MORE PROBLEMS! First Ride On The 1989 Kawasaki Kx125 Dirt Bike
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2021
- I take the first ride on my 1989 Kawasaki Kx125 since replacing the power valves. I have nothing but problems with tuning this bike. #Kawasaki, #Kx125, #1989,
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Finally back to riding this 1989 kx125!
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FIX THE PIPE it could be the dents are in bad spots for a two-stroke power band 15:31, try and run with someone squezing your neck. Put stoppers in both ends but one with a hole so air compressor can pressurize like blowing up a ballon and use a Rose bud torch to heat dented area and it will pop out
I agree with fixing pipe
Can i buy that kx
Let me buy it
Τhe bike is not lean but rich just lettin you know also the pipe is a big role for the power band
I love watching the videos, I'm hooked on these, I love these 80's motocrossers, I had a few of em ,,,81 Yamaha yz80,,, 87 Honda cr125, and an 81 Honda cr 450 Elsinore, , these video's are addictive
Carb parts do wear out. Brass gets oblong and needles end up dull on the end and don't close up all the way. It almost sounds like an air leak. Repacking the silencer and giving it some back pressure might also help it.
I think raising the clip on the needle is just compensating for other carb issues. I’d rebuild the car before making additional modifications. I’d also put a decent silencer on it as well.
Joe you're a smart guy and you can figure it out, from a fellow engineer, we are taught to break big, complex problems down into small ones, and solve them one at a time.
1. repack pipe 2. rebuild and rejet carb 3. Enjoy your bike
I genuinely look forward to your videos every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday. Nice work man.
Great job bringing it back around! Love old 2strokes.
Kawasaki & Yamaha are my fave dirtbikes / ATVs. Served me well for decades! Buy em new an maintain / service well an no issues.
Your middle power valve is the wrong way mate. I had one they had to all open at once. The middle is out of wack.
I thought that initially but when I considered it further I would have hoped Kawasaki made it only go in one way according to the rack that operates it. May be wrong though
No they only go in one way you can’t put them in wrong
I came here to say this.
Said this in last video
@@steven-vn9ui bro the power valves all open up at once
Congratulations on 200k man. You earned it
What's up joe, keep grinding. You will get it where it needs to be.
Well diagnosed bro. Awesome episode. One of the best👍
1 New main jet and needle to be safe.
2 check reeds
3 repack silencer
4 the expansion pipe is heavily dented and can have a huge impact on performance. Repair pressure kits are cheap enough and handy to have if working with old bikes
And a new set or bars this bugs the shit out of me
I don't know a lot about bikes I have had the same 86 cr500 for a long time if you have a dented pipe dose it affect the bike and how big dose the dente have to be for it to affect it
Waching your videos all the way from estonia😄
But for real man.. Keep up the hard work!
Thats a nice bike. The one side rad, rear disk, fork boots, kawasaki on the seat, she is an awesome piece. I hope you get it running perfect.
Keep grinding away at it buddy, you'll get it. I just wish I was closer so I could buy that beauty from you.
Excellent job troubleshooting it. I have to do the same thing all the time. Keep trying different things until it works.
Wow great tip from the forum on the power valve stuck in the pipe.
BIG UP 2VINTAGE KEEP UP THE WORK BROTHER
I absolutely love watching your videos. All the way from the uk.👌
Great video! Defo carb issue I’d say get it rebuilt I bet it will be spot on. I had a kx that was similar
glad i started watching with your newer videos lol these ones give me anxiety lmao
If you ride a lot and use sticky oil. You will need to clean the gears in the power valves every year. The power valves are prone to build up. I have a 1989 KX125 with a big bore and hot rod kit. My power valve was milled down to clear the new sleeve. I have aftermarket Boysen reed valves plus a FMF REV pipe and Answer SA Pro spark silencer. Stock jetting. The needle was moved one clip leaner. Use a fuel filter you will be happier. I use Bell Ray MC-1 mixed at 50:1, one bottle of oil to five gallons. The engine rebuild was the best thing I ever did. The power gain was very noticeable. I have had mine since it was new and it still rips it. After the rebuild I warmed the bike up for a few minutes dumped the clutch to burn out and wheelie over. Thus ripping the rear fender off. A total rookie move lol.
have a kx100 and had a couple kx85s always had carb issues pretty much everytime i go ride em get a rebuild kit for the carb and a couple mains bigger and smaller and just play with em, got faith you will figure it out! good luck
With that carburetor upside down the top of the float should be level across and I agree with Ryan down below that somebody could have drilled out that jet main
i feel like when you hit the gas it should almost flood out for the first split second and then take off without any braking up . id rather foul plugs then run lean in my opinion .
