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Harbor Freight 100 Watt Solar Panel Comparison
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- Опубліковано 1 вер 2021
- I wanted to give a comparison of the Harbor Freight, older Amorphous 100 watt solar kit, and the new 100 watt monocrystalline solar panel, using both a PWM charge controller and a MPPT charge controller.
The location was in humid, Northeast TN during the first week of September. It was around 5:30 in the afternoon so the sun was starting to get lower in the sky.
Here is a the link to the follow-up video where I compared the panels under cloudy conditions.
• Cloudy Day Follow-up t...
Those new HF monos seem to be worth every penny. Renogy (a very reputable solar entity) also has an awesome deal on a 100watt mono bundle kit with charge controller for around $115
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Back in the day the Harbor Freight four panel kit was their first attempt and was a good, cheap idea for anyone who wanted to learn how it all works. Today, H.F.’s products have improved not surprisingly, but that doesn’t mean their older items are not good anymore. If you’re new to solar power, the kit is a good place to start, it has everything you need in one box (excluding battery) to get started, but if you need something that is expandable, I would recommend the single panel option and a powerful controller that can grow as your system increases with additional panels and batteries.
Thank you for this! I was worried I wouldn’t find a comparison of these 2 panels when I searched, and you provided just the information I was looking for
Thanks this really helped me out with making my decision I went to harbor freight last night and they had the older panel kits that you have one was on clearance for a hundred bucks someone returned it without the charger in it but I own a charger already but after watching this video im going to buy the monocrystalline panel it cost about the same as the other panel thanks for taking the time and posting the video much appreciated
Thank you. I recently bought a kit and a couple more panels during the annual sale, and this is helpful in setting expectations.
Thank you for this comparison video , you provided me with the exact information that I was looking for, very well done also
I bought each one of these a couple of weeks ago. I don’t have an rv but I just wanted to get my feet wet in the world of solar. I have a small 100w Go Pro Power plus charging station right now. And a 1500w solar generator on the way. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for making this video sir! I think I'm going to go with the newer panel according to what you have shown and get an aftermarket controller also!
I just found the mppt solar controller at Walmart for $88.29. #Tracer 1210AN
I got two of those monocryslalline 100 watt panels on sale at Harbor Freight for 89.99. Just need a good controller for them. Can't wait to test them out. 15 pounds a piece. They are slightly heavy but for the price point there worth it. Thanks for sharing. Take care. 😊
Thanks for this comparison. Very good representation of not only the panels but what you can expect using the two different types of charge controllers. I use a similar MPPT EPEver. I think I’ll get a couple hundred watts of amorphous panels to supplement my system now during overcast winter months and also in the rainy season. May just switch solar rays as needed. Thanks for the great review short and concise yet very informative. Harbor freight seems to raise their prices on a lot of panels the folding one is just about $200 and about $130 for the mono🎉 cheers
Yes you may get more amps with that newer panel but now test this same panel when it's a cloudy day and you will get nothing out of that newer panel, but the 4 Amorphous panels will charge under cloud cover, this is the huge advantage with those 4 panels, this was the entire reason why I ended up going with the Amorphous panels since most of the time when we lose power is when it's cloudy/overcast (stormy) days.
True 100%. Our monocrystalline panel on the roof of our RV during consecutive cloudy days gives us no draw. But also, we have the amorphous solar panels for the Solar on the side for those cloudy days as our back up to keep our battery intact
Yep, I found the Amorphous charge good in the shade too
I had the same experience. My 4-panel kit was stolen but I plan on replacing it just for that reason.Still produced pretty well while over cast or with a little shade from trees blowing nearby.
Stolen from your yard or camping? Solar generators are so expensive, theft is a concern- especially when camping.
@@vigilantobserver8389 I was actually preparing a house to move into over some months. About a month before I moved up there ,the entire property got ransacked. From pumps and piping,yard tools ,ladders,solar equipment ...right down to every lighting fixture in the house etc. Figured out that meth-heads rent the adjacent property.
