know this video is 4 years old but in case anyone does see this I've been a mechanic and auto sparky for over 10 years I've lost count of how many Chinese e22 motors I've torn down/modified/repaired very simple electrical systems Here is how to properly wire a system from the stator to C.D.I (Capacitive Dishcharge Ignition) & regulator/rectifier From stator plate to C.D.I Black/red - main coil/exciter Blue/white - timing trigger Green - ground Green/red - neautral selector switch BLACK/RED - main current to C.D.I for running motor. BLACK/YELLOW - from C.D.I is now your main (+) current which connects the coil. The coil is a basically a transformer to amp up the voltage to 104V to create sufficient spark for chambered combustion). BLUE/WHITE - tells the C.D.I what position the motor is away from TDC (top dead centre) and when to fire the spark. BLACK/WHITE - from C.DI is for killswitch self explanatory. GREEN - earth to loom which is grounded to the frame at some point. GREEN/RED - neautral selector switch this connects to your 12V (N) on instrumentation. Yellow - secondary coil/lights White - secondary coil/charging NOTE : both white and yellow wires are run from the secondary coil on stator plate so either can be used for charging or lighting BUT these are dirty AC currents produced from the stator so a regulator/rectifier is ESSENTIAL , once the AC has been regulated & rectified the output is now a clean & usable 12V DC From the regulator/rectifier RED - for charging battery & powering 12V dash instrumentation this usually has a 3 way splice from regulator to 6A fuse then to (+) anode on battery on one end, other end goes straight to the red (+) on ignition barrell, when ignition barrel is in hot position (on) black from ignition barrel is now your hotwire (+) for your 12V instrumentation, if you don't have an ignition barrel or 12V cluster then run direct to battery from 12V 6A fuse GREEN - earth you can set this straight to the frame, or connect to the (-) cathode of the battery YELLOW - for lighting circuit, 3 way splice from stator to regulator then to headlight switch, and from headlight switch to your headlight, a 5-10A fuse is also recommended to be added mid circuit, WHITE OR PINK- for charging a battery this connects straight to the regulator/rectifier Never start a bike with headlights switched on, when first started voltages spike this can burn out lights real fast if there's no fuse set into the lighting circuit, with a switch and fuse this wont happen. From ignition barrel RED - for power (+) connect to (+) anode on battery as mentioned above. BLACK - for power (+) to operate instrumentation from red wire when ignition is in the hot (on) position. GREEN - for earth BLACK/WHITE - for killswitch That's pretty much it unless your installing digital speedo/tacho units which i won't go into as this is an essay just about already 😋 Cheers Matt from 🇦🇺
best pitbike wiring video on UA-cam. I'm sure you got criticism about upgrading your connectors. but the simplest straight forward video. Thank you for your work and sharing.
Josh Koelker Sorry for the late reply, but glad to hear! I honestly do not understand much about circuits but I believe in this case you can say they share a common ground. In all motorcycles I've owned the batteries negative terminal was always grounded to the frame. So to save some wire you can just connect the negative light/battery terminal to the frame.
if your bike has a battery all you have to do is run your light switch to black on ignition switch ground wires ( usually green) to ground in harness hi/lo goes to appropriate position on switch. no need to worry about hot wire as it will get power when you turn on key. the only reason to mess with wiring lights to a stator is if your particular bike does NOT have a battery.
I’m trying to add a battery to mine I’ve linked exactly the same way for my wiring all my lights are perfect just not bright enough, question is do I like the red wire from rectifier to red on battery then add the red to the ignition system desperately trying to run the battery with it too
I have a 125cc LIfan in my Honda XR70 and I'm adding lights and now I'm adding lights and even gonna register it street legal. I tested the Stator and it's providing plenty enough. Problem is only 4 wires that I didn't need before are coming out of the Stator. Green, Yellow, White, and Green/Red. Also, you said you needed 5 wires to run lights? Also, the head light has a high beam and turn signal. I bought and installed turn signals on the back too. Do I just split the wire for those too? I bought a blinker so I'd be going thru that first for the turn signals, front and back.
Hey bud I only have 1 yellow coming from the stator on my bike with only 1 light coil, could I ground the other ac input with a wire to the frame for it to work?
