I was recently given an old ride on mower (no idea what kind), with a peerless 718A transmission. Belt and pulley from engine, then chain and sprockets to the rear axle. Havent seen any other mowers like it.
Those smaller gearboxes were also found on a lot of the earlier commercial walk-behind mowers, and used two belt tensioner to independently control the wheels. Smaller walk behinds or less expensive ones also had these transmissions.
Ahh I remember in the late 80s walking behind a scag 52 inch for many hours during a summer job that had a 700 on it iirc. At least it looked like it, thinking back with my fuzzy memory.
There were walk behind scags with those transmissions, especially the older ones. Those things were built like tanks, which is why I have one. I have a 48" Scag walk behind with a 20 HP Kohler Magnum engine which replaced the blown Kawasaki engine that came with it. Mine has a hydro, but the geared transmissions are far cheaper and easier to work on.
i plan on using one of these things for my mud mower hopefully. the way i want to use it is that i have a 3-speed gear box and a 6-speed transaxle. the gear box is gonna be used as my high, middle, and low range for my mower. the idea is to eliminate as much belt as possible so i can have less belt slipidge. my engine pulley is gonna go to the gear box, the there is gonna be a chain running to the 6-speed rear-end. after a while i hope to convert the whole thing to chain drive
I found steel bevel and pinion new old stock peerless 700 gears. I saved the boxes and model numbers if you want the model numbers let me know. I have been running them on asphalt for about a year on my vertical shaft motorcycle with no wear on the gears whatsoever. They still look brand new
When you say I can swap the parts from this into a 800 or 900 series transaxle do you mean I can swap the gears from one of these into a 820 transaxle?
I found my splicer transaxle has steel gears and almost all of them are compatible. I modded a 31 tooth front steel gear and a 19 tooth rear so I have 25-25 for 1st and 31-19 for second
Want to hook a 607cc Pred to one of these. Wishing for one that is horizontal instead of vertical input. Considering their 1000 series gearbox but dont like the extra link in the chain to break!
i have a little homemade tractor where i put peerless transmission on its side so the input shaft is faceing left. do you think its going to last long? and where can i get new bushing for it. i also have videos on youtube.
Sounds interesting, Id love to see it! Can you post some pics and a description here---> facebook.com/pages/Sprockets-Garage/693635757371137 Whether it is up to the task, kinda depends on if you've got it firmly mounted and supported, and the gearing is reasonable.
ive had 4 700's myself. few things ill add: Snow blowers/tiller applications will most likely have a wicked long imput shaft, like 3" long. Some are RTV'd together at the case halfs, and some use paper gaskets only 1 out of the 4 ive got had dual splined shafts coming out. And this is a example of you saying how to put a bigger driver sprocket on, but mines welded up and done: www.atltf.com/t3950-how-to-home-brew-peerless-700-bigger-driver-sprocket?highlight=how+to+sprocket
Alternate output sprocket part numbers, oil seal part number, and other parts info can be found here- www.atltf.com/t4392-peerless-700-overview-video#60033
I asked this on another channel as well. I've been asked to build a utility vehicle for a mechanic in a factory and thinking of using this 700 transaxle. Are they strong enough to carry his tools and broken machine parts inside a huge factory floor? Planning to use a Clonda 6.5 HP Clone to pull it with. Also can these be shifted on the go like while racing or do they need to be stopped or in a slow roll to change gears? I've used them on lawnmowers but it's been so long I can't remember. Thank You for putting out the information you have. Good Video.
Phil Lowman In no particular order: The 700 CAN be shifted while moving, although it is not really designed to do so. If you're gentle about it, it will be a lot more tolerant of that. Too rough, and the shift keys will be damaged. I think the 700 will work for material handling equipment, such as you are describing. If I were designing it, I would take the extra precaution to support the input shaft. You mention using a honda clone to power the machine- these are generally horizontal shaft engines, and the 700 is a vertical shaft input. What's your plan to work around that? Feel free to bring this concept and discussion to my FB group! facebook.com/groups/1436451796649450/
can u help me i am running a scag walk behind and it seams to keep jumping out of gear when i am in any forward gear in and out as i go , do u know of any reason of trhat and is there any thing i can do ,i have took it apart and looked no gears r broken i am at a lose please help in any way
It allows air to come in and out due to temperature changes and expansion/contraction of the oil. All automotive gearboxes have this also. I can't answer the 2nd question other than really all you need it the vent which is usually some kind of plastic capped check valve kinda thingy, at least on cars.
Can you put 21 horse in front of that 700 with 6-12 Agg tires o the other end? I was thinking those 700's were for very small riding mowers. I have an 820 with 1" axles witch would be stronger?
I think I did mention snowblowers, but yes. I actually scored one in a 1980-ish Sears (Murray) 8hp front-engined mower. That was a surprise. In some tillers, too- I hear.
Odd question for a different application of these Transmissions: if you spin the input shaft one way the output shaft turns a certain way. If you turn the input shaft the opposite way does the output shaft likewise turn the opposite direction? Nice video, thank you very much.
