Great to know eSun do it now. Also to note that Esun have bought out their ST-PLA (Super Strong) Same weight as pla but it has properties that feel more like an HDPE plastic bottle. The specs show as inferior to pla EXCEPT that the sheer strength, Layer adhesion and mailability are more than double that of regular pla. This should be a game changer for rc aircraft where increased strength is nessesary.
Troy, I received a roll of the Colorfabb today. Your settings have been spot on for every part I've printed. Almost half way and going strong. Thank you so much for sharing!
Great video Troy. It is tough for noobs to get it right without help in the beginning. A note to inexperienced 3d printer users, not all filaments are made the same. I bought some Inland LW-PLA that gave beautiful models but the walls were .34mm thick, quite tough but very flimsy. Finely got the E-Sun LW-PLA and - bam - great parts right off. .51mm thick and weight was right on spec. I got a CR 10 V3 with the glass bed. Found that gluestick works great if you put a bit on and use a little rubbing alcohol and paper towel to smear it all over the bed real thin. Locks those parts down really well and a little bump and they pop off without damage every time. No more prying and digging. Hope you enjoy the coffee I sent last week.
Thanks again for posting this. I have a model I bought years ago from 3DLabs, the Swift S1. It's a mare to print, especially F_2.STL, as you need Cura 4.8 and 'filter tiny gaps' for the PLA parts due to the way the mesh has been rendered. Fast forwad 4 years and now we have Eclipson and 3DLabs knocking out some beautiful designs.
The slicer settings seem to be the most challenging so thanks for posting this video. You did mention that the only change for Eclipson planes is to leave Surface mode as Normal but after comparing the settings line by line with those recommend by Eclipson's A-LW profile (imported into Cura from their g-code files) I see quite a few differences and wasn't sure which one to use. I guess I could try both.
This was a great tutorial! I just started using the active foaming instead of pre-foamed. It got me really close to where I needed to be for my Neptune 4 Plus. I have been an avid RC aircraft guy for roughly 25 years now and I am having fun printing out, designing, and modifying planes.
If you pause youtube video, you can advance one frame with full stop (.) and referse one frame with comma (,). Cursor left/right skips 5 seconds and letters J, K, L skip 10 sec backwards, pause and skip 10 secs forward.
Thanks troy. Just one small point... slow down when scrolling through your settings on the screen. I keep having to replay sections over and over just to make sure I have not missed anything.
Thanks for showing the same sliced part printed on 3 different printers. That's the only area I worry about regarding settings. Your settings work great on your printer, but may not work as well on my different printer. Your showing the same part across 3 printers is significant. Cheers.
Thank you so much, i tried to do everything that i could think of to get my eSun LW-PLA to print and it just kept clogging and i couldnt get past just the base layer. Im no pro when it comes to 3d printing and ive only had my 3d printer for a few months and only printed with PLA+. You truly helped me out tremendously. Onto printing my F16 now. 😁
I used these settings for the Planes Print Eagle LW PLA parts and it solved the problems I was having. The Planes Print suggested settings produced a scorched mess full of holes on my Anycubic Vyper
Thanks Troy for the video. I didn’t quite get how you select minimum extruder travel in cura, I just understood it’s a new feature. Would you be so nice to share with us? Congrats for the amazing channel and btw, I love the airliner ))
Thanks for the comparison tests, it is good to see that more options are becoming available and this will make LW-PLA more affordable. A request if I may, would you be able to do a short video on paints in the near future? I think an explanation on paints and the pros and cons associated to weights and flight is something most of your viewers would be interested in. When I watch your videos as mentioned before I get very inspired and find my creative juices flowing with ideas of what I can do and sometimes the ideas get too carried away....... keep up the good content that keeps us dreaming and building!
Could you do strength testing with different LW-PLA filaments? For normal 3D printing you can usually improve the strength a bit by increasing the temperature but it seems that LW-PLA is really finicky with the temperature so that cheat cannot probably be used here.
You have a lot valious information in your channel. I did my first Zero A6m, follow your tips. I have two Zero now (Zero ABS/PLA 800g total weight and Zero PLA-LW ~500g). Keep your great job.
Great video Troy! Your settings are perfect for my Ender 3 with the Micro Swiss Direct drive and using Sainsmart LW PLA. The only difference was the temps because of the Sainsmart LW PLA.
Hi Troy. Thanks for all your wonderful instructional videos. I have found one problem worth noting. I am using an Ender 7. I have been working with the Eclipson Pitts (you demonstrated the build in a different video) and found that in spite of all the settings you have shown in this video, there is a G-code command M106 (sometimes more than one) in the G-code created by slicing the Epsilon STL files. These M106 codes are also in the G-codes Epsilon offers in their download too. Regardless, unless I edit out those M106 codes before printing, the nozzle temp drops precipitously to the point where the printing stops due to a heating error. That said, as long as I edit out those M106 codes from the sliced file using your slicer setup, the printing results are excellent.
