🔥 Want fuel saving parts? Order Some Today! www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/ ✅ Check Out Our Become a Diesel Expert - General Knowledge for Diesel Owners Videos Here: ua-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52di8JGIOTfyIzSrC2je4lfsz.html ✅ Check Out Our Other Diesel University Videos Here: ua-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52djQy2Txep8oGb6JUyN9wDWV.html ✅ Check Out Our Other How To and Problem Solver Videos Here: ua-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52dgFDIps8we_O_lamHZQBFzi.html ⚠ Saving Diesel Lives! Check out our online store for performance products at: www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/ ☎ Give us a call for FREE ADVICE: (866) 737-4966 🎉 Please remember to SUBSCRIBE, LIKE, and COMMENT if you like our videos! It really does help us out! Thx for the support. ua-cam.com/users/thoroughbreddiesel ❤ Join Our Diesel Community ❤ ● FACEBOOK: facebook.com/Thoroughbreddiesel ● TWITTER: twitter.com/TbredDiesel ● INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/tbreddiesel/ ● PINTEREST: www.pinterest.com/tbreddiesel/ ● BLOG: www.dieseladdict.com/ ● SNAPCHAT: tbred_diesel
I would love to see a in-depth video continuing on this but on the gasoline side as well .for this is an excellent video . but i would like to see this being brought into on a engine rebuild side and bring out the fuel economy like they did on a article from 1992 4x4 and was called project MPG . and then use that as a base and continue on it as well :) !! i will be keeping my ears open on this and you vids keep up the good work .
I deleted my DPF, and EGR. Got 5 MPG more on my 6.4. Through the tuner, I lowered the low-pressure fuel to #2 got 1 more MPG, and looks like I got rid of the little bit of black smoke that I had on take-off. Stop-and-go traffic can be hard on that. I still lift off just fine.
The single most important factor in fuel economy is THE DRIVER. I watch videos talking about Ram Heavy Duty Pickups, and seems not one comes close to the mileage we're getting from our bone stock 2021 Ram 2500 Crew Cab 4wd!! We CONSISTENTLY average 20mpg (between 19.7 and 20.6). That includes frequent trips to and thru town. How?? Keep your foot off the accelerator! Train yourself to drive like there's an egg between your foot and the pedal! Hold your speed to 55-60 mph. It really doesn't make you get there much later, but makes SO MUCH difference in mileage! Our truck is a stock 2021 Ram 2500 Crew Cab 4X4, 6.7 Cummins, and we always carry around 500#'s under a 200# Leer 180 high top camper shell. It's not quite as good as what we got with our old 2007 3500 with a 5.9, but actually pretty close. We used to get 18 mpg while pulling a 7500# Travel Trailer, with a cabover work camper that was probably 1500#'s and loaded with around 750#'s of tools. Please be courteous of others who want to go faster, but that's really not as hard as one might think! (Big rig drivers appreciate when you flash your lights to let them know when they're clear to move back into you lane, etc..) Yeah, I know "I could NEVER slow down!", but another 150 miles from a tank of fuel is significant!!! 30 gallons X 20 mpg (at under 60 mph)= 600 miles 30 Gallons X 15 mpg (at 70 + mph)= 450 miles
I agree. I've got 270,000 miles with original brakes, fuel pump, injectors, and 68rfe. I average between 21 and 24mpg. But I live in the country, if I go into town mpg goes way down. I drive for that mpg score on the dash, and use a lot of injector cleaner.
I am very impressed with how Wade presents his thorough understanding of Diesel engines and their complex systems. Watching his many other install videos is very informative and I trust Wade knows a hell of a lot about Diesels. I am pretty sure he could fix the alignment and efficiency of my mother's false teeth, if she could just get an appointment!! :) Almost just kidding (she passed a few years back) But, if I lived anywhere near his shop I would for sure be a customer. I am a new subscriber to the channel and will try to watch all of the videos to learn more !!! Thanks for the great videos !!
Wrapping the manifolds, up pipe, and a turbo blanket Will improve efficiency by keeping the energy in the system all the way through the turbo. In turn reducing the throttle required to travel at any given speed. Even reduces EGT by putting more air in with the 12,000 rpm increase shaft speed across the entire rpm range. ( the 12k bump was a lab test using a turbo blanket only. )
I use to say if you are worried about fuel economy and drive a diesel then get rid of it and drive a gasser. But now being an owner operator hotshot business fuel mileage is a big thing. What I found a big part of fuel economy efficiency is as simple as where you buy your fuel no matter if you drive a diesel or gasser. I found that Chevron, Phillips 66 and Petro are the best and still yet these are not created equal either. Another thing I look for is if the gasser pump has just the 10% stuff or offer 100% fuel. Diesel quality is best when the station offers 100% gasser fuel. Also look at the color of diesel coming out of the nozzle. I’ve noticed that the diesel at most Loves and Flying J and big fueling stations are like a whisky color not green. I also run hotshot secrets fuel additive which helps big time. Just my two cents I’ve found over the years. As soon as my warranty is up on my 2022 Duramax I will be doing some upgrades and tuning which shouldn’t be much longer. Maybe by the end of the year or early next year.
If I could bother you to elaborate on "...if the gasser pump has just the 10% stuff or offer 100% fuel. Diesel quality is best when the station offers 100% gasser fuel." I don't follow what you mean?
@@tattooedmillionair what I mean is that if a fuel station has only 10% ethanol fuel at the pumps then their diesel is Biodiesel which means the cetane in the diesel is lower. Which in turn you will burn more fuel. If I put biodiesel in will mean I will have to stop and fill about 70 miles to 100 miles or sooner than filling with better quality fuel.
@@tattooedmillionair you’re welcome! I also use hotshot secrets diesel extreme fuel additive. Even though owners manual states not to use any additives I’ve been using since 25 miles. You can also check quality by color. Lime sherbet/ green jolly rancher color is good and a dark tint with green is pretty dirty I usually stop pumping and fill at another station. Also if you see a semi tankers filling the stations tanks go to another station. The force of the tanker filling stirs up settlements.
Been running my 97 dodge 3500 since new and fuel efficiency has been my main priority since day1. Mileage would go from 25 to 19 mpg when tire pressure would drop 10lbs. Maintenance is key
@@David-ub2iz Maximum pressure. Expect tire wear to increase down the center though. I never run factory tire pressure. I run what the tire manufacture recommends based on the weight.
@@That_Handle I'm not reading all of your dribble... maximum pressure is always going to be lowest rolling resistance. Tire pressure is to be measured while the tire is at ambient temp. The subsequent rise in pressure due to heat does not matter. Dollars to donuts you restate points I've made in a few sentences that took you two paragraphs.