What's your opinion on a peerless 700 with 1:1 gearing on input and output. The input would have a regular tensioner clutch and the output would have an electronic pto clutch from a lawn mower deck for "shift on the fly". this project will be powered by an 8hp Briggs on a mobility scooter frame with original small mobility scooter tires.
Honestly, I think the electric PTO clutch is pretty pointless. These CAN be shifted while moving, you just need to be gentle. In order to "complete" the shift, the internals need to rotate into place, as the shift keys only index the shift spur gears at 90 degree intervals. If you stop all input motion with the tensioner clutch, and stop all output side motion with the electric PTO clutch, then the keys won't index until motion resumes. This is where the threat of damage lays. If you get off the tensioner clutch too hard, the keys can break. Similarly, if the electric PTO clutch kicks in, it's an abrupt action (because they ARE abrupt by nature). My two cents? Skip the PTO clutch and just do the tensioner on the input side as normal.
Hey im new to these small manual gearboxes and i see that these dont operate quite like an automotive manual transmission. More specifically, the way it shifts. Are these transmissions synchronised? if not, how do you shift on the fly? Do you have to double clutch it or do you just bangshift it? Thanks
+UberBrostep They are not synchronized. They will tolerate shifting while moving to a certain degree, more so if you're fairly gentle. Use the clutch while shifting. DO expect wear on the shift keys.
Thank you for sharing your videos. I need your help if possible. I am building a copy of the vehicle "MULE M274", I have a 13hp engine with "WET CLUTCH 2: 1", and I also have a "Peerless 700074" transmission with three speeds forward and one back. What do you think of this set. Thank you
Sounds like an interesting build! You should join my FB group, and post your progress. We have a lot of guys that will be interested to see it, and a lot that will be more than willing to help! facebook.com/groups/sprocketsgarage/
You could try a local small engine parts supplier, or one online like Jack's Small Engines. Or, perhaps Ebay. I just dig one out of the parts heap. Sorry I don't have anything more specific.
I have one that blowed its reverse chain than got caught in the first gear and completely blew first gear. That was at lawn mowing speed. Couldn't imagine one blowing at race speed! Anyway, think I will try and find the parts and rebuild it. Or just use it for parts.
I am running a peerless 700 on a go kart I want yo use oil instead of grease. Do you have to change the bronze bushing to something esle? Like a roller bearing. Cuz I had oil in mine And it was leaking from those bronze bushing. Thanks
I have a 5 speed 700 ( this is used not for racing but for cutting the grass only ). I came across an article putting down the recommended peerless transmission bentonite grease. This person take on it was that it goes in as a liquid but turned very thick and settles in the bottom case no longer reaching or staying on the gears. If you have any insight on this issue (I am about to clean the gears up and replace the grease) I would be interested in your feedback before I do this job. Thanks
I too, am of the opinion that grease flings off and stays off- which is why for any of my own applications that run higher speed than stock, I convert for oil lubrication. There is no road-going transmission, gearbox, or differential that I have ever heard of, that uses grease- hence my choice. Bentonite can be kind of goopy at times, but does seem to have a tendency to dry out over time, rendering it totally useless in my opinion. Thanks for watching, hope that helps.
I have a scag walk behind with a 5 speed peerless. In second gear it transfers power intermittently. Almost like it is slipping in and out of gear. All other speeds and reverse work fine. Do you have any idea how I could remedy this problm
You'll have to crack it open. If the problem only occurs in second, the most likely cause is the 2nd gear spur gears either have tooth damage, or the shift key indexes are damaged. Other possibilities exist, but that's the first place I would look.
Hi doc thanks so muchos for your tutorials they are very very helpful. But i have a question so i do undetstand better how this transition work on a race mower. Ok my question can you shitf gears wen you are racing with out stop using a clutch ? Like a car?
There's not a lot of shifting going on during racing. Guys will optimize everything to race in a particular gear, and generally stay there. These CAN be shifted while moving but it's best to use the clutch, and remember what you're using- a mower transmission. They're not synchronized, and you're not sliding gears on a shaft like a car transmission. Those shift fingers will only handle so much. Thanks for watching!
Doc I have had the same thoughts about the live axle set up on a off roader and I would like to but I don't have the gearbox but anyway what I was thinking of doing is making an axle housing like on a car With a whole bunch of bracing and bearings inside with a slot cut out for a sprocket and mounting it all up with suspension just like a car but I don't have the time or money
I am going to be building a project and am getting a peerless 700-023 5 speed, wondering where you can get the 36 spline I think it is, sprocket for the output shaft?
Sometimes, there's numbers stamped into the gears. Sometimes. Otherwise, that'll be tough. You'll have to find an online parts diagram or possibly bring the gear into a small engine shop along with the numbers off the transmission ID tag. If it helps, they use the same gearsets as the 800 and 900 series transaxles.
