UTV dual battery and switch plate install and setup. Honda Pioneer 1000
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- Honda pioneer 1000- 5 dual battery installation setup. Fuse box. Stinger relay. DIY.
Aux battery voltmeter for switch plate - amzn.to/34f9fFf
Wire used - amzn.to/3heIGnq
True brand isolator kit - amzn.to/3hgiust
Stinger relay - amzn.to/3ge6I0n
12-way fuse box - amzn.to/2QanEdK
Wiring Kit - amzn.to/3kXyGkG
Battery cables - amzn.to/34fG0lD
Switches used (did not use plate) - amzn.to/2EhfEVy
Switch plate - www.pbrproducts.com/
Battery - www.ebay.com/itm/381879320325...
Custom Switch plate - www.pbrproducts.com/
Add a fuse - www.walmart.com/ip/Bussmann-S...
Zip ties - walmart
Leave anything I missed in the comments. Sub and like if this helped you. I spent a lot of time researching the best prices and what is needed. I saved you a lot of time.
Stinger relay with True brand battery isolator Switch plate for Honda Pioneer 1000. Added a fuse box also more on the fuse box in other videos of mine.
Pretty clean install and awesome wiring walkthrough. Looking to do this on my rig too.
Good info. Thanks for sharing. My 1000-5 arrives next week, so I'm looking for ideas on accessory wiring. I'm glad I found your video.
Great job and great video. One tip would be to run all the future wires together in the same bundle as the current wires being used that run from the cab to the fuse box. There could be a wire in place for each fuse, even if you don't have all the switches in the cab yet. I think you may have done some of that, I just didn't hear it mentioned in the video.
Nice video. Cleanly done. Do you run your negative from the isolator and the stinger relay to the the negative battery terminal?
I’ve watched a lot of these videos and I like a lot of other people are not electronically inclined ask a lot of the same questions.every one of the videos do it differently than the next guy,and there seems to always be a couple of steps they leave out.
Looking forward to your video.
Are you using 15amp fuses for all of your accessories
How did you do the winch? Did you go to the same side of the stinger as the fuse block?
Very clean install, is the true am is the best isolator? I noticed theres the NVX XSBI80, and quad boss isolator? Which one you recommend? Thank you in advance
Indeed the best with ore than 10 years in the industry of battery isolators
Nice install looks real clean.
Did you cut the ridges on the air filter box to mount the fuse block?
no. just used velro. remember to sub and share as I'm not paid for these vids
Nice work!
Question: I have a duel voltage meter to monitor both batteries. How do I wire the voltage meter with key-on power?
All other accessories are key-on and run through my fuse box.
Thank you!
tap into the remote wire running from the main fuse box to the relay and the second volt meter run strait to the second fuse box. That is what I did and it seems to work. Remember to sub, like and share as I'm not getting paid for this..
thanks for sharing! How did you mount and secure the fusebox? I believe I have the exact same air cover you do and there are two 1/2" ridges sticking up where your box is mounted - so there is no flat surface to mount to. There are factory relays under that area of the cover and I don't want to screw anything in there. Did you put some kind of leveling objects between the ridges and velcro the box to that?
Strong velco and did mount on top of the ridges. It holds just fine. Also a few small pieces of velco on two sides of the box.
You can cut a piece of hard foam board that is the same height and width as that area of the airbox (between the two outside fins) and just a little thicker than the height of the fins in that area. Then cut a slot in the middle of the foam where the middle fin can slide in. Then, Velcro the foam board to the airbox and Velcro the fuse box to the foam board. Or you can do like I did and just Velcro the fuse box right on top of the aux battery. :)
Thanks
Can I just leave the accessory wire on my stock bus bar and what’s the negative wire on the switch for ?
Not sure about your bus bar. The black wire is the ground.
Where did you tie your voltage meter into the ignition switch. Agree with the remote crank disconnect guess we may never know where it goes.
voltage meter for factory battery is tied into the wire coming off the factory fuse box auxiliary fuse jumper and the volt meter for the second battery is coming off the second fuse box that was added.
