Ty for this tutorial. Easy to understand. I just bought me a used Valient 10 needle. I need to learn so much. I thank the Lord for these videos. Blessings 😊
I just love you, i started with a 10 needle. not smart i guss, felt like beeing blind lost in darkness. No clue on tension dont know anything about digitizing. this helps. thank you love
Absolutely LOVED your video, the way you explain things, and you give ALL the reasons behind why you should do this or that. I'm a beginner and I'm going to say the blue one needs the top tension higher and the top tension on the purple just a little bit lower. Since some of the needles are spot-on, this tells me that the bobbin tension is good. Can't wait to hear if I was right. I'm a new embroiderer and I'm trying to get the tension info wrapped around my 67-year-old brain so I can remember. Thank you for taking the time to show this. It has helped me immensely!
Yes that’s exactly right! I am so glad you found this video helpful. Tension is probably one of the hardest things in embroidery to get right after that it gets easier 😄
Omg I opened the tension plate for the first time since May and found a chunk of trimmed thread the width of my pinky finger! My poor machine! Thank you for your video! You saved me a major mental breakdown this morning.
Just got my Janome MB-4S and this is a great way to test because tensions have been off and haven’t even been able to use it yet. Going to try this test. Thank you!
This is a great video. I have a single needle and i found your pace and actual content to be spot on. Now I am tuning my Janome 550E based on what you have taught me. Again, your pace was ideal. I never fast forwarded or had to go back because I missed something. Your edits were great. I appreciate the time you took to make and edit this.
Thank you! This video was SOOOO helpful! I have a new-to-me Happy HCS2 1201 and I love it. I played around with the tensions when I first got it home (I don't know why, I was excited!) and completely ruined the tension settings. Your video helped me to get everything back to perfect! Thank you again!
I’m pretty sure there’s a built in tension file already loaded in the default files. It’s a bit different on each model, but it’s usually found when you press the first built in pattern button (I think it has a bird on it. Top-left.)
Sooo needed this video, i didnt even know that the different brands of bobbin thread would have a different effect on the tension, i struggled soo much before i learned how to fix the problem
Thanks for the video, I started having problems and had forgotten about the screw driver that came with my machine. I am not afraid of tension but you have made me feel a bit more confident.
Really great show and tell. I have been trying to learn more about Tension, so I have watched multiple UA-cam videos and although I have learned a little from each one, yours, by far, has been the best for me. Thanks
THANK YOU FOR THIS WONDERFUL VIDEO. I was so upset with my machine and was not sure how to fix my problems especially the bird nesting! I will try all of these steps (tomorrow... it is late now) I do pray it will work easily for me as I saw in the video. Wish me Luck!
Ty for this video! I use a Digital Towa Gauge on my Janome Mb4 Bobbin Case. It takes the guesswork out of Bobbin Tension. For regular Embroidery on my Mb4, I set the Bobbin to 18-20 grams (or 180 to 200 mN). And for Quilting in the Hoop, I set it to 10 grams (or 100mN). Then, when I do a test sew, the only thing I have to adjust is the Top Tension. I have noticed that each of my machines, whether they be my Multi Needle Mb4, or my Single Needle Brother SE600, or my Longarm,… they all have their own “sweet spot” for Bobbin Tension. For regular Embroidery on my Brother SE600, I set the Bobbin to 30-33 grams (or 300 to 330 mN). But, for Quilting in the Hoop, I set it to 23 grams (or 230mN). And when I am too lazy to change it, I just set it to 28 grams (or 280 mN) for everything. I have been wanting to get a Brother 6 needle, so I would be so curious to know how many grams your machine would measure with a Digital Towa. I think the Brothers Multi Needles like about 22 grams (or 220mN) for regular embroidery. But, I have always wondered what they like for Quilting in the Hoop, because on my Mb4, I need to loosen my Bobbin Tension quite a bit (to 10 grams), and raise my Top tension all the way up, in order for the meeting of Top and Bottom to occur in the middle of the Batting. So, if you ever decide to get a Digital Towa, please let me know the numbers you have found.