Hi! What could be wrong with the Peerles 700 5 speed When the machine is running, it doesn't go overboard and shake the gear stick What could be wrong and where can I get parts ordered in Finland?
Doc, I love your video, very informative, Thanks! What you said about the sprockets was confusing though. You said it's better to overspeed the 700 rather than over torque it, and then when you described how to set the pulleys up you contradicted that statement. Larger engine pulley and smaller input and output pulleys on 700 = more speed, less torque on trans. If you put similar pulleys on engine and trans, the trans is seeing all the engine torque, and then you have to put a bigger sprocket on output to make speed, so it's seeing more wheel torque too... So which is better? more speed or more torque? Thanks again for a great video
Hi- Allow me to review, and either correct or clarify. Please give me the times (minutes and seconds) where to look in the video to examine the statements. I filmed this almost 4 years ago.
Nevermind, I found it. You're right, the statements were a little confusing and I should have been more clear. In the pulley size example, I was also trying to suggest that you not overspeed the input too much, either. Moderation is the key- having a fairly reasonable input ratio, then using the output and axle sprocket to fine tune your wheel speed, increasing as necessary. Obviously, the opposite is also true. With a small engine pulley and a large input, you'd be applying a lot of torque to the trans. I hope that helped a bit. I always MEAN to write an actual script, and never actually DO it... LOL
You CAN, and it will tolerate it to some degree, but it's really not DESIGNED to. For the longest life, it's best to baby it, especially on the downshifts. But sooner or later, the shift keys will decide they've had enough.
i have one of those in my mower which is very noisy i took it apart cleaned it all up and put heavy 90 gear oil in it plus stp treatment, it all looked in good condition but the thing is still noisy, would you have any idea which parts i would need to fix it i have heard other mowers with same gearbox making the same noise .
I'll take you up on answering some questions. I have an 800 peerless that bucks then loses drive. Drive belt is in good shape maybe 3 years old, shifts into gear well. What is likely to cause that condition? I took it apart spun the gears to inspect for wear and function seems ok. Didn't bother to take gears out to clean as teeth all look good. 4 Shift keys are not broken - a little wear on edge. Maybe some slop in bevel input gear needing more thrust washers to tighten tolerances, is that the right part to investigate? are there any keys holding a drive gear onto shaft that may have sheared? thanks
I have a couple questions to help narrow it down. When it does that, does the shifter move positions? Can you select a a gear and go again? What do you have to do to get it moving again?
@@DocSprocket Thanks for Reply! The shifter does not move positions when it looses engagement. To get it to go again I fiddle between reverse and 1st to get moving. It may buck, if it engaged I might shift into 2nd or 3rd, its a 5 forward speed, usually no luck into 4 or 5. It began end of leaf collecting season while towing. I repaired input drive, the one that attaches to pulley, drive belt and beveled gear with the bevel drive 6 or 7 years ago by removing a mid shaft c-clip because it chewed up surfaces and filled the space with a few select washers to tighten tolerances. I think there are other things I could do for the input shaft, but would also appreciate your direction. thank you.
@Daniel Hahn There's a distinct possibility that your shift keys are shot. As you go from one gear position to the next, they momentarily compress, and then spring into the next position. If and when they start losing their spring temper, the tips won't pop out and seat in the gears. This may be your problem. No guarantees without an internal inspection of course, but that it my thought.
@@DocSprocket took apart and inspected the shift key and gears per your suggestion, determined that shift keys catch edges are likely too rounded and 2nd and 3rd gear are also candidates for replacement, their edges were pretty beat too. thank you. Is it typical to see 2nd and 3rd gear more beat than 1st? Any suggestions where to shop for good parts for less? something happened new with Google search where I'm not getting typical John Deere websites with a JD part number, seems a push to aftermarket parts, ebayer has keys for $35 a pair about half the JD retail.
I got a 5 speed Progear t5711t it's a Chinese replacement for peerless. I got it used and Wana rebuildmit. Are the bushings and bearings the same as peerless?
@@DocSprocket I thought maybe so. Hey your from ontario csnada? I'm out by kingston ont. Retired just starting to have fun. If your in ontario I'd be interested in group activities with mowers I'm working on a racer I have a couple others one a mid 80s craftsman with 18hp 5 speed thinking of going a little taller for rocks mud n such. Your channel has been like a guiding light for me thanx
Would it be posible to run a 2 speed where you are using 2 sets of 2 gear sets of the same size in the gearing. For example first gear will be using, from a 4 speed version, 1st and 2nd engaged at the same time of the same gearing tooth number, for strength of the gears. and 3rd and 4th will be the 2nd gear made the same way?
For this to work as I think you're thinking, you'd need custom made shift keys that could engage 2 pair of gears at a time. Since the keys are spring steel, this would take some doing.
can you mount these upside down (pulley shaft pointing up) with the oil mod, or will that ruin it? And can you shift on the fly with these transmissions while racing? Response would be greatly appreciated. Also how much oil does one of these take?
