I just put on the VRSF 2" outlets a month ago and if I knew how difficult it would be to get the back V-band on I definitely would have gone with 1.5". Also, if you're driving a 535xi like me, there's a bit more to taking the fan shroud of. It's all connected with the oil cooler (takes up the same area as the radiator, but it's thinner) and you have to disconnect the radiator line where it goes into the bottom of the block to reach the front V-band if you can't reach it from the top. It's possible I could have done it from the top if I had a little more clearance for my hands with a 1.5" setup. Thanks for another great video! I would probably still be mostly stock if I never found your walkthroughs.
I have the silicone outlets for my car, and I really like the increased flow that they give, however I had the issue with them melting. Instead of going to aluminum outlets I'm using a pair of turbo blankets that will cover the manifolds as well and hopefully prevent this from happening again. Just posting to show another option for potential buyers.
I also have silicone outlets still but to try and remedy the problem of them melting I have installed a manifold heatshield by RB and wrapped The outlet where it’s closest. Just thought I would put another solution out there for people still wanting to go with silicone outlets
Same thing..they sent me a second pair for free..still melted no matter what I tried. When VRSF. Bigger and the flow is great... VTT ... No. Its the same as stock which is why most of us in the N54 community won't buy them.
I tried running your exact setup but I have a dct. I can’t use the long inlets had to go relocated. But also those line could benefit from being top or side mounted to the oil filter housing
I have the VRSF 2” outlets with the silicone coupler. I wrapped the silicone coupler in DI gold tape, as well as the engine mount directly below it. So, far so good.
Hey I recommend you changing those two plastic boost lines that with single straight silicone lines like your other ones. I was diagnosing my wastegate rattle and they were a part of my issue, despite never buying eBay boost solenoids ever again xD
I’ve had the little rubber coupler blow on me before. Something that I recommend is trying to use the heat shield that comes with the stock outlets on the new ones.
I've had the rubber hose coupler pushed off of the rear outlet after a dig one day. The issue is fitment for that rubber hose coupler is almost too short. I had to buy another hose of the same size, just a bit longer for the the clamps to fit comfortably over the lips of the outlets.
@@edwardwerley8831 I'm pretty sure I found one off eBay. It's been a while so I'm not positive. I would measure the length of the original and add a couple of inches and just google the rubber hose size
@@keithhelvey7659 thank u sir. I know there was a UA-cam video that someone provided a link to a longer hose that was also upgrade in temp rating. Just cannot find it now.
You need to do a video on how to refurbish the OEM calipers with new seals & potentially have them sand blasted & powder coated with a high gloss clear coat....
Did you do a follow up video or have a recommendation where to get an upgraded and longer silicone hose that connects the rear to front pieces? Thank you.
Another great video. I did this upgrade about a year ago, it is a pain in the ass to do. I never understood why those silicone outlets were even allowed to sell. They all eventually start melting.
I have the VRSF aluminum outlets and stock location inlets.. is there a reason why you didn’t use VRSF considering you used their inlets? Love your videos and again my favorite UA-cam channel! Thanks 🙏🏻
This was a real pain in the ass to replace mine was torn I also had the silicon version .Now I have the metal vargas one. I love mine no more having to worry about it ripping apart . I spent the whole day putting this in fuck this install !
@@jonathandenenno305i Just replaced it couple weeks ago. I had to take out the canisters, coolant tank moved out the way, I removed the boost solenoids with the rack it’s mounted to. After that I was able to remove them. Took me a couple hours and some patience and a bowl of chronic lol I also went ahead and replaced the o rings on the outlets.
Excellent video, im checking if VTT have the RHD outlets. Are these still connected to the DAW 775 turbos and VSRF intercooler (2.5inch connection)? how are the DAWs holding up and how many miles put on it so far?
Thanks I have a video when my car was auto making 540 whp and the tune has been turned up since then and I converted to manual so I'm expecting at least 550. I plan on going to a dyno again soon.
I just finished doing that job. I don't notice any power increase in the low RPMs and mid range and I think my boost pressure has dropped from 12 pounds to9 pounds. This could probably be due to less velocity ! I don't drive my car in the upper RPM range very often so I think I made a mistake and should've left it alone
I was always like.... silicone?? There? You know there's hot iron manifolds right next to them, right? So, ya, I never installed new silicone outlets cuz, well, pretty much anything burns or melts over 800F. I am probably gonna install a low mounted single Precision Gen2 6266 with it's own custom ceramic coated aluminum oulet pipe.