With my 91.5 D250 I can't and won't run the pressure on the data plate, 35psi front ( only wears the sholders) 80psi rear( only tuches the center 2.5" of 7" tread[235/85r16]). empty I run 65/50, loaded I adjust for even tread contact/ temperature using a IR temp gun. Tire man was astounded that I got 60k mi out of a set of 50k mi tires. Most get 25-30k on same setup. Yes it is a hassle to deal with but 1200 every 2 years is better than 2400-3600 in the same time. All that said 2psi low on 1 tire costs me 4mpg ,dropping from 24-26 to 22.
I went from delo 400 15/40to Amsoil heaven duty diesel 5/30 and picked up 3 miles per gallon in my built 06’ 5.9l Cummins with smeding diesel compound 2nd gen kit and lots and lots of other thing including FASS 150 and Idustrials bag of parts and so on and so on at around 800whp oil alone can cost more now but saves you a lot down the road!
I got a second generation 12 valve I had for ever . It's got 215 k or so miles on it ..I had it since 98 . When I bought it I got 16 miles to gallon. Was a dog also. Tried several things then timing . I went to 18 deg in spite of all the negative things I was told . First off it ran a lot better . Mileage went to 21 . Huge difference. . I did the timing myself with a snap on kit . I drive for mileage . I run with my tires aired up . Now that I have done the g56 conversion I think mileage may be a bit better especially around town ..I run 215 injectors with the thin washers . . I don't care about hp . Mine runs good enough. Thanks for your videos
I maintain my diesel and run tuning. Main thing I see by me is larger tires. Larger tires = worse mpg. Also guys hammering their diesels around town. Easy on the throttle helps!
great video. As a transporter fuel efficiency is everything. I have a ram 3500 with selectable tuning, edge insight, fleece lift pump, s&k air intake, and upgrade turbo. Everything you talked about is spot on. I have noticed when towing a heavy load if I switch to a hotter tune I will gain about 2 more mpg empty I back it off. Always looking for more ways to improve.
We have a 2001dodge diesel 4x4 automatic transmission 5.9 not to many options for us , I am running a smarty S03, aurora 3000 turbo, 4 inch exhaust, did upgrad the air cleaner, fass fuel pump, all u joints replaced. We are retired towing around 10,000 travel trailer.
I do have to say.. to get some better fuel mileage .. clean fuel! number 1.. good street tires with good air pressures! number 2...drive responsibly! number 3...
Im looking into putting a catchcan on. Keeping all that crap out of the engine and off the turbo fins is paramount to longevity. Love to see a video of catchcan installment in a 6.4. Im sure it will requier empting often. But better out than in
@@Thumpr110 You got it. 3 years ago I was paying 1,69 in Massachusetts a gallon and never worried about fuel efficiency. Now I'm paying 6,00 a gallon in California and it hurts.
biggest bang for the buck with the 12 valve / early 24 valve cummins i've seen is a camshaft that boosts cylinder pressures , nox emissions will go up but millage will also go way up , a easy 2 - 3 mpg
Actually it's been proven in wind tunnel testing and 3D modeling that an empty truck bed with the tail gate up is the most aerodynamic a truck will get. The tailgate and bed create a vortex like ball of air in the bed and actually allows air flow going over the top of the truck to glide over. Removing the tailgate or adding covers and such disrupts that unless it's a camper shell that matches the size and body lines of the cab.
Wade is awesome, Wade I installed an aurora 3000 and ats intake and exhaust manifold also the ats boost fooler. I definitely felt the difference and pulled my fifth wheel 7500 pds up through mountains. Although, i again started having downshift problems in an automatic 2001 5.9 . The lots of black smoke. I was losing power. Even when im not pulling and climb different grades my truck wants to slow down. Any suggestions? Im buying a new edge tuner to maybe fix over fueling my new turbo? Just learning. Thank you. You are the best!
Watch a lot of your you tube videos and have a question on my new 2024 ZR2 L5P Duramax 6.6 turbo diesel Bison ! When should I do my first oil change ? 1000 miles or 5000 miles ? And what brand of oil should I use ? Rotella T6 15w -40 , Royal Purple or Mobil 1 full synthetic ?
Congrats on your new truck. I think if it was me, I would probably do the 1000 mile change just to be on the safe side. Oil minder is at 7500 miles on that truck so make sure that you reset it.
Well I installed a KnN air filter, replaced all the injectors with mpg injectors, added a lift pump, replaced the CP4 with a CP3 mpg pump, keep my tires inflated, and drive easy always planning my trips on the wind direction so I'm being pushed, not pushing. I also change my oil every 3,000 miles, use fuel and oil additives.
I have a 2005 Cummins 4×4 2500. I just recently put new Bosch stock injectors, overhauled the head, replaced the exhaust manifold with a high flow two piece, added manual hubs, and rebuilt the steering. It has a tall gear and cruises at 55 mph turning 1800 rpm. I average around 15mpg with this truck. The tires are stock size but pretty aggressive mud/snow tires. I have been thinking about a tuner and about getting a more highway type tire for the summer. Possibility changing the gears. It would be great if there was a two speed rear end I could add for non four wheel drive and empty use. The 2009 Cummins at work pulls 20mpg.
my 07, bone stock used to get 23mpg going 75, 50 50 city highway average was 18.5. Injector went out a couple weeks after i bought the truck and since, 14mpg is my average and im LUCKY to see 16mpg if i keep it under 60. Also used Bosch injectors from O'Reilly's. Im lucky to see 450 miles a tank now, I remember my first full tank got nearly 700 miles!!! Weird, considering 227k miles, well maintained, oils and filters changed regularly. I think next on the list for my 07 is a alignment, new U Joints to replace the 10k miles since neglected ones (Makes my ears ring), and fix whatever the heck is going on with my trans. It just doesn't like 2nd gear...Wish I had the late 07 with a 6.7 and a 6 spd. The 5.9 is great, just not so much the 48RE. Side note, my buddy owns a hot tuned 03 5.9.....6spd manual. that truck gets a incredible 27mpg LOADED going 70mph. lowkey jealous
I have a question. I have '18 ram 3500 dually. 6.7 aiasin 35" mud tires (farm truck) . With all my tools and crap the truck is almost 10k lbs. It's a limited crew cab long bad, so it's already heavy. It's tuned and deleted. I have the 5 position switch. With the 35s spedo and fuel mileage calculator is off about 3mpg. Any tune 1-4, I get 10.Something mpgs, which is about 13 actual. If I run the hot tune, I'm getting 15.Something = over 18mpg. Why? I take good care of it add either Lucas or diesel clean for extra lubricant in the fuel. But why am I getting about 5mpg better with the tuner cranked up? Thanks
The truck depending on the tune is getting more efficient in moving the truck, for lack of a better explanation. If EGT’s stay in check, I would suggest to stay with that tune.
