Great video. I have a suggestion. When you leave a digital ohmmeter in AUTO range the value jumps all over the place. Try setting the range to 1k ohms or 10 k ohms. Something closer to the expected value. That way the decimal point will stay in one spot and you will see the values progressing up and down without all the flashing numbers.
What a lesson on step by step elimination diagnostics, all to discover an issue at the connector apparently. Thank you for the knowledge yet again Ivan.
I pulled the chime/buzzer out of my wife’s 2011 Kia Soul, scrambled the noise making part of it with a screwdriver and reinstalled. Sometimes on a quiet night you can hear it faintly trying to make some noise but sure is nice!
Can't wait for part 2! I'm presently working an a friend's antique car with 2 intermittent problems at once! I work on one until the other returns, then switch to the second one. Yesterday, it started every time (one problem is not cranking over), and ran perfectly - until it moved 14 feet!
One thing I've found useful in electrical testing when things get confusing is regression testing. That is, as I'm tracing things, I'll go back to a previous step to see if I get the same results. Lets me know if I'm accidentally changing things or not or if I missed something.
Very informative Ivan. You are presenting this case very clearly. I was having trouble following you on the two previous series on the vintage cars (91 Audi & 87 MR2). (Looking forward to seeing you with 200K subscribers.)
So nice to hear someone talk about diagnostics, instead of parts changing. And so true that 80% of diagnostics today is research. Thank God for the Internet. You are speaking truth. Unfortunately many of the folks in this field haven't read a word since they were in High School.
The only thing I don't like about having videos in different parts is that I just can't wait to see the other one. But do get the whole purpose and idea behind it 😂. For someone who knows/understands what you're doing there it's amazing and very satisfying. Keep it up Ivan 💪👍👍🔥
In Ford's defense, those Firestone Radial ATX tires were garbage. The 1996 Explorer we had had more flat tire incidents than I have seen on all others throughout my life combined to that point. In one incident, a small rock, about 7mm average diameter, got stuck in the tread, and that's where the leak was. In light of these incidents, I can clearly understand how frequent tire blowouts would be a problem.
@@paulstandaert5709 Yeah the tires may have been below average but inflating them to 26 psi SURELY did not help them retain any structural integrity as they aged. If they were inflated to 35 psi the whole thing probably never would have happened.
@@kevin9c1 that's the question. The P235 75r15 tire was relatively large for such a vehicle, so I would think that the 26 PSI was plenty sufficient. As an extreme example, a monster truck tire probably has 5psi in it. I see lots of vehicles come into the shop with tire pressures in the low 20s that have been like that for who knows how long, and it is never a problem. We wore out the Radial ATX tires before the recall, but we kept them for landscaping purposes. When the recall debuted, we dug them out of the ground, re-mounted them, and brought it in for the recall. They were replaced by Wilderness ATs, which never had any problems. Then THOSE got recalled, so we got yet another set of tires put on it.
@@kevin9c1 I would do the same. It's either that, or say that I mass produced many hundreds of thousands of defective tires. I do not believe that I have never seen a tire with a minimum pressure rating on it. That minimum would depend on the size of the tire and the load it carries. But those punctures that I fixed on those Radial ATX tires were ridiculous. I dealt with it often enough that I actually remember the kind and tire size from over 24 years ago. Who else knows what kind of tire and size they had on a vehicle in the late 1990s? Any subsequent tire that went on that vehicle was never a problem.
That customer knows where to find 24 carat solutions. 3 hours and not a bother. There's nothing worse on this planet than driving a problematic car. It just gets personal the longer it persists. The best of 2024 on this project.
IIRC RSC stands for "Roll Stability Control." That Mountaineer is based on the 4th generation Ford Explorer. That ended production in 2010 after which Ford placed the Explorer on the D3/D4 chassis. This generation was rear-wheel drive based. Then they switched it to front-wheel drive based. Then they switched it back to rear-wheel drive based on the CT6? platform. While it was close it wasn't the last Mercury vehicle produced; that distinction goes to the 'ol Marquis on January 4, 2011. I've heard of the high speed CAN bus, the medium speed, and the low speed. I wonder which one is the problem. Can't wait for part 2. GREAT VIDEO!
