EASY FIX FORD Air Conditioning System
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- #AutoAirConditioning #FORDAirConditioning #FORDACRebuild
#airconditioningrepair
2000 FORD F-250 Air Conditioning
Diagnosing and repairing
Explanation of how AC works
Real Example Of Why Safety Equipment Is Important
Disassembly and tips on what to do
Cleaning the system
Installing new parts and reassembly with tips
Operational review and cost of project
~~~~~ BEGIN ~~~~~
Gauge pressures
Low side 5 PSI, High side 90 PSI
Indicate low refrigerant level
Or blockage in system
Normal pressures are about
Blue, Low side, 35-45 PSI
Red, High side, 145-160 PSI
We will also be replacing the compressor
Low pressure cutoff sensor switch
Located on the Accumulator
In addition to gloves and safety glasses
I would recommend wearing a mask while blowing
Out the system so you aren't breathing
Atomized particulate solvent, oil, or any other debris
During the cleaning, flushing, purging process
Lay a towel over potential spray or burst situations
The picture in the manual was reverse for
The F250 5.4 liter Super Cab installation
Pay attention to how your orifice tube is inserted
The pipe immediately after the orifice tube should not be
Frosted and the two large return hoses and
The accumulator should be cold with condensation
On them.
This means a blockage at the orafice tube is causing
Not enough volume of coolant through the evaporator
You can see in the needle how the low side pressure switch
Activates the compressor when the low side pressure rises
Up to about 40 PSI
Then the low side pressure drops to about 35 PSI as the
Compressor begins to pump refrigerant again
At 35 PSI the switch senses a low pressure condition
This shuts off the compressor and low side pressure rises
Then low side pressure rises back up to 40 PSI
The compressor turns back on lowering low side pressure
Again starting the cycle all over
It creates a very narrow operational pressure window
Thank you for watching
Hope you enjoyed this video
and found something
interesting and useful
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You sound like Nick Offerman and it makes watching this that much more enjoyable.
Thank you. He's almost as handsome as me too. LOL... The wife likes him.
Great video. I am dealing with the same issue right now. 2002 7.3. Thanks for explaining and making a very detailed video!
Thanks, Hope you get things going. Having done this a couple times now, my bet is the orafice tube is blocked. Your diesel is way more cramped than mine but generally I'd change the system out, solvent flush the hoses and blow dry and don't worry about air pressure.The lines are high pressure rated. Solvent flush and blow dry the condenser and evaporator, solvent clean everything. Get an O ring kit and replace them all. I would get NAPA parts or good quality. Reassemble everything and vacuum it down to be sure it holds without change a very low vacuum. Start charging your system. Make sure you put in the correct amount of PAG oil. My AC system has run like a champ ever since this video. I would also change the hi and low pressure switches for good measure. I believe a faulty low pressure switch caused my system failure. You need to change the accumulator bottle to, it will be fill of gunk you don't want. This project really is easier than you might think. Best wishes.
I found some metal shavings on my 7.3 orfice tube. So here i am wondering if i need to replace my condensor and evaporator or if i can just flush it. Did you replace yours or just flash it? They say that is you don't replace those parts that the new compressor can go bad. Thanks!
@@johnlee8985you definitely need to replace the condenser and just flush out the evaporator and the high and low lines before putting the new compressor in.
Helped me quite a lot! Thank you for taking the time to share this information!😊
Glad it helped.
Hi! Thanks a lot and congratulations You performed as a professional :)
Thank you. Hope the video helped you. I lived with my AC problem for a couple years due to the cost of a shop to perform the repairs. We were going on an extended road trip to south central Oregon, there's a few videos from that trip here, where I knew it was going to be hot hot hot so I did my homework and figured out how to fix the AC system. I bought about 300.00 in specialty tools, vacuum pump and AC test gauge set, and about 350.00 in parts, compressor, refrigerant, accumulator, Low presser compressor cut off sensor switch, oil, and other parts. Even buying tools and parts, I made the repairs for about 1/3rd the cost of the shop quote. Made me very happy and I've been able to help a couple friends fix their AC systems too. It's been about 5 months now and the system still works great.
