Man, I don't think you realize how amazingly helpful this video actually is! Not even just for printing plane parts, just 3D print in general. You really highlight how the art of 3D print really is in the ability of the user to dial in their G-Code based on the print/application. wow thank you!
Just wanted to say that when I tripped over these videos my inner 12 year old, who had an unrequited passion for RC planes 45 years ago, sat bolt upright, started hyperventilating and made me watch every one of your videos! This may have pushed me over the edge into ordering my own printer!!! Mind you I might see if the same thin wall techniques would apply to ship / boat models? Maybe thicker walls as weight is not as much a constraint and robustness / water tightness might be useful for things that are designed to get wet.
Great video it will help those new to thin wall printing considerably. Here are some of my observations after a few years of 3d printing airplanes. Typically in thin wall printing we use higher print temps to get the best layer adhesion...around 230° for PLA like you started out with. This is for printing at normal speeds...say around 50mm/s to 60mm/s. At those speeds and temp if you use a cooling fan you will likely have layer adhesion issues. But if you slow down the print to 30mm/s to 40mm/s, where you ended up at, then you can get very good layer adhesion at lower print temps and with the cooling fan on. This is where the stringing tests and temp towers will fool you...because stringing tests and temp towers tend to be small in size your slicer will slow down the print speeds even if you have higher print speeds selected. Because of this you may not find the correct settings using these tests. I've had temp towers show good adhesion at all temps but yet when I go to actually print a part the layer adhesion fails. So keep that in mind when using those tools...they are good to use but can lead you astray if you aren't careful. Buildup and holes...Buildup can also be caused by too much molten filament still on the tip when a travel move is made. Retraction alone is often not enough to prevent blobs from travel moves...When that happens using Coast and Wipe can fix the issue. Likewise holes are not always due to not enough prime. Sometimes they can be caused by too much retraction, coast, or wipe. Linear Advance can also help with those issues. It is considered mainly for higher speed printing but I find even on slow prints it helps.
This is what a real engineer look like. Thank you for taking the time to explain all this. I have had my 3d printer for a few months and about 3 kilos of filament later and I still feel like a noob and constantly struggle to make a good print. I watched a lot of videos and did a bit of reading but you have helped me more in 20min then I have in the past 90 days.
I'm just glad to see it doesn't happen on the first try. I thought I wasted too much filament on my first airframe print, but it looks like that's just what it takes to dial it in. Thanks for sharing
The first time I tried to print an airplane about a year ago. I went threw a half of role of PLA trying to figure everything out. I use basic printers so I have all the same problems you are having with printing thin wall. If you need any other help let me know. Cheers
I'm new to 3D printing and I learned more from this one video than I did from watching hours and hours of Dr. Vax videos or all the other "beginners" videos on UA-cam. Thank you!!
Brilliant tutorial, I learned more in this one 20 minute video about proper settings than I did from watching 50 other confusing half baked posts. Your explanations are clear, precise and to the point. I have to build that A321 now..... Looks gorgeous....
Hi Troy, I used to be heavy into R/C back in the hay days (Pattern, Pylon Racing, Ducted Fans) but been out for 25+ years when I got involved in full sized car racing. I dialed in my Lulbotz Taz5 on eSun PLA SUPER FAST on single layer printing using your video and I'm now printing an Eclipson Model A to get back into things! Thank you so much for this 'how to' video! I'm watching the thing print single layer and I'm amazed. I had given up 5 years ago on printing thin airfoils but now its on!
big help man, much appreciated!! i went straight for the struggle bus with trying to print my first plane with Silk PLA. i WAS on right track, but i do not have your experience. nicely done, thank you
Great video!! I've been trying unsuccesfully to print my first 3d printed airplane for 2 weeks. After this video, I learned A LOT about Cura and general printing. My test wing now looks and feels great! I think I'm ready to go for it!! Thank you Troy.
Obviously more advanced for us rookies but this is a great primer to learn by taking it one step at a time...you cover things a little to quick for me to understand at this point but once I learn more this will help enormously! Thanks!
I just realized all of your settings listed in the description. I input them and so far it looks pretty good. I kept getting under extrusions. I saw that you had flow at 116, the most I ever put on mine before was 103~105. I think this setting made a huge difference.
You rock buddy! I learned a lot... I started printing my wings...Its time consuming....but you helped a lot that you explained the parameters... Thank you so much.!!!
Troy you da man! Struggled with the Anet A8+ with stringing. Followed your suggestions and finally have perfect prints. Printing the Big Bobber, looking great. Haven't flown RC in many years, . Will need to think differently from flying my tail dragged. There I have hands on for flying, instruments etc. Will be a challenge to go to the RC world. Again thanks for the great tutorial.
No problem I am happy that this helped you get your setting dialed in. Definitely the hardest part of printing rc planes. Flying RC planes is definitely a lot harder than flying full scale. Try a sim first it will save you a few rc planes. :)
Thanks for your excellent guide! Firstly I learned to navigate faster in Cura (you move like lightning!). Secondly I got my plain PLA to print perfectly at last. I had previously attained wonderful results with PLA-silk but my plain PLA was stringing badly. The key was to lower the temperature to a much lower value, based on the string tower result (I downloaded a string tower based on your video). I am delighted with the results!
This gives me a lot of ideas on how to fix my plane printing profile. I previously fixed a lot of issues by changing the line width from 0.4mm to 0.44mm, but that added a bit more weight than I was happy with.
thank you, i just started 3d printing and my goal is to print an Rc plane, so much information. You really help me to understand where is the issue and how fix it or at least understand it.
