670cc V Twin Dragster gets New Turbo, Methanol Carburetor & Higher RPM Stall!
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- Опубліковано 8 лис 2022
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Our Predator 670cc V twin dragster gets a mini overhaul, with a new carburetor especially tuned for methanol fuel, a turbo build especially for a draw through carburetor application, and adjustable weights for tunable stall speed! We’re gonna head to the dyno next to tune this turbo 670 up to hit the track!
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This series is one of the most engaging on UA-cam; I'm sure I'm not the only person who waits for each new episode and sits right through it as soon as it pops up...
you should check out vice grip garage and junkyard digs or turnin rust if you're interested in videos like these
Thos are good chanals to and good point paul hall
Go to Mega Squirt, complete control over the fuel injection AND ignition (battery powered) to be variable and integrated throughout all rpms. Simple 3d graphics on a laptop. I'm glad you figured out about oil changes because of contamination, I've seen a lot of newbies trash Triumph and BSA engines because they thought once a month is ok . On the mikuni carb, did y'all leave the fuel in the carb when done racing? You supposed to drain out the whole fuel system ( carb ,pump and lines) and flush with gasoline the nitro ethanol mix is extremely corrosive.. Do you check your fuel /nitro content with a hydrometer ,barometric pressure , air temp and humidity can cause variations in the precinctages making inconsistent runs.
You should rethink the ethanol / nitro fuel you are using. The advantage of ethanol is the power doesn't drop as the engine temp goes up but doesn't have a real advantage until being use under very high compression , you should get things sorted out using Klotz or VP race fuel
It's all bc of Ike Ike started it all and Ike is the one with the knowledge.
Ike needs more credit.
@@uncrustable9923 no bc I know Chris personally and I hate when moons give him crap!
Chris don't deserve negative comments.
Chris is a great guy not looking to make money.
Hrs a good guy.
I wrote to a meet he hosted on his place on his dime and Chris did not deserve the bs he got from it.
Micro squirt ecu with universal harness or a holley sniper efi would work. The advantage of the microsquirt would be your ability to adjust ignition timing for boost and low cost. The advantage of the sniper efi would be how user friendly it is and how effective it's closed loop self tuning is.
I would try and rig a 2 barrel sniper just cause the micro squirt is more complicated even though it has more potential.
Fuel tech ft550
Also to add they will just have to make a trigger wheel and set up the right inputs on the microsquirt and it will would work.
They need to do some researching on how briggs and stratton sets up there commercial efi engines. They have coil on plug which is powered and timed by the computer. They use a hall effect sensor on the flywheel and a delphi computer which is already tunable with an intake that retains 2 motorcycle style fuel injectors. Just put a reluctor wheel on the 670 and use all those parts from the briggs with bigger injectors. It will all fit under the plastic cover
Microsquirt. Used megasquirt. Super friendly.
fueltech is the way to go from what ive seen. one of the best plug and play ive watched others on here use for many projects, even a turbo charged burn barrel
Booatedboiz setup their turbo shopping kart on fueltech. And fueltech is so easy to use.
I didn’t see this, but I just made the same comment about the Boostedboiz using fuel tech lol
@@PunchinPistons same 😂
I made the same comment on their last video, fueltech FTW
@@4226oak yep watched his latest on that shopping kart.
i use a microsquirt to put fuel injection on my 660 raptor engine. no matter what system you pick youre going to need a custom crank sensor
@Boosted Lifestyle Nice to see you here and offering some advice...kudos Kyle
These parts should go a long way in getting us to a 6.99 at over 100mph!
You installed like 2 new turbos this is your third one but good luck on the next video of your 670cc dragster video to get to 100mph
Boosted boiz used a fuel tec ecu on the turbo shopping go cart you should look into that they made it look easy
ua-cam.com/video/lY0nCgV6zzc/v-deo.html
I left a link to a recent video of them testing at 13lbs of boost
ua-cam.com/channels/_e1W-VZ1ygjbKQGjXB1f4g.htmlvideos reach out to this guy!!!
