You have convinced me to pick this one up. Ordered the parts list! Thanks for the break down. I scored this hcalory for 180$ recently so it was a no brained!
Wow! This is so cool! 😎How well Hcalory's HC-A01 toolbox and fuel tank fit together! So glad you like our brand of heaters and have given them many gorgeous transformations!😍😜
Holy crap that freaking extended power cable is SOO great and cheap. I can run that the full length of truck bed and into the power system inside my pickup camper without a single wire crimp. Nice find there dude!!
Wow pimp my diesel heater some nice upgrades! I like the roto pack now it looks just like the Yona Adventure Gear heater. I'm sure you don't have $999.99 into your build. Also nice touch and with the IceCo cooler 12 dc plug! I really like how this unit has the side exaust. I've often thought about adding one of the metal 3 inch air intakes to do the same air trasfer in. Just haven't found a need yet even at 23F. When we used our all in one little red box 5k diesel heater with our CVT Shasta Summet tent we would just set the heater on the tire step. Then just run the hose in the back door at bottom of the annex and back up to the ladder door. That worked great so in the middle of the night if you have to come down to use the bathroom it was a little warmer in the space. Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with. One thing I saw on the GFC forum was a 3" hose attchement that sat in the zipper made by Yona just doesn't look like it ended up in production maybe only for the unit they make and sell for $999.99 - super trick. Looking forward to seeing where you mount it! We like our tire step spot.
In the installation instruction of the heatshield for exaust line. They suggest leave few inches at the end of the pipe to let the heat go out. otherwise it is not good to fully isolate it at 100%
Definitely don't want your fuel pump horizontal, it will trap cavitation bubbles and not be able to lubricate the piston with the lube in diesel fuel. Also will lead to an unclean burn, atomization issues and you will have to clean your heater more frequently.
I saw that too and was thinking the same. I bought that same unit recently but returned it. When I opened it, the factory orientation was just like what you see in the video
Have you personally tested this? This subjedt has been hashed to death for a decade on UA-cam yet I have not talked to anyone who has experienced a failure as you have described. ALSO, it may be a mute point in the case of this heater as the pump is not mounted level. Perhaps I am misunderstanding your comment? Thanks
Great idea! Why did you not mount the Rotopax on the side where the original diesel tank was located so that you can always have access or service the heater. UPDATE >> I notice Nemesis5Zero is the only video I found using Rotopax, I manage to put mine in the original tank location. You have to dismantle the case to reach behind to install the screws.
Awesome build and thanks for the detailed description of each upgrade; what happened to the original air filter connection tube that is attached towards the bottom of the unit?
I'm going to use a boat motor fuel tank so I can unplug it to fill it so there's less chance of spills inside my shop. It will hold more too so I'd fill it less often!
I plan on adding the boat quick connects to my setup because i still want a smaller tank. I initially used a cheaper disconnect that failed after one use.
Hey! Just picked up a rotopak can for similar and found your video. Assuming you ripped out the fuel filter in the rotopak, and just curious if you have any more detail about converting the gas can to this purpose. I am planning to remove the filter but you appear to have a piece of metal in yours? The only seal that came with mine is on the pour spout and I want to get rid of that too. Thanks! P
@@skiptloo I ended up pulling out the fuel mesh screen, cutting a piece of aluminum sheet to a round plug, removed the fuel pouring nozzle and took the rubber seal off of it and put that on the aluminum ring. Drilled 2 holes - one for the fuel pickup and another for a brass breather valve fitting. shoved it all into the alum disc, put the black rotopax cap on it, and screwed it all together.. badabing badaboom!
Just to confirm, you cut a piece of aluminum the same diameter of the red cap. Got rid of the red cap and used the aluminum outfitted with the old seal, breather valve and fuel pickup line. Also, does the filter/ mesh pull out or do you have to cut it out? Can you shoot me a link of wha breather valve you used?
Can you please!!!, let me know what wire you use to extend your thermostat, because i tried doing that with one of my diesel heaters and now it only stays on level one heat and doesnt go to level 10😬
I replicated this, not super happy with my rotopax gascap fuel valve. Can you share how you modded that, did you use diesel resistant washers? Also for the fuel lines, do you have a link for the extra black hose? Super appreciative of your share, so much cheaper than the fancy ones!
