I like the way you get right to the point instead of yammering on and on about stuff that has nothing to do with regulators/rectifiers. Very informative!
Ok, so I did get it correctly. I'm about to put one of those exact same reg/rec's on my new Chinese 125 engines that has two yellow wires coming off the stator. Thanks, this is good to know.
Well, that was a secret for the exclusive (technician)😂 .The knowledge of hard to find schematics once made people fail miserably. This is my number one reason why I pay for UA-cam 😉
So not sure for you and I know this is old but I’m using this for a 440cc duromax engine and the coil that is on the engine only produces like 1.5amps and I had to put another coil under the flywheel to get 3 amps which charges my 12v 7ah no problem. Battery was dead and ran for twenty minutes and I could start off the battery again. I’m not sure if this would help but I feel like there may be some correlation🤷🏽♂️
I have a Yellow wire and a White wire coming off my 125cc lifan , I have the same regulator you have , So i connect the Yellow to the Yellow and Pink to the White ?
@@tednelson5574 it worked but since the stator was only a 2 wire (not originally made for charging a battery) I could only have rectified voltage DC or regulated AC not both but the DC was not regulated with this unit so it was too high and would have over charged the battery
I have 150cc and it's a yellow connecter with 4 wires coming out, its right next to the cdi, could that be connecter for the rectifier? I'm confused and looking to around to make sure, thx
I’ve got 2 of them, exactly the same from Amazon . My stator has 25vAc coming out when the bike is idling. I connected the yellow and pink to the correct wires on my MT250 which happen to be yellow and pink also. BOTH rectifiers output 1.6V Dc ??? I’ve tried it without the dc connected and also with yellow pink swapped round . I’ve diode tested the units and checked if the case is shorted to anything and it’s 1.6 v dc every time. I’m a railway electrician/sub tech , I’ve worked in electronics and all manner of electrical work for the past 30 years including transformer construction. Please tell me WTF is going on with these damm things could they possibly both have identical faults lol it’s doing my head in
Wow. That is something else........ I am unclear on how that could happen. Even if it was a 1/2 wave, full wave problem, you still have enough volts to make 12.5v
If it’s the same as a four pin rec/reg that comes on the little 50cc Chinese motor scooters then there’s one wrong wire connection in this video. That green wire is not meant to go to ground. That’s an AC common/return wire. These scooters use AC of the yellow wire (one of the stator coils) to power the headlights and taillights. That green is the ac common. I went through the same thing when hardwiring one of these rectifiers up. Looking at wiring diagram for the bikes they come on it appears to be ground to you realize they have a mixed ac/dc system and the stuff running off ac needs a return path to complete the circuit. So just don’t run that green wire to anything and then it will charge the way it’s supposed to
Eyeball: Thanks for your reply. I found a wiring diagram which helped but it was actually pretty easy to figure out anyway and I now have it back together. I do have a question as these charging coils are new to me so I have no experience to draw from in order to confirm that all is well with my setup: I started with one charging coil but just added a second one. Everything is wired as it is in your video, a charging coil to each of the pink and yellow wires and of course the ground and positive wires as well. With my starting battery connected and the motor shut off I read 12.8 volts at the battery. If I fire up the motor I still see only 12.8 volts which makes me believe that the charging coils are not adding to the equation. If I disconnect my starting battery and run the motor again I read approximately 5 volts DC from the battery terminals. If I switch the meter to AC I read approximately 11 volts, again at around 2/3 power. I am not sure what to conclude from this. Shouldn't I be seeing more volts from the Voltage regulator with the motor running?
Yes. What you have is a different type of stator coil. Yours ground to the engine where they bolt on, am I right? I can't remember right now, but I think you need to either use a full wave rectifier or splice the coils together in a rotational circuit.
Wow, great learning video. My question: i hav da most fuked up chi nah quad. My rectifier is plastic. Blk red pnk gry gree wires comes out of rectifier. Black n pnk not connected. Grn red gry goes to the vehicle. I bought a new one has 5 wires. Blk red yel pnk grn. How do i connect this new with existing blk red gry? Pls help n God bless you!
How to identify the coil is full-wave or half-wave regulation? This rectifier is half-wave regulator but the wire from the coil looks like full-wave regulation. If my suppose is correct, which means you only harvest half electricity energy and lose another half.
You are correct. You only save half of the supplied power with the half wave rectifier. But, I didn't want to dive into all that if people are needing to wire a 4-wire rectifier regulator they already have.
hey bro, i have a yamaha mio scooter with stock stator(half wave), and i bought something like this rectifier that you posted because the seller said it would convert the half wave to full wave, the problem is, i dont know how to wire those, for which is which, any ideas?or have you done to same m/c before?
Yeah, I have before. If my memory serves me right, you hook it up the same. If you have two stator coil wires, you hook them up the same. AC current is AC current. The rectifier will take the positive voltage through it's diodes and convert it to DC regardless. If it only has one Stator coil wire, you should only hook up the one stator input wire and cap the other one off.
Question for you. I only have one yellow ac hot wire coming from the lighting coil . The lighting coil is also grounded to itself so grounds directly when it is installed. No ground wire needed . I assume i can just leave one ac pin vacant ? Thanks
So you want to put one AC yellow from stator to the yellow on r/r, leave the pink blank, and send the green- and red+ to battery -/+. I would like to know if this would work as well.
Hi would this work on an old Honda 6v motorcycle to convert it to 12v? I'm thinking I'd wire into the stator and charge a 12v battery and lights. Possibly run without the battery if possible.
That entirely depends on the stator coils output voltage. Most likely, yes. You can test that by setting a multimeter to a/c and touching it to both of the a/c outputs out of the engine. Many will not make much voltage at idle, but if you are making 13+ volts above idle, you'd be in business.
