I just put a Gates 36325 pulley on my 2013 Toyota Sienna 3.5L tensioner thanks to this video. It was a direct replacement with no bearing swap. So far, it's working fine !!!
Just replaced the tensioner pulley last night on my 07 Is250. The Gates 36325 worked perfectly! Don’t be deceived when you remove the stock one and notice it is slightly larger in depth than the Gates. I could see the wear from the belt on the stock one and there is a large portion of the surface area the belt never touches. The Gates 36325 has plenty of area for the belt to run smoothly.
Just completed a water pump replace on 2008 Lexus IS250 AWD (~170k miles of Midwest driving). The Gates 36325 worked spot onto replace the tensioner pulley. As mentioned previously, it's narrower than the stock part but wide enough to support the belt. Only trick to remove the tensioner pully center bolt is to use an impact wrench to remove. As the bolt threads are left hand, the gun should be set to the tighten direction (clockwise rotation). I used a Milwaukee 2554-20 with speed setting #3...worked like a charm. Love justifying the purchase of a new tool!!! The idler pulley should be commonly available....I used a Bando 580153 (made in Canada!). While this thread isn't necessarily water pump related, I would suggest to only use the Aisin pump for this vehicle (WPT137 or WPT-137). It is literally the Toyota part with with Toyota name slightly abraded from the surface of the casting...I could still clearly see the top of the T and Y...haha! Plus it comes with the necessary two o-rings for the the thermostat housing. Also installed a TYC radiator (2968). While this particular radiator was mfr in China, I have had great experience with TYC-Taiwan parts previously
Your the first one that I've seen showing the process. 👍👍 This can be done with anything that uses a bearing and way cheaper from a bearing supply house than any parts supplier. Good Job!!
I have a 2008 GS350 207k making the same noise. Replaced idler and tensioner pulleys with OEM. Both pulleys were worn out but still some noise. Inspected the alternator pulley decoupler by removing the plastic cover, and it was full of rust dust trapped in there. Clean it up and the noise is completely gone. I'll replace the alternator pulley since it is also worn out. All three pulleys will make noise, but the high pitch noise is the alternator pulley. The plastic cover keeps moisture inside, and rust built up and eventually became a powder grind between the plastic cover and pulley.
I have an 08 GS350. To be clear: what pulley did you use for the tensioner pulley replacement, or did you replace the entire unit? OR, did you replace just the bearing(s)? The idler pulley is easy no-brainer. The tensioner pulley is the great unknown. Thanks!
@@bobbyglover5893 I only replace the pulley, not the entire unit. I order it from a Lexus dealer online, but Advance Autoparts also have good quality parts to fit Lexus OEM.
Thanks so much! I have a 2012 Toyota Sienna and was able to swap out the belt tensioner pulley (by itself) with the 0187-GSU45 from Amazon, as you noted. Easier than swapping the bearings on the old one (but I'll keep it just in case :-)) Thanks again!!
This was a great help. I'm returning the $120 belt tensioner assembly tomorrow. The Gates 36325 contains the correct bearings, but the pulley is a little narrower than the '08 Toyota Sienna tensioner. I pressed out the bearings, and put them in my old pulley, which looks pretty bombproof. The HF press paid for itself today :) I missed the part where you said to simply pick up 6203 bearings, but for $30, I was back on the road in a few hours, and don't have to wait for bearings to show up. Thanks!
If you are considering doing this keep in mind Toyota did not anticipate that this left hand tensioner pulley bolt would be removed in this manner (you have to buy it in one piece, pulley and frame) and as such they did not engineer that tensioner pulley frame to withstand the amount of force needed to release that bolt. It was only meant to hold the tensioner open to remove the belt. That little hole in the frame that the 3/16" drill bit or allen key fits into can easily be broken with the amount of force needed to get this bolt to release. Just ask me how I know that.
Wow that was cool looks easy enough. I wouldn’t mind getting an old one from a junkyard to practice on first. Will check the description below for part number
After watching the repair towards the end of the video you can clearly hear a chirping sound gradually increase. I feel your issue is with a misaligned pulley. This will put excessive stress on the bearing causing it to fail prematurely.
I did the same repair on mine, a 2008 Lexus IS 250, after the repair I put it back on and it still making the chirping noise and I can actually see a very small vibration on the pulley while the Car is on Any suggestions
Check out the description or pinned comment to find the part number for the replacement that doesn't need a press. People have been having good luck with it.
Gates 36325 from O’reilly fits well on 2015 Lexus IS350 F Sport Also, I had to change the other pulley the idler one, I used 231158 from autozone. Thanks for the video and all the comments.
@@nicoray15 It's been 2 months now, and it's still working great! They are just a bit different than the OEM pulleys, the diameter is the same, but it's just a little less wide, however, it is wide enough to fit the belt just fine. I also had to change my belt but no more noise and the car is running perfectly.
You mean Toyota OEM does not sell the tensioner pulley separate. The tensioner pulley with pressed bearings are on ebay. "Belt Tensioner Pulley Febest 0187-URJ201" Remember reverse threads, Righty- Loosey, Lefty-Tighty. Haha!
I think I found a belt tensioner that actually works. I’ll give it a shot and let you guys know if it works. It’s the Gates from O’Reilly part number: 36173 Pulley Outside Diameter (mm): 70mm Pulley Width (mm): 34mm Belt Type: Serpentine Pulley Width (in): 1-3/8 Inch Pulley Outside Diameter (in): 2-3/4 Inch Pulley Inside Diameter (in): 0.67 Inch Pulley Inside Diameter (mm): 17mm
Doesn't work for me. It can replace the idler pulley, but the tensioner pulley has a different backspacing and the back edge of the gates pulley hits the block.
Jo Tu Same squeak TBH. After replacement the noise went away for a few months and now it’s back. I hear it during the first 5 minutes of a cold start and after driving the car for more than 30 minutes.