I have had my HF kit for 4 years. Gonna go check the out the 100 W panel.
I have very strong mono panels, and they only produce decent current on sunny days. When it rains, they produce next to nothing. The amorphous panels produce the same current on cloudy days as they do on sunny days. Around 3.5 amps. It's not enough to run the inverter but it's enough to get a charge when nothing else seems to be working.
I have the old HF panels the 45 watt setup til I went with the other type of panel you have. The main difference is that the HR panels are better on cloudy days.
I started with two of the 45 watt kits that my uncle gave me for working on his lawnmower...I used them with two marine batteries I bought for awhile then I got 3 mono panels...added 2 more batteries, bought 3 more mono panels, different brand...decided to go to 24 volts so I got a 40 amp Epever charge controller and 2 more batteries...well, I have 14 batteries, ten 85 amp hour, and four 105 amp hour...I'm getting two more of those in a week, and no more...I have ten 100 watt mono solar panels, four different brands of them...I might get two more maybe...I use a 2000 watts Aims inverter / charger. It works great...I went off grid months ago...I never could get much voltage out of the PWM controller...the one I have put much more into the batteries as soon as I hooked it up, it's a 4215 BN . I have the MT 50 display like the one you have...
Good review thank you!!
Thanks for doing this comparison!! ;-)
Thank you for telling us both the amps and the volts ...I can't tell you how annoying it is to be watching a video and only be told one ...god bless man
Thanks ! Really helpful
still testing the 100 Watt harbor freight kit built a container for the charge controller recharging a 300 watt lithium generator takes about 7 hours in Nov it seems
Thank you
Mppt controllers allow you to put solar panels in series and get the same amount of power without increasing the current going thru the wires... Allowing you to use smaller wires and less losses due to current flow.
By putting panels in series, you double the voltage and therefore double the power while keeping the current the same.
That is true. If you're working with some high currents, it would be an advantage. With the smaller current I'm working with, the main advantage is that it's converting any panel voltage, that's higher than the batteries charge voltage, to extra current, instead of wasting it like the PWM controller. No high power setup here. Just keeping a single battery topped up while boondocking.
@@kevinrepass4210 : I think you would be surprised at how much difference a mppt controller would make.
It also gives you versatility. You can use solar panels that have output voltages anywhere from 12 to 100 vdc and the mppt controller will transform it to the appropriate battery voltage with the highest possible current going to the battery.
I use a mppt controller with my 100 watt panel and it charges my 12v 100 a-h lithium battery very quickly. I usually use about 30 A-h per day.
@@chronobot2001 , no surprise here. As shown in the video, I am already using a MPPT controller in my camper.
The state of charge of your battery will also determine the amount of current coming from your panels.
If you shorted the cables for the solar panels you would get max current flow and you would probably get closer to the 6-7 amps you were expecting.
The amount of charge on the battery will determine the amount of current the panels will supply. That's why I had the inverter and fans pulling the lead acid battery down, and had all of the lights and fans running in the camper to pull the lithium battery down. As an electrician, I never like shorting any wires together. Even though it might have given a different reading,, it wouldn't have been a real world useable reading of what to expect from the panels in normal use.
Okay I have the same panels but to be able to get anywhere between 7 to 8 amps out of them you need to take each panel and split it in the way of positive to negative type conversion Yes you'll have more voltage but I've learned that the amperage goes up but if you try to connect more than two it won't work so you split the two and then connect them up as one thing
Perfect timing I was considering picking up the new panel. Nice to see it is slightly better than the older model which I have. Can you use the controller from the old model in the new model?
Yes. You can use the old controller. The new panel uses the same SAE connector.
I'm trying to exchange the set of four unused and Harbor Freight isn't having it without at least a lot of add on warranty fees.
That tells you what you need to know. It's more like a 60w system.
Comparing the two can you tell me witch one starts producing power in the morning and witch one stops producing power in the evening? Thanks.