So I'm basically wiring a dirt bike to have lights. It does not have a battery. Do I need to add a battery or can I wire it without 1? I'd be using the frame for all my common grounds. Thanks
You should be able to just attach the positive output lead to the input of the light. It might pulsate a bit even though it is dc, because it will make power when the stator and magneto coils pass every revolution. 14v directly should be fine for your lights. You may have trouble with LED's though. Perhaps not. You could probably avoid a lightswitch altogether if you wanted. I'd fuse the regulator output probably , just to be sure it never shorted out. Good luck. HMU if you have any more questions.
@@eyeballengineering7007 Thanks for your response. I went ahead and wired it all up. I grounded to frame. Everything works! I used LEDs for the turn signals and they dont flicker. Your video helped clear up a wire question I had and your response confirmed what I thought would happen. Thanks for your help!
Not sure if you can help me but I bought the exact same regulator for a street legal pitbike Im building to have full lighting system. I have 2 yellows coming out of my engine so its a full wave system. wired up perfectly but I only get roughly 5 volts DC on the regulator output. I have not connected up the battery yet as im not at that stage of making the loom but do these regs have some quirk where they only give the full charging voltage when actually connected to the battery? Thanks.
@@danguy2009 Yeah, sorry. That does appear to be how they function. I tried to respond for days, but my internet is sucking so bad in the afternoons that the notification tabs won't open when clicked.
B Curtis, thanks for such a comprehensive video. I need your help. I'm not a proffessional in bikes but I'm tech enthusiast. I like exploring how things work. I have a 5 wire reg rectifier colour coded: yellow, pink, red, green, then black. So I always wonder what the black wire does. I have a clue that yellow an pink wires could ac in. Then mostly, red and green wire are for battery charging. But black one?? pliz help thanks.
+mykel N thanks a lot bro. if u can elaborate, which components does it supply when it comes out from the key. I'v seen one one byk wreckage it powered the flasher unit. Unfortunately some wires were missing from the harness. what else does it supply if any, pliz help thanx.
The black wire is for monitoring the voltage. You will connect the red wire to positive terminal of the battery. You should connect the black wire to any wire which has a 12 v running in it once you turn on ignition ( probably parking light, brake light positive wire). The black wire should not get any voltage once you turn off ignition. The black wire monitors the voltage output load from battery and adjusts the charging voltage to battery using red wire. You can verify the charging voltage to battery With and without connecting black wire and you will be able to notice some variation
I’m still confused about the middle two? What they go to? I’m trying to run led lights on my go kart but I have them hooked up directly to the battery with the engine directly to the battery
We are trying to hook up a light bar for a 3-wheeler that has a rats nest for wiring. The light switch is bad, and we keep blowing lightbars trying to wire them from the battery terminals. Would something like this work to reduce the voltage? If so....how would we wire it off of battery terminals? The bike doesn't have an ignition switch and basically is hotwired. We just can't figure out how to wire a light because the voltage is too high from the battery terminals. Thanks!
If I understood you correctly, yes. Sorry, I didn't see this comment until now. Wire it as I have said. You wouldn't need it hooked to a wiring system, it could run the light bar as long as the two a/c circuits are hooked up along with the power to the light. You would need no switch
Hi Daniel: I have a new Predator 420CC motor that I just installed on a virtually new snowblower for added power. It is now a BEAST and I love it. I am wondering if you ever figured out your wiring issues. In my case I did the same this as you (I think): I added an additional charging coil so that I now have 2 of them. I added a lead acid starting battery and I now have this 4-wire Voltage Regulator like in the video. I am trying to figure out how to wire it into the simple, existing Predator wiring harness without shorting something out. I see where the original charging coil wire is connected to some little electrical doo-dad in the switch box. Could this be a capacitor (?). I am not sure if I should just bypass this little doo-dad (hoping that it may be replaced by the electronics of the new Voltage Regulator) and go straight into one of the center wired of the new VR. Can you offer up an of your conclusions and hep a brother out? Thanks for whatever you or anyone else can do can do to help out. Thanks Eyeball Engineering for this great video! This helped me get closer to my goal and is appreciated.
I'm running a completely different system using Kohler charge coils on a Lifan 420. You really need to look at the predator 420 wiring diagram and find your two AC lead coil wires
Yeah. It sounds like it..... These things have a zener diode in them that grounds to the frame when it hits 14v or so. You shouldn't see over that. Low voltage due to low input is the biggest problem with these usually. I believe they are a half wave rectifier.
How do you wire up a 6 wire unit? I'm working on a yanmar diesel tractor that needs a new voltage regulator / rectifier. They are kind of scarce and hard to find. They range in price anywhere from around $18 up to about $80. I see lots of similar ones on Amazon but they don't list them for the tractor that I'm working on. Does it have to be listed for the tractor I'm working on to get it and install it?
It doesn't matter what they're listed for if you have the correct amount of wires. They'll usually tell you whether or not they're halfwave or full wave rectifier
i did this on my 04 yz250f and i cant have both the coil wires hooked up because it causes the bike not to run. i metered with my dmm to make sure i have the right wires. if i just use the one coil wire it will work but doesnt keep up with demand of the light bar. any tips? thanks
Hi, I have rebuild an xt500 and am trying to convert it from 6v to 12v. I have what seems to be the same regulator as you and have wired it up the samd but it isnt working. Can you help? Thanks.
Disconnect the regulator from the stator outputs. Turn your voltmeter to AC and connect to the stator wires off the engine. Run the engine. If you're not showing at least 12v at idle, it may not make enough voltage. I would expect it to make that much though. Your stator could also be bad. These little cheap regulators may come defective sometimes too. If you have good AC voltage, it may just be bad
My rectifier went from outputting 12V to around 4V randomly... I replaced CDI, Ignition coil, stator, and rectifier- still 4V..... Any Ideas? (140cc yx motor) I am pretty sure I have the same rectifier as well.