Hey what fuel line did you buy for the inside of the case? Or did you just use the line that came with that kit? I'm not sure I'll do the roto-pax kit...but I'd like to get the right fuel line and decent hose clamps to throw out all that Green stuff.
Great video! Question - when the rotopax is disconnected and the heater is packed away does it smell like diesel? I would transport the heater in the trailer and don’t want it to smell like diesel fuel. How many nights will a rotopax of fuel last? Thx.
@ I’m looking for something more dynamic; one that deals not only with fuel consumption, but also cold temps and hot temps. Your method will work, however I’m concerned with fuel spillage if I forget to tighten it up. I’m using my heater in a 2000 F250 and older Alaskan Camper
I've got a question. Your power cord idea is great. I'm unable to find the socket that would mount on the heater box. The only one I found was on eBay and the Aussie was listing it for $60. What was your source for the socket. Thanx.. Bill
What are you doing for an air filter? I just got mine HC-A01 and there is no air filter in that big black end-cap assembly. It has the small white foam, but the air flows freely straight down the tube with no requirement to go through a filter. Its also a large external tube and big plastic thing hanging out the side (stock). I need something cleaner and simpler than that. I could just have it draw air in from within the case. The case has so much venting to it. Maybe that's the clutch move?? Then the air inside there would be pre-heated a bit too from the heat tubing. Obviously its just for the intake so it wouldn't expose me to any CO poisoning. What do you think?
And what did you replace in the rotopax? I noticed a metal ring around the mouth. I bought a brass pickup tube and just used the same cap but will probably re enforce with another washer to sandwich the connection better🤙
Was thinking about doing this soon. You have to remove the stand pipe every time you refill the Rotopax though, don't you? Doesn't that drip fuel everywhere? Thinking of adding a separate hole in it for the stand pipe...
So I just ordered this unit based off the last video. But now you said that the entire heating unit crapped out on you? So what should I look out for in my unit when I get it?
It can happen with any mass produced part. You’ll want to start the unit and run it for a while. The fan should sound smooth, no grinding etc. I’m sure you’ll be fine.
I tried that fuel pickup you have linked but repeatedly got an E-8 code. I never saw any fuel pass through the filter and pump section in the hose. Installed the stock botten fuel pickup, messy to install having had diesel already in the tank and pouring it back into my fuel can. Fuel began to pass through and then I got got an E-5 code a number if times. This time, I found the aftermarket end hose vent cap was too restrictive. Replacing it with the freer flowing stock vent end cap eleviated that code problem.
So I've attempted to copy your fuel tank setup but I've come across two issues. One, cutting the stand pipe so that I do not clamp the hole permanently closed. Two, the standpipe connection to your tank, the red cap, is that custom or how did you alter the one that came with the RotoPax? Thanks.
Check out Ai13 nozzles. Specifically their “shipping spacer”. Just found it myself after getting my rotopax in and noticing they changed them so the old replacement nozzles didn’t work. This adapter will fix it.
Hey man, I’m doing this build but wondering about what is best for a fuel can? I’m not sure I have room to store both the heater and the can mounted on each other. Is there a better solution you’ve found or advice for allowing the fuel tank and heater case to be separate? Also with the Rotopax can, do you have a breather hole or do you just open the cap a bit? You don’t want suction preventing the fuel being pumped
the cap of the rotopax allows some breathing. Its up to you what fits best for you on what fuel can to use. On the lowest setting the stock tank it comes with does well.
I picked one up but it keeps surging my bluetti 70s every while using the Iceco cable didn’t do have their fridge. Seriously thinking about moving to jackery because of this issue. Do you have any advice?
Did you used to have a website where you sold these conversions? I know I found them online a year or so ago but I can’t seem to find the website anymore.
Question about your small air intake tube inside the box. Did you replace yours? Mine came with a tan one that looks and feels like cardboard. Did yours come the same way?
sorry I’m a little confused. Are you referring to the the air intake hose (the black one inside the box that comes from the bottom of the heater next to the wrapped exhaust tube and connects to the hole next to the fuel line connection). Just trying to get clarification because mine is tan and feels like cardboard so I’m wondering if I am supposed to pull that out and replace it with the black one that came loose in the box with the other parts.
What time of glue can I use to glue the face where the exhaust is because it cracked and some pieces broke off but most of the face is intact but I want to fix it.