So how does the ground from the stator get connected to the regulator do you run the negative from lights to ground wire spliced and then into the reg ?
Thks four your excellent video I have a Piaggio Zip 2T other day I drive and same one stop me and tell me my rear lights is blinking after 2 days all my lights is blown front and rear I’m surprise my fuse don’t blown also when I drive in full throttle same times is cut don’t the speed what you think is my regulator fault thank you help appreciate
Trying to wire my ktm . Wires are a mess. Is there a way I can find the main power from the stator regulator to a battery then to a aftermarket harness with all my lights and switches ?
Hey but on a 5 wire system they say that if you have 2 yellows to ground one and twist the yellow and white together and add the yellow from stator to that
1:44 What is the bottom center wire's function? I realize this was 3 years ago, but if you remember... Also, the kill switch when 'killed' is grounded or is it ground lifted? Thanks..
Bro I have a brown cabl from my rectifier. I didn’t have one in my original one, but had gotten a different one and lost on where to put the brown wire. Any help?
I need help I just got a new engine but it's a honda I got. Da red an black wire an da blue an white wire but not da green an white an just green so will it still work that way. I hope so I paid a lot for there engine I got a 125 apollo
Do you know how to add a way to store enough power so the headlight stays bright whenever its on, not only at high rpm? Iv done the same thing you did, and i wish this video was available then. Nice work! Thanks.
Thats exactly what i was thinking, but i cant find one small enough. Would a capacitor work? Im not an electric guru, but with you tube, i ussually get it done. Lol
curious so if you are not connecting the red to the starter solenoid the battery isnt charging. Why wouldn't you want to ren another red wire there to charge the battery as well?
How would I hook my coil pack and kill switch up to my stater wires it has five all the same color as yours but I have two yellows instead of a white my coil pack wires are black and yellow and green and my Killswitch wires are black and white and green I’ve tried hooking it up multiple different ways and I can’t get spark. Do you know what I’m doing wrong?
Wired up my headlight and tail like perfectly fine, but not sure how to wire in the blinkers with the flasher relay. Do you know how to do this? Thanks
Wow, great learning video. My question: i hav da most fuked up chi nah quad. My rectifier is plastic. Blk red pnk gry gree wires comes out of rectifier. Black n pnk not connected. Grn red gry goes to the vehicle. I bought a new one has 5 wires. Blk red yel pnk grn. How do i connect this new with existing blk red gry? Pls help n God bless you!
Howzit man. I have a bit of an issue I replaced my atv engine that had a yellow and a white wire coming out of the stator And the new engine has two yellow wires coming from the stator. How do I connect them to the wiring
They can be for either doesn't matter if white/white, yellow/yellow or yellow/white they are both connected to the secondary coil on stator plate they both produce the same amount of AC
I no longer own the bike but it's still a simple circuit. You would need a turn signal switch and a relay(for flashing). Videos should be a available if you search. Good luck!
If the lights are barely lighting up then its probably not enough power to charge the battery. The battery will just keep dying. 1st double check the wiring to make sure connections are good. After you can check the voltage(DC) that is coming out. You can see if you actually have a lightening coil too. Under the cover it should have either 2 or multiple coils,
I have a trail 70 I swapped the engine to a 5 wire yx 190 and I got 2 yellow wires I had to twist together a yellow a white and then add a stator yellow and ground the other one and I got my power... so is your method for a yellow and a white not 2 yellows
Any tips on how to test the regulator? I have checked wiring and its exactly as you have yours so thats all good but when I ride the bike it just runs the battery down and I cant work out why. I have a suspicion the regulator is faulty but I don't know how to test it.
Before starting, check the voltage of the battery. After, start the engine and test the battery voltage with the engine running. You can give it some revs to see if there is any change in voltage too(Disconnect any lights or sensitive aux equipment in case). Go slow with the revs to make sure it is not going beyond 13-14v(this voltage means the battery is charging). If you see no change in voltage after starting engine, there is a problem.
@my50bike: Did you find a solution to your problem. I have the same issue. I have tried a new regulator but that didnt fix. Curious to know if you manage to fix your issue.
