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- Опубліковано 12 гру 2017
- So in the end I would say this new AN8009 model is just as good as the AN8008 and they are both great beginner multimeters but they can also be good for the more advanced user who better understands their limitations.
Get the Aneng AN8009 from:
Amazon voltlog.com/y/mweto
Banggood voltlog.com/y/gf3om
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/71rzk
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www.voltlog.com/voltlog-139-an... - Наука та технологія
Just ordered an 8009. Thanks for the excellent review!!
I've had the AN8009 for about a couple of years and it has been reliable for my needs. It had a problem with intermittent power with the rotary switch. Had to twist it left and right a few times for it to come on. I took it apart and cleaned and removed the layer of grease on the contact wheel (dielectric?). No problems with turning on anymore.
Thanks for the review - just discovered your channel through eev.
I'll definitely get one as a second multimeter because of the extended backlight. It's so annoying that even many expensive multimeters have a short 15 seconds timer for the backlight. So this will be a nice cheap backup for situations in dim light.
agree, that is a nice fix they did.
Thanks, now I want 2... Another great review brother...
thanks you for watching!
Great review, thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video! Liiks like a good "beginner" multimeter with all the leads for me.
Purchased 2 8008's and happy enough with them. Just compared measuring a AA cell on the 8008 and my B&K Precision 393 (expensive and accurate meter). Result was 0.0002V difference, so also quite accurate.
I agree, for the average hobby job, no need to spend $100, these little guys are great.
Yup! these multimeter ASIC's have made all this possible, because it is all integrated in that blob.
Just got the AN8009. The temperature and the NCV function are great. But as you said the NCV function doesn't work with walls. Great and honest review from your side. Thank you.
TheRock27 - Just checked this but doesn't change anything. On the other hand the sensitivity is great. 5V of my USB cable no problem. It beeps. And here it comes. At the outside housing of one of my aircons it starts to beep about 50 Centimeters away already. It is correct - there is sadly power on it. So the NCV function is a real life saver. And the bigger the surface of the problem is the earlier it will warn you because the electrical field is bigger. Of course this can be a problem too if you want to check a wire inside such a field.
At this occasion - checked some aircon compressor runtime capacitors with it in the meantime - used and high quality new ones. The measurements were extremely accurate and very quick - perhaps 3 seconds. That is not bad.
TheRock27 - You are right. First I did not understand. But if I switch to V and select there Hz and hold the probes near an electric field it shows it and much more sensitive than with the NCV function. Have learned something. Thank you for this great hint! I have checked it with my aircon housing. NCV shows the electric field from about 50 Centimeters away and your method from about 1 meter away. I am impressed. What can I do with the NCV function now... ;-
Want to add one more experience. Have a fan standing on the floor and it is switched off. Your method shows again an electric field from 1 meter away around the fan motor area even if the fan is off. Had to turn around the plug in the wall socket and then it was gone since the on/off switch is further down. Normally I check this with switchable plugbars if they are plugged in correctly and really off if they are switched off or at switchable lamps. But there you can check directly without electric field. Will check now everything if it is plugged in correctly :-)
TheRock27 - If I touch the metal of one of the probes with my finger my whole body acts as antenna and with this and your method I can even find electric fields from about 3 meters away. The correct frequency it shows me from about 2 meters away. Can you do this with other multimeters too? I have an old one where this doesn't work. Needed this new one to be able to meassure the farad values of capacitors.
I never realized that all these electric things create so far reaching electric fields. Good that I am not one of these persons who think to get sick because of such fields otherwise I would have a problem in my rooms now ; -)
$15 only - that hurts. I paid about $25 on Ebay. But I am very happy with it. And now even more since I know that I can meassure from meters away :-) Thank you again for the hint.
Banggood listing now shows both AN8008 and AN8009 with 9999 counts, just with different feature sets - pulse output vs. temperature input, maybe something else. The 6000 count model is now AN8001.
Nice video 🖖
Do both work with rechargeable batteries?
Checked my AN8008 backlight timeout, it's 2 minutes... 15 seconds WTF..
Do you know if you hold down the select (yellow) button when turning on the meter, it will not auto off (still beeps you tho).. for your interest.
preordered mine a while ago, hopefully arrives before 20th. i got the 8002 months ago, well spent 15 bucks i didnt regret at any moment
I ordered mine about 2 months ago :-) But hey delivery is slow here in Romania.