Hello 👋🏻 nice upload like always,off topic question any input why would the rad fans be on high speed all the time as soon as you start the engine?07 335i car doesn’t overheat or anything,maybe water pump going bad 🤷🏻♂️bad temp sensor 🤷🏻♂️any input would be appreciated thanks
The car could be going straight into limp mode also. The car would trigger the fans on full in limp mode. Trouble codes would be a good place to start. Do you have access to MHD?
@@VehicularDIY OK that makes sense I’m in the process of changing the HPFP its on limp mode now,I’m just waiting on the HPFP to arrive trouble code is 2fbc
Late to the party. He's running DAW 775's right now. I think they stopped selling them, there is a lot of tcontroversy with the owner of the company. Good thread on e90 post all about it. Your e better off running Pure 600's or RB Turbos
Do u know why BMW put those pinch points on the factory outlets?? Theres plenty of clearance down there so I cant seem to think of any logical reasons...
@@VehicularDIY oohh yeah! That actually makes a LOT of sense now lol thanks man.. I'm glad that ur still showing the n54 love even tho u have such a SEXY b58 right next to it lol
Well worth doing mate, I done mine by myself and it’s not that hard to be honest, would of been easier with 2 of ya, don’t forget to lube up the rear inlet haha
@@micraw714 tht will make it easier mate, hardest part is cutting the rear outlet out from underneath, I’ve got VRSF inlets on mine with rb turbos n the turbo noise now is on point lol
@@br4d101 nice! I would imagine it sounds killer 😁 I've been contemplating doing my engine mounts as well so I'm thinking about doing all 3 at once so that with the subframe lowered I might have a bit more space.
Hey @Vehicular DIY is there a way you can scan my car 2007 335i sedan.I also live in Houston. I'm having a weird issue. When I step on the gas past 3k rpm limp mode message turns on and once i shut down the car and turn it back on message is gone and the runs fine until you step on it again past 3k rpm.
When's the last time you replaced your injectors? The first time mine went, that's really close to what I was experiencing. Does it shudder just a little before the CEL comes on? Also, does it seem to start up just a little rough when you first turn it on in the morning?
@@fire2k11 I just bought the car like 5days ago. and yes to the rough cold start. I did notice a vacuum hose that needs to be replaced which I will be doing on Saturday.
If I had to guess you might be getting a 30FF code for low boost. I'd recommend that you replace the vacuum lines to start and get a cable and download MHD. You can use it to scan codes without paying anything. If you're still getting stuck shoot me an email after that. My email is on my about section of the channel.
@@VehicularDIY Technically speaking this is still wrong. It is about the mass flow to your manifold. From the Turbo Outlet to your Manifold there are other possible restrictions. So it is rather a good question what happens widening the diameter than assuming having spool retarded. Most probably you won´t have spool issues rather increased wgdc due to less restrictions at the compressing side.
@@VehicularDIY Thinking about this longer. I guess you won´t be able to measure a difference. Neither of us knows where the biggest restriction for air flow is. Could be well the intake valves. It is a really interesting topic and it would be great if you would find data which shows advantages or disadvantages.
Another factor is the silicone outlets would likely swell up under boost, a lot of variables to consider but the way I see it is the stock outlets were barely a restriction even with a 1" opening so going 1.5" all the way is a pretty significate upgrade and you always want the smallest pipe that won't cause a restriction for air velocity. Otherwise all cars would come with a 4" exhaust if it made sense to go big.
@@VehicularDIY I can’t seem to find a wiring diagram on the OEM backup cam I want to go back and check all the wiring but I’m not the person that installed it so it can make it difficult. I send you pictures of the problem on Instagram DM.
They now make a RHD kit that fits past the steering shaft. Getting to the rear v-band clamp still sucks, definitely remove your downpipes. It's not fun.
I did this job after watching your video. I have a lift to make it easier. It was not an easy job but I got through it.
Seems worthwhile for just flow efficiency regardless of volume. Definitely more durable than silicone.