I’d still rather not foul plugs at all lol
Yes DO NOT run any machines lean. A fouled plug here an there is par for the course esp with 2 - strokes.
@@tpghl5225 then ride newer 4-strokes like I do ! Best way to go. #Yamaha #KTM
@@Davido50 I have a 2004 rm250 with a lectron and never foul plugs but was just saying I’d rather not foul any at all by not purposely running too rich. I also have a 2015 rmz450. Obviously plugs don’t last forever either way 2 stroke or 4
Well just when I thought I had the whole “lean vs rich” thing all figured out I decided to watch this video and now I am back to square one! 😅
I'm thinking those power valves are definitely installed incorrectly. The power valve is designed to allow the bike to make power through all the different throttle ranges. It's not revving out man. It's gotta be the power valves.
Or the Reed valve is chipped.
That's what i think
Just get a new carb because they wear out because 1989 was a long time ago but you know what your doing I love watching your channel keep them coming respect from England
I had the 88 kx-125, raced it with no problems. Of course there was no ethynol in the fuel back then, so it ran crisp and I never had to jet or worry about anything. Jetting was stock at sea level. 8 on the sparky, 40:1 on da fuel mix, and a fresh filter and the kips was working perfectly. I bet 90% of running issues is that crap fuel they sell us..
Love all your videos
Sounds great, enjoy, she'll run a long time. Great job.
With that many bikes you must have a welder. Those welder kits must really be a blast!
The main was rich. Shutting Off of the fuel showed that. But those 125 engines sound lean up top when they are pretty much right. That's when the oil mix ratio comes into play.
Big fan from Colorado
It Thymes
@2vintage I recently just bought my dads old 87 kx125 he bought for 600 when he was 13, I’m 17 and bought it for 600 running. Doing minimal research learning a bit about the bike, I found through thumper talk forms of old mx racers saying they fouled plugs from running 40:1. Even 36:1. Stock Manuel recommends 32:1.
Nice machine! That´s a keeper for sure
The thing with factory carb settings is that could be set at the altitude of the factory the bike was built in. I'd play around with the mixtures. it sounds like it's rich popping 🤷🏻♂️ or the throttle needle is set too high? The fact it revs higher when your turn the feed off suggests it's then running gradually leaner and then dies when you run out 👀
Edit: just got to the bit where you discovered the needle height 😂👌
Should be able to smell if it's running lean or rich too as well as how fast the revs drop when you blip it in neutral ✌️
Doesn't sound lean to me now the needle position is sorted. It sounds exactly like the first one I ever rode. Even the gearing sounds the same barely sounds like it changes gear 😂😂👌
I just went through similar tuning issue with my 1989 yz250 project. Just got done rebuilding top end and threw vforce 3’s in it. Had to move needle clip to lean out. My suggestion would be to keep in same position, run a richer ratio, like 32:1.
All i run is 32:1 in a Suzuki jr 80
I made the mistake of changing ratio with my bike trying to solve a plug fouling issue. Went as lean 40:1 and burnt the piston up. That why I had to get new piston. So I stuck to 32:1 and worked on jetting.
Sounds just like my Husky before I kitted the carb. It runs incredibly well now.
Its normally floatl height when it goes well with petrol turned off
You kitted it 🤣 you can tell a novice who doesn't know Jack a mile away.