Lighter weights will increase your wot rpm and will cause your shift out to be much different as well. You really need to swap the springs as well if you want it to be done properly.
I agree with this one also go up in spring 👏.
@@erichsteinhagen4173 I keep offering my services to help via consultation due to my snowmobile and boost experience
@@dipstiksubaru3246 I also think more ring space is a good 💡.
Drain the oil and you can put it in a crock pot and heat the oil up and it will boil the alcohol out of the oil. On my drag bike I run an oil pan heater and preheat my oil to 140°F before I start it. Plus the EFI will help with minimizing oil contamination.
Curious to see how this works, I know on snowmobiles your primary clutch weight dictates total rpm, light weight = higher rpm, heavier weight = less rpm and spring in the primary dictates engagement and finishing rpm. Best of luck guys look forward to watching!
There is no kit for a 670cc engine EFI kit, but you should be able to piece one together with a speeduino NO2C, some LS coils, and a crank sensor with a missing tooth wheel (36 tooth). Look at the speeduino documentation, its super easy to understand!
EFI with a speeduino and cheap parts would be no more than around $250, if you have a speeduino you can do all sorts of "motorsport" features like 2 step and even speed based boost control.
I've seen someone rig one up with a crank sensor running to an ignition control module from a tbi chevy, those run the fuel injectors based off of a magnetoresistive sensor in the small cap distributors, your way would be better though lol. Edit: he had the reluctor wheel from inside the distributor on a little homemade hub bolted where the pull start assembly would be, timing was controlled by loosening a couple bolts and rotating that reluctor wheel, pretty sick setup
Not a direct bolt on, but something you might wanna look into is Speeduino for your engine management system. Cheap easy and can be run on basically anything.
I suggested they check out Robot Catina cause they build one.
I'm putting a Teensy 4.1 Speeduino in my 97 Civic turbo build.
Hey Guys, I’m no racing expert but I do know from working on snowmobiles for 30 years that the CENTER DISTANCE between crank and secondary shaft is important as well as the correct width belt to keep the unit from “creeping” or dragging of the belt and primary. And it will improve performance. I don’t remember you’all talking about center distance during the build. Just FYI.
Both wife and I totally enjoy all 3 of you and your videos. You guys are a class act. Thanks for keeping it a family friendly show.
I think you might be thinking a mega squirt or similar would be a lot more trouble than it really is. All you really need is a power wire, map signal, rpm signal, wideband, injector and ignition harness. After than it's all data logging stuff. You also can run dual sensors and use the starter ring gear as a tone ring and a single post as a tdc indicator of you're worried about adding a reluctor wheel
efi fuel reg, efi fuel pump, efi hose, fuel rail, charging system, tps signal (unless going alpha-n), air temp sensor, coolant sensor. benefits of going EFI in this case are not worth it IMO. making an engine that was only ever designed for carb to efi is a big pita and cost/time adds up quick. easist would be a holley sniper single/two barrel but they don't support meth.
Nope micro squirt all the way
I would recommend a Microsquirt Efi kit, they run about $380 for the ecu and universal harness but do some research they are very easy to wire and tune and you only need a crank signal a coil and a fuel injector and you can make anything run, i wired one into my f-150 with a 4.9L and it wasnt very hard being only 19 years old at the time😂😂
FYI Coils almost never go bad. They are such a simple device. Yes, they do fail on occasion, but not very often. In the 40 years I have been working on equipment, I had 1 coil fail on me.
They have actually had alot over the years I have been watching them. Several times on the cross kart. Every time they replace it with a new one the kart runs perfect again. So maybe your working with a different kind with a different lifespan
Yeah I was gonna say I had to replace hella coils already on a bunch of yard equipment and go karts lol
Coil life depends a lot on environment and storage conditions. They last a lot longer in dry environments/when they are kept inside, but they can go bad quickly if they are damp for any reason
They fail with heat. Because for some reason they use sub-par solder that melts at a low temp
I agree with you. Over the last 5 years that's changed though. I've had 2/5 bad right out of the box and a 3rd one that lasted about 2 weeks.