Thanks Troy. Think I learnt more about Cura settings watching your video than I've learnt in 2 years of printing. Often suffered with under extrusion on small vertical cylinders. I'm going revisit some of my failed parts on the Electra, such as the little conical prop spinners. Excellent how you go through each step and explain why it's going wrong. Cheers.
@@TroyMcMillan I have printed over a hundred parts for the Electra on my beloved Anet A8. I am in the process of assembling it now. With 4 motors, flaps, lights, retracts and gear doors, it's quite a job. It's got a wingspan of 1600mm and the fuz is 1700mm long. I wanted something small enough to go in the car and big enough to get off a grass runway. I've designed all the parts in Blender, which is great for doing parts for 3D printing. Hope to get the final files on Thingiverse and Github, with more build vids on Bathog Technologies. Those designs from PlanePrints are something else though, amazing.
this is probably one of the best 3d printing tutorial videos ive seen in ages. i can really appreciate how much work youve put into the video, much appreciated. only question is what priming actually does??
Definately the best explanation of printing issues and how to resolve them. Thank you for taking the time to make this awesome video. Now, please make a time machine backup before doing any updates to you Mac in future !! Saved my butt a few times. Cheers. Nicholas
Hi Troy, Thanks for the nice share. I use Simplify3D and tried your techniques by downloading and printing your small test piece. After about 4 or 5 tweaks, I got it dead on. Thanks for the tips and explanations. My Anet A6 printer printed fine before, now it prints perfect. I printed the fuselage and parts of the wings of PIKE r/c from thingiverse in silver PLA. Much to my surprise, the layer adhesion of the single wall was weak and split easily at 220ºC, but was perfect at 230ºC + 100% fan after layer 1!!
Watched this again to see if I could glean some more info about the process and am happy to say that I did learn a lot more watching a second time. This is very interesting and I'd give it a try if there wasn't so much minutiae involved with printing the parts. I'm pretty sure if PlanePrint could develop templates/guides for the major 3d printers and some select filaments that provided reasonable results printing their models without weeks of effort dialing in slicer settings I'm sure they would sell a heck of a lot more planes. As it stands now I'm betting that a lot of people, including me, are turned off from purchasing from PlanePrint because of the difficulties that you discuss here in video. But In any case this is good info and I've learned a lot, thanks for sharing!
For PLA usually the fan should be running 100% all of the time (except for first layers) Looks like increasing fan speed improved the seam issue quite a lot.
Sweet video. Running my test prints tonight I am down to about 1 or 2 more wing test prints and she's ready to start the real wings. I am building a big Bobber. Hope it goes well. I only had to do 2 initial wing test prints and it's dialed already with just some thin areas on the overhang at the rear top. I will up my flow a touch and pre prime. Think that will dial me right in. 2 to 3 more tops should be ready to get started on the plane. Yours came out nice! Great job thanks for sharing your setup.
Thank you for the comment. Nice job getting it dial in so quick. If the rest of the test part is good then you may be good to start printing because with the Big Bobber there is no prints that have any overhangs like the test part.
Great video. If you can use it linear advance helps a lot to fix stringing and holes/priming issues. As for layer adhesion...a good way to test is what we call the thumbnail test. Just squishing the part often won't show layer adhesion issues. Instead use your thumbnail and try to break the layers. If you can't your layer adhesion is good.
Hot damn this is the most knowledgeable 3d printing troubleshooting guy on the net I'm trying to print single outer wall with a bottom layer and some pins but with no luck. gonna implement your suggestion and see where I am at I did see an improvement when I checked the compensate inner and outer walls, turned it from a giant blob at seam to under-extrusion, so i guess I need to add prime
Thank you so much! This is my third 3D printed airplane using Cura, and I agree it can achieve great results. It takes a little determination to get the setting right but once you do it works perfectly.
Thanks for the vid . I want to print a plane so bad. But i am a total newbie to 3D printing. I am using cura 4.8 and a ender 3 so ill watch this vid a few more times and do some test prints. Learned alot.
Thank you for the comment. I bought my first printer just to print an airplane. With no previous experience with printing. There is a lot to learn for 3d printing hopefully this video helps you get a good start. The ender 3 is a good printer. Also the most common so there is a lot of information on the internet to help. Cura 4.8 changed a few things the main thing is that the retraction setting are now in the travel tab Not the material tab. Good luck let me know if you need any help with it.
Need a food dehydrator to dry and prep/ condition the filament especially if you're running PLA. Stringing is caused by moisture absorbed by the Plastic. Listen carefully for popping and sizzling. often you will see steam come either off the print or behind the print head several inches from the head I swapped out c=for clear tubing to spot troubles like steam or run out or broken filament. Especially Matter Hacker's Wood filaments.
Thank you for the comment, I agree you need to be aware of storage of PLA. I live in Las Vegas and there is not much humidity so I don't worry about this much. Also when I start a new plane build I like to start with a new role of PLA. Cheers
Very helpful vid. Thank you Troy. There is however one item that I am struggling with on the wing section test print and that is warping. Nothing major, but the lower layers near the build plate on the side of the upper wing skin are slightly buckled (not quite an "elephant foot" because the first layer did not separate from the build plate, but off by 1 or 2 mm and definitely visible with unaided eye). I've watched your vid a number of times and I think I see that you also had this happening on your test pieces, but did not comment on it. What I've read suggests that the culprit may be too fast cooling. I've minimized this warping by running at lower temps (195 print/55 bed and fan at 5%), but this caused a loss of upper layer adhesion. I'll have to double check my settings against what you suggested but given the printer and PLA differences I would not expect perfect agreement. For my next attempt I'll go back to higher temps and increase the flow rate to make the walls a little thicker. Cheers, keep flying!
