robes pop so much, without looking neon
I come back to this video at least once a year, and now that my newest project has yellow as a primary colour on my new Dwarf army, I expect I’ll be back to it even more often for the next few months. It’s going to be a change from the last 6 months of painting reds and blues on my Cities of Sigmar army, which is almost completed (every model is painted, they just need to be based, and I’m waiting on custom bases I’m having designed by a local 3d artist). But they are a painting competition army, my Dwarfs will be my main gaming army (TOW is my main game, WHFB has always been my favourite gaming setting). I’m babbling, but basically I’m excited for a new project after 10 months painting Imperial Dandy’s on the wrong bases. I’m so excited to get my HUGE dwarf army and start building and planning out everything.
Ok this is strange. When you did a episode on white, I had just started painting a white space marine (mortifactor). Now you drop a yellow & I'm currently in the process of painting an Imperial Fist space marine. Works out though! Thanks!
Super informative as always thanks for the vid I’m painting a 100 kingdoms army in the style of the Holy Roman Empire and I’ve never used yellow before so this is really helpful
My personal recipe for yellow: Start with base of ochre or pink. Paint a base of yellow, it'll look chalky and that's fine. Then, apply two coats of scale 75 yellow mixed with Vallejo glaze medium. You'll have a very glossy yellow base. Paint a coat of yellow over that to dull it down. Then, highlight with ice yellow and shade with ochre or purple. The resulting yellow is eye-piercing bright and clean. Big issue with this is that it's a lot of layers and it will cover detail, so it's best only with large surfaces. I'd never do this for a face.
I promised myself I’d never willingly paint yellow again, getting too old for this s**t. Just when I thought I was out, you pulled me back in...great video!
I painted an Imperial Fists lieutenant as an experiment and while it didn't work out that well, I did try Liquitex's muted violet ink to black-line the armour and create some shadow areas, and it really made the yellow pop.
Easy yellow: Prime Duplicoat sandible red/rust Duplicoat sandible white top down Where the speckling is spray/paint tentacle pink. Pick your yellow golden or mid tone yellow. Done. Add more yellows if you want for depth. I’m not the first to say it but the best under coat for yellow is pink.
Can you do a complex skin tone tutorial? I stick to the GW trimverate of colors Cadian/Kislev/Bugman. Can you help with some of the pinker tones from Valejo? Rosey, Elf Flesh, etc. I can’t seem to find a the key to making them look good, they always come out to warm. I want to use them to add some variance in skin tones to my armies.
Have been real tempted to put together an Imperial Fist army and this video is feeding that temptation. BEGONE AGENT OF SLAANESH! I am weak and can't hold out. ;)
This really did pass muster (ok, I'll show myself out now). I had horrible problems with yellow, painting the yellow sections from old Blood Angels helmets and other parts over red. Or making a horrible mess by putting thick coats trying to cover whatever is underneath. I found the hard way the importance of the undercoat, but this was a totally different level of understanding.by using skin and light browns. That really makes sense but it never occurred to me (not an artist by any measure) and that would explain why most of my yellow models look bilious. I did find the purple combination doing some patzing around with those Blood Angels shadows, but didn't find a way to make it work!
That's an awesome video! I'll those tips on my Space Wolves yellow bits. I usually started from VGC Opaque Heavy Bluegrey, but it was usually off. Also idea with shading, I'll switch to brown-ish shades! I've given nadiral glaze to my SW dude and it got on his yellow shoulderpad, I have to say that it also works, when it's a thin glaze. Thank you!
Sunlight is actually slightly blue once it has passed through our atmosphere and reaches everything down below, because of rayleigh scattering. Our eyes have a natural white-balance (like in photography) which dulls down the excessive blueness in the world around us, and enhances reds and greens (and thereby yellows and colors in between). Evenings and mornings, light reaches us by passing through the atmosphere at an angle, and thereby scatters into the yellow-orange-red range, because of the extra air and particulates that it must move through.
Hi, this video was very helpful. I am planning to do a sisters of battle order who are mainly yellow so this was very helpful. In this case would you recommend doing a typical zenithal prime then undercoat with the flesh tones then yellow or do a base prime with like pink/brown and then some drybrush highlights and then the yellow ?
Thanks Vince for another fascinating exploration of colour. I’m now wondering about the colour ivory, is it a yellow, a brown or white (or combination)? Useful to understand in the context of how the colour interacts with the under-shade. From my experience the same rules as yellow seem to apply.
Painting a yellow version of the delta 7 from Star Wars for a local painting comp (you can Google: "star wars yellow delta 7 " if you want to have a peak what it looks like). Looking for some pointers of how to go about that. Maybe airbrushing the yellow and brush painting the grey makes more sense compared to the other way around? Also planning on doing a very bright side (right side of the ship) to a very dark side, as if he flies close to a nearby sun. So the "zenithal" highlight is rotated ~90 degrees.