Another great video! It would be really interesting to see a comparison video of your 3d printers. Do you have a favorite printer so far for printing thin wall airplane parts?
Great information thanks to your videos I have had success in printing several planes and now with the eSun LW-PLA I have finished the Plane Print Rise. Without your info I would be still printing test pieces and scratching my head what to try next. Thanks again, look forward to your next project. Might have to try the Eagle next.
hi, i'm new to plane printing and i'm using this guide to set up my esun-lw roll (first time using it). I didn't quite understand what you are saying at 4:56 regarding the new printing method. Is it a specific profile setup or is it referring to how the plane is designed? I use simplify, so i'm sure i'll have to play around with my settings, regardless.
Printing R / C models is very tempting. However, I see two serious drawbacks: - filament price. Currently, 1kg is over £ 40, meaning the larger models will be worth hundreds of pounds - temperature resistance. I'm afraid that in summer the model can easily distort from the sun Have you had any experience with this?
Troy, another great video. I have learned more from you about Cura & 3D printing than from any other source. Thank you. One of the things I'd like to see you do is setting up Cura. What fields need to be made visible in Setting Visibility? I've also noticed that at times you show the extruder and the nozzle path. How is this done? And I've seen animation controls along the bottom of your screen is some of your videos. I have only a vertical scroll bar along the right edge of the screen for going to different layers. Is the animation controls & nozzle visibility something that needs to be turned on somewhere in Preferences? A plug in? Thanks.
Curious have you printed at 250 instead of 235? The temperature data indicates that 235 is suboptimal compared to 250. I also believe the weight will be lighter and thickness will be increased which likely makes it more durable. I would love if you could comment. Thanks, your videos are great!
Well he did not respond but I did purchase eSun LW-PLA and printed a plane at 250c on my Ender3 Pro (has Capricorn tubing) and it definitely prints better than 230c. It expands more and overall stronger print.@@TheGeordietheWitchandtheWench
I have the same experience. Better results on the Ender 3 V2 using 250 C instead of 235 C (I also have the Capricorn tubing - it is the only upgrade - rest of the printer is stock).
@@TroyMcMillan I just got my first roll of Colorfabb LW-PLA, and I am now looking for a good airframe to jump into, hopefully something that can fly on an F-pack from Flite Test...
@@cadydiditcustoms6654 Im not sure what the f pack is, but a good first plane would be the model v by eclipson easy to print and flies very good, a great beginner plane
Thank you so much you have helped along with the printing. Sadly tho we have no idea how to make it so that we can have infill on the modal to help support the airfoil skilll
Great instructional videos Troy, I've learned a lot from them. In this vid you mention how to get rid of stringing printing LW PLA. Which is the newer method that you mentioned? My LW PLA test wing from Plane Print still has stringing issues.
@@TroyMcMillan CAn you elaborate? Is there a slicer setting to activate so that the head moves without stopping (as briefly shown in your video). I have a PRusa Mk3.
How do I get the wall thickness to increase. I printed a test box from 230 to 270 in 10 degree increments and really didn’t see a an big difference. Printing on a Anycubic Kobra direct drive. I printed a plane from 3d lab print. The weight of each piece was correct but the walls were thin by 1/2. It’s almost paper like rather than plastic. Any help is greatly appreciated
Awesome, what kind of printer are you using? How much did it cost to print this aircraft with LW PLA, was there a significant price difference in printing the same aircraft with Colorfast vs Esun? Are there any FPV aircraft that can be printed with LW PLA? How about strength of the LW PLA, strong enough to mount gimbled camera's? Thanks!
is there a difference between "prefoamed" and not? 235 seems too hot for my overture air PLA, and there isnt a noticeable volume increase from foaming.
Everything works with the settings on mine except it keeps making a squiggly line down one side. It does not do this on the other side. Do you know why it is doing this? I am printing with an Ender 3 Max.
Hi there, did you also printed that DC Douglas thats in your printer room? I am looking for a big model, about 2m25 to 2m50, have you done this model? Greetings Joeri
Im really struggling with lw-PLA from eSun bottom layers are spot on but as it gets about half way I am getting ribs on the outside of the layers not sure what is causing this ( using a ender 3 v3 se with cura )
Troy, what version of Cura you do use in your videos? I've seen a lot of discussions about Cura 5.3.1 (latest as of this post) having issues compared to the prior 4.12 and 4.13 releases. Do you have a recommendation?