How do you feel about deletes def particularly had had egr cooler replaced , 1 sensor and now I have a def sender error come up 2011 6.7 power stroke nickel and diming me to death well wish it was was nickels and dimes
My truck is a 2001 Dodge 2500 HD with 6 speed manual transmission. I am a CA resident so I am quite limited on what I can upgrade. My mpg driving with no load is 19.2. The very best I have experienced is 19.5. I have done all that Wade has suggested. Looking for suggestions short of relocating to another state.
On my 2001 ram I put a edge drag box on it and that gave me 25 different settings for timing and fuel I was driving 102 miles to work every day and truck used 4 to 4.5 gallons and that was fueling at the same pump I also ran FPC1 in my fuel I delivered to were it was made I looked on the internet a week ago and its still there I think I'm going to stop and get some for my suburban
first time listener i have a 2006 f250 6.o I did a complete bullet proof and arp studs big dog heads what else do you recommend too do on my truck for fuel economy? no lead foot here!
Hey yo to the first time listener. You didn’t mention a tuner, so I am going to suggest a tuner would be a huge improvement to the overall efficiency of the truck. You don’t have to be a leadfoot to take advantage of efficient power!
what the main reason a person buy a diesel truck? diesel truck are not a car! i seen people treat them that way.. it amaze me when people with a diesel truck get to a store or their home and shut the truck off before letting their turbo spin down to idle.. i know most of the dealership sale personals dont explain procedure to start and shut down a diesel truck... i work at auto parts store and heavy equipment for 22 years customers complained about theirs trucks... amazning... love the video everyone who got a diesel need to watch this video..
A kid at work had a Bully Dog pup that had crazy Larry on it for the cheap I wanted for codes and stuff I put it in crazy Larry and dam ! I only did that once because the tires cost too much !
As many lifted, stanced out trucks that blow by me while doing the speed limit on the expressway, there are A LOT of guys, middle finger in the air, that don't care how much fuel they burn.
I just purchased a new refurbished 6.0 long block with the improved head studs from my dealership for my 2005. I had 326,000 miles on the original 6.0, and never towed or abused honestly, but I was told I had a cracked cylinder head, because fuel was in the coolant. The engine ran like a top, even when I let her go. Im considering plugging in my Six Gun tuner into my new engine, but hesitant about it sending codes that the dealership could see and possibly void my new engine 3 yr warranty. I’m a pretty light driver, and don’t abuse my 6.0. If I plug it in, will it automatically send codes that could be discovered by the dealership. I’m not towing, just normal driving. I am curious to feel the extra power on a new bullet proof 6.0? Long winded sorry.
In my opinion, UNLESS it has been trully FULLY bullet -proofed, and if you're not towing much, I personally wouldn't put a tuner on it, especially if it has had a cracked head in the past. That said, because a true bullet proof would result in a new set of heads, or, at the very least, resurfaced, depending on the severity of the crack. Just having varigated studs isn't really going to benefit you much, without other head issues addressed. What is truly bullet proofed, regarding the 6.0? The heads and upgraded bolts have already been addressed; upgraded oil cooler; egr; water pump, and Ficm module. Not just some of the these, but ALL of them. Keep in mind that, due to the engineering oversight, the 6.0 produced too much pressure, with fewer bolts, to handle keeping the heads secured to the block, the 6.0 with it's increased power as the intended performance upgrade from the 7.3. That, along with narower oil channels, just to name a few of the engineering issues. A tuner will just create more back pressure, as you'll be tempted to stomp on it. Recommendation: stay away from the tuner; you have enough performance; or at least, make sure that the rig's been fully, TRULY bullet proofed if you do stick one in it. Otherwise, you're flirting with disaster.
We are by no means tire experts so I don’t know that we’re qualified to answer that one way or another. The point about tire is more focused on proper maintenance of the tire you have.
Changing stock air filters to a better aftermarket air filter…will the 2022 6.9L F250 get better fuel economy? Changing to the Banks Differential Cover(s)…
If only people would stop speeding like dummies they make it tough being a trucker they just HAVE TO HE in front of the truck always me me me mentality
I have a 19 5500 rollback. Averages 11mpg. I'd love to get 15-16. We just went up on tow prices and people are asking why? But my daily 01 gets about 19, with a comp box and some slightly bigger sac Flux injectors.
I think you did a pretty good job Wade. Hit the high points. From a marketing perspective I kind of wish you would drive the point that performance is an exercise of increasing efficiency. The turbo diesel has the benefit of sidestepping the efficiency part jumping straight to increased power. If a guy has a common rail with anything more than a hint of soot they are leaving efficiency on the table. Even the guys that don't care about fuel prices... they care about the power. Every molecule of fuel that exits without providing work is lost power.
There's only one mis accurate thing in this video. Fast acceleration to speed then laying off is a lot better for mpg that slow starts and slowly getting up to speed
Not for my experience. I drive (accelerate) at the pace of an 18-wheeler loaded to-the-hilt with lumber and slow down like wise (brakes of course have nothing to do with acceleration nor fuel economy but do affect how much you change your speed when getting back to cruising speed). Perhaps just me as an individual.
First off i want to say thank you i really love your videos , second is and i apologize if i missed it but you forgot to mention something about service and maintenance on the transmission and drive train for help on efficiency
2001 Dodge 4x4 6spd manual 5.9L HO turbo diesel built for me at the factory. Mods: air filter, FASS lift pump, bigger turbo, entire front end steering replaced with beefy components, air brake, Edge CTS 2 tuner. Tuner set to one, driving 65 on the highways here in Montana, 28mpg. Speed limit is 70-75mph on most HWYs, absolutely see my fuel mpg drop significantly doing just 5 mph less.
The crankcase vents back to the turbo inlet and does not have a filter. We offer a nice filter kit from PPE www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/114027500/ that adds a filter into the mix and separates the oil.
Yes typically larger turbos with out additional fuel decreases MPG. That statement is assuming you drive in town, stop and go a lot. If your truck lives in a different part of the power band typically then you might see an improvement.
Hey Wade if this gig doesn’t work out you might think about being a Monk because you do have the look for that job . Ha. Ha ! I got to much free time on my hands .
I removed mine. In stock form it only got 14 mpg now with the EGR removed and tuned I get 23 on the highway now and 16.5 in town, now that's a big improvement. Next is a lift pump and replace hi and low side with bigger pipes HSP..