Pulled my (squeeking exactly as loud and same as yours) tensioner pully off today. And my Idler pulley off to clean/repack bearings. Took both bearing sides off of each with an exacto knife. Cleaned the hell out of both with plenty of brake fluid until the insides were pristine. Snapped one side back on each. Packed brand new, red bearing grease in good for both. Popped the other side back on each (grease pushed out tiny hole from slight damage with exacto on tensioner - sides tough to get off). But packed well in both. Re installed both. No side to side play in either. Both turned nice with no seizing at all. Just dry. Tensioner still squeeks, but 1/4 as loud 😣. Dissapointed. Bearings were very dry before cleaning for sure. How do I order new bearings? I didn't mark down numbers from side of bearings, oops. It's a standard tensioner one for 1993 Dodge Ram B250 5.2l V8 Van. Afraid to pack new bearings with grease now, (If I just order new bearings, because they never do for even expensive brand new ones!?) because I'll damage it again trying to pry it off with an exacto knife. Noticed the Idler pulley was the original OEM part out of Windsor, Ontario, Canada (said Canada on side of bearing) in 1993, and had all metal bearing parts, was high quality, & packed great, and spun great - unlike the cheap non original tensioner pulley with plastic bearing framing inside that continues squeeking - aftermarket 😡.
Update (noise is gone!): After a couple days of changing my Tensioner Pulley (Gates 36325) on a Lexus IS350 F Sport, the noise came back, and as you can see on my original message I was pretty sure the noise was coming from the 36325, it turned out it was actually coming from the belt. To make sure it was the belt, I reproduce the noise (keeping the car at 2500RPMs) and I put water using a water spray bottle with a thin stream in the bottom Pulley, right on the surface where the belt sits. And I was surprised to see the noise go right away. So at that point, it was clear it was the belt. I bought 4070609 from Autozone for 41.99$ with a 3yr warranty, and change the old belt and finally, the noise is completely gone!. Old Message: I posted before I was able to solve the problem with the Gates 36325, but a couple days later the noise came back. Not sure what is going on. *I am sure* that is *the source is 36325* of the noise though because I put some WD-40 with the red straw straight into it, and the noise went away. As a note, the noise is almost gone below 1500RPM, and at its pick at about 2500 RPM.. I also tried another brand new 36325.
I assume the other 36325 you tried did the same thing? That is quite a mystery. This was filmed on my Father in laws Lexus and he developed a squeal later on at the alternator pulley clutch, and it sounded similar to the tensioner bearing, but unlike your situation the noise didn't go away with wd40, and when you got close it was obvious it was the alternator pulley
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for the feedback.. that is interesting.. You know I was thinking? Maybe these 36325 I am getting have different kind of bearing than the original ones?.. not sure Because I did notice the 36325 is an idler pulley, not the tensioner one, but it does come with double bearing (apparently). So my guesses are: - Maybe this 36325 has some different bearings and that with the tension causes it to make the noise? - Maybe my belt is to old and the tensioner is not putting enough tension? (But it would not make sense why adding W40 to the pulley (bearing area) would make the noise go away unless some of the W40 is falling to the belt) - Maybe the belt is fine but my tensioner mechanism has worn out and is not putting enough tension? I will keep it updated in case it helps anyone
@@AustinCoulson Guess what! it was the belt after all!, I changed it and finally no more noise!. Thanks for the help. I updated the original message in case it helps anyone.
@@rodrigocollao526 How old was the belt? How many miles on car...I have a 82k miles 14 ES 350 and ive noticed a minor chirping noise it goes away with silicone spray but appears to come back. Weird a belt would be cause of noise our Camry belt lasted nearly 200k+ miles no issues with noise when replaced. I had a Rav4 with this motor and never had any issues with noises like the lexus seems to have.
I'm trying to find some direct replacement just for the pulley, apparently its harder than I thought. Either that or I'm bad at googling lol. I'm pretty sure that my old IS250 has a bad tensioner pulley.
So, you just sprayed WD40 around the center of the pulleys to find out the bad one? I wanted to see how you did that. I think it is the most important diagnostic process to determine which one to replace. Thank you.
Congratulations on the video. This helped me a lot. Let me ask you something: to loosen the pulley bolt is the direction of rotation clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks so much for this, I had been looking for something on just the tensioner bearing replacement for an ES350 for 2 days. I only found this great video when I searched "lexus 6203" after a bunch of other research, I am not sure why. But add some more tags with all those models and "belt tensioner" and "bearings" and I know you will get a ton more views. Tags seem to be more important than the description. I subbed without looking at any other videos because you had exactly what I was looking for and that is rare on here. Best!
@@AustinCoulson Just FYI, if you ever need the full pulley for the tensioner, I did find one on Amazon amzn.to/2Chxq6D . But I am going tomorrow to the local bearing supply and get enough to do all of them, probably for the same price as that one pulley.
I’ve noticed there is quite a bit of play in the tensioner pulley on both a 2015 & a 2016 Subaru Foresters I saw. This was not wobbling front to back; it was simply play - constant moving when engine is running. I was told there should be some play. Is that correct?
Great video! Thx Glad I looked just a little deeper to discover the pulley itself is available. Nice! Any recommendations on which one may have worked best or lasted longer? My Toyota dealer wanted 1K with a belt and that was discounted! Lastly I HOPE this will be the same for a 2014 Highlander 3.5?🤞🤞 Mine Thx again.
if the noise comes with the ac, the most likely culprit is an old belt that is slipping on the AC pulley and not the bearings for the tensioner. You can try using a belt conditioner spray and if it helps then its time for a new belt
I wish I had seen this video before ordering my bearing, I have a 2011 Nissan Versa 1.6L and the bearing from the idler is starting to go bad, so I took the bearing number and ordered a bearing, only to find out the pulley has two of those with a center sleeve. Is there a way I could buy spare center sleeves? I'd like to have more at hand just in case I mess it up and render it unusable.
Not that i know of. You may have luck at ACE hardware if you have one locally. They are my go to for metal spacers, and I have had really good luck finding ones that work. If I can't find it there, I have my cousin machine them from raw steel.
Thank you very much for the time and energy you put into this awesome video featuring a rare subject that I am very interested in. A few questions. You said you are using a Harbor freight press. 1.) Which specific model)number of press did you use (I need to buy it). If no model then a link or a description would be appreciated. Additionally, I noticed at the very end of the video from 3:31-33 as you are saying "running with the new pulley", that there is still some chirping in the belt area and the video quickly ends (so I could not listen further). I mention this because my car has developed that same chirping almost always but sometimes mine is more constant like yours was at the beginning of the video. So (said with the utmost respect) I realize you said that the replaced tensioner bearings fixed the issue at the end, but did the car still chirp (or maybe even squeal a little) after that?? If not, then I am sorry that I asked but If so, did you try to get the chirp to stop and ultimately how did you do it? Obviously, I am asking only because I am desperate to solve my belt or pulley (or whatever) chirping and squeal issue. Your fast reply would be greatly appreciated as I have to fix this as soon as possible.
