Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the Link for Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is the link to the Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan Here is the link to the Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH Here is the Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Here is a link to the JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
You are going to the HVAC heaven bro. Thanks for teaching us better than the local community college. The temperature is perfect there. I'm sure you'll like it.
I’m really glad that you’re not shy about overlapping information that you have previously covered. First, because that’s the way people actually learn in apprenticeship, and you know that, and that’s why you’re such a good instructor. Second, because each time you cover it you add some additional nuance and say things a bit differently, which helps the mind re-approach the information from a fresh direction. Thanks.
Hello to the viewers. I dont know the OP at all. Let me say this, this guy is providing real value in these videos. The least we can do is click one of his amazon links. Even if you dont buy the product / tool that the link goes to, he will get a small commission from anything you buy on amazon for a short period of time until your cookie times out in amazon. This does not cost you any money at all even as this guy gets paid a little. His videos are excellent IMO and i have already bought several items through his affiliate link. Step up and do the right thing.
Thanks Craig. Never forgot this lesson. Can't tell you how many time P/T relationships have helped me understand what's going on with even non-HVAC systems in industry.
Great video. This is good, need-to-know, information for all new techs. I would also like to add that if you've allowed sufficient time for the gas to equilibrate and reach saturation temperature, and you find that none of your numbers seem to make any sense, you may have a system with mixed refrigerants in it. This is why I always ask the customer if someone else has looked at the job before me. I've had more than enough trouble with home owners buying "freon" from auto-zone, and jury-rigging a "hose" to get it into their condensing unit. If someone has put R134a automotive refrigerant (especially the junk with "leak-proofing and "tracking dye" in it) into an R410a or R22 system, there is nothing you can do but recover everything (being sure to put it into your special recovery bottle that you keep in the truck just for "mixed refrigerants"), do a complete vacuum test, and recharge with the required factory charge of the correct refrigerant. If you have any suspicions at all about mixed refrigerants, DO NOT try to correct the problem by adding more of the proper refrigerant...it won't work.
This video is a life saver. I build industrial Chiller modules so I have some knowledge on AC units, but I'm not a service tech for residential units haha. Thank you!!
Awesome video! I had a refrigeration company from craigslist took a look at my walk in refrigerator's condensing unit because it was bubbling in the site glass. 2 techs show up. By deciphering my compressor code, they both concluded that it was an R12 compressor. Here is the funny part. Both techs were arguing about which refrigerant to use. There were no indentifying labels anywhere. One tech wants to use r134a while the other said he's going to use "hot-shot" as an upgrade, adding $150 to my bill. They don't have a refrigerant identifying tool. I asked them what's the cheapest way they can do it. They said they can top off with hydrocarbon12a/152a. Really? They said hydrocarbon is a bigger molecule and will stay in the system longer versus the 134a, but there's a catch. They wont write me a receipt if I chose the latter. My question is: which would you use (hydrocarbon or r134a) to top off just to have the machine work for another month or 2, so that I have more time saving up for a new system. Ofcourse no one is supposed to mix refrigerant, that I totally understand. But installing r134a to top off a system when you don't know if r12 was initially in the system kind of defeat this. Thanks in advance for your answer.
The best thing to do is to recover the existing charge, vacuum and weigh in a new R-12 retrofit refrigerant. We don't mix refrigerants. If they want to use R-134A then they would need to cut out the compressor to drain the oil and replace it with POE, otherwise the compressor may burn out because R-134A won't carry the mineral oil well, thanks!
This is such a useful video! I have a recovery jug in almost certain has a bunch of good r22 in it but it's not labeled! Now I can check with decent certainty! Thank you for this!
my only question is how can you tell what refrigerant the system runs on when it is "low" on refrigerant. After taking HVACR classes. They never mentioned this, nor did I ever ask because I didn't think I would come across this problem. But this problem is extremely common where I work. Our senior who works here with his EPA universal also doesn't know how to tell other than him using his memory (he's been here for 14 years). This is an apartment complex we work at. If neither of us can tell what the system uses. We usually end up replacing the whole system. We also understand that is usually the best case since the system shouldn't be going low anyways and 99% of these that we replace with this issue are more than 10 years old. Some 15+ years even. So while low on refrigerant or completely empty from a faulty/worn valve core which we replace, how can you know what refrigerant they use without any labeling? All labeling has withered away and has been erased by the sun. All condensers are on the flat roof of our buildings.