Excellent demonstration video - Greatly appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos to help others succeed. I've binge watched several of your videos since finding you on UA-cam. Just downloaded the Eclipson MV2 and will be downloading the Big Bobber later today! Subscribed. ... Update: just purchased the Big Bobber - the assembly manual is fantastic!
Thank you for an EXCELLENT description of the different settings and problems that occurs when 3D-printing. Actually one of the better I've seen (I've seen a lot lately). Get a proper microphone and its perfect, keep'em coming!
very helpful - my only criticism is that you go through the initial settings sooo fast - you obviously know they well ... but I had to rewind and replay many times lol - anyway using these guides I was able to print a perfect sample wing section
You can even adjust the playback speed in UA-cam if you want :-) (Yes, the explanations get harder to understand in the very low speed settings. It's a compromise). But I think, he just moved quickly through these settings which are on that plane-print-selling-website. So you might find the settings for these prints there.
Your troubleshooting process was really nice to see!. I'm new so your explanations and reasonings during calibration were what I needed to hear! I'll be re-watching this a few times when I start printing planes (As soon as my wife stops hogging the printer with planters and household stuff... :-) )
Yes exactly for this plane I only had one full print fail, much better than my first plane I had lots of failed print. Very painful to have 13 hour prints fail.
Troy I want to thank you for this hand-on wing test, it helped me correct 2 thing I couldn't on my own. Thank you so much!!! I appreciate the explanation with Cura, since it's what almost everyone use nowadays. Again Thanks!!!
Excellent video and good references,...just you have to slow down a bit on video with settings, since some settings gets cut off from video, or you move to fast. RW & FW doesn't help much, since some settings missing. All other things excellent, thanks a lot for great job!
Thanks for the excellent video. You did a great job in explaining the cause and effect in settings, plus this has rekindled my interest in RC , so thank you! :)
Very helpful video. Thank you. One thing is not clear. In the description under speed settings, you specify Travel speed of 80 but have 100 for print speed! That doesn't compute with me...
Great video Troy. I run a PRUSA MK3S and was able to print the test file perfectly. That's what encouraged me to purchase. Now I'm trying the wing parts and continue to have problems.
Thank you for the comment. I am surprised to hear you are having problems using that printer. It is an expensive direct drive printer. The main reason you will have different results with the wing rather than the test wing part is because of the travel it takes for the full wing is much greater that the test wing. If you watch the progress of one layer on Cura or on your printer you will notice that the extruder has to move all over the center parts of the wing to complete a layer. That results in lots of retractions that will make a lot of inconsistencies in quality. One more setting you can try is coasting in Cura not recommended but in some prints for parts with lots of reaction I use it. Good luck.
Troy thanks for responding. I contacted Planeprint and René gave me some more pointers. Nailed it! Now ready for assembly. I love the "kit". It was very well thought of.
I also had great success with the test print and based my buying decision on that. Then the struggles began. All printed well except wing parts 2 and 3. It took forever to get the settings dialed in, mostly retraction. Build almost complete, just waiting for the electronics to arrive.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I did the test wing and it came out great. The problem I'm having that on high wing or canopy parts the layers start spliting and a lot of stringing on the top. Any ideas on what I should do?
At 2:14 you said generate support set to off but you clicked it on. Or checked it on rather. Which is it supposed to be? Thanks so much for this tutorial!
I just got the lime green lw pla im about to print one of youre builds. Just cant decide what one i want for the first build ive never built one but have always wanted an rc plane. This is awesome i think ilthis is going to be alot better then printing drones. Ive build a few printed drones.
I really apreciate your outstanding work. I really apriciate. Troy, may i ask you a question? I try to make one of my blender designs a printeable RC Model. It's the polish gullwing fighter PZL 11. I convert to .stl but only the oute shape, the hull will be printed.The spars inside not 😮 Do you have any idea? I made an vid about. I'm meanwhile trying everything since some days. Cheers, Axel
Hi, Troy. Great video, lots of valuable information. I want to print a dome for a lamp and I need it to be translucent and smooth as possible. What is the best preset or settings in Cura 5.1? I thought of printing it with no infill and no top, just as it would be in vase mode, but with a 3mm shell. Can you help me, please? Thanks!
One important factor is extruder calibration. Each filament is different. E steps and flow rate are achieved by this as you may know. May have saved you some tinker time with flow rate. I think that should have been step one.
I understand that for overhand test purposes you would print the wingtest as shown, but in actual practice for an aircraft build wouldn't you want to invert it so that the widest section was on the build plate? Thanks for the channel, I'm learning a lot!
Troy! Love the channel man! Keep these awesome videos coming. I have to confess that I watched probably 3 of your videos before I recognized you from flying with you at Compass. Glad you've found a new gig in Covid world. Keep up the great work!
Can i ask, once stringing issue has been solved, does that mean all future print will no long have stringing issues? Or do we have to keep doing the stringing adjustment everytime we print something? Tks for reply and great vids, tks for sharing!
I am so glad I found this. You answered a lot of the questions I have on setting up the printer for planes. The Bobber looks like a great 3D plane to print. I might use foam for the wings as it is light and durable. of the Fuse brakes I can just print a new one.
Hi Troy. Thanks for you're help. Was wondering if you can answer a quick question? How can I get supports printed in my wings. They were working fine before.