I have the same pannels and am building a home made jackery for our camper van and emergencies. What watt is the charge controller that came with the 4 25w panel kit?
The included PWM charge controller is rated for up to 10 amps, and 14.4 volts output during the boost charging phase, so that's 144 watts.
Can you please tell me where you got that Controller kit and did it come with the plug for the solar panel mounted on the exterior of the camper. Thank you
The PWM controller laying on the ground came with 4 panel kit. I bought the EP Ever MPPT controller, and the remote display from Amazon. All panels came with the SAE connector that mated to the one that was mounted from the factory on the side of the camper. That one went straight to the battery so I had to drill a hole in the interior wall to access the wiring in order to install the charger controller inline.
yes... it is seriously on
just so you know the volt reding on the charge controller is the voltage of your battery not volts coming in from your solar panels
So the 157 volts displayed on my control panel is the battery voltage 🤔
I assumed it was the three 400 watt 50 volts my solar panels are rated at 🤔
Newbie Question , just received my first solar panel Briefcase style (Richsolar)100w with PWM controller to use while camping to help keep batteries up. do i need to disconnect it if i am going to run my Generator for the whole Travel trailer ? will it case damage to the system. thanks
There should be no need to disconnect. The controller will prevent current backflow.
@@kevinrepass4210 Thank you
Just what I wanted to know. I plan on buying the 100 Watt Amorphous Solar Panel Kit, and the 100 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel. Can the kit controller handle the combined panel outputs? Thanks.
I no longer have the amorphous kit, but if I remember correctly, that controller is rated for 10 amps. Theoretically, you could get a little over 12 amps from all of them combined, but it would be rare. I tried paralleling them all at one time, but the total current was a little less than it should have been, based on hooking up the 100 watt kit, and the 100 watt panel separately, and adding the results. I feel like there is a slight voltage difference between the two panel types that's causing the inefficiency. I don't think the included controller would handle the voltage of connecting the panels in series.
Does anyone know if it’s possible to connect both the 4 panel 100w and 1 panel 100w together?
I have parralled them before, but the total current supplied was slightly lower than what it should have been, based on the total of correcting them separately. I believe it was due to the voltage being slightly lower on the 4 panel set, and it was pulling the total down. Connecting them in series would have exceeded the allowed input voltage of my charge controller. I feel like it would work better if each panel type had their own charge controller, then you can parallel their output at the battery.
@@kevinrepass4210 thanks for replying. I am an electrical dummy. I have 2 of the 4 panel kits that I set aside for emergency purposes. Figured I’d scrounge batteries in an emergency situation. Lithium batteries have changed my mind some what. I know I would need charge controllers for lifepo4 batteries. Was just wondering if the ne’er 100 w panels would enhance my setup.
Any one use a dc to dc buck booster converter?
I have the 4x25 100-watt HF panels as well. Had them for over four-years now, & I have nothing but praise for them! I’ll probably purchase the single, 100-watt panel soon!
Just a tip though…don’t set your battery directly on the ground. I’m not an electrician, but I was told to put a piece of wood under it, because the ground will “ground-it-out!” Thanks!
Thanks for the tip Ambrose. I actually am an electrician. Sitting the battery on the ground will not ground it out. Sitting short term on the ground has no negative effects. You do want to sit it on wood if storing during the winter. It will keep a charge longer that way.
Can you connect xtra 100w panel to same controller for 200w total???
@@eddielane9781 , that is currently what I am doing. I have a Victron MPPT 75/15 charge controller. It will accept 75 volts in and output up to 15 amps. I series connect two of the 100 watt panels which creates 36-40 volts at around 6-7 amps in full sun. The controller converts it to 14 volts out at around 12-14 amps.
beginner. I have 4, 100 watt panals, only getting 200 watts in mid day coming in. Is this normal?