Thanks for the video, super informative and interesting! I'm painting up a dark blue Space Wolves army with yellow pauldrons right now. For the pauldrons I've been using a flat brown to undercoat, then orange (i know, i know) to glaze a shade on. Would you recommend going with your purple suggestion instead or might that just fade into the dark blue and therefore take away that 'pop' that people look for in minis. Thanks!
Honestly, I think either can work fine. My best advice is give it a try, if you don't like it, easy enough to change, if you do like it, that's a cool discovery. :)
What are your thoughts on using pink as the undertone for yellow? I have seen numerous hobby painter videos that go over this option, and was surprised to not see you bring up this subject.
If the sun is white rather than yellow or orange, do you find it best to still paint 'sunlight' in the yellow spectrum? Something that occurred to me is, to represent direct sun, if the sun contains all the colors, paint all my colors as 'true' (whatever the actual color I want the object to be) where they are in the direct sunlight, whether it be reds blues or yellows, then desaturate from there.. but then we still have highlights to consider, and I don't think mixing everything with white is the way to go from this point in my thinking. Also, my apologies if my questions aren't exactly clear or would demand an entire video to answer. Feel free to respond, "I made a video on that."
The universal highlight video does cover some of this, but things actually get very desaturated in direct sunlight, usually because of the intensity of the light. It will change in exact tone depending on time of day, but it will create very deep shadows at its brightest. A soft diffuse light actually shows the truest colors (like a mildly cloudy day). If you really want the full detail, James Gurneys Color and Light is the resource you’re looking for.
Vince Vince Vince... you havent tried the Warcolours one coat yellow?? Hands down best coverage i've ever come across. i keep referring to it as the holy grail.
Hello Vince. The explanation is so on point. However, I'm starting a new Genestealer cults and I've got couple of doubts which maybe you can help me sorting out: 1. I want to have the ropes painted yellow. For that I planned on Zenithal grey over black at 30/45 degrees and then do a final Zenithal priming with sunny skin tone right over the top to pick the sharper edges and most prominent areas of the miniature. From that point. Then, I would like to paint the clothes a vibrant yellow (as the ropes and the tabards would be blue and we all know how well both colours interact with each other). I'm concerned however if I don't do it properly the previous zenithal highlights will be lost. What method would you use? Would you glaze thin layers over each other until you get a decent coverage and the natural highlights? Or maybe the yellow contrast paint would work? I've never worked with yellow and don't want to mess it up and get discouraged at my first try. 2. Onto the skin it happens more or less the same. I know I want to have it purple as Genestealers should but I'm unsure about which procedure should I follow in order to not destroy the Zenithal priming. Thanks again and sorry for annoying you with silly questions.
Have you experimented much with using magenta as your shade color instead of an orange rusty brown? If so, for what kind of situations do you like that option over the brown?
Hey Vince, great video as per usual. two things: 1. Scott mentioned on the podcast you introduced him to Contrapoints, so gold star for you! 2. Is there US supplier I can order the Warcolours Florescent Layer Paint sry? Amazon isn’t caring it and I can’t find it on ebay or locally either. I suppose i can just buy the single bottles of vallejo’s fluorescent range.
1) It's an amazing channel and everyone should be watching her. :) 2) Warcolours is only available directly from them, it's all sourced from a simple mom & pop operation in cyprus.
Do you have any advice on highlighting sharp colour transitions on flat/smooth surfaces? I want to paint up some Space Marines using one of the retro halved/quartered colour schemes (like medieval heraldry), where they're split cleanly down the middle, but I'm worried about how to colour match my shades and highlights to make it look right, plus difficulties with getting even highlight thickness across the transition.
So creating a unified undershade through a zenithal is a strong way to go. The other idea is use the same highlight and shadow colors on both. It seems like that would be difficult, but something like Ice Yellow or Glacier Blue can easily work for many colors as a highlight color.
Hey Vince, I'm in your neck of the woods and was wondering where you get most of your hobby supplies, such as your paints. Are their local stores you prefer or a website you usually use? I love trying new brands out but the stores I know of only carry citadel, army painter, and one kind of Vallejo at the GT, maybe p3 at the soldiery. Thanks ahead of time.
It would depend how much metallic. If we are talking about a little bit, the answer would be yes, because I would use glazes to bring the zenithal highlight back down and create a natural highlight.
Is that Imperial Fist mini you showed here done the same way as the one in your 2019 video about painting imperial fist yellow (contrast yellow through airbrush), or did you change your workflow?
