Thanks for the update. Just got my first printer, an Ender 3 Pro and have just done a couple of test prints using Cura 5.1 (not planes.) Good to know about the limitations, so will download Prusa Slicer before starting the prints from your site. Your Models remind me of a glass Mini Blade I used to own and the videos show similar performance. Looking forward to flying these.
Mini Blade, Destiny, couple of others... loved flying them too, hated crashing them... which I did, and many more. My 3D printed stuff flies like a molded glass model... not quiet like carbon, but close... for less than balsa wood cost. I crash these a lot too, but laugh and just print another.
I have printed one of your planes using cura. had plenty problems but eventually got there, about 6 months ago I found prusa and what a difference, getting great results, thanks for the .ini files, great job
I recently got into 3D printing mostly to build my own RC planes. Your video is very informative and I appreciate that you have put together the ini file for various filaments to be used with a Prusa slicer. I need to get a bit more confident in using my printer before attempting to print an RC plane with LW-PLA. Thank you🙏🏼
I just picked up the pika! I'm trying to tune Polymaker LW-PLA on a prusa mk3 with prusa slicer. Are there some critical setting to adjust with this lw-pla vs regular pla? Awesome work!
I agree that S3D is the best thin wall slicer for RC planes. I really have no desire to move to Cura or Prusa, but many who tinker say Prusa is the better of the two. I just wish that S3D offered their 5.x as a free upgrade. It looks to have great new features. I just liked and subscribed - looking forward to your builds and 3D insights.
I literally just started using Prusa last week having only used cura prior. The Prusa interface is so so much nicer. I also love that I can easily add a custom g code by layer.
I also like that PrusaSlicer allows you to turn off the Arachne slicer. Most parts print awesome with Arachne, but there are a few that do better in classic mode. Cura will only do Arachne unless you load an older version.
Personally i think the surface modeling technique can give alot more control and accuracy than modeling as a solid. At least it has been for me. When you think of how the surface method of slicing works with a surface model it makes thing very intuitive. Ever vertical surface represents a path the tool head will follow when sliced. This has made it extremely easy for me to design wings and fuselages that have next to 0 travel and are 99% a continuous print. Trying to do this as a solid i found i run into issues of the part merging were i dont want it to. Or to much or to little filament were i dont want it. I love you videos and plane development! Keep it up! What ever style works best for you is the way to go. And your a fellow SW user extra points there!
Totally get it. I love the innovation this is creating. I don't think the 99% continuous print would have come about without the travel issues Cura had/has with foaming materials.... but I don't know where it came from. Prusa now will import a STEP file. Might over come the "merging" issue you mention, which I think is from the STL generation and reinterpretation in the Slicer. I might have experienced the same thing.
15:25 - prusa (or any self respecting slicer) can print multiple SMALL parts faster when they are on the same build plate, than if you print them one by one, the estimator is not broken. Reason is not that unintuitive if yout hink about it. There is a minimum time before you can start a new layer - to allow the previous layer to solidify, thus you have to wait that much - or slow down that much before you could start the next layer. If you have multiple parts on the same buildplate, that time is not wasted by idling or slowing down, as in that time you can work on a different part thats on the same buildplate.
yep, the Prusa configuration I started wit had this set to 15 sec as default... Cura default was 10 sec. I never do multiple part prints in Cura because it does not organize part to part travels very well.... Prusa is way better, has its limitations, but better.
Great illustrated video. I have a question on string issues on my prints. I'm using the Prusa slicer 2.7.0 just updated, but even the previous version had the same issues. I found that Prusa slicer is better than Cura. My Filament I use is Overture Air PLA for my RC plane builds but still getting the string. I have tried several settings in the slicer and the results are the same, if not worst. What suggestions do you have to correct my problem based on your settings?
Printed a wing saddle/center fuselage with the Prusa 2.5 slicing and the .ini file today, just generic PLA but it came out really nice. I think I am going to reprint the handful of other parts I did in Cura...
Cura still works, and parts printed with it will still fly just fine. If Cura or Prusa get the "Outside before Inside" to work with this new engine the skins will be even better...
Awesome! Thanks. What are main websites are selling rc airplanes model stl files that are simple to print and build ? Do the plans come with building instructions or power setup requirements or I will be left with a bunch of plastic pieces and I need to guess which ones go together? Is using light pla a must or normal is ok , and usually how many filaments one need to build an airplane of a wingspan say of 1500mm. A lot of questions! Thanks
15:18 Maybe it prints multiple models simultaneously faster than individually because of the waiting to cool down the filament. So if you have small cross sections it has to wait (the time can be changed in the settings) so the next layer won't smush the previous layer. And in this waiting time it can already print the other parts. Just an idea 😉 Tell me if this helped you ✌🏻
Yep, that is exactly what it is. Prusa Default is 15sec, Cura Default is 10sec. 10s must match the parts well so never an issue. Prusa's 15s might be a bit much... Need to run some parts at 10s in Prusa to compare quality.
Thx so much for this Video. I have still issues to bring my Blender 3 D aircraft Modells in cura to print. Just a quesion, Do you modell your Modells with inner and outer wall or just as simple mesh? Is Prusa free? Cheers, Axel
Prusa is free. My CAD output is exactly what I want to print... I do not use any of the slicer modeling or surface changes. This is different than what many others do, but I have my reasons.
Many thanks for a very interesting video, I have used Simplify 3D since I started 3D printing for this hobby, as you pointed out it works with thin wall parts. I have tried using Cura but found it frustrating, and difficult to use. Will now update my Prusa slicer and see how I get on with it.
Prusa seams to be adopting many of the Simplify3D slicing features that have made it so powerful, but has much easier part interface than Simplify3D..... The support structure stuff is still not as good in Prusa, but you don't use that at all in the thin wall airplane stuff... well I don't.