For the Fuel Injection: the BoostedBoiz got a lyfan 125cc engine on a shopping cart which they tuned with a fuel tech ecu, it rips HARD. im sure the boiz will be glad to help you out.
hey john, hey ike. i just wanted to say when i was a kid you guy were what got me into minibikes and go karts and inspired/showed me how to make my first. while i unsubscribed from then to now, i have recently gotten a new minibike and I'm getting back into it. along with that I'm remembering your videos, and I'm absolutely Overfilled with joy to see you guys still making amazing videos. ill be subscribing again and i wont leave this time. Thankyou for always making amazing content you guys and being around for basically all my years thru school/as a kid.
Hey guys, check into fuel injection from a 950cc Yamaha V Star. Parts should be readily available and decent prices.
The fact that it's a harbor freight engine is part of its charm though
@@ProdigyAutomotive I agree......but I believe the fuel injection from the V Star 950 could be adapted to work with the engine
@@thebeardedguyjefflawless5887 Ohh I misread I thought you were saying to v star swap it, lol
@@ProdigyAutomotive I love the Harbor Freight engine.........
Looks like the next big purchase for C&C is a Dyno for go carts.
Dammit, I live 30 miles from Grayford. Wished I had of looked at the calendar earlier I would have showed up. I met the both of you at GoPowerSports a few years ago in Keller and I know most of the guys over there. I was big in to carts a few years ago for my son but we have kinda moved on and sold them all now. They grow up fast. A few years ago your channel gave us a lot of inspiration. Glad to see your still doing crazy things and I love the writing on the frame next to the steering wheel: "Don't be stupid :)" I wish I had taken that advise in my early years and I might not hurt so bad now.
Hey guys! love your stuff. I look forward to every Mon and Wed night to watch what you all are up to. I love what you guys are doing with the drag rail. I think the torque converter weights set is going to be a great improvement in you launch and 60-foot time. I noticed when watching your video today that your exhaust pipe opening looks like you could be scooping air with the way it is angled. at 80- 90 mph that could really scoop some air. you might want to check it. just a suggestion. Stays safe! and GO TURBO!
You can also tune when the PJ adds fuel (not just how much fuel it adds) by shortening it - the shorter the PJ sticks into the venturi, the higher in the RPM range it will start to add fuel. Just make sure you stay roughly in the center 1/3rd of the diameter for a nice strong signal :).
You guys should look into a speeduino c2c ecu. It's an open source ECU that has two channels for injectors and two channels for coils. They're very reliable are very small and lightweight. You can also use the injectors and throttle bodies from a Honda V-Star.
was just about to say vstar myself i think they are so close in displacement it should work great
Open source? I’ve been in communities with open source products. And they always become impossible to purchase in times of war, because the vast majority of their parts come from China or Ukraine
Great idea. I forgot about those. Could use Honda CT110 injectors with that then. I wonder if you can use two injectors at the same time?
@@dylanzrim3635 hey man I think you're kind of misunderstanding what open source is. It's a pretty deep subject but to summarize it's a group project that ends up having a particular object made. There are a lot of examples, 3D printings is the riprap project. Another example where a group of people got together is speeduino which is a open source ECU that runs on an adreno. I can download the PCB design and get it printed from whoever an American company, Canadian, Chinese it doesn't really matter, I can make it. I would argue in fact it would be easier to get this ECU in a time of war because it doesn't matter where I get the parts. Especially if we're comparing ECUs like aem, mega squirt, and Holly.
@@matthewridgeway9250 probably c2c has two injector channels so they could fire them independently or together. I believe they would only need to add a 24-1 trigger wheel. It would be really easy for them the Fab with the CNC plasma cutter.