@@daffyduck9901 That's of it mean everyone's gotta start somewhere
@@andrewnewton23 😭
@@daffyduck9901 Daffy duck You clip
You inspire me to just be like you
Got same kits here, they work well.
couple things
do you have a stock style air cleaner in the box?
have you inspected the main jet for a small missing O-ring? the reason i ask is because i had a 73 Suzuki TS185 2stroke, that just would rev out like it should under a load (when riding it), i had that damn carb apart a hundred times and messed with the needle setting and could improve it a little but not all the way. the last time i had the carb all apart studying it, i noticed a notch on the main jet, looked like there should be an oring on it, i got the oring kit out and found the size that most closely matched. sure enough that fixed my issue, bike revved out and ran great. fast too. was ab old stock mikuni carb
i believe from the factory the needle clip should be in the middle notch of the needle, though this probably depends on elevation, as air density will effect tuning.
your leaky carb im sure is another issue,
i dig the bike though man
You should get a spark plug cleaner. Work great! I know plugs are cheap. But for diagnosing it’s a huge help
love your videos im from london in uk.u are so lucky u have them bikes
Could be gunk on the stator side messing with spark, could be a leak in the reeds or lastly at the worst the crank seals could be staring to go causing a rich rich condition.
But my gut really tells me that your powervalves could be opening way too soon causing it to run reallly rich.
This was the exact thing that happened to me when i backed off my powervalve tensioner(adjustment) way too much, itd ifle okay and decent at low rpm but when 1/4 throttle or just barley above itd give the feeling of my plug starting to foul. Turned the valves clockwise a turn and it solved the issue completely. Honestly.
Just went and checked..jd jetting has everything you need for the carb..buy their rebuild kit, jet block kit, and jet kit and it’ll be golden
Repack your silencer. It will run better, not saying it’ll solve the problem but fresh packing really helps make them run a lot better and sound healthier. It’s too rich somewhere, still sounds off or gargley. I suggest a carb rebuild and buy a few main jets and pilot jets (a few bigger and smaller than stock sizes). Check the reeds for damage
Good work brotha
🤟🏻🔥🤟🏻 you’ll get it fixed 💯
I had a lot of these kx growing up
HI Joe I had Jawa 90cc which had the same problems just when you wanted the power it turned out to be the HT COIL
I was 16 when i got my first kx 125....nice!
It gets better with gas off because it’s leaning out. Good indicator of it being too rich.
I’m willing to bet it’s your jet block leaking beneath your carburetor slide I had this happen on a Honda 250r PJ carb. Same exact issues you were having I spent hours trying to diagnose the problem when I finally took apart the security screws to remove the jet block there is a paper gasket under there that is not replaceable so I went with a PWK carb fixed my issue
K&L Supply makes great carb rebuild kits. They are made in Japan.
And they like the tail pipe nice packed tight for good back pressure
It's running rich forsure. Wayyy to rich. Even runs better with the gas off meaning its leaning it out and making it run better
hi joe! gad you got that thing runnin.
Ew Suzuki?
What the hell is gad? And runnin? Do you mean Glad and running? Dumb ass
@@covidcrazy694 hahahaha he made funny spelling error time to shame
@@covidcrazy694 u like 5 or something?
@@covidcrazy694 what are you so mad for bro
Did you check to make sure the emulsion tube isn’t worn out on the inside. Take the needle off of the slide and drop it inside the tube. If it goes all the way down, it needs to be replaced along with the needle itself.
It's a keihin pwk carburetor they don't have replaceable needle Jets you have to replace what's called the stick mixer and you have to have a special bit in order to remove it and they are quite expensive to replace they don't wear out like the mikuni carburetors do or the older keihin carburetors where the needle jet is replaceable
after you said it is running too lean, look at exhaust in video looks right for that engine. but carb leak and needle issue shoud take care of it
Awesome video
My rm did the same thing couldn’t figure it out and slapped a new carb and it ran perfect
100% agree with Atombomb the top speed of a race MX bike is not a valid test. Throttle position plays a big part (closed to 1/4 is pilot jet, 1/4 to 1/2 is needle and 3/4 to full is main) Have you done these tests one at a time? Have you thought about electronics? A bad stator can act like carb issues?