Good video BUT! I've been looking at videos about LW-PLA for along time now and decided to give it a try. My problem isn't with settings.....it's with 'how to start' the print. I've set my Start G-code to do a gantry level then a 25point ABL. The problem is that by the time the nozzle is ready to actually print the part the LW-PLA has leaked out of the nozzle. It starts to print but nothing comes out for over 1 minute then when it does the material is burnt and doesn't stick to the bed properly. I'd love to see 'HOW' you actually 'start' the print. Do you make an extra long skirt or brim before the print?
First, make sure your Start gcode still has a "Prime Line" section where it runs a line of material at 100% extrusion and make sure it is in the right place. It should happen after the auto bed leveling (ABL) just before the end of the Start gcode section. This is a very important step... If it is included and in the right place it is possible your prime / start code can be modified to do more purge...... I think the skirt and or brim runs at the extrusion multiplier rate set for the part, so it is only pushing 40-50% so that is why it takes so long for it to catch up. I rarely use auto bed leveling (ABL) for LW-PLA, it only does the initial z-height. When printing the foaming LW-PLA multiple parts are a problem... so I only print one part at a time and the 24point ABL is way overkill for one part. Manually leveling the bed is easy and will also make you ABL work better for bigger prints.
@@soarkraft Your comment about 'prime' speed versus 'print' speed makes sense after all, that's how we set the speed in Cura. I had eliminated the 'prime' line from my prints in favor of increasing the skirt or brim parameters. I set my 'start G code' to do a 'gantry level', then, 'home' and then a '25point ABL' before every print which I really don't like. It takes about 6min to complete. I'd rather do that check once and just start printing right away (no gantry check, homing nor ABL). After all, why repeat these checks if the prints are good and the printer hasn't been shut down. One more question. If we uncomment '#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28' in Marlin and put 'M420 S1' in my Cura 'start G Code', will the printer software 'remember' the mesh before printing. What I want to do is 'calibrate' my printer just once BEFORE printing then execute my prints without performing the gantry leveling, homing and ABL every time except for doing a 'prime line'. Your opinion is very much valued. Thank you.
So Im pretty sure that is how it works... The G29 command does the ABL routine and then the 'M420 S1' will recall this data on the next print.... save the data and you want need to do it again, my Sidewinder X2 will save the data to the eeprom if you tell it to in the menu ... you can also adjust the initial z = 0 height. This stores it so it is saved even after you turn off the printer and turn it back on.... otherwise you will need to rerun G29 / or ABL from the printer menu every time you turn on your machine. This may be different on the particular machine you are using.... but it is probably similar.
@@soarkraft So this is what I've set-up since we started this discussion. From what I've seen if we activate RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28' in Marlin it will automatically do that when starting the print even if the printer performed a 'homing' first. You can put the M420 S1 as a precaution in the 'start G-Code'. That's what I did. PLUS. I added a 320mm 'prime line' running horizontally across the front of the bed so I can keep an eye on it then either add a wide skirt or brim before actually printing the part. So my process is. Turn on the printer. Bring hotend temp to 150c and bed to 60c. I use the LCD to level my gantry, then, 'home' XYZ. After that I do my 25 point ABL and save to EEPROM once prompted. I then start the print. I removed 'homing' from the 'start' g-code so the printer heats up, runs the 'prime' line, then does the skirt/brim and by that time most of the non-useable filament has been extruded. I printed several boxes 40mm x 40mm x 10mm using this method and my 3rd test print is just beautiful. The walls measure 0.39mm - 0.41mm which is quite acceptable in my view. Also, now I can start another print WITHOUT doing a gantry level, Home XYZ nor create another new mesh. I simply hit 'print', she goes up to temperature, draws a prime line and begins the print with a skirt or brim. Thanks very much for your valued input and opinions as they really helped me in solving this surprising discovery when using LW-PLA for the first time.
Hello I use simplify3D and LwPLA makes lot of confusion to me. I get surface that isn't smooth and some stringing. Can you share your profile ti me? In vase mode the outline Is perfect but the intenral structure of the party ( wings, fuselage) is removed... Thank you
In the thin wall section in the advanced tab you can sellect "perimeters only" or "allow single wall" for external and internal walls... and I always select "allow single wall" for internal walls. For exterior walls I use "perimeter only" for the foaming LW-PLA, and the "allow single wall" for most other materials. You may also need to adjust the single extrusion section in the same tab - I do 20% min and 200% max... a be sure you have the Extrusion width (first tab) set to the right Extrusion width for you model... soarKraft models are all .40 and I have it set to manual. This "perimeters only" verses "allow single wall" is most evident in the Soarkraft wings and fins because it transitions from one wall thickness to two walls for the front D-box structure. You can make these changes and slice the part and see what it is doing on each layer in the preview... including travels and such. the "perimeters only" with the polymaker LW-PLA might be worth toying if you are not happy with using the same PLA settings.
Printing multiple parts can be faster when minimum layer time is a factor. It doesn’t have to slow down to let the last layer cool if it’s working on another part.
Did you try Cura 'Surface Mode' or did you try to reduce the wall line width?? Or spiralise mode? All will work. Also, all your sliced models look like they have 2 walls. They must be very heavy??
So "surface mode" in Cura is specific to CAD designs that are just surface representations of the shape and then the slicer gives it thickness... this was a unique feature of Cura... now Prusa does it too..There is also a "Vase Mode" method some designs use. I don't use these, my models are "Normal Mode"... where my model is exactly what I want printed. In my designs I wanted to use single and multi walled sections in the same part. I was able to design strong lightweight parts that can print and fly from regular PLA and handle landing in rough areas... Two wall Leading edge, single wall for the rest of the wing + internal structure.