I fly rc planes and just got started on 3d printing. I found your channel and have been binge watching your videos. I really want to make these planes and fly them. I have a Creality ender-3 v3 ke, is this printer capable of making these planes? Thanks for any help and great videos!!!!!!!
Troy thanks to your tutorial I was able to get a perfect test piece from the one supplied at Plane Print my question is can that profile be used with the Eclipson stl. files? I am having a real problem getting a good print with the Model V stl. files I have had some good success with the G Codes supplied by Eclipson on most parts but some of the Fuselage parts have not printed well. Parts showing layer lines and separation along the tube in the outer surface of the fuse. I have adjusted the temp which improved the layer line issue but still not there yet. Haven't started wing parts yet need to the fus parts right. I have printed 3 of their planes using their G Codes and had no problems. Back to your tutorial and more testing , am suspecting it maybe this batch of filament I am using. Any suggestions, thanks for the great work still getting to grips with settings it seems a little makes a big difference
You can use the retraction setting you find out for this video but other setting like Surface mode needs turned off for eclipson planes. I have not done any tutorials on the eclipson planes because with my experience they are much easier to print. I have not used any of there G code files. I just slice them in Cura. Use a new profile and set it up like the PDF eclipson has and use the retraction setting from the test part from planeprint.
Ciao! Un grande video! Sopratutto per la pazienza mostrata per farlo... Ho seguito passo passo questo video perché ho intenzione di acquistare la mia prima stampante! E comunque devo dire che sono un pò scoraggiato per gli innumerevoli test per ottenere una stampa perfetta! Troppi parametri da impostare, troppe correzioni da eseguire... Ce la farò? Vorrei un tuo consiglio... Penso di acquistare Artillery X4 Plus. Pensi che sia buona per realizzare modelli e parti di aereo? Grazie in anticipo e ottimo lavoro per te! 👋
Hi thanks for the videos. Have you ever tried ABS printing the wings. I have a problem that I could not solve it. The wing always have dent due to the shrinkage of the ABS while fuselage has no problem. I guess its the hanging area related. but just don't know how to fix it. do you have any suggestion. thank you.
Hello Troy, I made the settings you placed, but the reinforcements between the wing profile were not marked for the printer to print. Is there any parameter to activate? Thanks in advance
Hey Troy! I know I'm late to the game on this video, but have you verified your E steps on each printer? When you tell the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament is that what you get when measured? This was a massive improvement on my Ender 3, now flow rates are set to 100% and no under or over extrusion. Also measuring the diameter of your filament in multiple places along the roll and setting the exact diameter helps as well. Looks like you have this figured out anyway. Just food for thought.
Great video but have a question. The retraction settings you've listed are for Bowden tube systems? I use an Ender 3 S1 and usually use .7-.8mm retraction with a speed of 45-50. Does anyone have a good setting for DD extruders? I would be printing in regular PLA but also looking to move to using a LW-PLA. Thanks! LOVE THE CHANNEL btw!
I'm new to 3d printing, and this video consumed an entire weekend for me. Learning what all the settings do with printed examples was incredibly informative. I do have a question that I can seem to find an answer to though. I think I understand what surface mode is, and why it's useful, but from my understanding it will not make closed shapes. I want to print a model using this, but I need it to have top and bottom layers. Is there a way to do this?
Hello mate, great video. I'm learning a lot about the settings. Due to your overhang, couldn't you flip the part over so the overhang would be on the build plate or is this the only way you can have it? Thanks for sharing
Man, I don't think you realize how amazingly helpful this video actually is! Not even just for printing plane parts, just 3D print in general. You really highlight how the art of 3D print really is in the ability of the user to dial in their G-Code based on the print/application. wow thank you!
Just wanted to say that when I tripped over these videos my inner 12 year old, who had an unrequited passion for RC planes 45 years ago, sat bolt upright, started hyperventilating and made me watch every one of your videos! This may have pushed me over the edge into ordering my own printer!!!
Mind you I might see if the same thin wall techniques would apply to ship / boat models? Maybe thicker walls as weight is not as much a constraint and robustness / water tightness might be useful for things that are designed to get wet.
Great video it will help those new to thin wall printing considerably. Here are some of my observations after a few years of 3d printing airplanes. Typically in thin wall printing we use higher print temps to get the best layer adhesion...around 230° for PLA like you started out with. This is for printing at normal speeds...say around 50mm/s to 60mm/s. At those speeds and temp if you use a cooling fan you will likely have layer adhesion issues. But if you slow down the print to 30mm/s to 40mm/s, where you ended up at, then you can get very good layer adhesion at lower print temps and with the cooling fan on. This is where the stringing tests and temp towers will fool you...because stringing tests and temp towers tend to be small in size your slicer will slow down the print speeds even if you have higher print speeds selected. Because of this you may not find the correct settings using these tests. I've had temp towers show good adhesion at all temps but yet when I go to actually print a part the layer adhesion fails. So keep that in mind when using those tools...they are good to use but can lead you astray if you aren't careful. Buildup and holes...Buildup can also be caused by too much molten filament still on the tip when a travel move is made. Retraction alone is often not enough to prevent blobs from travel moves...When that happens using Coast and Wipe can fix the issue. Likewise holes are not always due to not enough prime. Sometimes they can be caused by too much retraction, coast, or wipe. Linear Advance can also help with those issues. It is considered mainly for higher speed printing but I find even on slow prints it helps.
😵💫
This is what a real engineer look like. Thank you for taking the time to explain all this. I have had my 3d printer for a few months and about 3 kilos of filament later and I still feel like a noob and constantly struggle to make a good print. I watched a lot of videos and did a bit of reading but you have helped me more in 20min then I have in the past 90 days.