You could run one of these upside down with a good shifter seal, but you'd then want to drill a new vent hole. Any of this breed of Peerless CAN be shifted on the fly but you'll want to be gentle, especially on the downshift. FYI most racers pick a gear and stay in it. As for the actual amount of oil, I don't recall. I fill them while open, and only fill the bottom half of the case 1/3 to 1/2. No need to overfill, the larger gears pick it up and fling it around plenty.
What I did just to test it temporarily was I ran a rubber hose from the original vent hole (now on the bottom of the transmission under all the oil) to above the transmission so it would have some sort of pressure relief, would this be an appropriate permanent setup or Should i plug the original vent hole and drill a new one in the top of the case? Hopefully that made sense haha
+FutureMarinecuv902 That's simple enough, thank you for that. I manly wanted to know so that I know before I go check out a craigslist posting on used riding lawn mowers.
Show us how to reassemble Took my 710 a peerless transmission apart nothing fell out but it won't go back together properly soon as I tighten the bolts it vines up and doesn't turn freely wtf
+dave averesch Could be the bushings. Watch my video called "You Know What Really Grinds My Gears?", and pay attention to the reassemble details, specifically the bushings. It is NOT a 700 in that video, but the information still applies.
+Sprocket's Garage hey I appreciate that it worked like a charm first try basically I swapped out for all new bronze berrings/bushings with out the key lol
john hinders First off- the gears in the 700 are straight cut, not helical or bevel, to they tend to be loud. Grease flings off surfaces, and stays off. Check that. Now- one mistake I have seen very common is to mistake a noisy clutch pulley bearing for a transmission noise. Verify that. Failing all else, inspect input shaft roller bearings.
Yes- that should help quiet things down some. Be sure to replace the O-ring or seal on the input shaft with a new seal (Timken part number 340387) and seal the case halves and around the bushings with RTV sealant. Vent the case via the hole on top for the Neutral Safety Switch with a 1/4NPTxHose Barb fitting. Don't go crazy on the oil- too much will just get messy.
Great Minds Think Alike.. Live Axle and a Divorced Peerless 700 ... Last Two days I have Been in the Garage Dismantling a few of my old Rear Engine Riders ,( Gathering parts i.e. peerless Seven Hundred ) ... For the Workhorse Type Abuse I put my Big Craftsman thru the Stock Hydro Rear Transaxle HAS GOT TO GO ! I Figure it would make a great boat anchor ! ha ha ! Tossing Around The Idea of Building a 6 Wheeler, How Cool Would That Be ? Let me Know We'll Swap Ideas Around .BB
someone put sand in mine, and i took it apart, to clean it , but when i put it back together, and it didnt click right anymore, And i chipped a few teeth.
I was recently given an old ride on mower (no idea what kind), with a peerless 718A transmission. Belt and pulley from engine, then chain and sprockets to the rear axle. Havent seen any other mowers like it.
Those smaller gearboxes were also found on a lot of the earlier commercial walk-behind mowers, and used two belt tensioner to independently control the wheels. Smaller walk behinds or less expensive ones also had these transmissions.
Ahh I remember in the late 80s walking behind a scag 52 inch for many hours during a summer job that had a 700 on it iirc.
At least it looked like it, thinking back with my fuzzy memory.
There were walk behind scags with those transmissions, especially the older ones. Those things were built like tanks, which is why I have one. I have a 48" Scag walk behind with a 20 HP Kohler Magnum engine which replaced the blown Kawasaki engine that came with it. Mine has a hydro, but the geared transmissions are far cheaper and easier to work on.
I’ve got one on my Toro Proline wall behind. Good hardy transmissions. Wish they still made them.
i plan on using one of these things for my mud mower hopefully. the way i want to use it is that i have a 3-speed gear box and a 6-speed transaxle. the gear box is gonna be used as my high, middle, and low range for my mower. the idea is to eliminate as much belt as possible so i can have less belt slipidge. my engine pulley is gonna go to the gear box, the there is gonna be a chain running to the 6-speed rear-end. after a while i hope to convert the whole thing to chain drive
No chain drive when it comes to that just build something else .2 better than 1
I know this is an old video, but I need one of those 700's
Hey there, you can also machine out the output shaft holes and install needle bearings. I think the bearings can be purchased from miller bearings.
I found steel bevel and pinion new old stock peerless 700 gears. I saved the boxes and model numbers if you want the model numbers let me know. I have been running them on asphalt for about a year on my vertical shaft motorcycle with no wear on the gears whatsoever. They still look brand new
I was hoping he was going to talk about the different pinion shafts, along with the 2 and 4 keyway output shafts.
Great Video Doc..I have two 700's in my stash..I have future plans for at least one thus far...
Cheers, very helpful for race prepping and general information
When you say I can swap the parts from this into a 800 or 900 series transaxle do you mean I can swap the gears from one of these into a 820 transaxle?
Another excellent and informative video Doc,thanks for the insight
Glad you like it- Thanks!
