Trying to FIX: NINTENDO SWITCH with NO DISPLAY on LCD or TV
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Hi, in this 'trying to fix' video I attempt to fix a Nintendo Switch which has a black screen in handheld mode, and no output when docked on the TV. It is unusable as it doesn't display anything, anywhere even though you can hear sounds and the touchscreen works.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
Been waiting for another Switch video! Wish I could tell you what the problem was but just can't tell from the video. Nice work on replacing that screen ribbon cable!
Maybe he can send it to you if he can't get it working. I love watching the both of you repair these things. You guys are awesome.
You should meet up
Thank you Steve :-) Since the video I have compared voltages from a working Switch, it looks like the data lines on the LCD connector are present but most of the voltage pins are missing???? I am not sure what chip or chips pushes the voltage towards the screen.
Hi Vince and Steve, Im fallowing both of your channels. Thanks to You I fixed two dead PSP :-)
I wote for Vince to send Steve switch, of course when everothing else failed, just for thumbs up ;-)
A few thoughts for you Vince. Something caused the burn mark on the LCD connector. My guess is a small piece of dirt that was conductive enough to short pins together. If one of the pins that got shorted was a power line and the other was a data line, then high voltage would have been sent to the chip that outputs the data to the LCD.
Probe the connector on working switch, note the voltages on each pin, and compare to the switch that had the burnt connector. If you find one that is missing trace it back to the chip.
One more thought, there would be enable signals to the chips to sent data to the LCD as well. If the enable isn't present the data won't be sent to the LCD either. But the backlight is working, so if the data and backlight work on the same enable signal then that is not your problem. Unless there is a schematic available (I assume there isn't) it could be difficult to find the enable signals.
Note, I have never worked on a nintendo switch before. This is only based on general knowledge of electronics.
Cheers
^He said it far more succinctly than I, "that" lol
Just today I repaired my first nintendo switch and thats all thanks to you! Ive watched many of your videos, but the videos covering phones or game consoles (especially nintendo switch) are imo the most interesting, because they are high risk high reward items. So my interest in trying to fix something myself increased after each of your videos.. eventually I made the first move and bought a broken switch. As a guideline I litterally watched all of your switch fixing videos (like 6-8) in the last few days over and over again x,). And finally it helped me find the culprit, thank you so much
@Smattless
thanks :) somehow a little capasitor next to the cpu was loose. I just had to solder that and swap the wifi and game card reader out with working units.
I'd say the simplest solution is usually the most obvious... Follow the first 4 or 5 pins where there was scorching of the display connector (typically VCC) and follow the traces, i bet the scorching on the connector was prolonged secondary damage and the real culprit is further down the line, smells like a burnt open to me - either a resitor or trace, compare with a donor and find supply source, the open will likely be as a result of a soft short. Great vid Vince!
remove the LCD connector and check the continuity between the connector and the filters
and try to check the voltage on the connector pins and compart it with those of a working one
good luck vince
i learned a lot from you
The Error noise at 12:46 May be an error about the switch overheating, because You have not put in the heatpipe And therefor the main Chip is overheating
for some reason i much enjoy watching People fix Stuff. Its one of those Oddly Satisfying things
I wish you revisit this soon and finally find a solution! very good job on fix usb c port and get video from dock, so now you know the videochip is working at least on tv set...
Those zoom shots really crisp. 👍
Thank you Tampa :-)
I love to watch these, so interesting and informative. Pls do more of this.
~ big fan
hello Vince
I've had this problem before I don't know if anyone has mentioned it over the 200 comments. but with my experience. with the LCD connector if the LCD connector is not displaying picture. I would check the diode near the LCD connector And in my personal experience. with replacing the LCD connector is that you do not want to apply any heat to the LCD connector directly or use a soldering iron. What I do for Perfect results every time it's remove the connector. And then I would prepare the pads and tin with a nice amount of solder then apply the new Flux And place the connector on top of the tinned pads then I would apply heat from the other side of the PCB and now the heat to slowly radiate through and Melting the solder and the socket to flow and pull itself perfectly into place.