Yeah, it seemed like it had to be so close to the module in the interior, but I'll bet that climbing in/out of the car rocked it enough to affect the under hood stuff.
North East Salt and electrical Co not mix well. Especially with green crusties!! Terminal fretting as well. Nice job on checking for ohms and stuff. Good lesson to learn!!
Ivan you are very close to 200k subscribers!! Your followers need to push that number over the top!~ You deserve it! Thanks buddy for all the great learnin',.....
It's crazy to me that it's still that low. Granted, I've never seen youtube show me one of his videos in the recommended; I only found this channel through 'word of mouth" and other mechanics talking about it, so I physically looked it up; so I wonder why UA-cam is not promoting it at all? strange
@@calholli Now that you mention it I've had the same thing happen. The only way I know anything about Ivan is I saw him on Eric O's channel and started to watch him that way. I physically have to type in "Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics" to get to his videos.
I've never had brake or abs issues on any of my Panthers. Even the ones from the early 90s still work. The pedal on my 95 Town Car is hard as can be and it stops right away with new S.U.R&R EZ BEND brake lines and the flare nuts with the 7/16" and 9/16" heads for 3/16 and 1/4 brake line although this car only uses 3/16 brake line.
I am sure you have solved this problem already. However, when you measured the CAN bus disconnected and got 135 ohms instead of the specified 120 ohms and then with it connected and got 64.5 ohms, this is a clue. A CAN bus must be terminated on both ends. If both ends were the same resistance, the specified 120 ohms, you would get 60 ohms with both ends connected. The parallel resistance of 135 ohms and 120 ohms is 63.5 ohms. If I was following correctly the 135 ohms was with the sensor module disconnected and 64.5 ohms with it connected has verified that the ABS module termination is out of spec and the sensor module is 120 ohms and in spec.
these ABS/STABILITY control systems can be a nightmare.. so many components.. even a bad wheel speed sensor can cause them to manfunction.,,. have been fighting the ABS/DSC system on my bmw z3 since I got it.. luckily my bmw doesnt sound like a garbage truck back up siren when it throws a code.. cracked solder joints in the DSC modules is common on the z3 beamers.. seized ABS pumps, yaw rate sensors out of calibration, and on and on.,
Ivan, finally 200K subs congrats you deserved it this channel should have way more subscribers and hope 2024 bring you more success and health thanks for sharing and what an amazing approach and thought process waiting for part two. cheeeers
I had a 95 F150 5spd manual and a 2002 F350 7.3L 6spd manual.. both trucks past 300k miles, and I never had any issues with either one; other than the usual starter/alternator/water pump/etc.. Otherwise they have been rock solid reliable and start every time. I did have an issue where the solenoid for the glow plugs physically blew apart, so it was a little harder to start in the cold; but after I seen it and swapped in another $10 solenoid, it starts very easy on the coldest days now, again. Same with my 2002 Acura MDX. I've had good luck with my vehicles.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Ford has forgotten more about making bulletproof cars than most manufacturers have ever learned, having said that this car is old enough to need some attention, not the end of the world just annoying
Huh. I thought after it suddenly went open circuit without even opening the hood that there'd be green crusties in one of the intermediate connectors and no parts required. Can't wait for part 2 now.
You'll definitely want to watch, part 2. Long story short, I'm the owner of this Mountaineer now. It was my mothers, whom passed away in October of 2022. She had this problem with the Mountaineer while she was still with us. She and her boyfriend of 40+ years, tried to have a mechanic solve the problem, but never could pinpoint what the problem was. I'm always up for a challenge, so I told my siblings that I would take it and see if I could fix it, to possibly sell it, or maybe, just keep it in the family. I diagnosed it to a certain point, but then it kept playing games with me and knew I had to take it to Ivan to get to the bottom of it ,and I hope it helps anybody else that might have one of these vehicles, with this issue.
@@russellhltn1396 Unfortunately, my mother was the one that had to endure it, which she did for years. I, on the other hand, only had to deal with it for a few days. 👍 And the worst, was driving it up to Ivan's place. 2.5 hours of mayhem!😂
Do we think the pins on the ABS connector have been damaged by using wrong test probes and they have been opened up? That why Ivan recons it gets worse, and that connector isnt the only fault?