Thanks for putting up the warning just before you opened up the accumulator! Of course, the system needs to be evacuated before working on it but even if you know you have a leak and lost refrigerant, it's always a good idea to verify pressure with your gauges and release any small remaining amount of refrigerant through the Schrader valve.
One other safety comment...........I noticed your wrenches were placed, albeit in their plastic case, next to your battery, which has an uncovered positive terminal. Speaking from a friend's experience, you do not want one of those, or any other metallic tool to accidentally bridge the terminals. Not very pleasant, to put it mildly!!
Yeah, I had checked depressing the schrader valve a while before but I guess there was change in atmospheric pressure and temperature that got me. The refrigerant had leaked out over time and I thought it had no pressure in the system but there was some built up in there, just enough to spray and then it was done. Good thing the safety glasses were on. I've been bad over the years having wrenches sparking on the battery a couple times. It always wakes you up quick. I admit, I lay tools on the battery but I'm aware of it and careful. I did this repair three years and a couple months ago and the AC still works great! Not a problem of any type, turn it on, it works, every time. Thanks for the comment.
Nice work
Thank you. It's been a couple of years, and the AC is still working great!
I have a 2004 ford explorer my a/c compressor went out today.thank you for the video .I Now what I need to replace on my truck .thank you again.
Great to hear. Glad it helped.
My truck, 2006 6.0L, was doing this very same thing the compressor would cut on and off. When we pulled the orfice tube it had metal shavings on it and other debris. We decided it was a bad compressor. After replacing everything compressor, tubing, evaporator, condenser, accumulator, etc I ran the truck for ten minutes and then came to a stop at a red light and the compressor proceeded to dump all the Freon out of the system as a huge cloud rolled out from under the truck. I took it back to the guy that did the work, local tech from ford, and When we opened up the system the orfice tube had been sucked/pushed all the way up into the elbow just before the evaporator. Moved 2-3” downstream. We attempted to replace the orfice with one from the local parts house and recharge the system with the same results. This time the orfice tube became lodged so bad that we could not get it out. Ultimately he said the new compressor had failed and contaminated the system and plugged up the office tube. I am not so sure as the orfice tube looked pretty clean to me compared to what I have found online.
I was able to get the local parts house to warranty everything since we had replaced the entire system, After replacing everything again the system worked ok the air coming out was cold but not as cold as I would expect maybe 60 degrees. I drove the truck for 3 weeks and one day while driving it I came to a stop and let the truck idle for several minutes with the ac running, after idling for several minutes I heard the system start to release refrigerant. I quickly shutoff the ac and then turned it back on a few minutes later it ran for a few minutes before I stopped again. After idling several more minutes it began to blow off refrigerant again. I am at a loss for what to do. I was hoping I could find out something online but this seems to be a pretty isolated issue.
I took the truck back today to recharge and test it we discovered more metal shavings on the orfice tube. We replaced it and were going to recharge the system to test it but when he began recharging the system the pressure read 100psi with only 14oz added. The ford tech felt that the pressure read to high for only having a small portion of the Freon added and now believes there is some sort of blockage in the system.
Any help/advice is appreciated.
I'm not an expert but it sounds like a blockage. There are a couple ways to block the system. Lots of dirt and debris at the orifice tube, or orifice tube installed backwards, moisture in the system due to not properly vacuuming down the system fully before charging. Moisture can turn to ice and block the orifice tube. It will ice up and block, then thaw, and repeat over and over. All AC systems work the same way so the cure for any accumulator type system can be used as an example for yours.
Great job guy thanks for sharing the video.
Thank you. Hope it helped.
That system was just low on refrigerant; it could have had other problems, but you can't rule them out without recharging it with the right charge. Being undercharged would definitely show the symptoms you had.
You measured a static pressure of 60 psi. The saturation temperature of r134a at 60psi is 62 degrees. I'm going to take an educated guess and assume the ambient temperature is above 62 degrees. This means that there is no liquid refrigerant in the system; meaning it is very much undercharged. If it's say 80 degrees, the static pressure should be 87 psi. Static pressure doesn't tell you if you're fully charged or overcharged, but it will tell you if it is significantly undercharged (no liquid refrigerant); which it is in this case.