If you have any more questions drop me a message.
best regards Ash
Can you please elaborate on the heat from the other side approach? If you use hot air, do you remove the tip so that a wide area is affected? also what temperature do you use? I fear of melting the solder of the other components and causing them to move due to air. Much appreciated! I damaged this component and dreading the replacement.
Lovely to see Nintendo Switch fix videos back. Great job as ever on the video Vince.
I know little, you know far more. The burned end of the LCD connector suggests to me that something happened. While you may have replaced the connector, I have to wonder what caused it and is that also still the problem?
Well I just watched this video because I had the same problem. Didnt really help me but I might be able to help you. I changed the usb-c conector on a switch that wouldn't dock, and the LCD just wouldnt work after. I have been micro soldering for a few years so Im quite confident I didnt mess up anything, so I thought maybe the LCD conector was fragile, so I changed that FPC: nothing changed, like in your case. So I started checking filters and everything surrounding the places I touched, and everything was OK. Tested with new LCD, same issue, booted, touch worked, but no image. After checking everything, and everything checking out OK, I ultrasonicd the board with no luck. So I tought "well, its all or nothing now" and fluxed the C/GPU, reflowed that bastard, ultrasonicd again and closed the switch. With very little confidence I pressed the button and guess what, it worked. All that trouble for some dirt/cold solder under CPU
You have the patience of a saint..I would've thrown that damn thing against the wall😫
Nice to see you working at a desk so you can focus more clearly on working and be comfortable : )
The fact that the original LCD connector from the beginning of the video was obviously burnt on the very end of one side makes me think there was an issue with power. If you had a working Switch, maybe you could check the pins on that side of the connector while the screen is on to see what readings you get, and compare them to the broken Switch.
To avoid damaging connectors and stuff you can buy a pre-heater and heat up the board until you reach 150ºC on top, this way you can easily desolder stuff without damaging it.
For that tiny capacitor you could have used solder paste and hot air, it would be easier.
Great video Vince :)
Did you double check there is continuity for all the tracks on the ribbon cable for the LCD? Maybe somehow the ribbon cable became faulty and its just really hard to see.
Another great video Vince mate keep up the good work you're over half way to that 1 million subscribers
If I remeber this correctly, the LCD display and the back light works seperately. The ribbon cable for the back light which only have two lines in the ribbon cable( I think one is power, one is ground according to the thickness of the line) is the one beside the LCD display's one. Docking backlight off, undocking on means the console could recognize its state.
From now on, just my guess, since I don't have a switch, but I reckon all LCD screen works similar.
I am not 100% sure the connector works, because the touching function and display works seperately. You could check the pins to find it out. The signal for the screen will be either 1 or 0 since it is digital, which means you will get 3.3V(not sure whether it is 3.3V, but definately a voltage much bigger than 0) or 0.
Talking about the pins on one LCD screen, there will be at least one power pin, usually several pins. The touching function and the display function work seperately, this will explain why one is working, another won't. There will be 16 pins for data transmission. There will be a write-enable pin for the LCD to get data from the chip, which I think this is where the problem lies.
If you could find the schematic for the LCD( maybe find the manufacture, find the product model, or any way you could), this the function of the pins will be known. And you could find out which one is write-enable and whether we need to give this pin a 1 or a 0 to enable writing.
Thanks for the detailed info. Since the video was released I have compared voltages with a working Switch using a multi meter. There are numerous missing voltages that are in the range of 5V+. I think whatever pushes the voltage towards the screen is faulty. The problem is I can't trace the tracks back to locate the suspect chip :-)
Yay a new Vince upload also Would love to see more psp fixes.
Mr Vince, I eagerly await the promised attempt at the partial power / blackout ps3 mentioned in the first nec/token video
it's a relatively common fault, and virtually zero diagnosis exists online, aside from the thousands of amateur UA-cam videos of kids going "look what my ps3 is doing"
any progress on that is sure to further your rockstar status :)
(unrelated to video or above comment)
tantalum cap placement tip:
stick them to a long strip of kapton and stick it to the board. solder positives, peel tape, solder negatives.
must be stuck to kapton prior to any flux contact, or won't hold properly.
saves TONS of time with tweezers / placement / flux, and when done it has a OEM appearance to it :)
no intention to walk over this video ;( I do most of my UA-cam watching on smart tv (which doesn't support commenting)
Its been done already.