Cool tips! Very helpful! And how to determine if system charged with mixed refrigerants? What I have to see to determine it? What it can cause? Thank you so much!)
Thanks Tapch! Leo put a great comment out on that in the comment section. The sat temp when off may be higher or lower than the refrigerant that is supposed to be in there depending upon the refrigerant that they added. You will notice roughly the same thing as when the system has noncondensables in it most of the time unless there is 134a added. You may think that the system is very low on refrigerant in that case because the sat temp is low when off but when you are running it, and adding refrigerant, the mix does not act like it normally does with superheat decreasing and subcooling increasing. You would just stop there and recover into your mixed refrigerants recovery tank. Thanks Tapch MC!
Awesome video! I have a question though. How about if there is no indication on the unit that let's you know how many pounds of R-22 to put in. Is there any way to tell how little is too little or how much is too much?
You won't know how much refrigerant is supposed to be in the system. You are going to have to guess the weight. Just weigh in less than you think and then start the unit up and add as needed using superheat or subcooling, thanks
Could you check the units in the fall, to determine the refrigerant in the system? I am sure that all the units on my rental houses are 410A, but just to make sure. All the systems are running well, now. But just to check.
can't really go with a labeled txv,I came across 3 units in 2 weeks,r22 on the condenser label with r410a on the txv's and the units actually had r22 in them
That is not good, Those txv's would need to be changed out unless they were electronic ones. How was your subcooling, hunting, and delta T? Thanks Tipoblanco! That is a shame someone did that!
Thank you for the video ! But wait !!! Don’t you have to shut off the service valves? Let’s Say your outdoor temp is 100 and your indoor temperature (inside the air handler) is 80. With valves opened you cannot go by just your outdoor temp because there would be a 20F difference within the same sealed system. It’s like heating up that tank to 100F on top and freezing the bottom to 32F. (I am exaggerating just for sake of argument) you would have a mixture of temperatures within one container. I wonder what was the indoor temperature in this house?. Maybe it was close enough to outdoor temp that it didn’t affect your result. But it is still important to at least me mind Full of it. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone.....
Yes very expensive and not many techs carry that in their service truck. I just wanted to go over the content that is in the epa 608 test for figuring out what refrigerant is in there, thanks Diego!
Hamid, my email is info@acservicetech.com I don't see any email and it looks like you purchased the ebook a while ago. Please email me and I would love to answer any questions you have, thanks!
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Here is the Link for Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the link to the Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Here is the link to the Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
Here is the Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze
Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l
Here is the JB Quick Connect Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Here is a link to the JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8
Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
You are going to the HVAC heaven bro. Thanks for teaching us better than the local community college. The temperature is perfect there. I'm sure you'll like it.
I’m really glad that you’re not shy about overlapping information that you have previously covered. First, because that’s the way people actually learn in apprenticeship, and you know that, and that’s why you’re such a good instructor. Second, because each time you cover it you add some additional nuance and say things a bit differently, which helps the mind re-approach the information from a fresh direction. Thanks.
Very nice explanation! You are hitting all the aspects that are important to me! Great to hear that it is coming across that way! Thanks
Hello to the viewers. I dont know the OP at all. Let me say this, this guy is providing real value in these videos. The least we can do is click one of his amazon links. Even if you dont buy the product / tool that the link goes to, he will get a small commission from anything you buy on amazon for a short period of time until your cookie times out in amazon. This does not cost you any money at all even as this guy gets paid a little. His videos are excellent IMO and i have already bought several items through his affiliate link. Step up and do the right thing.