Rebuild the carb, jet it correctly, repack the muffler…it’s a 2 stroke those are a lot more finicky on jetting and atmosphere changes..buy a bunch of spark plugs and do plug chops until you get it right
It sounds like the main jet is too rich I would go down a size they don’t always come get it right from the factory. If that doesn’t work I would check to see if your power Valves are in correctly. Also packing the silencer might help you’ll never be able to get it perfectly until that’s done
Yall get it rite dont let it get you down
Meant to say with the clip on 2nd position, it sounded pretty close so by time you put the clip in the.midfle slot I believe will be spot on as far as the needle circuit is concerned...I know kx125s are.notorious about getting jetted extremely rich from factory as a fail safemechamism so newfound owners break it in nice and rich a lubricated, unbenounced to them cuz a btand new bike even if jetted rich will sound sooo crisp anyway and smoke will dissipate very fast as the rings warm up and seal around.bote.much sooner and revs get crisp right after starting bike so that's my 2 cents!!!!!
I know it's expensive but I run vp t2 in my bike cuz before I would mix my fuel and my bike would bog and I knew nothing was wrong with the bike or carb when I made the change it cleared up and runs 100%
Saludoa desde argentina bro🇦🇷
Did you replace the gasket under that metering block ? Those cause you to chase your tail trying to figure out jetting issues.
if its smoking it aint lean. The problem with 125s is they are owned by kids who bodge things. their idea of rejetting is drilling out jets so your stock jets could be oversized. i would run stock jets or up it a size with boyson reeds. but either way i would fit new jets. run a richer mix if you are concerned about the current jets. you usually check the needle valve for suppleness and i would change that also
And with your clip on the second wrong does sound a tadling but by the time you put it in the third position which may be something you did I just haven't watched a head yet but that should be the ultimate crisp zone for that bike I know I'm here in Florida and with the humidity and the heat my yz250 requires me to put the clip all the way into lenus position and it can still get a little bit sharpened up but that's just Florida heat also make sure within the boundaries but you may just have it because you've narrowed everything else down so making me think it's probably an ignition issue so I'm going to bet on that for now....
Hey man..new to your page. I have a '22 KX112 with 13.5 hours on it. A local shop quoted me $800+ for a top end rebuild..not sure if that is exorbitant or not. Guessing a compression test to see what it still holds would be good.
Some useless information for you :P
When I was a kid I upgraded to a KX, Dad wanted to see how quick the new Kawasaki was.
KX80 G1 1986 (brand new), we clocked at 71mph / 114kph
YZ80 K 1983 (3 years old), clocked 59mph / 95kph
At about 10 mins into the video you mention that the engine revs up as the fuel runs out. This suggests to me that it was over-rich but you then said you were going to increase the float height..... Given how many engines you work with it would be worth making a simple air/fuel monitor from a battery, a voltmeter and a used car lambda sensor. Also, the main jet may say it is the correct size but some joker might have drilled it out a bit.
You have a good point it's worth a look
Super vidéo good kx 💚💚💚
I'm probably not correct but I thought when I watched you installing the new power valves that the center exhaust port valve section was down when you actuated the valves....from my limited time in messing with power valves they are supposed to by up out of the way once actuated....any chance the center part is installed wrong?
I was actually just going to make that comment but then you I read through the comments and you beat me to it and you are absolutely 100% correct I noticed that too when he put the power valve back together the centerpiece is open when the power valve is closed and it tips down when it's open which is opposite to what it's supposed to be the whole point of a power valve is to make the exhaust Port smaller on lower revs which makes the motor think that it has a shorter pipe on it then when you come up in RPMs it's like an automatic Port job it opens up the ports so it raises the port which would change your port at least two degrees if not more and opens the side auxiliary exhaust ports making the motor think it has a longer pipe on it giving it more power on top but the one thing people have an illusion that power valves give your bike more power that's not true what the power valves do is smooth out the power delivery so you don't have that light switch power band I have a 1982 CR250 Elsinore and an 88 CR250 and they both roughly have the same power but the 88 delivers that power so much smoother and giving you some more torque down low
Joe,
Pay attention to these comments.