Thank you for this video, Im new to all this. My machine was used and I went under the assumption that everything had already been set. I started looking at all the patches ive made to this point and noticed I was waaay under tensioned on my bobbins and over tensioned on my thread. After a few test stitches, I got it dialed in just like @0:46 and doing a patch as I am typing this and I havent broken a thread on this patch. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
Thank you so so much for this!! I have just got a new embroidery machine and all of a sudden the thread is so loose in the front and I was about to send the machine back! I’m going to try your hints and tips this evening xxxx
Thanks SO much this literally help save my sanity (plus another video that showed how to clean behind the tension springs in the bobbin case). I've already shared in a couple FB groups.
Thank you so much for this video. I believe the purple needs to be loosened or turned to the left and the blue needs to be tightened or turned to the right. I hope that is right and you will let me know. Thank you!
Hi, I don't think you need a specific needle for metallic threads (or at least I don't use one) I use the same 75/11 sharp point needle that I use for everything else but I slacken off the top tension a bit. Some people also recommend running the machine at a slower speed for metallics :)
@@pinkbirdembroidery8281 I'm a beginner with a 4-needle machine and I was told to use a special needle that has a larger eye. The metalics are more prone to breaking because they get hot and break, but the larger eye helps as well as slowing down the speed to no higher than 600.
hi thank you for the video it is really helpful. I do have one question, the brother instruction booklet says to put the bobbin in clockwise - but all the videos on youtube say anticlockwise can you tell me what is the correct way ?
Hello! Thank you for your comment I usually use two layers of tear away for everything and always hoop the fabric never float it as I know some people do. This is a really good question and I will make a video on it 💕
As my multi needle is embroidering the threads in the other needles come out and then get stitched into design. I just paid $350. For a service. Can you help me? You are so knowledgeable
i love your tutorial help a lot so i was wondering if you could help me with my auto threader i have a brother 6 needle machine and i changed my needles and now it will not thread my needles auto
Do you have a video on setting tension for the Happy 12-needle? I finally have one on order and I'm getting nervous about setting the tension. I'm used to a Brother flatbed VE2300 and the tension is adjusted on it by merely tapping a button on the touchscreen.
Hello, love your video and I hope you can help me. I have an issue with my thread no reconnecting after a jump stitch cut. I have adjusted the upper thread tension until I am positive that's not the reason though I now have to keep it way too loose hoping the stitch reconnects but it usually doesn't. Would you have any advice?
came to this video and im very familiar with all this info however even after cleaning under the tension knobs the tension doesnt change! not on all needles (pr 1000) some adjust fine. i know the bobbin tension is perfect by using the bobbin tension guage tool . any advice? what is the standard tension I should have the knobs turned to when i thread the upper? ps a video about those tiny black pre tension nubs would b awesome lol
Hello! I have a question 🫣 I was doing a design with an animal an some writing as well. For the animal the tension looks good but for the letters no (I couldn't see the bobbin thread on the back) and the letters were a bit "3d"on both sides (I choosed to be 3d but I didn't expect to be on both sides🤔) . I used the polyester thread for all design and same tension. What can be the problem? Thank you!
In the video you mention that if you are using a metal bobbin you need a spring insert to go in the bobbin case. I did not see that mentioned in the Brother manual, website or any other youtube video on tension. Can you tell me what that insert is called and why hasn't anyone else mentioned it ???
That’s interesting, whenever I have purchased a machine, the spring has always been inside the bobbin when opening up the box. You only need to use the spring for the metal “wind your own’ bobbins and not the cardboard pre-wound bobbins. If you google “bobbin case spring” it is the flat-ish curly round item. They sit at the back of your bobbin casing
Hi, another great video, but I have a domestic machine so not really applicable. However, you said prewound bobbins shouldn't be used on domestic machines, can you explain why please.
Hello, Thank you for your comment. The reason is they are different sizes. The multi-needle brother machines and other industrial machines accept L Style bobbins and the Brother Single Needle machines accept style A. Generally pre wound bobbins are purchased for mass production as winding your own bobbins takes up a lot of time.