I used one of them electric fuel pumps to pump oil for a mini bike, I had it ran from the bottome of the engine to the pump then to a radiator then back to the engine. It worked pretty well. I had it running off a craftsman 18v drill battery
The progression of this build over the years has been an epic journey. I really hope that some of your other builds receive the same level of long term attention and dedication. I'm particularly the most excited to see the next video on the Yard Dart. My top couple requests for that thing all have to do with Ergos, followed probably by bigger front tires and regearing it to do about 60.
On the ergos front, lay the driver back/down more, and pick the feet/pedal box up and place it above the front suspension for better fitment and not more steering wheel between the knees. Lastly, bring the shifter between the legs and just up and to the right of the steering wheel. Oh, also, make it so you can left foot brake, that way you can bang clutchless rev-matched downshifts while braking at the same time.
Would it be possible to do another drag rail but with a diesel engine instead? Once y’all are done with this build
I can't wait to see the dyno results after this, the progress from the last dyno is crazy
havent watched you guys for awhile. you initially inspired me to build my first gokart (i have since sold it) its a lot of fun to build but where i live there isn’t really anywhere to ride except school soccer fields.
Glad to see y’all got a wideband O2 sensor in there! That’ll really tell the tale of the tape!! Glad y’all are also considering an EFI system too!!
I remember watching the initial build of this drag rail and it was wicked cool but not the fastest. Thats what makes me soo glad to see you guys really making it as what it deserves to be.
Your Primary spring/s are also what determines the stall speed of your engine! That's why they make so many different pressures to them. Your weights will mainly effect the shifting timing along with the secondary spring and helix angles. I would have left the weights alone at first and went up the next spring weight of the Primary and nothing else. I tuned these clutches and I know what your trying to accomplish here. Just letting you know that the last thing you want to do is change the weights until you've changed the springs. If you're still having issues or not what you want? Then you change your weights. Jumping off a cliff in order to get home faster isn't very wise! Just trying to help you guys out here on this topic that seems there's not very much good information about on how to properly tune a CVT system.
Correct
I've been trying to tell them this since the start but they must not read comments also did you notice their belt is too tight
@@rosscop65 I run mine that tight. The tighter the more overdrive you get. I even measure belt width with a caliper to get a belt as wide as I can.
love this series. love to see a 600cc cross cart new build with the skills you have acquired since last cross cart build
The dragster has me hooked to the channel I drink a few beers and watch the series every morning when I get off work! Keep them coming don’t stop I’m a junkie needing my dragster fix 🥴😩🥺🤣❤️🩹
This hotrod is pretty sweet i cant wait till everything gets dialed and you get your first proper run blasting boost all the way down the strip good job guys
Y'all should go up another tooth or two on your front chain sprocket. It'll give you more on the top end, and the higher stall speed would keep you pulling from a dig.
Order the EFI setup for a new Kawasaki EFI lawn mower
Agreed 👍 the primary weights are pretty good. The secondary clutch needs some tuning. Or two teeth on front sprocket
hey lads love the videos, im a small engine mechanic and know that briggs have fully fuel injected engines available and also have dry sumps they're incredibly responsive
Based on how the clutches are shifting with no load on them (revving it with the wheels in the air) I suspect that you aren't even close with the clutch weight adjustment. It should be shooting up into top gear (closing the primary) pretty much immediately if you don't have a load on it. With this setup you will likely have a decent hole shot, but it's going to stay in low gear way too long and probably not reach top gear at all.
I suspect that you will have to remove the weight from the inner hole and move it to the outer holes on the clutch arms, but you may be able to just add weight to the outer holes. It's a good idea to put a black marker on the primary clutch before you do each run and that will tell you how far it is shifting. Ideally you want to be hitting top gear at the exact time you cross the finish line. Ideally you would also remove the primary spring, close the clutch all the way and set the belt in place. Then mark where the top of the belt sits so that you know where top gear actually is... otherwise you are kinda just guessing.
There's a TON of tuning between gearing and clutching... and every time you change one thing, it means that you have to change the other to get the most out of your setup. I suggest learning about your secondary clutch and how to tune it. It is usually the quickest way to make an adjustment at the track and is much better for fine tuning than the primary. It can get pretty complicated with multi angle helixes (cams/ screws /ramps)and whatnot... but if you know the basics, it will help.