Set your multimeter to A/C and run the engine at idle with the meter connected to the stator outputs. If you have less than 12v, the stator is bad. Make sure you didn't lose any magnets off of the magneto too
Hey there. I recently fitted a 12v reg/rec to my 125cc pit bike. im only getting 2.8-4.2 volts from the positive leading from the R/R so LED lights (12v) will not work. Ive seen it done on many youtube vids with success. Do you think this is a stator issue or a faulty R/R?
You can test it using a multi meter. Disconnect the two input a/c lines from the regulator and attach your multi meter to the stator outputs. Have the multi meter set on AC and run the engine. This will give you the output voltage from the stator which should be anywhere from 12v AC to 30v AC. If it's down in the 4-5 volt range as the outputs are, then you know the stator is bad
@@bernzie001 Hmm. Should be good enough for a light and the same voltage would be output. Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is either bad... Or it's probably bad.. I can't think of any other reason for the low output voltage. Make sure all your connections are really good. I solder mine to ensure they last.
Eyeball Engineering I did some digging and found my lighting coil wasn’t grounded. And the second A/C wire was grounding out somewhere. I got it figured out. Thanks for the instructional though. It helped a lot.
sir @@eyeballengineering7007 does it possible the positive supply to my lights and signals lights at the same time the connection to my battery charging???
Really depends on your vehicle. I don't know where you have positive available or ground. You can either ground straight to the frame, or the battery and put positive straight to the battery or through a keyway.
@@eyeballengineering7007 i have an 2001 honda xr400r and I'm just lost when to connect the positive and negative go I'm running the tusk wiring harness with the tusk switch and tuck battery pack and I have an capacitor
@@eyeballengineering7007 it's an tusk enduro wiring harness along with the switch and I have an dot polisport headlight 35w and I also have an regulator/rectifier I also have an 50v capacitor I'm just lost where do I connect the negative&positive wire from the regulator/rectifier to the tusk battery
Hi, you said the yellow and pink are the same... is that mean it can be connected together, directly from yellow to pink?! I'm trying to Rec/Reg AC 12V 6W bicycle dynamo generator that have only two poles coming out (+ and -) with similar 4-Pin rectifier/regulator ... So I believe Negative pole goes to the ground with other ground wires and Positive pole to the yellow wire, but what should I do with the pink wire ?! Can I just bridge it to yellow or I can leave it unconnected? Thanks
@@eyeballengineering7007 No, it's definitely AC 12V 6W ordinary bicycle headlight generator, but I was very wrong (misinformed) about "two poles" that are coming out from generator ... it's not + and - poles to connect light bulb on it, it's two different coil outputs, the one is 12V 6W for the headlight and the other one is 2.5V 0.5W for the rear light, and of course the negative (ground) side is the metal housing of the generator. So, I'll hook 12V 6W coil output to the yellow wire ... but what should I do the pink wire, should I bridge it to the yellow wire or I can leave it unconnected? The green wire goes to the ground and the red wire to the positive (+) of the battery, of course. Thanks
@@antoanlamisura6244 you don't have enough voltage for this regulator. You really need about 20 volts to make it work correctly. I would just add a diode to your 12v power wire for 12v dc. It's about all you can do with that. Your 2.5v AC is basically useless for anything but a low voltage tail light.
@@eyeballengineering7007 but i know a 3 fase rectifier will work on a 2.because i put a old motorcycle one on my china quad....just wasnt sure about the other way around
As long as it's a good ground contact it shouldn't matter. If you had additional resistance in the ground you could have charging issues with voltage regulation.
@@eyeballengineering7007 When you are directly connected to the battery with brand new wire on a brand new battery with thicker AWG on a new rec how is the ground not good? I'm not sure where the original rec and stator wires go through the bike so I'm not sure if there is a limiter that has to be installed to prevent overvolting or the AWG had to be smaller so it limits 17.4V but those wires are cooked and a bit melted. I don't know too much about how electrical systems work or how it was built but to limit the voltage by the AWG would be weird considering how it doesn't blow anything else on the bike. It's 17.4V at high RPM and a check engine light comes on but it pulls hard and everything works. Used to have an undercharging issue when the wire is running through the harness instead of stator to rec to battery. If you connect directly to the battery that means your ground cannot be as immaculate or do you have to go through the frame to distribute the power evenly throughout the bike as it was designed?
@@antdx316 The ground on the battery is always better than the ground on the frame. This is because the battery is the voltage source. The frame is just tied to it. Also, copper conducts better than steel. So the frame always has some additional resistance (Ohms) ..... The wire size should NEVER be ran small to lower the voltage. That is a fire hazard. If you are losing much voltage from the wire, there is a big problem. Either a bad wire, or a bad connection, or wire too small for the load/distance. Any power loss from an undersized wire will be transmitted as heat out of the wire. What I would assume is happening is your original wires are damaged and the voltage reference the regulator/rectifier is seeing from the battery is lower than it actually is. But, where are you testing the voltage? At the battery? at the regulator? That changes everything. Are you touching the battery terminals, or the connectors? Everything comes down to ohms. If you set your tester to ohms, touch the red wire on the regulator and the positive battery terminal with your tester. If you get more than 1-2 ohms or so, the wire either needs replacement/bypassed with new wire or the connections need cleaned or replaced. Do the same thing with the negative wire from the battery to the regulator. This way you know the regulator is seeing the correct voltage from the battery.
@@eyeballengineering7007 so you can test the resistance from one point to another? So if you ground directly to the battery and the frame and still have a voltage issue then it's the rectifier?