Here is the press: www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html Good ear on the chirp at the end. I had to replay the video as I did not notice it at the time. The squealing from the tensioner pulley went away with this procedure, but a few months later it developed a second noise from the alternator clutch (the mechanism within the pulley on the front of the alternator). We had to replace that as well. I think that is what you were hearing there. When the bearings were bad it was a nonstop squeal that changed tones when it warmed up, but was always there. The alternator chirp was just that, an occasional chirp that happened whenever the alternator would engage/disengage
I should note that the bearings were replaced 10 months ago and they are doing great and the alternator clutch was done about 5 months ago and there's been no sound since.
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for ur fast replies. Funny that you brought up the Alt. Clutch because Innitially I used a mechanics stethascope which lead to my first guess being that my issue is the alternator clutch but can not confirm that this is the issue 100% (maybe if I can perform the gates diagnosis mentioned later though). I fully loosened the belt and the alternator pulley rotates freely both ways without sound and it is not the idler pulley next to it either (I replaced idler and same sound is made). I was going to test the clutch but not sure if I remove the cap that the cap will be able to be replaced. In other words, by trying to fix it, I may break it (if I break the cap). 1) Do you know how to remove the Alt Pulley cap so it can be replaced? 2.) did you replace the clutch while Alt and belt was still on the car (Belt de tensioned of course) or take it off to replace it? I ask because I would prefer to do it on the car but I have significant access issues (it is on a 2008 Avalon). 3.) What (specific) tool (or kit) did you use to release the pulley from the Alt shaft? I can not find the single (for Toyotas) 17MM/19MM hollow tool (turned with a wrench) as shown in Gates video and am unsure about the tool to insert into the shaft (there are 3 possible "male shaped" ( ?? Hex, Star, Torx ???) tools to insert into the shaft depending on the car). I am afraid that I will get the cap open and not be able to get the clutch off (due to not having the correct tool to lock the shaft in place while removing the pulley, then be unable to get a possibly broken cap back on the pulley if I am unsuccessful replacing it). Gates makes this clutch removal kit but I am better off replacing the alternator entirely as I am not gonna pay the $80. ish that gates want for the tool kit... www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=91024 Gates shows how to test the alt clutch here ua-cam.com/video/hrFcPqZuO3A/v-deo.html But My alternator clutch cap looks different than theirs and I can not figure out how to remove it. 4.) I am hoping you have already learned about the Alt Clutch Cap and can share what you know with me. 5.) how did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley when you had this issue? 6.) Your opinion please... if I end up doing the bearings on the tensioner, do you think this will work instead of the massive press you used??? harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html?_br_psugg_q=bearing+race+and+seal+driver Help! :-) Again, your rat reply is greatly appreciated.
@@jotu173 I used the tool to install the clutch. Im not sure of any way to replace the clutch without the tool. The cap just popped off with a small flathead screwdriver on mine. The bearing driver will not pop out those bearings IMO. They were in there pretty good.
@@AustinCoulson 1.) When you say the tool, you mean the SPECIFIC gates tool that I mentioned before? 2.) Did you replace the clutch in place or take the alternator out to do it? 3.) Did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley BEFORE your replaced it, if so how? 4.) Do you think I could bypass dealing with pressing the bearings altogether and just replace the current OEM tensioner pulley (only) with this gates idler pulley (only) on the existing bracket?? www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=36173 Thanks again.
They DO sell this pulley separately. KOYO part number KOYO SERPENTINE IDLER 166030P03. This is a made in JAPAN bearing (same company that makes Toyota/Lexus oem). No thanks to the China junk. But good job otherwise.
@@robinkim7711 Well on a Lexus IS 250 like what I have there are only 2 pulleys. Tensioner and idler. The Idler is 166030P03, idler is KOYO DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY 1660431020 / 166040P011. eBay has both of these made by KOYO. Email “asianautos” and ask them which pulleys you need for your application 👍🏻
@@hoverzhang2684 Dude I’ve bought about 10 of them personally. He’s sells genuine KOYO which I confirmed via QR scan that KOYO puts on all genuine made in Japan bearings so you are wrong pal. Don’t correct me turd. When you repair half of what I do you can open your mouth.
Thank you Austin for posting this video to replace just the pulley. I am looking at Amazon and came across "Timken 6203-2RSC3 6203-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm American Brand". I have had great success with Timken in the past so am thinking of going with this. What do you think? Also, why 2 pack?
I don't know off the top of my head if that will work, but I am with you on Timken, they are my preferred bearing brand. I went with the cheaper bearings in the 10 pack because I wasn't 100% sure this would work when I ordered it. You will need 2 bearings for this procedure, and as long as the dimensions of the timken are the same (and I am pretty sure all 6203's have the same dimensions, but you should double check) then you should be good to go with the better Timken bearings. Hope this helps!
Trying to ask P Jain this question... Did you order these TImkens you mentioned and did it work? Any other tips? Your fast reply is greatly appreciated.
Yes the 6203-RS is the correct and highest quality bearings you can get. The other belt pulley on the RX350 (I have replaced on both a 2007 & 2015 RX350) uses a single Koyo 6302 RMX. I don't think Timken makes a bearing with a correct inside diameter for this application. Note: The part of the part number after and including the C is not important to match and can be C1, C2, or C3. Also if you want to really go the extra mile remove the seals, pack in additional grease, then reseal. Sometimes from the factory not much grease is included, so if you go this far it is worth checking.
towards the end of the video, the squeak is back lol.. but yea might as well replace the pulley with a new one. Good video tip though for those that are looking for a cheap temporary fix.
Koyo 6302rmx, there a bit hard to find as they are somewhat special and the inner race is thicker. I bought mine off aliexpress for about 25$ aliexpress is allright if you don't mind waiting a few weeks. Tensioner pulley is double bearings 6203rs
Hey so my 2000 lexus gs300 the tensioner pulley completely seized up after the squeezing and cause the whole belt to come off. Do I need to replace the whole pulley system or just that little part with the bearings??
This repair should fix that specific issue. It's impossible to know for sure without seeing it, but basically the tensioners only job is to have spring loaded tension and those rarely fail. The common failure is the pulley bearings and that sounds like exactly what happened to you. Sounds like the bearings were going bad, then seized, which blew the belt. You should be able to follow this video, swap the bearings, install a new belt and be good to go. Let me know if this works out for you, and good luck!