Thank you very much Bob! I really appreciate your support! It means a lot!
Spending another day with my notepad watching your video. Thank you for the video.
Nice, thanks MC!
Thank you very much Bill Gringo!
Thanks Craig. Never forgot this lesson. Can't tell you how many time P/T relationships have helped me understand what's going on with even non-HVAC systems in industry.
Thanks Jack!
Great video. This is good, need-to-know, information for all new techs. I would also like to add that if you've allowed sufficient time for the gas to equilibrate and reach saturation temperature, and you find that none of your numbers seem to make any sense, you may have a system with mixed refrigerants in it. This is why I always ask the customer if someone else has looked at the job before me. I've had more than enough trouble with home owners buying "freon" from auto-zone, and jury-rigging a "hose" to get it into their condensing unit. If someone has put R134a automotive refrigerant (especially the junk with "leak-proofing and "tracking dye" in it) into an R410a or R22 system, there is nothing you can do but recover everything (being sure to put it into your special recovery bottle that you keep in the truck just for "mixed refrigerants"), do a complete vacuum test, and recharge with the required factory charge of the correct refrigerant. If you have any suspicions at all about mixed refrigerants, DO NOT try to correct the problem by adding more of the proper refrigerant...it won't work.
Perfect statements Leo, thanks!
This video is a life saver. I build industrial Chiller modules so I have some knowledge on AC units, but I'm not a service tech for residential units haha. Thank you!!
I really enjoy the way you take time to describe how to check each thing. Thank you so much for that. Stay Blessed.
Thank you very much Keith! I appreciate it!
Awesome video!
I had a refrigeration company from craigslist took a look at my walk in refrigerator's condensing unit because it was bubbling in the site glass. 2 techs show up. By deciphering my compressor code, they both concluded that it was an R12 compressor. Here is the funny part. Both techs were arguing about which refrigerant to use. There were no indentifying labels anywhere. One tech wants to use r134a while the other said he's going to use "hot-shot" as an upgrade, adding $150 to my bill. They don't have a refrigerant identifying tool. I asked them what's the cheapest way they can do it. They said they can top off with hydrocarbon12a/152a. Really? They said hydrocarbon is a bigger molecule and will stay in the system longer versus the 134a, but there's a catch. They wont write me a receipt if I chose the latter.
My question is: which would you use (hydrocarbon or r134a) to top off just to have the machine work for another month or 2, so that I have more time saving up for a new system. Ofcourse no one is supposed to mix refrigerant, that I totally understand. But installing r134a to top off a system when you don't know if r12 was initially in the system kind of defeat this. Thanks in advance for your answer.
The best thing to do is to recover the existing charge, vacuum and weigh in a new R-12 retrofit refrigerant. We don't mix refrigerants. If they want to use R-134A then they would need to cut out the compressor to drain the oil and replace it with POE, otherwise the compressor may burn out because R-134A won't carry the mineral oil well, thanks!
This is such a useful video! I have a recovery jug in almost certain has a bunch of good r22 in it but it's not labeled! Now I can check with decent certainty! Thank you for this!
Thank you for that excellent Knowledge you've shared.
Thank you Truth Will Reveal!
Another important information that will help me out to troubleshoot
Another Excellent described learning video.
Thanks JD!
I cried it was so good.
HA ha nice Boris, thanks!
YOU ARE A BLESSING TO WORLD
Thanks another useful video
Thanks Chen Chris!
Great video thank you.
Thanks Ron!
Here’s where I get my Sunday education
Thanks Mason, I appreciate the comment!
👏 Bravo brotha... Always a great video.....
Thanks AC!
my only question is how can you tell what refrigerant the system runs on when it is "low" on refrigerant.
After taking HVACR classes. They never mentioned this, nor did I ever ask because I didn't think I would come across this problem. But this problem is extremely common where I work. Our senior who works here with his EPA universal also doesn't know how to tell other than him using his memory (he's been here for 14 years). This is an apartment complex we work at. If neither of us can tell what the system uses. We usually end up replacing the whole system.