On a '05 F350, used mainly for "home maintenance", and highway driving, what would be an approx. milage to change the fuel filters? [assuming quality fuel is used] Thank you for the Exhalent Tutorials!
Changing fuel filters in cheap insurance in my opinion. I like to change fuel filters every other oil change, or every 10,000 miles. Now that might be a little overkill, but again, changing fuel filters is cheap insurance.
There’s no free energy out here, adding a tuner and juicing the thing up won’t save you fuel or money. There’s no free efficiency out there either. Your factory tuning is the best it can be for reliable operation over thousands of miles, if you have to monitor everything so you don’t grenade your engine it’s no good. Straight up your driving style will have the biggest impact. Half a mile per gallon is a major amount of fuel and money when spread over thousands of miles. Ask a trucker, I don’t care how cool your 379 Pete looks, it still uses more fuel and costs you more to operate it.
Iike the way you think... I have 1999 motorhome with cummins 5.9, and I've increased my mpg by doing the same mods I did to my 97 Dodge....with the exception of the fuel pump a d the sucks.... I was able to get right 30mpg out of my truck ...2wd 3/4 manual transmission...no one believes it, but I did. Anyway I got rid of the stock air filter on my mtrhm....it's a wonder it got any air at all....I made my own filter housing and use a KN filter...the. I got an aftermarket muffler, an adjustableift pump. It already had a Banks system (stinger/intake elbow etc)....I went from around 5mpg to closer to 12mpg...not too bad for a 36ft mtrhm....and that pulling a Jeep. I am going to up my tire pressure today ...I had them lower for the ride. BTW people on the forums don't believe what I've done would work...I know it does. Also I have to get it aligned, I have new tires and with the condition of our hwys...well you get the picture .
I was seriously considering a 3.0 Chevy diesel for the mpg, but instead ordered the F150 Lightning Pro this January, to be delivered this summer, good to be off of high priced gas/diesel!
watch out if you have a mechanical injection pump like the vp 44. You will put extra wear on it possible killing it . I know cost me some $$ time and stress. Reason being that there are friction enablers in the atf. I now use some 2 stroke oil when I fill up my trucks..
@@ironmike7339 So how soon? Give me a number or time. My 6.7L V10 said every 100,000 miles… Oh wait a minute that was a gas burner . I know diesel’s last longer may not have to change them for 500,000 miles. What do you think?
Why? My 05 Cummins has all the above with a 6.7 swap and 100 over injections dual pumps and a single 467. My truck gets 18mpg with 35s and 4.56s. set your truck up right with parts that work together and you don't gotta worry. I love the haters of people that make power.
I’ve saved a lot by not doing many mods shown on UA-cam. Stay OEM. Almost all vids showing a mod will “say do this/don’t do this”in the comments. How do you know what’s best?
Iam retired car hauler for GM and started there when I was 23 yrs old and the guys in the shop would always tell us young guys that their is only two ways to kill a diesel and that was RPM & heat .
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more fuel thats what the thought is with diesel no it is, and more fuel lower rpm many not in boost and lower rpm equals better fuel economy
I would love to see a in-depth video continuing on this but on the gasoline side as well .for this is an excellent video . but i would like to see this being brought into on a engine rebuild side and bring out the fuel economy like they did on a article from 1992 4x4 and was called project MPG . and then use that as a base and continue on it as well :) !!
i will be keeping my ears open on this and you vids keep up the good work .
I used to drive around Friday nights with 3 fat girls and a keg of Budweiser. now I can only afford 1 midget and a 6 pack of Natural Lite
😂 Natty!
You ballin bro. I only got da Keystone Lite.
Lmao
That's funny 😂, Damn it Brandon!
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHA
I deleted my DPF, and EGR. Got 5 MPG more on my 6.4. Through the tuner, I lowered the low-pressure fuel to #2 got 1 more MPG, and looks like I got rid of the little bit of black smoke that I had on take-off. Stop-and-go traffic can be hard on that. I still lift off just fine.
Do you mean a 6.7? Can't do a dpf and egr delete on a hemi? 😊
@@nohe4901 he's referring to the 6.4 powerstroke bud
As a truck driver, buy the best tire money can buy.
If you live in the city, you don't need mud tires. Stay away from aggressive tread if you don't need it, they'll require more fuel to turn.
The single most important factor in fuel economy is THE DRIVER. I watch videos talking about Ram Heavy Duty Pickups, and seems not one comes close to the mileage we're getting from our bone stock 2021 Ram 2500 Crew Cab 4wd!!
We CONSISTENTLY average 20mpg (between 19.7 and 20.6). That includes frequent trips to and thru town.
How?? Keep your foot off the accelerator! Train yourself to drive like there's an egg between your foot and the pedal! Hold your speed to 55-60 mph.
It really doesn't make you get there much later, but makes SO MUCH difference in mileage!
Our truck is a stock 2021 Ram 2500 Crew Cab 4X4, 6.7 Cummins, and we always carry around 500#'s under a 200# Leer 180 high top camper shell.
It's not quite as good as what we got with our old 2007 3500 with a 5.9, but actually pretty close. We used to get 18 mpg while pulling a 7500# Travel Trailer, with a cabover work camper that was probably 1500#'s and loaded with around 750#'s of tools.
Please be courteous of others who want to go faster, but that's really not as hard as one might think! (Big rig drivers appreciate when you flash your lights to let them know when they're clear to move back into you lane, etc..)
Yeah, I know "I could NEVER slow down!", but another 150 miles from a tank of fuel is significant!!!
30 gallons X 20 mpg (at under 60 mph)= 600 miles
30 Gallons X 15 mpg (at 70 + mph)= 450 miles
I got in my friends ram 2500 with a 6.7 that's. One stock. I got it to 18.3 average over a tank vs their 12.1 cause they drive it like a hotrod.
@@codyparker679 That's the key! And it makes a SIGNIFICANT difference!! 198 miles farther per tank! Just by taking it easy!
I agree. I've got 270,000 miles with original brakes, fuel pump, injectors, and 68rfe. I average between 21 and 24mpg. But I live in the country, if I go into town mpg goes way down. I drive for that mpg score on the dash, and use a lot of injector cleaner.
Driving habits is another big one; being able to watch ahead and coast up to stop lights for example and never have to truly stop can go a long way.
Precisely. Most UNDERATED COMMENT and driving philosophy.
Saves your brakes some as well.
I have been saving a ton of money on diesel fuel by not driving my truck at all.
Same here if it’s not making money I’m not moving it
27-33mpgs freeway 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins deleted 4x4 crew cab camper shell 6spd 499k KN air filter, stainless Chinese intake, stock tune, stock rims n tires CTS2 & Edge Monitors, clean oil up to 5k. 38cents mile paid for the truck in 300,000!