Hello! It’s hard to know what the problem is without seeing a photo/video but your best bet is to go back to basics. After cleaning your bobbin, removing your needle plate and giving that a good clean too. Change your needle, put in a fresh bobbin, hoop up some craft felt with 1 layer of med weight stabiliser and run the tension test. It sounds like it might be a tension problem where the bobbin thread is too tight. Does the issue only happen with certain types of fabric or is it everything? After running your tension test and resetting your tensions if the problem persists the machine may need to be taken to a technician
Hi, thank you for your comment. You raise a good point and something I've not thought of before. I've never adjusted my tensions when embroidering on different materials. I regularly swap between thick woolly hats, fleece, cotton t-shirts and felt and I've never adjusted the tension. The results have always been fine, but that's not to say to not adjust your tension for different materials is correct it's just that I've never thought to do it because I haven't needed to. I'd imagine you could get some scrap of the material you plan to embroider on and run the tension test on that, if there is a difference in how the thread appear on the back, use that test as your basis and work from that :)
Thank you! Your video was super helpful for me as a beginner.
Ty for this tutorial. Easy to understand. I just bought me a used Valient 10 needle. I need to learn so much. I thank the Lord for these videos. Blessings 😊
I just love you, i started with a 10 needle. not smart i guss, felt like beeing blind lost in darkness. No clue on tension dont know anything about digitizing. this helps. thank you love
Absolutely LOVED your video, the way you explain things, and you give ALL the reasons behind why you should do this or that. I'm a beginner and I'm going to say the blue one needs the top tension higher and the top tension on the purple just a little bit lower. Since some of the needles are spot-on, this tells me that the bobbin tension is good. Can't wait to hear if I was right. I'm a new embroiderer and I'm trying to get the tension info wrapped around my 67-year-old brain so I can remember. Thank you for taking the time to show this. It has helped me immensely!
Yes that’s exactly right! I am so glad you found this video helpful. Tension is probably one of the hardest things in embroidery to get right after that it gets easier 😄
Omg I opened the tension plate for the first time since May and found a chunk of trimmed thread the width of my pinky finger! My poor machine! Thank you for your video! You saved me a major mental breakdown this morning.
Just got my Janome MB-4S and this is a great way to test because tensions have been off and haven’t even been able to use it yet. Going to try this test. Thank you!
This is a great video. I have a single needle and i found your pace and actual content to be spot on. Now I am tuning my Janome 550E based on what you have taught me. Again, your pace was ideal. I never fast forwarded or had to go back because I missed something. Your edits were great. I appreciate the time you took to make and edit this.
The most helpful video so far on tension problems…thanks
Thank you so much you just saved me $189.95 plus an hour and 20 min drive. They also said it would take 2 weeks to get back my pe550d🎉❤
Thank you! This video was SOOOO helpful! I have a new-to-me Happy HCS2 1201 and I love it. I played around with the tensions when I first got it home (I don't know why, I was excited!) and completely ruined the tension settings. Your video helped me to get everything back to perfect! Thank you again!
No problem! Really glad the video helped you out😁
I’m pretty sure there’s a built in tension file already loaded in the default files. It’s a bit different on each model, but it’s usually found when you press the first built in pattern button (I think it has a bird on it. Top-left.)
Sooo needed this video, i didnt even know that the different brands of bobbin thread would have a different effect on the tension, i struggled soo much before i learned how to fix the problem
Thank you. The information is very helpful and I am confident that my domestic machine will be back to normal soon.
Thanks for the video, I started having problems and had forgotten about the screw driver that came with my machine. I am not afraid of tension but you have made me feel a bit more confident.
Really great show and tell. I have been trying to learn more about Tension, so I have watched multiple UA-cam videos and although I have learned a little from each one, yours, by far, has been the best for me.
Thanks
THANK YOU FOR THIS WONDERFUL VIDEO. I was so upset with my machine and was not sure how to fix my problems especially the bird nesting! I will try all of these steps (tomorrow... it is late now) I do pray it will work easily for me as I saw in the video. Wish me Luck!