Also... if you start engaging at a high rpm (high stall) you are going to start breaking a LOT of stuff on that car.
I build turbocharged VW engines on the regular I really dig what you guys are doing I want to do a similar setup but I'm going to try mechanical fuel injection with an old hilborn throttle body you guys could do a similar setup for really cheap that's old parts that are on eBay
Around 4 years ago, you guys built a Predator 670 chopper. Can you just imagine how that bike would run with a setup like you've put on the rail!!! It would make a very interesting throwback project.
I brought up efi for this project of yours is for the tunability and the control you can have with efi. Especially after seeing how well it worked out for the boosted boiz go cart. And since you guys are drag racing this rig data can be very helpful.
You can Go with a Speeduino EFI ecu, they are inexpensive and will work with pretty much anything. But it will require a bit of work to setup your trigger stuff. The community behind speeduino is extremely supportive though.
I would try a aem wide band I’ve always seen people have issues with the innovative’s
When Charles dropped that o2 sensor. i was like NOOOOOOOOOOO! Cant do that. they can be very sensitive. Great episode guys. Keep up the good work
Shit happens.
So do pops and bangs break them
@@colagg2465 Considering the suck squeeze bang blow steps it goes through. id say it"ll be fine
I know right lol Maybe it still works. those filament in the o2 can be sensitive to impacts
@@robertdonohue3710 yeah rev limiter bashing can kill them and impact of any sort can damage them
Charles you could do the seat adjuster for the power jet for sure. You need a flexible shaft from a dremel and a knob on the end that hooks to dremel. Good idea Charles
I'm glad that power jet is helping out, I've seen as many as 5 power jets to a single Harley Davidson drag carb, also a velocity stack will speed up the air through the venturi drawing more fuel
I feel like any stand-alone brand would work if you guys read into it a little, you only have a few sensors you need to make it all work on a little digital dash, an EFI 450cc dirtbike/atv carb or motorcycle carburetor or one similar to like the one the boostedboiz have is ideal check them out!
Pretty sure they're running a fuel-tech unit on the shopping go-kart.... Recently added in the most recent updates on it I believe
They used a fueltech system .
That's a 2000 dollar ecu, massively over kill, they are sponsored by them so get them very cheap/free
@@garyhowe88 yes but if you want the best of the best 👌. Fuel tech is the way to go , how much your reckon they got in the drag rail anways? Prolly more than you think and proper and easy to use fuel management makes a huge difference instead of blowing up an engine.
@@4226oak fueltech is not best of the best just a gimmick🤣🤣 not one circuit racing team uses it 🤣 are they still using a PW fueling strategy rather than VE fuel calculations? They just have a very good marketing/sponsorship team. Also terrible for a road car due to lack of features compared to even much cheaper Ecu's.
Kyle from boosted boys out a fuel tech on a single cylinder Honda motor I think it’s a shopping cart turbo powered go cart. Get ahold of him and find out some stuff.
Kylie explains fuel tech on a small engine
Thats funny Charles, Ike and John i see about ever color fuel line i sent you on the drag rail except pink. I loved and thanks for using it i appreciate that
UK here ! Loving you blokes !! HA more please !!! Cheers !
boostedboiz just did a fuel tech on the shopping gocart maybe you can use something like that.
I second this. Would be the way to go if they can figure it out.
We used to mix 2 stroke castor oil with the methanol, when it evaporates out it leaves the oil to coat all the parts so it’s not so detrimental. Wouldn’t have to mix very much 80:1 , it just helps
True DIY I would source individual parts together with a MicroSquirt. If you guys are looking for a more Plug'n-Play scheme I would look in to Ecotron or UAVenginesystem. Whichever way you take, keep up the good work!