Saw some lines in the Esun LW-pl: just some minor artifacts because of no esun specific settings, or did it crack? chilled and informative video as always!
At about 5min in you mention old an new methods of printing with the new minimizing movement of the extruder for certain Eclipson and Planeprint models. How is this only relative to these models? This is accomplished via CURA-5 settings?? (Cannot use CURA 5 with my printer. (Not understanding.))
I got the Overture lightweight pla and tried several times but your settings but then I realized this lightweight pla is pre- foamed. So I keep pre foamed set to 100% flow rate?
When flying the airplanes, dp you ever get cracks along the layer lines say in the wings because of such a thin wall? I mean when the surfaces slightly bend due to maneuver induced or load stress?
How did you figure out all of the settings for this lw pla? did they have it somewhere on the site you purchased describing all the settings, or did you just figure it out through trial and error
Noob 3d printer here. I have a FLsun v400 delta printer. If I wanted to take advantage of its speed, can I just raise the print and travel speed settings or will I run into other issues by trying to speed it up? The LW Pla prints so different from regular PLA and I’m trying to not waste too much of the LW stuff because colorfab is kinda pricey. Will have to try ESun. Thanks for the help!
This is great. Thank you for this! I have been following your Eclipson prints and have printed many of their plans with their gcodes. Will be nice to chagne them up a bit. I am curious what you are doing with the different Eclipson settings. I assume these work with the A-LW. Do you leave most of this the same for the C-LW as well; like the flow, speed, etc? What do you change for this setting?
Thank you for posting this really informative vide on light weight filament. Was wondering if you could help out with the eclipson settings on a VoxMaker slicer software. Some of the setting are not the same or it's different and sometimes get lost trying to transpose the settings between what you have on this video. Thanks in advance.
HIi and thanks for infos on cura settings for LW printing... Cool but touchy the right difference with std PLA... Watch out, my plane have guiding tubes for link servos to tail -LW will shrink these hole's dia- and squatching the steel piano wires what now???
Hi Troy, your video are very informative ... thank you for it. It works like a charm on an S1 Pro direct drive. Question: would this LW-PLA profile work the same on a bowden 3 V3 ?
Great video again.but it's funny most people don't talk about how this pla shatters if u make any mistake on landing.after all the hard work n time putting the planes together then one second mistake it's over.
Hi Troy. I'm trying to print colorfabb Varioshore TPU (tyres for my Hurricane) with my printer CR6 SE which have divert to direct drive extruder with LGX and Mosquito Hotend but can't find any profile for cura or creality. Extruder works perfect due print BLERIOT and is perfect.
Hey Troy Awesome Vids... Learned a lot from watching... Maybe one day Ill run into you at one of the flying sites as I live Vegas too... I've been using your settings in a couple of your vids to get started on an Eclipson Model S. while your print settings are nearly perfect, my prints come out with highly visible seams where the print head transitions from printing internal structure to printing the thinwall "skin". On Eclipson's models, thats mainly on the bottom of the wings. Could you point me to the settings that might help with this?? Thanks again
Hi Troy, I'm trying to print the 3dlabprint piper using these configs but the control horns are not being printed. it only prints the outline. I tried to chang the top/botton configs but it didn't work. What should I do to print it correctly?
I see that you have an SWX1. I have the same printer and also a FLSUN Q5. Hopefully, I can complete my FLSUN QQ-S Pro(Hybrid) before the end of June. I have designed and 3d printed parts for the QQ-S Pro. What profile are you using on the X1? I have S3D and Cura 4.13.1. None of the beta 5 versions will load and I have not found out why yet. I have a friend who is an RC flyer and a builder, and we are looking at collaborating on one of these builds. He is very interested in the 3d build, but does not own a printer and has never designed parts for one. His background is in aviation since he flew cargo planes during the Vietnam conflict. I have to adjust my budget to get the LW-PLA to calibrate both printers. This filament is not cheap.
I used your LW-PLA settings and of all the setting I've tried they produce the best results. I'm getting the thinnest walls. I still have one problem I have not solved and that is I still get pimples all over the print. In one airframe section I printed it has tubes for graphite rod support and the tubes have pimples in it so I can't insert a graphite rod. Any ideas on what I could try to eliminate these pimples? The stringy issues I had are gone! BTW When I print with regular PLA and the standard CURA profile I get good quality prints with out pimples or stringing.
