Alpine iLX-507 Pre-amp voltage test - is it really 4 Volt??? PLUS SQ discussion & comparison
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2022
- In this video @carstereochick does some testing with an oscilloscope on the Alpine iLX-507 to find out if it really has a 4 volt pre-amp. Does it??? And at at what point it start clipping? Or does it stay clean at max volume? What’s a safe level to set your sub level on the head unit? Watch now to find out!
PLUS how does the Alpine iLX-507 compare to earlier models and current models? Watch as John and Annie discuss their findings after spending time listening to the Alpine iLX-507 along with the Alpine CDE-172BT and Kenwood DMX1057XR.
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This is awesome, I was actually googling how to check the voltage of the pre-outs with an oscilloscope. And came across your video, which is the exact model of Alpine I just purchased. I’m going to run the same test to see if I get the same results.
Great video, keep em coming!!!
Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video awesome channel.
Thanks for the video.
Makes us understand the HU in deep.
Thank you for the support!
Love all of your videos, plz don't stop making them!
Thank you so much for your support and encouragement!!! I'm trying to find more time in the schedule to put them together. I actually have a lot of footage so new content is coming soon :)
Loved this!
I’ve had an ilx-507 for a couple of weeks. Novice and couldn’t get the eq to sound right. Had the same take as you that it was thin, no bass. I put in your eq setup and love it. Thank you so much for this video.
I have some separate questions about how to handle the center speaker in the dash of my 2017 f250. I have a truck that came with an 8 inch factory display, 7 speaker setup and no amp. I’m not really sure how the factory wiring is configured for the center dash speaker. I used an idatalink mft1 with harness. Hooked up the 4 alpine amplified outputs into the harness. Idatalink documentation doesn’t mention the center channel. My surprise was that the center still functions. It is some form of front left. Wondering if there is a crossover that is splitting the left front to feed the 6x9 driver door, tweeter in the a pillar, and the center speaker. Thinking about a JL Audio xd600/6. Running a separate channel to the center so that I have control over the hp filter cutoff and the gain to that speaker. Thanks again and appreciate Andy advice.
That's awesome Marty! I'm so glad to hear that our EQ recommendations were helpful :) Regarding the center channel - I would have expected that there is just a basic capacitor style crossover attached to the back of the speaker and that it's just tied into one or both of the front speaker lines. I just looked up a diagram on ProDemand for the non amplified F250 and it looks like the ACM or Audio Control Module actually has it's own separate center channel speaker output. I don't know how it's being retained through the Maestro, but it sounds like if you balance it front/left, it's part of that front left output. You could definitely replace that speaker and separately amplify it so you have control over it. Generally speaking, we don't usually do that at our shop (I'm a fan of the KISS rule - good quality components in the right locations, clean signal/power, quality over quantity, etc.), but it IS something something to consider if you want a little bit more of a upper/mid & tweeter in the dash.
I’m actually about to put one of these in my genesis. Interested to see how it goes. I have 3 amps at the moment tho. One each for my mids, highs and my sub.
I’m so glad I found this video! What’s the highest the sub level can be at before clipping with the volume at 32? And also if I’m using the lpf on the HU then do I need to turn the lpf on my sub amp all the way up? Thanks
Thanks for making these videos, really helpfull. Question: during this testing did you keep the "Sound Check" at ON position on your phone? If yes then it might be the reason for gettiing lower voltage on the pre outs.
Based on the date I made this video I don't believe it was on. BUT I no longer use my phone only for testing because I've actually seen variations in output using the same exact test file on my phone vs on a USB drive even with sound check off. It's possible there is some other import setting I'm not aware of, or something that Apple does to files when you turn on lossless. I haven't figured it out so I just use a 1 kHz and 40 Hz FLAC file on a USB for testing now.
Almost all kenwood units are clean at max on all on preouts and amps outs lol, alpine always been stingey in the output stage of their stereos, probably not in the old 90s early 2000s range although I think maybe they were if I remember right 😂
Yes, but they've changed over the years! It used to be that you had to have it at max level (like on the iLX-W650 and iLX-407) in order to get 4 volt. Now it's like you can go to max sub level as long as you don't go past volume 30 or if you plan to go all the way up, don't put the sub level past 3. They keep me on my toes.
So how did it compare to the kenwood in this video?
Will you be doing a review on the sony mobile es
receivers. Im curious on if they are on par with this or kenwood sound quality wise.
Eventually, yes. I will be putting an XAV-9000ES in my Jeep and we have the XAV-9500ES on display.