@@VinceVenturella haha, just trying to figure out if I have to start getting contrast colors. I already have too many colors and material as it is, but lately more and more contrast 'cheats' start to pop up, like for leather, bones and black.
Hey Vince, Do you by chance have a video that shows how to do natural weathering on like rocks and such? I'm starting some gloomspite and the loonshrine in pictures has moss buildup in its cracks and crevices and in not sure how to achieve that.
I just tried my first Imperial Fist and it came out green, so I wanted to ask you, considering I followed your guide basically (primed black, red/brown basecoat, then yellow and highlight with pale yellow) where that green came from. Did I leave too much black shining through somewhere maybe and that can cause it?
It's a very complicated thing, as you have to shift into a two light source dominated scene. Marco NJM actually has a nice video with the fundementals of it. You can see it on his channel here - ua-cam.com/video/c48UiPSBfcg/v-deo.html
It's sad to me that I either have to airbrush to get a true zenithal, use inks which results in less saturation/vibrancy, or layer and layer over the zenithal prime until it's effect is almost gone or gone
SO I'll say that's not always the case. You could always prime in a straight mid-brown, dry brush ivory in a downward angle, and then your yellow should go over the top just as easily.
GW's Averland Sunset (supposedly a Yellow) looks like yellow on their box art i.e. old Ork Dakkajet or Bloodbowl Elfheim Eagles trousers box art / photo promos but in real life it looks orange and IS orange when I paint it on. (I even use Averaland Sunset as an excellent orange wash to compliment GW's Flashfitz Yellow which is more of a true yellow. And yellow always on white Vallejo Surface Primer or it's usually a fail. What I hate about yellow is when you accidently mark it with a darker colour - just try and paintng over that with yellow - it's just too transparent. But I love yellow the colour. Hmm this video may make me change on ocassions my base colour for yellow being pure white, light rust, human skin etc
@@VinceVenturella I'll give it a try next time it happens which judging by the number of yellow pants I have to do on my blood Bowl Elfheim Eagles, should be today. thx
Watching a Vince Venturella video always makes me feel like part of a secret elite cult. Hidden in plain sight only 'those who can see truly' recognize its worth : seems like out of seven billion people only some thousands know how quality content looks like.
After following Vince for such a long time he still keeps on uploading new and interesting tutorials.
Thank you, I am glad to hear they are so helpful still. :)
i realize I am kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good site to watch newly released tv shows online?
@Jay Alvin i use Flixzone. You can find it on google :)
I've only watched one video and I'm already part of the Yellow Stonecutters - I think I'm ready to attack Iyanden now
You just saved my life... 3 month in the hobby and I´m right now working on a gold NMM but was struggling so bad with the yellow coverage on my black primer that I was almost in tears. This is exactly the kind of explanition I was looking for! I was not leaving a comment on this vid cause it´s 2 years old and maybe you have already forgotten about it but I´m so happy right now I guess it´s the right thing to thank you. I´m gonna prime back the mess I´ve done on the mini, make a good mid tone brown as undercoat and enjoy again my painting sesions!
That intro alone was one of the best educational, informative things summed up.
I love your teaching and am very glad having found someone like you, the things you say are not all written down on wiki or random books so I appreciate your comprehensive content.
Keep it up, your a good man, and I’m still so happy beeing alive in this wonderful golden age of hobby.
Cheers
This may be the single most useful video, in one of the most useful series on painting, in the hobby. Major 'aha' moment.
Glad it was helpful!
This has been so good for learning how to get the yellow I want, everytime I mess up I come back with another question that gets answered with a rewatch.
These colour vids are amazing Vince, thanks so much.
Happy to help!
Blew my mind on how easy yellow can be, Vince you're a lifesaver.
I love these color videos. It shows me that I paint way to safe when it comes to color combinations and mixes. These videos show me that I'm holding back my own potential when it comes to painting my miniatures and I want to thank you for showing me that 😀
I'm so glad!
I don't like yellow, but I actually found this to be the most interesting video on exploring colors so far. Never would have guessed that flesh tones would make a great undertone to make the yellow pop. Thanks a lot for the info!
Glad it was helpful!
How about a video about painting miniatures that look like they're out at night? - kind of a follow up to a part of a subject you talked avout with Sam iirc?
A series exploring times of day in general would be cool now that I think about, but especially what setting the feeling of night / out in moonlight would be great!
This is definitely something on the menu for the future. :)
@@VinceVenturella Have you made it?
@@Quisiio0303456 I made something close - ua-cam.com/video/Bb7AJQheUWw/v-deo.html
I’m sure someone else has said this, if you want to sell your house, paint it yellow. Sell it faster and for a better price. Use a complementary colour at the proper percentage, perhaps even faster(could probably sell a crack house with a fresh yellow paint job with a cool blue trim). I worked in the mines for years and everything large and dangerous is painted yellow for a reason. Humans instantly take notice and pay attention to it over all other colours. Hence hazard stripes.
