The main battery feed is going to a toggle switch then to energize the stinger. I ending up switching the feed to the 2nd battery so that little bit of juice wouldn't be pulling off the main battery
I'm putting in the same system as you .. I've watch a lot of videos and don't see relays on other rigs..are they hiding them or does this true /stinger isolator setup with a fuse box replace the individual relays? Thanks I've used Spods on my jeep ..one battery setup.
Hello, question for you. I installed this exact set up on my pioneer, it seemed to work great for a while but now I am having dead batteries! The blue led light that is in the isolator is staying on for quite some time after the machine is off and the key removed. Does yours stay on? Thanks for your time
It should stay on for a few once the battery drops it should turn off without the machine running. If you turn a light bar or something with a big amp draw on, it should turn off within seconds.
I'm running an isolator and a stinger. The isolator protects me from being able to pull the primary down past a safe point saving starting ability and the clutches driving. The stinger is basically my on off switch for everything that's secondary electronically on the machine. You could just rely on individual switches. With my key and zombie mode off nothing can pull power even a trickle from the 2nd battery.
Stinger is my on/off point to my fuse block. Without the stinger the fuse block would be hot all the time. The isolator serves 2 functions. 1st it allows the primary battery to reach a certain voltage before charging the 2nd battery & if the 2nd battery gets pulled down low because of accessories like the radio your primary isn't pulled down too so you can still start the utv.
Mighty max 12v 26ah ML26-12 . Still going strong & fits good in the 2nd spot.. I would debate trying to put a factory size battery in the 2nd so it would be easy to swap if ever needed I didn't realize spots are different sizes. For the money the mighty max is great
Mine Is an 18 there is an extra ground that from the factory near the 1st battery that can be used . Most people that dont have this from the factory I believe tap into their frame
Why is your primary battery voltage dropping on the meter when you're bumping your winch? Seems like the whole concept of using the isolator is to prevent that from happening. Shouldn't only the secondary voltage drop? Thanks.
So the batteries are connected while charging if primary battery voltage is high enough which is why you see them drop together cause it pulled from both batteries voltage. If the voltage of the primary battery drops below a certain voltage the isolator will disconnect sending juice to the 2nd battery. This allow enough juice in the 1st battery to operate the machine/clutches & all charging goes to just the 1st battery until the voltage gets high enough to charge the 2nd battery again.
So far the only time I've noticed it disconnect is using the winch higher loads or longer pulls. Typically after a few minutes after using the winch the primary battery has got enough charge it's charging the 2nd battery again & the primary battery the whole time has enough voltage to engage the clutches
Great job, thanks for helping the community that trying to accomplish the same with there machines!!!
You bet
Great explanation.
If a watch multiple, hopefully I can nail it
Hope you did!
What I don't understand is @ 01:42 . Where does the hot wire coming off the main battery going to? And where does it feedback into? Thanks.
The main battery feed is going to a toggle switch then to energize the stinger. I ending up switching the feed to the 2nd battery so that little bit of juice wouldn't be pulling off the main battery
I'm putting in the same system as you .. I've watch a lot of videos and don't see relays on other rigs..are they hiding them or does this true /stinger isolator setup with a fuse box replace the individual relays? Thanks
I've used Spods on my jeep ..one battery setup.
Anything that's higher amps I I have relay on. They are tucked to the left had side on the way to whatever item needs like the 52inch light bar
Hello, question for you. I installed this exact set up on my pioneer, it seemed to work great for a while but now I am having dead batteries! The blue led light that is in the isolator is staying on for quite some time after the machine is off and the key removed. Does yours stay on? Thanks for your time
It should stay on for a few once the battery drops it should turn off without the machine running. If you turn a light bar or something with a big amp draw on, it should turn off within seconds.
Where did you hook up the ground you just said "there" my 2016 dont have a common ground?