Ivan has balls of steel saying, “it’s only four wires so the diagnosis should be pretty straightforward,” within earshot of the offending machine. Said machine said, “hold my beer and watch this.”
That would have been the "easy" fix, but I love a challenge and wanted to get down to the real issue. Plus, the buzzer is soldered into the instrument cluster, so I really didn't want to go to that point. You'll definitely want to watch part 2! And thanks for the compliment!
So its getting close to the abs module, a single cruddy pin on the abs module connector or the harness plug. Not forgetting the wire insulation rubbed off, lovely damp and green lol. Acid battery near wiring, what a silly idea. Don't they name things with confusing names. Call a fork a fork, not a clastication booble flange lol.
On fords it's a tedious procedure. You have to buckle and unbuckle each front seatbelt 10 or more times within a set amount of time. I remember doing this on my service truck.
@@mikeburdi3464 on modern vehicles the chime is integrated into the audio system and door speakers. On some anyway. I installed an aftermarket radio on a 2004 grand am once and had to buy a chime kit to turn off the "service vehicle soon" light.
My Ford's ABS worked only for about a year the dealership was never able to fix it under warranty It only had 45,000 km on it I'll never buy Ford again their cars are junk
Now you know how annoying it is for British people watching American cars being fixed with the constant gongs and chimes they make when you are starting them up 🤣🤣
You can turn them off with the scantool.. it's in the options inside the body module, usually. You can turn off the auto locking doors and the auto window roll down.. the door dinger.. and even the seat belt warning buzzer, etc. It's all in the scan tool; there are plenty of good one's to choose from now.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I don't know if it is possible to disable what you are talking about, however, I have disabled seatbelt man from "ding, ding" when the vehicle is underway. You must read all this crap in the owner's manual about the dangers of disabling before you can do it, though.
Engineered to fail by being in a really bad environment. No protection, lots of vibration, small wires. Access from the bottom or side through wheel well might be better. On to part 2.
Gotta love a Mountaineer I think in my time, I've now owned 9 explorers. 2 currently in my possession and most reliable vehicles ever... over 400000 miles on these two alone
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsI had a 2004 ranger with the 4.0 SOHC and 5R55E drivetrain. Trans blew up at 170k. Only reason it made it that far was I installed a shift kit and changed the fluid every 20k.
@@matth5309 My sister had to put an $1800 reman trans in hers... Then a year later it was wrecked and totaled. smh.. All that money and time I helped them put it in-- wasted
That will drive a person nuts I had a Ford pinto station wagon the seat belt buzzard going off I had the belt on as soon you started to drive the buzzer go off you come to a stop the buzzard stop buzzing you take off the sound come back on
Sorry, couldn’t continue to watch through to the end. Your presentation would be so much better if the visual image wasn’t bouncing all over the place. Put a couple GoPros on tripods and your story telling will be significantly better.
Ford is the first problem (electrical gremlins) the second is the corrosion, this is why living in the rust-belt like I do where we use excessive salt and calcium chloride brine on the roads, I have my cars sprayed annually with a creeping high zinc oil type corrosion preventing rust proofing compound from Krown. NEVER EVER had any green crusties on electrical connectors or wires and I keep my cars until the wheels fall off at 15-20 years later. Mice also don't like the taste of this being sprayed all over the place under the hood and inside body / rocker panels so they won't chew the wires either.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. I have a suggestion. When you leave a digital ohmmeter in AUTO range the value jumps all over the place. Try setting the range to 1k ohms or 10 k ohms. Something closer to the expected value. That way the decimal point will stay in one spot and you will see the values progressing up and down without all the flashing numbers.
It's not just that.. He was losing contact completely and wiggling/ testing it. it's going to flash the numbers
What a lesson on step by step elimination diagnostics, all to discover an issue at the connector apparently. Thank you for the knowledge yet again Ivan.
I pulled the chime/buzzer out of my wife’s 2011 Kia Soul, scrambled the noise making part of it with a screwdriver and reinstalled. Sometimes on a quiet night you can hear it faintly trying to make some noise but sure is nice!
haha
Saturday morning with Ivan and coffee. Great !
Agree 👍
PHAD will have to start selling their own coffee.😄
Can't wait for part 2! I'm presently working an a friend's antique car with 2 intermittent problems at once! I work on one until the other returns, then switch to the second one. Yesterday, it started every time (one problem is not cranking over), and ran perfectly - until it moved 14 feet!