Hi. No; Cura Surface mode takes a solid model and only 'sees' and prints the surface. It can be a good way to reduce travel moves which is important when using light weight PLA's (or even normal PLA). Spiralise mode only prints the surface as well however, it does so without a layer change point as it just spirals its way up the print. Very useful once again for single wall light weight PLA. The method I use is called Negative Internal Modeling where you cut thin slices in a solid model to produce internal structure. Very powerful once you get your head around it. For both 1 and 2 walls in the same print you can use the Cura modifiers but that's too complicated to explain here ;-)@@soarkraft
Yep, different ways of doing it. I have tried these methods and several other too. I am not using any of those methods. My CAD model represents exactly what I want to print, 100% fill, no slicer tricks. My parts will print the same way in multiple slicers. I make files for other to print, most of my users are new to 3D printing and have a hard enough time interfacing with Cura... adding modifiers would be a disaster. However I am also an aerospace engineer and I know what I want in a model.... and I have the CAD resources and knowledge to pull it off. I am actually trying to get away from Cura because it is not as good, has terrible nozzle path artifacts, and the user interface is outdated. @@mytubehkjt
Good day sir i would be grateful to receive any feedback from you asking for help i purchased the a30m by geeetech i have tried to print the test file on micro sd card by the manufacturer the print failed to complete the print the dogs head was incomplete and the overall quality was poor i tightened the z axis gantry and tried a second print hoping that the z axis was loose and wobbling thus affecting the print quality the second print was even worse as the head of the dog fell off and i had to stop printing immediately i also installed a 3d touch sensor the sensor works as the pin extracts and retracts accordingly however when i click auto bed leveling i get an error message "test failed" when i click on auto bed leveling the bed moves on the x axis then jerks and stops before reporting "test failed" i however managed to manually level the bed before the first and second print the bed moved as expected when i click on the manual level button the bed would first move on the z axis to clear any obstruction then on the x axis towards the centre . it is my first printer and difficult to find people with the a30m printer online i have pictures of the first print and wish someone would help sincerely ejike
You can add whatever hinges you want to your model, there is no right way to do it. Just cut your own slot. These hinges have been tested to 120+ mph with no in-air issues, most damage happens with hard landings. Have you tried Silicone Hinges (I actually use Quick Grip - dry time of about 10 min) - they are really easy and work great - video on my channel - one long thin flexible "membrane" hinge.
Well I have Simplify3D and prefer it as well, also an engineer. Do you have the settings you prefer for that? I didn't see anything on the web site and noticed in the video your settings are not default. I tend to use Prusa printers and filament for the reason that I don't like to spend all my time trial and error on the printer and parts printing. I want the "rapid", in rapid prototyping when it comes to planes. 🙂
I have not included Simplify3D stuff because it was confusing too many and the program was out of date. I recently updated my modeling technique and with the new Simplify3D 5.0 it has become a topic again... and I need to do a follow up video for this.
Good info thanks. How about filling in about S3D? Can your models be sliced well now that you modified them to work with the hobby slicers? I’ve tried some models from other sites which don’t work out well with S3D but okay with my friend’s Cura!
I will be doing a video soon about the new SImplify3D 5.0 release and talk about it specifically. The adjustments for Cura did add weight initially that I did not want to add, but I was able to fix this later with better geometry. I learned to live with Cura... got it to work really well, but it is still a pain to use.
Just upgraded to 5.0.1 and it still doesn’t like aeroplanes! I did manage a workaround but it is not ideal. I had to have 3 processes, 1 for the bottom layers if they have infill, 1 for the single skin and another for filled top layers. The single skin had to have manual width of 0.2 or less and increase the flow to about 90% to compensate. Then the result was quite good - except if there was any ‘infill’ in the single skin section where it over extruded because of the narrow width setting. Trying PrusaSlicer; so far with mixed results, but easier GUI than Cura!
Prusa has a setting to turn it on and off. I always use it... (Arachne or Classic) In Cura it is always on, but not implemented as well. (unless they changed it recently)
@@soarkraft I believe you are correct. Like you said in the video, you almost have to design for a specific slicer to get good results. I haven't tried one of yours yet, but it's on the list. Just have several plane projects already in the works I really need to finish first... lol.
Prusa is nice to use. Simplify 3d is quite powerful and can do all the special things I need. More power is because it has more tools and settings and thus more complicated. But sometimes that is necessary. Cura is free and most planes purchased provide settings but otherwise, it is not as nice to use
Prusa is free too and I can provide a configuration file that can be imported for the printing and filament settings, and you just have to set it up with your specific printer.... for printing SoarKraft models... you are on your oun for printing someone elses files.
Nope. Both are open source, but very different base programs. Cura and Slic3r are very different... Slic3r / Prusa / Bambu / Orca are similar. Cura users were developing the Arachne Perimeter Engine... it was available as a plug in... but completely open for everyone to see and use. The Slic3r community just copied it, and then implemented it better. Cura still has not gotten it right... even the new 5.5 is not right.... and with all of the other issues I have had with Cura over the years I am glad to have better options to use.
Yes.. that's it, so you are referring to the "Cooling Thresholds" section "slow down if layer print time is below XXX sec" in the Filament Setting/Cooling section and it is set to 15 sec as default... wow I did not know it had so much of an effect... and what is the right number for this for these thin wall structures??? I will have to do some experimenting.
Well, before Prusa 2.5, were they incorporated Arachne, it could not print wings and fins.... we it could but had major issues, it had a real hard time with thin walls... it did great with fuselage parts (two wall thicknesses or more). Cura was the go to until Fall 2022 ..... been very busy since then... new slicers and printers almost weekly
Hello; like to know,what I have to buy to print airplane parts and wings,what software to use,also,you can design your own wings and cambers,,,,,so what I have to do to get started,,,,,,,thanks
Not yet on the CURA 5.2.1! It is changing so fast I can't keep up. My PLA-LW setting is on my website on the material and setting page, its a spread sheet looking thing about half way down. It has issues as my video indicates, but Cura is sending out updates weekly, if not daily, so it might mostly work but need a tweak.
