GE Dishwasher Dead Display Diagnosis (GE Dishwasher Has No Lights)
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2021
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Superb Diagnostic test, worked like a charm, put a voltmeter between the 1st and 4th points shown above and it read 1.2 VAC, so it was bad, I replaced it and it started right back up. Many thanks and God Bless
Steve thanks so much!! I received this dishwasher free from a friend and said I could keep it but the interface was dead. I watched your video and fixed it ( thanks to you) and a parts store.
My model had an easier way to remove the door (disconnected the pulleys from the spring) and the door face just slipped off with a slight push.
Now I’m a happy guy washing dishes. Thanks again!
What a great video. I have the same dishwasher and followed your instructions to the tee. Can't tell you how grateful I am. You are awesome
Ended up changing out the main board (successfully) after using this diagnosis video. Thank you very much for posting. UA-cam GOLD!
Another happy customer. We checked and found 14 V at the bottom. And replaced the upper board and it works now. The one thing we found out that doesn’t appear to be covered here is that the new boards have jumpers that need to be set to match your model number.
Thank you for the video it was extremely helpful.
What a clear and well-made video! Just the information I needed. Thanks.
Same!
I want to tell you thank you so much! I've been hand washing for my family for like 3 months, thinking I need to spend 600 dollars I don't have. You're such a help! $106 user interface, and I'll have properly working unit.
Ha day 2 or 3 my wife said this this washing dishes shit is “FOR THE BIRDS” what ever that means. Figure this shit out…..
We're going to have to follow this process..dang, dang, dang! Sooo glad you have this all figured out and show the solution so well. I think this could all have been avoided by plugging the dishwasher into a surge protector at installation. We once lost another expensive appliance by failing to protect it from a power surge.
HUGE thanks!!! Followed this video, had 14 volts at pin 2 & 5. Went to the next video explaining how to take door off and apart to get to UI. Was lucky and found new UI on ebay.
Again, big thanks, our dishwasher is now up and running.
These two videos are exactly what you need to save yourself a boat load of money.
This did the trick for me. Bad control board going on and off at random times during the day. Replaced the board and all is well. Thanks.
Followed this. Replaced my control board. It comes new with jumpers that need to be set to match your model number. Made those changes and put it together. Handwashing is over! Thanks for the video.
I should add that with my model there were 2 torx screws on each side of the door that needed to be removed to lift the door panel off.
Thank you for the walkthrough. Big help. Thankfully mine just had a loose connector and it fired up again when I checked all the wiring couplers. No replacement parts needed today!
I did the same damn thing! I've been washing dishes by hand for at least a month now thinking it would be a big ordeal even after finding this video. So after finally getting to the store and getting a multimeter I climbed down there to check for power. Good power to the unit so I disconnected the white panel socket and reconnected it. This fixed the problem! I was surprised. Duh! Always check for loose connections before assuming the worst. Luckily this time no repair needed :-). Thanks to this good video for showing me what I needed to do!
Great video. This problem has been a pain for years now. Always wanted to know how to isolate between the main board or user interface. Thank you so much!!
Glad I could help!h
Thank you for the video. After replacing my control board, the dishwasher would work fine for a day, then I would have to unplug the power connection for a few seconds and plug it back in for the display to turn on. That workaround stopped working after a few weeks, so I watched this video. I did not find voltage on the connector pins that lead to the display (bottom left connector), but I knew the control board had to be good. The issue ended up being the connector on the top of the control board, on the left. The WIRES CAME LOOSE! CHECK YOUR CONNECTORS! Thanks again!
Unplug the wire harness and plug back in did the trick for me. Worth a quick try before getting out the multimeter
Thank you so much! I have been running into this issue and could not find a pinout to check the DC voltage from the machine control. Thanks again for showing us the pins to check.
You're welcome!
Thank you so much for this video. My GE adora dishwasher was going out and I was able to get away with several more washes after disconnecting the harness to the UI board but then it just died on me. I had close to 120V at the main power harness but only 3V at pins 2 and 5 on the main board. Just got the main board today and swapped them out. Now the dishwasher appears to be functioning as normal. Big thanks to you sir!
