Riding Mower Spins Then Stops, Wont Start, Compression Release, Troy Bilt
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2020
- Mower not starting? Does it spin a little then stop suddenly? Most people assume it's a bad battery or starter, which it could be, but often it's a faulty "compression release mechanism" which is attached to the camshaft.
.....This device slightly opens the exhaust valve upon startup which reduces the compression. Once the engine is running, this spring loaded device remains out of the way by centrifugal force. Other reasons your mower doesn't start are valves in need of adjustment, bad battery, bad starter, loose battery connections, bad ground from starter.
Mower in video: Troy Bilt Pony, 2011, 17.5hp Briggs and Stratton, OHV
Well sir thank you for getting to the point thank you. Some of the UA-camrs want to get on there and run their mouth and tell you about their family and their whole life story before they get to the point.
fantastic video. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get it to turn - replaced battery, solenoid, and starter - turns to compression stroke and stopped. Your trick worked. Need to see how to replace the compression release now.
I was just on another video and it is absolutely insane to see so many people having the same problems years before you
It worked for me as well ! I tried all the things you mentioned first ,battery, starter and then I found your video ! Thanks man !
I have a craftsman with the same 17hp briggs motor. Thanks for this!!!
I had the exact same problem on my Craftsman lawn tractor with B&S engine. Not sure if its related or not but i had gas seep into my engine oil. After changing the oil, the engine would only spin to the compression stroke. Your starting trick worked! I wish i could buy you a beer! UA-cam is so awesome.
This was a perfectly made video. Short an full of info. Also happened to be my exact problem,easy to test . Iv also had luck with manually spinning the flywheel. Less work then air filter method
My dad brought his pony to me to fix, is doing the same thing at the highest point of the compression the starter would stop, drove me crazy thanks for putting this video up.
thank you for this video. I had already bought a new starter and still had the same problem, I was just about to buy a new solenoid and then I saw your video. from the time I tried what you said about the intake it started right up.
thank you thank you
I appreciate the fact that you got right to the point instead of going to the big circle because you trying to get paid
Thank you for this tidbit i got my mower started after last year not being able to use it
Excellent video. That was my problem. Just went out and tried it and it fired right up.
Philip you changed my day .awesome. thank you
Thank you this video, worked for me on the first try and afterwards i didn’t have to do it to restart 👍
Fantastically informative! You are the greatest one handed youtuber that had ever lived! (at least for the few minutes you held me captive to your video.) thanks!
This man is a genius! Success for me, rotating then choking it.
One check that is worth doing is a looksee before buying a cam and doing a tear down.
Check for excess valve lash. And while doing that spin the engine slowly. If you see the valve bump, then the cam was fine after all.
Cams occasionally have compression release issues, but look for the EASY BUTTON first.
Yep got it running & not sure he'll do the new camshaft he said he only uses it to bring hay to the horse's than mow with it & we have another mower but he Likes that Pony,He used my fog lights I had & put on the mower for night mowing lol..
TY Phil... ✌
Thanks man!! Just saved me $$$ on a new mower for now. Much appreciated!!
Bro you are the man!! Thanks for both fixes
Maaaaan, you just solved my 3-years-long struggle with our Craftsman mower (same engine). Thanks!
I have a craftsman mower too with the same problem. Hopefully this works
Does your engine spin at all when cranking? I have the same engine as the one in the video but when I turn, the key is spoons it just won’t crank up and start.
Great video, solved all problems, thank you.
Having exactly same problem, thought it was a bad battery, purchased new battery and same thing exchanged battery as I thought new battery was defective. Installed new battery and still same issue, then began researching and someone said probably bad starter, bench tested starter and OK, next step I pulled spark plug and engine spun freely, re-inserted spark plug and engine would not spin, dead battery symptoms, then I found this video and have exactly same symptoms, Was too late last night to try your solution will try this morning. Thank you for the video.
You can also remove the valve cover and adjust the exhaust valve where its just a hair open all the time and it will run just fine without having to go into the motor. I do it all the time on machines I fix.
You just saved me a lot of headache. Thank you
What's the spacing on the valve supposed to be? Seems like mine has way to much gap.
@@homemaker666 I set mine at .005 intake - .008 exhaust !!
Both on a 17.5hp Intek & 20hp Gold 540
How??
So with a filler gauge how far should I open exhaust. ?
Rhis is exact what im looking for ,i thank you so much really appreciate it
Cool! That is my exact problem, I'll try this and see if it works, thanks!
thank you for sharing this...im working on my sons tractor and i was thinking it was a timing issue ...but no points..lol..god im getting old
Good video, U explain exacly what I want to know, thank U.