One of the best print-setting tweaking videos I've seen - not just for printed planes, but all round printing. Great job.
I'm just glad to see it doesn't happen on the first try. I thought I wasted too much filament on my first airframe print, but it looks like that's just what it takes to dial it in. Thanks for sharing
The first time I tried to print an airplane about a year ago. I went threw a half of role of PLA trying to figure everything out. I use basic printers so I have all the same problems you are having with printing thin wall. If you need any other help let me know. Cheers
Best settings video I’ve ever seen. Thanks man
I'm new to 3D printing and I learned more from this one video than I did from watching hours and hours of Dr. Vax videos or all the other "beginners" videos on UA-cam. Thank you!!
This has been far the most helpful video I've seen on how to print airplane parts especially with lw-pla. Thanks so much
Brilliant tutorial, I learned more in this one 20 minute video about proper settings than I did from watching 50 other confusing half baked posts. Your explanations are clear, precise and to the point. I have to build that A321 now..... Looks gorgeous....
Hi Troy, I used to be heavy into R/C back in the hay days (Pattern, Pylon Racing, Ducted Fans) but been out for 25+ years when I got involved in full sized car racing. I dialed in my Lulbotz Taz5 on eSun PLA SUPER FAST on single layer printing using your video and I'm now printing an Eclipson Model A to get back into things! Thank you so much for this 'how to' video! I'm watching the thing print single layer and I'm amazed. I had given up 5 years ago on printing thin airfoils but now its on!
Ustawiłem wszystkie parametry zgodnie z twoją instrukcją. Efekt zadawalojący. Dziekuję!!! Creality K1 Max.Slicer Creality Print
You are wealth of 3D printing expertise. Thanks for all of your help. Gives me hope that I can use my printer to its full potential.
The settings which one you shared under video is fully worked for my ender 3 printer on first run. Thank you so much.
big help man, much appreciated!! i went straight for the struggle bus with trying to print my first plane with Silk PLA. i WAS on right track, but i do not have your experience. nicely done, thank you
Great video!! I've been trying unsuccesfully to print my first 3d printed airplane for 2 weeks. After this video, I learned A LOT about Cura and general printing. My test wing now looks and feels great! I think I'm ready to go for it!! Thank you Troy.
Great video! Really thorough job. It's awesome to see yout iterative process rather than just the finished plane.
working with special modes was starting to learn from scratch. Thank you very much teacher. saludos desde Argentina
Obviously more advanced for us rookies but this is a great primer to learn by taking it one step at a time...you cover things a little to quick for me to understand at this point but once I learn more this will help enormously! Thanks!
I just realized all of your settings listed in the description. I input them and so far it looks pretty good. I kept getting under extrusions. I saw that you had flow at 116, the most I ever put on mine before was 103~105. I think this setting made a huge difference.
Great video! It is very cool the way you demonstrate an issue then explain the way to resolve it.
Very good explanation of the various effects and cure / fixes for that perfect print !! Well Done!!
Thank you Joe
You rock buddy! I learned a lot... I started printing my wings...Its time consuming....but you helped a lot that you explained the parameters... Thank you so much.!!!
Troy you da man! Struggled with the Anet A8+ with stringing. Followed your suggestions and finally have perfect prints. Printing the Big Bobber, looking great. Haven't flown RC in many years,
. Will need to think differently from flying my tail dragged. There I have hands on for flying, instruments etc. Will be a challenge to go to the RC world. Again thanks for the great tutorial.
No problem I am happy that this helped you get your setting dialed in. Definitely the hardest part of printing rc planes. Flying RC planes is definitely a lot harder than flying full scale. Try a sim first it will save you a few rc planes. :)
Thanks for your excellent guide! Firstly I learned to navigate faster in Cura (you move like lightning!). Secondly I got my plain PLA to print perfectly at last. I had previously attained wonderful results with PLA-silk but my plain PLA was stringing badly. The key was to lower the temperature to a much lower value, based on the string tower result (I downloaded a string tower based on your video). I am delighted with the results!
awesome and clear explaining a difficult part of 3d printing. Thank you!
This gives me a lot of ideas on how to fix my plane printing profile. I previously fixed a lot of issues by changing the line width from 0.4mm to 0.44mm, but that added a bit more weight than I was happy with.
thank you, i just started 3d printing and my goal is to print an Rc plane, so much information. You really help me to understand where is the issue and how fix it or at least understand it.
Thank you
Thanks Troy. Think I learnt more about Cura settings watching your video than I've learnt in 2 years of printing. Often suffered with under extrusion on small vertical cylinders. I'm going revisit some of my failed parts on the Electra, such as the little conical prop spinners. Excellent how you go through each step and explain why it's going wrong. Cheers.
Thank you for the comment Graham, Good luck with your Electra. Let me know when you get it done. That would be awesome to see a 3D printed Electra.
@@TroyMcMillan I have printed over a hundred parts for the Electra on my beloved Anet A8. I am in the process of assembling it now. With 4 motors, flaps, lights, retracts and gear doors, it's quite a job. It's got a wingspan of 1600mm and the fuz is 1700mm long. I wanted something small enough to go in the car and big enough to get off a grass runway. I've designed all the parts in Blender, which is great for doing parts for 3D printing. Hope to get the final files on Thingiverse and Github, with more build vids on Bathog Technologies. Those designs from PlanePrints are something else though, amazing.