I hate to tell you this, but my guess is you replaced all those components for nothing. The compressor looked like it was working properly. The orifice tube was sweating because it was receiving vapor instead of liquid refrigerant like it should. You should have emptied the system and refilled with the correct weighted charge.
jjenson2006
Two main problems with my system were an intermittent vibration from the compressor and the system would lose a recharge within a couple weeks time. The appearance of the vibration is what prompted me to change it. Early on, if I had known, all I would have had to do is replace the low pressure cut off sensor switch. That would have stopped the constant cycling of the compressor and surges in pressure in the system . O-rings needed to be replaced to.stop refrigerant loss. The system still works perfectly a year later still holding the original charge.
You will get compressor noises and vibrations if the system charge isn't right. Could also be a loose belt or loose mounting bolts. That's a big leak you had.
The compressor will short cycle if the charge is low; it's supposed to do that to protect the compressor because a low charge will distribute less oil to the compressor. The compressor starts, which pulls the low side lower causing the low pressure switch to shut off compressor. Then the pressure quickly equalizes, causing the compressor to turn back on again, repeating forever. If it had a full charge, that wouldn't happen. The fact that the compressor was cycling at a fast, steady rate proves the low pressure switch was working properly.
I guarantee you it would be at least 10 degrees cooler if you redid it the way I explained; but if you're happy with it the way it is, then that's all that matters.
jjenson2006
I think the low pressure switch caused the whole problem having changed the clutch 2 times previously. I for kicks out the old sensor back on and it exhibited the start stop condition then proper operation with the new switch again.
Well, I'd imagine the excessive starting and stopping will definitely cause premature wear on the clutch plate; but usually that would result in a wider air gap in the clutch which could be fixed by removing some shims, which will tighten the air gap to allow the clutch to activate.
As I said though, with a low charge, it's supposed to cycle fast like that and when it does, you're supposed to turn the system off until you get it recharged (after fixing the leaks). Your leak was so excessive that a soap and water test would have probably found it. However, you can do it pretty efficiently with a refrigerant sniffer or a UV dye.
jjenson2006
Well, it was a good learning challenge. I knew very little about AC before this and gained a fair working knowledge by the end. The next time will be better.
On the 07” super duty you have to take the bolts out the subframe and raise the engine as high as you can, blocked jack under oil pan so you can get the 13 mm bolt in the back
Very through explanations thanks.
thank you very much
Glad to have helped.
Great video, saved a lot of money
flakosarabia
Excellent! Glad it helped...
Great video....
Great tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you!
Hope it helped.
Great video I recharged mine but the air just got a little colder but not that much of a difference
Did you change your orafice tube or expansion valve? You also need to replace the accumulator or receiver dryer to remove contaminants. If the valves are clogged, you'll see frost on the tube leading into the evaporator in the dash. There should be a 30 to 40 degree difference between the outside temp and the air temp blowing out the vents with the AC on MAX.
should be blowing colder like 38 to 42 deg...... no ? maybe the thermometer needed to be pushed all the way in the vent to get a true reading... great video thanks
My understanding is an automotive AC system will cool inside, about 30 degrees cooler than the outside temperature.90F outside will get you 60F inside.
did you put 4ounces or 6ounces of pag oil into the accumulator? your screen caption said 4 but you verbally said 6.
It's been a while but I put 6 in the accumulator but said 4 reason being the system total was something like 6 ounces. I found after the fact the new compressor had 3 ounces already. So I have 9 oz. Total but I think the system only needed 6 oz so that's the discrepancy. I have been working fine with 9 oz since this video. I thi k I put 3 in the compressor and 3 in the accumulator.
@@CITAP1 Thank you! I'm grateful for your reply.
I just got around to watching your video to the end. Those vent temps are high. You should be getting a 40 degree difference or at least a 35 degree difference below ambient. There are reasons why you're not. I noticed that it is 76 degrees there and your vent temps were around 50 -55 degrees.