@@NemesisDigitalMedia My new Delta 2 only has a cigarette charger of 12.6v 126W max, I'm new at electrical stuff so this apparently isn't enough to keep the Hcalory on while it's charging. What is the Max wattage on your Jackary's car charger?
Just got my heater all set up and I’m powering it with my EcoFlow delta max. The heater keeps tripping the 12v outlet on my EcoFlow. Did you have this issue or have any idea what might be causing this? The heater will begin to run and after about 5 minutes the fan will kick up on the heater and then the EcoFlow outlet turns off
Known issue with the 12v outlet. Mine no longer consistently works with systems that have a low voltage shutoff. The engineers couldn't figure things out and suggested I send it back in for a refurb. I passed as my battery pack is very strong.
The idea of the airflow is not totally correct. You could put a 10" intake on it and the flow won't change. The amount of flow (in cfm) is governed by the amount of flow of the most restricted point. Putting a massive diameter cold air intake on a vehicle makes no sense (and no improvement) due to the size of the throat on the throttle body, intake runners, and valve size. Eventhough it has a 3" intake and exhaust, it won't flow the same as a 3" pipe because the air still is being forced thru the aluminum fins of the heat exchanger, further restricting airflow. Sweet build though. As mentioned by another, the fuel filter should have at least a 30-40° angle. I had one of these and was surprised to see that from the factory it was horizontal. That is super bad for reasons mentioned by another.
If you want a full-on education about these diesel heaters, check out John McK 47. He has EVERYTHING you need to know about the proper set-up. He even does bench tests and keeps records of his data!
Great looking mods, I am changing a few things in my Hcalory. Is that 3" ducting hose working out with the 200 degree heat? I like the price point but want to make sure it is as safe as possible. All the reviews I have read are all over the map, some say garbage, others think its fine. No melting? 🙂
What's the point of having a heater mounted in a plastic box if it's still not waterproof? I don't see any advantage over a standard metal Vevor all in one unit. It's actually worse as it takes more room in a rig. I bought all in one Vevor a month ago, did some basic mods, installed it on a tire step and ran some tests. Seems to be ok, and I'm not sure if it makes sense to make it more watertight. I'm not going to run in in the ocean or a lake lol. You still need to store the hoses and the muffler outside the box, and do some basic assembly every time you use it. Not being negative, just trying to understand the trend of everyone trying to put a heater in a box :) Is it only to look more cool and "fancy overlandy"? :D
@@NemesisDigitalMedia OK, but opening the case with fuel tank installed on the door seems to be a bit cumbersome. Unless you pull it every time but this would add another step to the setup. I don't know, I like the clean look of a diesel heater installed in the box and I almost pulled the trigger, but I'm still not sure if it's worth it from the functional standpoint :)
@@vwlukas cumbersome? You don’t even have the setup. It takes 3 seconds to open it and get the parts out and close. If I wanted to fully service the box it takes 15 seconds to pull the tank off.
@@NemesisDigitalMedia is it easy to open even with 2 gallons of diesel in a tank and no access to the bench? Hcalory sells empty cases for about $80 but I think they come without the metal bracket that allows to mount the heater which is kinda a bummer. @edit: oh, wait, somehow I was fully convinced that the gas can is attached to the box door which obviously is not the case lol🤣
@@vwlukas agree. Looks like the tank should have been mounted on the other side of the box. There would then be no reason to remove the tank before opening the door.
Hey I've found decent moto 1"in/25mm air filter is apparently a big deal for the intake line. 25mm all screen air filter. That black thing doesn't do anything to silence or filter air. John Mk tested it out.
@@Dirt-Diggler yep! If you look at my pump I did bend the bracket a bit to give it some angle. I could probably bend it a little more, but its been running great for around 80 hours of usage so far.
How does this do in the weather/rain? Think it’s weather proof enough for Ski Resort camping? I’m about to buy one and set it up under my truck camper.
@@vin9976 the actual heater inside the box is ment/ designed to be fitted under a vehicle so are pretty weather proof BUT on the cheaper heaters personally i would spray the ecu motherboard with conformal coating and add some Vaseline to the wiring plugs to be extra sure 👍
You have convinced me to pick this one up. Ordered the parts list! Thanks for the break down. I scored this hcalory for 180$ recently so it was a no brained!