Thanks for the video im new to 3d printing and have been watching as many videos as i can , im using a 3d printer primarily with the intention of printing rc planes and have a shop nearby that sell E SUN so that has been my go to sofar . a question i have for you or others ,is the stringing inside a wing or fuselage really an issue other than visual? ive only just started 3d printing and have started with a 2.1mtr B17 bomber in E SUN LWPLA on an ANYCUBIC KOBRA 2 MAX so far most pieces have had minimal stringing but other parts more . im thinking of trying to remove most but unless it interferes with anythin im not to fussed, another question is how much glue should i used between parts ? havent started glueing yet but suspect a thin bead of super glue and pressing together until set and perhaps a bead inside with a sprinkle of baking soda. if anyone out there has any useful hints or suggestions im all ears.
Thank you for the video. I have a 3d model airplane and want to design as you. Where can I read about your print design system (which eliminates internal passes)?
Hi Troy. Just ordered esun LW Pla. My pla prints come out great using your profiles, however they are heavier than expected. Is this due to flow rate or another setting? Thanks
Are the lw-pla wings more resilient compared to PLA when they fall to the floor or are pressed with your fingers? I made it out of PLA, but when it breaks, it breaks easily. Is lw-pla stronger than pla? Or is it similar? I wonder lw-pla is more expensive. here in Korea.
Troy, another solid video. Thanks for sharing. I still cannot wrap my head around the cost of LW PLA but, I suppose the weight is what you are paying for. About how much material do you find you use per plane? I know this is a difficult question as all planes are different, but lets use the Panthera for example.
Bonjour Troy. Je tente l'aventure de l'impression 3D. J'ai acheté du LW PLA ESUN pour imprimer un avion. Malheureusement je n'arrive pas à obtenir un résultat parfait comme toi. Peux-tu poster l'ensemble de tes réglages sous CURA 5.0.3 s'il te plais. J'imprime sur une SIDEWINDER X2. Je te remercie par avance. Salutations de France 🙂
Hello, I have problems with the stringing. At cruising speed I always get it with retract or without. I use the prusalicer but the settings are almost the same. in vase mode there is almost no cruising speed. and also no stringing. but in some prints you need closed top and bottom. On the wing where the ailerons are, the wing edge is always open, which is bad. I print that in normal mode, all settings the same but without vase mode, just 1 perimeter. How do you do it, or you Troy? Lw PLA ColorFAbb
Hi Troy - I have seen a lot of your videos, and will try to print the eagle but somehow I don't have all the options and settings in my version of Cura 4.10. I use MAC and can't find a version that just look a little like your settings - so what do I do?
Great to know eSun do it now. Also to note that Esun have bought out their ST-PLA (Super Strong) Same weight as pla but it has properties that feel more like an HDPE plastic bottle. The specs show as inferior to pla EXCEPT that the sheer strength, Layer adhesion and mailability are more than double that of regular pla. This should be a game changer for rc aircraft where increased strength is nessesary.
Troy, I received a roll of the Colorfabb today. Your settings have been spot on for every part I've printed. Almost half way and going strong. Thank you so much for sharing!
Great video Troy. It is tough for noobs to get it right without help in the beginning. A note to inexperienced 3d printer users, not all filaments are made the same. I bought some Inland LW-PLA that gave beautiful models but the walls were .34mm thick, quite tough but very flimsy. Finely got the E-Sun LW-PLA and - bam - great parts right off. .51mm thick and weight was right on spec. I got a CR 10 V3 with the glass bed. Found that gluestick works great if you put a bit on and use a little rubbing alcohol and paper towel to smear it all over the bed real thin. Locks those parts down really well and a little bump and they pop off without damage every time. No more prying and digging. Hope you enjoy the coffee I sent last week.
Hola. Bajé CURA, pero no me sale el filamento LW PLA... O tiene otro nombre en Cura???.... Gracias
I love Esun, so happy to hear they are doing their own light weight PLA!
Me too!
Thanks again for posting this. I have a model I bought years ago from 3DLabs, the Swift S1. It's a mare to print, especially F_2.STL, as you need Cura 4.8 and 'filter tiny gaps' for the PLA parts due to the way the mesh has been rendered. Fast forwad 4 years and now we have Eclipson and 3DLabs knocking out some beautiful designs.
The slicer settings seem to be the most challenging so thanks for posting this video. You did mention that the only change for Eclipson planes is to leave Surface mode as Normal but after comparing the settings line by line with those recommend by Eclipson's A-LW profile (imported into Cura from their g-code files) I see quite a few differences and wasn't sure which one to use. I guess I could try both.
Depends on the material you are printing out with!
This was a great tutorial! I just started using the active foaming instead of pre-foamed. It got me really close to where I needed to be for my Neptune 4 Plus. I have been an avid RC aircraft guy for roughly 25 years now and I am having fun printing out, designing, and modifying planes.