Your manifold hoses were backwards and had a leak as I mentioned in another post. I noticed when you closed off the high side coupler, the pressure on the gauge dropped; it shouldn't have if there were no leaks. Since it did, you definitely put some air in your system and that will definitely lower your vent temps.
You also put too much oil in the system. I looked up the capacity for your truck, it is 7 ounces. You did put 7 ounce in, but you didn't account for the oil that is already in the new compressor. Usually new compressors are shipped with some oil in them; probably around 5 ounces. You should have drained the new compressor into a clean container and weighed it out before putting it back in the compressor. Whatever amount is in there should be deducted from the 7 ounce total capacity. If there was 5 ounces in the compressor, you should only add 2 ounces to the system. Adding too much oil will coat the walls of the hoses and cores, insulating them so they don't transfer temperatures properly, it will also take up space that is reserved for refrigerant so your system will be overcharged even though you put the correct weighted charge in; which would explain your high temps.
If you are motivated enough, you can fix this problem by first reclaiming the refrigerant. Then flush out the system completely so you know there isn't any oil in it. Measure how much oil is in the compressor and put the correct amount (the difference) into the system; and don't put oil into the suction hose because compressors don't compress liquids. You can put all the oil in the accumulator. Hook the ac manifold hoses up correctly; evacuate for an hour or so. Make sure you hold a vacuum and charge the correct weighted refrigerant. Do this and you will have excellent vent temps, trust me!
jjenson2006
I know there is extra oil in the system. Hasn't posed a problem. The AC is working nicely and I get similar vent cooling temperatures to my brothers 97 F250 7.3 liter.
I do appreciate your input, I'm not an AC guy but I did my best and so far, so good. Saved a bit of money and had some fun.
_I get similar vent cooling temperatures to my brothers 97 F250 7.3 liter_
His AC has issues as well. After all, it is a 97.
_I'm not an AC guy but I did my best and so far, so good._
I'm not knocking what you did. Just helping you learn something in case you have to do this again, you will do a better job. Still in all, even with mistakes made, you save money and learn something; and that is a good thing. There was a time when I made mistakes in the past. One of them was putting too much oil into the system. I learn things the hard way and then I pass on the knowledge to those who are willing to learn so they don't make those same mistakes.
I thought PAG Oil goes into the AC Compressor? Why is it being put into the accumulator?
If there is no oil in the compressor, directions say to add 3 ounces to it. Add the rest to the accumulator which is the reservoir for the oil.
@@CITAP1 a reservoir for the oil? I thought the accumulators job was to move any moisture from the ac system?
Very good job my friend. Sounds like you've done this many times before. One question, I heard you say you pup Pag 46 oil (6oz.) In your accumulator, is this done in "all" accumulators? Thanks
I think the accumulator came with instructions. You need to figure how much total PAG oil your particular system takes, then determine if any of the new components like the compressor come with PAG oil installed. Mine had 3 OZ. Take your total specified amount and subtract any you know for fact is preinstalled, that will leave you with how much you actually need to install. I think My system actually has 2 OZ more than specified because I didn't know of the preinstalled PAG oil in the compressor. I've worked successfully on a couple systems.
Not to bust your chops or anything, I appreciate that people take their time out to make videos like this butt the hoses on your manifold are connected wrong. The straight connectors go to the manifold and the bent connectors go to the couplers. It is important that you connect them the right way because the seals in the end are specifically designed for what they mate to. The bent side that goes to the coupling has an external rubber gasket that seals the coupling around its rim, while the straight side has an internal rubber gasket that seals the manifold internally. They are not designed to work either way.
jjenson2006
That may be I had the hoses connected backwards but after an initial slight leak, there were no leaks. When vacuuming down the system for test and removal of moisture before charging, the manifold held vacuum for an hour and a half. A leak certainly would have prevented that. Looking and the connectors, they are identical fittings as I recall.