Depending on the panel, tilt toward the sun, and how clear the air is, it could be normal. I don't think most of us will ever have perfect enough conditions to get the full tested wattage from a panel. So far, the best I've been able to do with the 100 watt mono-crystaline panel is around 80 watts with the PWM controller. Maybe around 70 watts with the amorphous panels when they were new. A lot of factors can hurt performance. A little haze in the air, panel tilt toward the sun, cable length and heat. The hotter they get, the less efficient they get. It's best to mount them with some air flow around the back side.
@@kevinrepass4210 Thanks.I run a 10awg,10ft extention.Gana add 10 more feet.Is it safe running 20 feet of 10awg,or do I truly need a 6awg?
@@richardjones7882 , 10 AWG is plenty big enough. On average, 10 AWG is good for 30 amps, and the resistance is way low at those lengths.
@@kevinrepass4210 ok,It looks like it will be 5 ft 10 awg I will add,and is it ok to mix up different name brands extension cables from Amazon?
@@richardjones7882 , that should be fine.
2 fans blowing on the newer panel may alter comparison results.
How would it alter results? The fans weren't blowing on the panel. They were only there to put a load on the battery. There should be zero current flow from the panels to the battery if it had a full charge and no load.
Its been my experience that the Harbor Freight 25W panels are really only 17W. They must use some New Math to get to 25W.
Sounds right solar only get about 75% efficiency to your batteries after the power loss from wires and controllers
What is the amp rating on your new controller!
10 amps.
@@kevinrepass4210 I have 200 watts going to a 10 amp Harbor Freight controller and didn't know if I needed to upgrade to 30 amp. I have (6) 35 amp batteries. 2000 watt inverter.
200 watts may be pushing a 10 amp controller past it's limits, under ideal conditions. Theoretically, 200 watts divided by 13 volts gives you around 15.4 amps. You'll never get that much out of them but I can see you getting 13 - 14 amps out of a pair of the HF mono-crystaline panels, based on what I've gotten out of my single 100 watt panel, on a very clear day. I have 10 amp inline fuses in the wiring to protect everything.
Only thing you left out is what battery you use
It's a 100 AH LiFePO4 battery. It's one of the cheaper ones branded as ToBattery. I've had it a year now and it worked great during the last camping season. The only drawback is that it didn't have the low temperature charging cutoff built in. But that doesn't matter to me since I don't camp in cold weather.
@@kevinrepass4210 Thanks for response! Good video by the way keep it up
Thank you. I have some ideas for a few more videos, when the weather warms up.
Had the 3 panel system. Rtnd it to Harbor freight n bought the Renogy single panel kit with chg controller included for less $ than the big flimsy Harbor freight 3 panel one that didn't work well at all and with lil cust support.
Exactly! 👏 Harbor Freight is garbage 🗑️
What if you hooked up a headlight to it for all night charge? Headlights are 12 volt! Maybe just try at night in front of the car and charge the car battery with the headlights??. High beam low beam tests?
That's a nice thought, but I don't think a headlight would put out enough light to get any thing from it. The output voltage of the panel ramps up as the light source gets brighter. It needs to get up to around 12 - 13 volts before the charge controller will start the current flow to the battery. I don't think it would. Plus that would be very inefficient. Most solar panels today are only around 20% efficient. You would be using way more power than you would be generating.
Free energy isn't real.
Bonjour si vous souhaitez avoir des panneaux solaires pliable acheter de 2 a autant que vous voulez des panneaux solaires de 50w et fête en une valise pliable cordialement
Try the same test on a cloudy day and see what happens
I was actually planning on that when I got a chance. I know amorphous panels are supposed to work better in low light so that should be an interesting matchup.
I would just want one 100w panel less to carry
Panel is more then 100 watts.
Your wires are to thin. So wil loose power into your wires. Try it with 4 or 6mm² wire and you wil see a beter result
I'm using 18 gauge wire at a distance of around 10 feet. If you check the charts, you will see that for a copper wire, that only has .0638 ohms of total resistance. That low of a resistance is totally negligible. A bigger wire would be overkill.