So much time I lost trying to paint yellow on black primer... So much pain :) Thank you very much! I ordered colors you showed and can't wait to try them asap!
Love the look of deep, rich warm yellow Imperial Fists. I got an ok result but it took me too many layers to get them done to want to do an army of them. If only I had known your tricks first!
Well, there are always more imperial fists to paint. :)
Yellow is also a great colour to use at 2-10mm painting. Because it contrasts really well with almost anything darker you get great definition of it and it is a great way of adding some pop or visual interest to smaller figures that have fewer details overall. Redcoats with yellow cuffs and collars for example. An Imperial Fists army tends to look better at 6mm than a Ravenguard army will due to the greater visual interest and differentiation against the base (which is a greater %age of the models surface area when they're small like that).
Yes, the way it distinguishes and grabs attention is just really valuable.
Its like you're in my head...working an Escher gang and was having issues with my yellows...no longer! Thank you for a very timely video!
Glad I could help!
This video was soooooo needed. It should have been one of the first ones =D
Thank you so much, this helps tremendously!
Glad it helped!
I have to stop the video to thank you for this clear explanation. Ive never seen covered this topic with ducha depth but still very easy to follow. Second, Ive just started my ImperialFists too and that vid is godsend.
Thank you again
Glad it was helpful!
Just so you know I really look forward to these videos every weekend
Awesome to hear and always happy to help.
This is by far my favourite hobby cheating series
I really enjoy these videos for sure. :)
Thank you very much Vince. This was another very enlightening video. I struggle with yellow so much, that I decided to never paint it again until I watched your video. Imperial fists is my favorite chapter, and I tried many paint ranges to find a good yellow until I recently gave up. I hope you continue to explore colors, these videos are my favorites. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful and they will certainly continue. :)
Man I love this series! I keep coming back again and again, especially for yellow!
Glad you enjoy it!
Thank you sooooo much! I'm new to TCG alters and miniature paint, and I was struggling about white and yellow for sure! This is driving me nuts, searching the whole YTB about a nice yellow coverage (even already playing with Vallejos). You saved me some bucks, spending in paints that is really expensive for me (I live in Brazil and everything here cost 5x) just to try if it will have a reasonable opacity. THIS IS really a hobby cheating! ♥
Thanks for continuing to share your experience.
Always! :)
Ok...
It's the second time I watched all your Exploring color (so far) in less than 2 days.
It's , I think , the best series I see on miniatures painting for a while.
I have taking note this time, so I don't need to watch it 10 times more to learn and I really hope to see new exploring color often.
I'm Kind of curious about Black (not for the higlight but the shadows.
White and how to proprely highlight (if possible).
True Metalic Metal and True Metalic Gold...
Blue green and so and so...
Thanks for these video.
More colors will be coming soon. :)
Always seem to have problems with yellows. Thanks for all you do Vince.
Always happy to help. :)
LOVE this series. Always excited when a new one comes out. What about looking at CMYK primaries like Cyan and Magenta? I’ve fallen in love with magenta recently for whatever reason. Thanks again for all the great content!
CMKY is a subtractive colour based system while RGB is an additive system. In print media you have a white page which represents all spectrums of colour combined, the light reflects off this layer and then is filtered by the layers of ink on the page and hit your eyeball registering only the spectrums that were not filtered out. Super interesting colour theory and definitely worth talking about especially as we use a lot of inks and layering glazes that bare a lot of resemblance to print media sometimes.
We are definitely going to touch on Magenta at some point, it's a very interesting color with incresible versatility.
I've been using that yellow + purple mix for shading skin tones. Can't quite explain why it works, but it does!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Again a great video in my favourite series of yours! I am happy that I've discovered some of the tricks by trying to make a BB team in the colors of the 80s LA Kings, but i realised that I did not even started to scratch the top of the tool box to get nice vibrant yellow. Thanks Vince!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Vince! I never would have thought of using skin tones for yellow.
Glad it was helpful. :)
Fantastic video Vince! They always open doors that I didn't even know existed. Shading yellow with purple? Well yeah look at the color wheel! Damn, I want to paint my imperial guards a bright lemon yellow now. Must... resist....
Resistance is futile. :)
I've always considered doing a "good" yellow to be the hardest color to teach someone how to do. This really makes it easy hah. Great vid as usual.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Now I know why my yellow colors always need not 2 but 20 layers before they look anything close to what I want, thanks Vince
Awesome, happy to help. :)
You're killing me Vincent! Last week I'd just finished a bunch of heavily armoured Orcs before the Steel vid, and this week I've just finished a gang of yellow armoured Palanite Enforcers.