One thing I've found useful in electrical testing when things get confusing is regression testing. That is, as I'm tracing things, I'll go back to a previous step to see if I get the same results. Lets me know if I'm accidentally changing things or not or if I missed something.
Very informative Ivan. You are presenting this case very clearly. I was having trouble following you on the two previous series on the vintage cars (91 Audi & 87 MR2). (Looking forward to seeing you with 200K subscribers.)
So nice to hear someone talk about diagnostics, instead of parts changing. And so true that 80% of diagnostics today is research. Thank God for the Internet. You are speaking truth. Unfortunately many of the folks in this field haven't read a word since they were in High School.
The only thing I don't like about having videos in different parts is that I just can't wait to see the other one. But do get the whole purpose and idea behind it 😂.
For someone who knows/understands what you're doing there it's amazing and very satisfying. Keep it up Ivan 💪👍👍🔥
The chime is clearly because some engineers (and attorneys) at Ford vividly remember the Explorer/Firestone rollover debacle of the 90s.
In Ford's defense, those Firestone Radial ATX tires were garbage. The 1996 Explorer we had had more flat tire incidents than I have seen on all others throughout my life combined to that point. In one incident, a small rock, about 7mm average diameter, got stuck in the tread, and that's where the leak was.
In light of these incidents, I can clearly understand how frequent tire blowouts would be a problem.
@@paulstandaert5709 Yeah the tires may have been below average but inflating them to 26 psi SURELY did not help them retain any structural integrity as they aged. If they were inflated to 35 psi the whole thing probably never would have happened.
@@kevin9c1 that's the question. The P235 75r15 tire was relatively large for such a vehicle, so I would think that the 26 PSI was plenty sufficient. As an extreme example, a monster truck tire probably has 5psi in it. I see lots of vehicles come into the shop with tire pressures in the low 20s that have been like that for who knows how long, and it is never a problem.
We wore out the Radial ATX tires before the recall, but we kept them for landscaping purposes. When the recall debuted, we dug them out of the ground, re-mounted them, and brought it in for the recall. They were replaced by Wilderness ATs, which never had any problems. Then THOSE got recalled, so we got yet another set of tires put on it.
@@paulstandaert5709 I think Firestone went on record saying the pressure/loading was out of spec.
@@kevin9c1 I would do the same. It's either that, or say that I mass produced many hundreds of thousands of defective tires. I do not believe that I have never seen a tire with a minimum pressure rating on it. That minimum would depend on the size of the tire and the load it carries.
But those punctures that I fixed on those Radial ATX tires were ridiculous. I dealt with it often enough that I actually remember the kind and tire size from over 24 years ago. Who else knows what kind of tire and size they had on a vehicle in the late 1990s?
Any subsequent tire that went on that vehicle was never a problem.
That customer knows where to find 24 carat solutions. 3 hours and not a bother. There's nothing worse on this planet than driving a problematic car. It just gets personal the longer it persists. The best of 2024 on this project.
Had that same issue. Replaced hubs and it was fixed. I had to pull the cluster and desolder that buzzer..
Love to watch you chase things down!!! Waiting for part 2...
IIRC RSC stands for "Roll Stability Control." That Mountaineer is based on the 4th generation Ford Explorer. That ended production in 2010 after which Ford placed the Explorer on the D3/D4 chassis. This generation was rear-wheel drive based. Then they switched it to front-wheel drive based. Then they switched it back to rear-wheel drive based on the CT6? platform. While it was close it wasn't the last Mercury vehicle produced; that distinction goes to the 'ol Marquis on January 4, 2011. I've heard of the high speed CAN bus, the medium speed, and the low speed. I wonder which one is the problem. Can't wait for part 2. GREAT VIDEO!
Just when you thought you were close, the car says, nope. Keep going buddy. lol. I'm real interested to see what's causing that poor connection issue.
Yeah, it seemed like it had to be so close to the module in the interior, but I'll bet that climbing in/out of the car rocked it enough to affect the under hood stuff.
Great troubleshooting so far Ivan! I don’t know how the owner could drive that car with the crazy noise!