I found my splicer transaxle has steel gears and almost all of them are compatible. I modded a 31 tooth front steel gear and a 19 tooth rear so I have 25-25 for 1st and 31-19 for second
Man, I just had a look at your bike. Love it!
Want to hook a 607cc Pred to one of these. Wishing for one that is horizontal instead of vertical input. Considering their 1000 series gearbox but dont like the extra link in the chain to break!
i have a little homemade tractor where i put peerless transmission on its side so the input shaft is faceing left. do you think its going to last long? and where can i get new bushing for it. i also have videos on youtube.
Sounds interesting, Id love to see it! Can you post some pics and a description here---> facebook.com/pages/Sprockets-Garage/693635757371137
Whether it is up to the task, kinda depends on if you've got it firmly mounted and supported, and the gearing is reasonable.
Sprocketsgarage Update- post here- facebook.com/groups/1436451796649450/
Are all the bushing going to get lube?
ive had 4 700's myself. few things ill add:
Snow blowers/tiller applications will most likely have a wicked long imput shaft, like 3" long.
Some are RTV'd together at the case halfs, and some use paper gaskets
only 1 out of the 4 ive got had dual splined shafts coming out.
And this is a example of you saying how to put a bigger driver sprocket on, but mines welded up and done:
www.atltf.com/t3950-how-to-home-brew-peerless-700-bigger-driver-sprocket?highlight=how+to+sprocket
Thanks for the additional info!
Alternate output sprocket part numbers, oil seal part number, and other parts info can be found here- www.atltf.com/t4392-peerless-700-overview-video#60033
ok do you think it's possible to build a 6-speed when there is no neutral
+ethan “One Toxic Redneck” carter I suppose. Don't know why you would want to do that, though.
I asked this on another channel as well. I've been asked to build a utility vehicle for a mechanic in a factory and thinking of using this 700 transaxle. Are they strong enough to carry his tools and broken machine parts inside a huge factory floor? Planning to use a Clonda 6.5 HP Clone to pull it with. Also can these be shifted on the go like while racing or do they need to be stopped or in a slow roll to change gears? I've used them on lawnmowers but it's been so long I can't remember. Thank You for putting out the information you have. Good Video.
Phil Lowman In no particular order: The 700 CAN be shifted while moving, although it is not really designed to do so. If you're gentle about it, it will be a lot more tolerant of that. Too rough, and the shift keys will be damaged.
I think the 700 will work for material handling equipment, such as you are describing. If I were designing it, I would take the extra precaution to support the input shaft.
You mention using a honda clone to power the machine- these are generally horizontal shaft engines, and the 700 is a vertical shaft input. What's your plan to work around that?
Feel free to bring this concept and discussion to my FB group! facebook.com/groups/1436451796649450/
can u help me i am running a scag walk behind and it seams to keep jumping out of gear when i am in any forward gear in and out as i go , do u know of any reason of trhat and is there any thing i can do ,i have took it apart and looked no gears r broken i am at a lose please help in any way
I'd bet your shift keys are bad.
What's the purpose of the vent? And how exactly does one install it?
It allows air to come in and out due to temperature changes and expansion/contraction of the oil. All automotive gearboxes have this also. I can't answer the 2nd question other than really all you need it the vent which is usually some kind of plastic capped check valve kinda thingy, at least on cars.
i got one from a scag walk behind mower
So you bolt the plate on then slide the locker on the snout then weld it to the plate ?
Can you put 21 horse in front of that 700 with 6-12 Agg tires o the other end? I was thinking those 700's were for very small riding mowers. I have an 820 with 1" axles witch would be stronger?
Great tips will help me with the minor mods on my Peerless 700 in the Goofy Cart.
I found a peerless 700series 3spd in a craftsman walk behind snowblower, keep your eyes out for snowblowers that aren't friction drive
I think I did mention snowblowers, but yes. I actually scored one in a 1980-ish Sears (Murray) 8hp front-engined mower. That was a surprise. In some tillers, too- I hear.
Odd question for a different application of these Transmissions: if you spin the input shaft one way the output shaft turns a certain way. If you turn the input shaft the opposite way does the output shaft likewise turn the opposite direction? Nice video, thank you very much.
Short answer: yes.
What's your opinion on a peerless 700 with 1:1 gearing on input and output. The input would have a regular tensioner clutch and the output would have an electronic pto clutch from a lawn mower deck for "shift on the fly". this project will be powered by an 8hp Briggs on a mobility scooter frame with original small mobility scooter tires.
Honestly, I think the electric PTO clutch is pretty pointless. These CAN be shifted while moving, you just need to be gentle. In order to "complete" the shift, the internals need to rotate into place, as the shift keys only index the shift spur gears at 90 degree intervals. If you stop all input motion with the tensioner clutch, and stop all output side motion with the electric PTO clutch, then the keys won't index until motion resumes. This is where the threat of damage lays. If you get off the tensioner clutch too hard, the keys can break. Similarly, if the electric PTO clutch kicks in, it's an abrupt action (because they ARE abrupt by nature). My two cents? Skip the PTO clutch and just do the tensioner on the input side as normal.