I seem to be a week behind. :)
@@VinceVenturella At least I'm getting a few things done though for a change... Still very isolate-y down here in Melbourne.
Who would have thought Vince could teach me the importance of color better and faster than my college professor?
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Thank you very much for educational videos! I have also seen a vid (if i remember correctly - it was at goobertown hobbies), where pink with a white zenithal was the undercoat.
And after a yellow layer it created a really nice tone. It was as mindblowing - like your suggestion to use (very thin) purple :D
Yep, pink works excellent for yellow as well for the same reasons skin tone work well, caucasuan skin tone is basically a red-leaning orange with white mixed in (i.e. in the pink range) so very similar effect. :)
Excellent video, many thanks Vince!
Glad you liked it! :)
Once again, a great tutorial, thanks! I like the color yellow, but had the same results that you illustrated in the video with using the basic zenithal highlight...sickly greenish yellow. This made me back away from using yellow as a base color for my figs. This video has solved the problem, much thanks for that.
Glad it was helpful!
this was soo helpful, thank you so much Vince!
Glad it was helpful! :)
Your content is, as always, a gold mine!
Glad you enjoy it! :)
Today I learned a lot
I also learned that Vince has excellent taste in space marine chapters
I mean, they are the best. ;)
That Ice Yellow and Pale Yellow from AK are just too good. It's perfect for a muted yellow on grimdark styled paintjobs.
I used it on my King in Yellow from the Cthulhu Boardgame and on a Belisarius Cawl, where I then continued with the Streaking Grime technique, which feeds into the whole play of yellow with orangy-brown shadows. So Pale yellow base, Ice Yellow Highlight and then brown tones as shadowing.
Their robes pop so much, without looking neon
Yep, I've really been enjoying the color for sure.
I come back to this video at least once a year, and now that my newest project has yellow as a primary colour on my new Dwarf army, I expect I’ll be back to it even more often for the next few months.
It’s going to be a change from the last 6 months of painting reds and blues on my Cities of Sigmar army, which is almost completed (every model is painted, they just need to be based, and I’m waiting on custom bases I’m having designed by a local 3d artist). But they are a painting competition army, my Dwarfs will be my main gaming army (TOW is my main game, WHFB has always been my favourite gaming setting).
I’m babbling, but basically I’m excited for a new project after 10 months painting Imperial Dandy’s on the wrong bases.
I’m so excited to get my HUGE dwarf army and start building and planning out everything.
Always love the color exploration videos!
More to come! Now we are getting to the weird colors.
Thank you for this video Vince! I wish Pro Acryl was sold in Australia, really want to try it out.
yeah, the same, was going to order from US/Canada/UK but even then sets are sold out, and u dont want to buy individually with shipping costs to here
I am sure Jason is working on getting the shipping to interantional locations worked out as we speak. :)
You just need a good pigmented Ocre....I hit the jackpot with mine, it is a big pot from the dollar store....
Amazing video! I was having trouble doing orange base coats for yellow so this helps a bunch
Glad I could help!
I always learn something from these color videos.
Glad you like them! :)
Ok this is strange. When you did a episode on white, I had just started painting a white space marine (mortifactor). Now you drop a yellow & I'm currently in the process of painting an Imperial Fist space marine.
Works out though! Thanks!
Right on time. :)
Super informative as always thanks for the vid I’m painting a 100 kingdoms army in the style of the Holy Roman Empire and I’ve never used yellow before so this is really helpful
My personal recipe for yellow:
Start with base of ochre or pink. Paint a base of yellow, it'll look chalky and that's fine. Then, apply two coats of scale 75 yellow mixed with Vallejo glaze medium. You'll have a very glossy yellow base. Paint a coat of yellow over that to dull it down. Then, highlight with ice yellow and shade with ochre or purple.
The resulting yellow is eye-piercing bright and clean. Big issue with this is that it's a lot of layers and it will cover detail, so it's best only with large surfaces. I'd never do this for a face.
Yeah, hopefully this can cut down the layers some. :)
I promised myself I’d never willingly paint yellow again, getting too old for this s**t. Just when I thought I was out, you pulled me back in...great video!
You can do it! :)
I painted an Imperial Fists lieutenant as an experiment and while it didn't work out that well, I did try Liquitex's muted violet ink to black-line the armour and create some shadow areas, and it really made the yellow pop.
Hopefully this helps. :)
Easy yellow:
Prime Duplicoat sandible red/rust
Duplicoat sandible white top down
Where the speckling is spray/paint tentacle pink.
