Jocko is by far my favourite presenter, seems so genuine and down to Earth. Not to rag on the other boys too much, but they should dial back the TV act they put on.
@@NBM397 They are OGs in the 4wd youtube game and helped run a magazine and were making DVD's long before them. give them some credit and cut them a break. They gotta make a living too. If they dont like something, they'll tell it like it is.
For sure my faith in 4wd 24/7 (to me it will always be 4wd Action!) is restored...finaly a review not based on sponsorships and brand royalties! Well done Jock, when brands aren't shoved down our throats, the fans are raving and can't wait for next episode...even the ol boys took a break from the sales and spoke their minds even if they disagreed...best episode for the last 6 months at least!
I have an auto-lokka in the front of my ZD30 D22 navara with manual locking hubs, and i can say that they are damn amazing. I have definitely noticed the stiffer steering when on higher traction surfaces, and in most cases, just backing off the power a bit helps immensely. You can even leave the hubs in and engage 2HI, and barely make a difference to steering, but on smooth surfaces you can sometimes hear them clicking. In saying that, they are mind blowing on soft sand, you can feel the vehicle clawing its way through instead of being pushed. Super easy to install. I think the most amazing thing though is with descents. With the lokka automatically engaged, you get both wheels braking forces even if one wheel is in the air, and descents are incredible more controlled. Without the lokka, if you lose traction on one front wheel it will more then likely spin faster as its being forced to spin via the transfer case, and the other wheel will lock up, causing a slide, as there is nothing actually forcing it to spin anymore, because the other side is in the air. That just doesn't happen with the front locker, and the control while on a gravel hill suprised the hell out of me. So yes definitely a vote for the autolokka. Yes, occasionally you will get the stiffer steering, and probably the most inconvenient time will be when you are about to go around a corner, but if you let your foot off, its fine. As for front/rear, scientificly, its a hard choice. I mean, LSDs are already in rears, so a locker would also help more. But in saying that, the front locker on an IFS vehicle is a no brainer. With a rear LSD already helping, the front locker works well with IFS's lack of traction. The way i think of it is this: going up hill, most of the power and center of gravity would be over the rear wheels, so those two wheels will more then likely ALWAYS be on the ground. Like jocko said, once you have one of the front wheels are in the air, you now have a 2wd vehicle. A front locker will at least give you a 3wd vehicle. A rear locker would not. You see this in never every clip here in this video, its usually one of the front wheels in the air. Hell its probably 90 percent of the time, you have a front wheel in the air. Once a front wheel is in the air, the entire front becomes useless. 3wd vs 2wd. In the case of ute with more weight on the front due to the engine, and an empty tray, your two front wheels will spend more time on the ground, and with the rear LSD already helping, giving you a rough "2.5wd" a front locker would go back to give you 3.5wd. That, and with the front locker helping prevent one wheel from spinning wildly, and then when hitting the ground it causes the CVs to snap, you simply dont have that issue anymore, and there is no need to "Send" it as hard, also make the case for a front locker first. I also see a lot more failed front diffs in utes all for the same reason. Going up a hill, front wheels go up in the air, come back down, and pieces of money fall out of the diff. So yes. i work on the principle - whatever wheels you see spin the most up in the air, they are the ones you should put a locker onto. See a wheel spinnin? lock it up!
Love watching that diesel Hilux just nearly idle up obstacles like that! Hard core off road vehicles and diesels are almost not even in the same worlds here in America, and that low-end torque looks amazing!
Love Graham’s comment you push a wheel barrow you don’t pull it. I would love to see him push a full wheel barrow up a step. If you get to a step you pull it up. Front locker is the way to go and just weld it.
@@MrTonaluv if you know someone that can weld depending on what they charge you, you only need to replace the oil. Dont do it if it doesnt have free wheeling hubs or converable auto hubs
@@bradhaines1905 welding an open diff turning it into a permanently locked diff is crazy on the front. How do you steer? It will wind up badly on the bitumen!
For a street/trail rig, I really like the combo of an aggressive limited slip e.g. worm gear type TrueTrack for the rear and an air locker for the front. Helps keep costs down while still being capable and streetable. I'm with Graham - auto lockers are just not my thing anymore. Been there, done that.
@@BuildingByFaith For one thing, it isn't selectable on and off. It's easy to be in a situation where you need to turn and can't with the front locked.
@@terrydactyl7708 that's interesting. Do you do your challenging sand driving in high or low range? A patrol mate I crossed the Simpson desert. He did most of it in low. Yet my t/d landcruiser was far happier in high. Low just dug holes and gave me no momentum.
Thanks for the very informative rundown of front/rear lockers Jocko. Now I know what I need. Greetings from Papua New Guinea mate! Keep those wonderful content flowing, we love em to pieces. Stay Safe! Cheers!
Good one Jacko 👍 For my 80, I'm planning to put a front locker first. With the type of driving I do, if I only fit a rear locker, this can increase more front wheel lifts and potentially cause a flip (torque front wheel lifts) as it pushes the vehicle up obstacles. Front lockers prevents this as it pulls the vehicle up and over obstacles. But will eventually fit both.
Keep in mind that you will lose steering ability with a front selectable lock. Especially so when weight has transferred onto front axle, ie driving down a rutted step. Front locker great at holding back vehicle on steep, loose downhills, at the expensive of steering.
I am first time watcher and if your still around i hope cause its been 2 years since this video i want to tell you thank you so much! I have been wanting to find out about the different locking situations and you did it great and humbly with no cockyness and i truly preciate that buddy. I have two 4x4s. Both from factory have limited slip rears and full time lock in front. Both are old 4x4s but great trucks. So when i fill like i dont need both lockers in front i just put them back in 2x4 and then i have limited slip rear and single tire pull front only difference in mine and yalls is yall have a real nice fancy switch that would be so convenient and i have a manual shifter i have to pull but it works. One of mine is a w 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 5.2 motor 5 speed manual looks brand new. Single cab. The other 1988 GMC ext cab K2500 with 1992 Chevy Tahoe 350 motor and a 4 speed Chevy Bulldog manual transmission. Great trucks. 88 dont look pretty but drive train is great. But it takes 40 acres to turn it around thats the only fall back with it. But i realy preciate your help but also not just talk but you did a out on trail illustration and so we cant ask for anything more than that. By what you showed and taught me i believe im good but i am always eager to learn and i sure got a whole lot to learn. Take care buddy and thanks again!