@@tomiylkanen7843 Hi, my issue ended up being the regulator the problem was solved. I used the techniques on this video to help me test it and found it was faulty.
It's best if I make another video with a diagram showing the wiring for the brake light. Its a little difficult to explain it in words. It took me a bit to figure out how to do it myself but I bought an on/off switch for the foot brake. I believe you have 2 positive and 1 negative lead. So in mine I wired the running light with my head light so 1 positive and the 1 negative connected. Then I wired the last positive with the switch so the connection would complete when I step on the foot brake.
I bought a different stater/magneto for my pit bike to add head and tail lights off amazon, cheap and easy! Dumb me, after i was halfway done, i realized i didnt even need a different stater/magneto, but i finished it with the new parts. Now i wanna add a small battery so the headlight is always bright.
hey i dont know but thought id offer info, get a multimeter, you can put one lead to ground then probe the terminals at the regulator anything crazy or above 12 volt range may burn bulbs, could be a simple fix like a wire in a wrong spot. good luck!
Sorry for the super late reply but there are a couple ways to connect wires to ground/frame. One way is crimping or soldering a ring terminal to the wire and then adding it to a bolt going through the frame. Use should use a multimeter to test that you have continuity.
@@IsaacPel does the regulator ground by mounting it to the frame? then the light or lamps ground wire goes to regulator terminal where you have the reen wire? maybe the green wire from the regulator terminal can go to frame and lighting ground if regulator mounting does not provide frame ground?
Right, you would need a 5 wire stator which has two or more coils(more output for engine and aux/lights/charge battery.) The 3 wire only has 1 coil for engine. The 5 wire stator is not too expensive but it does take work into replacing and possibly special tools.
If you are going to use a light and a usb charger you definitely want to use a battery. There are motorcycle usb chargers you can directly hook up/connect to the battery or 12v. Some have on/off switches but if it doesn’t and you don’t run the bike often, you may want to disconnect it to stop if from draining the battery.
Also if you are trying to add it to a pit bike, the amps on current cellphone batteries are comparable to the amps on pit bike batteries. It may be best to just stick with portable power banks to charge your electronics.
know this video is 4 years old but in case anyone does see this I've been a mechanic and auto sparky for over 10 years I've lost count of how many Chinese e22 motors I've torn down/modified/repaired very simple electrical systems
Here is how to properly wire a system from the stator to C.D.I (Capacitive Dishcharge Ignition) & regulator/rectifier
From stator plate to C.D.I
Black/red - main coil/exciter
Blue/white - timing trigger
Green - ground
Green/red - neautral selector switch
BLACK/RED - main current to C.D.I for running motor.
BLACK/YELLOW - from C.D.I is now your main (+) current which connects the coil.
The coil is a basically a transformer to amp up the voltage to 104V to create sufficient spark for chambered combustion).
BLUE/WHITE - tells the C.D.I what position the motor is away from TDC (top dead centre) and when to fire the spark.
BLACK/WHITE - from C.DI is for killswitch self explanatory.
GREEN - earth to loom which is grounded to the frame at some point.
GREEN/RED - neautral selector switch this connects to your 12V (N) on instrumentation.
Yellow - secondary coil/lights
White - secondary coil/charging
NOTE : both white and yellow wires are run from the secondary coil on stator plate so either can be used for charging or lighting BUT these are dirty AC currents produced from the stator so a regulator/rectifier is ESSENTIAL , once the AC has been regulated & rectified the output is now a clean & usable 12V DC
From the regulator/rectifier
RED - for charging battery & powering 12V dash instrumentation this usually has a 3 way splice from regulator to 6A fuse then to (+) anode on battery on one end, other end goes straight to the red (+) on ignition barrell, when ignition barrel is in hot position (on) black from ignition barrel is now your hotwire (+) for your 12V instrumentation, if you don't have an ignition barrel or 12V cluster then run direct to battery from 12V 6A fuse
GREEN - earth you can set this straight to the frame, or connect to the (-) cathode of the battery
YELLOW - for lighting circuit, 3 way splice from stator to regulator then to headlight switch, and from headlight switch to your headlight, a 5-10A fuse is also recommended to be added mid circuit,
WHITE OR PINK- for charging a battery this connects straight to the regulator/rectifier
Never start a bike with headlights switched on, when first started voltages spike this can burn out lights real fast if there's no fuse set into the lighting circuit, with a switch and fuse this wont happen.