North East Salt and electrical Co not mix well. Especially with green crusties!! Terminal fretting as well. Nice job on checking for ohms and stuff. Good lesson to learn!!
Happy New Year Ivan!!!!
Time for a road trip to North Carolina we need a guest appearance by Dr. IdentiFazio!!!
Alphonzo....I mean Defazio. Keith Defazio.
An old Ford with an electrical issue? I can't believe it. I'd never have expected that.
99% of electrical problems are mechanical problems
All of my electrical problems have been bad grounds haha
That's an underrated comment.
You're on the right track, but you'll find out the whole story in Part 2. 😉
99% of both mechanical and electrical problems are physics problems
@@aidanh4550that would technically fit the description, a ground connection. Is a physical/mechanical connection to the vehicle lol
Good diagnostic, Ivan! From the last screen on the video, I guess there is more to it. Curious about Part 2.
Ivan you are very close to 200k subscribers!! Your followers need to push that number over the top!~ You deserve it! Thanks buddy for all the great learnin',.....
It's crazy to me that it's still that low. Granted, I've never seen youtube show me one of his videos in the recommended; I only found this channel through 'word of mouth" and other mechanics talking about it, so I physically looked it up; so I wonder why UA-cam is not promoting it at all? strange
@@calhollimaybe because of the little Trump flag hanging in my garage? 🤔😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yeah, I had figured that was probably the case a long time ago.🙃
@@calholli Now that you mention it I've had the same thing happen. The only way I know anything about Ivan is I saw him on Eric O's channel and started to watch him that way. I physically have to type in "Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics" to get to his videos.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics While I could comment about that I won't because your channel is about auto diagnostics; not politics.
To infinity and beyond!
I was thinking the same when he said "to infinity"
Ode to Buzz
There is no beyond
@@calholli True, but it is funny to hear it being said!😁
I actually just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer today with the same warning. I’m glad I came across this video. What should I go after first?
Congratulations on the BIG 200K mark Ivan.
This fella has patience. No way I could deal with that noise for 3 hours !
You are presenting this case very clearly
I've never had brake or abs issues on any of my Panthers. Even the ones from the early 90s still work. The pedal on my 95 Town Car is hard as can be and it stops right away with new S.U.R&R EZ BEND brake lines and the flare nuts with the 7/16" and 9/16" heads for 3/16 and 1/4 brake line although this car only uses 3/16 brake line.
once i had a pinched wire from the factory under my gear shifter and it stopped the shifter from working. i had to use the bypass to shift
Congratulations on 200,000 subscribers!!
thank you:
"research is 80%..."
I wonder if the original ABS module was actually bad or not?
I am sure you have solved this problem already. However, when you measured the CAN bus disconnected and got 135 ohms instead of the specified 120 ohms and then with it connected and got 64.5 ohms, this is a clue. A CAN bus must be terminated on both ends. If both ends were the same resistance, the specified 120 ohms, you would get 60 ohms with both ends connected. The parallel resistance of 135 ohms and 120 ohms is 63.5 ohms. If I was following correctly the 135 ohms was with the sensor module disconnected and 64.5 ohms with it connected has verified that the ABS module termination is out of spec and the sensor module is 120 ohms and in spec.
these ABS/STABILITY control systems can be a nightmare.. so many components.. even a bad wheel speed sensor can cause them to manfunction.,,. have been fighting the ABS/DSC system on my bmw z3 since I got it.. luckily my bmw doesnt sound like a garbage truck back up siren when it throws a code.. cracked solder joints in the DSC modules is common on the z3 beamers.. seized ABS pumps, yaw rate sensors out of calibration, and on and on.,
Ivan, finally 200K subs congrats you deserved it this channel should have way more subscribers and hope 2024 bring you more success and health thanks for sharing and what an amazing approach and thought process waiting for part two. cheeeers
I had a 95 F150 5spd manual and a 2002 F350 7.3L 6spd manual.. both trucks past 300k miles, and I never had any issues with either one; other than the usual starter/alternator/water pump/etc.. Otherwise they have been rock solid reliable and start every time. I did have an issue where the solenoid for the glow plugs physically blew apart, so it was a little harder to start in the cold; but after I seen it and swapped in another $10 solenoid, it starts very easy on the coldest days now, again. Same with my 2002 Acura MDX. I've had good luck with my vehicles.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Ford has forgotten more about making bulletproof cars than most manufacturers have ever learned, having said that this car is old enough to need some attention, not the end of the world just annoying
When chasing quickly changing values like an intermittent, set the DVM to HOLD mode so it doesn't keep auto ranging.