Ty for this video! I use a Digital Towa Gauge on my Janome Mb4 Bobbin Case. It takes the guesswork out of Bobbin Tension. For regular Embroidery on my Mb4, I set the Bobbin to 18-20 grams (or 180 to 200 mN). And for Quilting in the Hoop, I set it to 10 grams (or 100mN). Then, when I do a test sew, the only thing I have to adjust is the Top Tension. I have noticed that each of my machines, whether they be my Multi Needle Mb4, or my Single Needle Brother SE600, or my Longarm,… they all have their own “sweet spot” for Bobbin Tension. For regular Embroidery on my Brother SE600, I set the Bobbin to 30-33 grams (or 300 to 330 mN). But, for Quilting in the Hoop, I set it to 23 grams (or 230mN). And when I am too lazy to change it, I just set it to 28 grams (or 280 mN) for everything. I have been wanting to get a Brother 6 needle, so I would be so curious to know how many grams your machine would measure with a Digital Towa. I think the Brothers Multi Needles like about 22 grams (or 220mN) for regular embroidery. But, I have always wondered what they like for Quilting in the Hoop, because on my Mb4, I need to loosen my Bobbin Tension quite a bit (to 10 grams), and raise my Top tension all the way up, in order for the meeting of Top and Bottom to occur in the middle of the Batting. So, if you ever decide to get a Digital Towa, please let me know the numbers you have found.
Thank you for this video, Im new to all this. My machine was used and I went under the assumption that everything had already been set. I started looking at all the patches ive made to this point and noticed I was waaay under tensioned on my bobbins and over tensioned on my thread. After a few test stitches, I got it dialed in just like @0:46 and doing a patch as I am typing this and I havent broken a thread on this patch. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
No problem! So glad you found the video helpful. Good luck with your embroidery 🥰
great video. Saved me a lot of headache
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it was a huge help!
No problem! I’m so glad you found it helpful 💕
It was all bobbin thread all the way around now it’s perfect thank you
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful
Very helpful! Never thought to clean under the bobbin tension plate. Thanks so much
Thank you so so much for this!! I have just got a new embroidery machine and all of a sudden the thread is so loose in the front and I was about to send the machine back! I’m going to try your hints and tips this evening xxxx
Only 2 weeks into my PR 1055X. Not loving it yet. But this has been very helpful. Hope to see more tips on multi needle
Wow! Your video is excellent! Thank you so much!
This is an awesome video! Great info!
Thanks SO much this literally help save my sanity (plus another video that showed how to clean behind the tension springs in the bobbin case). I've already shared in a couple FB groups.
That’s great I’m so glad this video helped you 🥰
Thank you so much for this video. I believe the purple needs to be loosened or turned to the left and the blue needs to be tightened or turned to the right. I hope that is right and you will let me know. Thank you!
You've earned a new subscriber.
Very informative. Great video! I'd love to see metallic thread issues covered. I've tried everything except purchasing a metallic thread "needle".
Hi, I don't think you need a specific needle for metallic threads (or at least I don't use one) I use the same 75/11 sharp point needle that I use for everything else but I slacken off the top tension a bit. Some people also recommend running the machine at a slower speed for metallics :)
@@pinkbirdembroidery8281 I'm a beginner with a 4-needle machine and I was told to use a special needle that has a larger eye. The metalics are more prone to breaking because they get hot and break, but the larger eye helps as well as slowing down the speed to no higher than 600.
hi thank you for the video it is really helpful. I do have one question, the brother instruction booklet says to put the bobbin in clockwise - but all the videos on youtube say anticlockwise can you tell me what is the correct way ?
Absolutely loved the video and it was so helpful thank you x
Hi! Loved this video.. how do you deal with slight puckering around design if you get it? Thanks in advance!
Hello! Thank you for your comment I usually use two layers of tear away for everything and always hoop the fabric never float it as I know some people do. This is a really good question and I will make a video on it 💕
This saved me today! Thank you
As my multi needle is embroidering the threads in the other needles come out and then get stitched into design. I just paid $350. For a service. Can you help me? You are so knowledgeable
Very helpful video.
i love your tutorial help a lot so i was wondering if you could help me with my auto threader i have a brother 6 needle machine and i changed my needles and now it will not thread my needles auto
Do you have a video on setting tension for the Happy 12-needle? I finally have one on order and I'm getting nervous about setting the tension. I'm used to a Brother flatbed VE2300 and the tension is adjusted on it by merely tapping a button on the touchscreen.
this helped me out so much thank you!