@@brandonalbright125 no, they are different. You can try gates part number 36325, people are having luck buying just that pulley and swapping them so you don't have to do the whole tensioner or my bearing swap
@@AustinCoulson Hey thanks, but when I type that part # in on Amazon it pulls up a gates idler pulley and amazon says it's not the correct fitting part for my Camry?
@@brandonalbright125 correct, that part is not designed for your car, but if you check out my description or the first pinned comment, one of my viewers found out that the part that isn't designed for these cars will fit anyways. Basically, no one sells just the pulley, they want you to replace the entire tensioner so I figured out how to replace just the bearings and the other viewer found out you can just buy a different pulley made for a different car instead of my solution
Thank you for this video. I have a lexus IS 250 that sounds a rattling noise on idle, and even more when AC is turned on. Any chance this pulley replacement will fix it?
I am not sure. It took a pretty decent amount of force. If I were in a pinch and didn't have access to a press, the only way I would think it would work is with dry ice and a C clamp. It's the same process but you chill the bearing in dry ice for about 2 hours first, shrinking it, while heating up the pulley in an oven. That is certainly not the preferred method though, and with how expensive the pulley assembly is, and how annoying it is to replace the whole unit, it's still cheaper to buy a cheap press and replace just the bearings.
A press is essentially a machine to impart a large force on something. Back in the day lacking a press, we jacked the back of a truck, placed a short steel rod under the cross member which pressed on a bearing or bush. Then gently let down the jack so that the steel rod pressed on the bearing/or bush. The steel rod must be straight and its ends parallel.Observe safety precautions always.
I just wrote you a pretty lengthy message / reply a few minutes ago. I have been told that if replies are to long, youtube may automatically make them disappear and go into a spam folder of sorts (that you have to find and fish the email out of). I am writing this much shorter reply to try to make sure you see my prior message. Among other things, it had specific questions about the Alternator clutch you replaced. I greatly appreciate your help with this matter.
I should have let the video play longer there as someone else mentioned that too. It's been almost a year and the tensioner pulley has been completely quiet. I did have to replace the alternator clutch a few months after the video, and I think that might be the noise there. It was a different noise, little tiny chirps here and there instead of the constant squeal the tensioner puller was making.
I just put a Gates 36325 pulley on my 2013 Toyota Sienna 3.5L tensioner thanks to this video. It was a direct replacement with no bearing swap. So far, it's working fine !!!
Would this work on a 2007 Toyota Camry do you think
Just replaced the tensioner pulley last night on my 07 Is250. The Gates 36325 worked perfectly!
Don’t be deceived when you remove the stock one and notice it is slightly larger in depth than the Gates. I could see the wear from the belt on the stock one and there is a large portion of the surface area the belt never touches. The Gates 36325 has plenty of area for the belt to run smoothly.
Zac Thompson did have the awd version ? Manual or automatic ? Thanks
Jeffrey Melgar Automatic AWD
@@zacthompson7292 what about the other pulley for the idler?
Just completed a water pump replace on 2008 Lexus IS250 AWD (~170k miles of Midwest driving).
The Gates 36325 worked spot onto replace the tensioner pulley. As mentioned previously, it's narrower than the stock part but wide enough to support the belt. Only trick to remove the tensioner pully center bolt is to use an impact wrench to remove. As the bolt threads are left hand, the gun should be set to the tighten direction (clockwise rotation). I used a Milwaukee 2554-20 with speed setting #3...worked like a charm. Love justifying the purchase of a new tool!!!
The idler pulley should be commonly available....I used a Bando 580153 (made in Canada!).
While this thread isn't necessarily water pump related, I would suggest to only use the Aisin pump for this vehicle (WPT137 or WPT-137). It is literally the Toyota part with with Toyota name slightly abraded from the surface of the casting...I could still clearly see the top of the T and Y...haha! Plus it comes with the necessary two o-rings for the the thermostat housing.
Also installed a TYC radiator (2968). While this particular radiator was mfr in China, I have had great experience with TYC-Taiwan parts previously
Your the first one that I've seen showing the process. 👍👍
This can be done with anything that uses a bearing and way cheaper from a bearing supply house than any parts supplier. Good Job!!
I have a 2008 GS350 207k making the same noise. Replaced idler and tensioner pulleys with OEM. Both pulleys were worn out but still some noise. Inspected the alternator pulley decoupler by removing the plastic cover, and it was full of rust dust trapped in there. Clean it up and the noise is completely gone. I'll replace the alternator pulley since it is also worn out. All three pulleys will make noise, but the high pitch noise is the alternator pulley. The plastic cover keeps moisture inside, and rust built up and eventually became a powder grind between the plastic cover and pulley.
This exact thing happened to the Lexus in this video about 6 months later
I have an 08 GS350. To be clear: what pulley did you use for the tensioner pulley replacement, or did you replace the entire unit? OR, did you replace just the bearing(s)? The idler pulley is easy no-brainer. The tensioner pulley is the great unknown. Thanks!
@@bobbyglover5893 I only replace the pulley, not the entire unit. I order it from a Lexus dealer online, but Advance Autoparts also have good quality parts to fit Lexus OEM.
Thank you Austin for the updates and techniques. priceless when on a budget or not.
Thanks so much! I have a 2012 Toyota Sienna and was able to swap out the belt tensioner pulley (by itself) with the 0187-GSU45 from Amazon, as you noted. Easier than swapping the bearings on the old one (but I'll keep it just in case :-)) Thanks again!!
This was a great help. I'm returning the $120 belt tensioner assembly tomorrow. The Gates 36325 contains the correct bearings, but the pulley is a little narrower than the '08 Toyota Sienna tensioner. I pressed out the bearings, and put them in my old pulley, which looks pretty bombproof. The HF press paid for itself today :) I missed the part where you said to simply pick up 6203 bearings, but for $30, I was back on the road in a few hours, and don't have to wait for bearings to show up. Thanks!
Awesome!
If you are considering doing this keep in mind Toyota did not anticipate that this left hand tensioner pulley bolt would be removed in this manner (you have to buy it in one piece, pulley and frame) and as such they did not engineer that tensioner pulley frame to withstand the amount of force needed to release that bolt. It was only meant to hold the tensioner open to remove the belt. That little hole in the frame that the 3/16" drill bit or allen key fits into can easily be broken with the amount of force needed to get this bolt to release. Just ask me how I know that.