No. Printing in vase mode requires a very particular CAD model. My models are designed to print like a regular part, where the model represents exactly what should be printed. The “vase mode” only prints the outer skin and “tricking” the slicer into printing internal structure… it’s cool but has its limitations
I clicked on the "Download or WIndows" and it had all of this capabilities and could identify boat loads of different printers... not sure what the "All drivers and Apps" is. I know they have a g-code viewer that opens a separate window, which works for me, but maybe there is more? I don't remember this other option, maybe it is new?
I am a Solidworks user and I have designed a wing with cross ribs >45 degs. But I cannot use the Spiral Vase mode. When vase mode selected, PrusaSlicer completely ignores internal ribs. I posted this issue on SW forum but no response yet. Has anyone experience this issue?
I have no idea, I have not seen the Bambu Labs slicer... but I would guess that it is possible. For the Foaming LW-PLA it will likely not be any faster than an Ender 3.... you can only print one part at a time, and there are speed / layer cooling requirements for the material to print right...... but I have not tried it. I love the idea of the X1 and the P1P... it is so awesome that someone is making, or trying to, make a better printer.
@@soarkraft Are your slicer key parameters for slicing various filament materials documented in something other than a Prusaslicer .ini file where someone could manually enter them into another slicer, like BambuStudio?
@@soarkraft perfect thanks. Just came across you yesterday via a Friend and we have purchased the files and have printed the Fus already today. Great vids thanks!!
SL_ST WINGS in progress GrabCAD Hi! I also really like Simplify for the way it builds thin walls. Neat continuous loops without unnecessary breaks. I watched your video here and decided to make a model of a loop for a wing. I will be glad if you look and voice your opinion.
on the materials page on my website I have a download for the Prusa Slice and the LW-PLA settings will work with ColorFabb LW-PLA soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings
Interesting video. I've noticed combing issues on Cura 5.2.1 when I'm slicing Eclipson files. Some do better with combing off and some better with it set to all. I don't understand specifically what's going on but I check each part. I need to get comfortable with Prusa Slicer. Which SoarKraft would you recommend for a noob to fixed wings?
I don't think combing mode works in Cura 5.0 - 5.2.1 with the Arachne stuff, none of the setting seam to really change the travel path. In Cura 4.11-4.13 it worked well. I am hoping they fix it. Prusa Slicer 2.5 has a setting "Avoid Crossing perimeters" that works similar to a working combing mode.... well for SoarKraft models. I have not been keeping up with all of the other companies and there slicer issues with the new releases. The Soarkraft models are performance oriented, but not that hard to fly. I recommend the MH32 airfoil, which is available when selecting the wing. Higher lift, more predictable at slower speeds and works well with the power pod. I do have more models coming soon.
@@soarkraft Cool, I can wait to try one when my skill level gets a bit better. I know we are on the cusp of a Cura release so that may address some of these issues. Do you know when the high temp foaming PLA will be released?
the colorfabb LW-PLA-HT is already available, but you have to order it from Europe. Direct from Colorfabb - $40 per spool + $40 shipping... and only 750g spool. expensive. 3dJake - $45 per spool + $20 shipping. Better No one in the US is carrying the HT stuff yet. Only a couple places carry the Colorfabb - Matterhakers
@@soarkraft Thank you again! I hadn't seen the HT with Jake. eSun prints well but I wanna try white and red so I may go for the regular LW-PLA, what's the advantage of the HT of the regular LW-PLA?
Have not used it, I will check it out. There are lots of slicers out there... I just can't believe how many use Cura and how difficult it is to use beyond basic stuff...
@@soarkraft You are totally right. Was never a cura fan. Ideamaker also has this dynamic extrusion width setting. They make no marketing about it. Its just there =)
I'm so thankful to Cura that they are opensurce and allow PrusaSlicer to just copy such awesome features 👍🏻
Sort of wish Cura would do it "back" to improve some if its bad habits.
Clear , concise nicely paced video assumes no prior knowledge . Excellent
Hello Prusa Slicer config files for LW-PLA are really great , and work nicely with elipson model and prusa mk3. Big up for your sharing . Thank you 🙏
thanks for the update Soarcraft👍
more coming... keep watchin'
Thanks for the update. Just got my first printer, an Ender 3 Pro and have just done a couple of test prints using Cura 5.1 (not planes.) Good to know about the limitations, so will download Prusa Slicer before starting the prints from your site. Your Models remind me of a glass Mini Blade I used to own and the videos show similar performance. Looking forward to flying these.
Mini Blade, Destiny, couple of others... loved flying them too, hated crashing them... which I did, and many more. My 3D printed stuff flies like a molded glass model... not quiet like carbon, but close... for less than balsa wood cost. I crash these a lot too, but laugh and just print another.
Thank you so much for your brilliant informative video!
I have printed one of your planes using cura. had plenty problems but eventually got there, about 6 months ago I found prusa and what a difference, getting great results, thanks for the .ini files, great job
My new files are even better.
I recently got into 3D printing mostly to build my own RC planes. Your video is very informative and I appreciate that you have put together the ini file for various filaments to be used with a Prusa slicer. I need to get a bit more confident in using my printer before attempting to print an RC plane with LW-PLA. Thank you🙏🏼
Very insightful. Thanks for putting this together.
I just picked up the pika! I'm trying to tune Polymaker LW-PLA on a prusa mk3 with prusa slicer. Are there some critical setting to adjust with this lw-pla vs regular pla? Awesome work!
GREAT brief on thin wall printing. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Odd never had a problem with cura printed over 8 models no issue printed beauitiful prints .
I agree that S3D is the best thin wall slicer for RC planes. I really have no desire to move to Cura or Prusa, but many who tinker say Prusa is the better of the two. I just wish that S3D offered their 5.x as a free upgrade. It looks to have great new features. I just liked and subscribed - looking forward to your builds and 3D insights.
