2010 Lexus RX 350 Tensioner Pulley, Idler and Serpentine Belt Replacement, 120000 mile service
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- My 2010 Lexus RX 350 just turned 120000 miles and I'm going to be doing a series of videos showing all the maintenance that needs to be done. In this video, I'm replacing the serpentine belt along with the tensioner pulley and idler pulley.
Here are links to the parts and tools:
Gearwrench Serpentine Belt Kit - amzn.to/3dFyceU
Serpentine Belt - amzn.to/3dKY0ag
Idler Pulley - amzn.to/35gEE9i
Tensioner Pulley (The Febest one is gone but here is another one that works, use the original bolt) - amzn.to/47hsbAc
Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2YeMxIG
Alright... for today you are my hero. I've been putting off this job for a couple of months.
Had my 2007 RX350 in the garage and ready for the dreaded 8 hours to change all pulleys and tensioner assembly.... I'm like, why not check UA-cam one last time (11:30pm)... maybe just maybe somebody has a better trick! And voile, you my friend, saved me 7 hours. (Done at 12:09am... just did it in less than an hour)
I was able to change all 3 pulleys and belt in less than one hour. I took the pulley from the tensioner assembly from Ebay and just swapped it with one already on the engine tensioner without removing the entire tensioner assembly (bolt clockwise). Was quoted ($1600 at Lexus and $1200 as local garage to replace).... Ended up $129 for all 3 pulleys and belt + 1 hour. Thank you so much! 235k miles and running strong... New subscriber!
Nice job!
You are an absolute life saver. I had to do a warranty job because I missed the noisy pulley when doing the water pump. Just saved me so much time I have to eat for not paying enough attention. Much appreciated 👍
Glad it helped!
This was the most helpful video I have seen so far. I needed to know if the upper idler pulley bolt was left handed or right handed threads and you clarified that the idler is normal right handed threads and the tensioner is in fact left handed threads. I am replacing the thermostat in my 2009 RX350 and need to remove the idler pulley in order to gain access to the two 10mm bolts that attach the inlet pipe/thermostat housing onto the engine block. Thank you for your clarification. 👍👍👍
Glad I was able to help!
Thanks for taking the time to video. I'm changing a noisy tensioner pulley on my wife's 2007 RX350 and this verifies I ordered the right pulley before I tear into it. The 2007 does have two idler pulleys like you bought, it has a second one to the left of the crank pulley where the belt continues over to the power steering pump which the 2010 and newer don't have since they're electric power steering.
Glad it was helpful, I'm about to start the plugs, brakes, and rotors next. Stay tuned!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video!! Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
It's easier to slip the belt off the top pulley (#2 in the diagram) with your right hand while you're pushing the tentioner tool with the left hand. Pulley #2 is first off and last on, so you don't have to go push the tentioner to its maximum range. Great video and thanks.
Ya I tried following that diagram but for whatever reason I couldn't get it.
Love the videos! I have a 2004 RX330 with almost 200k miles and a 2012 RX350 with 119k.
I try to do most of the fluid and filter changes myself. I know the belt, started squeaking on cold starts, and spark plugs need changing. But that’s too advanced for me.
I love my RX350, but have been toying with the idea of replacing with a new (er) RX. Love Lexus/Toyota. Looked at Acura and Infiniti when I got the ‘12, no comparison.
I love the auto high beams, the remote window roll up by holding the unlock button, and using the Manuel key to lock/ roll up windows. I had the dealer change the life gate to power open by pressing rubber pad on door, like the new ones.
I love the auto highbeams on my 2010 RX! And I also had the dealer program the back tailgate the same way a long time ago😁
@@eleanormassaro5195 haha, we had auto dimming high beams on a 1981 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz. I have a 2009 Lexus RX350 and I don't think it has auto high beams but I do Love the vehicle. I also have a 2000 RX300 and absolutely Love that vehicle also. 👍👍👍
Just did idle pulley and tensioner pulley on my 2008 lexus 350 with 275k KM and it went really well. Didn’t need the serpentine wrench tool. The only thing is that I broke a corner of the tensioner hole so careful with that. It took me about an hour. The garage quote me 1200$ CA but I dit it for 170$.
I broke my tensioner hole too. :-)
Be sure to check your VIN no. In my case the part numbers are different for a rx350 2010. Good video for explaining how to. Thank you
Hmm, i'm not sure how they could be different if it's the same engine.
For the ES 350 was pretty easy to get belt swapped off and on with just a standard socket set from underneath. Eventually I might need to do idler pulley bearing I think though.
Ya it would have been much easier if I was just doing the idler pulley
@Andrew Jack Just did the belt around 80k miles at 108k no issues..was 7 year old belt that wasnt in good shape. I think I did with wheel just turned to the left and can reach tensioner from underneath the car. Wasn't that difficult a job if you take your time and Map belt route well.