@@eyeballengineering7007 yeah its really weird, when i remove the ground wire from regulator lights come bright again. But the voltage seems to not get limited to 12v so bulbs light up too much and will probably get burned. Im going to buy a new regualtor and see whats up
@@eyeballengineering7007 yeah but i need to have a horn, blinkers, low and hi beams, drl, etc to get it registered on my country so i need a battery system for that otherwise i cant get the blinkers to work on idle for example and so on
Sounds like the regulator is bad.. OR-- Are you switching your meter to D/C when you check the output from the regulator? If not, your reading will be not even close.
@@eyeballengineering7007 ok I think that might b it. Because I have both and there both reading the same. I have to see how to put it on DC thanks again
Ok idk what I'm doing wrong. I wired it to a preditor 420 honda clone engine. I added another coil to it because it only had one. The original coil is hooked up to the ignition box its putting out 18v the one I added is pushing 24v so I tapped into the original one with a wire splitter connection. To one of the center wires and my new coil that's pushing 24v to the other middle one and my green is neg and my red is pos (i connected them directly to the battery in Hope's that it will keep the battery charged) that should give me 12 or so volts to charge the motorcycle battery but it's only pushing 1. something volts. Idk were I went wrong
@@danielvielma9279 strange. I've never heard of tapping into the factory ignition coil for added charge. If it doesn't Rob too much power from the spark coil I see it as viable. But you only need power from one coil. You can disconnect the one you spliced from the ignition. Then only leave the one middle input wire connected and tape the other off. You won't have as much charge capacity, but you might find it works. It should still create the correct voltage. I'm not sure what your problem is, but this should work and take out some questions.
I don't believe so. you should have at least 20v for this. It might work as low as 13v, but probably no lower. I believe these are half wave rectifiers.
I like the way you get right to the point instead of yammering on and on about stuff that has nothing to do with regulators/rectifiers. Very informative!
6 videos popped up before you and yours is the first in english
UA-cam algorithms are weird. It's ironic, when I look at the statistics for this video, it's mostly Asian countries that watch it.....
Fast and to the point. Thank you!
Ok, so I did get it correctly.
I'm about to put one of those exact same reg/rec's on my new Chinese 125 engines that has two yellow wires coming off the stator. Thanks, this is good to know.
Should be yellow and orange cables off the stator and may i know how you connected those
Thanks ;) your the Dude Dude
Thanks this is helpful.
Pink with green is AC from magneto. Yellow with green is for headlight(4amp).Red with green is 14.80v for battery charging (1ampere).
Nope.
4 wire rectifier dosent have two stand alone ac wire ...in motor cycle every thing common with ground.same as ac supply have common ground
@@nishantkundu6210 There are multiple four wire rectifier designs. This is one of them. It does not have a headlight circuit.
Cool band aid. But in all seriousness great video. Thank you 🙏🏼
Nothing but the best first aid in this 1st world country lol
Gained a sub for this!
Love the " BandAid". Had one just like it
Thank you
When they manufacture these rectifier need to print a label on back side that would help.
No kidding. Chinese parts are kind of ridiculous like that. At least there is you tube lol.
Well, that was a secret for the exclusive (technician)😂 .The knowledge of hard to find schematics once made people fail miserably. This is my number one reason why I pay for UA-cam 😉
@@kevinmaxwell6610 youtube is free
So not sure for you and I know this is old but I’m using this for a 440cc duromax engine and the coil that is on the engine only produces like 1.5amps and I had to put another coil under the flywheel to get 3 amps which charges my 12v 7ah no problem. Battery was dead and ran for twenty minutes and I could start off the battery again. I’m not sure if this would help but I feel like there may be some correlation🤷🏽♂️
Does it matter which way round the coil wires go?
Very helpful
Will those work on a magnito output?
I have a Yellow wire and a White wire coming off my 125cc lifan , I have the same regulator you have , So i connect the Yellow to the Yellow and Pink to the White ?
Thanks
👌👌👌
Just picked up one of these to add a battery to a snowmobile just for accessories will see how she works out
howd it go?
@@tednelson5574 it worked but since the stator was only a 2 wire (not originally made for charging a battery) I could only have rectified voltage DC or regulated AC not both but the DC was not regulated with this unit so it was too high and would have over charged the battery
4 pins regulator/rectifier best than 5 pins?
I have a part colored yellow-red-black-yellow instead of red-pink-yellow-green. Should they still be the same order but colored differently?
I’m guessing yellow and pink are connected to a step-down transformer.red and green are the output of the filtered rectifier?? 🤷
I have 150cc and it's a yellow connecter with 4 wires coming out, its right next to the cdi, could that be connecter for the rectifier? I'm confused and looking to around to make sure, thx
I’ve got 2 of them, exactly the same from Amazon . My stator has 25vAc coming out when the bike is idling. I connected the yellow and pink to the correct wires on my MT250 which happen to be yellow and pink also. BOTH rectifiers output 1.6V Dc ??? I’ve tried it without the dc connected and also with yellow pink swapped round . I’ve diode tested the units and checked if the case is shorted to anything and it’s 1.6 v dc every time.
I’m a railway electrician/sub tech , I’ve worked in electronics and all manner of electrical work for the past 30 years including transformer construction. Please tell me WTF is going on with these damm things could they possibly both have identical faults lol it’s doing my head in
Wow. That is something else........ I am unclear on how that could happen. Even if it was a 1/2 wave, full wave problem, you still have enough volts to make 12.5v
Did you do (stator float) ?
If it’s the same as a four pin rec/reg that comes on the little 50cc Chinese motor scooters then there’s one wrong wire connection in this video. That green wire is not meant to go to ground. That’s an AC common/return wire. These scooters use AC of the yellow wire (one of the stator coils) to power the headlights and taillights. That green is the ac common. I went through the same thing when hardwiring one of these rectifiers up. Looking at wiring diagram for the bikes they come on it appears to be ground to you realize they have a mixed ac/dc system and the stuff running off ac needs a return path to complete the circuit. So just don’t run that green wire to anything and then it will charge the way it’s supposed to
ua-cam.com/video/ISt_G_cBwbY/v-deo.htmlsi=7oGW05PSCFFMuDi3
Yeah I agree. I had to do the same thing to mine. Then I found out all it was was a banana in the tailpipe.