Thanks a lot from Sydney 👍🏻
Thank you for your comment :D
Hello, love your video and I hope you can help me. I have an issue with my thread no reconnecting after a jump stitch cut. I have adjusted the upper thread tension until I am positive that's not the reason though I now have to keep it way too loose hoping the stitch reconnects but it usually doesn't. Would you have any advice?
The imperfect sample "I's" need the top tensions dials turned slightly left to "loosen" a smidge.
The tension test lines are in the machine - hope that helps. think it's on page 7 in machine
Nice video ! Thanks a lot
came to this video and im very familiar with all this info however even after cleaning under the tension knobs the tension doesnt change! not on all needles (pr 1000) some adjust fine. i know the bobbin tension is perfect by using the bobbin tension guage tool . any advice? what is the standard tension I should have the knobs turned to when i thread the upper? ps a video about those tiny black pre tension nubs would b awesome lol
Thank you for this video!
No problem :)
Hello! I have a question 🫣 I was doing a design with an animal an some writing as well. For the animal the tension looks good but for the letters no (I couldn't see the bobbin thread on the back) and the letters were a bit "3d"on both sides (I choosed to be 3d but I didn't expect to be on both sides🤔) . I used the polyester thread for all design and same tension. What can be the problem?
Thank you!
Thank you. Great Video..
Question, when I get a thread break, it looks like it's been frayed... is this a needle issue? Or?
you're the best ❤
In the video you mention that if you are using a metal bobbin you need a spring insert to go in the bobbin case. I did not see that mentioned in the Brother manual, website or any other youtube video on tension. Can you tell me what that insert is called and why hasn't anyone else mentioned it ???
That’s interesting, whenever I have purchased a machine, the spring has always been inside the bobbin when opening up the box. You only need to use the spring for the metal “wind your own’ bobbins and not the cardboard pre-wound bobbins. If you google “bobbin case spring” it is the flat-ish curly round item. They sit at the back of your bobbin casing
What causes "top tails". That is embroidery thread tail on top. I think it is happening at the start of the segment.
Very useful
Nice
What if the Bo in thread is to the right and not in the middle? How do I fix that?
Hi, another great video, but I have a domestic machine so not really applicable. However, you said prewound bobbins shouldn't be used on domestic machines, can you explain why please.
Hello, Thank you for your comment. The reason is they are different sizes. The multi-needle brother machines and other industrial machines accept L Style bobbins and the Brother Single Needle machines accept style A. Generally pre wound bobbins are purchased for mass production as winding your own bobbins takes up a lot of time.
Hello,
Is this possible on Brother VR/Persona?
What type of spray oil do you use on your hook?
Please do video on HSW thread tension
Thankkkk you!!!!
What thread/thickness are you using in this video?
Can you come over my house? Lol. I’ve been trying everything and can’t seem to get it right
Can you come over my house? Lol. I’ve tried everything and can’t get it right
Hey I really need your help , when I try to embroider the fabric gets stuck in the bobbin plate area and I don’t know why ? Do you have any idea
Hello! It’s hard to know what the problem is without seeing a photo/video but your best bet is to go back to basics. After cleaning your bobbin, removing your needle plate and giving that a good clean too. Change your needle, put in a fresh bobbin, hoop up some craft felt with 1 layer of med weight stabiliser and run the tension test. It sounds like it might be a tension problem where the bobbin thread is too tight. Does the issue only happen with certain types of fabric or is it everything? After running your tension test and resetting your tensions if the problem persists the machine may need to be taken to a technician
One thing I'm struggling with is how to know what kind of tension for different fabrics. I don't want to accidentally ruin a garment.
Hi, thank you for your comment. You raise a good point and something I've not thought of before. I've never adjusted my tensions when embroidering on different materials. I regularly swap between thick woolly hats, fleece, cotton t-shirts and felt and I've never adjusted the tension. The results have always been fine, but that's not to say to not adjust your tension for different materials is correct it's just that I've never thought to do it because I haven't needed to. I'd imagine you could get some scrap of the material you plan to embroider on and run the tension test on that, if there is a difference in how the thread appear on the back, use that test as your basis and work from that :)