Wow! This is so cool! 😎How well Hcalory's HC-A01 toolbox and fuel tank fit together!
So glad you like our brand of heaters and have given them many gorgeous transformations!😍😜
Holy crap that freaking extended power cable is SOO great and cheap. I can run that the full length of truck bed and into the power system inside my pickup camper without a single wire crimp. Nice find there dude!!
For the air intake, you can modify a Rigid shop- vac filter, worked for me.
Wow pimp my diesel heater some nice upgrades! I like the roto pack now it looks just like the Yona Adventure Gear heater. I'm sure you don't have $999.99 into your build. Also nice touch and with the IceCo cooler 12 dc plug! I really like how this unit has the side exaust. I've often thought about adding one of the metal 3 inch air intakes to do the same air trasfer in. Just haven't found a need yet even at 23F. When we used our all in one little red box 5k diesel heater with our CVT Shasta Summet tent we would just set the heater on the tire step. Then just run the hose in the back door at bottom of the annex and back up to the ladder door. That worked great so in the middle of the night if you have to come down to use the bathroom it was a little warmer in the space. Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with. One thing I saw on the GFC forum was a 3" hose attchement that sat in the zipper made by Yona just doesn't look like it ended up in production maybe only for the unit they make and sell for $999.99 - super trick. Looking forward to seeing where you mount it! We like our tire step spot.
Thank you! Always appreciate your feedback on my videos!
@@NemesisDigitalMedia 🙂
In the installation instruction of the heatshield for exaust line. They suggest leave few inches at the end of the pipe to let the heat go out. otherwise it is not good to fully isolate it at 100%
Definitely don't want your fuel pump horizontal, it will trap cavitation bubbles and not be able to lubricate the piston with the lube in diesel fuel. Also will lead to an unclean burn, atomization issues and you will have to clean your heater more frequently.
I saw that too and was thinking the same.
I bought that same unit recently but returned it. When I opened it, the factory orientation was just like what you see in the video
Have you personally tested this? This subjedt has been hashed to death for a decade on UA-cam yet I have not talked to anyone who has experienced a failure as you have described. ALSO, it may be a mute point in the case of this heater as the pump is not mounted level. Perhaps I am misunderstanding your comment? Thanks
You covered a lot of edge cases which really comes in handy, nice design!
Great idea! Why did you not mount the Rotopax on the side where the original diesel tank was located so that you can always have access or service the heater. UPDATE >> I notice Nemesis5Zero is the only video I found using Rotopax, I manage to put mine in the original tank location. You have to dismantle the case to reach behind to install the screws.
Awesome build and thanks for the detailed description of each upgrade; what happened to the original air filter connection tube that is attached towards the bottom of the unit?
do you have a link to the better fuel line? I haven't been able to find the sturdier fuel line in the correct size. Thanks.
I'm going to use a boat motor fuel tank so I can unplug it to fill it so there's less chance of spills inside my shop. It will hold more too so I'd fill it less often!
I plan on adding the boat quick connects to my setup because i still want a smaller tank. I initially used a cheaper disconnect that failed after one use.
Where did you get the cone shaped adapter that's inside the case to adapt the inlet from the standard 3-inch to the 5 inch coupler?
This looks great to extend the car camping season.....um I mean "overlanding" season 😂
Excellent video and links to help. Very well narrated. New sub. from the usa 641. Always thumbs up!!!
Hey! Just picked up a rotopak can for similar and found your video. Assuming you ripped out the fuel filter in the rotopak, and just curious if you have any more detail about converting the gas can to this purpose.
I am planning to remove the filter but you appear to have a piece of metal in yours? The only seal that came with mine is on the pour spout and I want to get rid of that too.
Thanks!
P
I would like to know this conversation as well!!!
@@skiptloo I ended up pulling out the fuel mesh screen, cutting a piece of aluminum sheet to a round plug, removed the fuel pouring nozzle and took the rubber seal off of it and put that on the aluminum ring. Drilled 2 holes - one for the fuel pickup and another for a brass breather valve fitting. shoved it all into the alum disc, put the black rotopax cap on it, and screwed it all together.. badabing badaboom!
Just to confirm, you cut a piece of aluminum the same diameter of the red cap. Got rid of the red cap and used the aluminum outfitted with the old seal, breather valve and fuel pickup line. Also, does the filter/ mesh pull out or do you have to cut it out?