Need u to show a full harness from the stator fr all these foreign languages I barely understand idk if i did it right
Will this work on my cars alternator?
Can you answer a wiring question for me so I can install my nibbi ignition coil?
does it matter which way the yellow wire and pink wire are attached?
No. They are the same. Sometimes they are both yellow or both pink or.... Just know they are the same
I want to learn
Does anyone know if you need a battery for this to work properly or will it work just fine on a 2 stroke trike that doesn't have a battery?
How do I put one of these on Apollo x18?
Eyeball: Thanks for your reply. I found a wiring diagram which helped but it was actually pretty easy to figure out anyway and I now have it back together. I do have a question as these charging coils are new to me so I have no experience to draw from in order to confirm that all is well with my setup: I started with one charging coil but just added a second one. Everything is wired as it is in your video, a charging coil to each of the pink and yellow wires and of course the ground and positive wires as well. With my starting battery connected and the motor shut off I read 12.8 volts at the battery. If I fire up the motor I still see only 12.8 volts which makes me believe that the charging coils are not adding to the equation. If I disconnect my starting battery and run the motor again I read approximately 5 volts DC from the battery terminals. If I switch the meter to AC I read approximately 11 volts, again at around 2/3 power. I am not sure what to conclude from this. Shouldn't I be seeing more volts from the Voltage regulator with the motor running?
Yes. What you have is a different type of stator coil. Yours ground to the engine where they bolt on, am I right? I can't remember right now, but I think you need to either use a full wave rectifier or splice the coils together in a rotational circuit.
**in a series
Thanks!
Can you connect the pink and yellow and 2 browns all together or do they have to be seperate in pairs like you have it?
Me too mine has one charging coil
you can
Thanks .. needed this
hey I got same wires on my voltage reg but on my kazuma atv on the other end it is : white red green and yellow... what to connect to what?
Can u show detail wayering my bike DYU vip waring contention problem
👍👍👍
Hi ...how mutch maximum volts input and how mutch is maximum amps output?? Thanks
Wow, great learning video. My question: i hav da most fuked up chi nah quad. My rectifier is plastic. Blk red pnk gry gree wires comes out of rectifier. Black n pnk not connected. Grn red gry goes to the vehicle. I bought a new one has 5 wires. Blk red yel pnk grn. How do i connect this new with existing blk red gry? Pls help n God bless you!
How to identify the coil is full-wave or half-wave regulation?
This rectifier is half-wave regulator but the wire from the coil looks like full-wave regulation.
If my suppose is correct, which means you only harvest half electricity energy and lose another half.
You are correct. You only save half of the supplied power with the half wave rectifier. But, I didn't want to dive into all that if people are needing to wire a 4-wire rectifier regulator they already have.
hey bro, i have a yamaha mio scooter with stock stator(half wave), and i bought something like this rectifier that you posted because the seller said it would convert the half wave to full wave, the problem is, i dont know how to wire those, for which is which, any ideas?or have you done to same m/c before?
Yeah, I have before. If my memory serves me right, you hook it up the same. If you have two stator coil wires, you hook them up the same. AC current is AC current. The rectifier will take the positive voltage through it's diodes and convert it to DC regardless. If it only has one Stator coil wire, you should only hook up the one stator input wire and cap the other one off.
Question for you. I only have one yellow ac hot wire coming from the lighting coil . The lighting coil is also grounded to itself so grounds directly when it is installed. No ground wire needed .
I assume i can just leave one ac pin vacant ? Thanks
You can if the single coil makes enough voltage.
Well. I may have been hasty. I think that would work though. You may need to ground the other leg. I haven't thought about this in forever.
So you want to put one AC yellow from stator to the yellow on r/r, leave the pink blank, and send the green- and red+ to battery -/+.
I would like to know if this would work as well.
i want to know,how to create new wiring for chinese bike
For battery operated this 4pins
Hi would this work on an old Honda 6v motorcycle to convert it to 12v? I'm thinking I'd wire into the stator and charge a 12v battery and lights. Possibly run without the battery if possible.
That entirely depends on the stator coils output voltage. Most likely, yes. You can test that by setting a multimeter to a/c and touching it to both of the a/c outputs out of the engine. Many will not make much voltage at idle, but if you are making 13+ volts above idle, you'd be in business.
@@eyeballengineering7007 Thanks I'll look into it.
@@316projects3 diagram please....
And I wanted to use headlights, do I use the red for positive and green as ground?
Yes, if you don't want to run a battery. If you have Led's you can usually ditch the regulator altogether
So I'm basically wiring a dirt bike to have lights. It does not have a battery. Do I need to add a battery or can I wire it without 1? I'd be using the frame for all my common grounds. Thanks
You should be able to just attach the positive output lead to the input of the light. It might pulsate a bit even though it is dc, because it will make power when the stator and magneto coils pass every revolution. 14v directly should be fine for your lights. You may have trouble with LED's though. Perhaps not. You could probably avoid a lightswitch altogether if you wanted. I'd fuse the regulator output probably , just to be sure it never shorted out. Good luck. HMU if you have any more questions.
@@eyeballengineering7007 Thanks for your response. I went ahead and wired it all up. I grounded to frame. Everything works! I used LEDs for the turn signals and they dont flicker. Your video helped clear up a wire question I had and your response confirmed what I thought would happen. Thanks for your help!
@@nickhowes7436 Awesome. That's what this is for.
what about 5 pins with a black wire
What is price?