Huh. I thought after it suddenly went open circuit without even opening the hood that there'd be green crusties in one of the intermediate connectors and no parts required. Can't wait for part 2 now.
You'll definitely want to watch, part 2. Long story short, I'm the owner of this Mountaineer now. It was my mothers, whom passed away in October of 2022. She had this problem with the Mountaineer while she was still with us. She and her boyfriend of 40+ years, tried to have a mechanic solve the problem, but never could pinpoint what the problem was. I'm always up for a challenge, so I told my siblings that I would take it and see if I could fix it, to possibly sell it, or maybe, just keep it in the family. I diagnosed it to a certain point, but then it kept playing games with me and knew I had to take it to Ivan to get to the bottom of it ,and I hope it helps anybody else that might have one of these vehicles, with this issue.
@kfessler1
Well you took it to the right guy to resolve the issue + you have recorded documentation of work done.
@@drunkingsailor2359 Indeed! If it wasn't for Ivan, I'd most likely still be chasing my tail! 😅
@@kfessler1 If it was me, I'd be pulling the fuse for the dinger (the radio?) until it got fixed. It would drive me nuts.
@@russellhltn1396 Unfortunately, my mother was the one that had to endure it, which she did for years. I, on the other hand, only had to deal with it for a few days. 👍 And the worst, was driving it up to Ivan's place. 2.5 hours of mayhem!😂
Thankfully its not rodent damage ! Mice would love all that exposed wiring !
Thanks Ivan!
Do we think the pins on the ABS connector have been damaged by using wrong test probes and they have been opened up? That why Ivan recons it gets worse, and that connector isnt the only fault?
Ivan has balls of steel saying, “it’s only four wires so the diagnosis should be pretty straightforward,” within earshot of the offending machine. Said machine said, “hold my beer and watch this.”
Congratulations on making *200,000* subscribers!!!
Interesting, I just had the ABS module on my 09 Fi50 repaired, fortunately that was simple. Remove it, send it off, replace it.
I thought for certain DeoxIT was going to enter the scene... maybe part 2 😊
Oh, it's coming. :)
You can't just leave those green crusties like that
That is some serious green.
@@lvsqcsl Yeah, I wonder if the windshield is leaking or something. Maybe the rubber on the door
The connector wiggle change also could be internal solder joints. Inspect, clean, redo wiggle connector test.
"This diagnosis should be pretty straight forward."🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Good thing I was watching from the can cause I lost my 💩
Crazy Abs Ivan, you could be Dealing with bad pinouts
Saw a meme, or was it here,"Ford, turning mechanics into alcoholics for 103 yrs"
😂
03:54 😮ohh no. Uttered the dreaded words
👍🐸 green crust and corrosion inflicting annoyance as usual 🎓😁
Cracked solder joint inside?
MATE WE NEED ABOUT 60.000 THOUSANDS OF YOU IN THE UK ..AND PROBABLY 260000 THOUSAND IN EUROPE
Kevin smart guy to. Ask but why didn't he disconnect the damn buzzer?
That would have been the "easy" fix, but I love a challenge and wanted to get down to the real issue. Plus, the buzzer is soldered into the instrument cluster, so I really didn't want to go to that point. You'll definitely want to watch part 2! And thanks for the compliment!
@@kfessler1 I would've put tape over/around the buzzer so that it perhaps would've muted it a bit.🙃
Wow great Ivan you are at 200k subs
So its getting close to the abs module, a single cruddy pin on the abs module connector or the harness plug.
Not forgetting the wire insulation rubbed off, lovely damp and green lol.
Acid battery near wiring, what a silly idea.
Don't they name things with confusing names.
Call a fork a fork, not a clastication booble flange lol.
Did i hear someone chuckling in the background at 13:51?
can you make a video where you get rid of all door dinging and seatbelt bell and other unnecessary sounds
On fords it's a tedious procedure. You have to buckle and unbuckle each front seatbelt 10 or more times within a set amount of time. I remember doing this on my service truck.