From ignition barrel
RED - for power (+) connect to (+) anode on battery as mentioned above.
BLACK - for power (+) to operate instrumentation from red wire when ignition is in the hot (on) position.
GREEN - for earth
BLACK/WHITE - for killswitch
That's pretty much it unless your installing digital speedo/tacho units which i won't go into as this is an essay just about already 😋
Cheers
Matt from 🇦🇺
Thanks so much!
I have a brown wire on my regulator, do you know where that would connect?
What colour wire removes the restrictor my bike is real slow and restricted I need to fix that!
Great knowledge 👏 👌 👍 🙌 💯
Great mind 👌 👍
best pitbike wiring video on UA-cam. I'm sure you got criticism about upgrading your connectors. but the simplest straight forward video. Thank you for your work and sharing.
Thumbs up bro helped me a lot. Deleted the harness and wired a new one. Thanks for the help!
Glad the vid helped!
@@IsaacPel what happens if you don't use the regulator
Wow bro super helpful thanks a ton👍👍👍👍👍 I just wired a new stator on my bike that has the yellow and white wires and I was wanting to do this
Dude thank you so much. Someone before me botched the wiring job of the rectifier.
so ac and dc share ground (frame)? or is bottom right the dc ground?
Josh Koelker Sorry for the late reply, but glad to hear!
I honestly do not understand much about circuits but I believe in this case you can say they share a common ground. In all motorcycles I've owned the batteries negative terminal was always grounded to the frame. So to save some wire you can just connect the negative light/battery terminal to the frame.
It's also best to use a voltmeter to test connections and voltages to avoid damage 👍
if your bike has a battery all you have to do is run your light switch to black on ignition switch ground wires ( usually green) to ground in harness hi/lo goes to appropriate position on switch. no need to worry about hot wire as it will get power when you turn on key. the only reason to mess with wiring lights to a stator is if your particular bike does NOT have a battery.
right! mine is a kickstart. It has a lifan engine with a starter but no battery. there is a chain inside so could i jump start it?
Mind helping me with my project?
I’m trying to add a battery to mine I’ve linked exactly the same way for my wiring all my lights are perfect just not bright enough, question is do I like the red wire from rectifier to red on battery then add the red to the ignition system desperately trying to run the battery with it too
I have a 125cc LIfan in my Honda XR70 and I'm adding lights and now I'm adding lights and even gonna register it street legal. I tested the Stator and it's providing plenty enough. Problem is only 4 wires that I didn't need before are coming out of the Stator. Green, Yellow, White, and Green/Red. Also, you said you needed 5 wires to run lights? Also, the head light has a high beam and turn signal. I bought and installed turn signals on the back too. Do I just split the wire for those too? I bought a blinker so I'd be going thru that first for the turn signals, front and back.
Thank Bud great explanation. Thanks for the video
thanks for the video . If you have a kill switch where would you wire that to ? thanks working on a 77honda 50a that has been converted to cdi .
Hey bud I only have 1 yellow coming from the stator on my bike with only 1 light coil, could I ground the other ac input with a wire to the frame for it to work?
So how does the ground from the stator get connected to the regulator do you run the negative from lights to ground wire spliced and then into the reg ?
Thanks for the video! :D
Thks four your excellent video I have a Piaggio Zip 2T other day I drive and same one stop me and tell me my rear lights is blinking after 2 days all my lights is blown front and rear I’m surprise my fuse don’t blown also when I drive in full throttle same times is cut don’t the speed what you think is my regulator fault thank you help appreciate
Trying to wire my ktm . Wires are a mess. Is there a way I can find the main power from the stator regulator to a battery then to a aftermarket harness with all my lights and switches ?
What if I have 2 yellow wires not a white one
Good job man great video 👍👍😎
Thanks for watching!
Good video man👍🏼👍🏼
Hey but on a 5 wire system they say that if you have 2 yellows to ground one and twist the yellow and white together and add the yellow from stator to that
Dude thank you!!!