"Jocko's Toolbox" should be a regular segment. Honestly Jocko the enthusiasm you show when you are explaining the technical aspects of things is amazing! I have a 2011 Amarok equipped with a factory electric rear locker, if I was looking towards getting a front locker down the track, would it be worth converting the rear to an air locker if I was going to put an air locker(including compressor and all other needed bits) in the front? Can E locker rear and Air locker front work together or would it be a smarter option to have them both the same? Cheers
Got an TD5 and I put ann Ashcroft ATB Limited SLip Differential in both axels. It´s more of an overlander and the fact that it always provides best traction even on dirt roads was important for me. Plus the TD5 got a traction control, so even when one wheel should spin it will be stopped and the wheel with traction gets some force. Very happy with that setup, it´s simple, it works and it holds up.
Having an IFS wagon with a good LSD in the rear I love my front auto locker, In my old Zook however the rear locker worked wonders especially with the short wheel base and the tendency to lift the front wheels when climbing, not to mention the on the spot donuts!!!
detroit style auto locker is the way to go, i have them front and rear and they're totally unnoticeable and always locked, i do have a selectable 2 and 4 wheel drive, separate from the high low, rear disconnect and sticky tires.
I feel like it’s just what different people want. Even Graham said with a good Nissan LSD you can get a front one but he likes rear better. But jock also does more rocky stuff where a front would be better
Yup.....Funny how perception vs reality(per jocko's testing) never aligns Personally I would do front locker just to pull that front through and over stuff vs trying to push it through which never seems to work well. Having front locking hubs allows you to adjust accordingly to keep the turn radius at least for the mechanical locker set ups.
In North American you will find usually Front first for climbing.. Its all about application.. Rear first seems to be an Australian thing.. Even MadMatt4WD did the same test and found, to his surprise, the "front only" more efficient then rear only..
Love the video. I would probably go with read and air locker first. I have a 4WD van that is already a beast but sometimes I do get stuck a bit. So, a locker would be awesome.
Twin ARB Air Locked in my Discovery 4 💪🏼 ideal to have both lockers in action, plus having one of the better selectable variable terrain response traction control systems is a bonus. Great video, Jocko really knows his stuff, good to see these more in depth explanation and technical videos too 👍🏻 keep up the goodness 🏴🇬🇧🏴
Thinking about getting a rear air locker for my discovery 4, what kind of terrain would you say it helps with the most? Do you think you have used the front locker enough to be worth the price? Also, how differently does terrain response behave with the lockers enabled? How often do you use just the rear, vs just the front, or both, or none at all? I appreciate your time if you do answer 🙏
Coming from across the big pond, I found this to be very enlightening and educational and...love the Aussie dialog. We Jeep over here but have the same concerns about the use of lockers. Myself, my LJ Wrangler is getting ARB air lockers installed next week as I already have the compressor and tank onboard for frequent deflation refills. Passing this on to my mates here in Georgia...keep up the great work.
Jocko, I have the same model Hilux as yours and I put an air locker in mine 12 months ago and can't be happier. I found the LSD to be very tight and having the front locker in I get to most places I need to go.
A well done and fair comparison of lockers. My personal preference is rear first, unless it's IFS or like a Patrol with a solid LSD in the back. It may be worth mentioning too that some e-lockers can temporarily unlock when you change direction e.g. you reverse a little to take another go at climbing, which can make technical driving more difficult at times. For those interested AllOffroad 4x4 Adventures TV, Filthy Motorsports and other UA-cam channels do a good job of explaining it.
Thanks mate. I originally had that in the video but decided to remove it as that refers to one particular brands design and not all e lockers do that I believe. But it’s interesting nonetheless! Thanks for your feedback, yep filthy motorsports and Alloffroad do some great vids on this too!
I went for a rear e-locker in the mighty Maximus. Purely and simply because I didn't know where I could reasonably fit an air compressor in the setup that I had. It has evolved slightly since then, but I'm sticking with the e-locker, and I'm considering putting one up front as well.
I have an auto locker in the front of my 4WD mainly due to budget, having said that I will be installing an air locker in the rear later this year. With regards to the auto locker in the front, it isn't an issue in the front when on the road, just unlock the hubs and the locker isn't even engaged. When in 4WD with the hubs locked, the locker is noisy but it's not something you don't get used to. If you shift out of 4WD, then the locker is not engaged any longer and there is no noise. The only disadvantage with an auto locker is you can't use 4WD without it being engaged whereas an e or an air locker can be disengaged. Steering is compromised a little with an auto locker but it isn't that bad which is the advantage of the auto locker over the other two.
It's certainly a "depends on your driving" type of answer. Rock crawling, a front locker comes into its own but for most people, the rear is the most useful. I've a Discovery 2 with air lockers at both ends. The rear gets more use but having both is excellent.
@@trueaussie3097 I went for a torsen lsd in the rear no maintenence required or special oils and transfers power better then a clutch style lsd and am prepping my front axle for a detroit locker
Me too. My 3.1D Trooper(old but gold) has Lokka front locker(cheapest in UK) added to stock rear LSD, part time 4WD means I can shift it on/off as required. Top job. Still has FW hubs too, so dragging nothing along.
I just completed the install of front and rear air lockers in my Isuzu VehiCross. One think I did differently is to plumb the entire air system with pneumatic switches instead of electric switches and solenoids and use a removable air or CO2 tank. I love the simplicity of a completely mechanical design.
Thanks jock, great video. I'm currently building my daily driver into a weapon, very informative. Gave me some food for thought. I've been toying with ideas, one is an auto lokka in the back, and either an air or elokka in the front, because i want to be able to turn off the front for steering
Rear locker was an absolute game changer in my first gen Tacoma. It literally just goes over or through what I point it towards. It would be an absolute beast with a front locker.
My 2010 mn glx triton came from the factory with a rear air locker. It’s been a help on a few occasions now, so I’d probably have air locker in at least the rear of another 4wd when I get one, if the budget stretches I’ll have front too
Live axle front and rear, rear air locker first. IFS with open diffs, rear locker first. Any vehicle with a strong rear LSD (and honestly, this is only Patrols), front locker first. My Ol’ Jackaroo had a strong rear LSD, so it got a front air locker. My current MQ Triton (GLX poverty pack) had no lockers. It got a rear first, then a front. Twin air (or “e”) lockers always ultimate. The early “Pony” videos with twin auto lockers and shit small road tyres, proved how dramatic an improvement lockers make. Really enjoying the way you present the tech stuff Jocko.