Thank you for all your videos! This one was SUPER helpful
PRO TIP: watch in 50% speed in settings so you can follow along in CURA
If you pause youtube video, you can advance one frame with full stop (.) and referse one frame with comma (,). Cursor left/right skips 5 seconds and letters J, K, L skip 10 sec backwards, pause and skip 10 secs forward.
Finally something that I needed to know. That’s that Ender is capable of printing plane’s parts.
Thanks troy. Just one small point... slow down when scrolling through your settings on the screen. I keep having to replay sections over and over just to make sure I have not missed anything.
I changed the youtube speed to 25% so i could read his settings.
I’m interested in printing a plane and your videos are the first I’ve heard of LW PLA
This was awesome. I'm printing my Eclipson A with eSun eLW-PLA and your setting are making the parts perfect. Thank you!
Hola. Bajé CURA, pero no me sale el filamento LW PLA... O tiene otro nombre en Cura???.... Gracias
Thanks for showing the same sliced part printed on 3 different printers. That's the only area I worry about regarding settings. Your settings work great on your printer, but may not work as well on my different printer. Your showing the same part across 3 printers is significant. Cheers.
Thank you so much, i tried to do everything that i could think of to get my eSun LW-PLA to print and it just kept clogging and i couldnt get past just the base layer. Im no pro when it comes to 3d printing and ive only had my 3d printer for a few months and only printed with PLA+. You truly helped me out tremendously. Onto printing my F16 now. 😁
I used these settings for the Planes Print Eagle LW PLA parts and it solved the problems I was having. The Planes Print suggested settings produced a scorched mess full of holes on my Anycubic Vyper
Troy, nice videos,, I was struggling with the LW PLA settings. Now having the correct settings is huge, it works great now,, thank you for sharing.
Thanks Troy for the video. I didn’t quite get how you select minimum extruder travel in cura, I just understood it’s a new feature. Would you be so nice to share with us?
Congrats for the amazing channel and btw, I love the airliner ))
I have the same question? Very poorly explained.
Thanks for the comparison tests, it is good to see that more options are becoming available and this will make LW-PLA more affordable. A request if I may, would you be able to do a short video on paints in the near future? I think an explanation on paints and the pros and cons associated to weights and flight is something most of your viewers would be interested in. When I watch your videos as mentioned before I get very inspired and find my creative juices flowing with ideas of what I can do and sometimes the ideas get too carried away....... keep up the good content that keeps us dreaming and building!
I'd recommend water based paint out of an airbrush then some sort of polyurethane clear coat. But in the past I just use rattle can
Thx for this Troy - just received my ESun LW-PLA and was strugglin but these worked a treat!! Awesome
Thanks Troy,
These settings are resulting in very clean prints.
Thanks , setting were very helpful
Could you do strength testing with different LW-PLA filaments? For normal 3D printing you can usually improve the strength a bit by increasing the temperature but it seems that LW-PLA is really finicky with the temperature so that cheat cannot probably be used here.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video.
Keep it up.
All the best!
Hermann
You have a lot valious information in your channel. I did my first Zero A6m, follow your tips. I have two Zero now (Zero ABS/PLA 800g total weight and Zero PLA-LW ~500g). Keep your great job.
Really appreciate you list your settings that really helps
Great video Troy! Your settings are perfect for my Ender 3 with the Micro Swiss Direct drive and using Sainsmart LW PLA. The only difference was the temps because of the Sainsmart LW PLA.
Have to say a big than you mate. These settings with very little tweaking were superb for my prusa mk3
Hi Troy. Thanks for all your wonderful instructional videos. I have found one problem worth noting. I am using an Ender 7. I have been working with the Eclipson Pitts (you demonstrated the build in a different video) and found that in spite of all the settings you have shown in this video, there is a G-code command M106 (sometimes more than one) in the G-code created by slicing the Epsilon STL files. These M106 codes are also in the G-codes Epsilon offers in their download too. Regardless, unless I edit out those M106 codes before printing, the nozzle temp drops precipitously to the point where the printing stops due to a heating error. That said, as long as I edit out those M106 codes from the sliced file using your slicer setup, the printing results are excellent.
Thanks for posting this. I've just started on my Planeprint Eagle and haven't got to the LW PLA parts yet.
Another great video! It would be really interesting to see a comparison video of your 3d printers. Do you have a favorite printer so far for printing thin wall airplane parts?
Great information thanks to your videos I have had success in printing several planes and now with the eSun LW-PLA I have finished the Plane Print Rise. Without your info I would be still printing test pieces and scratching my head what to try next. Thanks again, look forward to your next project. Might have to try the Eagle next.
I just saved my P3 profile as P3-LW with the LW changes. That way you can choose which one you need.