16 didn't have a pre-wired ground. You could probably tie into the same spot as the factory battery ground or make a good chassis ground
How did you tie in your dual voltage meter, I see how it’s connected to the isolator, did you tie it into your fuse box or in the ignition switch?
I tied it off the key accessory
I'm confused why you're running two battery isolators?
I'm running an isolator and a stinger. The isolator protects me from being able to pull the primary down past a safe point saving starting ability and the clutches driving. The stinger is basically my on off switch for everything that's secondary electronically on the machine. You could just rely on individual switches. With my key and zombie mode off nothing can pull power even a trickle from the 2nd battery.
What is the black wire on the driver side with the blue tape on it for
Thanks in advance for any help
Factory ground the 16s didn't have the extra ground from the factory
Why do you need the stinger Relay & the True isulator? Isn't it redundant?
Stinger is my on/off point to my fuse block. Without the stinger the fuse block would be hot all the time. The isolator serves 2 functions. 1st it allows the primary battery to reach a certain voltage before charging the 2nd battery & if the 2nd battery gets pulled down low because of accessories like the radio your primary isn't pulled down too so you can still start the utv.
So i did a very similar setup with the dual voltage meter but my meter stays on all the time and we tied it into a key hot ... idk what i did wrong
It must be a constant hot connected or a feed from the 2nd battery 1
Hey buddy, do you have a wire diagram drawn up for this setup? This is what I'm trying to do.
Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/dPJuLZjY8fk/v-deo.html
This video shows some of the wire setup that's hard to show in the final install video
I think I have it now. I'm in the process of wiring the switch panel and not sure how to go about it with this set up. Do you have anything for that?
@@tedclegg114 the video I posted is how my switch panel was wired up most switches should be the same
Free wiring diagram provided by True smart battery isolator www.dfna.info/12v-dual-battery-isolator-wiring-diagram/
What battery did you used. Make and number of it. Thank you
Mighty max 12v 26ah ML26-12 . Still going strong & fits good in the 2nd spot.. I would debate trying to put a factory size battery in the 2nd so it would be easy to swap if ever needed I didn't realize spots are different sizes. For the money the mighty max is great
Can you show a link to what switch panel you used?
Thanks!
www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Marine-Truck-6-Gang-Waterproof-Circuit-Blue-LED-Rocker-Switch-Panel-Breaker/232534940025?pageci=9d4be6b1-9654-4fde-bcf6-4fa9b9d7e4a2
I bought this pulled the switches & the actual panel I purchased from someone on ebay last time I check they typically can customize it to your liking
Need little help.. Leave my unit couple days it killing battery on dual setup
Make sure dual isolator is dis connecting when off. Is it killing the primary, secondary or both?
How did you ground your second battery?
Mine Is an 18 there is an extra ground that from the factory near the 1st battery that can be used . Most people that dont have this from the factory I believe tap into their frame
Thanks. I have a 16.
Why is your primary battery voltage dropping on the meter when you're bumping your winch? Seems like the whole concept of using the isolator is to prevent that from happening. Shouldn't only the secondary voltage drop? Thanks.
So the batteries are connected while charging if primary battery voltage is high enough which is why you see them drop together cause it pulled from both batteries voltage. If the voltage of the primary battery drops below a certain voltage the isolator will disconnect sending juice to the 2nd battery. This allow enough juice in the 1st battery to operate the machine/clutches & all charging goes to just the 1st battery until the voltage gets high enough to charge the 2nd battery again.
So far the only time I've noticed it disconnect is using the winch higher loads or longer pulls. Typically after a few minutes after using the winch the primary battery has got enough charge it's charging the 2nd battery again & the primary battery the whole time has enough voltage to engage the clutches
@@buckssenditinfochannel5263 Great answer, Thanks Buck!!
Here is the dual battery kit source www.dfna.info/product/true-smart-battery-isolator/
That's not the one I used, but have seen others use that one.
Cup holders. Lol. Thought they were dog dishes. Would have been a lot cooler if they were.
Use them how you want lol