When you closed the red coupler, the needle dropped. It should not drop; in fact I could do the same and leave the manifold for weeks without the needle dropping. It dropped because there is a leak in your connection somewhere; I assumed it was because you connected it wrong, but it could also be a bad seal. It's a small leak, but a leak no less. The reason the needle didn't drop when the coupler was open is because there is a lot of volume in an AC system, so it would take a very long time for it to bleed down. When you close the coupler, there is only the tiny volume in the red hose, so if there is the tiniest leak, it will leak down quickly; does that make sense? If the fittings on your gauges look the same at both ends, then they must be a very cheap manifold/hoses. Still, the manifold set is designed to be connected the way I said. It would be smart to connect them that way. The angle on the end of the coupler side is there to give you more flexibility when connecting in some tight engine compartments. The straight side is needed on the manifold because you want the hoses to come straight down, not cocked to one side fighting gravity.
Yeah, I just noticed in your video that your couplers have an adapter between the hose and coupler; so those hoses can have identical ends. That is a cheap set. A good set doesn't use an adapter; they connect directly to the couplers. I imagine it would make production costs cheaper by having identical ends on the hoses. However, you should still connect them the right way. The weight of the hanging hose will put uneven stress on the seals because they are cocked to one side. This can cause leaks itself and will definitely cause premature wear. They probably have teflon seals instead of the easy to replace rubber seals of a good set.
jjenson2006
It's a Harbor Freight gauge set so probably among the cheapest. It does use what looks like a clearish nylon or similar seal. Last night driving home, I shut off the AC because it was getting too cold with mid 70's outside so I cracked a window instead. Perhaps not perfectly repaired but no reason has manifested since the repair to make any change necessary.
Yeah, those are throw away sets. You can't really replace the seals. They can do the job well though when they are new though.
Mid 70's isn't really hot; even a fan could feel good with low humidity. The true test will be when it's 90-100 degrees in the shade with high humidity.
This is a great video! I replaced all my AC components except the evaporator, which I flushed. Evacuated the system and refilled to about half the specified refrigerant charge. My low side will stay at 35 psi but my high side just kept climbing until I shut off the AC when it reached about 300 psi. I'm afraid to blow up my system! Why would the high side just keep climbing?
Anthony Hardman
Thank you, glad the video helped.
I would change the high pressure sensor switch. On my system, it's located down near the compressor on the smaller high pressure line going to the condenser. The low pressure switch is on the accumulator bottle. Hope that's solves the problem
Swapped the high pressure sensor switch, still seeing the high pressure line slowly creep towards 300 psi while the low pressure switch cuts the compressor off around 25 psi. When I swapped high pressure sensors refrigerant started hissing out the sensor port. I thought those were supposed to have schrader valves to prevent that? Makes me think there's an obstruction in the high pressure sensor port preventing the sensor from "seeing" all the pressure in the high pressure hose. Thoughts?
Mine had Schrader valves. You'll get some blow out as the sensor is being removed. The sensor presses the valve in as it is screwed onto the stem. It should stop when the sensor is removed. Take reasonable cautions for the unexpected. Remember, I got sprayed after the system was emptied just from temperature change when I removed a hose from the accumulator. There's always a chance the sensor you got was defective. You can also check for damaged or shorting wires to the sensor.
Another thing to try is to unplug the high pressure switch and place a jumper wire in the plug across the two terminals. The compressor should either run or not run depending on if the jumper is in or not. Refer to this part of video for the low pressure switch. ua-cam.com/video/TE7czWLXd3w/v-deo.htmlm58s
Anthony Hardman -x
Oh yea, I was told both you could and couldn't flush the condenser. Can you flush it out? I have 2006 dodge 2500 5.9l diesel 4x4 slt. Thanks Steve
I flushed out my condenser, blew it out with 80 psi air on a rubber tip nozzle, then flushed a second time blowing it out really well trying to remove the solvent and debris inside. You would get best results removing from the truck so you can turn it, shake it, and drain it most effectively. I was lazy and did mine in the truck. It still works great since doing this video.