I'm currently building up a 80 series and I've installed a auto Lokka in the rear and an Elocker in the front, I've also fitted a part-time kit in the transfer case and installed free wheel hubs in the front.
Great video jock they guys at back very good answered a few questions for me personally thanks mate u seen be more down to earth a blokes guy out wheeling every chance not running a production company
Considering the $ spent on mods, the budget issue is really out the window. Nobody seems to think twice about fitting a front bar but they cost twice what a locker does fitted. The price of a second air locker for example is insignificant in the grand scheme of what average Aussie spends on 4wd mods.
I own a hilux and I have traction control from factory. So I have installed an autolokka in the front and it seems to get me everywhere I go. With the rear open diff, the traction control acts as a rear locker and its great. But it is intermittent and can become problematic in some situation. For my driving style it suits me best but will soon opt for an e-locker front and rear. This will probably be the cheapest way to go (being an auto-elec) labour cost installation wont be in the equation. Love your work jocko!
At 11:15 the LiveAxle is causing an issue.... Left rear wheel goes up, forcing the right rear to go down - right in front of a large rock...😢 With fully independent suspension I don't have that issue 😅
Both have their advantages. Just figure out what you want your vehicle to accomplish. I’ve had front and rear only until I got the other locker. Twin locked is always my end goal.
Thanks for the information Jocko. Great presentation. Good to hear the other guys opinions too. You've helped me make my decision on where (front or rear) and what type of locker. Thanks mate!!
Terrain is the x factor here. I'm in the Eastern US..I keep both rears digging all the time. Always running the rear locked. It's a really rare situation when you gotta unlock the rear. If money is an issue I'd say always lock rear first. Make sure that front axle can support a locker when you're ready.
I really appreciate the explanation! I thought "lockers" might be similar to positraction, or what Chevrolet called "Limited Slip Differential, but was unsure until Jocko's explanation. He a natural-born teacher! QUESTION: You talked about AIR LOCKERS... what compressor do you that use them have onboard?
Great video. I have the factory front and back elocks on my Jeep Rubicon, but have always just used both. Now I want to do some experimenting and try one set against the other to see how they compare. This was an excellent idea for a video.
Front air locker is my personal preference because I own patrols and both my patrols have really good tight rear diffs and when I am off road the lack of front traction is where I get hung up so I would chose front air locker personal as it would suit me and my driveing/vehicle. Then my next big cost would be reduction gear's before I considered locker in rear and again personal preference this choice is because it suits my driveing needs better
Where did you get those exocage bars over the wheel wells? Those are awesome! I can’t find anything like it. It’s not for a hilux- for my 3rd gen 4runner but maybe they have a hilux surf version?
such a great video, I've been binge-watching 4x4 diff videos and this is one of my favorites my takeaway: I'm so fucking lucky that my 4Runner came stock with a Rear Locker, but the full Front & Rear Locker setup is still DEFINITELY the dream. Already have my ARB Twin air compressor mounted underhood, so 99% sure I'd go ARB Air Locker in front with the factory Toyota locker in rear. Current goal - still need modestly-bigger tires + modest lift/suspension upgrade. Then, front bumper + electric winch (tho I do already carry a beastly manual come-along winch for sheer emergencies) After that, saving up for a combined front locker + regearing install, since I'm told you might as well do both at the same time to avoid opening it up twice. Again, great info all around.
I had a Hilux with a Detroit (auto) locker in the rear. It was absolutely bullet proof and I drove that thing every where for about fifteen years, it was unbreakable. The advantage of an auto locker on the rear is that it comes into play whenever it is required, even on (for example) a building site or a mud puddle where you didn't think it would be needed. Yes, to get the front up sometimes you have to bounce the front wheels up onto a step, after which you are home free. A mate had a later model Hilux and he elected to put a Lock Right (also auto) soft locker on the front. The soft locker is better on the front because it does allow for more steering ability when it has to, however if the diff was locked he had very little ability to steer in soft sand when going slow. Having said that, If you do a lot of soft sand then you might be better with a soft locker on the front because when it comes to soft sand, pulling is actually better than pushing (ploughing) the front wheels. So, rear for dirt terrain that isn't too soft, front for sand and mush. Obviously, having both is ideal if you can afford it. If you are going to get both anyway then air lockers are about the same price but if you only get one then an auto locker will be cheaper (because of the cost of the compressor and installation). I can recommend the two brands I mentioned for reliability, I don't have any experience with any of the others. The Detroit locker requires professional installation because the setup of the dog clutch is spring loaded, and it can remove fingers if you don't know what you are doing. I believe the Lock Right can be installed by anyone if you follow the instructions, but my mate got his installed too. The only stuff that caused me any real trouble was trying to get up a steep soft sand dune or hill unloaded. The Hilux is quite light on the rear end, so even with the Detroit locker it was not sufficient to plough the front wheels up a soft sand hill. It worked better with a few hundred extra kilos over the rear axle in that case.
My 2016 PX2 Ranger came with a rear e-locker. Cool, but my wife, daughter and I hit Bribie Is, Inskip Pt., D.I, Fraser Is. etc a bit so I should really permanently mount a compressor and an air tank for filling tyres and blowing sand out of the vehicle so whilst initially I wanted to go an Eaton e-locker up front, I'm leaning more towards an ARB front air locker/twin compressor package.
For a budget bush rig a welded front is a must! If you get into a tight situation its as simple as unlocking a hub. I welded the front of my old gq and loved it. Theres a good chance ill be doing it to my gu now aswell
Great video! Just to be a pedantic sod: An open diff gives you a 50/50 torque split (roughly, not taking any internal resistance into account here). If one wheel is in the air i can't take any torque, so the wheel on the ground gets the same low/zero amount of torque. A locked diff just locks the axles, so it is no longer responsible for the torque distribution ratio, that job is left to the available grip. If both wheels have the same amount of grip, 50/50 split, if one wheel is on the ground, and one wheel is in the air, that's a 100/0 split. That doesn't change any of your practical advice and conclusions mind you, I just happened to have nerded out on locking/limited slip/torsen diffs a while back.
