What brand of aftermarket crankshaft do you plan to run? 🏎 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy141 ✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery141
One thing I would add is that using a billet crank for really demanding applications should be machined from vacuum melted and preferably re-melted material. The re-melting process (VAR or ESR) ensure fracture toughness in the tangential direction almost as high (@ 90%) as in the longitudinal direction. As such it would actually be better than even forged cranks made of standard wrought material. Great video BTW, love the content.
I really want to build a JZ powered car with the BC lightweight 3.0 crankshaft. I believe it's something like 13 lbs lighter than stock, which I saw helps the mid range torque immensely.
Top Russian scientists have recently experimented with carbon fibre con rods and ball bearing cranks . The results of their experiments along with many others can be found on YT - garage 54 . 😂
I think my k1 4340 ls7 forged crankshaft will survive my NA street build. First 600 miles with it has been good. I think it was worth the 300 dollars to buy it secondhand. Obviously had to buy differnet rods and pistons since I went from 3.622 to 4 inch stroke but to me its the way to go for an engine that wont ever see 6k rpm that lives on the street.
perfect webinaire again :) its possible for a next vidéo to talk arround the flywheel please ? benefits and disavantage ? :) thx so much for your brillant work and sharing
Volvo changed to a mid crank thrust bearing mid 80's, saw the issues with crank walk on their turbo engines, said bugger that (in their best Swedish) and went back to a full circle main thrust bearing on #5.
Whilst the forging was molten, it's not molten during processing, hence a grain is produced, casting doesn't have a grain because it's phase changed when it's molten. Billet items also only have a grain in the direction it was formed into a billet in the first instance.
Depends who is asking the question and what they want to know in the first place I guess 😂 What do you have planned next to get down into the 8's with your Barra? - Taz.
@@hpa101 not my barra but my cylinder head and intake manifold on one is already in the 8’s Taz, 8.42 @ 172mph. You can check it out from Drag Challenge earlier this year, look for the Green Barra powered Torry 👍 would you like a link? The major thing in my opinion your overlooking here is the load per cylinder, your 1100hp 4 cylinder has 5 main caps, the 1100hp Barra has 6 cylinders and 7 main caps, less load applied by each cylinder and also supported by more main caps.
@@hpa101 also if the Torry was able to put the power down at 172mph would translate to a high 7 second pass, the suspension is being rebuilt hopefully for next year.
meh.. up to 2x the stock power you are just fine with a cast crank. remember, back in the old days they had no wierdboyz and brainboyz. just mekboyz. things where well over engineered, none was able to figure out how to produce them just barely sufficiently strong. unlike nowdays. and that is why you can grab a junkyard cast iron engine, get rid of the rust, rebuild, and make an easy 500 hp virtually out of any older v8 engines with litte efforth. allso we must mention the good old om606 that is clean deal with stock internals to 600 hp. the NA version did some 80 or so hp in stock form, btw. cast material is naturaly not strong. but you should not say those are to be forgotten.
Why do you knife-edge the outter edge of the crank and not the leading edge. I once did a Datsun 1200 crank for a mini-sprint, took the weights off COMPLETELY. Shit did that thing BUZZ. NZ
What brand of aftermarket crankshaft do you plan to run?
🏎 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy141
✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery141
Bmw m50b25 do really well at 800-1000hp with a cast crankshaft
Really, they get that high with the stock crank?
@@rafaellastracom6411 all the time in Europe
One thing I would add is that using a billet crank for really demanding applications should be machined from vacuum melted and preferably re-melted material. The re-melting process (VAR or ESR) ensure fracture toughness in the tangential direction almost as high (@ 90%) as in the longitudinal direction. As such it would actually be better than even forged cranks made of standard wrought material. Great video BTW, love the content.
Always a great production. 👍
Much appreciated! Cheers for the support - Taz.
we ran cvh ford turbo on stock cranks to 9k and 380 ps no worries ztec 2.0 turbo 550ps 8000rpm no problem ?
Awesome videos as always. Thank y’all!
Our pleasure!
Always super informative content guys! Could listen to this kinda stuff for hours (HPA Podcast) :)
Read some notes the other day, Repco used stock cast cranks in Repco F5 Holden engines way back, they just knew how long they would last.
I really want to build a JZ powered car with the BC lightweight 3.0 crankshaft. I believe it's something like 13 lbs lighter than stock, which I saw helps the mid range torque immensely.
Obviously you know nothing about ‘moment of inertia’ 🙄
Top Russian scientists have recently experimented with carbon fibre con rods and ball bearing cranks .
The results of their experiments along with many others can be found on YT - garage 54 . 😂
haha they are really entertaining dudes! - Taz.
I think my k1 4340 ls7 forged crankshaft will survive my NA street build. First 600 miles with it has been good. I think it was worth the 300 dollars to buy it secondhand. Obviously had to buy differnet rods and pistons since I went from 3.622 to 4 inch stroke but to me its the way to go for an engine that wont ever see 6k rpm that lives on the street.
Great content !!!
perfect webinaire again :) its possible for a next vidéo to talk arround the flywheel please ? benefits and disavantage ? :) thx so much for your brillant work and sharing
Volvo changed to a mid crank thrust bearing mid 80's, saw the issues with crank walk on their turbo engines, said bugger that (in their best Swedish) and went back to a full circle main thrust bearing on #5.
If the chemical hardening process bends the crankshaft out of spec, how is it used in the original manufacturing?
Aren't LS crankshafts cast from the factory?
I think is depends. Lota ls
LS engines are all crap, that is why.
thing I never understood about cast grain structure compared to forged or billet is that forged & billet were both molten at some point.
Whilst the forging was molten, it's not molten during processing, hence a grain is produced, casting doesn't have a grain because it's phase changed when it's molten. Billet items also only have a grain in the direction it was formed into a billet in the first instance.
many stock cast crank Barra's out there making 1000hp
Peak HP is only one data point that on its own doesn't mean a whole lot - Taz.
@@hpa101 plenty of cast crank barras running 9’s or better then, is that a more appropriate answer?
Depends who is asking the question and what they want to know in the first place I guess 😂
What do you have planned next to get down into the 8's with your Barra? - Taz.
@@hpa101 not my barra but my cylinder head and intake manifold on one is already in the 8’s Taz, 8.42 @ 172mph. You can check it out from Drag Challenge earlier this year, look for the Green Barra powered Torry 👍 would you like a link?
The major thing in my opinion your overlooking here is the load per cylinder, your 1100hp 4 cylinder has 5 main caps, the 1100hp Barra has 6 cylinders and 7 main caps, less load applied by each cylinder and also supported by more main caps.
@@hpa101 also if the Torry was able to put the power down at 172mph would translate to a high 7 second pass, the suspension is being rebuilt hopefully for next year.
meh.. up to 2x the stock power you are just fine with a cast crank. remember, back in the old days they had no wierdboyz and brainboyz. just mekboyz. things where well over engineered, none was able to figure out how to produce them just barely sufficiently strong. unlike nowdays. and that is why you can grab a junkyard cast iron engine, get rid of the rust, rebuild, and make an easy 500 hp virtually out of any older v8 engines with litte efforth. allso we must mention the good old om606 that is clean deal with stock internals to 600 hp. the NA version did some 80 or so hp in stock form, btw. cast material is naturaly not strong. but you should not say those are to be forgotten.
Why do you knife-edge the outter edge of the crank and not the leading edge. I once did a Datsun 1200 crank for a mini-sprint, took the weights off COMPLETELY. Shit did that thing BUZZ. NZ