I literally just started using Prusa last week having only used cura prior. The Prusa interface is so so much nicer. I also love that I can easily add a custom g code by layer.
so many more Prusa features to discover... you will be pleased
I also like that PrusaSlicer allows you to turn off the Arachne slicer. Most parts print awesome with Arachne, but there are a few that do better in classic mode. Cura will only do Arachne unless you load an older version.
Loved the video man!
Personally i think the surface modeling technique can give alot more control and accuracy than modeling as a solid. At least it has been for me. When you think of how the surface method of slicing works with a surface model it makes thing very intuitive. Ever vertical surface represents a path the tool head will follow when sliced. This has made it extremely easy for me to design wings and fuselages that have next to 0 travel and are 99% a continuous print. Trying to do this as a solid i found i run into issues of the part merging were i dont want it to. Or to much or to little filament were i dont want it.
I love you videos and plane development! Keep it up! What ever style works best for you is the way to go. And your a fellow SW user extra points there!
Totally get it. I love the innovation this is creating. I don't think the 99% continuous print would have come about without the travel issues Cura had/has with foaming materials.... but I don't know where it came from.
Prusa now will import a STEP file. Might over come the "merging" issue you mention, which I think is from the STL generation and reinterpretation in the Slicer. I might have experienced the same thing.
15:25 - prusa (or any self respecting slicer) can print multiple SMALL parts faster when they are on the same build plate, than if you print them one by one, the estimator is not broken.
Reason is not that unintuitive if yout hink about it.
There is a minimum time before you can start a new layer - to allow the previous layer to solidify, thus you have to wait that much - or slow down that much before you could start the next layer.
If you have multiple parts on the same buildplate, that time is not wasted by idling or slowing down, as in that time you can work on a different part thats on the same buildplate.
yep, the Prusa configuration I started wit had this set to 15 sec as default... Cura default was 10 sec. I never do multiple part prints in Cura because it does not organize part to part travels very well.... Prusa is way better, has its limitations, but better.
Great illustrated video. I have a question on string issues on my prints. I'm using the Prusa slicer 2.7.0 just updated, but even the previous version had the same issues. I found that Prusa slicer is better than Cura. My Filament I use is Overture Air PLA for my RC plane builds but still getting the string. I have tried several settings in the slicer and the results are the same, if not worst. What suggestions do you have to correct my problem based on your settings?
Printed a wing saddle/center fuselage with the Prusa 2.5 slicing and the .ini file today, just generic PLA but it came out really nice. I think I am going to reprint the handful of other parts I did in Cura...
Cura still works, and parts printed with it will still fly just fine. If Cura or Prusa get the "Outside before Inside" to work with this new engine the skins will be even better...
Really great video. Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks. What are main websites are selling rc airplanes model stl files that are simple to print and build ? Do the plans come with building instructions or power setup requirements or I will be left with a bunch of plastic pieces and I need to guess which ones go together? Is using light pla a must or normal is ok , and usually how many filaments one need to build an airplane of a wingspan say of 1500mm. A lot of questions! Thanks
I have other videos - my channel is all about 3D printed RC planes from SoarKraft - check out the SoarKraft website.
@@soarkraft thank you so much 👌
15:18
Maybe it prints multiple models simultaneously faster than individually because of the waiting to cool down the filament.
So if you have small cross sections it has to wait (the time can be changed in the settings) so the next layer won't smush the previous layer. And in this waiting time it can already print the other parts.
Just an idea 😉
Tell me if this helped you ✌🏻
Yep, that is exactly what it is. Prusa Default is 15sec, Cura Default is 10sec. 10s must match the parts well so never an issue. Prusa's 15s might be a bit much... Need to run some parts at 10s in Prusa to compare quality.
Didn’t see this reply when I answered. Need to look through the comments better before I post. lol
Thx so much for this Video. I have still issues to bring my Blender 3 D aircraft Modells in cura to print. Just a quesion, Do you modell your Modells with inner and outer wall or just as simple mesh? Is Prusa free? Cheers, Axel
Prusa is free. My CAD output is exactly what I want to print... I do not use any of the slicer modeling or surface changes. This is different than what many others do, but I have my reasons.
Many thanks for a very interesting video, I have used Simplify 3D since I started 3D printing for this hobby, as you pointed out it works with thin wall parts.
I have tried using Cura but found it frustrating, and difficult to use.
Will now update my Prusa slicer and see how I get on with it.
Prusa seams to be adopting many of the Simplify3D slicing features that have made it so powerful, but has much easier part interface than Simplify3D..... The support structure stuff is still not as good in Prusa, but you don't use that at all in the thin wall airplane stuff... well I don't.
Good video BUT! I've been looking at videos about LW-PLA for along time now and decided to give it a try. My problem isn't with settings.....it's with 'how to start' the print. I've set my Start G-code to do a gantry level then a 25point ABL. The problem is that by the time the nozzle is ready to actually print the part the LW-PLA has leaked out of the nozzle. It starts to print but nothing comes out for over 1 minute then when it does the material is burnt and doesn't stick to the bed properly. I'd love to see 'HOW' you actually 'start' the print. Do you make an extra long skirt or brim before the print?
First, make sure your Start gcode still has a "Prime Line" section where it runs a line of material at 100% extrusion and make sure it is in the right place. It should happen after the auto bed leveling (ABL) just before the end of the Start gcode section. This is a very important step... If it is included and in the right place it is possible your prime / start code can be modified to do more purge...... I think the skirt and or brim runs at the extrusion multiplier rate set for the part, so it is only pushing 40-50% so that is why it takes so long for it to catch up.
I rarely use auto bed leveling (ABL) for LW-PLA, it only does the initial z-height. When printing the foaming LW-PLA multiple parts are a problem... so I only print one part at a time and the 24point ABL is way overkill for one part. Manually leveling the bed is easy and will also make you ABL work better for bigger prints.