Lockers I prefer in order: 1) Factory installed selectable lockers 2) ARB Air lockers I don't currently own a vehicle with a locker. My 2009 VW GTI had a automatic e-locker from the factory. I removed it and installed a Peloquin Torque Biasing LSD (works like a Quaiffe)
I have a Detroit in the back of my Defender 110. Absolutely love it. Going to put an air locker in the front soon too. I have learned to drive around the day to day issues with the Detroit and don't really even notice it any more on the road. Would I like an air locker in the rear? Absolutely would. But on my budget the Detroit was the best option. It has made me lazy in my line choices though... The other thing it has done is make me break my 4x4 less as I don't need to be so hard on the power over everything. Not sure I'd like a Detroit in a short wheel base though. Be a bit harder to steer and more noticeable when driving on the road , especially in the rain on wet tar
I had a lokka front diff lock installed and I was playing around with my new free wheel hubs later that night while it was parked up in the garage. Forgot to turn them off. Next day the Mrs rings me from the side of the road and says the 4wd is making strange noises... she drove it about 10km on the tarmac with the front locker activated before a cv joint broke lol. Anyway, lesson learned. The front diff lock was awesome off road. Saved my 4wd once when I sank into a dam trying to retrieve my jetski on the trailer in the middle of know where.
Got an E locker in front of my GQ, & shimmed LSD in the rear. Works great. I tow trailers a far bit so the lsd to me is better then having a rear locker
Very good informative video. Thanks joko. I put an auto lokka in first up the front and then 12months later an E lokka in the rear. Its in an older ifs hilux, and both lokkas were needed as flex is very poor. Its a little mountain goat now.. So i would strongly suggest for ifs rigs get both..
Thanks 4wd 24/7 crew, awesome video! Put a mechanical locker in the rear of Discovery about 2 months ago as its a full time 4wd and couldn't be happier! By far the best mod I've done to my car giving so much more traction and control off road. Excellent for price.
In the cars I used with e-lockers I've found they can take a while to lock in. G-wagons have front, centre and rear e-lockers but they can take ages to lock and unlock and it can be fairly jerky when they do. I'm guessing air would be a lot quicker.
Steering... A front locker only affects steering on a high traction surface. Mine can be switched independently as Jocko’s can. On a low traction surface where there is a lot of wheel slip, a front locker helps. Point the front wheels where you want to go and locked front wheels pull where they’re pointing. Rear locked can only push straight and with both engaged, rear can sometimes oppose the front in corners. Front locked, rear unlocked in a turn on low traction surface allows the open rear differential action to assist the front around a corner. Ultimately, being able to independently select front or rear or both is the best arrangement for driver selectable lockers.
@@mondo_stunts27 oh the us oof. Maybe 80 series swap? I don’t know how hard that would be but it would’ve been done. My parents have a 105 and the chassis is extremely similar to an 80. If not just go for a sas. I’ve seen people sassing tacomas, so you could just grab an 80 series front axel and use that. Its definitely possible.
Rear Locker ARB is what i fited first on my JKU. 2 reasons 1 offroading...the other is Snow roads here in Austria when its just not needed for 4wd but you dont want to one leg spin off of every light
jock's mechanical knowledge is fantastic. a great addition to the show.
Jocko is by far my favourite presenter, seems so genuine and down to Earth. Not to rag on the other boys too much, but they should dial back the TV act they put on.
I have
Totally agree. Love the group but damn jocko knows his stuff
I really enjoyed shuno when he had the old dirty 30 just was a really build it drive it something anyone could do
More attainable I’m trying to say
Graham - "I've had air lockers in shorty for 15 years and never had any problems..." -- I've got some old 4WD Action Dvd's that say different. ;)
Yeah, makes it evident that the channel is more about selling stuff than giving actual useful advice.
@@NBM397 They are OGs in the 4wd youtube game and helped run a magazine and were making DVD's long before them. give them some credit and cut them a break. They gotta make a living too. If they dont like something, they'll tell it like it is.
@@intimatespearfisher it means they're one of the originals
@@NBM397or just maybe that he hyperbolized like all humans do on a day to day basis.
@@KarstRats I can't relate because I have literally never exaggerated once in my entire life.
few minutes into this and loving how Jock explains things. Top guy. 👍
Thanks mate!
Yep , the knowledge this bloke can share is privileged to us..
Jock is a great addition to the team! So much knowledge and great presenting skills 🤙🏽
For sure my faith in 4wd 24/7 (to me it will always be 4wd Action!) is restored...finaly a review not based on sponsorships and brand royalties! Well done Jock, when brands aren't shoved down our throats, the fans are raving and can't wait for next episode...even the ol boys took a break from the sales and spoke their minds even if they disagreed...best episode for the last 6 months at least!
I've never understood diffs quite like I do right now. Jock, you're a winner.
I have an auto-lokka in the front of my ZD30 D22 navara with manual locking hubs, and i can say that they are damn amazing. I have definitely noticed the stiffer steering when on higher traction surfaces, and in most cases, just backing off the power a bit helps immensely. You can even leave the hubs in and engage 2HI, and barely make a difference to steering, but on smooth surfaces you can sometimes hear them clicking. In saying that, they are mind blowing on soft sand, you can feel the vehicle clawing its way through instead of being pushed. Super easy to install.
I think the most amazing thing though is with descents. With the lokka automatically engaged, you get both wheels braking forces even if one wheel is in the air, and descents are incredible more controlled. Without the lokka, if you lose traction on one front wheel it will more then likely spin faster as its being forced to spin via the transfer case, and the other wheel will lock up, causing a slide, as there is nothing actually forcing it to spin anymore, because the other side is in the air. That just doesn't happen with the front locker, and the control while on a gravel hill suprised the hell out of me.
So yes definitely a vote for the autolokka. Yes, occasionally you will get the stiffer steering, and probably the most inconvenient time will be when you are about to go around a corner, but if you let your foot off, its fine.
As for front/rear, scientificly, its a hard choice. I mean, LSDs are already in rears, so a locker would also help more. But in saying that, the front locker on an IFS vehicle is a no brainer. With a rear LSD already helping, the front locker works well with IFS's lack of traction.