For everyone reading: make sure you are testing for DC 14V off the control board.
thanks. I was checking a.c. which showed 0 volts. DC showed 14 volts
Awesome Diagnosis video thank you have a wonderful weekend
I had 14 volts all the way up to the user interface, replaced the UI, and still had nothing. I learned there is a function on GE dishwashers using the Cycle Select and Start buttons that allows for a unit reset. I did this and now the dishwasher works. It's definitely worth a try and saves a lot of hassle.
I just got a used get dishwasher and power is making it all the way into the control board and door switch seems to work but nothing lights up or works. What exactly did you do with the cycle select?
@@DL-ij7tf Hold the Select Cycle button and the Start button down for five seconds. It should light up. If it doesn't, it's probably the UI. If it does light up, press the Select Cycle button for five seconds. The lock button light should come on. Hold Select Cycle again for five seconds. Hold the Start button for five seconds. The Start button should start flashing. Then hold the start and select cycle button down for five seconds. After that, it should be back to normal.
@@jaredwanemacher9512 Unfortunately on the dishwasher I have it doesn't have a Cycle Select button, it has 5 dedicated buttons for each Cycle Selection and 5 for Options. I've played around some with the buttons but I'll do a little more. Thank you for the response though, if you have any other ideas I'm all ears haha
@@jaredwanemacher9512 Nevermind, got it working. Took it all apart down to the control board and sequence switches, didn't really find anything, put it back together and it started working. I think it was as simple as some contacts got jostled apart and stuck or something in transit in the back of my truck. Just goes to show that sometimes things seem hopelessly complicated when it's the simplest explanation.
@@DL-ij7tf Thank you for your comment. It inspired me to check the connections instead of ordering the UI panel. Now we're doing a load of dishes and saved buying an unnecessary part. Thanks again!
Thanks for the tips for diagnosing this problem… just finished fixing mine👍
Thank you for this excellent diagnostic! I followed this and tried the reset steps folks added to the comments and turns out it was the UI. I purchased a replacement OEM board and had to set the jumpers (like you show in your UI removal video). The included table was wrong! I have a GDT695 and the table shows "personality #11" which didn't work. So I tried the others until I found one that did. Turns out the personality should be #10, NOT #11 for models GDT695, ugh! Got it to work though and wouldn't have been able to without this clear and concise video, thank you!!
Super useful video. You saved me loads of money! Thanks!
Thank you so much. I was about to get a new one.
Awesome diagnose video have a nice weekend
Great Video: Clear and Concise
Thank you. Very helpful video, fixed my issue
Excellent instructions. thank you
Thanks very much for your great video!
Had solid green LED. No power to pins. Pushed all the connectors in tight and put it back together. It works! LED on board blinks now. It makes a lot of chime sounds randomly through today and night, it sure if that’s normal or not (got it used with the house).
I've had the exact same experience.
Thank you! Very good video and information I needed!
Great video, was very helpful. This dude is awesome.
I had a problem where it would just beep and never work even when the door was closed. Resolved this simply by shutting off its power source, detaching the main control board, re-attaching power and hitting start (nothing happens as it has no power). Shut off power once again and re-attach the main board. It was a shot in the dark, but once I plugged the unit back in, it worked! I almost bought a new board, but it just miraculously worked! Hope this helps someone else!
Same here ..
I cut power from my home Breaker. And trurned it off and on.
Did the trick not sure was it safety feature inside Dishwasher which truns off everything. Display lit up again.
Similar thing happened to Refrigerator both suplied on same circuit breaker.
Thank you !!! This helped 😊
Thanks! Worked for me.
Thanks for this. Minor comment, the coating on the board pins insulates from the multi-meter probes and may give an incorrect reading.