That is a good idea!
hi, i'm new to plane printing and i'm using this guide to set up my esun-lw roll (first time using it). I didn't quite understand what you are saying at 4:56 regarding the new printing method. Is it a specific profile setup or is it referring to how the plane is designed?
I use simplify, so i'm sure i'll have to play around with my settings, regardless.
Damn nice job, thanks for all the work.
You are awesome my friend!
Thank you!!
Dude! Great videos you make! I'm going to make the Longboard 1000. It should be fun project. I love it!
Printing R / C models is very tempting. However, I see two serious drawbacks:
- filament price. Currently, 1kg is over £ 40, meaning the larger models will be worth hundreds of pounds
- temperature resistance. I'm afraid that in summer the model can easily distort from the sun
Have you had any experience with this?
Where do you get your LW-PLA from I checked Colorfab and they wanted 45Eur for shipping??
He also uses eSun LW-PLA which is compared in this video. It is available on Amazon
This is such a good video! Would be interested if you came across a setting guide for prusa slicer.
I have to get a prusa first!
Troy, another great video. I have learned more from you about Cura & 3D printing than from any other source. Thank you. One of the things I'd like to see you do is setting up Cura. What fields need to be made visible in Setting Visibility? I've also noticed that at times you show the extruder and the nozzle path. How is this done? And I've seen animation controls along the bottom of your screen is some of your videos. I have only a vertical scroll bar along the right edge of the screen for going to different layers. Is the animation controls & nozzle visibility something that needs to be turned on somewhere in Preferences? A plug in? Thanks.
Thanks Troy, thats what I've been waiting for !! What printer are you using these settingsom?
Curious have you printed at 250 instead of 235? The temperature data indicates that 235 is suboptimal compared to 250. I also believe the weight will be lighter and thickness will be increased which likely makes it more durable. I would love if you could comment. Thanks, your videos are great!
Seems he doesn't comment on UA-cam :-)
Well he did not respond but I did purchase eSun LW-PLA and printed a plane at 250c on my Ender3 Pro (has Capricorn tubing) and it definitely prints better than 230c. It expands more and overall stronger print.@@TheGeordietheWitchandtheWench
I have the same experience. Better results on the Ender 3 V2 using 250 C instead of 235 C (I also have the Capricorn tubing - it is the only upgrade - rest of the printer is stock).
Good job troy. I 'll get a try with esun
I recommend it!
It doesn't seem to be available anywhere though?
@@cadydiditcustoms6654 they are out of stock at the moment, hopefully should be stocking this next month sometime!
@@TroyMcMillan I just got my first roll of Colorfabb LW-PLA, and I am now looking for a good airframe to jump into, hopefully something that can fly on an F-pack from Flite Test...
@@cadydiditcustoms6654 Im not sure what the f pack is, but a good first plane would be the model v by eclipson easy to print and flies very good, a great beginner plane
Thank you so much you have helped along with the printing. Sadly tho we have no idea how to make it so that we can have infill on the modal to help support the airfoil skilll
Great instructional videos Troy, I've learned a lot from them. In this vid you mention how to get rid of stringing printing LW PLA. Which is the newer method that you mentioned? My LW PLA test wing from Plane Print still has stringing issues.
You can't print the test part out with no stringing. Try printing out one of the parts from a plane that is designed for lw pla printing!
@@TroyMcMillan CAn you elaborate? Is there a slicer setting to activate so that the head moves without stopping (as briefly shown in your video). I have a PRusa Mk3.
Any thoughts about using pre-foamed polymaker LW-PLA?
How do I get the wall thickness to increase. I printed a test box from 230 to 270 in 10 degree increments and really didn’t see a an big difference. Printing on a Anycubic Kobra direct drive. I printed a plane from 3d lab print. The weight of each piece was correct but the walls were thin by 1/2. It’s almost paper like rather than plastic. Any help is greatly appreciated
Awesome, what kind of printer are you using? How much did it cost to print this aircraft with LW PLA, was there a significant price difference in printing the same aircraft with Colorfast vs Esun? Are there any FPV aircraft that can be printed with LW PLA? How about strength of the LW PLA, strong enough to mount gimbled camera's? Thanks!
is there a difference between "prefoamed" and not? 235 seems too hot for my overture air PLA, and there isnt a noticeable volume increase from foaming.
So helpful! Will these Cura settings work for 3D Lab Print planes?
Thank you for the video - do you also have settings for prefoamed lw pla like polylite lw pla?
Everything works with the settings on mine except it keeps making a squiggly line down one side. It does not do this on the other side. Do you know why it is doing this? I am printing with an Ender 3 Max.