@@GrahamBatho Wow that will be awesome. Let me know when you have it uploaded. I may have to build that one.
this is probably one of the best 3d printing tutorial videos ive seen in ages. i can really appreciate how much work youve put into the video, much appreciated. only question is what priming actually does??
Definately the best explanation of printing issues and how to resolve them. Thank you for taking the time to make this awesome video. Now, please make a time machine backup before doing any updates to you Mac in future !! Saved my butt a few times. Cheers. Nicholas
Hi Troy,
Thanks for the nice share. I use Simplify3D and tried your techniques by downloading and printing your small test piece.
After about 4 or 5 tweaks, I got it dead on. Thanks for the tips and explanations.
My Anet A6 printer printed fine before, now it prints perfect.
I printed the fuselage and parts of the wings of PIKE r/c from thingiverse in silver PLA.
Much to my surprise, the layer adhesion of the single wall was weak and split easily at 220ºC, but was perfect at 230ºC + 100% fan after layer 1!!
Watched this again to see if I could glean some more info about the process and am happy to say that I did learn a lot more watching a second time. This is very interesting and I'd give it a try if there wasn't so much minutiae involved with printing the parts. I'm pretty sure if PlanePrint could develop templates/guides for the major 3d printers and some select filaments that provided reasonable results printing their models without weeks of effort dialing in slicer settings I'm sure they would sell a heck of a lot more planes. As it stands now I'm betting that a lot of people, including me, are turned off from purchasing from PlanePrint because of the difficulties that you discuss here in video. But In any case this is good info and I've learned a lot, thanks for sharing!
For PLA usually the fan should be running 100% all of the time (except for first layers)
Looks like increasing fan speed improved the seam issue quite a lot.
HOLY S_ _T !!!!! Too complicated for me.But I'd love to build that plane !!!!!
Excellent!!! Great 3d printing tutorial!
Sweet video. Running my test prints tonight I am down to about 1 or 2 more wing test prints and she's ready to start the real wings. I am building a big Bobber. Hope it goes well. I only had to do 2 initial wing test prints and it's dialed already with just some thin areas on the overhang at the rear top. I will up my flow a touch and pre prime. Think that will dial me right in. 2 to 3 more tops should be ready to get started on the plane. Yours came out nice! Great job thanks for sharing your setup.
Thank you for the comment. Nice job getting it dial in so quick. If the rest of the test part is good then you may be good to start printing because with the Big Bobber there is no prints that have any overhangs like the test part.
Great video. If you can use it linear advance helps a lot to fix stringing and holes/priming issues. As for layer adhesion...a good way to test is what we call the thumbnail test. Just squishing the part often won't show layer adhesion issues. Instead use your thumbnail and try to break the layers. If you can't your layer adhesion is good.
Hot damn this is the most knowledgeable 3d printing troubleshooting guy on the net
I'm trying to print single outer wall with a bottom layer and some pins but with no luck. gonna implement your suggestion and see where I am at
I did see an improvement when I checked the compensate inner and outer walls, turned it from a giant blob at seam to under-extrusion, so i guess I need to add prime
Great video! Thanks for all the advice! Im going through the tuning process for the profiles at the moment and im watching this a second time! 👍
Thanks Troy, very well explained! Not everyone likes Cura, but if the settings fit you get great results - and especially lightweight planes.
Thank you so much! This is my third 3D printed airplane using Cura, and I agree it can achieve great results. It takes a little determination to get the setting right but once you do it works perfectly.
Thanks for the vid . I want to print a plane so bad. But i am a total newbie to 3D printing. I am using cura 4.8 and a ender 3 so ill watch this vid a few more times and do some test prints. Learned alot.
Thank you for the comment. I bought my first printer just to print an airplane. With no previous experience with printing. There is a lot to learn for 3d printing hopefully this video helps you get a good start. The ender 3 is a good printer. Also the most common so there is a lot of information on the internet to help. Cura 4.8 changed a few things the main thing is that the retraction setting are now in the travel tab Not the material tab. Good luck let me know if you need any help with it.
Need a food dehydrator to dry and prep/ condition the filament especially if you're running PLA. Stringing is caused by moisture absorbed by the Plastic. Listen carefully for popping and sizzling. often you will see steam come either off the print or behind the print head several inches from the head I swapped out c=for clear tubing to spot troubles like steam or run out or broken filament. Especially Matter Hacker's Wood filaments.
Thank you for the comment, I agree you need to be aware of storage of PLA. I live in Las Vegas and there is not much humidity so I don't worry about this much. Also when I start a new plane build I like to start with a new role of PLA. Cheers
What an excellent video. So much excellent info and so comprehensive.
Excellent job!
Thanks for sharing! Watched again thanks for putting in all the hard work and time.
Very helpful vid. Thank you Troy.
There is however one item that I am struggling with on the wing section test print and that is warping. Nothing major, but the lower layers near the build plate on the side of the upper wing skin are slightly buckled (not quite an "elephant foot" because the first layer did not separate from the build plate, but off by 1 or 2 mm and definitely visible with unaided eye). I've watched your vid a number of times and I think I see that you also had this happening on your test pieces, but did not comment on it. What I've read suggests that the culprit may be too fast cooling. I've minimized this warping by running at lower temps (195 print/55 bed and fan at 5%), but this caused a loss of upper layer adhesion. I'll have to double check my settings against what you suggested but given the printer and PLA differences I would not expect perfect agreement. For my next attempt I'll go back to higher temps and increase the flow rate to make the walls a little thicker.
Cheers, keep flying!