Good video, I checked the 2 & 5 pins for 14v and I get 0 nine times out of ten, but do get 14 eventually; could this still be a faulty board even though I do get a reading once a blue moon? Thanks
I'm surprised you didn't mention HITTING THE RESET FIRST:
PRESS AND HOLD both "START" AND "SELECT CYCLE" BUTTONS FOR 5 SECONDS (lights come on when you lift up)
Press and hold select cycle for 5 seconds... then do it again
Press and hold start for 5 seconds
Press both buttons for 5-10 seconds again
If console does not light up at all, then go to take things apart.
Thanks for this comment, a reset did the trick for me!
This worked for me as well, thank you!
I had to do it a few times, but this worked for me. Thank you!
I have power, everything lights up but it won’t start. I have this exact model.
This did the trick. Thank you for that!
Thank you for this!
Thanks. Too techy for me; guess I need to contact someone to do those tests. Great video!
These GE dishwashers are such trash. We've been through multiple boards and they all fail
Awesome simple video
excellent video.
So I followed this diagnostic protocol and only had 5 vDC on pins 2 and 5, ordered and installed new control panel, but still have a dead display, where do I look next
I don't have a reading from pin 2 to 5. Do you have a main board repair video or suggestion on what to repair on the board?
Ok so mine wasn’t coming on. Opened bottom up, the silver box on my model came out, so pushed it back so it was connected. Still no luck but then pulled out one of the wire harnesses and put it back and viola! Power!
Hi, amateur here! I bought a multimeter by Klein Tools and did exactly as you said. However I’m reading zero. Can I ask what settings you have the multimeter on? I think I’ve got that wrong!
Thank you!
When you check for 14volt on the two pins is the power on? I did it both ways and only read 1. Also, why is there a black jumping to the white wire? Mine is black to black, white to white and green to green.
Question, I have the same model, except for the last digits mj5es. I've replaced the board down below as the light was blinking on it. Still not working. Thinking it's the upper control panel now.
I unplugged the board under the washer and removed it to get serial no’s plugged it back in , now it works again but for how long ?
My breaker keeps tripping when I close the door. After I reset the breaker the power comes on the UI lights up like normal but turns off when I close the door. I checked the control box and green lights keeps blinking until the breaker trips. Any thoughts on what's causing the breaker to trip?
How about using a 12vdc test light, example: 2 lead fuse tester for automotive applications…..? Provided the tester has small enough pointy tips as not to accidentally touch opposing pins to #2 & #5 ( 5 being ground)
What if only the LCD doesn't illuminate? All the other indicator lights and buttons work correctly. Are there different pins to test to know if it's UI or Control board?
I have a similar looking GE (~5 years old, model gdt695sfl5ds) with a different control board (couldn't see 5 pins to test). Wouldn't turn on or respond to any button press. Board has blinking green LED Z301 R306 (no idea what that means). I unplugged the black wire harness that goes up to door that was plugged into underside of control board while unit was plugged in and it woke up the display when I reconnected. Prior to it going dead the unit would randomly wake up every couple hours so I figured based on Google searches the UI board was going? We'll see what happens, maybe just a loose wire?
I followed your instructions and replaced the board because it wasn’t getting anywhere near 14v. I replaced it two times & still doesn’t get 14V, 5 at best. I tested the bottom power harness receptacle and wire connectors harness and read 120v… I don’t know what do next.
You and me both!!!! Please lmk if you figure something out
I am not getting voltage when checking pins 2 & 5 on my bottom control board - when you say 'main board' which board is that? I've already replaced the control board in the bottom - or what they refer to as the "dishwasher configured machine control" and I see a light on the board when I'm powered up, but still not getting lights on my UI. Is there a 3rd board besides the control board in the bottom & the UI board at the top? I'm working on a Model GDT655SSJ2SS and have been combing the online assembly manual and don't see anything named that.
Hello, if I don’t have a voltage meter handy at the moment, does the green flashing light on the control board also indicate that it may be the interface board?