Pick your yellow golden or mid tone yellow. Done. Add more yellows if you want for depth.
I’m not the first to say it but the best under coat for yellow is pink.
Yes, this is why I like flesh tone, as most caucasian flesh tones are variances of pink (being Red leaning orange mixed with white). :)
Can you do a complex skin tone tutorial? I stick to the GW trimverate of colors Cadian/Kislev/Bugman. Can you help with some of the pinker tones from Valejo? Rosey, Elf Flesh, etc. I can’t seem to find a the key to making them look good, they always come out to warm. I want to use them to add some variance in skin tones to my armies.
Have been real tempted to put together an Imperial Fist army and this video is feeding that temptation. BEGONE AGENT OF SLAANESH! I am weak and can't hold out. ;)
There is no reason to resist. ;)
Using a magenta as an undercoat for yellow also gives a really nice warm yellow
Great video,and about finishing the "yellow touched" with the yellow cadmium oil paint range ,it could be nice too..😉
Finishing with the oil paints is always a nice touch. :)
I LOVE this series! I'm going to make an Instagram account just to like your Dutchess post.
Go for it! ;) - Glad you're enjoying it.,
This really did pass muster (ok, I'll show myself out now).
I had horrible problems with yellow, painting the yellow sections from old Blood Angels helmets and other parts over red. Or making a horrible mess by putting thick coats trying to cover whatever is underneath.
I found the hard way the importance of the undercoat, but this was a totally different level of understanding.by using skin and light browns. That really makes sense but it never occurred to me (not an artist by any measure) and that would explain why most of my yellow models look bilious. I did find the purple combination doing some patzing around with those Blood Angels shadows, but didn't find a way to make it work!
Puns are always welcome here, heck, they are encouraged. I relish them. ;)
Yellow time! hope it can excite me over yellow as the brown did ! :D
That's an awesome video! I'll those tips on my Space Wolves yellow bits. I usually started from VGC Opaque Heavy Bluegrey, but it was usually off. Also idea with shading, I'll switch to brown-ish shades! I've given nadiral glaze to my SW dude and it got on his yellow shoulderpad, I have to say that it also works, when it's a thin glaze. Thank you!
ALways happy to help. :)
Quality content Vince. Cant wait to try it out.
Always happy to help. :)
Purple is such a great color...
Agreed, very multi-faceted. :)
Sunlight is actually slightly blue once it has passed through our atmosphere and reaches everything down below, because of rayleigh scattering.
Our eyes have a natural white-balance (like in photography) which dulls down the excessive blueness in the world around us, and enhances reds and greens (and thereby yellows and colors in between).
Evenings and mornings, light reaches us by passing through the atmosphere at an angle, and thereby scatters into the yellow-orange-red range, because of the extra air and particulates that it must move through.
Yep, light is fascinaing how it works in the world for sure. :)
Thank you Vince, really appreciate the video!
Glad it was helpful!
I've painted rust and sewage on Death Guard and trim on Thousand Sons. Yellow is what broke me.
Hi, this video was very helpful. I am planning to do a sisters of battle order who are mainly yellow so this was very helpful. In this case would you recommend doing a typical zenithal prime then undercoat with the flesh tones then yellow or do a base prime with like pink/brown and then some drybrush highlights and then the yellow ?
Either could work. :)
Thanks Vince for another fascinating exploration of colour. I’m now wondering about the colour ivory, is it a yellow, a brown or white (or combination)? Useful to understand in the context of how the colour interacts with the under-shade. From my experience the same rules as yellow seem to apply.
It’s a white for painting purposes, a yellow for true color, but you can ignore it in composition.
Gotta say, I really dislike yellow, but those minis looked really good with that color scheme, now I have to try it. Great video.
Glad it was helpful. :)
Painting a yellow version of the delta 7 from Star Wars for a local painting comp (you can Google: "star wars yellow delta 7 " if you want to have a peak what it looks like). Looking for some pointers of how to go about that. Maybe airbrushing the yellow and brush painting the grey makes more sense compared to the other way around? Also planning on doing a very bright side (right side of the ship) to a very dark side, as if he flies close to a nearby sun. So the "zenithal" highlight is rotated ~90 degrees.
Yeah, I think the yellow airbrush and grey brush would good unless you wanted to go all for masking.
Thanks for the video, super informative and interesting! I'm painting up a dark blue Space Wolves army with yellow pauldrons right now. For the pauldrons I've been using a flat brown to undercoat, then orange (i know, i know) to glaze a shade on. Would you recommend going with your purple suggestion instead or might that just fade into the dark blue and therefore take away that 'pop' that people look for in minis. Thanks!