@@soarkraft Your comment about 'prime' speed versus 'print' speed makes sense after all, that's how we set the speed in Cura. I had eliminated the 'prime' line from my prints in favor of increasing the skirt or brim parameters. I set my 'start G code' to do a 'gantry level', then, 'home' and then a '25point ABL' before every print which I really don't like. It takes about 6min to complete. I'd rather do that check once and just start printing right away (no gantry check, homing nor ABL). After all, why repeat these checks if the prints are good and the printer hasn't been shut down. One more question. If we uncomment '#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28' in Marlin and put 'M420 S1' in my Cura 'start G Code', will the printer software 'remember' the mesh before printing. What I want to do is 'calibrate' my printer just once BEFORE printing then execute my prints without performing the gantry leveling, homing and ABL every time except for doing a 'prime line'. Your opinion is very much valued. Thank you.
So Im pretty sure that is how it works... The G29 command does the ABL routine and then the 'M420 S1' will recall this data on the next print.... save the data and you want need to do it again, my Sidewinder X2 will save the data to the eeprom if you tell it to in the menu ... you can also adjust the initial z = 0 height. This stores it so it is saved even after you turn off the printer and turn it back on.... otherwise you will need to rerun G29 / or ABL from the printer menu every time you turn on your machine. This may be different on the particular machine you are using.... but it is probably similar.
@@soarkraft So this is what I've set-up since we started this discussion. From what I've seen if we activate RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28' in Marlin it will automatically do that when starting the print even if the printer performed a 'homing' first. You can put the M420 S1 as a precaution in the 'start G-Code'. That's what I did. PLUS. I added a 320mm 'prime line' running horizontally across the front of the bed so I can keep an eye on it then either add a wide skirt or brim before actually printing the part. So my process is. Turn on the printer. Bring hotend temp to 150c and bed to 60c. I use the LCD to level my gantry, then, 'home' XYZ. After that I do my 25 point ABL and save to EEPROM once prompted. I then start the print. I removed 'homing' from the 'start' g-code so the printer heats up, runs the 'prime' line, then does the skirt/brim and by that time most of the non-useable filament has been extruded. I printed several boxes 40mm x 40mm x 10mm using this method and my 3rd test print is just beautiful. The walls measure 0.39mm - 0.41mm which is quite acceptable in my view. Also, now I can start another print WITHOUT doing a gantry level, Home XYZ nor create another new mesh. I simply hit 'print', she goes up to temperature, draws a prime line and begins the print with a skirt or brim. Thanks very much for your valued input and opinions as they really helped me in solving this surprising discovery when using LW-PLA for the first time.
Buen vídeo y explicación, gracias!!!
Hello I use simplify3D and LwPLA makes lot of confusion to me. I get surface that isn't smooth and some stringing. Can you share your profile ti me?
In vase mode the outline Is perfect but the intenral structure of the party ( wings, fuselage) is removed...
Thank you
In the thin wall section in the advanced tab you can sellect "perimeters only" or "allow single wall" for external and internal walls... and I always select "allow single wall" for internal walls. For exterior walls I use "perimeter only" for the foaming LW-PLA, and the "allow single wall" for most other materials. You may also need to adjust the single extrusion section in the same tab - I do 20% min and 200% max... a be sure you have the Extrusion width (first tab) set to the right Extrusion width for you model... soarKraft models are all .40 and I have it set to manual.
This "perimeters only" verses "allow single wall" is most evident in the Soarkraft wings and fins because it transitions from one wall thickness to two walls for the front D-box structure.
You can make these changes and slice the part and see what it is doing on each layer in the preview... including travels and such. the "perimeters only" with the polymaker LW-PLA might be worth toying if you are not happy with using the same PLA settings.
@@soarkraft thank you so much!
Printing multiple parts can be faster when minimum layer time is a factor. It doesn’t have to slow down to let the last layer cool if it’s working on another part.
Yep, thats it. More noticeable in Prusa - default set to 15sec , Cura default is 10sec ...
great, thanks 👍
Did you try Cura 'Surface Mode' or did you try to reduce the wall line width?? Or spiralise mode? All will work.
Also, all your sliced models look like they have 2 walls. They must be very heavy??
So "surface mode" in Cura is specific to CAD designs that are just surface representations of the shape and then the slicer gives it thickness... this was a unique feature of Cura... now Prusa does it too..There is also a "Vase Mode" method some designs use. I don't use these, my models are "Normal Mode"... where my model is exactly what I want printed.
In my designs I wanted to use single and multi walled sections in the same part. I was able to design strong lightweight parts that can print and fly from regular PLA and handle landing in rough areas... Two wall Leading edge, single wall for the rest of the wing + internal structure.
Hi. No; Cura Surface mode takes a solid model and only 'sees' and prints the surface. It can be a good way to reduce travel moves which is important when using light weight PLA's (or even normal PLA).
Spiralise mode only prints the surface as well however, it does so without a layer change point as it just spirals its way up the print. Very useful once again for single wall light weight PLA.
The method I use is called Negative Internal Modeling where you cut thin slices in a solid model to produce internal structure. Very powerful once you get your head around it.
For both 1 and 2 walls in the same print you can use the Cura modifiers but that's too complicated to explain here ;-)@@soarkraft
Yep, different ways of doing it. I have tried these methods and several other too. I am not using any of those methods. My CAD model represents exactly what I want to print, 100% fill, no slicer tricks. My parts will print the same way in multiple slicers.
I make files for other to print, most of my users are new to 3D printing and have a hard enough time interfacing with Cura... adding modifiers would be a disaster.