Thanks that fixed our issue!!! Your awesome!!
Thanks buddy. Just the video i was looking for
Ditto! I have the exact same mower too!
Great info. Had no idea. Thanks
I have the same since day 1,that it's odd, I will check the valves adjustment first.
Thanks ! . . .exactly the problem I was having ! SOLVED
Your a genius That s what mine is doing.. I'm going outside right now to give a shot, thank you for sharing.. P.S. will let you know if it works
@@philipwilliamshomeinspecti4665 No it is appropriate in this case.. I tried what you said, and IT WORKED!!.. Thank you so much
You the man.. I drained oil and stuck a magnet in drain and click click it’s was right there.. now to see if I can get it out ?? Lol thanks again
Bro thanks ! I have the same problem. You are a lifesaver.
Thanks!
@@philipwilliamshomeinspecti4665 Use a B&S-approved camshaft and it should last for years, not hours. See my post, above.
@@philipwilliamshomeinspecti4665 where do i find the b&s camshaft
This worked great for me. Thank you so much!!
That's great.
I have a 2017 troy bilt pony that had that issue almost immediately and I didn't wna warranty it just diagnose it and fix it myself... well it's 2022 and today I just swapped in a newer replacement motor the old one is going in a go kart mower and yes still hard to start but still runs good but it's at the end of its life cycle.
Really Briggs thanks
Dude! You saved me
Thank you!
Also I subscribed as well as a thank you, great channel..
This is exact what my mower is doing I have the same mower.
Yeah Troy built is ass
Thank you, Thank You!
Couldn't believe this worked. Same mower with the same issue. Can also start if in the choke potion with the throttle.
I would be interested in knowing if that inexpensive Chinese camshaft held together for a couple of weeks, much less months or years. They are just not made as well as B&S OEM ones. I learned my lesson after having to install two different Chinese ones within two weeks of each other. I received a third replacement camshaft from another supplier and it was made so poorly that I refused to even install it! The problem with the cheap ones is the compression release mechanism itself fits too sloppy and the worst problem with them is the semi-circular part of the pivot pin does not entirely recess into the edge of the cam as intended. The result is the pushrod that rides on the cam lobe slams the pin with each rotation resulting in a grenaded mechanism. The grenaded parts usually end up being about 6 pieces that are launched into the camshaft gear and the driveshaft gear. Ever watched steel eating steel just like those hungry machines in the salvage yard? You get the idea. Either use OEM Briggs and Stratton-approved camshafts or go to a reliable lawn mower repair facility. They will use OEM Briggs too.
I watched another video that pretty much says that, but you got right to the point! I can't work on engines any longer, so I will just keep trying to start mine, the way this man shows how!
I don't want you to damage your motor I don't know if it damages it or not but it'd be nice to see what the actual problem was but thanks for your video people like you make people's lives very much easier for that one problem that nobody else has. Thks
I have the same issue . I just lift up the hood turn the fly wheel counter clockwise 3 or 4 times till it stops , turn the key and she starts.
Wow this is exactly the issue mine was having tried what you said and it started right up thank you! I couldn't tell you how many videos I had to go thru to find this one after multiple times trying but failing to get it to start super frustrating! Thank you!! Where did you get the part to fix it?
Don't think I saw 2 video's before found this one & Yep Pony Started & kinda took 2 ppl to do it because well they Key broke & it's Rigged so one uses a piece of metal to jump the switch,it's TRASH plastic so what we do so he jumped the wire while I covered the air filter spot & Pony Started up.
I tend to be the one who give me the Diag and I'll try to look it up,Him not so much,he bought a new Batt,changed something else and Pony needed new Batt anyway so My way prob was quicker... Shhh lol...
I feel your pain, I was there also. Was. Going to find a bridge to push it off lol
The thing is my mower has a birth date on the tag of 4/2017 already had the anti backfire device on the bottom of the carb go up in smoke. Now early last year it began this. In 2017, I mowed 2 times for 2 hours each then all of 18-21. Last year maybe 12 times all season since it was so dry. That's not a lot of service and already broke the cam. TroyBilt or Briggs should be standing behind this stuff. But I'm sure they will clown their way out of it.
Started right up, cut smooth
That's a great idea I think my compression is broken that helps to start it
Awesome!!!!!!
Great vid 😎👍 ..... My question is Where did you you get the replacement part @ for ubder $40 🤔🤔🤔
I have the same problem. I was looking in the oil drain hole and saw metal pcs. I used a magnet on stick and pulled all of it out.
It will probably sit in there forever. An incorrect valve adjustment can cause the same problem. So check the valve gaps before tearing the engine apart.