Not sure if you can help me but I bought the exact same regulator for a street legal pitbike Im building to have full lighting system. I have 2 yellows coming out of my engine so its a full wave system. wired up perfectly but I only get roughly 5 volts DC on the regulator output. I have not connected up the battery yet as im not at that stage of making the loom but do these regs have some quirk where they only give the full charging voltage when actually connected to the battery? Thanks.
just noticed you stated on another comment you believe these are half wave rectifiers? if thats right then that is probably my issue lol.
@@danguy2009 Yeah, sorry. That does appear to be how they function. I tried to respond for days, but my internet is sucking so bad in the afternoons that the notification tabs won't open when clicked.
B Curtis, thanks for such a comprehensive video. I need your help. I'm not a proffessional in bikes but I'm tech enthusiast. I like exploring how things work. I have a 5 wire reg rectifier colour coded: yellow, pink, red, green, then black. So I always wonder what the black wire does. I have a clue that yellow an pink wires could ac in. Then mostly, red and green wire are for battery charging. But black one?? pliz help thanks.
black wire is for the keys ignition
+mykel N thanks a lot bro. if u can elaborate, which components does it supply when it comes out from the key. I'v seen one one byk wreckage it powered the flasher unit. Unfortunately some wires were missing from the harness. what else does it supply if any, pliz help thanx.
The black wire is for monitoring the voltage. You will connect the red wire to positive terminal of the battery. You should connect the black wire to any wire which has a 12 v running in it once you turn on ignition ( probably parking light, brake light positive wire). The black wire should not get any voltage once you turn off ignition. The black wire monitors the voltage output load from battery and adjusts the charging voltage to battery using red wire. You can verify the charging voltage to battery With and without connecting black wire and you will be able to notice some variation
I can make these wiring harnesses.
I’m still confused about the middle two? What they go to? I’m trying to run led lights on my go kart but I have them hooked up directly to the battery with the engine directly to the battery
The engine directly to the battery? ... You need to define what exact wires you are talking about.
Black wire should be for voltage sensor I believe
No. My wiring is correct.
We are trying to hook up a light bar for a 3-wheeler that has a rats nest for wiring. The light switch is bad, and we keep blowing lightbars trying to wire them from the battery terminals. Would something like this work to reduce the voltage? If so....how would we wire it off of battery terminals? The bike doesn't have an ignition switch and basically is hotwired. We just can't figure out how to wire a light because the voltage is too high from the battery terminals. Thanks!
If I understood you correctly, yes. Sorry, I didn't see this comment until now. Wire it as I have said. You wouldn't need it hooked to a wiring system, it could run the light bar as long as the two a/c circuits are hooked up along with the power to the light. You would need no switch
Hi Daniel: I have a new Predator 420CC motor that I just installed on a virtually new snowblower for added power. It is now a BEAST and I love it. I am wondering if you ever figured out your wiring issues. In my case I did the same this as you (I think): I added an additional charging coil so that I now have 2 of them. I added a lead acid starting battery and I now have this 4-wire Voltage Regulator like in the video. I am trying to figure out how to wire it into the simple, existing Predator wiring harness without shorting something out. I see where the original charging coil wire is connected to some little electrical doo-dad in the switch box. Could this be a capacitor (?). I am not sure if I should just bypass this little doo-dad (hoping that it may be replaced by the electronics of the new Voltage Regulator) and go straight into one of the center wired of the new VR. Can you offer up an of your conclusions and hep a brother out? Thanks for whatever you or anyone else can do can do to help out.
Thanks Eyeball Engineering for this great video! This helped me get closer to my goal and is appreciated.
I'm running a completely different system using Kohler charge coils on a Lifan 420. You really need to look at the predator 420 wiring diagram and find your two AC lead coil wires
Magkano presyo ng regulator ng Ez 16 model 2013?
Hooked one of these up to a snowmobile and I'm getting 17.3 volts way to high...could it just be a defective regulator rectifier?
Thanks
Yeah. It sounds like it..... These things have a zener diode in them that grounds to the frame when it hits 14v or so. You shouldn't see over that. Low voltage due to low input is the biggest problem with these usually. I believe they are a half wave rectifier.
Thanks bro was having a issue with running a small radio and it killing my battery
How do you wire up a 6 wire unit?
I'm working on a yanmar diesel tractor that needs a new voltage regulator / rectifier.
They are kind of scarce and hard to find. They range in price anywhere from around $18 up to about $80.
I see lots of similar ones on Amazon but they don't list them for the tractor that I'm working on.
Does it have to be listed for the tractor I'm working on to get it and install it?
Truly depends on the unit.
It doesn't matter what they're listed for if you have the correct amount of wires. They'll usually tell you whether or not they're halfwave or full wave rectifier
Is the ground and positive polarity reversible . can the rectifier burn if these 2 wires install wrong?..
Not reversible. And would likely burn it up
So just run the hot to the positive on the battery right?
yes
do i have to use both yellow and pink? I only have one AC input.
I haven't tried one with a single output stator. Depending on the voltage output of the stator, it might work.
what kind of voltage that the red wire from rectifier you cold it positive ..you mean DC volts ?
Yes. about 14v DC output.
i did this on my 04 yz250f and i cant have both the coil wires hooked up because it causes the bike not to run. i metered with my dmm to make sure i have the right wires. if i just use the one coil wire it will work but doesnt keep up with demand of the light bar. any tips? thanks
Weird. I don't know. I don't have any experience with Yamaha dirt bike stators, sorry.
@@eyeballengineering7007 well okay I'll go over it again thanks for the reply!
can you teach me
Hi, I have rebuild an xt500 and am trying to convert it from 6v to 12v. I have what seems to be the same regulator as you and have wired it up the samd but it isnt working. Can you help? Thanks.