Hi there, did you also printed that DC Douglas thats in your printer room? I am looking for a big model, about 2m25 to 2m50, have you done this model? Greetings Joeri
Im really struggling with lw-PLA from eSun bottom layers are spot on but as it gets about half way I am getting ribs on the outside of the layers not sure what is causing this ( using a ender 3 v3 se with cura )
A great video. I learned a lot. Thanks
So happy I could help!!
Troy, what version of Cura you do use in your videos? I've seen a lot of discussions about Cura 5.3.1 (latest as of this post) having issues compared to the prior 4.12 and 4.13 releases. Do you have a recommendation?
Troy, thank you for the video.what was the method to get rid of string problem. sorry I don't understand this part.
Saw some lines in the Esun LW-pl: just some minor artifacts because of no esun specific settings, or did it crack?
chilled and informative video as always!
I had to turn the flow rates up a little more, but ya that one piece didn't print great.
At about 5min in you mention old an new methods of printing with the new minimizing movement of the extruder for certain Eclipson and Planeprint models. How is this only relative to these models?
This is accomplished via CURA-5 settings?? (Cannot use CURA 5 with my printer. (Not understanding.))
What speed do you print at? Great video!
I got the Overture lightweight pla and tried several times but your settings but then I realized this lightweight pla is pre- foamed. So I keep pre foamed set to 100% flow rate?
Great video. Lots of good info.
When flying the airplanes, dp you ever get cracks along the layer lines say in the wings because of such a thin wall? I mean when the surfaces slightly bend due to maneuver induced or load stress?
No I haven't experienced that! It has a little flex to it, so it would probably have to be a pretty extreme situation
How did you figure out all of the settings for this lw pla? did they have it somewhere on the site you purchased describing all the settings, or did you just figure it out through trial and error
Noob 3d printer here. I have a FLsun v400 delta printer. If I wanted to take advantage of its speed, can I just raise the print and travel speed settings or will I run into other issues by trying to speed it up? The LW Pla prints so different from regular PLA and I’m trying to not waste too much of the LW stuff because colorfab is kinda pricey. Will have to try ESun. Thanks for the help!
ESUN is not selling their lightweight PLA anymore... Do you know if it will come back, or do you know a good alternative?
Have you tried using a larger nozzle to print LW PLA faster and bigger?
This is great. Thank you for this! I have been following your Eclipson prints and have printed many of their plans with their gcodes. Will be nice to chagne them up a bit. I am curious what you are doing with the different Eclipson settings. I assume these work with the A-LW. Do you leave most of this the same for the C-LW as well; like the flow, speed, etc? What do you change for this setting?
Thank you for posting this really informative vide on light weight filament. Was wondering if you could help out with the eclipson settings on a VoxMaker slicer software. Some of the setting are not the same or it's different and sometimes get lost trying to transpose the settings between what you have on this video. Thanks in advance.
HIi and thanks for infos on cura settings for LW printing... Cool but touchy the right difference with std PLA... Watch out, my plane have guiding tubes for link servos to tail -LW will shrink these hole's dia- and squatching the steel piano wires what now???
Hi Troy, your video are very informative ... thank you for it. It works like a charm on an S1 Pro direct drive. Question: would this LW-PLA profile work the same on a bowden 3 V3 ?
Great video, I wonder what is the wall thickness you use in the 3D model? Thanks
Great video again.but it's funny most people don't talk about how this pla shatters if u make any mistake on landing.after all the hard work n time putting the planes together then one second mistake it's over.
Hi Troy. I'm trying to print colorfabb Varioshore TPU (tyres for my Hurricane) with my printer CR6 SE which have divert
to direct drive extruder with LGX and Mosquito Hotend but can't find any profile for cura or creality. Extruder works
perfect due print BLERIOT and is perfect.
Thanks Troy this video saved me days of fiddling with cura. Do you know if there is a seaplane model like an icon available to print?
Troy, thanks for your videos, I am printing the Notos, is it better to print one item at a time or multiple files? Or does it matter?
Hey Troy Awesome Vids... Learned a lot from watching... Maybe one day Ill run into you at one of the flying sites as I live Vegas too... I've been using your settings in a couple of your vids to get started on an Eclipson Model S. while your print settings are nearly perfect, my prints come out with highly visible seams where the print head transitions from printing internal structure to printing the thinwall "skin". On Eclipson's models, thats mainly on the bottom of the wings. Could you point me to the settings that might help with this?? Thanks again
Hi Troy, I'm trying to print the 3dlabprint piper using these configs but the control horns are not being printed. it only prints the outline. I tried to chang the top/botton configs but it didn't work. What should I do to print it correctly?
Hi Troy, Have you ever done the same eSun LW-PLA Vid for PuraSlicer ?