I’m am or was having the same issue. That’s how mine started. It’s irks bump a little then stop. I wasn’t sure what it was so I checked electrical first. I chose electrical because new headlight bulbs were just installed and they weren’t workin. At any rate, after some tinkering. Tried to crank it and the motor
Took off spinning pretty fast. Using my hand I tried to turn the flywheel and it was pretty easy. Like it had no compression. ????? Did the compression relief finger break off and get stuck in an exhaust valve holding it open? Im at a loss.
Having this same problem but doing this still doesn't seem to get it started. I'm pretty well stuck at this point and not sure which direction to go.
Where did u find the camshaft. I have a mower now That needs the same thing
Tractor Troy Bilt Pony model 13AN77KQ011shoots a carburetor while working at low speeds, what could be the reason?
I have a 2013 Troy built bronco and the last time I rode it it was sputtering. Ever since it’s been clicking even though I replaced the starter, battery and solenoid. What else can it be? The engine was spinning at one point but it didn’t start
I bought this mower 5 years ago and hatred it ever since
Mine is randomly doing something similar, my “fix” is to move the “collar” which is immediately below the starter gear, clockwise at least a quarter turn, then the engine starts up. I am here bcs I too am wondering if the starter bearings have a worn spot? Guess i will try the air intake trick, im not sure my theory is correct…
What would cause it to not continue running after taking you hand off but keep running when leaving your hand on?
So easy?
And i went through all the trouble taking off the valve cover and manually held open the intake valve making a big mess in the process.
I found an easier way to get it started. I manually turn the engine clockwise to just past top dead center of the compression stroke. From that point there is enough momentum where the engine will continue to spin and start.
Could this also cause the compression to stay released?
The mower souns freely, but no compression.
My Mtd Yard Machines cranks over fast with the spark plug removed, barely cranks with the plug in.
Question: Were you able to make the mower run before this fix? My mower kinda does the same thing but after a while it will start.
Great tip and it works! Except the engine starts but anything above idle it runs as if the timing has gone wacky, miss fires badly. Any suggestions
Have you cleaned the carb
Ah use a super choke method to flood the engine? MIght want to check the valve adjustment....
While trying to start my battery died, i bought new starter, replaced selenoid... i have to try this option...
huh, did not know that type engine would have that issue. well now i know.
and thank you .
[ this part edited ( plz wash that mower , lol ) i have OCD and when someone shows where a certain part is, i cannot see it because of all the ( sediment ) } .
dont know if you still have that mower, but i am having trouble with mine. it is the same as the one you have, my problem is . . . the fuse box.
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one wire goes into the harness, the other is loose and i do not know where it was attached to.
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do a video of where the wires go, especially the loose one.
plz do not make the vid short.
<
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mower has no juice at the ignition switch because of that wire.
thank you .
First. Don't stick your bare hands over the carb intake and crank it. Wear a leather glove. If it backfires... well you get it. Second. The compression release device often just sticks after over-wintering. Just start it like he says and it will get lubed and loosen up again and you may never have the problem again.
having the same problem with mine turning it clockwise and torqueing it to exactly halfway to make engine at top dead center then start it works too. my only issue is now engine runs like crap while wide open throttle cutting grass
Yep, I understand your loss of power. What happened is the cam gear on the camshaft has turned a bit, due to one of the cam lobes eating one or more of the grenaded release assembly pieces and thus your timing is now permanently off! Ask me how I know. :-)
@@f86fman so this is permanent? Have you tried to determine the extent of the repair?
I used the cover technique and it is turning over but not kicking on. Replaced the coil, wire, and plug. Carb is new and cilanoid is bypassed (deactivated). Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
Once it begins spinning with your gloved hand blocking the intake, you have to remove your hand while cranking and let air in. You're not just holding off all of the air all the time it is cranking are you?
@@rom5285 I think I flooded mine doing this that you mentioned, and I ran out of daylight trying to start it last night, so I will try again after I get some sleep! It was trying to fire, but I kept it covered too long, and I saw another video where a guy gave 3 little shot of starting fluid in the hole first, I might try that if no luck!
@@johnnyobigcatdaddy Yes, generally if that really is the problem, it will start instantly with your gloved hand over the intake. So, yes you could have flooded it, because it gets no air at all with your intake plugged. I think one could release intake just as it starts spinning, don't even wait for it to run to avoid flooding.
@@rom5285 Thank you!
I tried that but the engine stop as soon as I removed my hand. Any ideas?
Well, that got it cranking. Not turning over though.
What was the part number please
fix or test the link
I have the same problem but mine will not start.