The way i think of it is this: going up hill, most of the power and center of gravity would be over the rear wheels, so those two wheels will more then likely ALWAYS be on the ground. Like jocko said, once you have one of the front wheels are in the air, you now have a 2wd vehicle. A front locker will at least give you a 3wd vehicle. A rear locker would not. You see this in never every clip here in this video, its usually one of the front wheels in the air. Hell its probably 90 percent of the time, you have a front wheel in the air. Once a front wheel is in the air, the entire front becomes useless.
3wd vs 2wd.
In the case of ute with more weight on the front due to the engine, and an empty tray, your two front wheels will spend more time on the ground, and with the rear LSD already helping, giving you a rough "2.5wd" a front locker would go back to give you 3.5wd. That, and with the front locker helping prevent one wheel from spinning wildly, and then when hitting the ground it causes the CVs to snap, you simply dont have that issue anymore, and there is no need to "Send" it as hard, also make the case for a front locker first. I also see a lot more failed front diffs in utes all for the same reason. Going up a hill, front wheels go up in the air, come back down, and pieces of money fall out of the diff.
So yes. i work on the principle - whatever wheels you see spin the most up in the air, they are the ones you should put a locker onto. See a wheel spinnin? lock it up!
Just about to fit one to my 2015 Pajero. IFS like u said will make huge difference
Love watching that diesel Hilux just nearly idle up obstacles like that! Hard core off road vehicles and diesels are almost not even in the same worlds here in America, and that low-end torque looks amazing!
Love Graham’s comment you push a wheel barrow you don’t pull it. I would love to see him push a full wheel barrow up a step. If you get to a step you pull it up. Front locker is the way to go and just weld it.
just weld it?????
why do you need to weld a locker? lol
@@MrTonaluv if you know someone that can weld depending on what they charge you, you only need to replace the oil. Dont do it if it doesnt have free wheeling hubs or converable auto hubs
Clearly Graham has never worked in a job involving a wheelbarrow
@@bradhaines1905 welding an open diff turning it into a permanently locked diff is crazy on the front. How do you steer? It will wind up badly on the bitumen!
Hands down the best video on lockers I have ever found! Thank you man!
Thank you mate.Jock is the best presenter with no over the top gestures and also doesnt try to come across as this galaxies 4x4 guru.
Jock is such a great dude to do these parts of the show! We love ya jock.
Also great getting quick opinions at the end from different cars. Great idea
Awesome, been driving four wheel drives for 34 years. First time I have had a proper grasp on lockers.
Hey Graham! Load a wheel barrow and try pushing it up a step. Now turn around and try pulling it. 😁
That is a great comparison.
For a street/trail rig, I really like the combo of an aggressive limited slip e.g. worm gear type TrueTrack for the rear and an air locker for the front. Helps keep costs down while still being capable and streetable. I'm with Graham - auto lockers are just not my thing anymore. Been there, done that.
I've heard of this setup elsewhere, too. Why not torsen in the front,
why not auto lockers
@@annabanna666 They are no good on hard and paved roads.
@@BuildingByFaith For one thing, it isn't selectable on and off. It's easy to be in a situation where you need to turn and can't with the front locked.
I had a Lock-Right automatic locking differential in my 93 2wd Toyota pickup, it was the best modification I ever made to any vehicle I ever owned!
I’d like to see testing in different terrain.. soft sand in particular...
Exactly. How does each locker perform on the arctic tundra?
I find my lockers pretty useless in sand. I just seem to bury myself faster.
Agreed we have more sloppy mud than rocky hill climbs where I am
I find the opposite 🤔@@volvogt21
@@terrydactyl7708 that's interesting. Do you do your challenging sand driving in high or low range? A patrol mate I crossed the Simpson desert. He did most of it in low. Yet my t/d landcruiser was far happier in high. Low just dug holes and gave me no momentum.
Thanks for the very informative rundown of front/rear lockers Jocko. Now I know what I need. Greetings from Papua New Guinea mate! Keep those wonderful content flowing, we love em to pieces. Stay Safe! Cheers!
Jocko that hilux of yours is a awesome rig 👍👍
Good one Jacko 👍 For my 80, I'm planning to put a front locker first. With the type of driving I do, if I only fit a rear locker, this can increase more front wheel lifts and potentially cause a flip (torque front wheel lifts) as it pushes the vehicle up obstacles. Front lockers prevents this as it pulls the vehicle up and over obstacles. But will eventually fit both.
That's a very good point, thank you. You alone helped me decide which to do 1st
Keep in mind that you will lose steering ability with a front selectable lock. Especially so when weight has transferred onto front axle, ie driving down a rutted step. Front locker great at holding back vehicle on steep, loose downhills, at the expensive of steering.
When going up hill the weight shifts to the back rear locker will do more good more often. I would get rear first then front.
I am first time watcher and if your still around i hope cause its been 2 years since this video i want to tell you thank you so much! I have been wanting to find out about the different locking situations and you did it great and humbly with no cockyness and i truly preciate that buddy.
I have two 4x4s. Both from factory have limited slip rears and full time lock in front. Both are old 4x4s but great trucks.
So when i fill like i dont need both lockers in front i just put them back in 2x4 and then i have limited slip rear and single tire pull front only difference in mine and yalls is yall have a real nice fancy switch that would be so convenient and i have a manual shifter i have to pull but it works.
One of mine is a w 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 5.2 motor 5 speed manual looks brand new. Single cab.
The other 1988 GMC ext cab K2500 with 1992 Chevy Tahoe 350 motor and a 4 speed Chevy Bulldog manual transmission. Great trucks. 88 dont look pretty but drive train is great. But it takes 40 acres to turn it around thats the only fall back with it.
But i realy preciate your help but also not just talk but you did a out on trail illustration and so we cant ask for anything more than that. By what you showed and taught me i believe im good but i am always eager to learn and i sure got a whole lot to learn.
Take care buddy and thanks again!
Love this comparison great job jockko
"Jocko's Toolbox" should be a regular segment. Honestly Jocko the enthusiasm you show when you are explaining the technical aspects of things is amazing! I have a 2011 Amarok equipped with a factory electric rear locker, if I was looking towards getting a front locker down the track, would it be worth converting the rear to an air locker if I was going to put an air locker(including compressor and all other needed bits) in the front? Can E locker rear and Air locker front work together or would it be a smarter option to have them both the same? Cheers
Got an TD5 and I put ann Ashcroft ATB Limited SLip Differential in both axels. It´s more of an overlander and the fact that it always provides best traction even on dirt roads was important for me. Plus the TD5 got a traction control, so even when one wheel should spin it will be stopped and the wheel with traction gets some force. Very happy with that setup, it´s simple, it works and it holds up.
