Steve, it's nice stuff. It's a bit different than glue stick or dope so try it on a test piece first. It can really soften the tissue if you let it. But it's great to use for paper fillets because of that.
I usually do the tips first, then work toward the root. I think it looks a little better. Your way looks a bit easier, though, because you're working with a smaller piece for that finicky fit. Nice video. Thanks.
Hello John. This is another of your videos that is going into my "Saved" file. I have always struggled with doing wingtips and wing roots. This has explained exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for your videos. They are much appreciated out here in the hinterlands of Alberta.
An interesting video that I enjoyed watching. Why did you do the wing tips separately? I always do mine using a single sheet of tissue so as not to have an unnecessary join. How do you get rid of those pencil lines afterwards? Can't see their purpose. I use diluted pva glue to stick the tissue onto the frame, I've never had any problems with it. Another tip, if you let the glue soak well into the tissue you can tear it very easily, this gives a much better edge because it doesn't have any sharp edges, it gives a feathered edge which cannot be seen.
The tip is done separately to minimize wrinkles. Think of it like a piece of sheet metal. If it was done in one piece, you'll never be able to complete the tip without some wrinkles that hopefully will come out when you shrink it. So, the point here, is that curved cut across the end rib is important and is what you need if you were covering it with sheet metal..... or tissue. My indoor scale models have a very light delicate structure that does not hold up to tissue shrinking. So, they are covered dry, no shrinking or doping. Everything is done to ensure no wrinkles when covering. You can see this in my Miles Sparrowhawk video. ua-cam.com/video/apOXvEey-30/v-deo.html The pencil line is left on the scrap of tissue. I cut on the inside of the pencil line. PVA is fine for covering, but the Elmers Clear is the lightest adhesive I've found for covering. It's corn-based and has a high solvent volume (actually water) that off gases when dry. Similar to applying microfilm with saliva. It has a nice matt, clear finish when dry and makes the tissue seams disappear so no need to feather edges. Thanks for watching!
@@Watchingthevideos99 Many thanks for your detailed reply. I didn't know that you didn't shrink your tissue afterwards and flew indoors, I'm new to your channel. When I want to make a really lightweight 'plane I cover it with cling film, pva will stick it to the frame. However its main advantage is that you can shrink it with a hairdryer, with a bit of practice!
Tony, yes I know others that use cling film. It can be a good way to go. The Japanese tissue I use weighs around 11 grams per square yard. Have fun with your projects!
It's a good question Peter. Sometimes I will and it's fine to do it. When you do glue to the spar, you may have the spar stand out a bit more once the tissue is shrunk and sealed. Also, not glueing to the spar will give a more uniform shrink to the piece of tissue. But really, either way works. Thanks for watching.
A light mist of water or rubbing alcohol. On an indoor model with a real light structure, it may not get shrunk at all so not to risk the structure from warping.
Another fantastic video! Are you using this technique on larger surfaces such as a fuselage and wings? I'm trying it now on a simple BRS with good results.
Thank you David. Yes, this has become my "go-to" adhesive for covering. Really like the way to works and so much easier when you can brush it on. It's also great for paper parts like wing fillets and applying paper "decals". Thanks for watching! Gives me the motivation to make more. 🙂
the tissue in the video is Esaki tissue. No longer made so old stock for me. There are several other very good tissues available as a replacement for Esaki. Peck Polymers carries Asuka Japanese tissue. This is a bit softer than Esaki with a lighter shrink. The weight is comparable to Esaki. You can find it here: www.wind-it-up.com/collections/japanese-tissue For larger models, Mt Fuji Japanese tissue is a good choice. Great colors, a bit stronger shrink and a bit stiff. Also a bit heavier than Esaki. Easy Built Models carry that tissue: easybuiltmodels.com/esaki.htm#gsc.tab=0 Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Joseph, no additional preparation of the tissue. The piece you see was cut from a larger sheet and then chalked. I could to a post video, but it really only involves applying the seal coat of either Krylon or Nitrate.
I never knew that clear glue existed. I have been using titebond thinned about 40% glue to 60% water. Will have to try this. I never have luck with the glue sticks.
John, Me too on the glue sticks. Never a fan. But I really like this stuff. The glue can be thinned a bit but lately I don't even bother. Just keep the brush wet. It's very slippery when it's first applied which can work in your favor. But be careful to let it sit too long and then pull on the tissue. It has a strange way of softening the tissue before it dries. I think that's similar to using Titebond now that I think of it. Once dry, it's fine. That soften comes in handy when you use it to apply paper wing fillets. 🙂 I learned this glue is corn-based and you'll see it dries very light. I've begun using it to laminate wing tip pieces and it works great for that. Have fun!
Fred, good point! I should have mentioned that in the video. Yes, that's water. I'm finding you don't want to thin the Clear too much, but a bit of thinning really helps it spread easier. So, I dip the brush and combine with the glue until I have a consistency that makes it usable for me. Experiment with what will work for you but don't go too thin, it will begin to make the tissue too wet and begin to break down the tissue. The key is to pull out all the wrinkles while it's slippery before it gets too sticky. Have fun!