What colour wire is the restrictor wire on a five pin? Thanks peeos
1:44 What is the bottom center wire's function?
I realize this was 3 years ago, but if you remember...
Also, the kill switch when 'killed' is grounded or is
it ground lifted? Thanks..
Bro I have a brown cabl from my rectifier. I didn’t have one in my original one, but had gotten a different one and lost on where to put the brown wire. Any help?
Hi at idle are you getting a full 12v dc out of the red at the rectifier ?
I need help I just got a new engine but it's a honda I got. Da red an black wire an da blue an white wire but not da green an white an just green so will it still work that way. I hope so I paid a lot for there engine I got a 125 apollo
Do you know how to add a way to store enough power so the headlight stays bright whenever its on, not only at high rpm? Iv done the same thing you did, and i wish this video was available then. Nice work! Thanks.
Thanks, appreciate it! In your case you probably just have to add a battery to keep everything more constant.
Thats exactly what i was thinking, but i cant find one small enough. Would a capacitor work? Im not an electric guru, but with you tube, i ussually get it done. Lol
So how do I I get the negative for the battery I’m trying to charge
curious so if you are not connecting the red to the starter solenoid the battery isnt charging. Why wouldn't you want to ren another red wire there to charge the battery as well?
I got a rectifier and wired it all up but when I turn on the light bar the bike dies any ideas?
How would I hook my coil pack and kill switch up to my stater wires it has five all the same color as yours but I have two yellows instead of a white my coil pack wires are black and yellow and green and my Killswitch wires are black and white and green I’ve tried hooking it up multiple different ways and I can’t get spark. Do you know what I’m doing wrong?
Wired up my headlight and tail like perfectly fine, but not sure how to wire in the blinkers with the flasher relay. Do you know how to do this? Thanks
Did you get this sorted Nick?
So I need a rectifier my pit bike keeps burning bulbs
the best video
Wow, great learning video. My question: i hav da most fuked up chi nah quad. My rectifier is plastic. Blk red pnk gry gree wires comes out of rectifier. Black n pnk not connected. Grn red gry goes to the vehicle. I bought a new one has 5 wires. Blk red yel pnk grn. How do i connect this new with existing blk red gry? Pls help n God bless you!
I just did - to + and + to - and was all good. I blew 2 fueses but all good now.
Haha it happens, but good to hear it worked out
My regulator is not making enough power to power my light bar why it’s only reading 2v on the multi meter
good viedeo
Sorry man. Pls tell me about the black wire from regulator. Were it goes
Isaac P I have a question about the wiring of a electric enricher (electric choke) if you can help me
Sorry I'm unfamiliar with electronic choke but hope it works out!
Howzit man. I have a bit of an issue I replaced my atv engine that had a yellow and a white wire coming out of the stator
And the new engine has two yellow wires coming from the stator. How do I connect them to the wiring
They can be for either doesn't matter if white/white, yellow/yellow or yellow/white they are both connected to the secondary coil on stator plate they both produce the same amount of AC
Have you or can you go more in depth on how you connected the turn signals?
I no longer own the bike but it's still a simple circuit. You would need a turn signal switch and a relay(for flashing). Videos should be a available if you search. Good luck!
Can u bye pass the recterfire
Cheers 🍻
I have the ...green ....blue white....red black ....and 2 yellows question how to I do it with the 2 yellows ? Does it make a difference
I believe you splice both yellows together
My bike has no lights where do I connect the red wire coming from my rectifier
i did the same hook up but the lights only turn on at high RPM's so wouldi need to add a battery ?
If the lights are barely lighting up then its probably not enough power to charge the battery. The battery will just keep dying.
1st double check the wiring to make sure connections are good. After you can check the voltage(DC) that is coming out.
You can see if you actually have a lightening coil too. Under the cover it should have either 2 or multiple coils,
I have a trail 70 I swapped the engine to a 5 wire yx 190 and I got 2 yellow wires I had to twist together a yellow a white and then add a stator yellow and ground the other one and I got my power... so is your method for a yellow and a white not 2 yellows
Any tips on how to test the regulator? I have checked wiring and its exactly as you have yours so thats all good but when I ride the bike it just runs the battery down and I cant work out why. I have a suspicion the regulator is faulty but I don't know how to test it.