@@zerocool278
nec/token? yes
blackout? no
@@zerocool278 apologies, I see that video now -- the "no power at all"
you're absolutely right, it was done already
in my head, I was thinking about the issue where the 3001 models turn on to green light then rapidly turn back off with no light at all
Great stuff =D Ouch at the USB connector =/ I think I would next measure voltages on that video IC (compare between a working Switch and this one). Maybe a voltage is missing or low on that video IC. Having said that, is that video IC just related to HDMI, or does that feed the LCD?
I don't know Chris if it is just for HDMI out (or I think it is DisplayPort out and the Dock converts to HDMI) or whether it also controls the LCD. I have since measured the pins on the LCD connector and compared it to a working Switch. Loads of the voltage pins are missing. I think the chip or chips that control the voltage for the screen is faulty. The data pins appear to be OK but my scope I don't think is quick enough :-) Thanks for the helpful comments :-)
My Mate VINCE Hello, I have a problem on a switch there is no more display on the lcd, I have the sound backlight and touch sound all ok, no lcd, may on tv stand its works, I tested two lcd still no display, I changed the l92 m36t36 PI3USB lcd connector and usb docks also same result, I can not find the lcd display failure. Do you have a solution? Thank you
You have the same helping hands that my husband has 🙂 he let me use his when I was soldering my LED chritmas tree kit.
Vince you fr need a gaming channel cuz I swear I'd watch that crap everyday of my LIFE and congratulations
on what you've done with yourself it seems like you're pretty wealthy
Perfect, something to watch whilst I am doing the boring task of replacing DS Lite top screens :-p
Hey Mike, hope you keeping well. I still need to do the 2DS XL top screens!!!! I have been putting it off for over a year now :-)
My Mate VINCE was going to ask about those, as I swapped out a charging port for one yesterday and it jogged my memory :)
I love your videos VINCE! I was wondering.... Do you think you could do a video on how to fix a faulty Nintendo Switch??? 😀👍👍 I JOKE.. We luv ya man! You truly have the best vids! So peaceful and I learn so much! P.s. My girlfriend thinks you should model your hands in commercials!🎮🎮🎮🎮😀😀
Time for bed? Time for Vince! Damn you :P
I’m not sure but if it stopped working after you made changes to the usb c part could that have a dual function between handheld screen and dock? Maybe the problem lies there?
Hope this helps and keep up the good work 👍🏻
Hm, quite a confusing problem. I would love to have a guess, but you've been very thorough and I've never worked on a switch sadly. I hope someone in the comments has an idea of what it could be, I would love a revisit.
First off, I love your videos. I have an idea I have brought up to multiple UA-camrs that make these types of videos and they all say it's a good idea but none have done it yet. Make a video about how to change the front half of the Switch's shell. Like the half that integrates the exhaust slot and power buttons. I have a day-one Switch that has ONLY been used docked and still works great but the plastic shell is basically crumbling to pieces. Just FYI as far as I can tell there still isn't a single video showing how to do this and it is a widespread problem. Thanks for reading this if you actually do ;)
Just a suggestion for the next time you try something like reattaching the charging port after lifting the solder pads. After attaching the wires to the missing pads, try using a toothpick and applying some solder mask to the sides of the wire and curing it. That way you provide a solid connection to the circuit board which wont slip with heat from the soldering iron or hot air. If you over apply the soldier mask and cover the wire, you can always scrape back until you get back to the wire without cutting it off. You may even be able to shave back half of the thickness of the wire to flatten it out a bit so it doesn't stick up so much for surface mounts. You just have to be careful around the good pads.
Great advice, thanks for sharing it on here :-)
Relax about the flux. The flux you use is non-conductive and non-corrosive. You could not clean it off at all and the electronics would be fine (just sticky) as long as the contacts are clean.
