Great step by step. Here is a tip for step 8 (cowling removal): Rather than prying out the very tight fitting cowling, which risks bending the metal, and then having difficulty putting it back into place by prying again, one can get ample clearance by removing the 19 mm nut at the bottom of the steering rod where the gear meets the steering spindle. This allows one to pull the steering rod up within the plastic bushing to give you an inch of clearance and makes the removal and replacement much easier. And it is much easier to remove that bottom nut to get the clearance rather than trying to pull the steering wheel to get the cowling clearance.
I watched the first "3" videos prior to this one, from farmers to lawnmower repair shops, but I gotta say... this lady has got them all beat! "Props ma'am for that set of skilled hands"! If I had listened to the 3 previous guys, I'd be working on it until something broke. I knew it was easier than portrayed. GREAT JOB MA'AM... 💪🏼😍👍🏼 " ZERO POWER TOOLS" all manual. .. kudos!! & Much respect.
You are my hero! I bought a LA145 last summer. Had issues. Watched 1000 videos, replaced spindle (which I had never even heard of!) Replaced belts, installed new battery, etc.) Basically I was bound & determined to do it my stubborn self. I'm a 58 yr old single woman, raising grandkids, work 3rd shift & moved out to the country. Because I dang wanted to. UA-cam videos have given me a new lease on life. Yours, my dear, is by far the best I've watched on this blessed JD lawn mower!! Thank you! Keep it up. Love garden projects also. (Planted potatoes yesterday straw! Ha! Who knew? We'll see how that goes!) Love from Alabama
YOU GO GIRL!!!!! So happy to see that I am not the only woman out there who does things like this!!! PLUS you didn't bend the body trying to save some time AND used your own hands rather than power tools! 🙂 I am currently doing this on my L120 and last night realized that I don't remember where 2 of the screws go.... 😕 🤔😣 So I came back to a video I was using and found yours! (in my defense our family has had a violent stomach bug so I had to stop once I got it all removed and was MIA for 2 days)
I NEVER would have started this knowing that I was going to have to stop in the middle of it all... It is rare that I end up with extra/not enough parts. I also noticed that you don't have any newer videos... I hope all is well with you and your loved ones. Would love to see more videos from you.... 🙂
Great instructional video. I appreciate you showing us how to do it without disconnecting all the electrics. I just have one suggestion for your method. Instead of prying the upper portion of the cowling up to remove the lower portion, I just removed the steering wheel. My mower has a cover in the middle of the steering wheel that is held on by three tabs that can be compressed with your fingers from underneath the steering wheel hub. Then, the nut holding the steering wheel in place can be removed. This allows the upper portion of the cowling to be lifted easily out of the way. It also provides an opportunity to install a nylon bushing around the steering column's top end to remove any wobble you might have. I used one from a steering gear replacement kit. Everything goes back together much more easily, too. I also figured out what the zip tie is for if you don't have that in part 2. I cut the one securing the seat deadman's switch wiring off and didn't have to disconnect it to move the seat out of the way. When I was done, I used the supplied zip tie to secure the wiring.
The instructions that came with the part from John Deere were incomplete. So were some of the other UA-cam videos. However, this video was very comprehensive and helped me get the job done! The only additional step I did was to remove the steering wheel to make the cowling easier to remove. Great video. Very detailed!
Good lord, you must work for John Deere. First off , buy a battery. Screw gun. Lady, unscrew the two spring bolts in the back and lift the body up.5 min. Instead of all the screwing around with all the bolts and screws. It’s a 10 minute job. Just saying did mine last night. Easy Peary. Pay by the hour, good luck
Great step by step. Here is a tip for step 8 (cowling removal): Rather than prying out the very tight fitting cowling, which risks bending the metal, and then having difficulty putting it back into place by prying again, one can get ample clearance by removing the 19 mm nut at the bottom of the steering rod where the gear meets the steering spindle. This allows one to pull the steering rod up within the plastic bushing to give you an inch of clearance and makes the removal and replacement much easier. And it is much easier to remove that bottom nut to get the clearance rather than trying to pull the steering wheel to get the cowling clearance.