Before starting, check the voltage of the battery. After, start the engine and test the battery voltage with the engine running. You can give it some revs to see if there is any change in voltage too(Disconnect any lights or sensitive aux equipment in case). Go slow with the revs to make sure it is not going beyond 13-14v(this voltage means the battery is charging). If you see no change in voltage after starting engine, there is a problem.
@@IsaacPel great thanks mate...much appreciated.
@@IsaacPel Ok sweet much appreciated.
@my50bike: Did you find a solution to your problem. I have the same issue. I have tried a new regulator but that didnt fix. Curious to know if you manage to fix your issue.
@@tomiylkanen7843 Hi, my issue ended up being the regulator the problem was solved. I used the techniques on this video to help me test it and found it was faulty.
How do I get braking light as Well? I've got a 3 wire tail light and brake switches but don't know what to do with it?
Lukvaz Munk jambo / jumbo footbrake switch is what you need to buy it runs, to the rear tire
You have to run a seperate power wire in series through both switches, starting with a splice to dc power (red) and ending at the brake light wire.
It's best if I make another video with a diagram showing the wiring for the brake light. Its a little difficult to explain it in words. It took me a bit to figure out how to do it myself but I bought an on/off switch for the foot brake.
I believe you have 2 positive and 1 negative lead. So in mine I wired the running light with my head light so 1 positive and the 1 negative connected. Then I wired the last positive with the switch so the connection would complete when I step on the foot brake.
My stator does not have the white and yellow wires . How would I add head and tail lights??
I bought a different stater/magneto for my pit bike to add head and tail lights off amazon, cheap and easy! Dumb me, after i was halfway done, i realized i didnt even need a different stater/magneto, but i finished it with the new parts. Now i wanna add a small battery so the headlight is always bright.
good video thumbs up! now to get me a regulator! my "extra yellow and white dangleing wires" will finnally have a purpose! Thanks!
This isn't regulating my voltage. Burned out all my bulbs. Have you run into this problem and found a solution yet?
I just did the same thing. Did you find a solution?
Any solutions guys?
Supposedly the rectifier is bad. Next time lets add a 2 amp fuse before the bulb just in case the cheap rectifier goes out again
hey i dont know but thought id offer info, get a multimeter, you can put one lead to ground then probe the terminals at the regulator anything crazy or above 12 volt range may burn bulbs, could be a simple fix like a wire in a wrong spot. good luck!
You stator generating higher voltage than regulator can withstand or you drawing too much current.
Hey I need help I connected the cables same as u but I just get 3v idk why
I'm getting 3v too did you ever figure out the problem
I have the same issue. Did you guys ever figure it out?
I just bought another one more bigger
Where did you connect the green cable for ground
Sorry for the super late reply but there are a couple ways to connect wires to ground/frame. One way is crimping or soldering a ring terminal to the wire and then adding it to a bolt going through the frame. Use should use a multimeter to test that you have continuity.
@@IsaacPel does the regulator ground by mounting it to the frame? then the light or lamps ground wire goes to regulator terminal where you have the reen wire? maybe the green wire from the regulator terminal can go to frame and lighting ground if regulator mounting does not provide frame ground?
So if it has 3 then no lights?
Right, you would need a 5 wire stator which has two or more coils(more output for engine and aux/lights/charge battery.) The 3 wire only has 1 coil for engine. The 5 wire stator is not too expensive but it does take work into replacing and possibly special tools.
How can I wire a headlight and a usb charger
If you are going to use a light and a usb charger you definitely want to use a battery. There are motorcycle usb chargers you can directly hook up/connect to the battery or 12v. Some have on/off switches but if it doesn’t and you don’t run the bike often, you may want to disconnect it to stop if from draining the battery.
Also if you are trying to add it to a pit bike, the amps on current cellphone batteries are comparable to the amps on pit bike batteries. It may be best to just stick with portable power banks to charge your electronics.
My bike won't start anymore I put a brand new carburetor on it brand new battery my gas flow is good the bike is brand new it's a xpro Titan 250
Turn e carb around