I see that you have an SWX1. I have the same printer and also a FLSUN Q5. Hopefully, I can complete my FLSUN QQ-S Pro(Hybrid) before the end of June. I have designed and 3d printed parts for the QQ-S Pro. What profile are you using on the X1? I have S3D and Cura 4.13.1. None of the beta 5 versions will load and I have not found out why yet. I have a friend who is an RC flyer and a builder, and we are looking at collaborating on one of these builds. He is very interested in the 3d build, but does not own a printer and has never designed parts for one. His background is in aviation since he flew cargo planes during the Vietnam conflict. I have to adjust my budget to get the LW-PLA to calibrate both printers. This filament is not cheap.
You’re a cool guy Troy, nice info 🐐
I used your LW-PLA settings and of all the setting I've tried they produce the best results. I'm getting the thinnest walls. I still have one problem I have not solved and that is I still get pimples all over the print. In one airframe section I printed it has tubes for graphite rod support and the tubes have pimples in it so I can't insert a graphite rod. Any ideas on what I could try to eliminate these pimples? The stringy issues I had are gone! BTW When I print with regular PLA and the standard CURA profile I get good quality prints with out pimples or stringing.
Thanks for the video im new to 3d printing and have been watching as many videos as i can , im using a 3d printer primarily with the intention of printing rc planes and have a shop nearby that sell E SUN so that has been my go to sofar . a question i have for you or others ,is the stringing inside a wing or fuselage really an issue other than visual? ive only just started 3d printing and have started with a 2.1mtr B17 bomber in E SUN LWPLA on an ANYCUBIC KOBRA 2 MAX so far most pieces have had minimal stringing but other parts more . im thinking of trying to remove most but unless it interferes with anythin im not to fussed, another question is how much glue should i used between parts ? havent started glueing yet but suspect a thin bead of super glue and pressing together until set and perhaps a bead inside with a sprinkle of baking soda. if anyone out there has any useful hints or suggestions im all ears.
Thank you for the video. I have a 3d model airplane and want to design as you. Where can I read about your print design system (which eliminates internal passes)?
try Polymaker Polylite, I have printed 3 planes with this filament and it prints easy.
Hi Troy. Just ordered esun LW Pla. My pla prints come out great using your profiles, however they are heavier than expected. Is this due to flow rate or another setting? Thanks
Are the lw-pla wings more resilient compared to PLA when they fall to the floor or are pressed with your fingers? I made it out of PLA, but when it breaks, it breaks easily. Is lw-pla stronger than pla? Or is it similar? I wonder
lw-pla is more expensive. here in Korea.
What release Cura are these settings for? I am using 5.3.1, the settings in your video seem to work fine. Thnx
Troy, another solid video. Thanks for sharing. I still cannot wrap my head around the cost of LW PLA but, I suppose the weight is what you are paying for. About how much material do you find you use per plane? I know this is a difficult question as all planes are different, but lets use the Panthera for example.
It expands to twice it's original size so it like having 2 kilos of filament in volume so half the price and you get a better idea of value
Bonjour Troy. Je tente l'aventure de l'impression 3D. J'ai acheté du LW PLA ESUN pour imprimer un avion. Malheureusement je n'arrive pas à obtenir un résultat parfait comme toi. Peux-tu poster l'ensemble de tes réglages sous CURA 5.0.3 s'il te plais. J'imprime sur une SIDEWINDER X2. Je te remercie par avance. Salutations de France 🙂
Hello, I have problems with the stringing. At cruising speed I always get it with retract or without. I use the prusalicer but the settings are almost the same. in vase mode there is almost no cruising speed. and also no stringing. but in some prints you need closed top and bottom. On the wing where the ailerons are, the wing edge is always open, which is bad. I print that in normal mode, all settings the same but without vase mode, just 1 perimeter. How do you do it, or you Troy? Lw PLA ColorFAbb
Hi Troy - I have seen a lot of your videos, and will try to print the eagle but somehow I don't have all the options and settings in my version of Cura 4.10. I use MAC and can't find a version that just look a little like your settings - so what do I do?
You mention MINIMUM EXTRUSION METHODS to eliminate stringing within LW PLA parts. How do I implement this? Thanks
Hello, great video. Would you be so kind to share your printing profile so that I could import it in Cura? Thanks
Have you tryed the polylight from polymaker??
great info. I keep getting lines on my parts where its not extruding properly on my lw pla , any idea what to try different
I would try to check your belt tension and roller wheels on your printer for this problem!
What printer would you suggest if my work involves only working with light weight PLA, that too for small parts ?
are you using 0,4 or 0,8 nozzle?
Hola... No me sale en ningun slicer, la opción LW PLA.
Is there a big difference is the strength of the parts, PLA vs LW-PLA? Thank you