Can you shoot me a link of wha breather valve you used?
@@philgilles9429 Sorry to join so late.... Do you put a different cap on the tank when traveling?
I am really ready to try one out, it’s getting colder here soon .
Can you please!!!, let me know what wire you use to extend your thermostat, because i tried doing that with one of my diesel heaters and now it only stays on level one heat and doesnt go to level 10😬
I replicated this, not super happy with my rotopax gascap fuel valve. Can you share how you modded that, did you use diesel resistant washers?
Also for the fuel lines, do you have a link for the extra black hose? Super appreciative of your share, so much cheaper than the fancy ones!
Hey what fuel line did you buy for the inside of the case? Or did you just use the line that came with that kit? I'm not sure I'll do the roto-pax kit...but I'd like to get the right fuel line and decent hose clamps to throw out all that Green stuff.
In January 2024, I bought the upgraded Hcalory with Bluetooth for 149 (229 regular price).
The one like yours without Bluetooth is 169.
Is your fuel tank vented? Most are vented through the cap...maybe enough air is sneaking around your intake plug drilled through the cap.
Great video! Question - when the rotopax is disconnected and the heater is packed away does it smell like diesel? I would transport the heater in the trailer and don’t want it to smell like diesel fuel. How many nights will a rotopax of fuel last? Thx.
How do you vent your tank? So air can replace the fuel as it is being consumed.
I am looking to do the same thing, my plan is just to loosen the cap a tiny bit before use, to let air in.
@ I’m looking for something more dynamic; one that deals not only with fuel consumption, but also cold temps and hot temps. Your method will work, however I’m concerned with fuel spillage if I forget to tighten it up. I’m using my heater in a 2000 F250 and older Alaskan Camper
its almost a casing for computer gaming you built!!! look good!
Do you have fuel feed issues?I like the tank set up just wondering if pump works fine seeing how everyone else does gravity fed from bottom of tank .
Thanks for sharing the info George! Question: does the exhaust muffler get hot? Just wondering how that sitting on a plastic tailgate would fare.
it gets very hot, you for sure wouldnt want it touching anything lol
What did you end up figuring out for carrying this unit and/or setting it up? Do you disconnect the hoses on every trip?
I've got a question. Your power cord idea is great. I'm unable to find the socket that would mount on the heater box. The only one I found was on eBay and the Aussie was listing it for $60. What was your source for the socket. Thanx.. Bill
What are you doing for an air filter? I just got mine HC-A01 and there is no air filter in that big black end-cap assembly. It has the small white foam, but the air flows freely straight down the tube with no requirement to go through a filter. Its also a large external tube and big plastic thing hanging out the side (stock). I need something cleaner and simpler than that. I could just have it draw air in from within the case. The case has so much venting to it. Maybe that's the clutch move?? Then the air inside there would be pre-heated a bit too from the heat tubing. Obviously its just for the intake so it wouldn't expose me to any CO poisoning. What do you think?
How did you remove the filter from the rotopax mouth
And what did you replace in the rotopax? I noticed a metal ring around the mouth. I bought a brass pickup tube and just used the same cap but will probably re enforce with another washer to sandwich the connection better🤙
Did you remove the pour spout from the diesel can when you ran the fuel pick up line? Thanks
That’s what I am wondering to
Was thinking about doing this soon. You have to remove the stand pipe every time you refill the Rotopax though, don't you? Doesn't that drip fuel everywhere? Thinking of adding a separate hole in it for the stand pipe...
So I just ordered this unit based off the last video. But now you said that the entire heating unit crapped out on you? So what should I look out for in my unit when I get it?
It can happen with any mass produced part. You’ll want to start the unit and run it for a while. The fan should sound smooth, no grinding etc. I’m sure you’ll be fine.
That tank has got no vent. I don't see how can that function unless you unscrew the cap a little every time you use it.
Curious about this as well.
I tried that fuel pickup you have linked but repeatedly got an E-8 code. I never saw any fuel pass through the filter and pump section in the hose. Installed the stock botten fuel pickup, messy to install having had diesel already in the tank and pouring it back into my fuel can. Fuel began to pass through and then I got got an E-5 code a number if times. This time, I found the aftermarket end hose vent cap was too restrictive. Replacing it with the freer flowing stock vent end cap eleviated that code problem.