You'll like it. I had the 8002 and now the 8008. The 8008 is a lot faster. I own a couple of Flukes and some other ones but I am using this one more and more. I find it faster than most Uni-T and other cheap meters, and mine was, like the 8002, spot on the voltage and resistance so no calibration needed.
I would say this is probably one of the best deals around and a must have for anyone who is interested in electronics.
Yup, i got the Vici VC97 and the Fluke 11 since years but still prefer the Aneng over them, much more accurate and faster.
Just for high energy and mains stuff i rather use a safer one, or dedicated probes (duspol, siemens), 2 sub 50$ meters allready exploded while measuring mains. (mastech, voltcraft)
I just got the 8009, I need it for uA units measures. it gave 4.14uA!! Amazing.The display is little difficult to see from once, but nothing more beyond from it is a problem. I am amazed how a cheap $24 DMM can give. The plastic is very rigid, when I push Range, or select function buttons, I'll see like a push with my finger the LCD. in some point I feel like I am going to broke it in some way. It has 200mA fuse. for uA and I guess mA range,. I disassembled, it has death cockroach, and one tin debris almost making short cut in one parallel cap. Cleaned.
I really wish this DMM last a while, so I am am very budget guy.
I actually did tests with the probes my aneng8008 came in the same fashion dave on eevblog showed how to test whether probes were good or not. They're not too sharp, but the continuity testing was excellent. (ie letting their own weight on each other triggers the continuity tester).
the 8008 and 8009 are great little meters for the price but I can't say the same for their probes, they are low quality and will vary from one unit to another.
I bought the 8008 a months ago and the resolution is great. The viewing-angle for the LCD is terrible though. I am printing a new case for it because the original 'stand' sets the meter at a very bad angle for the LCD. Is it the same on the 8009? AT minute 4:07 of the video you can see a little difference between the two, but you have the backlight on for the new one, so its hard to tell for sure.
I will confirm what John Coops commented above, this meter was optimized for laying flat on the bench, it gives you best viewing angles like that. If you absolutely must sit it on the stand then you need to be sitting on a chair, maybe at the same level with the meter to get a good viewing angle.
Solved: The contrast of the display was always bad, but it was very bad at steep angles. I didn't suspect a problem, because I though it was just the way the meter was built; I should have asked if anyone else had the issue before assuming they were all like this. Anyway, I went to have a play with the meter and the LCD stopped working all together. When I popped it out of the shell, the negative wire running from the board around to the front of the LCD had come loose. Looked like it got pinched in between the two halves of the case. I de-soldered both wires, cleaned it up, and re-soldered new wires and now it works again. So it seems, the loose connection was the issue.Problem is solved. The contrast is bright and clear at all angles. ( Note:if you remove the front protection plastic, and leave it off, you have to tighten the three black screws near the top down well to the LCD gets contact with the board beneath it, or you wont see anything on the display). Glad, I fixed it.Also unsubbed. Later mate.
Glad to hear you solved the issue!
In the manual it says: " Do not input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current"
What's that really means? I cannot measure, lets say for example, how much current a 100w 220v bulb light draws ? ( I know I don't need the multimeter for that, it's an easy convenient formula to calculate it).
Or it is just a safety precaution to not accidentally measure voltages above that range while the multimeter dial is set on "A", "mA" and ruin the multimeter?
There is another... Look up Bside ZT302 on AliEx (no affliction). It's probably the most advanced 'new' version of this hardware.
I want to know who is actually making these and what else they make. They need to crush the market already with a $30 LCR that tests at a proper 100kHz frequency.
Both "Aneng" and "Bside" appear to be market/design labels that seem totally unrelated to the actual manufacturer. I haven't seen a website for any of these brands that contains respectable documentation or information that any responsible manufacturer should have posted. I've even tried to find a Chinese site, as difficult as that is without understanding even the simplest of Chinese, but no dice.
as someone commented below Zotek appears to be the OEM.
VoltLog
Interesting, thanks for pointing that out. The site is a bit odd, but at least it appears fairly honest about what they are doing. 'It's a single EE with 33 years experience that has been with the company since 2015.'