MAKE DIESELS GREAT AGAIN!!! LGB yeeyeeeee
I agree with the right foot issue. I use cruise control on a trip for better mileage.
Make sure your brakes are not dragging.
4.37 a gallon here in dayton,texas it has gone down a bit, but still needs to go down more!
15 PowerStroke. I can get 12mpg in tune 1 or 19mpg in tune 5. Or vice versa. Right foot plays a huge role. Few mods.
I am very impressed with how Wade presents his thorough understanding of Diesel engines and their complex systems. Watching his many other install videos is very informative and I trust Wade knows a hell of a lot about Diesels. I am pretty sure he could fix the alignment and efficiency of my mother's false teeth, if she could just get an appointment!! :) Almost just kidding (she passed a few years back) But, if I lived anywhere near his shop I would for sure be a customer. I am a new subscriber to the channel and will try to watch all of the videos to learn more !!! Thanks for the great videos !!
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Wrapping the manifolds, up pipe, and a turbo blanket Will improve efficiency by keeping the energy in the system all the way through the turbo. In turn reducing the throttle required to travel at any given speed. Even reduces EGT by putting more air in with the 12,000 rpm increase shaft speed across the entire rpm range.
( the 12k bump was a lab test using a turbo blanket only. )
Remember idling is zero miles per gallon! Don't idle for a long time.
Impossible for diesel drivers.
I use to say if you are worried about fuel economy and drive a diesel then get rid of it and drive a gasser. But now being an owner operator hotshot business fuel mileage is a big thing. What I found a big part of fuel economy efficiency is as simple as where you buy your fuel no matter if you drive a diesel or gasser. I found that Chevron, Phillips 66 and Petro are the best and still yet these are not created equal either. Another thing I look for is if the gasser pump has just the 10% stuff or offer 100% fuel. Diesel quality is best when the station offers 100% gasser fuel. Also look at the color of diesel coming out of the nozzle. I’ve noticed that the diesel at most Loves and Flying J and big fueling stations are like a whisky color not green. I also run hotshot secrets fuel additive which helps big time. Just my two cents I’ve found over the years. As soon as my warranty is up on my 2022 Duramax I will be doing some upgrades and tuning which shouldn’t be much longer. Maybe by the end of the year or early next year.
Great info! Good luck with your upgrades!
If I could bother you to elaborate on "...if the gasser pump has just the 10% stuff or offer 100% fuel. Diesel quality is best when the station offers 100% gasser fuel." I don't follow what you mean?
@@tattooedmillionair what I mean is that if a fuel station has only 10% ethanol fuel at the pumps then their diesel is Biodiesel which means the cetane in the diesel is lower. Which in turn you will burn more fuel. If I put biodiesel in will mean I will have to stop and fill about 70 miles to 100 miles or sooner than filling with better quality fuel.
@@screamingeagle9553 nice - Thank you!
@@tattooedmillionair you’re welcome! I also use hotshot secrets diesel extreme fuel additive. Even though owners manual states not to use any additives I’ve been using since 25 miles. You can also check quality by color. Lime sherbet/ green jolly rancher color is good and a dark tint with green is pretty dirty I usually stop pumping and fill at another station. Also if you see a semi tankers filling the stations tanks go to another station. The force of the tanker filling stirs up settlements.
Been running my 97 dodge 3500 since new and fuel efficiency has been my main priority since day1. Mileage would go from 25 to 19 mpg when tire pressure would drop 10lbs. Maintenance is key
So what is the optimal tire tire pressure? I run a 2005 Dodge ram 3500
Note: I've just been going by the manufacturer recommended tire pressures
@@David-ub2iz Maximum pressure. Expect tire wear to increase down the center though. I never run factory tire pressure. I run what the tire manufacture recommends based on the weight.
@@That_Handle I'm not reading all of your dribble... maximum pressure is always going to be lowest rolling resistance. Tire pressure is to be measured while the tire is at ambient temp. The subsequent rise in pressure due to heat does not matter. Dollars to donuts you restate points I've made in a few sentences that took you two paragraphs.
With my 91.5 D250 I can't and won't run the pressure on the data plate, 35psi front ( only wears the sholders) 80psi rear( only tuches the center 2.5" of 7" tread[235/85r16]). empty I run 65/50, loaded I adjust for even tread contact/ temperature using a IR temp gun. Tire man was astounded that I got 60k mi out of a set of 50k mi tires. Most get 25-30k on same setup. Yes it is a hassle to deal with but 1200 every 2 years is better than 2400-3600 in the same time.
All that said 2psi low on 1 tire costs me 4mpg ,dropping from 24-26 to 22.
I went from delo 400 15/40to Amsoil heaven duty diesel 5/30 and picked up 3 miles per gallon in my built 06’ 5.9l Cummins with smeding diesel compound 2nd gen kit and lots and lots of other thing including FASS 150 and Idustrials bag of parts and so on and so on at around 800whp oil alone can cost more now but saves you a lot down the road!
I got a second generation 12 valve I had for ever . It's got 215 k or so miles on it ..I had it since 98 . When I bought it I got 16 miles to gallon. Was a dog also. Tried several things then timing . I went to 18 deg in spite of all the negative things I was told . First off it ran a lot better . Mileage went to 21 . Huge difference. . I did the timing myself with a snap on kit . I drive for mileage . I run with my tires aired up . Now that I have done the g56 conversion I think mileage may be a bit better especially around town ..I run 215 injectors with the thin washers . . I don't care about hp . Mine runs good enough. Thanks for your videos
Glad to hear and thank you!
The best is to change gears on your Differential. If you got the horsepower use it to your advantage
I maintain my diesel and run tuning. Main thing I see by me is larger tires. Larger tires = worse mpg. Also guys hammering their diesels around town. Easy on the throttle helps!
great video. As a transporter fuel efficiency is everything. I have a ram 3500 with selectable tuning, edge insight, fleece lift pump, s&k air intake, and upgrade turbo. Everything you talked about is spot on. I have noticed when towing a heavy load if I switch to a hotter tune I will gain about 2 more mpg empty I back it off. Always looking for more ways to improve.
you did mention the most important part!! DRIVE YOUR DIESEL WITH LOWEST BOOST POSSIBLE !!! [ LOW BOOST === LOW FUEL ] !!!!!
This video is extremely underrated! Very well put together and informative!
Thank you!
We have a 2001dodge diesel 4x4 automatic transmission 5.9 not to many options for us , I am running a smarty S03, aurora 3000 turbo, 4 inch exhaust, did upgrad the air cleaner, fass fuel pump, all u joints replaced. We are retired towing around 10,000 travel trailer.