So did you mount it??? I want to know!!!!
So I've attempted to copy your fuel tank setup but I've come across two issues. One, cutting the stand pipe so that I do not clamp the hole permanently closed. Two, the standpipe connection to your tank, the red cap, is that custom or how did you alter the one that came with the RotoPax? Thanks.
do you have a follow up video of how you mounted to your truck?
Have you extended the cord to the control box so you can place it in your tent, and if so how did you do it
Where can I get the metal part/gasket that you have under the cap at (4:53)? I just got the heater and want to do the Rotopax tank mod. Thank you.
Would like to know as well
Check out Ai13 nozzles. Specifically their “shipping spacer”. Just found it myself after getting my rotopax in and noticing they changed them so the old replacement nozzles didn’t work. This adapter will fix it.
Also what are you using to power your heater while camping?
You have links for the "hard" fuel line, rubber fuel coupler, and the hose rings you used?
Hey man, I’m doing this build but wondering about what is best for a fuel can? I’m not sure I have room to store both the heater and the can mounted on each other. Is there a better solution you’ve found or advice for allowing the fuel tank and heater case to be separate? Also with the Rotopax can, do you have a breather hole or do you just open the cap a bit? You don’t want suction preventing the fuel being pumped
the cap of the rotopax allows some breathing. Its up to you what fits best for you on what fuel can to use. On the lowest setting the stock tank it comes with does well.
What's the metal insert in the spout that you're using (with the threads)? I'd love to get some of those.
I picked one up but it keeps surging my bluetti 70s every while using the Iceco cable didn’t do have their fridge. Seriously thinking about moving to jackery because of this issue. Do you have any advice?
I love my EcoFlow battery
Did you used to have a website where you sold these conversions? I know I found them online a year or so ago but I can’t seem to find the website anymore.
I bet the waterport bed mount would work great
What size exhaust extension pipe do I need
Question about your small air intake tube inside the box. Did you replace yours? Mine came with a tan one that looks and feels like cardboard. Did yours come the same way?
I trimmed mine really short and just slide it on before turning it on
sorry I’m a little confused. Are you referring to the the air intake hose (the black one inside the box that comes from the bottom of the heater next to the wrapped exhaust tube and connects to the hole next to the fuel line connection). Just trying to get clarification because mine is tan and feels like cardboard so I’m wondering if I am supposed to pull that out and replace it with the black one that came loose in the box with the other parts.
Love the build. Do u have link to yellow diesel box? Thx
amazon and most offroad stores like 4WP and ORW carry them
With the 2 gallon rotopax what is the increased run time with this tank?
What time of glue can I use to glue the face where the exhaust is because it cracked and some pieces broke off but most of the face is intact but I want to fix it.
I am mirroring your build, I purchased the ecoflow delta 2 and the hcalory, I want to see the mount!
Im ordering the parts for it tomorrow! Should be able to work on it next week and get the vid up.
@@NemesisDigitalMedia My new Delta 2 only has a cigarette charger of 12.6v 126W max, I'm new at electrical stuff so this apparently isn't enough to keep the Hcalory on while it's charging. What is the Max wattage on your Jackary's car charger?
have you tried the webasto fuel pump protective case to reduce pump noise?
Wish I’d have seen this sooner.
Just got my heater all set up and I’m powering it with my EcoFlow delta max. The heater keeps tripping the 12v outlet on my EcoFlow. Did you have this issue or have any idea what might be causing this? The heater will begin to run and after about 5 minutes the fan will kick up on the heater and then the EcoFlow outlet turns off
Known issue with the 12v outlet. Mine no longer consistently works with systems that have a low voltage shutoff. The engineers couldn't figure things out and suggested I send it back in for a refurb. I passed as my battery pack is very strong.
@@originaloffical to fix this issue I bought a AC to DC converter and plugged it into my AC outlets on my EcoFlow delta max and it works like a charm
Is The fuel tank vented?
Nice! What size fuel line does it take for that hard hose?
hey bud where did u get the fuel line at can u send us a link please
Keep it up good job
The idea of the airflow is not totally correct. You could put a 10" intake on it and the flow won't change. The amount of flow (in cfm) is governed by the amount of flow of the most restricted point. Putting a massive diameter cold air intake on a vehicle makes no sense (and no improvement) due to the size of the throat on the throttle body, intake runners, and valve size.