Disconnect the regulator from the stator outputs. Turn your voltmeter to AC and connect to the stator wires off the engine. Run the engine. If you're not showing at least 12v at idle, it may not make enough voltage. I would expect it to make that much though. Your stator could also be bad. These little cheap regulators may come defective sometimes too. If you have good AC voltage, it may just be bad
My rectifier went from outputting 12V to around 4V randomly... I replaced CDI, Ignition coil, stator, and rectifier- still 4V..... Any Ideas? (140cc yx motor) I am pretty sure I have the same rectifier as well.
Set your multimeter to A/C and run the engine at idle with the meter connected to the stator outputs. If you have less than 12v, the stator is bad. Make sure you didn't lose any magnets off of the magneto too
Hey there. I recently fitted a 12v reg/rec to my 125cc pit bike. im only getting 2.8-4.2 volts from the positive leading from the R/R so LED lights (12v) will not work. Ive seen it done on many youtube vids with success. Do you think this is a stator issue or a faulty R/R?
You can test it using a multi meter. Disconnect the two input a/c lines from the regulator and attach your multi meter to the stator outputs. Have the multi meter set on AC and run the engine. This will give you the output voltage from the stator which should be anywhere from 12v AC to 30v AC. If it's down in the 4-5 volt range as the outputs are, then you know the stator is bad
@@eyeballengineering7007 Hey, thanks mate. I did that last night and the white wirs gave me around 12.5 volts and the yellow was 9-10 volts AC
@@bernzie001 Hmm. Should be good enough for a light and the same voltage would be output. Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is either bad... Or it's probably bad.. I can't think of any other reason for the low output voltage. Make sure all your connections are really good. I solder mine to ensure they last.
B Curtis yeah my loom is solid. Nothing wrong at all just have 10-13 volts ac goin in and only 2-4 volts DC coming out.
@@bernzie001 Bummer. Well, you know what to do.
What would happen if it was wired wrong
What's the difference between a 4 pin and 5 I have wires going to my cdi also
Totally different. I cannot remember. Hopefully somebody else did a video on a five wire.
Can I attach the yellow and pink wires together and just run one hookup? I only have one AC wire because my lighting coil is grounded.
I don't believe so. I think you need a half wave rectifier.
Eyeball Engineering I did some digging and found my lighting coil wasn’t grounded. And the second A/C wire was grounding out somewhere. I got it figured out. Thanks for the instructional though. It helped a lot.
@@Ratbiker Awesome!
If I wired this and a battery upto my pitbike will my adjustable cdi finally work?
Not likely.
HI SIR HOW ABOUT THE CONNECTION TO THE BATTERY THE CHARGING THING.. WHERE DO I TAP THE LINE FOR THAT..
Anywhere in your positive circuit large enough to support your charge capability. The starter positive terminal is usually a good spot
sir @@eyeballengineering7007 does it possible the positive supply to my lights and signals lights at the same time the connection to my battery charging???
@@marcusbrazil7993 Yes. No problem.
So i can hook up my cooling fan directly to the red feed and everytime i start my wr250f the fans will begin to spin?
Yeah, it should
So did it work? Curious.
I'll let you know how well it works. Waiting for the plastic connectors.
Mine has a black wire what is the black wire for still has the red yellow pink and green
Same 🤷 have you figured it out yet
Forgot the heat shrinks. I’m a buzz kill I know
Where does the positive and the ground straight to the tusk battery harness
Really depends on your vehicle. I don't know where you have positive available or ground. You can either ground straight to the frame, or the battery and put positive straight to the battery or through a keyway.
@@eyeballengineering7007 i have an 2001 honda xr400r and I'm just lost when to connect the positive and negative go I'm running the tusk wiring harness with the tusk switch and tuck battery pack and I have an capacitor
@@jameshancock4566 I have absolutely no idea what a tusk is. None. Never heard of it.
@@eyeballengineering7007 it's an tusk enduro wiring harness along with the switch and I have an dot polisport headlight 35w and I also have an regulator/rectifier I also have an 50v capacitor I'm just lost where do I connect the negative&positive wire from the regulator/rectifier to the tusk battery
🇵🇬
Hi, you said the yellow and pink are the same... is that mean it can be connected together, directly from yellow to pink?!
I'm trying to Rec/Reg AC 12V 6W bicycle dynamo generator that have only two poles coming out (+ and -) with similar 4-Pin rectifier/regulator ... So I believe Negative pole goes to the ground with other ground wires and Positive pole to the yellow wire, but what should I do with the pink wire ?! Can I just bridge it to yellow or I can leave it unconnected?
Thanks
You hook the two poles to the yellow and pink poles on the rectifier. It sounds like you have a dc generator though. I'd check it's output.
@@eyeballengineering7007 No, it's definitely AC 12V 6W ordinary bicycle headlight generator, but I was very wrong (misinformed) about "two poles" that are coming out from generator ... it's not + and - poles to connect light bulb on it, it's two different coil outputs, the one is 12V 6W for the headlight and the other one is 2.5V 0.5W for the rear light, and of course the negative (ground) side is the metal housing of the generator.
So, I'll hook 12V 6W coil output to the yellow wire ... but what should I do the pink wire, should I bridge it to the yellow wire or I can leave it unconnected?
The green wire goes to the ground and the red wire to the positive (+) of the battery, of course.
Thanks
@@antoanlamisura6244 you don't have enough voltage for this regulator. You really need about 20 volts to make it work correctly. I would just add a diode to your 12v power wire for 12v dc. It's about all you can do with that. Your 2.5v AC is basically useless for anything but a low voltage tail light.
@@eyeballengineering7007 Yeah, thanks for info ... but am I right about connecting the yellow and pink wires?!
@@antoanlamisura6244 those are the correct input a/c wires
work on 3 fase?
I don't think so.