Thank you for very much for sharing your tips by taking the time to make this video, John. It's very inspiring to adopt new techniques for improvement and I learned a lot from it:) I also, bought some Elmers clear glue to experiment with, so it has to be applied to a "new project", right?
Hi Barry. Thank you for your kind words. Glad you are enjoying the videos. Yes, give that Elmer's Clear a try! It's a bit different than covering with glue stick or dope so some adjustments to your methods may be required. But if you can adapt, I think you'll like it. The one thing to watch for is it will really soften the tissue and if you wait too long, it will begin to allow the tissue to tear if you pull too hard. The key is to work quickly and apply it fairly thick, so it allows the tissue to slide. Have fun!
That technique doesn’t always work, depending on the compound curvature. Sometimes you have to cut the tissue and overlap to get rid of the wrinkle(s).
Excellent! Nothing wrong with that and obviously it's worked well for you for many years. That's great! I do it that way too sometimes. Just offering an alternative here. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for your comment, Jerome. I'm a lifelong model builder, but strictly an amateur video editor. I'll make a note for future reference. Trying to get better.
@@Watchingthevideos99 I enjoyed the video! Great work! I’m watching these because I’m going to build another one. Last time I made one I was ten years old. Back in 1990!
Sitting breathless agan watching you surgeon work, thank you for the modeling lesson
You're welcome and thanks again for watching.
Thank you for another of your great tips.
Thank you Terry. Glad it was some help.
Thank you John. I just ordered Elmers clear. Very helpful!
Steve, it's nice stuff. It's a bit different than glue stick or dope so try it on a test piece first. It can really soften the tissue if you let it. But it's great to use for paper fillets because of that.
@@Watchingthevideos99 Yes I do have those coming up on the wings for the HE. 112 Thanks John.
Show-off! Great as usual, my friend! I'd have only done one thing different- when I lifted my left hand, that green paper would have been glued to it.
😂Thank you. But hey, we've got to get you back to chopping some balsa!
I usually do the tips first, then work toward the root. I think it looks a little better. Your way looks a bit easier, though, because you're working with a smaller piece for that finicky fit. Nice video. Thanks.
Thank you for your comment. Yes, certainly many ways to slice this one.
Hello John. This is another of your videos that is going into my "Saved" file. I have always struggled with doing wingtips and wing roots. This has explained exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for your videos. They are much appreciated out here in the hinterlands of Alberta.
Thank you Glenn. Glad I could help out. You must get a lot of building done this time of year in Alberta. Stay warm and hope that spring comes early!
An interesting video that I enjoyed watching.
Why did you do the wing tips separately? I always do mine using a single sheet of tissue so as not to have an unnecessary join. How do you get rid of those pencil lines afterwards? Can't see their purpose. I use diluted pva glue to stick the tissue onto the frame, I've never had any problems with it. Another tip, if you let the glue soak well into the tissue you can tear it very easily, this gives a much better edge because it doesn't have any sharp edges, it gives a feathered edge which cannot be seen.
The tip is done separately to minimize wrinkles. Think of it like a piece of sheet metal. If it was done in one piece, you'll never be able to complete the tip without some wrinkles that hopefully will come out when you shrink it. So, the point here, is that curved cut across the end rib is important and is what you need if you were covering it with sheet metal..... or tissue. My indoor scale models have a very light delicate structure that does not hold up to tissue shrinking. So, they are covered dry, no shrinking or doping. Everything is done to ensure no wrinkles when covering. You can see this in my Miles Sparrowhawk video. ua-cam.com/video/apOXvEey-30/v-deo.html The pencil line is left on the scrap of tissue. I cut on the inside of the pencil line. PVA is fine for covering, but the Elmers Clear is the lightest adhesive I've found for covering. It's corn-based and has a high solvent volume (actually water) that off gases when dry. Similar to applying microfilm with saliva. It has a nice matt, clear finish when dry and makes the tissue seams disappear so no need to feather edges. Thanks for watching!
@@Watchingthevideos99 Many thanks for your detailed reply. I didn't know that you didn't shrink your tissue afterwards and flew indoors, I'm new to your channel.
When I want to make a really lightweight 'plane I cover it with cling film, pva will stick it to the frame. However its main advantage is that you can shrink it with a hairdryer, with a bit of practice!
Tony, yes I know others that use cling film. It can be a good way to go. The Japanese tissue I use weighs around 11 grams per square yard. Have fun with your projects!
Any particular reason you don't glue the tissue to the spar as well as the rib?
It's a good question Peter. Sometimes I will and it's fine to do it. When you do glue to the spar, you may have the spar stand out a bit more once the tissue is shrunk and sealed. Also, not glueing to the spar will give a more uniform shrink to the piece of tissue. But really, either way works. Thanks for watching.
How do you shrink it tight?