You could run micro squirt fairly easily I’ve set a few up on 420cc predators but there is definitely a steep learning curve, also nitro doesn’t play nice with methanol and nitro it will poison the sensor over time, egt gauges will get you way further, and going to blow through will work a lot better you just need a boost referenced fuel system
I came here to comment this as well. Microsquirt may be the way to go, you could control timing that way as well and even set the system up as a wasted spark system if you wanted. Get rid of the flywheel magnets and just go with a simple crank trigger
Microsquirt and Speeduino have both been tested on a Predator over at RobotCantina - I posted about this last video too. Both are cheap options with lots of 3rd party support.
@@bashr52 Wouldn't you really just need to replace the coils with a hall effect sensor? Granted you'd have wasted spark, and you'd have to run batch fire but I imagine we are talking about some sort of TBI anyway
@@limprooster3253 exactly, but you could install one sensor at TDC and then use system to fire the plugs at a specific time. So you could run two coils through an ignition box and tune your timing on the fly if you needed.
@@bashr52 so what I think you need is the old grey Ford "push start" TFI module. They fired the coil on the down part of the square wave, which is backwards from normal. So the eec turned the spout off when it wanted to fire the plug, rather than on.
How that applies to here: the magnets are already positioned on the flywheel at something like 20 degrees btdc. That's probably as late as you'd ever want it with this setup. So using a TFI would let your ECU use the stock flywheel magnets to get your computer controlled timing
I wonder if instead of an air filter you don't need an intake trumpet? Something 10 or 12 in Long? The air filter is redundant when you change your oil every hour or so.
Air filters like that are hardly a restriction plus they keep rocks and dust from destroying your turbo and the cylinder walls. Changing your oil often doesn’t mean you don’t need a filter
What the hell does that have to do with anything 😂 stop building engines please
Air filters keep crap out above the piston and stop the rings from turning into sandpaper.
@@wags9777 most race cars don't run filters they only have a screen
@@lucas02389 they change their oil after an evening of testing or racing. The filter masks a greater issue. Velocity is important too.
Awesome intro! "This is getting expensive" perfect way to put it!
so cool to see all that you have done to the dragster!! Ike with telling Charles you missed second had me laughing. The weld is a "C" for Charles
Love what you guys are doing!
If you're interested in seeing what other UA-camrs are doing for EFI, there's a channel called "Robot Cantina" which has a Predator 420 swapped Honda Insight with a pieced together EFI system (and a supercharger.) Worth a look.
I was going to make the same recommendation to check out robot cantina for efi.
Loving this series, keep up the good work guys!
And also use a little bit of two-stroke oil like castor oil or beaoil they mix very well with it and help keep parts smooth and not sticking
22:11 My RC engines run off a hot brew of methanol and nitromethane. They're designed for the stuff and it's still hell on them if they're not stored properly. But they make great power and run fairly cool, reliable!
Can't wait to see it running at its potential
This is getting exciting now! Lots of "tuneability".
Dyno time will be more productive than track time since you made so many changes at once.
Track time will be ... FAST!
P.S. Ike I already mentioned this to John, we don't mention $$$ because when Drag Racing money is no object.
I've really enjoyed following the dragster and its progress. I'm ready to see the "Moon Tune" on this project.
Another suggestion with the addition to the wastegate is to have a blow off valve fitted. When you are pedal to the metal down the quarter mile and you are under a lot of boost… you cross the line and you snap that throttle shut…. Where is that 15/20lbs of boost going to go? Fitting one of these will also help with turbo spooling and making the turbo more efficient.
This is an awesome build and I can’t believe how nitro is that hydroscopic!
Keep up the good work.
All the way from the uk :)
Nice work there guys! You absolutely have to see Boosted Bois Turbo shopping cart! FuelTech FT450
Again, the dragster is my favorite! Please keep up the hard work fellas! I wanna see 575 in the 8th mile!