That’s why you take out the 6mm Allen key
Wow that was cool looks easy enough. I wouldn’t mind getting an old one from a junkyard to practice on first. Will check the description below for part number
After watching the repair towards the end of the video you can clearly hear a chirping sound gradually increase. I feel your issue is with a misaligned pulley. This will put excessive stress on the bearing causing it to fail prematurely.
It was actually the alternator clutch. I had to replace that a few months after doing this pulley
@@AustinCoulson A/C clutch?
@@sd906238 no, the alternator clutch. This model has a built in clutch on the pulley of the alternator similar to the ac clutch.
I did the same repair on mine, a 2008 Lexus IS 250, after the repair I put it back on and it still making the chirping noise and I can actually see a very small vibration on the pulley while the Car is on Any suggestions
@@AustinCoulson goto love the selective charge systems 😂
For the GS350 - the part number for the pulley is 16604-31010
Thank you for the video!! Finally have a reason to use my press 🤙🏾
Check out the description or pinned comment to find the part number for the replacement that doesn't need a press. People have been having good luck with it.
Febest 0187-GSU45 from Amazon will fit 2GRFE. do yourself a favor and order this one and it will fit perfect. no mod
Gates 36325 from O’reilly fits well on 2015 Lexus IS350 F Sport
Also, I had to change the other pulley the idler one, I used 231158 from autozone.
Thanks for the video and all the comments.
How they working so far were they any different from the OEM pulleys? In terms of dimensions ext?
@@nicoray15 It's been 2 months now, and it's still working great! They are just a bit different than the OEM pulleys, the diameter is the same, but it's just a little less wide, however, it is wide enough to fit the belt just fine.
I also had to change my belt but no more noise and the car is running perfectly.
You mean Toyota OEM does not sell the tensioner pulley separate. The tensioner pulley with pressed bearings are on ebay.
"Belt Tensioner Pulley Febest 0187-URJ201" Remember reverse threads, Righty- Loosey, Lefty-Tighty. Haha!
I think I found a belt tensioner that actually works. I’ll give it a shot and let you guys know if it works.
It’s the Gates from O’Reilly part number:
36173
Pulley Outside Diameter (mm): 70mm
Pulley Width (mm): 34mm
Belt Type: Serpentine
Pulley Width (in): 1-3/8 Inch
Pulley Outside Diameter (in): 2-3/4 Inch
Pulley Inside Diameter (in): 0.67 Inch
Pulley Inside Diameter (mm): 17mm
Doesn't work for me. It can replace the idler pulley, but the tensioner pulley has a different backspacing and the back edge of the gates pulley hits the block.
I used the gates 36325 pulley as a replacement and it worked great! thank you
Great to hear! Thanks for letting us know!
What is the year make and model of the car you put this on? Is it still working fine?
Jo Tu 2006 is250 AWD and 50/50 I think I have to replace my whole tensioner. Noise is back but not from the pulley
@@hilariopenaloza5858 1) Is the new squeak the same exact noise or a totally different kinda "squeak"?
Jo Tu Same squeak TBH. After replacement the noise went away for a few months and now it’s back. I hear it during the first 5 minutes of a cold start and after driving the car for more than 30 minutes.
I have 2013 lexus gs350, how I could access the hole in the bottom to undo the pulley.
Will those pulley part numbers also work for a 2017 Sienna with the 2GR-FKS engine?
Pulled my (squeeking exactly as loud and same as yours) tensioner pully off today. And my Idler pulley off to clean/repack bearings. Took both bearing sides off of each with an exacto knife. Cleaned the hell out of both with plenty of brake fluid until the insides were pristine. Snapped one side back on each. Packed brand new, red bearing grease in good for both. Popped the other side back on each (grease pushed out tiny hole from slight damage with exacto on tensioner - sides tough to get off). But packed well in both. Re installed both. No side to side play in either. Both turned nice with no seizing at all. Just dry. Tensioner still squeeks, but 1/4 as loud 😣. Dissapointed. Bearings were very dry before cleaning for sure. How do I order new bearings? I didn't mark down numbers from side of bearings, oops. It's a standard tensioner one for 1993 Dodge Ram B250 5.2l V8 Van. Afraid to pack new bearings with grease now, (If I just order new bearings, because they never do for even expensive brand new ones!?) because I'll damage it again trying to pry it off with an exacto knife. Noticed the Idler pulley was the original OEM part out of Windsor, Ontario, Canada (said Canada on side of bearing) in 1993, and had all metal bearing parts, was high quality, & packed great, and spun great - unlike the cheap non original tensioner pulley with plastic bearing framing inside that continues squeeking - aftermarket 😡.
Update (noise is gone!):
After a couple days of changing my Tensioner Pulley (Gates 36325) on a Lexus IS350 F Sport, the noise came back, and as you can see on my original message I was pretty sure the noise was coming from the 36325, it turned out it was actually coming from the belt.
To make sure it was the belt, I reproduce the noise (keeping the car at 2500RPMs) and I put water using a water spray bottle with a thin stream in the bottom Pulley, right on the surface where the belt sits. And I was surprised to see the noise go right away. So at that point, it was clear it was the belt.
I bought 4070609 from Autozone for 41.99$ with a 3yr warranty, and change the old belt and finally, the noise is completely gone!.
Old Message:
I posted before I was able to solve the problem with the Gates 36325, but a couple days later the noise came back.
Not sure what is going on. *I am sure* that is *the source is 36325* of the noise though because I put some WD-40 with the red straw straight into it, and the noise went away.
As a note, the noise is almost gone below 1500RPM, and at its pick at about 2500 RPM..
I also tried another brand new 36325.
I assume the other 36325 you tried did the same thing? That is quite a mystery. This was filmed on my Father in laws Lexus and he developed a squeal later on at the alternator pulley clutch, and it sounded similar to the tensioner bearing, but unlike your situation the noise didn't go away with wd40, and when you got close it was obvious it was the alternator pulley
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for the feedback.. that is interesting..
You know I was thinking? Maybe these 36325 I am getting have different kind of bearing than the original ones?.. not sure
Because I did notice the 36325 is an idler pulley, not the tensioner one, but it does come with double bearing (apparently).
So my guesses are:
- Maybe this 36325 has some different bearings and that with the tension causes it to make the noise?