Honestly, I think either can work fine. My best advice is give it a try, if you don't like it, easy enough to change, if you do like it, that's a cool discovery. :)
I like using Chestnut Ink fro S75 for pre shading my Imperial Fists, and Screamer Pink for my Orange/Yellows lol
Great undershading colors for me. :)
Aha, thank you. That explains some things!
Happy to help!
It's also interesting how the coldest yellow can still be a warm off-white compared to a regular white.
Absolutely true.
Man I know what you mean about wanting to do a yellow skaven army now lol
Never even thought of it but it looks good
Yeah, that yellow really pops on those robes.
What are your thoughts on using pink as the undertone for yellow? I have seen numerous hobby painter videos that go over this option, and was surprised to not see you bring up this subject.
Absolutely doable and great.
If the sun is white rather than yellow or orange, do you find it best to still paint 'sunlight' in the yellow spectrum? Something that occurred to me is, to represent direct sun, if the sun contains all the colors, paint all my colors as 'true' (whatever the actual color I want the object to be) where they are in the direct sunlight, whether it be reds blues or yellows, then desaturate from there.. but then we still have highlights to consider, and I don't think mixing everything with white is the way to go from this point in my thinking.
Also, my apologies if my questions aren't exactly clear or would demand an entire video to answer. Feel free to respond, "I made a video on that."
The universal highlight video does cover some of this, but things actually get very desaturated in direct sunlight, usually because of the intensity of the light. It will change in exact tone depending on time of day, but it will create very deep shadows at its brightest. A soft diffuse light actually shows the truest colors (like a mildly cloudy day). If you really want the full detail, James Gurneys Color and Light is the resource you’re looking for.
Vince Vince Vince... you havent tried the Warcolours one coat yellow?? Hands down best coverage i've ever come across. i keep referring to it as the holy grail.
I do have some, I thought it was nice, but the undershade still matters. :)
Hello Vince. The explanation is so on point. However, I'm starting a new Genestealer cults and I've got couple of doubts which maybe you can help me sorting out:
1. I want to have the ropes painted yellow. For that I planned on Zenithal grey over black at 30/45 degrees and then do a final Zenithal priming with sunny skin tone right over the top to pick the sharper edges and most prominent areas of the miniature. From that point. Then, I would like to paint the clothes a vibrant yellow (as the ropes and the tabards would be blue and we all know how well both colours interact with each other). I'm concerned however if I don't do it properly the previous zenithal highlights will be lost. What method would you use? Would you glaze thin layers over each other until you get a decent coverage and the natural highlights? Or maybe the yellow contrast paint would work? I've never worked with yellow and don't want to mess it up and get discouraged at my first try.
2. Onto the skin it happens more or less the same. I know I want to have it purple as Genestealers should but I'm unsure about which procedure should I follow in order to not destroy the Zenithal priming.
Thanks again and sorry for annoying you with silly questions.
If you want to get crazy, I would zenithal the models with deep purple up to sunny skin tone. That will work well for both the flesh and the skin.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for taking your time to answer. Just to be clear, you would go black - grey - purple and then yellow?
Have you experimented much with using magenta as your shade color instead of an orange rusty brown? If so, for what kind of situations do you like that option over the brown?
Yes actually, generally if I want something more vibrant honestly. I like the the rust more for things that are earthier or worn.
Hey Vince, great video as per usual. two things: 1. Scott mentioned on the podcast you introduced him to Contrapoints, so gold star for you! 2. Is there US supplier I can order the Warcolours Florescent Layer Paint sry? Amazon isn’t caring it and I can’t find it on ebay or locally either. I suppose i can just buy the single bottles of vallejo’s fluorescent range.
1) It's an amazing channel and everyone should be watching her. :) 2) Warcolours is only available directly from them, it's all sourced from a simple mom & pop operation in cyprus.
Great, thanks for the info!
How do you think Bugmans Glow would do as a base coat for yellow? I guess I could just try it, but i'm sure you already have the answer ;)
It would be wonderful for your lower to mid tones, perfect base tone (you still need a highlight in the zenithal).
Do you have any advice on highlighting sharp colour transitions on flat/smooth surfaces? I want to paint up some Space Marines using one of the retro halved/quartered colour schemes (like medieval heraldry), where they're split cleanly down the middle, but I'm worried about how to colour match my shades and highlights to make it look right, plus difficulties with getting even highlight thickness across the transition.
So creating a unified undershade through a zenithal is a strong way to go. The other idea is use the same highlight and shadow colors on both. It seems like that would be difficult, but something like Ice Yellow or Glacier Blue can easily work for many colors as a highlight color.
Hey Vince, I'm in your neck of the woods and was wondering where you get most of your hobby supplies, such as your paints. Are their local stores you prefer or a website you usually use? I love trying new brands out but the stores I know of only carry citadel, army painter, and one kind of Vallejo at the GT, maybe p3 at the soldiery. Thanks ahead of time.