We also understand that is usually the best case since the system shouldn't be going low anyways and 99% of these that we replace with this issue are more than 10 years old. Some 15+ years even.
So while low on refrigerant or completely empty from a faulty/worn valve core which we replace, how can you know what refrigerant they use without any labeling?
All labeling has withered away and has been erased by the sun. All condensers are on the flat roof of our buildings.
Cool tips! Very helpful! And how to determine if system charged with mixed refrigerants? What I have to see to determine it? What it can cause? Thank you so much!)
Thanks Tapch! Leo put a great comment out on that in the comment section. The sat temp when off may be higher or lower than the refrigerant that is supposed to be in there depending upon the refrigerant that they added. You will notice roughly the same thing as when the system has noncondensables in it most of the time unless there is 134a added. You may think that the system is very low on refrigerant in that case because the sat temp is low when off but when you are running it, and adding refrigerant, the mix does not act like it normally does with superheat decreasing and subcooling increasing. You would just stop there and recover into your mixed refrigerants recovery tank. Thanks Tapch MC!
Thank you for the detailed explanation. Thank you Leo.
Awesome video! I have a question though. How about if there is no indication on the unit that let's you know how many pounds of R-22 to put in. Is there any way to tell how little is too little or how much is too much?
You won't know how much refrigerant is supposed to be in the system. You are going to have to guess the weight. Just weigh in less than you think and then start the unit up and add as needed using superheat or subcooling, thanks
Thank You
This is how most HVAC wholesale suppliers who accept used refrigerant test recovery tanks to determine what refrigerant is in the recovery tanks.
Thanks coolmandude1000!
Could you check the units in the fall, to determine the refrigerant in the system? I am sure that all the units on my rental houses are 410A, but just to make sure. All the systems are running well, now. But just to check.
You could check what type of refrigerant it is in any temp. To check the charge, you would wait until a 70 degree day though, thanks Todd!
My outlet does not have any paper on the,so can't know if R22 or R 410A
can't really go with a labeled txv,I came across 3 units in 2 weeks,r22 on the condenser label with r410a on the txv's and the units actually had r22 in them
That is not good, Those txv's would need to be changed out unless they were electronic ones. How was your subcooling, hunting, and delta T? Thanks Tipoblanco! That is a shame someone did that!
probably shady business practice, as in done on purpose so the compressor burns out and they end up replacing condenser soon ;)
Thank you for the video ! But wait !!! Don’t you have to shut off the service valves? Let’s Say your outdoor temp is 100 and your indoor temperature (inside the air handler) is 80. With valves opened you cannot go by just your outdoor temp because there would be a 20F difference within the same sealed system. It’s like heating up that tank to 100F on top and freezing the bottom to 32F. (I am exaggerating just for sake of argument) you would have a mixture of temperatures within one container. I wonder what was the indoor temperature in this house?. Maybe it was close enough to outdoor temp that it didn’t affect your result. But it is still important to at least me mind Full of it. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone.....
It was close in temp during the video but the higher temp area would still exert a higher pressure on the whole system at equalization, thanks!
There is a 4,000 thousand dollar machine that I’ve seen yellow jacket sell to identify which refrigerant you are dealing with.
Yes very expensive and not many techs carry that in their service truck. I just wanted to go over the content that is in the epa 608 test for figuring out what refrigerant is in there, thanks Diego!
Has anyone here ever twinned some Lennox split systems
Are you talking two systems that are the exact same size or are you taking just two different systems?
AC Service Tech LLC two systems exactly the same
Arfortenay
Don't say that. Retrofit help.
Hey Craig I sent you an email but no answer regarding to my purchase about the book thanks
Hamid, my email is info@acservicetech.com I don't see any email and it looks like you purchased the ebook a while ago. Please email me and I would love to answer any questions you have, thanks!
valuable information, thank you ...
Thanks