According to alot of guys that run methanol getting the motor up to temp before you wap the throttle and not contantany wapping the throttle helps alot with methanol getting into oil
@24:09 It cracked me up when Ike was yelling while wearing the ear protectors
I would recommend something that would push more air like a velocity stack at the track make sure you air it right dead in the middle so when you at 60mph the air is almost like a ram intake will help the turbo spool faster
You could attach an old speedo cable to the power jet screw and run it back to a knob you can twist on the dash so you can tweak the mixture when your at high speeds at the track...
we used to reach back and adjust the carb in the box stock class back when i was younger
Man I really like this build can't wait to see it on the dyno and you guy's get the tune in it, I dig Charles mullet👍🏼👍🏼
A vacuum surge container on the vacuum line for the boost gauge, of whatever creative design y'all can come up with, should help keep that needle from oscillating so much. Worth a shot.
This keeps getting better! Great work guys!
Your wideband placement is good. It's always better to be too close to the turbo than too close to the end of the exhaust.
Really happy to see you listened to some of my suggestions try adding a Harley check valve for their power jet inline. Makes the fuel response instant instead of having to go up the line. A Dremel with a cut wheel can make a nice groove on a lean needle like a gas one add a pin with a small hole drilled into the slide and the fuel will now go up the back side of the needle like a lectron use it in the compound bike works great. You can also change the length of the power jet tube to change where it adds fuel. In your position shorter would be later needing more flow and longer would be earlier needing less flow. I might shorten it if I was you but not much. Ike kinda got it but not quite the power jet works off a low pressure yes but it's not supposed to be vacuum signal it's a low pressure created by the tube being in the way of the airflow. The air gets to a certain speed around the tube and creates a venturi effect. When adding them normally in multiples we use that bellmouth to adjust when it comes in as well as length relative to the slide opening. Check valves have different open pressures also hence why I recommend the Harley ones. For efi the best is fuel tech but a speeduino could do this with easy for $400 with everything but your intake design won't make power efi gonna have to get into actual intake theory there. Mainly keep them separate and have a big plenum. Runner length matters alot. Idk your specs but if I had to take a guess that intake like to peak pretty low for this thing. So big gains could be made there. Personally a good carb setup makes more power having gone carbs apon carbs and then efi then carb then efi then I settled with a blow through carb setup it gave me the best of both worlds. Drives like a stock bike with big cams and when you get on it over 1/2 throttle boost comes in quickly. It also just makes way more as the pull through carb leaves you with a situation where as you tryna the boost up it gets smaller and smaller. The carb that makes power is also the carb it has a hard time idling on. The 155cc bike pull through single turbo struggled to make 45whp with a 44mm carb went blow through with a 28mm and it made 50whp with 5psi less and a broader powerband. You really need to know carbs to do a blow through set up but all ram air sport bike carbs are already set up for it.
for EFI, check out the speeduino. Something like the NO2C would be more than plenty for this. (Sequential fueling and ignition for a 2 cylinder).
But a normal speeduino would also work just fine.
@CarsandCameras . When testing stall speeds and take off in the shop you guys should sweep the floor, then sweep again, and again. blow it off with a high powered air hose.... then get some track bite. This will allow you to simulate the conditions that a track should have in the first 30 feet or so.... dust on the floor, as you guys noticed, allows for a lesser friction, which can allow the engine to gain rpm's easier. with track bite it allows you to see how the engine may bog down in the initial launch due to track conditions. you might find further carb or other tuning needed after this. Just a thought.
24:00... LOVE Ike yelling with the ear pro on. hahaha
hopefully the ornaments will ship soon!! i actually ordered a sticker pack with mine as well!!
Fuel Tech FT450 will work for what you guys are doing. Boosted Bois are using it on a single cylinder go kart with a turbo successfully.
For this size engine, you can build a pretty simple dummy load using either a water pump or a couple of big truck brake rotors. Would allow you to do a lot of testing under load right at the shop for very little money/time to set up.
For Fuel Injection System: Suzuki SV650 and SV1000 run fuel injection from 2003 onward. They are V Twin motors and really good bikes 🤙 as far as I know you can get after market computers to tune them too.
As your running turbo probably need the system from the 1000 🤷. Awesome work and video as usual!