Hey im new to these small manual gearboxes and i see that these dont operate quite like an automotive manual transmission. More specifically, the way it shifts. Are these transmissions synchronised? if not, how do you shift on the fly? Do you have to double clutch it or do you just bangshift it? Thanks
+UberBrostep They are not synchronized. They will tolerate shifting while moving to a certain degree, more so if you're fairly gentle. Use the clutch while shifting. DO expect wear on the shift keys.
Thank you for sharing your videos.
I need your help if possible. I
am building a copy of the vehicle "MULE M274", I have a 13hp engine
with "WET CLUTCH 2: 1", and I also have a "Peerless 700074" transmission
with three speeds forward and one back.
What do you think of this set.
Thank you
Sounds like an interesting build! You should join my FB group, and post your progress. We have a lot of guys that will be interested to see it, and a lot that will be more than willing to help! facebook.com/groups/sprocketsgarage/
Are the gearsets compatible with mst transmissions to your knowledge
No, they are not. 700, 800 and 900 are interchangeable.
@@DocSprocket thanks for this, im looking to convert my 3 to a 5 speed.
where do you get brass or bronze bushings for the peerless 700 transmission
You could try a local small engine parts supplier, or one online like Jack's Small Engines. Or, perhaps Ebay. I just dig one out of the parts heap.
Sorry I don't have anything more specific.
thanks
I have one that blowed its reverse chain than got caught in the first gear and completely blew first gear. That was at lawn mowing speed. Couldn't imagine one blowing at race speed! Anyway, think I will try and find the parts and rebuild it. Or just use it for parts.
I am running a peerless 700 on a go kart I want yo use oil instead of grease. Do you have to change the bronze bushing to something esle? Like a roller bearing. Cuz I had oil in mine And it was leaking from those bronze bushing. Thanks
I have a 5 speed 700 ( this is used not for racing but for cutting the grass only ). I came across an article putting down the recommended peerless transmission bentonite grease. This person take on it was that it goes in as a liquid but turned very thick and settles in the bottom case no longer reaching or staying on the gears. If you have any insight on this issue (I am about to clean the gears up and replace the grease) I would be interested in your feedback before I do this job. Thanks
I too, am of the opinion that grease flings off and stays off- which is why for any of my own applications that run higher speed than stock, I convert for oil lubrication. There is no road-going transmission, gearbox, or differential that I have ever heard of, that uses grease- hence my choice.
Bentonite can be kind of goopy at times, but does seem to have a tendency to dry out over time, rendering it totally useless in my opinion.
Thanks for watching, hope that helps.
I have a scag walk behind with a 5 speed peerless. In second gear it transfers power intermittently. Almost like it is slipping in and out of gear. All other speeds and reverse work fine. Do you have any idea how I could remedy this problm
You'll have to crack it open. If the problem only occurs in second, the most likely cause is the 2nd gear spur gears either have tooth damage, or the shift key indexes are damaged. Other possibilities exist, but that's the first place I would look.
Sprocket's Garage would this be a simple fix. Iam mechanically inclined but have never worked on one of these
Not hard at all. Google up a copy of the Tecumseh/Peerless motion Drive System manual, it covers disassembly and reassembly of the unit.
I took reverse out. And. Preped it with oil a sealed it up and now 1-4 won't stay in gear 5th works good any clue what I did wrong?
Where do I get a bigger sprocket
I have a 8 tooth
I want to change it
question my second gear has issues runs then slips then pops ??
Good vid doc
Hi doc thanks so muchos for your tutorials they are very very helpful. But i have a question so i do undetstand better how this transition work on a race mower. Ok my question can you shitf gears wen you are racing with out stop using a clutch ? Like a car?
There's not a lot of shifting going on during racing. Guys will optimize everything to race in a particular gear, and generally stay there. These CAN be shifted while moving but it's best to use the clutch, and remember what you're using- a mower transmission. They're not synchronized, and you're not sliding gears on a shaft like a car transmission. Those shift fingers will only handle so much. Thanks for watching!
Doc I have had the same thoughts about the live axle set up on a off roader and I would like to but I don't have the gearbox but anyway what I was thinking of doing is making an axle housing like on a car
With a whole bunch of bracing and bearings inside with a slot cut out for a sprocket and mounting it all up with suspension just like a car but I don't have the time or money
I am going to be building a project and am getting a peerless 700-023 5 speed, wondering where you can get the 36 spline I think it is, sprocket for the output shaft?
I need to replace my bevel spur gear what can I use?
I have one of these transmissions and one of the gears is missing several teeth. How do I identify the gear so I can order a new one?