Thank you very much my friend. I'm starting to have trouble "again with my A/C blowing warm air after replacing compressor- accumulator- liquid line with orifice tube and condenser a year back. Steve
@@stevedockery3534 You changed all the O-Rings? Very important to do that and put PAG oil on them before installation. If you look at the section of AC line immediately after the orifice tube, is frost forming on that section? Then the tube is clogged. Or connect your gauge set and is the pressure correct or low. If low, you have a leak. Try a recharge with a can of 134A with fluorescent dye, you may be able to find a leak with that and make a localized repair. OR you can have the refrigerant discharged and reinstall all new good grade O-Rings, then recharge the system. It's possible one or both the schrader system test ports could be damaged and need replacement. Hope you get things figured out.
which way did you end up putting the orifice tube in? Having similar issue with mine. Until recently I've always seen the larger end of the orifice tube pointing out toward the dryer but ran across several photos of people putting them the other way (the smaller end does have tabs for removal tool) but I can find no definitive information on which is correct.
The screen goes toward the accumulator bottle. That way it stops debris in the line.
ua-cam.com/video/TE7czWLXd3w/v-deo.htmlm27s
Link takes you to that point in the video.
If I recall, there some stop dimples in the tube the orafice goes into. I think it will stop the orafice one way at the correct depth, the wrong way, the orafice will slip in to deeply
Great instructive video. Thanks! I understand the pump sucks the air and moisture out. But what if it also sucks the new PAG oil out? Or is the Pag oil too heavy or what? What am I missing?
The PAG oil just stays where it is. The moisture turns to vapor and gets sucked out. The hoses don't collapse so the volume inside stays the same. That's why the oil just sits there in the vacuum . I imagine any oil sucked out would just lubricate the vacuum pump and run down the pumps exhaust port so you would know some was sucked out.
Ahh, vapors. That explains it. Thanks. I had a great aunt who suffered from that.
What if neither hose gets cold? I have a charged system, compressor running...but hot air coming out of the vents on MAX AC. None of the hoses or pipes get cold. (1993 Ford 150 R134)
Carlos G
Do know if there is refrigerant in the system and how much. To diagnose, you really need a gauge set like what I used from Harbor Freight. Is your ac clutch engaging. I list pressures you should see in the video. If your gauges show low pressure the system may have bleed off its refrigerant.
I am buying the gauges tomorrow. I just put EZ Freeze in there today and the pressure said it was OK. the compressor started up. No cold air.
Carlos G
If you got a can of 134a with a gauge, it really isn't telling you proper information, A gauge set will tell you the truth regarding both the high side and low side. The can gauge only gives you questionable information on the low pressure side. The functionality of the high pressure side will give you better answers as to why it's not cooling. The high pressure side is what sprays through the nozzle creating cold. Spend a couple minutes to read and understand the operation instructions
This guy is using EZ Freeze; which is propane, not r134a. I don't know why people use this instead of r134a. The weighted amount would be different than r134a, so you wouldn't know how much is a full charge and propane isn't very good at circulating PAG oil, so the compressor will have a shorter life.
I see you did not replace or have an expansion valve, so I am assuming that the orifice tube is the expander? I'm fixing to do mine but mine has an expansion valve I'm gonna replace along with the compressor, condensor, accumulator and flush out the lines and evaporator, and just have a shop vacuum and recharge the system for $100.
Expansion valve is the other method for automotive AC. Need a vacuum pump and the vacuum needs to hold at least 30 minutes with pump off.
I have a 2000 Jeep cherokee 4.0 it will not take freon.. Has been vacuumed. what will cause this...All help appreciated...i tried jumping it over from the switch and it blowed my big 20 amp fuse. Twice... you could hear the rpms raise a little but didnt kick the clutch in. Im showing both sides hot/power on the switch with a test light. Is that right...It will also blow a fuse if i try to bridge it over from the relay.. However i can kick the clutch in by running 1 wire from one of the wires on the compressor to the hot on the battery then clutch works... Still wont take freon. Help...
First, here are directions for using an AC GAUGE SET.
manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/92000-92999/Q92649.pdf
It's Harbor Freight but should apply to any gauge set. The hoses may also be directional and only work one way on the system connections.