I wouldn't have imagined 1 engineer could put out a product like this solo. The only suspicious thing is that the Zotek site doesn't have the meter listed that has 4 lead terminals, REL button, and 9999 counts. They only have the 6k count version posted. Running a small business and maintaining a website is a bit challenging though.
Thanks for pointing to the ZT302! There's also a ZT301, with fewer counts (8000) and no square signal generator, but with temperature measurement.
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
where can we get new fuses for the current? I blew mine by mistake.
5:45 - What is the minimum uA resolution in the AN8009, is it possible to measure 1uA? If not, do you know a cheap multimeter to measure 1uA? Thank you.
Does anyone know the equivalent Zotek model? Other brands? Zotek appears to be the OEM, but their products sell under many brands. I'll probably have to buy this one too! I like that temp probe, major improvement from past models.
One question, The manual say, Never put voltage on diode mode, I have committed that mistake with my old MY64 so many times, never has failed so far. Any experience here may tell me what could happen to this 8009 or some mod to protect the circuit?
9:40 what about the smd components on the left of the battery holder?
i have the 8008, use it for my arduino/electrical hobby.. i really like it, does everything i want, is accurate and dirt cheap :)
So, can it measure low voltages correctly?
How do we get the continuity buzzer to turn on ?
Thanks for the video, I've bought 1 of these now as it's better than my current $30 multimeter. Click multimeter's suck
yup these Anengs are pretty nice value for money.
Some webshops sell the same AN8009 but the back box is black not red as at other shops. Does anyone acknowledge whether both devices with different colour are genuine or one of them is fake? Thanks
Where can I buy the fuses?
Hello Florin, I have 2 Aneng 8008 DMM's and I managed to blow a fuse in one of them. I can't seem to find any spares since I don't know what they are called. Do you know what type of fuses are they? Or better yet, have you bought any spares? If yes, from where? Thank you!!
they are 3.6X10MM fuses and you can find them on ebay.
@@voltlog Thank you for the reply. Interestingly, all I could find was the ones with leads... I guess I could snip them off...
The selector knob on my AN8008 is not at all cheap feeling, it actually feels exceptionally good. Even my Fluke 87V doesn't have steel balls in the dent mechanism, as the AN8008 has. I would expect the AN8009 to be the same.
who wich Good better ?
I was wondering if a person put a ptc resettable fuse in place of the 200ma 250v and the 10 amp and filled the space with something like silicon would that decrease the chance of arcing? Is the a problem using ptc resettable fuses in a multimeter
The component you insert there will be good for it's rating only and you also have to consider it might have certain parameters like internal resistance that will be different to the original fuse used there.
@@voltlog OK, Thanks. Figured there would be a reason nobody has tried this from what I have seen.
asked some sellers on ebay but all of their multimeters are copies.. how can we know we bought a genuine one? is the one in Bangood genuine?
try banggood or aneng official store on aliexpress
@@voltlog bought it on Banggood! thanks for your review. there is also a full black version which i also thought was a clone cause i didnt know if Aneng produce full black meters but only two tone ones. banggood representatives informed me its a genuine one though
@@tsikriteasspyros3927 good to hear that, you will enjoy it, good luck!
Are there contacts for a membrane switch on the PCB of the 8008? If so does anyone know for what function?
There is one membrane switch on the back of the 8008 that was removed on the 8009. I don't know what it is used for.
Why didn't they fix the 10ma and 100ma range? weird.
It's not like they listen to the community :-)
Mine detects live wires in the walls just fine.
The older model (an8008) seems to be more accurate than an8009 (based on that agilent meter reading).
it might be true for these particular units but in general they are identical because they use the same chip.
which better
I don't really understand why would anybody buy Aneng when you can have UNI-T 136B for the same price. Which is much more reputable brand with higher quality products. They also manufacture for Fluke in China market
I don't know why, but the "100MOhm" as a label on the dial gives me such a big chincy vibe. It just doesn't belong there.
thank god it doesn't have the old transistor test socket :-)
Big surprise means propaganda !!
8008 has 600ma fuse the 8009 looks like it has 200ma fuse
yey
I just bought one 8009, the LCD view angle is too bad. Garbage.