Awesome vid jocko I love how in depth your are about the mechanics of 4wds and can give Shauno a run for his money lol
The knowlage this group supplies is unreal and soo helpful
Having an IFS wagon with a good LSD in the rear I love my front auto locker, In my old Zook however the rear locker worked wonders especially with the short wheel base and the tendency to lift the front wheels when climbing, not to mention the on the spot donuts!!!
detroit style auto locker is the way to go, i have them front and rear and they're totally unnoticeable and always locked, i do have a selectable 2 and 4 wheel drive, separate from the high low, rear disconnect and sticky tires.
Love how every single person but one said rear locker going against what jocko found
I feel like it’s just what different people want. Even Graham said with a good Nissan LSD you can get a front one but he likes rear better. But jock also does more rocky stuff where a front would be better
You also notice that their cars are heavier than his hilux
Yup.....Funny how perception vs reality(per jocko's testing) never aligns
Personally I would do front locker just to pull that front through and over stuff vs trying to push it through which never seems to work well. Having front locking hubs allows you to adjust accordingly to keep the turn radius at least for the mechanical locker set ups.
In North American you will find usually Front first for climbing.. Its all about application.. Rear first seems to be an Australian thing.. Even MadMatt4WD did the same test and found, to his surprise, the "front only" more efficient then rear only..
@@jefftenhave8038 also found it alot safer due to the lean the rear can cause
I've seen loads of videos on diffs, a million diagrams, this was one of the best demos I've seen,
Love the video. I would probably go with read and air locker first. I have a 4WD van that is already a beast but sometimes I do get stuck a bit.
So, a locker would be awesome.
This video is amazing, it’s exactly what I’ve been looking for, and I appreciate that you considered IFS vehicles
Twin ARB Air Locked in my Discovery 4 💪🏼 ideal to have both lockers in action, plus having one of the better selectable variable terrain response traction control systems is a bonus.
Great video, Jocko really knows his stuff, good to see these more in depth explanation and technical videos too 👍🏻 keep up the goodness
🏴🇬🇧🏴
Thanks mate! Your disco sounds very capable
@@jocko4wd281 one day I’ll ship it down under and see what it’ll do on some proper tough stuff 🤞🏻
Thinking about getting a rear air locker for my discovery 4, what kind of terrain would you say it helps with the most? Do you think you have used the front locker enough to be worth the price? Also, how differently does terrain response behave with the lockers enabled? How often do you use just the rear, vs just the front, or both, or none at all? I appreciate your time if you do answer 🙏
Jocko is bringing something excellent to this channel. Hope to have more videos like this.
Coming from across the big pond, I found this to be very enlightening and educational and...love the Aussie dialog. We Jeep over here but have the same concerns about the use of lockers. Myself, my LJ Wrangler is getting ARB air lockers installed next week as I already have the compressor and tank onboard for frequent deflation refills. Passing this on to my mates here in Georgia...keep up the great work.
I can't see any reason to use a front locker without the rear engaged. Other than for test purposes.
Rocket. Been missing the right boot monster, Would be great to see him back on the track with Shawn and Gram.
I have a front weldy in mine and it does so much better then all open!! nice video guys!
Jocko, I have the same model Hilux as yours and I put an air locker in mine 12 months ago and can't be happier. I found the LSD to be very tight and having the front locker in I get to most places I need to go.
A well done and fair comparison of lockers. My personal preference is rear first, unless it's IFS or like a Patrol with a solid LSD in the back.
It may be worth mentioning too that some e-lockers can temporarily unlock when you change direction e.g. you reverse a little to take another go at climbing, which can make technical driving more difficult at times. For those interested AllOffroad 4x4 Adventures TV, Filthy Motorsports and other UA-cam channels do a good job of explaining it.
Thanks mate.
I originally had that in the video but decided to remove it as that refers to one particular brands design and not all e lockers do that I believe. But it’s interesting nonetheless!
Thanks for your feedback, yep filthy motorsports and Alloffroad do some great vids on this too!
Excellent topic and very well presented by Jocko and co. Hope you discuss about suspensions and tire sizes too.
I went for a rear e-locker in the mighty Maximus. Purely and simply because I didn't know where I could reasonably fit an air compressor in the setup that I had. It has evolved slightly since then, but I'm sticking with the e-locker, and I'm considering putting one up front as well.
I have an auto locker in the front of my 4WD mainly due to budget, having said that I will be installing an air locker in the rear later this year. With regards to the auto locker in the front, it isn't an issue in the front when on the road, just unlock the hubs and the locker isn't even engaged. When in 4WD with the hubs locked, the locker is noisy but it's not something you don't get used to. If you shift out of 4WD, then the locker is not engaged any longer and there is no noise. The only disadvantage with an auto locker is you can't use 4WD without it being engaged whereas an e or an air locker can be disengaged. Steering is compromised a little with an auto locker but it isn't that bad which is the advantage of the auto locker over the other two.
It's certainly a "depends on your driving" type of answer. Rock crawling, a front locker comes into its own but for most people, the rear is the most useful.
I've a Discovery 2 with air lockers at both ends. The rear gets more use but having both is excellent.
I find this stuff with Jock so much more informative Thanks buddy. I always learn something from you.
Nice work Jock, comprehensive overview. Legend.
My personal perfect setup: LSD in the rear and ARB airlocker in the front. This will get you everywhere...
I am in process of doing a very similar setup
I’ve got the same set up in my patrol shimmed the lsd so it’s tight as and pro locker in the front
@@trueaussie3097 I went for a torsen lsd in the rear no maintenence required or special oils and transfers power better then a clutch style lsd and am prepping my front axle for a detroit locker
Me too. My 3.1D Trooper(old but gold) has Lokka front locker(cheapest in UK) added to stock rear LSD, part time 4WD means I can shift it on/off as required. Top job. Still has FW hubs too, so dragging nothing along.
I'll be running spartan in the rear and an arb up front!
I just completed the install of front and rear air lockers in my Isuzu VehiCross. One think I did differently is to plumb the entire air system with pneumatic switches instead of electric switches and solenoids and use a removable air or CO2 tank. I love the simplicity of a completely mechanical design.