I do have to say.. to get some better fuel mileage .. clean fuel! number 1.. good street tires with good air pressures! number 2...drive responsibly! number 3...
Im looking into putting a catchcan on. Keeping all that crap out of the engine and off the turbo fins is paramount to longevity. Love to see a video of catchcan installment in a 6.4. Im sure it will requier empting often. But better out than in
Best way to get more MPG is to vote Republican 🤷🏻♂️
Please explain to the people how that will improve vehicle efficiency.
I have a fjb stuck in my fuel system.
I think you mean “best way to obtain cheaper fuel”. I suspect whoever you vote for isn’t capable of increasing a vehicle’s fuel economy.
@@Thumpr110 You got it. 3 years ago I was paying 1,69 in Massachusetts a gallon and never worried about fuel efficiency. Now I'm paying 6,00 a gallon in California and it hurts.
@@ShainAndrews You don't even worry about fuel efficiency when you pay cheap gas.
biggest bang for the buck with the 12 valve / early 24 valve cummins i've seen is a camshaft that boosts cylinder pressures , nox emissions will go up but millage will also go way up , a easy 2 - 3 mpg
Actually it's been proven in wind tunnel testing and 3D modeling that an empty truck bed with the tail gate up is the most aerodynamic a truck will get. The tailgate and bed create a vortex like ball of air in the bed and actually allows air flow going over the top of the truck to glide over. Removing the tailgate or adding covers and such disrupts that unless it's a camper shell that matches the size and body lines of the cab.
Wade is awesome,
Wade I installed an aurora 3000 and ats intake and exhaust manifold also the ats boost fooler. I definitely felt the difference and pulled my fifth wheel 7500 pds up through mountains. Although, i again started having downshift problems in an automatic 2001 5.9 . The lots of black smoke. I was losing power. Even when im not pulling and climb different grades my truck wants to slow down. Any suggestions? Im buying a new edge tuner to maybe fix over fueling my new turbo? Just learning. Thank you. You are the best!
I bet if I take the mirrors off my 2002 dodge I gain 2 mpg easy
Now this guy is thinking with his head! 🍻
Watch a lot of your you tube videos and have a question on my new 2024 ZR2 L5P Duramax 6.6 turbo diesel Bison ! When should I do my first oil change ? 1000 miles or 5000 miles ? And what brand of oil should I use ? Rotella T6 15w -40 , Royal Purple or Mobil 1 full synthetic ?
Congrats on your new truck. I think if it was me, I would probably do the 1000 mile change just to be on the safe side. Oil minder is at 7500 miles on that truck so make sure that you reset it.
I've monkey around with my 2013 LML Duramax some. I'm averaging just over 23mpg.
Please elaborate details of how you accomplish that?
Well I installed a KnN air filter, replaced all the injectors with mpg injectors, added a lift pump, replaced the CP4 with a CP3 mpg pump, keep my tires inflated, and drive easy always planning my trips on the wind direction so I'm being pushed, not pushing. I also change my oil every 3,000 miles, use fuel and oil additives.
Great video made a lot of sense I had trainings that didn’t cover as much keep em coming
Thanks! Will do.
I got worse mileage with #1 diesel over #2 ..So I’ll be relying on my additive thru the cold months verses “premium diesel “.
I have a 2005 Cummins 4×4 2500. I just recently put new Bosch stock injectors, overhauled the head, replaced the exhaust manifold with a high flow two piece, added manual hubs, and rebuilt the steering. It has a tall gear and cruises at 55 mph turning 1800 rpm. I average around 15mpg with this truck. The tires are stock size but pretty aggressive mud/snow tires. I have been thinking about a tuner and about getting a more highway type tire for the summer. Possibility changing the gears. It would be great if there was a two speed rear end I could add for non four wheel drive and empty use. The 2009 Cummins at work pulls 20mpg.
my 07, bone stock used to get 23mpg going 75, 50 50 city highway average was 18.5. Injector went out a couple weeks after i bought the truck and since, 14mpg is my average and im LUCKY to see 16mpg if i keep it under 60. Also used Bosch injectors from O'Reilly's. Im lucky to see 450 miles a tank now, I remember my first full tank got nearly 700 miles!!! Weird, considering 227k miles, well maintained, oils and filters changed regularly.
I think next on the list for my 07 is a alignment, new U Joints to replace the 10k miles since neglected ones (Makes my ears ring), and fix whatever the heck is going on with my trans. It just doesn't like 2nd gear...Wish I had the late 07 with a 6.7 and a 6 spd. The 5.9 is great, just not so much the 48RE.
Side note, my buddy owns a hot tuned 03 5.9.....6spd manual. that truck gets a incredible 27mpg LOADED going 70mph. lowkey jealous
I've got free weight reduction in the form of rust.
Natures built in fuel saver. Love it. 😅
Divorce helps a lot for saving excess weight ! Ha Ha !!
@@brentmcmahon8188 yeah but that's expensive.
Eventually it’ll help with that broken AC letting a little breeze threw
Cab corners? Rocker panels? What are those?? Haha
Excellent presentation thank you for your time posting this information.
Glad it was helpful!
Another forgotten item is a/c service, a well serviced a/c sistem will make your truck efficient in the summer time
I have a question. I have '18 ram 3500 dually. 6.7 aiasin 35" mud tires (farm truck) . With all my tools and crap the truck is almost 10k lbs. It's a limited crew cab long bad, so it's already heavy. It's tuned and deleted. I have the 5 position switch. With the 35s spedo and fuel mileage calculator is off about 3mpg. Any tune 1-4, I get 10.Something mpgs, which is about 13 actual. If I run the hot tune, I'm getting 15.Something = over 18mpg. Why? I take good care of it add either Lucas or diesel clean for extra lubricant in the fuel. But why am I getting about 5mpg better with the tuner cranked up?
Thanks
The truck depending on the tune is getting more efficient in moving the truck, for lack of a better explanation. If EGT’s stay in check, I would suggest to stay with that tune.
How do you feel about deletes def particularly had had egr cooler replaced , 1 sensor and now I have a def sender error come up 2011 6.7 power stroke nickel and diming me to death well wish it was was nickels and dimes
These systems are getting more efficient every day, and diagnosis of the system isn't impossible. Illegal to remove the components from the truck.
My truck is a 2001 Dodge 2500 HD with 6 speed manual transmission. I am a CA resident so I am quite limited on what I can upgrade. My mpg driving with no load is 19.2. The very best I have experienced is 19.5. I have done all that Wade has suggested. Looking for suggestions short of relocating to another state.