Sometimes, there's numbers stamped into the gears. Sometimes. Otherwise, that'll be tough. You'll have to find an online parts diagram or possibly bring the gear into a small engine shop along with the numbers off the transmission ID tag. If it helps, they use the same gearsets as the 800 and 900 series transaxles.
wair did you get the sprocket
Hi! What could be wrong with the Peerles 700 5 speed
When the machine is running, it doesn't go overboard and shake the gear stick
What could be wrong and where can I get parts ordered in Finland?
I need help understanding the problem. "Doesn't go overboard" is not making sense to me.
Doc, I love your video, very informative, Thanks! What you said about the sprockets was confusing though. You said it's better to overspeed the 700 rather than over torque it, and then when you described how to set the pulleys up you contradicted that statement. Larger engine pulley and smaller input and output pulleys on 700 = more speed, less torque on trans. If you put similar pulleys on engine and trans, the trans is seeing all the engine torque, and then you have to put a bigger sprocket on output to make speed, so it's seeing more wheel torque too... So which is better? more speed or more torque? Thanks again for a great video
Hi- Allow me to review, and either correct or clarify. Please give me the times (minutes and seconds) where to look in the video to examine the statements. I filmed this almost 4 years ago.
Nevermind, I found it. You're right, the statements were a little confusing and I should have been more clear. In the pulley size example, I was also trying to suggest that you not overspeed the input too much, either. Moderation is the key- having a fairly reasonable input ratio, then using the output and axle sprocket to fine tune your wheel speed, increasing as necessary. Obviously, the opposite is also true. With a small engine pulley and a large input, you'd be applying a lot of torque to the trans. I hope that helped a bit.
I always MEAN to write an actual script, and never actually DO it... LOL
Where do you guys get yer Parts from ? Is there any Cheap on-line Parts Sites. ??? Like the Videos
Big Bulldozer Brian I get most of my stuff locally, sometimes used.
Can you shift the 700 trans while it is moving or do you have to come to a complete stop?
You CAN, and it will tolerate it to some degree, but it's really not DESIGNED to. For the longest life, it's best to baby it, especially on the downshifts. But sooner or later, the shift keys will decide they've had enough.
i have one of those in my mower which is very noisy i took it apart cleaned it all up and put heavy 90 gear oil in it plus stp treatment, it all looked in good condition but the thing is still noisy, would you have any idea which parts i would need to fix it i have heard other mowers with same gearbox making the same noise .
...also, it is designed to use light grease, not oil. That might help.
I'll take you up on answering some questions. I have an 800 peerless that bucks then loses drive. Drive belt is in good shape maybe 3 years old, shifts into gear well. What is likely to cause that condition? I took it apart spun the gears to inspect for wear and function seems ok. Didn't bother to take gears out to clean as teeth all look good. 4 Shift keys are not broken - a little wear on edge. Maybe some slop in bevel input gear needing more thrust washers to tighten tolerances, is that the right part to investigate? are there any keys holding a drive gear onto shaft that may have sheared? thanks
I have a couple questions to help narrow it down. When it does that, does the shifter move positions? Can you select a a gear and go again? What do you have to do to get it moving again?
@@DocSprocket Thanks for Reply! The shifter does not move positions when it looses engagement. To get it to go again I fiddle between reverse and 1st to get moving. It may buck, if it engaged I might shift into 2nd or 3rd, its a 5 forward speed, usually no luck into 4 or 5.
It began end of leaf collecting season while towing. I repaired input drive, the one that attaches to pulley, drive belt and beveled gear with the bevel drive 6 or 7 years ago by removing a mid shaft c-clip because it chewed up surfaces and filled the space with a few select washers to tighten tolerances. I think there are other things I could do for the input shaft, but would also appreciate your direction. thank you.
@Daniel Hahn There's a distinct possibility that your shift keys are shot. As you go from one gear position to the next, they momentarily compress, and then spring into the next position. If and when they start losing their spring temper, the tips won't pop out and seat in the gears. This may be your problem. No guarantees without an internal inspection of course, but that it my thought.
@@DocSprocket took apart and inspected the shift key and gears per your suggestion, determined that shift keys catch edges are likely too rounded and 2nd and 3rd gear are also candidates for replacement, their edges were pretty beat too. thank you. Is it typical to see 2nd and 3rd gear more beat than 1st? Any suggestions where to shop for good parts for less? something happened new with Google search where I'm not getting typical John Deere websites with a JD part number, seems a push to aftermarket parts, ebayer has keys for $35 a pair about half the JD retail.
What are the most common mowers to find these in
Just look for a lawn mower junk yard.
I got a 5 speed Progear t5711t it's a Chinese replacement for peerless. I got it used and Wana rebuildmit.
Are the bushings and bearings the same as peerless?
Honestly, I have no idea. Never seen one.
It's a Chinese clone same as that ec carburetor trans copy of the peerless 700 5 speed
@@francoreia8147 If it's a true clone, then parts will interchange.
@@DocSprocket I thought maybe so.
Hey your from ontario csnada?
I'm out by kingston ont. Retired just starting to have fun. If your in ontario I'd be interested in group activities with mowers I'm working on a racer I have a couple others one a mid 80s craftsman with 18hp 5 speed thinking of going a little taller for rocks mud n such.