Thanks jock, great video. I'm currently building my daily driver into a weapon, very informative. Gave me some food for thought.
I've been toying with ideas, one is an auto lokka in the back, and either an air or elokka in the front, because i want to be able to turn off the front for steering
Rear locker was an absolute game changer in my first gen Tacoma. It literally just goes over or through what I point it towards. It would be an absolute beast with a front locker.
Outstanding work Jocko.
I love this channel guys....you are going to grow to a bigger platform and take 4wd to the next level people....🔥🔥🔥🔥💯💯💯💯
My 2010 mn glx triton came from the factory with a rear air locker. It’s been a help on a few occasions now, so I’d probably have air locker in at least the rear of another 4wd when I get one, if the budget stretches I’ll have front too
The best show on UA-cam
Love from Turkey 🇹🇷
Live axle front and rear, rear air locker first. IFS with open diffs, rear locker first. Any vehicle with a strong rear LSD (and honestly, this is only Patrols), front locker first. My Ol’ Jackaroo had a strong rear LSD, so it got a front air locker. My current MQ Triton (GLX poverty pack) had no lockers. It got a rear first, then a front. Twin air (or “e”) lockers always ultimate. The early “Pony” videos with twin auto lockers and shit small road tyres, proved how dramatic an improvement lockers make. Really enjoying the way you present the tech stuff Jocko.
I'm currently building up a 80 series and I've installed a auto Lokka in the rear and an Elocker in the front, I've also fitted a part-time kit in the transfer case and installed free wheel hubs in the front.
Best video ever!! Thank you on explaining everything there is to know on the front and rear lockers.
Great video jock they guys at back very good answered a few questions for me personally thanks mate u seen be more down to earth a blokes guy out wheeling every chance not running a production company
Considering the $ spent on mods, the budget issue is really out the window. Nobody seems to think twice about fitting a front bar but they cost twice what a locker does fitted. The price of a second air locker for example is insignificant in the grand scheme of what average Aussie spends on 4wd mods.
I own a hilux and I have traction control from factory.
So I have installed an autolokka in the front and it seems to get me everywhere I go. With the rear open diff, the traction control acts as a rear locker and its great. But it is intermittent and can become problematic in some situation.
For my driving style it suits me best but will soon opt for an e-locker front and rear. This will probably be the cheapest way to go (being an auto-elec) labour cost installation wont be in the equation.
Love your work jocko!
At 11:15 the LiveAxle is causing an issue.... Left rear wheel goes up, forcing the right rear to go down - right in front of a large rock...😢 With fully independent suspension I don't have that issue 😅
Both have their advantages. Just figure out what you want your vehicle to accomplish. I’ve had front and rear only until I got the other locker. Twin locked is always my end goal.
I've got a front OX cable locker and an auto rear locker, love my setup.
Thanks for the information Jocko. Great presentation. Good to hear the other guys opinions too.
You've helped me make my decision on where (front or rear) and what type of locker. Thanks mate!!
Terrain is the x factor here. I'm in the Eastern US..I keep both rears digging all the time. Always running the rear locked. It's a really rare situation when you gotta unlock the rear. If money is an issue I'd say always lock rear first. Make sure that front axle can support a locker when you're ready.
I really appreciate the explanation! I thought "lockers" might be similar to positraction, or what Chevrolet called "Limited Slip Differential, but was unsure until Jocko's explanation. He a natural-born teacher!
QUESTION: You talked about AIR LOCKERS... what compressor do you that use them have onboard?
Front lockers does me well. Once overcome the obstacle lil throttle will keep you going
Great video. I have the factory front and back elocks on my Jeep Rubicon, but have always just used both. Now I want to do some experimenting and try one set against the other to see how they compare. This was an excellent idea for a video.
Front air locker is my personal preference because I own patrols and both my patrols have really good tight rear diffs and when I am off road the lack of front traction is where I get hung up so I would chose front air locker personal as it would suit me and my driveing/vehicle. Then my next big cost would be reduction gear's before I considered locker in rear and again personal preference this choice is because it suits my driveing needs better
Jocko don’t get trapped Lad make your own channel you’re the only reason we watch anymore!
Wouldnt say trapped, hes probably absolutely loving making videos for these guys and more then likely prefers it
Where did you get those exocage bars over the wheel wells? Those are awesome! I can’t find anything like it. It’s not for a hilux- for my 3rd gen 4runner but maybe they have a hilux surf version?
This just gave me the info I need to pick the locker for my 4wd, cheers blokes 🤙
I find the argument for the front makes the most sense
such a great video, I've been binge-watching 4x4 diff videos and this is one of my favorites
my takeaway: I'm so fucking lucky that my 4Runner came stock with a Rear Locker, but the full Front & Rear Locker setup is still DEFINITELY the dream.
Already have my ARB Twin air compressor mounted underhood, so 99% sure I'd go ARB Air Locker in front with the factory Toyota locker in rear.
Current goal - still need modestly-bigger tires + modest lift/suspension upgrade.
Then, front bumper + electric winch (tho I do already carry a beastly manual come-along winch for sheer emergencies)
After that, saving up for a combined front locker + regearing install, since I'm told you might as well do both at the same time to avoid opening it up twice.
Again, great info all around.
Very comprehensive info indeed-good job man.
I like an auto locker in the rear with a selectable locker up front. I always do the rear first.
this is so helpful, understanding how diff. lock works
I had a Hilux with a Detroit (auto) locker in the rear. It was absolutely bullet proof and I drove that thing every where for about fifteen years, it was unbreakable. The advantage of an auto locker on the rear is that it comes into play whenever it is required, even on (for example) a building site or a mud puddle where you didn't think it would be needed. Yes, to get the front up sometimes you have to bounce the front wheels up onto a step, after which you are home free.
A mate had a later model Hilux and he elected to put a Lock Right (also auto) soft locker on the front. The soft locker is better on the front because it does allow for more steering ability when it has to, however if the diff was locked he had very little ability to steer in soft sand when going slow.
Having said that, If you do a lot of soft sand then you might be better with a soft locker on the front because when it comes to soft sand, pulling is actually better than pushing (ploughing) the front wheels.