@@eyeballengineering7007 but i know a 3 fase rectifier will work on a 2.because i put a old motorcycle one on my china quad....just wasnt sure about the other way around
Isn’t that a shun regulator rectifier
If you only one charge coil how to wire no place for any more
You should still be able to wire it up. Just discard one of the pink or green wire connections.
i just put the red back to the battery right?
Yes. It has diodes to keep it from draining the battery when the engine is off.
Eyeball Engineering thank u
Please what a bout 5 wire (black) thak you
Hasni Schaker then you should have three a/c charge leads instead of two
Are you supposed to connect the rectifier ground to the frame? not directly to the battery?
As long as it's a good ground contact it shouldn't matter. If you had additional resistance in the ground you could have charging issues with voltage regulation.
@@eyeballengineering7007 When you are directly connected to the battery with brand new wire on a brand new battery with thicker AWG on a new rec how is the ground not good? I'm not sure where the original rec and stator wires go through the bike so I'm not sure if there is a limiter that has to be installed to prevent overvolting or the AWG had to be smaller so it limits 17.4V but those wires are cooked and a bit melted. I don't know too much about how electrical systems work or how it was built but to limit the voltage by the AWG would be weird considering how it doesn't blow anything else on the bike. It's 17.4V at high RPM and a check engine light comes on but it pulls hard and everything works. Used to have an undercharging issue when the wire is running through the harness instead of stator to rec to battery. If you connect directly to the battery that means your ground cannot be as immaculate or do you have to go through the frame to distribute the power evenly throughout the bike as it was designed?
@@antdx316 The ground on the battery is always better than the ground on the frame. This is because the battery is the voltage source. The frame is just tied to it. Also, copper conducts better than steel. So the frame always has some additional resistance (Ohms) ..... The wire size should NEVER be ran small to lower the voltage. That is a fire hazard. If you are losing much voltage from the wire, there is a big problem. Either a bad wire, or a bad connection, or wire too small for the load/distance. Any power loss from an undersized wire will be transmitted as heat out of the wire. What I would assume is happening is your original wires are damaged and the voltage reference the regulator/rectifier is seeing from the battery is lower than it actually is. But, where are you testing the voltage? At the battery? at the regulator? That changes everything. Are you touching the battery terminals, or the connectors? Everything comes down to ohms. If you set your tester to ohms, touch the red wire on the regulator and the positive battery terminal with your tester. If you get more than 1-2 ohms or so, the wire either needs replacement/bypassed with new wire or the connections need cleaned or replaced. Do the same thing with the negative wire from the battery to the regulator. This way you know the regulator is seeing the correct voltage from the battery.
@@antdx316 Also, a low battery voltage before you run it will make it charge at a high (ish) voltage when you rev it. 17.4 is damn high though.
@@eyeballengineering7007 so you can test the resistance from one point to another?
So if you ground directly to the battery and the frame and still have a voltage issue then it's the rectifier?
Hey man if i connect the ground wire the lights become really dim. Regulator might be bad? I used one that was laying around in my garage
Sounds like it shorted. Due to the diodes there should be no current passing through the ground
@@eyeballengineering7007 yeah its really weird, when i remove the ground wire from regulator lights come bright again. But the voltage seems to not get limited to 12v so bulbs light up too much and will probably get burned. Im going to buy a new regualtor and see whats up
Plus current does not get rectified so the battery discharges
@@alejo7548 I found, that if all you want is lights. LEDs work great and handle the voltage. Skipping the entire rectifier/regulator
@@eyeballengineering7007 yeah but i need to have a horn, blinkers, low and hi beams, drl, etc to get it registered on my country so i need a battery system for that otherwise i cant get the blinkers to work on idle for example and so on
You didn’t test it, I Wish you did
Hi do you know why I'm only getting about 1.2 volts out put out of the voltage regulator? I have about 20 something going in
Sounds like the regulator is bad.. OR-- Are you switching your meter to D/C when you check the output from the regulator? If not, your reading will be not even close.
@@eyeballengineering7007 ok I think that might b it. Because I have both and there both reading the same. I have to see how to put it on DC thanks again
Ok idk what I'm doing wrong. I wired it to a preditor 420 honda clone engine. I added another coil to it because it only had one. The original coil is hooked up to the ignition box its putting out 18v the one I added is pushing 24v so I tapped into the original one with a wire splitter connection. To one of the center wires and my new coil that's pushing 24v to the other middle one and my green is neg and my red is pos (i connected them directly to the battery in Hope's that it will keep the battery charged) that should give me 12 or so volts to charge the motorcycle battery but it's only pushing 1. something volts. Idk were I went wrong
@@eyeballengineering7007 I think I have it right because I put it to the battery and I get 12.40v on the same setting
@@danielvielma9279 strange. I've never heard of tapping into the factory ignition coil for added charge. If it doesn't Rob too much power from the spark coil I see it as viable. But you only need power from one coil. You can disconnect the one you spliced from the ignition. Then only leave the one middle input wire connected and tape the other off. You won't have as much charge capacity, but you might find it works. It should still create the correct voltage. I'm not sure what your problem is, but this should work and take out some questions.
What is it for
Turning 20v to 30v A/C voltage from a stator to 14v D/C to charge a battery
dude duct taped his hand 💀
You should see the super glue and paper towel instant splints I've made for broken fingers lol
@@eyeballengineering7007 i've done the paper towel bandage quite a few times but not with super glue lol
Why do you not talk to the china suppliers directly? They can translate into English and they are very helpful.
I just changed my battery and it smoked my regulator
where would i wire up the kill switch? and an on/off switch for a light. no battery
That is only 4 wire regular
If I connect 12 v AC transform to the middle two wires, will it charge a battery?
I don't believe so. you should have at least 20v for this. It might work as low as 13v, but probably no lower. I believe these are half wave rectifiers.
Well explained, bt can you do me a favour by posting a video of how a mechanical regulator works....thanks in advance
Restore car batteries