@My Mate VINCE , Get and old iphone speaker take it a part use the copper wire for jumpers and use UV solder mask to keep the jumpers in place under the the usb c port.
Very nice soldering job
Great advice Anonymous. So I could use the UV solder mask and then scrape back just the top of the wire to expose the copper again. Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince Yes you can
I had a similar issue on one of the Switches I fixed. It was the video chip that was the culprit. Maybe the chip from your donor board was bad. You might want to replace it and see if it changes anything.
Just has this exact same issue. However In the dark I could see the screen turn on, just the back light working and could also hear sounds when tapped. It was the LCD connector. They are EXTREAMLY sensitive! Might be worth getting a new connector. Remove old one, clean all the pads. Tin them up. and with no flux place the new connector on and heat from the back of the board while pressing down on the connector.
okay, i have the exact problem you had at the end of the video. works in TV only... did you find outhow to fix and is it an easy fix
Is there a fuse or something on that board between the LCD connector and the main chip? and it is preventing the signal from getting through?
Having watched you work on this board before and knowing what a frustrating pain its been... every burned spot on it makes me giggle. LOL Teach it a lesson, Vince! :D
Vince can you help me my switch displays and charges on the dock and everything but it won’t appear on a tv I think a display chip thing is broken but the screen shows when in handheld mode
I am also facing the same issue
Any fix so far?
Excellent job, I have a d’ange joycon with broken ribbon connector sockets, can you tell where I can get replacement sockets
Have you diode mode the display connector? I have a switch I am about to replace the connector on if you want any readings? Would love to find a reliable schem/boardview for the switch.
Were you able to find any schematic related info yet? I have a faulty switch which came in with various problems. I fixed the broken usb c port, I replaced the charging chip MT92smth and it now turns on and charges. But I can't get the doc mode working. I checked every line and couldn't find any short. I'm on this one now for several hours and I can't find a solution.
Just wondering if you had a bit soldering iron bit you don't mind losing and cutting a slot in it to accommodate a a piece of copper strip that can heat up all pins and allow you to re-solder those awkward connectors, Jessa in Rochester NYC fixes NINTENDO Switches, Looks like someone is designing a FPGA version of the NINTENDO Switch.
Hey, my daughter dropped her drink the switch lite only got a little bit wet and dried it off straight away. Now and again we got sound but no screen whatsoever. Any ideas
Watching this again as I took the plunge a very cheap working Switch but doesn't dock and just wondering whether if its worth fixing it or just using it as a "lite" as is, if I can rebuild a twin mainspring Soviet watch movement I reckon I stand a good chance if its something little that prevents docking lol
@MyMateVince I notice that when you test for shorts, you place the hot lead on a metal component and use the black one on the individual traces. I'm trying my hand at fault finding and I'd like to know how you get the multimeter to beep so to indicate where a device is failing.
It's not finding a fault, per se. He's checking for continuity or a short. Basically looking for a path where there should be a path(continuity) and sometimes checking for a path where there SHOULD NOT be a path(short). Google or search youtube for "how to test for continuity using a multimeter". Not all multimeters beep when doing a continuity test, but you want to use Ohms mode and look for a symbol that kinda looks like a wifi symbol. If your particular meter doesn't do the beep, you can just look for a very low resistance(OHMS) reading. Good Luck!
@@SublimeArchi You must have skimmed over the part where I wrote "I notice that when you test for *shorts* " You must be an attention seeking windbag in person. You take what someone expressed to you and hijack the conversation to respond with what you think its about in your head
Vince you should replace the connector again but use hot air. Slow settings
Or you could build an Nintendo switch home console has you can have it docked. It would be a permanent switch docked.
I would love to see that 😊
Hello, I have the exact same problem on one of the repair I did actually and it’s happen when I just try to put the motherboard in one other switch to see if the screen is working … I think the screen didn’t work and I put it back in his actual case and no more working on the switch just the TV… I changed 6 time the Lcd connector (yes that’s true) and nothing… so please tell me that you found the solution and please let us KNOW…. Thank you
LCD driver chip
did you ever try a known working video ship or did you only try the one from the water damage water bouard?