Excellent demonstration video - Greatly appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos to help others succeed. I've binge watched several of your videos since finding you on UA-cam. Just downloaded the Eclipson MV2 and will be downloading the Big Bobber later today! Subscribed. ... Update: just purchased the Big Bobber - the assembly manual is fantastic!
Thank you so much I really appreciate the comment. Have fun with your builds let me know If I can help with anything along the way. Cheers
Ok wow i was struggling with the settings so i tried yours exactly band man the test wing part came out so well. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for an EXCELLENT description of the different settings and problems that occurs when 3D-printing. Actually one of the better I've seen (I've seen a lot lately). Get a proper microphone and its perfect, keep'em coming!
Great Video!! Really informative and great with the setting changes needed!!
Great trouble shooting video! Helped me with a few issues.
Thank you very much for the video, time and efforts
very helpful - my only criticism is that you go through the initial settings sooo fast - you obviously know they well ... but I had to rewind and replay many times lol - anyway using these guides I was able to print a perfect sample wing section
You can even adjust the playback speed in UA-cam if you want :-)
(Yes, the explanations get harder to understand in the very low speed settings. It's a compromise).
But I think, he just moved quickly through these settings which are on that plane-print-selling-website. So you might find the settings for these prints there.
Your troubleshooting process was really nice to see!. I'm new so your explanations and reasonings during calibration were what I needed to hear! I'll be re-watching this a few times when I start printing planes (As soon as my wife stops hogging the printer with planters and household stuff... :-) )
Thank you a lot, for showing special modes >surface mode
it makes a huge difference!
lol Great job Troy I have a box full of test prints also but rather have test prints then botch full print
Yes exactly for this plane I only had one full print fail, much better than my first plane I had lots of failed print. Very painful to have 13 hour prints fail.
Troy I want to thank you for this hand-on wing test, it helped me correct 2 thing I couldn't on my own. Thank you so much!!! I appreciate the explanation with Cura, since it's what almost everyone use nowadays. Again Thanks!!!
Excellent video and good references,...just you have to slow down a bit on video with settings, since some settings gets cut off from video, or you move to fast. RW & FW doesn't help much, since some settings missing. All other things excellent, thanks a lot for great job!
Thanks for the excellent video. You did a great job in explaining the cause and effect in settings, plus this has rekindled my interest in RC , so thank you! :)
I am glad to hear this. 3D printed airplane are fun to build good luck.
Thanks. Your settings are working well with my Creality 6SE.
Awesome video Troy, very helpful! Thanks a bunch!
WOW!! AWESOME VIDEO.. you really know what you're doing, very kool...💯
Very helpful video. Thank you.
One thing is not clear. In the description under speed settings, you specify Travel speed of 80 but have 100 for print speed!
That doesn't compute with me...
Thx for your vidéos, it's very great job. I try to make my first plane with fusion 360. So you are very good help for me 👍👍👍👍. Very thx from France
Great video Troy. I run a PRUSA MK3S and was able to print the test file perfectly. That's what encouraged me to purchase. Now I'm trying the wing parts and continue to have problems.
Thank you for the comment. I am surprised to hear you are having problems using that printer. It is an expensive direct drive printer. The main reason you will have different results with the wing rather than the test wing part is because of the travel it takes for the full wing is much greater that the test wing. If you watch the progress of one layer on Cura or on your printer you will notice that the extruder has to move all over the center parts of the wing to complete a layer. That results in lots of retractions that will make a lot of inconsistencies in quality. One more setting you can try is coasting in Cura not recommended but in some prints for parts with lots of reaction I use it. Good luck.
Troy thanks for responding. I contacted Planeprint and René gave me some more pointers. Nailed it! Now ready for assembly.
I love the "kit". It was very well thought of.
@@carlosperez7015 Awesome, Ya René is very
I also had great success with the test print and based my buying decision on that. Then the struggles began. All printed well except wing parts 2 and 3. It took forever to get the settings dialed in, mostly retraction. Build almost complete, just waiting for the electronics to arrive.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I did the test wing and it came out great. The problem I'm having that on high wing or canopy parts the layers start spliting and a lot of stringing on the top. Any ideas on what I should do?
At 2:14 you said generate support set to off but you clicked it on. Or checked it on rather. Which is it supposed to be? Thanks so much for this tutorial!
Supports off for all my builds sorry for the mess up
eSun ePLA-LW (Lightweight PLA) would maybe be more indicated than PLA+ for this application. Have you tried it?
BEST video EVER!!! This solved my problems.
I just got the lime green lw pla im about to print one of youre builds. Just cant decide what one i want for the first build ive never built one but have always wanted an rc plane. This is awesome i think ilthis is going to be alot better then printing drones. Ive build a few printed drones.
Awesome information. Thank you 🎉
astounding job.
how mach the wind test should be weight ?
About 4 grams
Great video. Thanks for detailed steps in tuning. Did follow it and was able to get very good print.
I really apreciate your outstanding work. I really apriciate. Troy, may i ask you a question? I try to make one of my blender designs a printeable RC Model. It's the polish gullwing fighter PZL 11. I convert to .stl but only the oute shape, the hull will be printed.The spars inside not 😮 Do you have any idea? I made an vid about. I'm meanwhile trying everything since some days. Cheers, Axel
Hi, Troy. Great video, lots of valuable information. I want to print a dome for a lamp and I need it to be translucent and smooth as possible. What is the best preset or settings in Cura 5.1? I thought of printing it with no infill and no top, just as it would be in vase mode, but with a 3mm shell. Can you help me, please? Thanks!