How do you connect the sub rca’s to a mono amp? Is there a setting on the HU to change the sub out to mono? I only connect one rca from the HU to the mono amp.
Most mono amps have a left and right input and most head units sub out have a left and right RCA so you'd normally use a traditional RCA cable to go from the head unit to your amp. Some aftermarket head units have a mono connection (Sony for example) and in that case, you can just use an RCA Y adapter.
Do you happen to know when the alpine ilx w650 clips at the speaker level output?
I'm pretty certain it's the same exact readings as the iLX-407 which was clean with everything flat up until volume 20.
The voltage overshoot/square waving might be due to the lack of impedance/load being presented to the phono outputs of the head unit by the fluke?
We actually have since tested the i509-WRA-JL (which basically has the same sub brain/chassis as the iLX-507 but with a bigger screen bundled with everything you need to install in a 2018+ Jeep Wrangler) using the Audio Control DM-RTA and duplicated the results. I was curious if we'd see anything different, so we had the Fluke and DM-RTA going at the same time. That video is going up next weekend if you're curious! But basically what we found with both is if you want to have sub level at max on the head unit, don't go past volume 30. If you want to go to max volume on the head unit, don't put the sub level past 3.
@@carstereochick thanks for the reply (and further testing), sounds like a firmware update is definitely needed, unless alpine want people complaining about their subs being square waved to death!
Sure thing! I don't think this will be anything they change with a software update. This is one of the reasons I like testing. Manufacturers are constantly changing how they do things! We think it's like their way of giving you some built in overlap. Kenwood was doing the same thing last year. You basically have to keep the sub level at 0 on the Kenwood DDX9907XR or DMX7706s/706s if you want to go to max volume. However, it's totally different on their newer DMX709s. I should have that video up the following weekend ;)
there is now a 507ai - whats different about it compared to the 507a?
Not sure as that appears to be a European model. In US we still have just the iLX-507.
Your sound check on the music app is on, would that mean it’ll give out more voltage and/or clipping with sound check off?
Yeah, probably, but I don't think it would be a huge difference in this case. Here's the weird thing. It's almost like that feature wasn't working on my phone until l I did a recent software update. I was seeing 2.87 volts with 1 kHz on front/rear with the 507. During previous testing with the iLX-407 over a year ago, I got 3.27 volts. When I just recently re-tested the iLX-407 to try and figure out what was going on I only got .86 volts. That's when I KNEW something HAD to be going on with my phone because I had tested that radio previously and knew I should be seeing over 3 volts.
The other thing is when we tested the i509-WRA, which is the same chassis as the 507, I was actually seeing higher voltage on the scopemeter using the 40 Hz test tone for the sub test (4.64 volts) compared at to the Audio Control DM-RTA (peaked at like 4.14 volts). At that point I had no reason to doubt what I was seeing during the iLX-507 testing because I saw similar results using different testing equipment on the 509. Does that make sense?
Either way, I do have plans to retest, but it seems like for whatever reason the sound check setting didn't make any difference until after a recent update. It's all very odd!
Sure sounds like it. It seems like manufacturers are changing the way their systems operate quietly, making choosing one very difficult.
Case in question, I was between an ilx507 and Dmx958xr. Your reviews swayed me to the alpine, especially since I’ve been running their head units exclusively for the last 23 years.
But they’ve changed. Setting my gains was a hassle because I’m used to maxing out the volume and subwoofer level (used to be attenuation where 15 was no attenuation) and I came to the realization that 30 is basically the ceiling to where I need to set my gains, as if I lower the subwoofer adjustment lower than 15, I lose a lot of dynamics.
Oh, and don’t get me started on the silly remote antenna wire that outputs 12v whether you’re listening to radio or not. Or being able to turn off internal amplification on the units.
Alpine and my dealer explained that they changed it quietly, with ZERO mention anywhere.
That’s my issue. Tell us what you changed!
I’m done ranting.
Thank you so much for the content you provide us.
I just finished my install yesterday. I’m getting different results than you. Sub at 15, I can go up to 31 volume on 1khz and 40hz without clipping. Anything past that and my waves get distorted.
my mosconi dsp flashes the clipping light at anything over 31, even with the input gains on minimum.
At 31 I’m at 5+ volts btw.
Wonder if it’s the newest firmware.
I’m using a cheap scope and confirmed with a fluke mm.
Oh, and John’s eq curve really brings the music to life
@@Abesta83 oh that’s SO interesting!! Can I ask how you played the test track? Was it Apple? Android? USB?
I will definitely be retesting this now. And I don’t think I updated firmware on my display model yet so I’ll test it with the previous firmware.