- Maybe my belt is to old and the tensioner is not putting enough tension? (But it would not make sense why adding W40 to the pulley (bearing area) would make the noise go away unless some of the W40 is falling to the belt)
- Maybe the belt is fine but my tensioner mechanism has worn out and is not putting enough tension?
I will keep it updated in case it helps anyone
@@AustinCoulson Guess what! it was the belt after all!, I changed it and finally no more noise!. Thanks for the help. I updated the original message in case it helps anyone.
@@rodrigocollao526 interesting. Must have had a little wd40 make its way on the belt to quiet it briefly. Thanks for the heads up!
@@rodrigocollao526 How old was the belt? How many miles on car...I have a 82k miles 14 ES 350 and ive noticed a minor chirping noise it goes away with silicone spray but appears to come back. Weird a belt would be cause of noise our Camry belt lasted nearly 200k+ miles no issues with noise when replaced. I had a Rav4 with this motor and never had any issues with noises like the lexus seems to have.
Austin . Could you please tell me who is manufacture of bearing and parts number and purchase the bearing?
I'm trying to find some direct replacement just for the pulley, apparently its harder than I thought. Either that or I'm bad at googling lol.
I'm pretty sure that my old IS250 has a bad tensioner pulley.
So, you just sprayed WD40 around the center of the pulleys to find out the bad one? I wanted to see how you did that. I think it is the most important diagnostic process to determine which one to replace. Thank you.
I think I found the right tensioner pulley
I will let you know if it works.
O’Reillys Gates 36173
The width is 34 mm
Did it work?
Did it work?????
Congratulations on the video. This helped me a lot. Let me ask you something: to loosen the pulley bolt is the direction of rotation clockwise or counterclockwise?
Clockwise to loosen, like you would normally tighten the bolt. It's a Left hand thread.
Turn your volume up sir
QUESTION ❓❓❓Were those bearings 6003RS ❓❓❓
Thanks so much for this, I had been looking for something on just the tensioner bearing replacement for an ES350 for 2 days. I only found this great video when I searched "lexus 6203" after a bunch of other research, I am not sure why. But add some more tags with all those models and "belt tensioner" and "bearings" and I know you will get a ton more views. Tags seem to be more important than the description.
I subbed without looking at any other videos because you had exactly what I was looking for and that is rare on here. Best!
Thanks! It was driving my father in law nuts so that's why we made the video. I'll add tags for sure
@@AustinCoulson Just FYI, if you ever need the full pulley for the tensioner, I did find one on Amazon amzn.to/2Chxq6D . But I am going tomorrow to the local bearing supply and get enough to do all of them, probably for the same price as that one pulley.
What about the pulley beside the tensioner pully *PUI07029RMXY*
What size bearings?
I’ve noticed there is quite a bit of play in the tensioner pulley on both a 2015 & a 2016 Subaru Foresters I saw. This was not wobbling front to back; it was simply play - constant moving when engine is running. I was told there should be some play. Is that correct?
There should be no play in the pulley itself, but the tensioner will move quite a bit while running.
Is the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley same size
Can any one help me with what pulley to use on the tensioner pulley for 2008 Rav4 Toyota V6 3.5L Thanks in advance.
How do I loosen the bearing pulley bolt?? Can someone help please
Great video!
Thx
Glad I looked just a little deeper to discover the pulley itself is available. Nice!
Any recommendations on which one may have worked best or lasted longer?
My Toyota dealer wanted 1K with a belt and that was discounted!
Lastly I HOPE this will be the same for a 2014 Highlander 3.5?🤞🤞
Mine
Thx again.
I haven't heard which one is better, people seem to be happy with both
It seems that all idle pulley are the same size 70mm x 33mm? Am I correct?
Thank you my Brother!
Does it work on highlander 2016 3.5 V6?
Do you know if the bearings in the idler are the same?
I have an 06 300 and it has a rattling noise. Where did you get the bearing from and do you have a part number?
I got 2006 sienna limited with the same noise I’m annoyed everything time I turn the AC on that screeching noise goes on
if the noise comes with the ac, the most likely culprit is an old belt that is slipping on the AC pulley and not the bearings for the tensioner. You can try using a belt conditioner spray and if it helps then its time for a new belt
Would these bearings work? 6203-2RS KOYO Deep Groove Ball Bearing
17x40x12 mm
I believe so. As far as I know the 6203 is the size and style of bearing and the 2rs just means they are rubber sealed and a 2 pack
Cách thay bi tỳ rất hay ,video hướng dẫn rất chi tiết ,cảm ơn bạn
I wish I had seen this video before ordering my bearing, I have a 2011 Nissan Versa 1.6L and the bearing from the idler is starting to go bad, so I took the bearing number and ordered a bearing, only to find out the pulley has two of those with a center sleeve. Is there a way I could buy spare center sleeves? I'd like to have more at hand just in case I mess it up and render it unusable.
Not that i know of. You may have luck at ACE hardware if you have one locally. They are my go to for metal spacers, and I have had really good luck finding ones that work. If I can't find it there, I have my cousin machine them from raw steel.
Do any of the Toyota/Lexus OEM pulleys work as a swap for the tensioner pulley? Would prefer to keep it OEM, if possible.
Not that I am aware of
does a 2006 es330 have the same type of pulley system?
How to loosen the pulley bolt?
Do you think that this will work on a 2008 Toyo Avalon? Has anyone actually done one on that car yet? If so, was it a success or ????
Thanks mate for that video :)
Thank you very much for the time and energy you put into this awesome video featuring a rare subject that I am very interested in. A few questions. You said you are using a Harbor freight press. 1.) Which specific model)number of press did you use (I need to buy it). If no model then a link or a description would be appreciated. Additionally, I noticed at the very end of the video from 3:31-33 as you are saying "running with the new pulley", that there is still some chirping in the belt area and the video quickly ends (so I could not listen further). I mention this because my car has developed that same chirping almost always but sometimes mine is more constant like yours was at the beginning of the video. So (said with the utmost respect) I realize you said that the replaced tensioner bearings fixed the issue at the end, but did the car still chirp (or maybe even squeal a little) after that?? If not, then I am sorry that I asked but If so, did you try to get the chirp to stop and ultimately how did you do it? Obviously, I am asking only because I am desperate to solve my belt or pulley (or whatever) chirping and squeal issue. Your fast reply would be greatly appreciated as I have to fix this as soon as possible.