Your channel has been like a guiding light for me thanx
Would it be posible to run a 2 speed where you are using 2 sets of 2 gear sets of the same size in the gearing. For example first gear will be using, from a 4 speed version, 1st and 2nd engaged at the same time of the same gearing tooth number, for strength of the gears. and 3rd and 4th will be the 2nd gear made the same way?
For this to work as I think you're thinking, you'd need custom made shift keys that could engage 2 pair of gears at a time. Since the keys are spring steel, this would take some doing.
Thanks, I got one of those to play with and I never worked on one yet,
can you mount these upside down (pulley shaft pointing up) with the oil mod, or will that ruin it? And can you shift on the fly with these transmissions while racing? Response would be greatly appreciated. Also how much oil does one of these take?
You could run one of these upside down with a good shifter seal, but you'd then want to drill a new vent hole. Any of this breed of Peerless CAN be shifted on the fly but you'll want to be gentle, especially on the downshift. FYI most racers pick a gear and stay in it. As for the actual amount of oil, I don't recall. I fill them while open, and only fill the bottom half of the case 1/3 to 1/2. No need to overfill, the larger gears pick it up and fling it around plenty.
What I did just to test it temporarily was I ran a rubber hose from the original vent hole (now on the bottom of the transmission under all the oil) to above the transmission so it would have some sort of pressure relief, would this be an appropriate permanent setup or Should i plug the original vent hole and drill a new one in the top of the case? Hopefully that made sense haha
is it possible to pull out the drive shaft and change it to a key shaft? or should i go about building adapters for pulleys from the brake discs?
Rusted Edges: Danger! Due to internal shaft features, no. You'll have to make an adapter.
Sprocketsgarage balls, on another note, what is going rate for a 700? i have a line on one and do not want to pay too much
I've paid $50 each for a couple used ones. Totally regional. eccarburetors sells race prepped ones for $200.
I offered a mutual friend $50 for one and I got to pull it,
How do you usually buy your units?
What used mowers come with the 700 transmission?
Thank you
Look for rear engine lawnmower sat a junkyard
What brands and models that you know of come with the 700 transmission
+Isai Delgadillo I don't know just tip em over and look. That's what I do
+FutureMarinecuv902 That's simple enough, thank you for that. I manly wanted to know so that I know before I go check out a craigslist posting on used riding lawn mowers.
Show us how to reassemble Took my 710 a peerless transmission apart nothing fell out but it won't go back together properly soon as I tighten the bolts it vines up and doesn't turn freely wtf
+dave averesch Could be the bushings. Watch my video called "You Know What Really Grinds My Gears?", and pay attention to the reassemble details, specifically the bushings. It is NOT a 700 in that video, but the information still applies.
+Sprocket's Garage hey I appreciate that it worked like a charm first try basically I swapped out for all new bronze berrings/bushings with out the key lol
my 700 055 whines very loudly, any fix?, only a couple years old
john hinders First off- the gears in the 700 are straight cut, not helical or bevel, to they tend to be loud. Grease flings off surfaces, and stays off. Check that. Now- one mistake I have seen very common is to mistake a noisy clutch pulley bearing for a transmission noise. Verify that. Failing all else, inspect input shaft roller bearings.
all items checked ok, would running 90 weight gear oil help? The trans is in a miniture 32 ford parade car.
Yes- that should help quiet things down some. Be sure to replace the O-ring or seal on the input shaft with a new seal (Timken part number 340387) and seal the case halves and around the bushings with RTV sealant. Vent the case via the hole on top for the Neutral Safety Switch with a 1/4NPTxHose Barb fitting. Don't go crazy on the oil- too much will just get messy.
would this hold up for off roading
yes i used one off roading but the axle broke. transmission still works good
+Dr_joe_smo 24 thanks for the response i plan on useing one for my off road murray wide body
Great Minds Think Alike.. Live Axle and a Divorced Peerless 700 ... Last Two days I have Been in the Garage Dismantling a few of my old Rear Engine Riders ,( Gathering parts i.e. peerless Seven Hundred ) ... For the Workhorse Type Abuse I put my Big Craftsman thru the Stock Hydro Rear Transaxle HAS GOT TO GO ! I Figure it would make a great boat anchor ! ha ha ! Tossing Around The Idea of Building a 6 Wheeler, How Cool Would That Be ? Let me Know We'll Swap Ideas Around .BB
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Whats up doc
"Tank tractor parts"
I have a machine shop and will make non weld lockers and install them if anyone is interested.
I just picked up a 3 speed for $10 at a junkyard
someone put sand in mine, and i took it apart, to clean it , but when i put it back together, and it didnt click right anymore, And i chipped a few teeth.
Doesn't appear that he ever answered any questions
And what question would you like answered?
Hey Doc, is there anywhere, preferably in canada, to source the oil conversion seals from other than EC Carburetors?
Thanks