@@milsurvival2558 For the two battery leads that go to the back of the dual voltmeter, just connect to each side of the TruAM isolator. Easy peasy.
For that Jumper Fuse for the Access fuse tapping in from the stinger, how did you get the lid back on the OEM fuse box. My top will not go on with that Jumper fuse, and I really do not want to splice in to the wire.
Mine will not go on all the way either. Let me know if you come up with a solution
@@milsurvival2558 hondasxs forum had some of them push one end down and thrn ziptie the other endshut. Imm going to try that.
Hi
How is that 2nd battery holding up ..thinking of getting that less expensive battery but wanna k know if its worth it thanks
No problems
Mighty Max ML26-12 is super reliable, inexpensive and fits perfectly.
Does the blue light on the isolater stay on all the time when the machine is off?
Mine stays on until the battery voltage is below like 12.9.
Blue light indicates that the battery voltage in the primary battery is at least 13.3V (I believe) so the two batteries are connected in parallel. If the voltage in the primary battery falls below 13.3V, the blue light goes off, indicating that the batteries are no longer connected as one. The whole point of the isolator is to keep the aux battery load from draining power from the primary battery. The blue light is showing you that it is doing it's job. :)
I noticed your factory main battery is on the auxiliary side of isolator switch did you know that or did you do it for a reason ?
I did not know that. I found the directions and they don't show that well if at all. The directions are a small one page cheaply printed piece of paper. Thank you very much for pointing that out I will change it tomorrow.
@John Doe The isolator I have is clearly marked "MAIN" next to one lug and "AUX" next to the other. If it made no difference, it would venture a guess that it wouldn't be marked at all. The isolator not only disconnects the two batteries to ensure one (aux) isn't draining the other (main), but if you have charging issues, the isolator makes sure one (main) gets fully charged before it starts charging the other (aux).
How do you make everything turn on and off with the key?
By wiring it to the accessory fuse
Where do you get all the wiring for this?
Walmart is where I got mine. There maybe better options that I'm not aware of. Also got a wire connectors kit and crimper. I'm far from good at crimping. I would suggest get a good crimper!
Is there a light indicator that shows you that it’s working?
A blue light on the isolator indicates that the battery voltage in the primary battery is at least 13.3V (I believe) so the two batteries are connected in parallel. If the voltage in the primary battery falls below 13.3V, the blue light goes off, indicating that the batteries are no longer connected as one. The whole point of the isolator is to keep the aux battery load from draining power from the primary battery. The blue light is showing you that it is doing it's job. :)
how did you anchor your fuse block down ?
Velcro
I don’t understand this. My stinger was showing 24v on the side there powering the fuse box. Now it’s not engaging at all.
Where are the two red wires on top of the stinger going? Also, the two small wires coming off the stinger, the red to the acc fuse and the black is going where? Thanks
I have the same question as James, could you please address the question. Thank you.
Look up UTV dual battery diagram and there are some simple pics to follow.
I'm not sure what the stinger dies in this video though.
That is a solenoid/heavy duty relay, That is what all of your accessories should be connected too. The solenoid is then activated by your accessory circuit on the vehicle so that all accessories are disabled if the key is turned off. This will both save your battery from being drained and also is a great safety function as well, imagine what can happen if a child were to climb in and start messing with a 4000lb winch! Especially dangerous if you have a snow plow hooked up.
One of the two larger red wires on the stinger goes to the positive terminal on the auxiliary battery. The other one goes to the positive terminal on your fuse box. When the relay "connects" inside, it connects the battery to the fuse box, providing 12V power to the fuse box from the aux battery.
The two smaller wires on the relay are the "switch" that connects/disconnects the two larger battery cables together inside the Stinger. One goes to ground while the other goes to a switched 12v circuit (a circuit that gets powered when you turn the ignition key on -- referred to as "key on power"). When you turn the key on, it "flips the switch" (like a light switch in your house) that connects the two larger cables, thus sending power from the battery to the fuse box. When you turn the key off, it flips the switch back, disconnecting the battery and the fuse box. That's how a relay works.