@Andrew Jack I didn't change either idler pulley. The belt was causing a tick noise once car was warm and its been away for years with the new belt on.
thanks for your video and very helpful. one questions is what is the part# for "tensioner pulley only, without tensioner" and where did you buy it?
All the links are in the video description! Probably Amazon
Thanks. I did this same job on my Sienna V6 with same engine and was easier to loosen tension from below with a long 14 mm wrench and then insert allen key into tensioner hole. My Harbor freight Serpentine Belt tool works better on my Honda V6.
Thats cool. I ended up returning the Harbor Freight tool and really liked the Gearwrench version better.
Hello, curious on the long-term performance of the Febest tensioner pulley you got from Amazon. Any issues with it? Thanks in advance.
It's all good still! I'm glad because there really was no other option that I could find.
Hi, can you give the part number for each idler pulley? Where did you get the second one that you showed the different lip on? Did uou have to buy bearings or did they come with the pulleys?
Hi, all the parts I used are in the video description!
Do you use that artic freeze on your RX? I really don't wanna go to the dealer for a recharge but I've not heard good things about the off-the-shelf stuff. I try to use genuine parts whenever possible too... Thanks for your videos! I envy your lack of rust - mines an '11 with 120k and I had to cut my rear shocks out and the bolt in the lower mount just spun as it was rusted to the inner shock sleeve that broke free from the rubber.
Oh man that's no fun, you could take it to a muffler shop and have them weld a new shock plate on. Regarding the refrigerant, I almost always use OEM parts because I trust the Denso brand that Toyota uses, however, the HVAC system uses R134A, a standard refrigerant so I don't have any issue using it.
Hello thank you for all your tutorials, do you have the pulley tightening torque?
30ft pounds is what I've read. Glad you are getting something out of it!
Thanks sir.
I recently did mine. It was painful 😅
I did it from underneath
Yeah, it wasn't my favorite job I've done, but I bet it was harder to do from below
Thanks for the great video!
Glad I could help
I may have missed it but why did you replace the pulleys? I presume you did all this because you heard squeaking or squealing located to the drivebelt area. Did you spin the pulleys in the video with the belt off to see if it still squealed? I've found that many times squealing goes away with a new belt b/c the old one is loose and old that causes the squealing, especially with a toyota/lexus with only 120k miles, it would be odd that a part like that would be worn out....Also, I know I didn't come with it on the bolt but a little blue threadlocker wouldn't hurt.
keep up the work and stay safe.
I replaced the pulleys because I don't want to have to take it apart again to replace them later. They're cheap enough.
You can order the Japanese NSK 6203DDU or Koyo 6203-2RS bearings online and press out the old ones and press in the new ones if you are comfortable doing that too!
That’s an option!
The L bolt supplied for the tensioner pulley he uses is the wrong diameter. Had to use the existing one. Didn't feel like returning although the existing bolt kinda chewed up. Thanks for the tip tho.
Yeah I think I may have used the original bolt.
Where did you get the other pulley from for the tensioner?
From Amazon, I put all the links in the description
i just pull the tensioner pulley back far enough to push a small bolt into the hole provided in the block to keep the ten.pulley in the unlocked position
I tried that end ended up breaking something
No need for any fancy tools
3/8 shorter ratchet and 14mm socket does the trick 👍🏻
Nice, I tried so many options already that didn't work
You gave the link to amazon for the tensioner pulley but the description for that item on amazon says idler pulley. Is that pulley the correct one for the tensioner pulley on my 2007 Sienna.
Hi, I just double checked and those links are still good and for the correct parts on the 2010 RX350. Whether they fit your minivan I can't say
Awesome job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome video -Can you please clarify - if I buy two identical pulleys - two idler pulleys- one can replace the tensioner pulley and one can replace the idler pulley. The tensioner is reverse threaded and the idler is not right? Is this all correct? Can you clarify using the Allen wrench? Is that to hold the tensioner pulley so you can remove it (reverse thread remember)? thanks!
Hi, you can't buy two identical pulleys because the tensioner one is special, you either have to buy the special one I linked to or buy the whole assembly which is harder to replace. If I remember correctly the idler pulley was reverse threaded, and yes the Allen key is to hold the tensioner so you can pull off the idler bolt.
Carolina Cowboys thanks! I understand now. Only thing I think is I need two idler pulleys and one special tensioner pulley. I have hydraulic power steering which I believe requires another idler - hence 2 idlers. The tensioned is reverse threaded due to its need to stay tightened when forcing it counterclockwise. I ordered all the stuff you mentioned. Thanks again.
@@condor5635 good luck with the install!