@@TheAwmartin seems he only listens to the people that know nothing and the people that are actually giving them the correct information to fix it he ignores I'm a licensed technician and do this stuff every single day just fix the Banshee today that would not idle on one cylinder the customer change spark plugs spark plug wires boots coils everything else brought it to me ended up being the idle air screw was screwed all the way in when it's supposed to be a turn and a half out adjusted that and the bike was fixed three other people looked at the bike before I did and never caught that sometimes you need to listen to people that know more than you do I've learned that in the past
Hey man I have a question. I bought a 1987 kx125 not too long ago and I just needed to know where do you find the parts for these things its nearly impossible for me I have to try and luck out on ebay sometimes and seriously HOPE they fit lol... Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
Yesss bro 😎😎
Don't forget to replace the Reed valve . Probably has a crack . I think the needle is mainly for midrange , the main jet is the culprit . You need a size smaller it sounds like . You can't adjust the whole range with just the needle .
Hey, did you re-intall the power valves as they came out or by the book? I am just considering if you replaced like for like they might have been wrong when you got the bike from the previous owner? (I'm only ten minutes into the video though so ignore if this is not relevant). One more though popped into my head near the end - if the needle/jet is worn you are compensating by dropping the needle down(lifting the clip). I would recommend a carb kit or known good 2nd hand carb. Good luck, love an old Kwaka
I watched several videos of other guys installing them and I went off of that.
On both of my RM's the needle position was at the richest mixed 32:1 and damn it still felt really lean ! Never ever even fouled a spark plug and they where always coffee light brown !
That's not lean that's perfect
@@connorssmallengines6663 I know ! Boy do I ever miss those bikes !
I miss living in Wisconsin sometimes..
I own the 88 raced it and was pretty good
When you are saying that it sounds lean, that is HOW an old 125 should sound when it gets up on Pipe. Also old Carb parts wear out. Just do a complete Carb rebuild, don't be shy to spend that Carb rebuild money. The plug looks lean, but it surely doesn't sound lean in the revs, it just sounds like a 125 (Post Vintage 125). And if you think jetting that 1989 KX125 is difficult, try jetting a 1991 or 1992 Kawasaki KX125, even the Magazine's gave up and just threw 1990 Kawasaki KX125 Carbs on their 1991 KX125 and 1992 KX125 test bikes, Lol. When the Magazine's do that, the Carbs are bad. I am putting a Lectron on my 1991 KX125 project.
You might want to check the fuel filters you are using. I had a bike that was running out of fuel because the inline filter was obstructing the flow!
The reason it leans out more is because it's running out of gas. Try adjusting your mixture screws
Very nice.sounds nice..b safe
Peace
Sure. You drill a hole on the opposite side of the dent in the pipe. Insert a metal rod of some kind. Heat the area and tap it out. Never tried filling one with water, plugging the ends with rubber stoppers and dropping it in the deep freeze to expand. A simple spot weld on the inside of the pipe covers the hole.
from what i see at about 10mins into the vid your float is set wrong ..i've worked on a pile of small engines used to help out on race snowmobiles that went to world series ..i just helped out there is lots i don't know ...but anyway i've never ran into a carb that did not have a level float setting ..that's why its dripping out of the and you have to drop needle ..sorry if i sound like an armchair expert but thats my 2 cents ...love your channel and love all your bikes
Also check for vacuum leaks
Running rich not lean! Maybe your smashed pipe is affecting on jetting or the carburetor is just worn out. I would try run it with another carburetor if possible
I had one of those old models and that happens to me all the time you need to take the carb o and blow it and clean it
Yo dude, you should start a discord for the channel. Would be a cool place to share and connect.
Reeds okay? Sealing well? It will act rich is reeds are not working properly
Reeds are good
Float height? Or leaky needle and seat...
Possibly leaky needle and seat
Could it be air leak at crank seal fly wheel side maybe?
I was thinking the same thing. Must be pulling air from some where.
Barr is not straight of i'm seeing it wrong
But good job bro
Have you inspected the reeds?