However I am also an aerospace engineer and I know what I want in a model.... and I have the CAD resources and knowledge to pull it off. I am actually trying to get away from Cura because it is not as good, has terrible nozzle path artifacts, and the user interface is outdated. @@mytubehkjt
Good day sir
i would be grateful to receive any feedback from you asking for help
i purchased the a30m by geeetech
i have tried to print the test file on micro sd card by the manufacturer
the print failed to complete the print
the dogs head was incomplete and the overall quality was poor
i tightened the z axis gantry and tried a second print hoping that the z axis was loose and wobbling thus affecting the print quality
the second print was even worse as the head of the dog fell off and i had to stop printing immediately
i also installed a 3d touch sensor
the sensor works as the pin extracts and retracts accordingly however when i click auto bed leveling i get an error message "test failed"
when i click on auto bed leveling the bed moves on the x axis then jerks and stops before reporting "test failed"
i however managed to manually level the bed before the first and second print
the bed moved as expected when i click on the manual level button
the bed would first move on the z axis to clear any obstruction then on the x axis towards the centre .
it is my first printer and difficult to find people with the a30m printer online
i have pictures of the first print and wish someone would help
sincerely
ejike
Thanks so much - new subscriber:-)
also a open hinge slot version would be great for easy repair, in my experience the thin scratched hinges are not durable and hard to repair.
You can add whatever hinges you want to your model, there is no right way to do it. Just cut your own slot. These hinges have been tested to 120+ mph with no in-air issues, most damage happens with hard landings. Have you tried Silicone Hinges (I actually use Quick Grip - dry time of about 10 min) - they are really easy and work great - video on my channel - one long thin flexible "membrane" hinge.
Well I have Simplify3D and prefer it as well, also an engineer. Do you have the settings you prefer for that? I didn't see anything on the web site and noticed in the video your settings are not default. I tend to use Prusa printers and filament for the reason that I don't like to spend all my time trial and error on the printer and parts printing. I want the "rapid", in rapid prototyping when it comes to planes. 🙂
I have not included Simplify3D stuff because it was confusing too many and the program was out of date. I recently updated my modeling technique and with the new Simplify3D 5.0 it has become a topic again... and I need to do a follow up video for this.
Good info thanks. How about filling in about S3D? Can your models be sliced well now that you modified them to work with the hobby slicers?
I’ve tried some models from other sites which don’t work out well with S3D but okay with my friend’s Cura!
I will be doing a video soon about the new SImplify3D 5.0 release and talk about it specifically. The adjustments for Cura did add weight initially that I did not want to add, but I was able to fix this later with better geometry. I learned to live with Cura... got it to work really well, but it is still a pain to use.
Just upgraded to 5.0.1 and it still doesn’t like aeroplanes!
I did manage a workaround but it is not ideal.
I had to have 3 processes, 1 for the bottom layers if they have infill, 1 for the single skin and another for filled top layers.
The single skin had to have manual width of 0.2 or less and increase the flow to about 90% to compensate. Then the result was quite good - except if there was any ‘infill’ in the single skin section where it over extruded because of the narrow width setting.
Trying PrusaSlicer; so far with mixed results, but easier GUI than Cura!
Is the arachne in Prusa slicer always on or do you have turn it on some how? Great video. I also have Simplify2D slicer, new version.
Prusa has a setting to turn it on and off. I always use it... (Arachne or Classic)
In Cura it is always on, but not implemented as well. (unless they changed it recently)
Thanks I found it. I use Prusa and interested in the Orca as I have a Sol08 on the way.
Your prusa config for lw-pla is for foaming or pre foamed pla?
Use the regular PLA config for pre-foamed.... lw-pla for foaming
Haven't had much luck with Arachne so far. Love the idea, but too many issues at this point, for printing planes anyway.
For the plane designs that embraced the quirks of Cura, Arachne is probably a problem. I know PlanePrint claims to only work with Cura???
@@soarkraft I believe you are correct. Like you said in the video, you almost have to design for a specific slicer to get good results. I haven't tried one of yours yet, but it's on the list. Just have several plane projects already in the works I really need to finish first... lol.
I would like to buy a 3d printed airplane unassembled. Does anyone have a source? {Ican't justify a printer in my apartment}
Prusa is nice to use. Simplify 3d is quite powerful and can do all the special things I need. More power is because it has more tools and settings and thus more complicated. But sometimes that is necessary.
Cura is free and most planes purchased provide settings but otherwise, it is not as nice to use
Prusa is free too and I can provide a configuration file that can be imported for the printing and filament settings, and you just have to set it up with your specific printer.... for printing SoarKraft models... you are on your oun for printing someone elses files.
I thought cura and prusa slicer were based on Slic3r so they both got this feature since it was implemented in Slic3r …
Nope. Both are open source, but very different base programs. Cura and Slic3r are very different... Slic3r / Prusa / Bambu / Orca are similar. Cura users were developing the Arachne Perimeter Engine... it was available as a plug in... but completely open for everyone to see and use. The Slic3r community just copied it, and then implemented it better. Cura still has not gotten it right... even the new 5.5 is not right.... and with all of the other issues I have had with Cura over the years I am glad to have better options to use.
The reason printing multiple parts is faster is because by default, there's a minimum time setting to allow the top layer to cool.
Really??? I will have to look into that, thanks
Yes.. that's it, so you are referring to the "Cooling Thresholds" section "slow down if layer print time is below XXX sec" in the Filament Setting/Cooling section and it is set to 15 sec as default... wow I did not know it had so much of an effect... and what is the right number for this for these thin wall structures??? I will have to do some experimenting.
Arachne was the reason why all my wings were falling or giving very bad results in prusha slicer.
Well, before Prusa 2.5, were they incorporated Arachne, it could not print wings and fins.... we it could but had major issues, it had a real hard time with thin walls... it did great with fuselage parts (two wall thicknesses or more). Cura was the go to until Fall 2022 ..... been very busy since then... new slicers and printers almost weekly
Hello; like to know,what I have to buy to print airplane parts and wings,what software to use,also,you can design your own wings and cambers,,,,,so what I have to do to get started,,,,,,,thanks
Watch my other videos... I have some of that covered already.. more coming
CURA 5.2.1 is out now, did you try it with your wings? I'd love to get a profile for the new CURA :-) PLA-LW !!