So, rear for dirt terrain that isn't too soft, front for sand and mush. Obviously, having both is ideal if you can afford it. If you are going to get both anyway then air lockers are about the same price but if you only get one then an auto locker will be cheaper (because of the cost of the compressor and installation).
I can recommend the two brands I mentioned for reliability, I don't have any experience with any of the others. The Detroit locker requires professional installation because the setup of the dog clutch is spring loaded, and it can remove fingers if you don't know what you are doing. I believe the Lock Right can be installed by anyone if you follow the instructions, but my mate got his installed too.
The only stuff that caused me any real trouble was trying to get up a steep soft sand dune or hill unloaded. The Hilux is quite light on the rear end, so even with the Detroit locker it was not sufficient to plough the front wheels up a soft sand hill. It worked better with a few hundred extra kilos over the rear axle in that case.
My 2016 PX2 Ranger came with a rear e-locker. Cool, but my wife, daughter and I hit Bribie Is, Inskip Pt., D.I, Fraser Is. etc a bit so I should really permanently mount a compressor and an air tank for filling tyres and blowing sand out of the vehicle so whilst initially I wanted to go an Eaton e-locker up front, I'm leaning more towards an ARB front air locker/twin compressor package.
Been running a welded front with manual hubs for 2 years and I love it. Cost me nothing
I wanted to do a weldy for a while, just sometimes feel its abit dodgy😂
Allways wanted to know if that worked now I know I guess 😂
For a budget bush rig a welded front is a must! If you get into a tight situation its as simple as unlocking a hub. I welded the front of my old gq and loved it. Theres a good chance ill be doing it to my gu now aswell
Great video! Just to be a pedantic sod: An open diff gives you a 50/50 torque split (roughly, not taking any internal resistance into account here). If one wheel is in the air i can't take any torque, so the wheel on the ground gets the same low/zero amount of torque. A locked diff just locks the axles, so it is no longer responsible for the torque distribution ratio, that job is left to the available grip. If both wheels have the same amount of grip, 50/50 split, if one wheel is on the ground, and one wheel is in the air, that's a 100/0 split.
That doesn't change any of your practical advice and conclusions mind you, I just happened to have nerded out on locking/limited slip/torsen diffs a while back.
twin locked! used to prefer the rear but having had a front I know I like the front locker more now. Get both, best of both worlds.
Lockers I prefer in order:
1) Factory installed selectable lockers
2) ARB Air lockers
I don't currently own a vehicle with a locker. My 2009 VW GTI had a automatic e-locker from the factory. I removed it and installed a Peloquin Torque Biasing LSD (works like a Quaiffe)
I have a Detroit in the back of my Defender 110. Absolutely love it.
Going to put an air locker in the front soon too.
I have learned to drive around the day to day issues with the Detroit and don't really even notice it any more on the road.
Would I like an air locker in the rear? Absolutely would. But on my budget the Detroit was the best option. It has made me lazy in my line choices though...
The other thing it has done is make me break my 4x4 less as I don't need to be so hard on the power over everything.
Not sure I'd like a Detroit in a short wheel base though. Be a bit harder to steer and more noticeable when driving on the road , especially in the rain on wet tar
Thank you, that was probably the best vid on lockers I've seen. "new subscriber"...
twin air a must especially if you do most of your driving solo as i do. do 1 and save for the other as quick as possible and keep tracking
When are we going to see Rocket Rod again?
I had a lokka front diff lock installed and I was playing around with my new free wheel hubs later that night while it was parked up in the garage. Forgot to turn them off. Next day the Mrs rings me from the side of the road and says the 4wd is making strange noises... she drove it about 10km on the tarmac with the front locker activated before a cv joint broke lol.
Anyway, lesson learned. The front diff lock was awesome off road. Saved my 4wd once when I sank into a dam trying to retrieve my jetski on the trailer in the middle of know where.
This is why I love my FJ cruiser! A-Track!! + Rear locker from factory. I am surprised they did not mention offroad traction control systems.
Got an E locker in front of my GQ, & shimmed LSD in the rear. Works great. I tow trailers a far bit so the lsd to me is better then having a rear locker
Very good informative video. Thanks joko. I put an auto lokka in first up the front and then 12months later an E lokka in the rear. Its in an older ifs hilux, and both lokkas were needed as flex is very poor. Its a little mountain goat now.. So i would strongly suggest for ifs rigs get both..
Hi jock, thanks you have talked me in getting a locker in the back as l don't do the large rock climbing but some rough steep country, cheers.
Absolutely air locker actuator for both, front and rear...👍
Thanks 4wd 24/7 crew, awesome video! Put a mechanical locker in the rear of Discovery about 2 months ago as its a full time 4wd and couldn't be happier! By far the best mod I've done to my car giving so much more traction and control off road. Excellent for price.
Glad to hear mate! Go the disco
In the cars I used with e-lockers I've found they can take a while to lock in. G-wagons have front, centre and rear e-lockers but they can take ages to lock and unlock and it can be fairly jerky when they do. I'm guessing air would be a lot quicker.
Steering... A front locker only affects steering on a high traction surface. Mine can be switched independently as Jocko’s can. On a low traction surface where there is a lot of wheel slip, a front locker helps. Point the front wheels where you want to go and locked front wheels pull where they’re pointing. Rear locked can only push straight and with both engaged, rear can sometimes oppose the front in corners. Front locked, rear unlocked in a turn on low traction surface allows the open rear differential action to assist the front around a corner. Ultimately, being able to independently select front or rear or both is the best arrangement for driver selectable lockers.
Solid locker in the rear like OX or ARB Air and Torsen type in the front to save breaking U joints and gears.
Going rear air locker in the 2000 100 series. Idk if the front diff and cv’s can take the locker. Plus Toyota A trac kinda works
Chassis swap to 105.
@@themindboggler8055 I wish, idk if I could get one in the U.S.
@@mondo_stunts27 oh the us oof. Maybe 80 series swap? I don’t know how hard that would be but it would’ve been done. My parents have a 105 and the chassis is extremely similar to an 80. If not just go for a sas. I’ve seen people sassing tacomas, so you could just grab an 80 series front axel and use that. Its definitely possible.
Rear Locker ARB is what i fited first on my JKU. 2 reasons 1 offroading...the other is Snow roads here in Austria when its just not needed for 4wd but you dont want to one leg spin off of every light
Love it. Great advice. Put it in the rear first.