Great thanks
The display stays off where it normally is on as soon as you open or close the Dorr , but after a power interruption it doesn't however it goes on as soon as you press start. Then press in start aging to begin the cycle, instead of doing so the orange display button in front starts blinking and giving a short fault tone and won't start. This happens whenever a power interruption. Fter unplugging for about a half hour resetting the breaker & plugging back in, it sometimes works, but its always a guess how m a ny times I have to do this to "reset it". If it was the board it would never work. It definitely has power, so isn't there a reset button or sequence that I can do to not go through this guessing game?
Same issues with a GE dishwasher that wouldn't power up. So I replaced the board without testing to see if it was the problem, and the unit powered back up after the installation... at first. After a night, we came back out and it won't power on again. Is there a fuse or load protection on the board that could be popping on me?
My dishwasher was making a chime sound every once in a while for the past month then stopped working. Didn't see any error code or blinking display light when i heard the chime. And then the interface just went blank. After I watched your video, I tested the pins as you described. I had 14 volts so I began to put it back together figuring I would watch your video on replacing the interface module. When I plugged back in the wiring harnesses, the dishwasher chimed again! Interface was no longer blank and dishwasher started right up. Not sure if this means that the interface is about to go or just that the connection somehow became loose. But at least now I know where to look and have clean dishes! Not sure if you have an idea what it could be. Thanks for the great, short and to the point video!
Mine had the same symptoms. Intermittent chiming then dead. I replaced the UI board and it is working great now.
@@evan_off_track what was roughly the cost to replace the the board?
I experienced the same random chime and now my display and function is dead. I'm going to try the diagnosis.
Update! Thank God it worked again.
I undid the kick pabel, turned off the appropriate fuse, and then simply unplugged the vertical connector. I then turned on the fuse again and the lights lit up!
@@Spacesuit_Charlie about $140
What if the Green light is on steady, no blinks. Replaced board, have 14vdc, but still no power to top board or controls??
I have a question. When testing the pins for the UI I was getting 30ish volts. Also on my control board there is an illuminated green light that I don't see in your video. Not sure we're to go from here.
Hello nice video. I ordered a new control board and like the old get about 6v from pin 2 and 5. I guess it's possible to get a bad control board?
Perfect video. I thought to check before snatching up the diagram and here it was!
With a link to the repair as well. I was being lazy and it definitely paid off.
Thanks for posting your work. Its appreciated
Thanks for this video. Very easy to understand. However, when I test pins 2 and 5 I am getting between 8 and 9 volts. I just wanted to confrim if that means the board needs replacing. Thanks in advance!
This what I am getting, 9 bolts. Which board did you replace?
I tested mine and also only have around 9 volts. If you have time what was the outcome in your case, I already replaced the main board with what I assume was a new one from a large online seller. TIA
My original symptom: dishwasher would trip the upstairs breaker switch on the panel. Resetting the switch remedied the fault temporarily, but after resetting the breaker switch a couple of times over the next week to do a load of dishes, the dishwasher lost all power. The breaker switch “trick” no longer remedies the fault. Could the breaker switch be faulty? On the bottom of the dishwasher, I removed the black aluminum panel and white insulation to get to the aluminum box covering the two wire nuts on the right side. Had some difficulty trying to put the leads in the wire nuts, but did the best that I could to make contact. First, I had the multimeter on 20 Volts and received a 0.1 nominal reading. Second, I switched to 200 Volts and received a 0.0 Volts reading. I removed both leads to reposition them, to see if I could make better contact, and received same 0.0 Volts reading. I also tried to reset the dishwasher by holding down the respective buttons at the same time, to no avail. Any suggestions?
im in the exact same boat as you.... so frustrating.... not sure what to do
There's 2 different ge dishwasher control boards can you do a videos on that one too
When i put the leads to test for 14 it seems to jump a bit, i see 14 for a second and then nothing. im not moving them so i wonder if there is a bad connection?
So I have a GE dishwasher and I have 14dc at the main board and the ui board is working fine for a few days then just cuts off and after I take it apart and leave it apart for awhile it will come back on when putting it back together?
so if step 1 fails you said its the circuit breaker ... but the outlet works for all my other appliances ..so it cant be the the circuit breaker right?