@@CarolinaCowboys - Job went super well. Replaced both idler pulley’s and the tensioner pulley. I bought the Gearwrench kit as well and found it very nice. One trick I learned on getting the most pull on the tensioner. Get yourself some para cord about 24 inches long. Fold it in half and make a larks head in the middle and put it on the gear wrench neck. With the 14 mm socket installed you can let the wrench fall on its own weight forward towards the headlight. This will allow you to get several clicks at which point you can pull the paracord towards the firewall which will take up a lot of the tension and allow you to then engage the red handled bar to take it all the way giving you plenty of room to install the belt. I also found that that hole it’s totally useless in my experience for tightening the pulley bolt. The reason being once you go through that hole there’s no hole on the engine block the locks it in place. There’s just a gap of an inch before it actually engages with some thing that will hold it in place. I actually broke the little metal hole off when I had a Allen head in the hole when I initially tried to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. I put Loctite on the bolt anyway so with the strong torque on tensioning and the Loctite it’s very secure. The technique with the para cord makes doing the entire tensioning and reinstalling from the top very easy and straightforward. Although I had another person underneath putting the belt around the crank as the final pulley for completion, I could have tied off the paracord and gotten below and done it myself. Anyway great technique to make this job very easy. Thanks for posting and recommending the gear wrench set
@@condor5635 Nice job! For the record I broke off the little retainer when using the allen key as well. Glad everything worked out and yes that gear wrench was a life saver!
If I just started hearing whinning on my 2010 Lexus ES 350 at 93k I just started hearing it Saturday I have a appointment for the 21st of this month it should be fine to drive till then the noise goes away after like 5 min from a cold start in the morning it’s for sure my belt tensioner
Ya that's what it sounds like
GREAT VIDEO GREAT CONTENT.
Much appreciated
Hi is it possible to have the part number for the tensioner pulley thanks for the video 👍
Here you go - amzn.to/30hpQX9 all the links are in my video descriptions
@@CarolinaCowboys thank you for your help really appreciate it 👍
Thanks I've been dealing with the noise for more than a year, thanks for the part number!
How's your tensioner pulley hold up so far? I've researched about the tensioner pulley and somebody said it's made in China is that true? Is there any other alternative products such as 'KOYO'??
It's working fine, but here's the thing, the OE solution is to replace the entire tensioner pulley assembly which requires you to remove the HVAC compressor. This was the only pulley I could find on the internet that was to the spec that I needed to replace just the pulley itself. Yes it's made in China and I had that same thought on the quality. From the looks of it, it looked like good quality but I will just have to wait and see if it starts making any noise.
@@CarolinaCowboys Thank you for reply me back. Yeah it's really odd design..I definitely avoid remove ac compressor..
I'm just worry about 'China' quality.
I just found that other people says
16603-0P030 this can be used for the tensioner pulley, what's your opinion about this?
Very nice video but what is with the flip flops?
It's kindof a habit to wear in the garage :-)
Thank you! I have been trying to find the tensioner pulley by itself.
I put a link in the description!
How well has the after market tensioner pulley held up?
So far so good, no noises or anything. I was mostly worried about that because it's like the ONLY option outside of replacing the entire assembly, but so far so good.
*******Please...please...please..where did you find that pulley? Everyone I call wants to sell me the whole tensioner assembly.
Hi, I always put links in my video descriptions!
@@CarolinaCowboys Thanks guy, your video solved my problem. Thanks. I subscribed and liked the video. Now, I can get my ES350 back on the road.
Use a Harbor Freight ratchet sku #67994 from underneath About $30. Works great!
Ya that could work!
Here's the part number for the replacement pulley Pulley Idler Kit Febest 0187-GSU45 Oem 16620-31031
Thanks, this is what I have linked in the video description
Man my es350 did not have a washer the original one has it integrated. Now i have to wait 3 days.
Yeah
Do u know what you are doing
I pretend that I do
Honestly you don’t need any special tools to get onto the tensioner pulley! Take a 14mm wrench 🔧 put it on tensioner pulley and turn it - Bingo you can get the belt off you also have to do from bottom as your fighting with no room on top
If you can take off your idler pulley without releasing the tensioner pulley you're belt is probably not tight enough
@@CarolinaCowboys belt is tight but your method is from a backyard mechanic lol 😂
I’m a licensed technician 👩🔧 you don’t need no rope
@@mrmercedes-benz2145 What is a "Licensed Technician" ???
@@thooks1234 basically someone with degree to work on cars
Just take out the motor mount...my god is free to remove it 🙏
LOL, it still looked good
I found the febest on Amazon and eBay, I feel like it should have quality bearings that generic offerings.
Pulley Idler Kit Febest 0187-GSU45 Oem 16620-31031
I've never heard of them but it's still working at least