How to Find an Air Leak in an ARB System
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- Опубліковано 13 кві 2021
- This video shows you how to troubleshoot and find an air leak in your ARB system from compressor to locker.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023 - Навчання та стиль
Best diff\gear videos I've found.
Thanks for all you show us.
Another great informative video on arb lockers. Thank you. Keep it going!
Good video. Mine came defective out of the box with the same problem. I didn't want to wait around for a new part, so I just soldered it. Has worked fine so far.
Great vid bro - thanks
Have a to me new jeep 08JK. Your trouble shooting video was suoer helpful if figuring out why my locker was not working.
Sadly the copper tube was snagged by the ring gear and will have to replace the seal as well.
That sucks. That is why it is so important to take the time necessary to make sure it is set up correctly!
Thanks! You helped me find the leak. Got a bigger question: would this leak at the rear diff cause the breather tube to spit oil out when it gets hot?
It will spit oil if it's overfilled.
Awesome video. Have you ever had issues with the arb compressor spitting gear oil? This started happening recently on my disco that had arb lockers installed last year.
Yes, you need to purge the airlines every couple of seasons. Disconnect the plastic line from the bullhead fitting on the outside of the housing and then run your compressor for a bit. It'll blow all the oil out. Very common.
@@TheBFHGarage great thank you for the feedback! I was worried something was wrong.
I know this video is from two years ago, but did you consider heating up the O ring housing enough to release the braze or silver solder used to hold the copper line in and then just replace the copper line and re braze or silver solder it? Another way would be to cut the copper line off flush and drill it out and then install new copper line. I have to reseal my arb in my TJ as soon as I get the rest of my parts, I think my O rings are leaking but the copper tube could be suspect. My axles are Currie high pinion 9 inch and they are old design ARB's made around 2000-2001 and they have the O ring housing behind the carrier bearing which means carrier bearing has to be removed to service it. The new model 9 inch has the housing like yours on the outside of the carrier bearing. I bought a special carrier bearing puller to remove the carrier bearings because there is no room to use a puller or bearing splitter. Like you, I just installed new ring and pinion, so it is a pain to have to take everything apart again to stop an air leak. I tested my locker before I reinstalled it and a little air was leaking from the o rings, but it wasn't that bad, smelling oil in the passenger compartment brings up old memories of driving around in my dad's 59 willy's pickup, I always smelled gear oil, LOL.
Yes. I tried soldering but had no luck with it holding together. Brazing is the way to go. I use this piece now when setting up gears with an ARB. Then I don't have to worry about the copper line being in the way and only have to deal with it at final setup.
Silversolder is what I was refering to, it is what is mostly used to join copper tubing in HVAC systems and is more like brazing, it uses flux and the brand I am used to is Silvaloy. I think it flows better than brass for air tight connections that won't leak.@@TheBFHGarage
My line is leaking into the rear diff, I’m hoping it’s right at where the line comes out of the housing. If that’s the case I hope the last guy left extra line like you did so I can try and make a fix. One question when you put your cover back on do you use a gasket or just use sealant when you install the diff cover? By the way I have a 04 Rubicon with Dana 44’s front n rear.
I just read below, to seal the diff you use lube locker gasket!
What are you using to reseal your diff cover? Lube locker gasket?
Yes! Love those things. I absolutely hate RTV.
I have a 19 tacoma. Rear locker doesnt engage and leaks from the diff breather. When I press down on the breather I hear what sounds like the air locker engaging. Just had it installed with a rear gear last year and only used it a couple times before the leak. Any idea whats going on? I appreciate your opinion.
It can be leaking from a few different spots. Best thing to do is remove the rear diff cover and activate the ARB to see if you can pinpoint it. If they didn't bend the copper tube far enough out of the way then it could have worn a hole in it. If they didn't install the seal housing carefully, the could have torn an O ring. Usually an internal leak has to do with the seal housing.
how is it 2 years down
my arb lockers have leaked since ive had them and the local arb dealer cant work out whats wrong.
That's very unfortunate. I promise you it's not the ARB's fault.
Couldn't you just clean it up and braze it (not solder) it with a torch and brazing rod to repair it?
Absolutely you could if you have the tools and skill to braze👍
I have only used my locker a few times and the line came loose from the locker
Then it wasn't installed properly.
@TheBFHGarage the copper line wasn't even in the seal housing when i inspected it. It was a defective brazing job. Locker was installed properly AND ONLY BEEN 2 years since i installed it. I am so freaking tired of having to replace parts that are defective from factory. Its been happening a LOT.
@@redrustyhill2 I thought you meant the plastic line separated from the bulkhead fitting...
Could you not just braze it back to the Seal? I have the same issue. What brazing material would you use? My copper tubing doesn’t look copper it is completely gray?
@@wpshelton brazing is exactly how it's done but not everybody can braze and trying to find somebody to do a small job like that isn't easy.
Could you not have had it re-brazed to seal it up?
Yes if you can find someone to do it or you aren't in a hurry.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks. Buying a used one and going to double check everything before install. Hoping not to have to throw any more money at it than necessary.
Thats what I was thinking. I would of just rebrazed it.
The seals are the weak link. Don’t know why anybody would put airlocker on their rig.
Because they are strong. The seal isn't a "weak link", it's a wear item. If you wheel a lot then you should be in your differential more than most anyway. Check them. Replace as needed. It's not a big deal at all. 🙄
@@TheBFHGarage I’ve had Detroits ten years since the day I put them in. I don’t like the idea of changing seals every year. Seen too many ARBs not work on the trail
@@joelwolfe this is nonsense lol. I've had my ARB's for a dozen years and had to change the seals once, not every year. It's like everything else, you find one bad experience and apply it to all. No bueno.
Go to a E-Locker!
No thanks!
Just for future reference, you can heat that enough to remove the old line and then solder a new line in. Take it to any plumber who does copper solder
Needs to be brazed, not soldered.
@TheBFHGarage My uncle did mine with a map gas torch 2 years ago, and it's still working . He's a veteran plumber, lol. However, it's just something worth knowing. You could still fix your old one for a spare if you have it or good knowledge for the next. I just found your channel, and it's one of my favorites already. We all run rubicon Jeeps, and right now, I'm installing arb front and back in my Ram 2500 Cummins as a rescue rig.
This is a GREAT REASON to go with
E-LOCKERS👍
No it isn't.
Agree, too fragile. Seen lots of them fail. You can't breath hard on them without a failure, poor design but I bet ARB loves it.