Here is the press:
www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
Good ear on the chirp at the end. I had to replay the video as I did not notice it at the time. The squealing from the tensioner pulley went away with this procedure, but a few months later it developed a second noise from the alternator clutch (the mechanism within the pulley on the front of the alternator). We had to replace that as well. I think that is what you were hearing there. When the bearings were bad it was a nonstop squeal that changed tones when it warmed up, but was always there. The alternator chirp was just that, an occasional chirp that happened whenever the alternator would engage/disengage
I should note that the bearings were replaced 10 months ago and they are doing great and the alternator clutch was done about 5 months ago and there's been no sound since.
@@AustinCoulson Thanks for ur fast replies. Funny that you brought up the Alt. Clutch because Innitially I used a mechanics stethascope which lead to my first guess being that my issue is the alternator clutch but can not confirm that this is the issue 100% (maybe if I can perform the gates diagnosis mentioned later though). I fully loosened the belt and the alternator pulley rotates freely both ways without sound and it is not the idler pulley next to it either (I replaced idler and same sound is made). I was going to test the clutch but not sure if I remove the cap that the cap will be able to be replaced. In other words, by trying to fix it, I may break it (if I break the cap). 1) Do you know how to remove the Alt Pulley cap so it can be replaced? 2.) did you replace the clutch while Alt and belt was still on the car (Belt de tensioned of course) or take it off to replace it? I ask because I would prefer to do it on the car but I have significant access issues (it is on a 2008 Avalon). 3.) What (specific) tool (or kit) did you use to release the pulley from the Alt shaft? I can not find the single (for Toyotas) 17MM/19MM hollow tool (turned with a wrench) as shown in Gates video and am unsure about the tool to insert into the shaft (there are 3 possible "male shaped" ( ?? Hex, Star, Torx ???) tools to insert into the shaft depending on the car). I am afraid that I will get the cap open and not be able to get the clutch off (due to not having the correct tool to lock the shaft in place while removing the pulley, then be unable to get a possibly broken cap back on the pulley if I am unsuccessful replacing it).
Gates makes this clutch removal kit but I am better off replacing the alternator entirely as I am not gonna pay the $80. ish that gates want for the tool kit... www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=91024
Gates shows how to test the alt clutch here ua-cam.com/video/hrFcPqZuO3A/v-deo.html But My alternator clutch cap looks different than theirs and I can not figure out how to remove it. 4.) I am hoping you have already learned about the Alt Clutch Cap and can share what you know with me. 5.) how did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley when you had this issue? 6.) Your opinion please... if I end up doing the bearings on the tensioner, do you think this will work instead of the massive press you used??? harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html?_br_psugg_q=bearing+race+and+seal+driver Help! :-) Again, your rat reply is greatly appreciated.
@@jotu173 I used the tool to install the clutch. Im not sure of any way to replace the clutch without the tool. The cap just popped off with a small flathead screwdriver on mine. The bearing driver will not pop out those bearings IMO. They were in there pretty good.
@@AustinCoulson 1.) When you say the tool, you mean the SPECIFIC gates tool that I mentioned before? 2.) Did you replace the clutch in place or take the alternator out to do it? 3.) Did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley BEFORE your replaced it, if so how? 4.) Do you think I could bypass dealing with pressing the bearings altogether and just replace the current OEM tensioner pulley (only) with this gates idler pulley (only) on the existing bracket?? www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=36173
Thanks again.
Where did you purchase those bearings?
Great Video....thank you
Can you please Tell me which bearings you use to replace the OEM ones? Thanks!
2(Pack) 6203 2RS C3 / DDUC3 NSK 2 RUBBER SHIELDED BALL BEARING 17X40X12CM
Do you know if this same 6203-2rs bearing will fit in the 2 IDLER pulleys of a 2007 Lexus RX350 please?
I think so, but I'm not 100% sure
Nick-- I own a 2013 rx350... How did yours go? Were the 6203 the correct bearings? Any other comments would be appreciated.
They DO sell this pulley separately. KOYO part number KOYO SERPENTINE IDLER 166030P03. This is a made in JAPAN bearing (same company that makes Toyota/Lexus oem). No thanks to the China junk. But good job otherwise.
So just to confirm,
166030P03 is the same pulley as tensioner pulley? Other two pulley parts#
16604-0P011 / 16604-31020. Am I right?
@@robinkim7711 Well on a Lexus IS 250 like what I have there are only 2 pulleys. Tensioner and idler. The Idler is 166030P03, idler is KOYO DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY 1660431020 / 166040P011. eBay has both of these made by KOYO. Email “asianautos” and ask them which pulleys you need for your application 👍🏻
"asianautos" in ebay does not sell japan-made tensioner pulley. It is made from poland
@@hoverzhang2684 Dude I’ve bought about 10 of them personally. He’s sells genuine KOYO which I confirmed via QR scan that KOYO puts on all genuine made in Japan bearings so you are wrong pal. Don’t correct me turd. When you repair half of what I do you can open your mouth.
Im wondering if these 6203 bearings will replace the bearings in the idler pulleys as well??
I didn't test it out, but they look the same, although the idler only uses a single bearing
Thank you Austin for posting this video to replace just the pulley. I am looking at Amazon and came across "Timken 6203-2RSC3 6203-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm American Brand". I have had great success with Timken in the past so am thinking of going with this. What do you think? Also, why 2 pack?
I don't know off the top of my head if that will work, but I am with you on Timken, they are my preferred bearing brand. I went with the cheaper bearings in the 10 pack because I wasn't 100% sure this would work when I ordered it. You will need 2 bearings for this procedure, and as long as the dimensions of the timken are the same (and I am pretty sure all 6203's have the same dimensions, but you should double check) then you should be good to go with the better Timken bearings. Hope this helps!
Did you order these TImkens you mentioned and did it work? Any other tips? Your fast reply is greatly appreciated.
@@jotu173 I never heard back from him if he got the timkens or not, but the ones I used have been working great and quiet so far
Trying to ask P Jain this question... Did you order these TImkens you mentioned and did it work? Any other tips? Your fast reply is greatly appreciated.
Yes the 6203-RS is the correct and highest quality bearings you can get. The other belt pulley on the RX350 (I have replaced on both a 2007 & 2015 RX350) uses a single Koyo 6302 RMX. I don't think Timken makes a bearing with a correct inside diameter for this application. Note: The part of the part number after and including the C is not important to match and can be C1, C2, or C3. Also if you want to really go the extra mile remove the seals, pack in additional grease, then reseal. Sometimes from the factory not much grease is included, so if you go this far it is worth checking.