No, it doesn't matter which posts you connect the two thin wires to (as long as you connect them to the SMALL posts) nor which side you connect the larger cables to (as long as you connect them to the LARGE posts).
why did you use a deep cycle battery
price. Can you alborate on your battery knowledge? It would help everyone.
What does the stinger relay do??
I’m not an electrician but my friend who is says that you don’t need it.curious that he doesn’t answer your question when he seems to answer the others.from what I’ve seen it looks like it’s only purpose is to power the fuse box
@@ripemm5737 It is not absolutely necessary, but it is the only way to cut power to all of your accessories when the key is off. Having all of your accessories wired directly to the battery will definitely cause a drain even if they are turned off. It also is an excellent safety feature, imagine what could go wrong if a small child were to mess with a 4000lb winch while no one was watching! Especially dangerous with a snow plow hooked up.
The Stinger is a relay (kinda like a light switch in your house) that energizes the fuse box when the ignition key is on. When the key is off, the fuse box is not energized. With a house light switch, you flip it on and off on the wall with your hand. With the Stinger relay, the act of turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (whether the vehicle engine is started and running or not), that turns the relay on and energizes the fuse box and all accessories attached.
If you eliminate the Stinger, that means the fuse box would be connected DIRECTLY to the battery, which means it would be powered ALL the time. If the fuse box is powered ALL the time, every accessory will have power either going to it or going to the switch (on the dash or where ever you install them) that turns them on/off. That's BAD because, if you accidentally leave a dash switch or device powered on, it will continue to run and eventually drain the battery.
With the Stinger in the loop, as long as the ignition is off, everything on the fuse box is also off, even if you accidentally leave a dash or accessory switch in the ON position.
Basically, think about the heater blower motor in your car: If that was wired directly to the battery instead of with a relay, turning the car ignition off would not stop the heater blower motor from running. The heater motor would continue to run, even after you shut the car off.
Hope that helps.
So all my my lights, winch, horn, turn signals hot wire should go to the one accessory place. Correct?
They should go the the additional fuse box I believe. I'm not an expert and researched all I did online. I don't have what you mentioned
Yes, that's one of the main reasons you install a 2nd battery and isolator: If using all your accessories somehow drains the battery (e.g., listening to music while parked, lights on when motor not running), having the 2nd battery and isolator ensures that ONLY the 2nd battery will get drained and that your primary battery, which should be supplying power for ONLY the starter and the DCT transmission, has adequate power to get you home.
Most accessories can be wired to the new fuse box that you install, but something that draws as much power as a winch should not be wired to the fuse box (most are not rated for that high of amperage - mine is 100A for the whole fuse box and 30A max per circuit). Always wire accessories with high amperage draw directly to the positive terminal of the AUXILIARY battery. You can wire the switched lead for those high amperage accessories to the fuse box, as they are only acting as the "switch", pulling very little amperage.
@@jdmansf Not sure what you mean by "your switch plate has fuses". Are you referring to each dash switch being connected to someone that has an in-line fuse along the wire? If so, it's far cleaner to install a fuse box and then eliminate all those in-line fuses, running the wires directly to the fuse box. When a fuse blows, you only have to look in one place versus hunting down every single in-line fuse. Many fuse boxes have LEDs that light up when a fuse is blown, making it even easier to identify and replace a blown fuse.
You install a fuse box to make it super easy to add accessories that will be powered by your 2nd battery. As far as connecting the fuse box directly to the 2nd battery without a relay that is connected to key-on power: I would not want power to be running to the fuse box 24x7, nor would I want power to be running to every one of the dash switches 24x7.
What # battery did you get and the name of the battery
For your Pioneer, if you're wanting a decent 2nd (auxiliary) battery that doesn't break the bank, get a Mighty Max ML26-12. It is super reliable, inexpensive and fits perfectly.
Thanks