I watched the first "3" videos prior to this one, from farmers to lawnmower repair shops, but I gotta say... this lady has got them all beat! "Props ma'am for that set of skilled hands"! If I had listened to the 3 previous guys, I'd be working on it until something broke. I knew it was easier than portrayed. GREAT JOB MA'AM... 💪🏼😍👍🏼
" ZERO POWER TOOLS" all manual. .. kudos!! & Much respect.
You are my hero! I bought a LA145 last summer. Had issues. Watched 1000 videos, replaced spindle (which I had never even heard of!) Replaced belts, installed new battery, etc.) Basically I was bound & determined to do it my stubborn self. I'm a 58 yr old single woman, raising grandkids, work 3rd shift & moved out to the country. Because I dang wanted to. UA-cam videos have given me a new lease on life. Yours, my dear, is by far the best I've watched on this blessed JD lawn mower!! Thank you! Keep it up. Love garden projects also. (Planted potatoes yesterday straw! Ha! Who knew? We'll see how that goes!)
Love from Alabama
YOU GO GIRL!!!!! So happy to see that I am not the only woman out there who does things like this!!! PLUS you didn't bend the body trying to save some time AND used your own hands rather than power tools! 🙂 I am currently doing this on my L120 and last night realized that I don't remember where 2 of the screws go.... 😕 🤔😣 So I came back to a video I was using and found yours! (in my defense our family has had a violent stomach bug so I had to stop once I got it all removed and was MIA for 2 days)
I NEVER would have started this knowing that I was going to have to stop in the middle of it all... It is rare that I end up with extra/not enough parts.
I also noticed that you don't have any newer videos... I hope all is well with you and your loved ones. Would love to see more videos from you.... 🙂
Great instructional video. I appreciate you showing us how to do it without disconnecting all the electrics. I just have one suggestion for your method. Instead of prying the upper portion of the cowling up to remove the lower portion, I just removed the steering wheel. My mower has a cover in the middle of the steering wheel that is held on by three tabs that can be compressed with your fingers from underneath the steering wheel hub. Then, the nut holding the steering wheel in place can be removed. This allows the upper portion of the cowling to be lifted easily out of the way. It also provides an opportunity to install a nylon bushing around the steering column's top end to remove any wobble you might have. I used one from a steering gear replacement kit. Everything goes back together much more easily, too. I also figured out what the zip tie is for if you don't have that in part 2. I cut the one securing the seat deadman's switch wiring off and didn't have to disconnect it to move the seat out of the way. When I was done, I used the supplied zip tie to secure the wiring.
Safety Tip: ALWAYS remove the negative first (Not the Positive) when disconnecting battery for any application. When reconnecting, reverse the order.
Oh I never remove none of that when I do work on mine
Correct way, always remove positive first then negative, put back positive first then negative. Duh, mechanic 53 years
@y00h0011 is correct... unless the vehicle has a positive ground...
The instructions that came with the part from John Deere were incomplete. So were some of the other UA-cam videos. However, this video was very comprehensive and helped me get the job done! The only additional step I did was to remove the steering wheel to make the cowling easier to remove. Great video. Very detailed!
Very good video this should help me to remove my tank .
This video helped. Thank you!
Thank you very much for making this video to showing me how to take the gas tank off i appreciate it very much thanks again
Thank you! This was a big help!
Is the replacement tank part number GY21876? I want to make sure I get the right part for our LA115.
Thank You’ll for information and advice
Great video. My local John Deere is charging me $540 for everything plus a two week waiting time. The tank costs $198. Thanks.
Dang that’s high price
OMG! No need to go through all that! Just remove the rear bolts from the springs. Lift up the back end and remove the tank. Saves you a ton of time.
Two bolts, pried up the rear and out and in in less than 20 minutes.
Someone buy that woman a power drill with a Phillips tip.
using battery powered or air tools would cut the time down considerably, just saying. great video thanks..
Good lord, you must work for John Deere. First off , buy a battery. Screw gun. Lady, unscrew the two spring bolts in the back and lift the body up.5 min. Instead of all the screwing around with all the bolts and screws. It’s a 10 minute job. Just saying did mine last night. Easy Peary. Pay by the hour, good luck
Did u bend the frame?
Of course he did! LOL 🤣
If I had to do all that I would by another deer
I’m not being a ass but please AllWAYS remove neg cable first, it’s the safe way and no shorting out
And remove your wedding ring first.