Next, Is it possible you have an electrical short with one of the wires controlling the system You have a high and low pressure switch. You also have a wire going to the electromagnetic clutch on the compressor. Visually check all those wires for any rub through of the insulation on the wire due to engine vibration. If your blowing fuses, something is shorting out.
i recently change replace rhe the ac compressor and condensor on my 1999 chevy 1500 4.3 and not blowing cold air tje the line were the oriffice filter is gets cold the accumulator stays warm and compresor kicks on and off very often when i trie Putin a second can of freon it doesn't want take it
Sounds like your expansion valve is bad
You didn’t show how to evacuate the system, did you evacuate it out into the atmostphere??? Just asking...
My compressor froze or locked up on me and the system had developed a leak I could never find with florescent dyes. The system was empty. If your system is charged, take it to an AC shop and have it evacuated. Lots of times the reason people are servicing their AC is because the refrigerant has leaked out.
Helps to put vehicle Make, Model and Year in the title.
The principals of AC are the same on all systems with minor differences. This video is for a system using an orifice tube, some other systems use an expansion valve system with a thermal sensor instead of the orifice tube. The vehicle model and year is in the information and it becomes obvious what vehicle I'm working on in the video.
So, i dont understand, what actually was the specific item that was the cause of the initial fault? Or do we have to replace all items just in case, to fix a filed ac system?
The cause of failure was a plugged up orifice tube. I think some debris came from the compressor. It also had a failure in the low pressure cut out switch which was replaced. It has been about 2 and 1/2 years now and the system is still working great. Trouble free. You must do a few things to get a good fix. Get a new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube (be sure to install it the correct direction), change all the o-rings, Blow out the evaporator, condenser, and hoses. Spray AC flush solvent in all the components and blow out again, wear a mask. Reassemble, vacuum down and test for an hour vacuum hold. If good, charge the system and you should be ready to go.
@@CITAP1 hi, thanks for the update and feedback. Appreciate your advice.
Am currently trying to solve a failed system, but without the option to just replace non required parts due to the cost of some items here in Australia. So a accurate 100 percent diagnosis is needed. Your video has helped in try g to narrow down and in some cases eliminate the likely cause of a few issues on the system, effectively and hopefully limiting what items get replaced unnecessarily.
Thanks again.
@@johndee68 I know how costs creep up on you. I spent close to 4000.00 replacing my engine a couple months ago.
The cheapest thing you can change is the orifice tube. If it is blocked, you should see frost form on the AC line right after it. Debris collects there. You may be able to get away with just replacing that and the orings at that connection and cleaning out any debris you see in the tubes or hoses. If your AC compressor is working and cycling ok, you might be able to get away with just that and recharging the system. If that doesn't work, your basically out 5 dollars for the orifice tube and cost of refrigerant. Hope this gives you enough to decide what to do. Good luck with it.
@@CITAP1 hi,
My system has a thermal expansion valve system. I've narrowed down the possible cause of the fault to be the low pressure side of the compressor being unable to get the gas down to low enough pressure for the expansion valve to do its work? Though I am not able to find a video which can confirm a compressor failure in an identical way, so am hesitant to just diagnose the compressor as the cause yet.
Thanks again.
@@johndee68
Have you put a gauge set on the AC system? I'm not expert but if the low side of the compressor isn't working, it could be due to the high side not pushing through the expansion valve. I understand a lot of the time, the problem is the expansion valve or the orifice tube. These are the two main AC system types. Ford = orifice tube and accumulator bottle, GM = expansion valve with temp sensor probe and receiver dryer bottle. If there is a frost on the pipe immediately following the valve type, there is blockage in the valve. Your high pressure area is from before the compressor out, through the condenser and bottle to the valve. If the compressor is working, there will be high pressure output. If there is a blockage, the pressure will be higher. The low side will be lower. If the pressure on the high side and low side are the same or close, the compressor may not be working. If you have rapid on of of the clutch, what I had, it may be the low pressure cut out switch sensor.
12:28 HE STRUCK OIL! XD
rwdplz1
And that was with the system evacuated. The lines heated up driving around and that caused enough change in pressure to get that blast.
It's always a good idea to poke the schrader valve just before opening the system.
my hoses have valves on one end so you probably let tons of air into the system.