Usually Michigan Toy Soldier or COmpetition Minis (ordering on-line in both cases).
@@VinceVenturella Fantastic, thank you for taking the time to reply. Have a great weekend.
Great video as usual! Quick unrelated question though, would you zenithal highlight a model you would primarily be painting black and metalic?
It would depend how much metallic. If we are talking about a little bit, the answer would be yes, because I would use glazes to bring the zenithal highlight back down and create a natural highlight.
Is that Imperial Fist mini you showed here done the same way as the one in your 2019 video about painting imperial fist yellow (contrast yellow through airbrush), or did you change your workflow?
Oh, I am sure I changed it some, i never paint anything the same way twice (even often when doing an army). ;)
@@VinceVenturella haha, just trying to figure out if I have to start getting contrast colors.
I already have too many colors and material as it is, but lately more and more contrast 'cheats' start to pop up, like for leather, bones and black.
Hey Vince,
Do you by chance have a video that shows how to do natural weathering on like rocks and such?
I'm starting some gloomspite and the loonshrine in pictures has moss buildup in its cracks and crevices and in not sure how to achieve that.
I certainly do - ua-cam.com/video/j6qFi5CUjwE/v-deo.html
@@VinceVenturella thanks!
I just tried my first Imperial Fist and it came out green, so I wanted to ask you, considering I followed your guide basically (primed black, red/brown basecoat, then yellow and highlight with pale yellow) where that green came from.
Did I leave too much black shining through somewhere maybe and that can cause it?
Sounds like there was still some black there, if you have pure brown to ivory, then you should have a clean warm yellow.
We need a magenta/pink color guide!
Oh, we will have that one soon for sure. :)
@@VinceVenturella Yeah since we all know that you love your pink....
Very interesting. Did you do a video on brown tones ?
Not yet, but I certainly plan to in the future.
all those reallys... I thought I was having a police academy flashback :D
I really need to watch my verbal ticks. :)
@@VinceVenturella If you were to do that, you wouldn't be Vince...
@@NarcolepticLTD You've got me on that one. :)
That is an awesome video. I love it :D
Thank you very much! :)
Awesome video! I have some ideas to work with now!
Could you do a video about green?
Already done, in the same playlist. :) - ua-cam.com/video/1utsyhYs8HM/v-deo.html
Hi Vince, which ice yellow do you like more, the one from Vallejo or the one from AK 3rd gen? If you like third option better, let me know.
I like the AK one slightly better.
Nice video. How would you paint a night ambiance maybe even with a secondary light source like a campfire?
It's a very complicated thing, as you have to shift into a two light source dominated scene. Marco NJM actually has a nice video with the fundementals of it. You can see it on his channel here - ua-cam.com/video/c48UiPSBfcg/v-deo.html
Another awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it
So after this i guess you will go into tertiary colours? would like to see a video on magenta/red purple if possible.
Oh, we are getting to the fun colors now. :)
Thank you for the video!!!
My pleasure!
I hear Clan Eshin makes their initiates wear that color while assassinating an elf as their final test.
Gotta earn your poison stars. :)
Love the Gilmore Girls Reference
Absolutely!
Hi vince, would the blacks are really blue be true for kimera black which is pure pigment ( have the set on my Xmas list)?
Those are probably actually black, but they are still going to produce an olive-ish color as well.
It's sad to me that I either have to airbrush to get a true zenithal, use inks which results in less saturation/vibrancy, or layer and layer over the zenithal prime until it's effect is almost gone or gone
SO I'll say that's not always the case. You could always prime in a straight mid-brown, dry brush ivory in a downward angle, and then your yellow should go over the top just as easily.
GW's Averland Sunset (supposedly a Yellow) looks like yellow on their box art i.e. old Ork Dakkajet or Bloodbowl Elfheim Eagles trousers box art / photo promos but in real life it looks orange and IS orange when I paint it on. (I even use Averaland Sunset as an excellent orange wash to compliment GW's Flashfitz Yellow which is more of a true yellow. And yellow always on white Vallejo Surface Primer or it's usually a fail. What I hate about yellow is when you accidently mark it with a darker colour - just try and paintng over that with yellow - it's just too transparent. But I love yellow the colour. Hmm this video may make me change on ocassions my base colour for yellow being pure white, light rust, human skin etc
The key is to mark it back to neutral, use a strong covering ivory first, then go back with your yellow and it should be indistinguishable.
@@VinceVenturella I'll give it a try next time it happens which judging by the number of yellow pants I have to do on my blood Bowl Elfheim Eagles, should be today. thx