Oh and I 💯 agree with your rant!!! This is why I do this, they’re always changing it up.
And so glad to hear John’s EQ curve worked nicely for you 😊
Is it safe to expect similar results for the 509 and 511?
Same brain. Screen size only different. Floating screens you can add Bluetooth volume.
Is the track level at 0db? Or? I love your videos and I have absolute faith you know what you're doing the question wasn't meant to be condescending just asking. Ps I want your fluke oscilloscope lol 😉
Great question and yes! 0 db. I found that baby on eBay used for $500. There are deals out there if you're patient. Sometimes people buy them because they need them for a certain job and then they move on to another job where they don't need it anymore.
So if I’m running a 4 channel and a sub amp I can test the amps for clipping at volume 26? The 172bt I have clips at 27 also.
The head unit's internal amp starts clipping at 26. If you're using the pre-amp, that should be clean all the way to max volume on the front and rear. Sub channel too if you leave your subwoofer level at no more than 3.
So if I keep all speaker levels at 0 what is the volume i can set gains at for the 4 ch as well as mono amp? 35?
Yes, the pre-amp is clean up to max volume for front and rear. Sub channel during testing appeared clean as long as you don't put the sub level past 3.
which amp and subwoofer would you recomend for a ILX -f509 in a tacoma?
What year Tacoma? Double cab?
@@carstereochick 2019 double cab without jbl amp basic stocked radio. I already replaced the speakers and tweeters. And I will have the radio change soon
I am a huge fan of the JL Audio Stealthbox. It's pricey, but well worth it!
Which has the better sound quality, the Alpine f511 vs Kenwood 1057xr?
This is essentially the same discussion we had in the video about the iLX-507 vs the Kenwood eXcelon because the 507 brain/chassis is the same among the 507, F509, F511 and i509 series. They both sound great, really. We did find with everything flat, we felt this Alpine was a bit thin, but that was easily corrected using the EQ curve shown in the video. One big thing Alpine has going for it is they do give you a true 4 volt pre-amp, front, rear and subwoofer. I have not seen that on the latest entry level Kenwood eXcelon model DMX709s. So now I'm testing more of them. I just tested the DMX958XR (results will be posted next weekend) and I will also be testing the DMX1057XR to see if it's 5 volts on front, rear and subwoofer. Results may sway my opinion. To the naked ear, I prefer that signature eXcelon sound, but the Alpine is REAL close and with a few minor tweaks it's right there. Alpine did a great job on this series. It's definitely an improvement in sound quality over previous models such as the X409-WRA-JL we had.
@@carstereochick I already saw a voltage test on the 1057xr. I'm leaning towards Kenwood because the screen looks more vivid and brighter than the Alpine, but I kinda don't like the knob. One thing I did notice is that it feels smoother sliding your finger across the Alpine screen, but the Kenwood kinda had a sticky feel to it. I can fit a double din, but I need a single din if I want to run my center channel dash speaker. I bought a 10.1 Atoto s8 premium which ended being trash. It is under warranty but they are giving me the runaround. This is why I'm looking at the Kenwood and Alpine now
@@carstereochick did you ever post the dmx958xr video? Currently in the market between it and the ilx507. Alpine user for the last two decades. But never a double din screen and I’m open to other brands this time around
@@drjd2real Just wanted chime in to say that I too bought the ATOTO S8 Premium 10" Android head unit about a year ago, and can attest to the fact that it absolutely is trash. I suppose it's fine as an "in-dash tablet", but as a mobile audio receiver, yeah, it's junk. I plan on buying the Alpine iLX-507 here shortly to replace that $600 mistake.
@@Chris_Currie Atoto sent me a replacement screen that doesn't work and the bracket is a different color. I did get the Kenwood 1057xr from a loser on ebay. It kept random rebooting so I sent it in for service. It does sound way better than Atoto. Alpine is the way to go because I saw some people that bought their Kenwood new and have the same issue I'm having. Someone at Kenwood told me it might be cheaper to keep it if I can deal with it restarting because they are aware of the issue, but I don't think they know how to fix. I'm still waiting on them to fix it. I might sell it and get the Alpine. Kenwood will tell that this is a rare issue but it is not. A lot of the older Kenwood models did the same thing.
New fluke?.. I’m jealous..😮
Nah, not new, bought it second hand 😉
Yeah i want the fluke 😂 🤤
What built in Amplifier?
Head unit has a built in amp rated at 18 watts RMS x 4.
👍👀👍
Thank you 🙏
So much talking...... why does my ilx507 only have .797 on output?