I just put on the VRSF 2" outlets a month ago and if I knew how difficult it would be to get the back V-band on I definitely would have gone with 1.5". Also, if you're driving a 535xi like me, there's a bit more to taking the fan shroud of. It's all connected with the oil cooler (takes up the same area as the radiator, but it's thinner) and you have to disconnect the radiator line where it goes into the bottom of the block to reach the front V-band if you can't reach it from the top. It's possible I could have done it from the top if I had a little more clearance for my hands with a 1.5" setup.
Thanks for another great video! I would probably still be mostly stock if I never found your walkthroughs.
Thanks, glad they help!
I have the silicone outlets for my car, and I really like the increased flow that they give, however I had the issue with them melting. Instead of going to aluminum outlets I'm using a pair of turbo blankets that will cover the manifolds as well and hopefully prevent this from happening again. Just posting to show another option for potential buyers.
I also have silicone outlets still but to try and remedy the problem of them melting I have installed a manifold heatshield by RB and wrapped The outlet where it’s closest. Just thought I would put another solution out there for people still wanting to go with silicone outlets
Same thing..they sent me a second pair for free..still melted no matter what I tried. When VRSF. Bigger and the flow is great... VTT ... No. Its the same as stock which is why most of us in the N54 community won't buy them.
How did this work for you I just wrapped mine and thinking on outlets to order since I melted my silicone ones
lol just bought theses from fcp my silicons outlets melted on me after 2 years thanks for the video now I can do it myself !
Same lasted about 2 years.
Just finished puttting it on with out dropping the downpipe took me 4 hours lolmy back is killing me lol
best part IMO is to hear it Run ! Dude
I tried running your exact setup but I have a dct. I can’t use the long inlets had to go relocated. But also those line could benefit from being top or side mounted to the oil filter housing
I have the VRSF 2” outlets with the silicone coupler. I wrapped the silicone coupler in DI gold tape, as well as the engine mount directly below it. So, far so good.
how they respond? any problem with "air velocity"?
Whats funny is i got my package for VTT aluminum outlets, 2 hours after i got the notification for this video
How did you like yours? Got mine a month ago but am waiting to do it with inlets and a list of other things
Wait till you try to install they and the won't fit
Hey I recommend you changing those two plastic boost lines that with single straight silicone lines like your other ones. I was diagnosing my wastegate rattle and they were a part of my issue, despite never buying eBay boost solenoids ever again xD
Thanks for the tip.
Dude lighting was fantastic!!!!
Great video! Just in time to install inlets and outlets on my stock turbos, you have all the content I need 👍🏽💯
I’ve had the little rubber coupler blow on me before. Something that I recommend is trying to use the heat shield that comes with the stock outlets on the new ones.
Good tip, thanks
I've had the rubber hose coupler pushed off of the rear outlet after a dig one day. The issue is fitment for that rubber hose coupler is almost too short. I had to buy another hose of the same size, just a bit longer for the the clamps to fit comfortably over the lips of the outlets.
@@keithhelvey7659 where did you get the hose from?
@@edwardwerley8831 I'm pretty sure I found one off eBay. It's been a while so I'm not positive. I would measure the length of the original and add a couple of inches and just google the rubber hose size
@@keithhelvey7659 thank u sir. I know there was a UA-cam video that someone provided a link to a longer hose that was also upgrade in temp rating. Just cannot find it now.
Wow, great stuff. Thanks for sharing! Dutch regards, Nico.
You need to do a video on how to refurbish the OEM calipers with new seals & potentially have them sand blasted & powder coated with a high gloss clear coat....
Did you do a follow up video or have a recommendation where to get an upgraded and longer silicone hose that connects the rear to front pieces? Thank you.
The VTT are nicely done but I ran into leaking issue. The problem is flange to flange they will not going to sit tight together.
Exactly mine won't fit the same way and they won't refund or reshaping VTT is the worst of all the n44 companies
Another great video. I did this upgrade about a year ago, it is a pain in the ass to do. I never understood why those silicone outlets were even allowed to sell. They all eventually start melting.
Thanks, yeah I guess one vendor came to market first and others followed suite.
Great video as usual!!
Great content on your channel.
Do you know if there is any difference in this job for an AWD or it's the same as for an RWD
Hi I bought x5 2007 3.d I love him repair is costing a lot then decided to repair myself because watching doctor BMW .I hope I will finish soob
Hi Great Video tell me where did you buy your Husky mini Ratchet ?? Thank You
I have the VRSF aluminum outlets and stock location inlets.. is there a reason why you didn’t use VRSF considering you used their inlets? Love your videos and again my favorite UA-cam channel! Thanks 🙏🏻
What to i do i use for the new outlet to the intercooler???