Not yet on the CURA 5.2.1! It is changing so fast I can't keep up.
My PLA-LW setting is on my website on the material and setting page, its a spread sheet looking thing about half way down. It has issues as my video indicates, but Cura is sending out updates weekly, if not daily, so it might mostly work but need a tweak.
@@soarkraft I like the ability to use Vase mode, can you also print in vase mode on these designs? :-)
No. Printing in vase mode requires a very particular CAD model. My models are designed to print like a regular part, where the model represents exactly what should be printed. The “vase mode” only prints the outer skin and “tricking” the slicer into printing internal structure… it’s cool but has its limitations
will the prusa slicer work with ender v2 neo?
Yes.... well it is in their list of supported printers, download is free.... try it and let us know.
Which Prusaslicer to download - Full package or the other download?
I clicked on the "Download or WIndows" and it had all of this capabilities and could identify boat loads of different printers... not sure what the "All drivers and Apps" is. I know they have a g-code viewer that opens a separate window, which works for me, but maybe there is more? I don't remember this other option, maybe it is new?
I am a Solidworks user and I have designed a wing with cross ribs >45 degs. But I cannot use the Spiral Vase mode. When vase mode selected, PrusaSlicer completely ignores internal ribs.
I posted this issue on SW forum but no response yet.
Has anyone experience this issue?
So designing for "vase mode" slicing is a different way of modeling... it us too complicated to explain here.
@@soarkraft I figured it out. Basically you have to design a solid shape not as surface or shell and creat blind cuts to fool vase engine.
How would someone print your designs on a Bambu Labs 3D printer?
I have no idea, I have not seen the Bambu Labs slicer... but I would guess that it is possible.
For the Foaming LW-PLA it will likely not be any faster than an Ender 3.... you can only print one part at a time, and there are speed / layer cooling requirements for the material to print right...... but I have not tried it. I love the idea of the X1 and the P1P... it is so awesome that someone is making, or trying to, make a better printer.
@@soarkraft Are your slicer key parameters for slicing various filament materials documented in something other than a Prusaslicer .ini file where someone could manually enter them into another slicer, like BambuStudio?
@@davidslack9516 yes, for cura.. on the website on the Material Settings page about half way down there is a chart with Cura settings.
I would like to print the senior telimaster I have plans to make it out of balsa but would love one in 3d print 👍😋👍
There are several designs out there for slow high wing trainers that can be 3D printed.
are you using a .4mm nozzle or .6mm please ?
.4mm nozzle, but with this new slicing feature will make this less of a requirement.
@@soarkraft perfect thanks. Just came across you yesterday via a Friend and we have purchased the files and have printed the Fus already today. Great vids thanks!!
SL_ST WINGS in progress GrabCAD
Hi! I also really like Simplify for the way it builds thin walls.
Neat continuous loops without unnecessary breaks.
I watched your video here and decided to make a model of a loop for a wing.
I will be glad if you look and voice your opinion.
Where i could find colorfabb lw pla parameters to prusaslicer?
on the materials page on my website I have a download for the Prusa Slice and the LW-PLA settings will work with ColorFabb LW-PLA
soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings
Have you tried the new Simplify 3D 5.0 slicer? Thoughts?
Yes, and Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer.... and I updated my CAD to work better with all of them... time for a new video.
Interesting video. I've noticed combing issues on Cura 5.2.1 when I'm slicing Eclipson files. Some do better with combing off and some better with it set to all. I don't understand specifically what's going on but I check each part. I need to get comfortable with Prusa Slicer. Which SoarKraft would you recommend for a noob to fixed wings?
I don't think combing mode works in Cura 5.0 - 5.2.1 with the Arachne stuff, none of the setting seam to really change the travel path. In Cura 4.11-4.13 it worked well. I am hoping they fix it. Prusa Slicer 2.5 has a setting "Avoid Crossing perimeters" that works similar to a working combing mode.... well for SoarKraft models. I have not been keeping up with all of the other companies and there slicer issues with the new releases.
The Soarkraft models are performance oriented, but not that hard to fly. I recommend the MH32 airfoil, which is available when selecting the wing. Higher lift, more predictable at slower speeds and works well with the power pod.
I do have more models coming soon.
@@soarkraft Cool, I can wait to try one when my skill level gets a bit better. I know we are on the cusp of a Cura release so that may address some of these issues. Do you know when the high temp foaming PLA will be released?
the colorfabb LW-PLA-HT is already available, but you have to order it from Europe.
Direct from Colorfabb - $40 per spool + $40 shipping... and only 750g spool. expensive.
3dJake - $45 per spool + $20 shipping. Better
No one in the US is carrying the HT stuff yet. Only a couple places carry the Colorfabb - Matterhakers
@@soarkraft Thank you again! I hadn't seen the HT with Jake. eSun prints well but I wanna try white and red so I may go for the regular LW-PLA, what's the advantage of the HT of the regular LW-PLA?
What about ideamaker?
Have not used it, I will check it out. There are lots of slicers out there... I just can't believe how many use Cura and how difficult it is to use beyond basic stuff...
@@soarkraft You are totally right. Was never a cura fan. Ideamaker also has this dynamic extrusion width setting. They make no marketing about it. Its just there =)
Great content, maybe move your microphone cause the sound of you swallowing is horrendous
Thanks for the suggestion.... I have stopped using this mic and changed how I edit... so enjoy these oddities from two years ago
OK we are 42% through your still ranting
Why do you talk so slow Great video but geez
I live in Colorado at 6000 feet and the air is thin.... I have to talk slow or I will pass out
LOL, you can speed up videos hitting the gear icon. I set it to 1.25/1.5 and you can power through the video.
OK waste of time
I like curacause I'm indocroniated and I dont know any other program. Dontforget that thickening the walls adds weight t your planes!
Thick in the right places, thin in the right places, thats good design. Same wall throughout is just lazy.