A light mist of water or rubbing alcohol. On an indoor model with a real light structure, it may not get shrunk at all so not to risk the structure from warping.
Great topic, thanks 👍
Thanks for watching!
Another fantastic video! Are you using this technique on larger surfaces such as a fuselage and wings? I'm trying it now on a simple BRS with good results.
Thank you David. Yes, this has become my "go-to" adhesive for covering. Really like the way to works and so much easier when you can brush it on. It's also great for paper parts like wing fillets and applying paper "decals". Thanks for watching! Gives me the motivation to make more. 🙂
What type of tissue are you using and where do you get it/
the tissue in the video is Esaki tissue. No longer made so old stock for me. There are several other very good tissues available as a replacement for Esaki. Peck Polymers carries Asuka Japanese tissue. This is a bit softer than Esaki with a lighter shrink. The weight is comparable to Esaki. You can find it here: www.wind-it-up.com/collections/japanese-tissue
For larger models, Mt Fuji Japanese tissue is a good choice. Great colors, a bit stronger shrink and a bit stiff. Also a bit heavier than Esaki. Easy Built Models carry that tissue: easybuiltmodels.com/esaki.htm#gsc.tab=0
Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Great video John. Thanks. Is the tissue processed in any way prior to applying besides dusting.? How about a video on post processing?
Joseph, no additional preparation of the tissue. The piece you see was cut from a larger sheet and then chalked. I could to a post video, but it really only involves applying the seal coat of either Krylon or Nitrate.
I never knew that clear glue existed. I have been using titebond thinned about 40% glue to 60% water. Will have to try this. I never have luck with the glue sticks.
John, Me too on the glue sticks. Never a fan. But I really like this stuff. The glue can be thinned a bit but lately I don't even bother. Just keep the brush wet. It's very slippery when it's first applied which can work in your favor. But be careful to let it sit too long and then pull on the tissue. It has a strange way of softening the tissue before it dries. I think that's similar to using Titebond now that I think of it. Once dry, it's fine. That soften comes in handy when you use it to apply paper wing fillets. 🙂 I learned this glue is corn-based and you'll see it dries very light. I've begun using it to laminate wing tip pieces and it works great for that. Have fun!
@@Watchingthevideos99 thanks for the "tip".
@@johnmajane3731 you're welcome!
Hi John, When you are using the clear glue, what is in the little cup you dip the brush in? Is it just water? Great video as always!
Fred, good point! I should have mentioned that in the video. Yes, that's water. I'm finding you don't want to thin the Clear too much, but a bit of thinning really helps it spread easier. So, I dip the brush and combine with the glue until I have a consistency that makes it usable for me. Experiment with what will work for you but don't go too thin, it will begin to make the tissue too wet and begin to break down the tissue. The key is to pull out all the wrinkles while it's slippery before it gets too sticky. Have fun!
Thank you ❤️❤️❤️
You're welcome! 🙂
Thank you for very much for sharing your tips by taking the time to make this video, John. It's very inspiring to adopt new techniques for improvement and I learned a lot from it:) I also, bought some Elmers clear glue to experiment with, so it has to be applied to a "new project", right?
Hi Barry. Thank you for your kind words. Glad you are enjoying the videos. Yes, give that Elmer's Clear a try! It's a bit different than covering with glue stick or dope so some adjustments to your methods may be required. But if you can adapt, I think you'll like it. The one thing to watch for is it will really soften the tissue and if you wait too long, it will begin to allow the tissue to tear if you pull too hard. The key is to work quickly and apply it fairly thick, so it allows the tissue to slide. Have fun!
why do i need a drum machine to cover a wing
I'm sorry. Strictly amateur here. I'm just an old, retired guy trying to share my hobby but I know this is pretty bad production.
@@Watchingthevideos99 no good video just dont understand why people need drum machines
That technique doesn’t always work, depending on the compound curvature. Sometimes you have to cut the tissue and overlap to get rid of the wrinkle(s).
Yeah, I wet the tissue. That is how I learn to do it back in 1954...
Excellent! Nothing wrong with that and obviously it's worked well for you for many years. That's great! I do it that way too sometimes. Just offering an alternative here. Thank you for your comment.
thanks for the tips! checkout my video of my trixter beam build. getting ready to start a bellanca cruisemaster!
Weird noises are distracting.
? ???????
Had to mute. That noise is like nails on a chalk board.
Thank you for your comment, Jerome. I'm a lifelong model builder, but strictly an amateur video editor. I'll make a note for future reference. Trying to get better.
@@Watchingthevideos99 I enjoyed the video! Great work! I’m watching these because I’m going to build another one. Last time I made one I was ten years old. Back in 1990!
@@jeromebullard6123 Thank you. Glad to hear you're giving the hobby another try. Have fun! What are you building?
@@Watchingthevideos99 Comet Piper Cub peanut scale
@@Watchingthevideos99 same one I made (poorly) as a child. I want to make this one to perfection. Not to be flown. Just to display.