@@topher8634or just disable the chime?
@@mikeburdi3464 on modern vehicles the chime is integrated into the audio system and door speakers. On some anyway. I installed an aftermarket radio on a 2004 grand am once and had to buy a chime kit to turn off the "service vehicle soon" light.
I would pull that anointing box out if it were mine .
That noise is just ridiculous.
Thats just stupid
My Ford's ABS worked only for about a year the dealership was never able to fix it under warranty It only had 45,000 km on it I'll never buy Ford again their cars are junk
@@user-ch5yv5zv8s Money pits yes
Yes indeed Ford is junk. FORD...FAILURE OF RESEARCH &DEVELOPMENT
@@user-ch5yv5zv8s Yes they are I agree
Love. That. Wow wow
It sounds way more annoying in 2011 Explorer. Disconnected the speaker. Light still on. Don't feel like recaliberating RCS and ABS crap!
Frantically searching for part 2 🏃♂️
Now you know how annoying it is for British people watching American cars being fixed with the constant gongs and chimes they make when you are starting them up 🤣🤣
You can turn them off with the scantool.. it's in the options inside the body module, usually. You can turn off the auto locking doors and the auto window roll down.. the door dinger.. and even the seat belt warning buzzer, etc. It's all in the scan tool; there are plenty of good one's to choose from now.
@@calholliI don't think that scan tools can turn off "safety chimes"... That's what wire cutters and paper clips are for 😜
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I don't know if it is possible to disable what you are talking about, however, I have disabled seatbelt man from "ding, ding" when the vehicle is underway. You must read all this crap in the owner's manual about the dangers of disabling before you can do it, though.
Engineered to fail by being in a really bad environment. No protection, lots of vibration, small wires. Access from the bottom or side through wheel well might be better.
On to part 2.
Ford sometimes uses short pigtails to adapt to a new module or something like that
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical issue
I'm getting an itchy trigger finger that noise 😂
merry christmas !
👍
Multi part vids = multiple issues! To be continu(ed)ous!
Gotta love a Mountaineer I think in my time, I've now owned 9 explorers. 2 currently in my possession and most reliable vehicles ever... over 400000 miles on these two alone
All the 4.0L ones I've seen have been junked well before 200k miles due to transmission, timing chain, and head gasket problems lol 😅
Exploder
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsI had a 2004 ranger with the 4.0 SOHC and 5R55E drivetrain. Trans blew up at 170k. Only reason it made it that far was I installed a shift kit and changed the fluid every 20k.
@@matth5309 My sister had to put an $1800 reman trans in hers... Then a year later it was wrecked and totaled. smh.. All that money and time I helped them put it in-- wasted
You just need to maintain them. Preventive maintenance.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Wow that's literally the last of it's kind, well that isn't wearing a Ford or Lincoln badge. R.I.P. Mercury Jan, 2011.
Ford loves their communication lines in terrible locations. Lmao
Ford and their annoying sounds, thank god for forscan!
Sorry I meant just for the drive
That will drive a person nuts I had a Ford pinto station wagon the seat belt buzzard going off I had the belt on as soon you started to drive the buzzer go off you come to a stop the buzzard stop buzzing you take off the sound come back on
Okay 😮
Why such a constant warning for ABS. ABS wasn't even standard at one point
Disconnect the speaker. My solution for years.
I have the same vehicle in my gerage with the case warning has a bad wheel bearing . Hopefully that's the problem.
I only have a wheel speed sensor code .
Sorry, couldn’t continue to watch through to the end. Your presentation would be so much better if the visual image wasn’t bouncing all over the place. Put a couple GoPros on tripods and your story telling will be significantly better.
Ford has a better Idea 💡
Ford is the first problem (electrical gremlins) the second is the corrosion, this is why living in the rust-belt like I do where we use excessive salt and calcium chloride brine on the roads, I have my cars sprayed annually with a creeping high zinc oil type corrosion preventing rust proofing compound from Krown. NEVER EVER had any green crusties on electrical connectors or wires and I keep my cars until the wheels fall off at 15-20 years later. Mice also don't like the taste of this being sprayed all over the place under the hood and inside body / rocker panels so they won't chew the wires either.
Again. 1st like. OMG
To infinity and beyond!