My hoses connect to valves on the gauge set. My hoses also connect to valves with quick connectors at the other end that go onto the accumulator and high pressure side. If you watched the full video, you would see the system was vacuumed down and held vacuum for an hour without gauge movement. You need a piercing valve to go onto the refrigerant bottle you're going to start filling the system with. Connect the valve and hose to the refrigerant canister and loosely to the gauge set. Open the valve slightly and purge all air from the hose and immediately tighten the hose end on the gauge set. You have now purged all from the system and are ready to start charging the system. As each canister of refrigerant empties during the charging process, close the valve on the canister piercing valve. The canister will purge any air as the new canister discharges when being attached. Complete filling system with recommended amount of refrigerant.
My system has been operating flawlessly since making this video.
Her are user directions for the Harbor Freight Gauge Set.
manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/92000-92999/Q92649.pdf
@@CITAP1 I think the harbor freight hoses have the bend at the manifold instead of at the couplers which threw me off. My hoses have a valve on one end so now I don't know which way they go since they will screw on either way.
@@brentbradley6711 The picture shows the bends at the gauge set. I had an initial small leak but loosening and re-tightening remedied that and it worked fine. Look at your directions and connect as shown if they show that detail. You'll know if it's working when you connect things together. If your gauges aren't showing anything, try reversing the hoses then. You should be able to fiddle through and get it done.
@@CITAP1 OK thanks, there are no directions so I will try both ways...……….
@@brentbradley6711 Good Luck and Let me know how things turn out!
Is that a chocolate milk dispenser or a degas bottle?
Neither of those, Not sure which thing you are referring to. In the right light and in the early morning, the gauge set could be confused for an Espresso Machine...
The coolant degas bottle. It looks like a bunch of fuel or oil seeped in from the injector cups.
@@tonecrazy88
OK, I had to replace the head gaskets a few years back. Probably the reason I got a suspiciously good price on the truck. It turned out in the original machining of the engine block top deck, there was a gouge ground into the deck on the front right corner of the block right where a water passage going into the head and a cylinder wall is. The gunk in the tank is remnants of Bars Leak radiator sealer which didn't work. It was one of those things where I changed the head gaskets and three months later it failed. Then at that time, Fel-Pro just released an improved gasket so I installed a second set of head gaskets thinking that would solve the problem. 6 months later, it failed again. This third time, I got out the feeler gauges and a machinists straight edge and went over the block deck to see what was the matter. That's how I discovered the gouge in that one spot. Everywhere else was flat! I blue taped the cylinders off below deck, got a flat block and some 80 grit sand paper and went to it sanding on both sides, counting passes, keeping things equal. I went through the grits to 400 and got a perfectly flat surface after an hour of sanding. I cleaned things up, put the timing chains covers and all those parts back together for the third time. I was getting good at it by now. The engine has run great ever since excepting for the 3 spark plug blowouts. But that's another video.
CITAP1 wow that’s crazy man. I just had a shop put two new heads and gaskets today. All motor craft of course. Plus I rebuilt the turbo, new fuel lines, new injector orings, cleaned injectors etc radiator flush new degas bottle all new hoses....
My 7.3 should be good for another 312k miles. Hahaha
@@tonecrazy88
My brother has a 7.3 in his 1997 F-250 and his son has a 7.3 in his 2003 F-350. It's a prize engine!
I'm stuck with this 5.4 that's under powered for towing or truck camper hauling into the mountains.
I'll choose more wisely on the next rig.
Your sure hard on your glow plugs never start before your start light goes out!
I'm guessing you meant to comment on another video I have about repairing blown out spark-plugs. This is a gas engine. 5.4 Liter. A common problem with this engine's aluminum cylinder heads.
Looks like the hoses are on backwards.
They AC system hoses only go on or connect one way. If you mean the gauge set, on the Harbor Freight gauge set, they fit either way. I'm told other brands may be directional.
@@CITAP1 I just got a new set of gauges today and the hoses go either way but one end has a valve in it.
@@brentbradley6711
Harbor Freight Gauge Set Directions Show all connections and valves.
manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/92000-92999/Q92649.pdf
A/C Shop repairs probably last at least a season rather than the next day, $ wasted.
I did this July 2017 and it's August 22, 2019. That's 2 plus years since the repair and working great.