Hey Philip. Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. I think you told me what is wrong. Thanks
I got the same problem was it a bad coil?
@@tatechasers2393 It was a broken pressure release on the camshaft. I changed my camshaft and all is good now. Watch my videos on replacing a camshaft. It is not that hard. If you have any questions, just ask.
I have the same mower. It turns over, makes a grinding sound after a second and doesnt start. I’ve already replaced the battery, drained the old gas and replaced with new gas. Any idea what to try next? Im a 66 yr old woman on a fixed income, and not a mechanic, so layman terms would be appropriate here!
@@philipwilliamshomeinspecti4665 : If the starter was bad, would it still turn over? There’s no clicking sound, just the starter turning over and about 1 second in there’s a grinding sound! Could it be the starter gear? Cant find any video that shows that grinding sound!
Wish I lived next door to you. I would replace your camshaft for just the price of the part. Almost a certainty that this is the problem. Highly doubt it is your starter. Those are about bullet-proof.
@@f86fman Thank you Teddy! I appreciate your comment more than you can ever imagine. I finally broke down and had a repair company pick up both my tractor and push mower for repair! This is what credit cards are for.... right? lol
How did you start it without pushing in the brake all the way activate the brake switch? On my Pony you have to push the brake in to start.
parking break does the same job when starting - i just figured that same thing out. Hope that helps.
You can push the clutch/brake in and push the yellow lever all the way down to get it to hold!
mine just shoots fuel out the side of the brand new carb when i do this
This video is useless
I repair Lawn Tractors Daily and this is a very common problem with the Briggs Engines. From 12 hp all the way to 19.5 hp Its a Pain in the Ass to fix if you don't know what you're doing
You work in them daily so I’m asking, hope jij don’t mind. Mine was doing the same. I started with electrical because the headlights quit working at the same time. Brand new bulbs. After some tinkering and checking I tried to crank it and t took off spinning really fast. Using my hand I tried to turn the flywheel and it was easy. Like almost no compression. Did the relief finger break off and stick in an exhaust valve holding it open or somethin? I am at a loss.
@@204Heavy I believe the momentary compression relief works on the intake valve. Take the spark plug out, shine a light down in the hole. Spin the motor over while looking in the hole and see if the piston is moving.
@@jakemoody82 Jake thanks for gettin back to me buddy. I really appreciate it. I just found your email today so sorry for the delay. Oh can’t see down to the piston, I will have to take a few more parts off the from to see in there. I did take an Allen key and stick down in the hole and then rotated the motor by puttin the butt of my palm on the flywheel and rotating like that. There is some movement but there is no momentum behind it. It tapped a couple times, I pulled the key back and it was now making a tap noise on its own for a few seconds. I can push the key deeper Andy will get caught by what seems to be the piston but again there’s nothing behind it as far as push I can move it back and forth and free the key up easily. A few times I got against the piston sidewall and it wasn’t moving when I rotated the motor. I was being very gentle to not tear something else up.
Something like a wrist pin has come out you think?
@@204Heavy the wrist pin won't come out with the piston inside the cylinder. Most likely it's come loose at the crank. If it spins over and doesn't make a buch of clanking sounds then it's apart at the crank. If you do hear clanking the the rod is probably still attached hitting the cylinder walls and has broken at the piston
My left (Driver side. The one with the adjustment gear) of the deck is high. The right side (passenger side. grass outlet side) is low. When lever is on position 4, i.e. the second highest, the right side of the deck scrapes the grass! ...... blah blah blahhh... the problem was tire pressure.
Buy another adjusting bar and add to low side.
Normal for this to happen with a B/S engine
Other than that there pretty good engine but it’s a 350 repair cost
after watching many videos these mowers can run 15 years or more
I bought a new battery and new starter solenoid with no success and then started watering UA-cam vids and thanks to others with the same problem got it figured out but realized how cheat Briggs and Straton and Troy Built is!!!! Stop buying their crap!!!
If Briggs and Straton or Troy Built had any integrity or common sense, they'd offer a free repair/recall on this very common problem instead of making their customers bite the bullet!! Just more greedy bastards wanting to horde more and more money!! No more Briggs motors for me!! Shame on them!!!!!!!!!
It’s gonna fall to the bottom! It won’t bother anything
Really this is what bs needs to do and throw away the compression release
If you can actually change out this compression release gadget yourself, show me.
There are a ton of videos already produced on UA-cam. Most are very well done.
Are you sure that after starting it and running it for a while, the problem still exists? Often this problem occurs after over-wintering and the compression release just sticks and won't release until it runs and re-lubes itself with crankcase oil. May start fine after that.