One important factor is extruder calibration. Each filament is different. E steps and flow rate are achieved by this as you may know. May have saved you some tinker time with flow rate. I think that should have been step one.
Link to a good tutorial I used back in the day. ua-cam.com/video/xzQjtWhg9VE/v-deo.html
I understand that for overhand test purposes you would print the wingtest as shown, but in actual practice for an aircraft build wouldn't you want to invert it so that the widest section was on the build plate? Thanks for the channel, I'm learning a lot!
Troy! Love the channel man! Keep these awesome videos coming. I have to confess that I watched probably 3 of your videos before I recognized you from flying with you at Compass. Glad you've found a new gig in Covid world. Keep up the great work!
Hello and thanks for posting. Do you cover any slicer setting using simplify3d?
Can i ask, once stringing issue has been solved, does that mean all future print will no long have stringing issues? Or do we have to keep doing the stringing adjustment everytime we print something? Tks for reply and great vids, tks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this vid.. It is the best I ever saw. Tons of information bro.. Thanks again. Peace
excellent quality prints after these settings, but I seemed to have lost the top and bottom walls after these settings, I don't know why
hello, great video on a useful topic, thanks for sharing your skills :) 👍
I am so glad I found this. You answered a lot of the questions I have on setting up the printer for planes. The Bobber looks like a great 3D plane to print. I might use foam for the wings as it is light and durable. of the Fuse brakes I can just print a new one.
Thank you for the comment. Ya that is a good idea to use a foam wing it would be light wight for sure.
Hi Troy. Thanks for you're help. Was wondering if you can answer a quick question? How can I get supports printed in my wings. They were working fine before.
I fly rc planes and just got started on 3d printing. I found your channel and have been binge watching your videos. I really want to make these planes and fly them. I have a Creality ender-3 v3 ke, is this printer capable of making these planes? Thanks for any help and great videos!!!!!!!
Troy thanks to your tutorial I was able to get a perfect test piece from the one supplied at Plane Print my question is can that profile be used with the Eclipson stl. files? I am having a real problem getting a good print with the Model V stl. files I have had some good success with the G Codes supplied by Eclipson on most parts but some of the Fuselage parts have not printed well. Parts showing layer lines and separation along the tube in the outer surface of the fuse. I have adjusted the temp which improved the layer line issue but still not there yet. Haven't started wing parts yet need to the fus parts right. I have printed 3 of their planes using their G Codes and had no problems. Back to your tutorial and more testing , am suspecting it maybe this batch of filament I am using. Any suggestions, thanks for the great work still getting to grips with settings it seems a little makes a big difference
You can use the retraction setting you find out for this video but other setting like Surface mode needs turned off for eclipson planes. I have not done any tutorials on the eclipson planes because with my experience they are much easier to print. I have not used any of there G code files. I just slice them in Cura. Use a new profile and set it up like the PDF eclipson has and use the retraction setting from the test part from planeprint.
have you considered uploading your cura profiles for download?
Ciao! Un grande video! Sopratutto per la pazienza mostrata per farlo... Ho seguito passo passo questo video perché ho intenzione di acquistare la mia prima stampante! E comunque devo dire che sono un pò scoraggiato per gli innumerevoli test per ottenere una stampa perfetta! Troppi parametri da impostare, troppe correzioni da eseguire... Ce la farò? Vorrei un tuo consiglio... Penso di acquistare Artillery X4 Plus. Pensi che sia buona per realizzare modelli e parti di aereo? Grazie in anticipo e ottimo lavoro per te! 👋
Another great video! Thank you so much!
Hi thanks for the videos. Have you ever tried ABS printing the wings. I have a problem that I could not solve it. The wing always have dent due to the shrinkage of the ABS while fuselage has no problem. I guess its the hanging area related. but just don't know how to fix it. do you have any suggestion. thank you.
Thanks a bunch. A great how to video.
Hello Troy, I made the settings you placed, but the reinforcements between the wing profile were not marked for the printer to print. Is there any parameter to activate? Thanks in advance
Hey Troy! I know I'm late to the game on this video, but have you verified your E steps on each printer? When you tell the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament is that what you get when measured? This was a massive improvement on my Ender 3, now flow rates are set to 100% and no under or over extrusion. Also measuring the diameter of your filament in multiple places along the roll and setting the exact diameter helps as well. Looks like you have this figured out anyway. Just food for thought.
Wow ya that is a good tip for sure I may do another video for this thin wall printing in the future and I will probably cover some of those tips.
Great video but have a question. The retraction settings you've listed are for Bowden tube systems? I use an Ender 3 S1 and usually use .7-.8mm retraction with a speed of 45-50. Does anyone have a good setting for DD extruders? I would be printing in regular PLA but also looking to move to using a LW-PLA. Thanks! LOVE THE CHANNEL btw!
I'm new to 3d printing, and this video consumed an entire weekend for me. Learning what all the settings do with printed examples was incredibly informative. I do have a question that I can seem to find an answer to though. I think I understand what surface mode is, and why it's useful, but from my understanding it will not make closed shapes. I want to print a model using this, but I need it to have top and bottom layers. Is there a way to do this?
Amazing videos! Troy can the entire Big Bobber be printed on an Ender 3 V2?
Hello mate, great video. I'm learning a lot about the settings. Due to your overhang, couldn't you flip the part over so the overhang would be on the build plate or is this the only way you can have it? Thanks for sharing
Just started printing airplanes and on the first wing I noticed the lines on the outside with LW PLA. Turned off sweeping and it is gone, thanks!
Very helpful info thanks