The bearing itself might cost more than the pulley. I buy the new pulley for 2010 tundra v6 only for 13 dollars online,
Austin Coulson what is torque LB when you bolt the new pulley on ? Thanks
I torqued it to the very specific torque of Snug-as-a-bug-in-a-rug (I did not torque it to any spec)
Nice Video. i have a Gs300 2008 do you maybe know the Torq Specs for tensioner pulley and Idler pulley.
Sorry, I cannot find the torque specs on it
@@AustinCoulson thank you no problem :-)
towards the end of the video, the squeak is back lol.. but yea might as well replace the pulley with a new one. Good video tip though for those that are looking for a cheap temporary fix.
The squeak at the end ended up being the clutch on the front of the alternator. Had to replace that about a month later
Do you know the bearings type in the Idler pulley? Another UA-camr said it was made by Koyo. Thanks.
Koyo 6302rmx, there a bit hard to find as they are somewhat special and the inner race is thicker. I bought mine off aliexpress for about 25$ aliexpress is allright if you don't mind waiting a few weeks. Tensioner pulley is double bearings 6203rs
So install it back would you just leave the Allen key in the hole and just put on the pulley ?
yes, you then use the ratchet or wrench to relieve pressure on the allen key and remove it (the allen key) and then tension the belt
And this is for the 07 Camry 3.5 too? I think lexus and Camry 3.5s are the same right? Thanks
should be the same on the 07-10 Camry with 3.5
Do they use 6203 bearing in same pulley for 1MZ engines?
I am not sure
Where did you buy the bearings?
I leave in AFGANISTAN. Where can I get the part.
will this work on a Toyota 2grfe engine?what I know Lexus 350 have the same engine
It should be the same
U need to changed the whole tensioner pulley assembly
Where can i get that bearing from Namibia
can you order that bolt that goes into the tensioner?
Its a LHT thread so it'd be difficult to find at a hardware store, but you can order it from Toyota
I have to do mine I'm not paying $400 so I bought a press and bearings including purchase price of the press it's still cheaper ha ha
I did both of them bearings were $40
Hey so my 2000 lexus gs300 the tensioner pulley completely seized up after the squeezing and cause the whole belt to come off. Do I need to replace the whole pulley system or just that little part with the bearings??
This repair should fix that specific issue. It's impossible to know for sure without seeing it, but basically the tensioners only job is to have spring loaded tension and those rarely fail. The common failure is the pulley bearings and that sounds like exactly what happened to you. Sounds like the bearings were going bad, then seized, which blew the belt. You should be able to follow this video, swap the bearings, install a new belt and be good to go. Let me know if this works out for you, and good luck!
@@AustinCoulson on my 07 Camry 3.5, would the tensioner pulley / bearing be the same pulley / bearing as my idler pulley? Thanks again!
@@brandonalbright125 no, they are different. You can try gates part number 36325, people are having luck buying just that pulley and swapping them so you don't have to do the whole tensioner or my bearing swap
@@AustinCoulson Hey thanks, but when I type that part # in on Amazon it pulls up a gates idler pulley and amazon says it's not the correct fitting part for my Camry?
@@brandonalbright125 correct, that part is not designed for your car, but if you check out my description or the first pinned comment, one of my viewers found out that the part that isn't designed for these cars will fit anyways. Basically, no one sells just the pulley, they want you to replace the entire tensioner so I figured out how to replace just the bearings and the other viewer found out you can just buy a different pulley made for a different car instead of my solution
Thank you for this video.
I have a lexus IS 250 that sounds a rattling noise on idle, and even more when AC is turned on. Any chance this pulley replacement will fix it?
That's the same issue this Lexus had and it fixed ours
Which bearing is this, if you know the number please, thanks
The part numbers are in the top pinned comment. There are a few different ones people have said work
@@AustinCoulson thank you much
Good intentions. The bad: Not shown how to insert the 2 new bearings into the pulley after the old bearings are removed=Kept a secret.
The secret was peanut butter. Shhh
no tacoma for this bearing or pulley
Correct. This only applies to the vehicles listed in the description
@@AustinCoulson wow mostly all of the toyota line up but Tacoma =(
@@jonesesente7646 the good news is that I think they sell just the pulley for the Tacoma pretty cheaply
@@AustinCoulson and that comes with the bearing right? and do you think most idler pulley in a car/truck the same size?
@@jonesesente7646 what year and motor is your Tacoma? Do you know where the squealing is coming from?
How long did they last? Do you still have this car?
over 2 years and still no noise
@@AustinCoulson thanks I'll get those as well than
Did I just hear a squeak at the end of the video lol
Is this possible to do without a press?
I am not sure. It took a pretty decent amount of force. If I were in a pinch and didn't have access to a press, the only way I would think it would work is with dry ice and a C clamp. It's the same process but you chill the bearing in dry ice for about 2 hours first, shrinking it, while heating up the pulley in an oven. That is certainly not the preferred method though, and with how expensive the pulley assembly is, and how annoying it is to replace the whole unit, it's still cheaper to buy a cheap press and replace just the bearings.
A press is essentially a machine to impart a large force on something. Back in the day lacking a press, we jacked the back of a truck, placed a short steel rod under the cross member which pressed on a bearing or bush. Then gently let down the jack so that the steel rod pressed on the bearing/or bush. The steel rod must be straight and its ends parallel.Observe safety precautions always.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 I have done that in the field as well. Not ideal, but works in a pinch.
Yes, but only push on the outer race, not the inner.
What size Allen key
I used a 5mm. You can also use a drill bit
What does the Allen key do and we do u put it? I don't see it a hex
I just wrote you a pretty lengthy message / reply a few minutes ago. I have been told that if replies are to long, youtube may automatically make them disappear and go into a spam folder of sorts (that you have to find and fish the email out of). I am writing this much shorter reply to try to make sure you see my prior message. Among other things, it had specific questions about the Alternator clutch you replaced. I greatly appreciate your help with this matter.
at 3:32 I can still hear it squeak
I should have let the video play longer there as someone else mentioned that too. It's been almost a year and the tensioner pulley has been completely quiet. I did have to replace the alternator clutch a few months after the video, and I think that might be the noise there. It was a different noise, little tiny chirps here and there instead of the constant squeal the tensioner puller was making.