On my 2001 ram I put a edge drag box on it and that gave me 25 different settings for timing and fuel I was driving 102 miles to work every day and truck used 4 to 4.5 gallons and that was fueling at the same pump I also ran FPC1 in my fuel I delivered to were it was made I looked on the internet a week ago and its still there I think I'm going to stop and get some for my suburban
Thanks for the additional ideas.
A weight reduction will take you from 16 mpg to 21 mpg. Not talking about the weight you carry. Letting these things breath works wonders.
first time listener i have a 2006 f250 6.o I did a complete bullet proof and arp studs big dog heads what else do you recommend too do on my truck for fuel economy? no lead foot here!
Hey yo to the first time listener. You didn’t mention a tuner, so I am going to suggest a tuner would be a huge improvement to the overall efficiency of the truck. You don’t have to be a leadfoot to take advantage of efficient power!
Keep a fuel log. Doing so on my 91.5 will call out a problem with reduced mileage showing up.
15 PowerStroke 10-20mpg. Full Pusher intake piping and cold air intake with Sinister diesel filter, SPE disaster prevention kit with exo filter, Hsm fuel filter adapter and Baldwin filter, SPE ccv reroute, SPE coolant reroute, SPE cool thermostat, FASS 220gph lift pump, new cp4, fuel lines, fuel rail, sensors, Sinister coolant reroute, deleted, full exhaust, SOTF Tunes, and a few others.
I’m gonna need a Wade Bobble Head after seeing this thumbnail. Please make those available on the website.
what the main reason a person buy a diesel truck? diesel truck are not a car! i seen people treat them that way.. it amaze me when people with a diesel truck get to a store or their home and shut the truck off before letting their turbo spin down to idle.. i know most of the dealership sale personals dont explain procedure to start and shut down a diesel truck... i work at auto parts store and heavy equipment for 22 years customers complained about theirs trucks... amazning... love the video everyone who got a diesel need to watch this video..
A kid at work had a Bully Dog pup that had crazy Larry on it for the cheap I wanted for codes and stuff I put it in crazy Larry and dam ! I only did that once because the tires cost too much !
As many lifted, stanced out trucks that blow by me while doing the speed limit on the expressway, there are A LOT of guys, middle finger in the air, that don't care how much fuel they burn.
Wheel bearings, u joints, axle fluids, brakes dragging...things commonly overlooked
I just purchased a new refurbished 6.0 long block with the improved head studs from my dealership for my 2005. I had 326,000 miles on the original 6.0, and never towed or abused honestly, but I was told I had a cracked cylinder head, because fuel was in the coolant. The engine ran like a top, even when I let her go. Im considering plugging in my Six Gun tuner into my new engine, but hesitant about it sending codes that the dealership could see and possibly void my new engine 3 yr warranty. I’m a pretty light driver, and don’t abuse my 6.0. If I plug it in, will it automatically send codes that could be discovered by the dealership. I’m not towing, just normal driving. I am curious to feel the extra power on a new bullet proof 6.0? Long winded sorry.
On a new motor I would run it for a year on regular oil and the second year Amsoil then your good for 450 + k
In my opinion, UNLESS it has been trully FULLY bullet -proofed, and if you're not towing much, I personally wouldn't put a tuner on it, especially if it has had a cracked head in the past. That said, because a true bullet proof would result in a new set of heads, or, at the very least, resurfaced, depending on the severity of the crack. Just having varigated studs isn't really going to benefit you much, without other head issues addressed.
What is truly bullet proofed, regarding the 6.0? The heads and upgraded bolts have already been addressed; upgraded oil cooler; egr; water pump, and Ficm module. Not just some of the these, but ALL of them. Keep in mind that, due to the engineering oversight, the 6.0 produced too much pressure, with fewer bolts, to handle keeping the heads secured to the block, the 6.0 with it's increased power as the intended performance upgrade from the 7.3. That, along with narower oil channels, just to name a few of the engineering issues. A tuner will just create more back pressure, as you'll be tempted to stomp on it. Recommendation: stay away from the tuner; you have enough performance; or at least, make sure that the rig's been fully, TRULY bullet proofed if you do stick one in it. Otherwise, you're flirting with disaster.
No
Do narrower and taller tires help with fuel economy? Also are their different hardness of rubber to be aware of?
We are by no means tire experts so I don’t know that we’re qualified to answer that one way or another. The point about tire is more focused on proper maintenance of the tire you have.
@@thoroughbreddiesel got it. Thank you. Appreciate all your insights!
Narrower improves efficiency. Taller is a different animal as it affects the final ratio and is a trade off.
Wider or heavier tires will require a bit more fuel to move.
It's the only way you're gonna get better mileage is to drive like you're not an idiot keep your foot out of it God-bless everyone
Ya, Take your foot of the right pedal!
What helps my smiles per gallon on my tuned and deleted L5P duramax is leaving it on the 220 hp race tune.
Changing stock air filters to a better aftermarket air filter…will the 2022 6.9L F250 get better fuel economy? Changing to the Banks Differential Cover(s)…
Hello, you seem to use oil and fuel interchangeably. Please explain
Speaking of changing filter and overall maintenance of the truck or car as it relates to overall efficiency.
amazing video man, thank you for the advice :))
You're welcome!
If only people would stop speeding like dummies they make it tough being a trucker they just HAVE TO HE in front of the truck always me me me mentality
I have a 19 5500 rollback. Averages 11mpg. I'd love to get 15-16. We just went up on tow prices and people are asking why?
But my daily 01 gets about 19, with a comp box and some slightly bigger sac Flux injectors.
Yeah this guy knows his shit thanks for the advice
What you recommend on brakes on f350 2012 dully
Get it deleted + 5-7 mpg sometimes close to 10 with a good tune😊
Hp + differential gear = tune
Never lug the engine when pulling or ascending a hill
I think you did a pretty good job Wade. Hit the high points. From a marketing perspective I kind of wish you would drive the point that performance is an exercise of increasing efficiency. The turbo diesel has the benefit of sidestepping the efficiency part jumping straight to increased power. If a guy has a common rail with anything more than a hint of soot they are leaving efficiency on the table. Even the guys that don't care about fuel prices... they care about the power. Every molecule of fuel that exits without providing work is lost power.
SCR and NOX sensors. You didn’t mention.
Correct. Any false readings will affect fuel economy.
What about the exhaust pipes starting at the down pipe
Exhaust upgrades have been known to increase efficiency as well. Better flow will get better efficiency up to a certain threshold.