I've got power going to the display panel and the machine is fully functional except for the display next to the select cycle button. I can't see what cycle I am on. Is it possible that it's just a burnt bulb or something?
Am I correct the 14v is DC? I checked for both and had neither so I ordered a new board and still do not have 14v. I noticed a commit below about a jumper? Any thoughts on what to do now?
So I have power but when I checked my main board, it was bouncing between zero and 11. Now I’m not sure if that’s because I have unsteady hands or does my main board need to be replaced? Any help would be appreciated.
Hey! I have a unique situation in that I have to flip the breaker on and off to get the dishwasher to work. But once it is working it completes the cycle. There’s just clearly something amiss with it. I don’t have a meter like yours to test, but based on this information, are you able to provide any clues on what needs to be replaced? The home was built in 2006, so I don’t necessarily think it’s a problem with the breaker. Thanks!
same thing is happening to ours, can't wait to hear an answer
Great video I had 13 volts bought the interface board 118 bucks still no power
Same here.
Same. I'm going to try the main board for 106 bucks now and pray....
Just a heads up: My control board doesn't look like the one in the video. If your control board is square it's a pn WD21X25730.
I replaced the main panel last June 2023 and it fixed the problem of no power to the controls. We had a power outage at our house and when it came back the dishwasher control panel was out again. I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the main panel or the UI. I tested the 2nd and 5th pin but I'm not getting a consistent reading. It will jump to around 14 volts but it won't stay there. I do see a green light the is lit on the main panel so not sure if that means I'm getting power or not. I did test to make sure we are getting 120 volts and we are good there. Any suggestions?
On the control board before I check the voltage I noticed that there’s a green flashing light any indication what that is
Hey, I tested my main board and saw 4-5 volts. I took a look at the harness and it appears a little blackened/browned. Do you think this type of damage could affect the voltage going to the main board? I don’t know whether to replace the main board, harness, or just do both to be safe. Thanks for the help.
I don’t know what happened. I followed this video to do diagnosis but the machine is working again after I re-plug in the wires for the interface panel.
I have this same dishwasher
It stopped working one day
There’s electricity throughout and if I hold down select cycle and start all of the lights come on and it says 888 and then and noise comes on and a orange light comes on at lock controls
What do you think I should do?
Is there a button sequence to press to reset?
I’ve turned it off from the breaker and back on but still no luck
Please help 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
If the control boards are replaced and it's still not getting power lights, what else might it be? Machine getting power from breaker.
Check wires for continuity
I just replace my board and I have 30v at pins 2-5.... This is a brand new board. LED is not lighted up on the board. Should I stop... and get another new board.... HELP
i own a gdt695ssj5ss that has some kind of intermittent problem i was wondering after watching your video my control board has a rapid flashing led green light on it is this normal or do i need a new control board
My display wont turn on either. But when the washer has power from mains it sounds like the drain pump is on. Any ideas?
randomly beeps and turns self on. Driving me crazy. I tried these steps ( took me a couple of times) but it did clear the problem. When the lights flash at select button, push and hold, then the start button blinked ( press and hold) then both select and start blinked ( press and held both), and done!
I'm not getting 14 when I test 2 and 5 on the board, but the board has a glowing green light. Green light doesn't mean that the boards NOT shot, does it? Appreciate your video.
If I ran into that I would say the main board is bad. The bad thing is, you can’t tell if the UI is bad though. Only way to tell it by checking its in mining power. If it has 14vdc and don’t work you know it is the UI. When it is not getting 14vdc. You don’t know until you fix the supplied voltage issue.
Yes start with the main board. It has a personality too. Make sure you set the personality right to your model.
Hi Kenneth, I also found that I had the glowing green light but I did not see 14V when probing 2 and 5 as shown in the video. I was about to replace my main board, but after watching another video I unplugged the connector under the board, and probed 2 and 5 on the actual male pins. I found that I DID have 14V on those pins. It looks to me like there is a coating on the top side of the board, so probing the board as shown in this video may give misleading results for some boards that have a coating like mine.