This was a real pain in the ass to replace mine was torn I also had the silicon version .Now I have the metal vargas one. I love mine no more having to worry about it ripping apart . I spent the whole day putting this in fuck this install !
Lets just say I found it easier to remove the motor then install those lol.
@@VehicularDIY your the master of doing repairs I wish you were local I’d pay to have you work on my shit .
What is the easiest way to replace the coupler that mates the two outlets ? I have the aluminum VRSF outlet and pure upgraded turbos.
hey did you ever figure that out. Mine blew and it’s kicking my ass trying to put the replacement back on
@@jonathandenenno305i Just replaced it couple weeks ago. I had to take out the canisters, coolant tank moved out the way, I removed the boost solenoids with the rack it’s mounted to. After that I was able to remove them. Took me a couple hours and some patience and a bowl of chronic lol I also went ahead and replaced the o rings on the outlets.
Was wondering how long they would last
So it is not recommended for stock turbos? I am FBO and adding inlets. I should not do outlets? Thanks
wow...i am waiting for this tutorial actually..yeah, I watch the other video with silicone but this one....
Excellent video, im checking if VTT have the RHD outlets. Are these still connected to the DAW 775 turbos and VSRF intercooler (2.5inch connection)? how are the DAWs holding up and how many miles put on it so far?
Thank you, I have DAW 750RS and an eBay 5" intercooler. The DAW turbos have held up great so far, have about 7K miles on them I believe.
Great video as always. You mentioned your car makes about 550whp, can you please do a dyno video?
Thanks I have a video when my car was auto making 540 whp and the tune has been turned up since then and I converted to manual so I'm expecting at least 550. I plan on going to a dyno again soon.
Vrsf next time. Those are no bigger than stock which is basically a waste of damn near 200 dollars.
Do you think these are better that the vsfr 2" ones ?
So helpful video !
Thank you very much.
I just finished doing that job. I don't notice any power increase in the low RPMs and mid range and I think my boost pressure has dropped from 12 pounds to9 pounds. This could probably be due to less velocity ! I don't drive my car in the upper RPM range very often so I think I made a mistake and should've left it alone
I wouldn't expect for the boost to drop. Are you confident that there is no boost leaks?
If you lost boost you did something wrong
Can you do power gain result?
I was always like.... silicone?? There? You know there's hot iron manifolds right next to them, right? So, ya, I never installed new silicone outlets cuz, well, pretty much anything burns or melts over 800F. I am probably gonna install a low mounted single Precision Gen2 6266 with it's own custom ceramic coated aluminum oulet pipe.
Hello 👋🏻 nice upload like always,off topic question any input why would the rad fans be on high speed all the time as soon as you start the engine?07 335i car doesn’t overheat or anything,maybe water pump going bad 🤷🏻♂️bad temp sensor 🤷🏻♂️any input would be appreciated thanks
The car could be going straight into limp mode also. The car would trigger the fans on full in limp mode. Trouble codes would be a good place to start. Do you have access to MHD?
@@VehicularDIY OK that makes sense I’m in the process of changing the HPFP its on limp mode now,I’m just waiting on the HPFP to arrive trouble code is 2fbc
Thank you
What kind of Ignition Coils are you using and are they compatible with 08 E60 N54?
What upgraded turbos do you have?
Late to the party. He's running DAW 775's right now. I think they stopped selling them, there is a lot of tcontroversy with the owner of the company. Good thread on e90 post all about it. Your e better off running Pure 600's or RB Turbos
What’s that Allen key tool called my friend?!?
Nice. Do they fit right hand drive?
This post should be helpful: www.boostaddict.com/showthread.php?97902-N54-RHD-Twin-Turbo-oulets-by-VTT
Do u know why BMW put those pinch points on the factory outlets?? Theres plenty of clearance down there so I cant seem to think of any logical reasons...
I think maybe that part is shared on RHD cars?
@@VehicularDIY oohh yeah! That actually makes a LOT of sense now lol thanks man.. I'm glad that ur still showing the n54 love even tho u have such a SEXY b58 right next to it lol
still nervous to do my inlets.....
It'll be worth the labor, they have to be one of the best bang for your buck mods you could do on an N54.