There's only one mis accurate thing in this video. Fast acceleration to speed then laying off is a lot better for mpg that slow starts and slowly getting up to speed
Thanks :)
Not for my experience. I drive (accelerate) at the pace of an 18-wheeler loaded to-the-hilt with lumber and slow down like wise (brakes of course have nothing to do with acceleration nor fuel economy but do affect how much you change your speed when getting back to cruising speed). Perhaps just me as an individual.
First off i want to say thank you i really love your videos , second is and i apologize if i missed it but you forgot to mention something about service and maintenance on the transmission and drive train for help on efficiency
2001 Dodge 4x4 6spd manual 5.9L HO turbo diesel built for me at the factory. Mods: air filter, FASS lift pump, bigger turbo, entire front end steering replaced with beefy components, air brake, Edge CTS 2 tuner. Tuner set to one, driving 65 on the highways here in Montana, 28mpg. Speed limit is 70-75mph on most HWYs, absolutely see my fuel mpg drop significantly doing just 5 mph less.
Ok so you wanted to brag on how Awsome your truck is
@@rogerm6069 Absolutely! I didn’t mention there is less than 100k miles on her 😁
Does the Duramax LMM have a PCV filter?
The crankcase vents back to the turbo inlet and does not have a filter. We offer a nice filter kit from PPE www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/114027500/ that adds a filter into the mix and separates the oil.
Boost leak checks
Will a slightly larger than stock turbo have a direct effect on fuel mileage?
Yes typically larger turbos with out additional fuel decreases MPG. That statement is assuming you drive in town, stop and go a lot. If your truck lives in a different part of the power band typically then you might see an improvement.
Hey Wade if this gig doesn’t work out you might think about being a Monk because you do have the look for that job . Ha. Ha ! I got to much free time on my hands .
Three things cannot be long hidden: the sun, the moon, and diesel fuel prices.
Where are you. Located
4843 Rockwell Rd.
Winchester, KY 40391
Remove all emissions
I removed mine. In stock form it only got 14 mpg now with the EGR removed and tuned I get 23 on the highway now and 16.5 in town, now that's a big improvement. Next is a lift pump and replace hi and low side with bigger pipes HSP..
@@foamflyer1 it's amazing that equipment intended to help the environment causes 8 gallons of extra fuel to be burned to save the rain forest.
Ram 6.7, use green turbo brake not yellow...
On a '05 F350, used mainly for "home maintenance", and highway driving, what would be an approx. milage to change the fuel filters? [assuming quality fuel is used] Thank you for the Exhalent Tutorials!
Changing fuel filters in cheap insurance in my opinion. I like to change fuel filters every other oil change, or every 10,000 miles. Now that might be a little overkill, but again, changing fuel filters is cheap insurance.
There’s no free energy out here, adding a tuner and juicing the thing up won’t save you fuel or money. There’s no free efficiency out there either. Your factory tuning is the best it can be for reliable operation over thousands of miles, if you have to monitor everything so you don’t grenade your engine it’s no good. Straight up your driving style will have the biggest impact. Half a mile per gallon is a major amount of fuel and money when spread over thousands of miles. Ask a trucker, I don’t care how cool your 379 Pete looks, it still uses more fuel and costs you more to operate it.
I recently took all the dpf and egr off my 1995 dodge ram didn’t seem to make a difference. ( this is joke I never had it
What’s this “egr” you speak of. Never heard of her
I put in a. Transfer tank in and it’s killing me now
Iike the way you think...
I have 1999 motorhome with cummins 5.9, and I've increased my mpg by doing the same mods I did to my 97 Dodge....with the exception of the fuel pump a d the sucks....
I was able to get right 30mpg out of my truck ...2wd 3/4 manual transmission...no one believes it, but I did.
Anyway I got rid of the stock air filter on my mtrhm....it's a wonder it got any air at all....I made my own filter housing and use a KN filter...the. I got an aftermarket muffler, an adjustableift pump. It already had a Banks system (stinger/intake elbow etc)....I went from around 5mpg to closer to 12mpg...not too bad for a 36ft mtrhm....and that pulling a Jeep.
I am going to up my tire pressure today ...I had them lower for the ride.
BTW people on the forums don't believe what I've done would work...I know it does.
Also I have to get it aligned, I have new tires and with the condition of our hwys...well you get the picture .
What did you do to get your dodge mileage to that
What I found to work the best is buying a prius
😂
I was seriously considering a 3.0 Chevy diesel for the mpg, but instead ordered the F150 Lightning Pro this January, to be delivered this summer, good to be off of high priced gas/diesel!
You’ll see a massive increase in fuel efficiency if you drive downhill wherever you go.
😂
Here's one more. Back off the Ol-throttle, slow it up a bit. Cruuuuuz
One quart of Ford ATF in your diesel fuel will give you an extra hundred miles been telling dumbasses this forever makes the fuel more combustible
watch out if you have a mechanical injection pump like the vp 44. You will put extra wear on it possible killing it . I know cost me some $$ time and stress.
Reason being that there are friction enablers in the atf. I now use some 2 stroke oil when I fill up my trucks..
Want to save money on fuel , change your spark plugs on a regular basis!😂
Diesel’s have spark plugs? So what brand do you use? I need to be as smart as you.
@@TonyBenton0728 I’m not sure , but I know they need to be changed soon thou!🤮
@@ironmike7339 So how soon? Give me a number or time. My 6.7L V10 said every 100,000 miles… Oh wait a minute that was a gas burner . I know diesel’s last longer may not have to change them for 500,000 miles. What do you think?
Pick your routes so that you are running downhill both ways.
Black diesel/idi
I bet the forums are on fire right now. All of these guys with big lifts, tires, injectors, turbo.
Why? My 05 Cummins has all the above with a 6.7 swap and 100 over injections dual pumps and a single 467. My truck gets 18mpg with 35s and 4.56s. set your truck up right with parts that work together and you don't gotta worry. I love the haters of people that make power.
@@joshuaquilliam2887 18... you are bragging about 18....
I just stick to stock. I can't afford to lift it and don't know I would if I could. Save money so I can eat.
My Chevy weighs 11,257 lbs loaded up on tools
I’ve saved a lot by not doing many mods shown on UA-cam. Stay OEM. Almost all vids showing a mod will “say do this/don’t do this”in the comments. How do you know what’s best?
Trial and error because all trucks and driving styles are different.
Keep your speed to 25mph..
If you don't believe me try it I've done it if I ever owned a diesel I'll do it again
Dam Wade you look and sound like Gale Banks !
Thank you. Would go toe to toe any day he wants. Bring it! 😁
Iam retired car hauler for GM and started there when I was 23 yrs old and the guys in the shop would always tell us young guys that their is only two ways to kill a diesel and that was RPM & heat .