@@dannyeskenazi7675 Wow am I glad you posted this response. I was just in that same boat (green light on, no 14v) but couldn’t shake the feeling I wasn’t getting an accurate reading. Even tried a second meter but still 0v until I saw your comment, flipped the board over and voila!
@@PawlH haha I completely forgot that I posted that comment. Glad it was helpful for you!
I have replaced the main power board twice. All electrical connections have been checked out by an electrician. And I still have to shut off power at the breaker so the machine can reset because the door panel goes dead if breaker left on over night. Any other ideas?
Everything works well when power is on. The door goes dead when breaker left on overnight. ????
So mine only has 2 rows of 4 pins. I have tried all of them in different combinations but haven't gotten any power. Anything I'm missing??
Also there is a blinking green light on the motherboard which makes me think there is power
Any help??
I wasn’t getting a reading from the board but was from the main power. I replaced the board and it still wasn’t reading anything consistently. Anybody have any insight into that? I bought a new UI but not sure if that’s going to fix it either.
Mine went blank, so I changed the power board. It worked for a couple weeks and is now off again. Both boards show 30v on pins 2 and 5. Is my multimeter on the wrong setting? It’s set to volts at 200.
Make sure it is in the dc end and with that one set it to the 20 I believe
I’m showing 4 volts. Replaced the main board already. I’ve got 120 at the power supply but only showing 4 volts at the at those pins
I'm a geek and love technology and coding and networking and all that jazz...but electricity is a weak spot and it the danger of it low-key scares me.
But this video was so ridiculously easy to follow and understand that I was able to do everything with confidence.
That alone warrants leaving a comment. Not only that, but pointing out what makes this such an outstanding video:
You're clear, concise, to the point, you don't have an obnoxious opener with blaring music, you have good diction, you don't stutter or go "ummmmm, uhhhhhh, annnnnnnd...", you cover safety, you teach tips/tricks (like the wire trick in your user interface replacement video), and you keep everything streamlined without adding video filler.
3.5 minutes is all it took for you to do a great troubleshooting video.
At this point, upvoting this video isn't even a judgment call. It's obligatory.
10/10 video.
(PS - It was my display. Power in and control board were getting correct voltage. I'm off to finish watching your video about replacing the user interface.)
Ckd the control board for 14v dc to interface board had 14v, ordered and replaced interface board still have the same problem, any suggestions?
I had a dead unit. I replaced the mother board and it worked for about 6 months. Then I had no power, but after resetting the supply breaker it would work for a few days, only to require the resetting of the power supply in order to work. Relative to the UI board I have 12VDC from pin 5 to pin 2 from the mother board but the user interface does not light up. I have tried the original UI board and two others with the same results. I have confirmed the continuity of the wiring harness from the mother board to the UI board. I believe I now need a new mother board. Any comments or direction would be greatly appreciated!!
That sounds similar to my issue. Resetting the circuit breaker would get it going again, then that quit. This diswasher has always done a bad job of cleaning dishes, so it's not worth spending money to fix. Was just hoping to get it running.
@@kevkolb Thanks for the followup. ended up buying a new LG. Like it alot!!
I followed these steps and didn’t get anything on the board. So I replaced the board with a new one. I’m still not getting anything at the board. Does that mean the new board is bad too?
I have no lights on my GE Dishwasher. I checked pin 2 and 5 and had no voltage. I replaced main board, but still have only 2 volts between pin 2 and 5. What is my next step to check?
we have a Gdf520pgj2ww not it won't power on at all to start with the start button was blinking all by itself , no one touched. it has been installed less than 2 years was a clearance model. all the wiring and the outside of console show getting power.
I just went through this procedure and it magically started working after I turned power back on. There is a capacitor or battery in there. I think when that discharges and you remove the UI harness it resets? Idk I think it’s junk too. Called GE and they said “we’ve never heard of this problem” 🤡
With ge profile dw pdt user interface panel works fine one day, then after loading with door down user interface won't come on again for 2 to 3 days. Can water be getting to the user interface? Ty