Hay vince got a question I have not seen any one do this what would happen if you put a video chip from a switch to the switch lit would you be able to dock or is their still something blocking it when trying
When the switch "SWITCH" is docked the display is redirected, could it be that the HDMI portion of the circuit is hindering this signal to change from HDMI to the LCD?
If I remember the switch takes a few seconds before the HDMI or TV displays anything, so if your switch when docked is instant it may just be the case,
mind you I have no idea what method is used to switch A/V to either the HDMI or when undocked to the LCD Screen, but that's what I would suspect..
APU I dropped a Like..
I am not sure if the Display is redirected, because if you run Android on the Switch and Dock it the Switch display and the TV Shows the Image. But i am not sure how the "Docking" Works exactly
@@ThxnderBvnny you may be correct about that, But I still suspect there is an Integrated Circuit "IC" that drives the HDMI graphics via a HDMI Format and if not another IC, another section of the IC drives the LCD format, BTW Android devices for the most rely on a LCD driven format, while TV's rely on Audio Video being fed via a composite set of connections or lately more often than not a HDMI port.
high voltage up the data line from a shorted connector has blown the APU, i am astonished its working at all
I love your vids Vince can't wait for switch vids
Hello VINCE,
did you solve the problem with the switch that does not work with the docking station? That only Show 480P? Was it the video chip? Thank you for your PERFECT work
No, I never did. That Switch became the Nintendo Switch Mini that I did in the UA-cam vids :-)
@@Mymatevince
Thanks for your answer and your effort
Well, video cards or onboard gpus have "heads" for various output, for example a head for vga, a another on for hdmi, those are seperated. That means, when one "head" fails, output can still be gained from another connector. It just so seems that your "head" for the LVDS died. That does not mean that the hdmi via usb c is in danger, could very well be that a short on molten connector caused this.
I might assume that the connectors were both faulty? I really do not know, but, both of the connectors might be faulty? If not, check the capacitors near the LCD connector?
Try fixing the Aiwa AD6800 on eBay, now the reward for fixing that is a beautiful tape deck that's appreciating in value. Throw the B&O in the bin. You will be blown away by that Aiwa and fixing it is a great video op
Hmm interesting one. Chip that generates video should be fine if video works normally in dock mode. Really weird, that type of burn is not from 5V or 3.3V for sure - it's clearly from backlight line. I think that something ( maybe that little dirt inside connector? ) made short between backlight voltage and some data pin thats why backlight and dock mode works and data signal doesn't. Try to trace that tracks where the burn was - you will then catch faulty component. As always lovely video.
can you take off the white clamp bit off the connector then put it back on that way you could use hot air and it wont melt the white thing??? might be easier
At 9:04 what are those small black square component's name?
what flux are you using? im just getting some tools and materials together and im no sure what to buy.
Hey @My Mate VINCE check the coils of the lcd they can go bad check them contuinity i ve seen gone bad on iphones have nice day
Hi vince, have been a subscriber since your telephone tutorial days! I have a expensive smart car charger which recently went bang! I'd love you to take a look at it, else it's heading for the bin! I'd more than happily pay for your time and whatever parts are needed! It wasn't far off £100 when I brought it and its about 3 months out of warranty!many thanks. Chris
This video saved my switch. Thank you so much!!
Why didn't you remove the nand module when you were heating thr board and when checking the filters and chip connection?
worst case scenario is, a path between layers blew up or shorted. That would be pretty much unfixable IMO. "If you can't see the problem, then, maybe... you just can't see it". The official schematics would definitely dissolve any doubt - as if it was a viable option, lol.
Videos like this remember me NOT to purchase any faulty last-gen console in hope of fixing it.
Walter Comunello eh, its a risk worth having, you can have spare parts if you can’t fix it, for another project
Vine. Heat the connector from underneath the PCB. to remove it. Use Kapton tape. When solder back, don't go for all the pins directly but put it in place, and solder just one pin (the anchor pins) It's easy to adjust afterwords
Love these vids so much.