Well worth doing mate, I done mine by myself and it’s not that hard to be honest, would of been easier with 2 of ya, don’t forget to lube up the rear inlet haha
Same here, I'm actually going to do it the same time I do my valve cover gasket, hoping it'll make it easier 😬
@@micraw714 tht will make it easier mate, hardest part is cutting the rear outlet out from underneath, I’ve got VRSF inlets on mine with rb turbos n the turbo noise now is on point lol
@@br4d101 nice! I would imagine it sounds killer 😁 I've been contemplating doing my engine mounts as well so I'm thinking about doing all 3 at once so that with the subframe lowered I might have a bit more space.
What intercooler coupler is that
I wish alloy outlets were made for RHD
VTT do make them
@@Zsword92 yeah unfortunately they won’t work as the turbos are clocked slightly differently
@@bencastleman7982 any other RHD difficulties ?
Hey @Vehicular DIY is there a way you can scan my car 2007 335i sedan.I also live in Houston. I'm having a weird issue. When I step on the gas past 3k rpm limp mode message turns on and once i shut down the car and turn it back on message is gone and the runs fine until you step on it again past 3k rpm.
When's the last time you replaced your injectors? The first time mine went, that's really close to what I was experiencing. Does it shudder just a little before the CEL comes on? Also, does it seem to start up just a little rough when you first turn it on in the morning?
@@fire2k11 I just bought the car like 5days ago. and yes to the rough cold start. I did notice a vacuum hose that needs to be replaced which I will be doing on Saturday.
That sounds like a boost leak (30ff). Most likely a vacuum hose or lose intercooler pipe. Start with the vacuum lines first.
If I had to guess you might be getting a 30FF code for low boost. I'd recommend that you replace the vacuum lines to start and get a cable and download MHD. You can use it to scan codes without paying anything. If you're still getting stuck shoot me an email after that. My email is on my about section of the channel.
@@VehicularDIY okay will do that and thanks for the info. Great content by the way.
outlets diameter do not influence spool. Spool is only generated by the exhaust turbine.
Time to torque would have been a better way to put it. It would be perceived as a turbo that spools sooner.
@@VehicularDIY Technically speaking this is still wrong. It is about the mass flow to your manifold. From the Turbo Outlet to your Manifold there are other possible restrictions. So it is rather a good question what happens widening the diameter than assuming having spool retarded. Most probably you won´t have spool issues rather increased wgdc due to less restrictions at the compressing side.
To help answer that I could do a data log and compare to my previous logs. The silicone outlets were 2". We could monitor wgdc.
@@VehicularDIY Thinking about this longer. I guess you won´t be able to measure a difference. Neither of us knows where the biggest restriction for air flow is. Could be well the intake valves.
It is a really interesting topic and it would be great if you would find data which shows advantages or disadvantages.
Another factor is the silicone outlets would likely swell up under boost, a lot of variables to consider but the way I see it is the stock outlets were barely a restriction even with a 1" opening so going 1.5" all the way is a pretty significate upgrade and you always want the smallest pipe that won't cause a restriction for air velocity. Otherwise all cars would come with a 4" exhaust if it made sense to go big.
i heard to keep stock outlets because this guy went through 3 different outlets in a year
Quality. As usual.
Watching this just made me realize I should of done this before I put in the relocated inlets :/
Lol I have relocated inlets as well
i think dropping down pipes would be easier great video
Do silicone inlets pose a melting risk?
No they are mostly away from heat.
@@VehicularDIY my hero 🥳
Do these fit 17ts ?
Hey could you help me diagnose a problem with a factory backup cam on a LCI E92.?
Sure, what's happening with it? Black screen?
@@VehicularDIY no black screen at all just the PDC sensors
@@VehicularDIY I can’t seem to find a wiring diagram on the OEM backup cam I want to go back and check all the wiring but I’m not the person that installed it so it can make it difficult. I send you pictures of the problem on Instagram DM.
Nice video that looked easy I will to this soon as well for my n54😃
Haha I hope it didn't look too easy, it's a bit of PITA but can be done mostly from above.
@@VehicularDIY it takes some time but not that hard
Necessity for RHD boys as the OE pipes are rubbish
nice
No plastics gang
The upgrade you can't do with RHD : (.
They now make a RHD kit that fits past the steering shaft. Getting to the rear v-band clamp still sucks, definitely remove your downpipes. It's not fun.
nasty job , but good for you