I was thinking the same thing, but with a harley. The Vance and Hines tuner I have on my 07 dyna (fuel injected) has boost options as well as spark and fuel maps.
Just remember when it comes to clutch tuning what you do to the primary affects the secondary not to mention there are a veritable size springs for the primary and secondary so that they work together instead of against each other or not at all
The primary spring controls most of your stall speed, not the weights. The weight profile will affect the stall speed to an extent, but if you just put lighter weights in you're going to slip the belt.
Yinz guys are getting the rail dialed in. Keep up the great work and I will keep on watching
Use a spark plug anti fouler to give you a better afr reading, it’ll allow the mixture to stir instead of rushing past the sensor.
If you haul the rail on an open trailer. With carb open it can pull fuel while going to and from track.
Holley Sniper efi makes a 1 barrel carb like setup that will pretty much bolt right on 👌 then get 1-3 liter surge tank with Bosch 044 fuel pump built in. Done
I have a maker squirt and I can provide a throttle body all we have to do is come up with a fuel rail which should be fairly simple and a crank trigger which should be fairly simple I also have the map sensor and everything all ready to go we could probably have it together in a couple days
I know the Boosted Boyz just put a Fuel Tech Ft450 on their turbo charged shopping cart. It seemed to work really well even with it being a single cylinder 200cc lifan motor. You can monitor almost anything you want with the ft450 but its not cheap. You could also look into a mega squirt setup. It's a bit cheaper but less user-friendly compared to the ft450.
11:54 Hot damn, you guys where one bump away from going fast and furious on us by blowing out the floorpanel!
Great review, write me up👆✉️✉️
Love the content so far fellas. Question when will the new Busco Beach Minimeyhem video be out?
For fuel injection your best bet would be to use a BMW ITB for throttle body and fuel injector mount. A Speeduino ecu is probably the cheapest solution, but does require some assembly. The community is very helpful with trouble shooting and I believe that there have been a few people that have injected similar engines. If you're interested I can help with the ecu assembly and initial setup.
Those converters also have a single center spring...or atleast my polaris does and ya can change the stall with that as well...the nice old school brown spring works great...makes my polaris 400 2 stroke pop n ride wheelies now Idk the rpms but it was a highly suggest spring upgrade by many ppl and nm lol after watching towards the end i see y'all got springs
Spark plug washers will help you get the spark kernel out of the wet fuel. You can also use them to direct the spark so it’s getting full benefit. If the spark gap is pointed away from the pistons you may not get a full explosion. Have you thought about e85? By the way, both methanol ande85 you can get more time. Just make sure that you don’t let it run out of either fuel or bad juju happens.
Build a container that you can put under vacuumed to boil off the moisture in the oil then you can filter the oil and reuse.
It is sounding like a dream now, can't wait to see how far you can take it
Man I’m so glad to see you guys taking a project this seriously. “It’ll be fine” carsandcameras jankiness can only go so far.
And a side note, R.A.C.I.N.G. stands for “Rowdy And Cashless Idiots, Not Geniuses”
I ran a 670cc Briggs V twin on a microsquirt. Whatever you do run from Ecotrons. The Microsquirt took a ton of work to get to run, and never really sounded perfect and getting odd-fire to run right with no way of getting a cam sync was a huge pain. Think the power train lead after me ended up swapping it for a Haltech and had better luck, but they also machined a cam pickup into the rear cover. Had to waterjet a custom 60tooth wheel to run off the front crank, cherry hall sensor for crank pickup, ran LS coils, jeep 3.6 injectors since that’s about the smallest injector you can get easily, gm map sensor and intake temp sensor, innovate Wideband which gave us constant issues and should of been swapped with a Spartan or something better.
I believe you could also keep the stock ignition and feed the microsquirt the tach signal off the shut off wire but you won’t have any ignition control. And you might have to run the injectors in batch fire but at the rpm your turning it really won’t matter. Injector timing isn’t that critical at high rpm.
I lIke how john is saying we all the time, when he is sitting up at the desk and Charles and Isaac are doing all the labor.