Eventhough it has a 3" intake and exhaust, it won't flow the same as a 3" pipe because the air still is being forced thru the aluminum fins of the heat exchanger, further restricting airflow.
Sweet build though. As mentioned by another, the fuel filter should have at least a 30-40° angle. I had one of these and was surprised to see that from the factory it was horizontal. That is super bad for reasons mentioned by another.
Are you running the silencer straight out of the box?
How loud is the pump when in the case? Some of these have been sooo annoying. I’m not sure I notice it with yours
I dont really notice it when sleeping.
So not to be used in the rain or snow? Doesn't seem weatherproof.
Thanks
Vevor swap was 3kw or 5kw?
how do you vent the tank
Which power cord are you upgrading to?
just updated the description!
Thanks!
Do u have link to red gasket? Thx!
came with the rotopax
Is that a 2 gal tank?
Take a drink everytime this guy says roto-pax 🥴
If you want a full-on education about these diesel heaters, check out John McK 47. He has EVERYTHING you need to know about the proper set-up. He even does bench tests and keeps records of his data!
Great looking mods, I am changing a few things in my Hcalory. Is that 3" ducting hose working out with the 200 degree heat? I like the price point but want to make sure it is as safe as possible. All the reviews I have read are all over the map, some say garbage, others think its fine. No melting? 🙂
Can’t find these in stock anywhere :(
What's the point of having a heater mounted in a plastic box if it's still not waterproof? I don't see any advantage over a standard metal Vevor all in one unit. It's actually worse as it takes more room in a rig. I bought all in one Vevor a month ago, did some basic mods, installed it on a tire step and ran some tests. Seems to be ok, and I'm not sure if it makes sense to make it more watertight. I'm not going to run in in the ocean or a lake lol. You still need to store the hoses and the muffler outside the box, and do some basic assembly every time you use it. Not being negative, just trying to understand the trend of everyone trying to put a heater in a box :) Is it only to look more cool and "fancy overlandy"? :D
Hate to say but youre wrong. I store all the parts inside the box, and Ive had it out in the rain and had no water intrusion.
@@NemesisDigitalMedia OK, but opening the case with fuel tank installed on the door seems to be a bit cumbersome. Unless you pull it every time but this would add another step to the setup. I don't know, I like the clean look of a diesel heater installed in the box and I almost pulled the trigger, but I'm still not sure if it's worth it from the functional standpoint :)
@@vwlukas cumbersome? You don’t even have the setup. It takes 3 seconds to open it and get the parts out and close. If I wanted to fully service the box it takes 15 seconds to pull the tank off.
@@NemesisDigitalMedia is it easy to open even with 2 gallons of diesel in a tank and no access to the bench? Hcalory sells empty cases for about $80 but I think they come without the metal bracket that allows to mount the heater which is kinda a bummer.
@edit: oh, wait, somehow I was fully convinced that the gas can is attached to the box door which obviously is not the case lol🤣
@@vwlukas agree. Looks like the tank should have been mounted on the other side of the box. There would then be no reason to remove the tank before opening the door.
I live in the USA we go by gallon
I didn't sew the tank in your amazon links
Hey I've found decent moto 1"in/25mm air filter is apparently a big deal for the intake line. 25mm all screen air filter. That black thing doesn't do anything to silence or filter air. John Mk tested it out.
Mount your fuel pump in a vertical position, with the inlet at the bottom.
You wouldn’t want the pump to be vertical
45 deg is the recommended angle
@@Dirt-Diggler yep! If you look at my pump I did bend the bracket a bit to give it some angle. I could probably bend it a little more, but its been running great for around 80 hours of usage so far.
How does this do in the weather/rain? Think it’s weather proof enough for Ski Resort camping? I’m about to buy one and set it up under my truck camper.
@@vin9976 the actual heater inside the box is ment/ designed to be fitted under a vehicle so are pretty weather proof BUT on the cheaper heaters personally i would spray the ecu motherboard with conformal coating and add some Vaseline to the wiring plugs to be extra sure 👍
So you basicly have a 200 dollar box since you swapped every thing out. Not good...
hvy dont staart and burnin prossess
You are not going to demonstrate it working?
13:29 THATS SAD
14:17 THATS SAD