I'd check those hdmi traces from the screen ribbon connector as far down the board as you can, maybe those lines are connected directly to the other hdmi filters near the USB port, I think the lcd screen connector will have a couple or more pins allocated for voltage as apose to signals, I saw a test point to test this voltage near the ribbon connector, you could cross reference what this voltage is supposed to be on a working board, if you are getting an image in docking mode, it can't be the apu, or video chip, it has to be either an open line on one of the signal lines or that voltage isn't there for the lcd (it's not the backlight voltage it's a seperate voltage which should be there on the lcd ribbon connector)
vince see if the backlight connector is loose hold your finger down on the latch and then try and turn it on
Is it stuck in doc mode? Why is it stuck in doc mode
20:05-20:10 LOL! Talk about trying to make people laugh in order to stop yourself from crying in a corner.
You should check the data lines to the LCD by setting your multimeter to diode mode and then place the positive probe on any of the grounds on the switch and the negative probe on each pin of the filters that you tested that are connected to the LCD. You should get around a diode drop (0.6V or so) showing the protection diode in the chip that it is connected to. If you get anything else I would think that is a suspicious reading.
I had the same issue. Mine was definitely the LCD flex ribbon ziff connector. I swapped it out and it didn't work at first then I used a toothbrush and a lot of alcohol to clean the connector of flux. It worked.
High voltage to the data line from a shorted out connector cable will blow the output signal lines on the APU. unfortunately probably isn't fixable, at least it still works in docked, which actually surprised me. damage to the APU is usually Fatal
Hi Vince, I had one where the lcd was just broken. Maybe you can try a working display?
new title earned : The mighty switch ressurector !
Can I have some advice please. My Xbox one x has a strange problem. When I switch it off and leave it off for a few hours or more then switch it back on it won’t read any disc or eject the disc. However when I switch it off then back on again it works, I don’t get it. Would it be a software problem
My Switch has this same thing. It was missing for three months and it was found in the yard. Yeah i was really surprised it even turned on but it doesnt display on the screen or dock.
u had 900 subs when i first watched your videos. Do you still work with British telecom ? out of interest
What switches it back to the LCD when you undock it? perhaps that is faulty.
It could be a broken trace between the display connector and the GPU.
I know it has been more than 1year, but I have Switch with same problem, and people told me that the culprit can be the small chip next to the connector (8316) or the caps/res next to it (more likely them then chip)... I am still to test it out with a working Switch, but I trust the source...
Does anyone know why the large coil to the right of the display connector is on ground as the top coil pad is grounded but the bottom coil pad coming from the little iC Chip isn’t ????
As there are no surface traces running to the top coil pad I’m guessing that it is internal to the board going somewhere 😐 I have also removed the P13USB Pericom iC Chip and the Short is still at the top coil pad 😐
Any help would be very much appreciated.
You can shine a bright flashlight on top of the screen to try and see if it is displaying anything, if it is the problem is with the backlight. If it doesn't show anything at all, the LCD or the ribbon cable or the video chip is damaged.
Thomas Richter the backlight works fine, look at when he takes the switch out of the dock, the switch’ screen goes from a black screen to dark blue.
I have a feeling I was bidding against you on eBay for this specific switch :D
Lmaooo you’re happy you didn’t have to deal with it
Have you tried changing the filters 🤔
did you check the contrast or brightness
Maybe a problem around the hdmi connector/output curcuitit may think Its docked hence no screen but can't output to dock.
I love watching your vids m8
LCD display maybe bad
Try nicking another one and see if that’s the culprit?
I had a similar issue but on the vita several years ago and that turned out to be it. That too was water damaged.
Try to match the itens around the pin that burn. I saw in others video there is filter by that side that have the burn. Just a tip ehhe
Do you think I can take my switch to a repair store if I have this problem?
you should do a philips cd-i player if you have not done one allreally i used to have one
Me, informed about the homebrew side of switch modding:
oooh he probably blew the fuse now!!
take care. the lcd has gate and source lines. the gate to triggering the crystal to turn, the source to supply the power needed for it.
basically like millions of transistors.
the filters are only for the signal to control the crystal rotation of the gate line, not the main power to actually turn the crystal via the source line. since the video signal works as seen when it is docked i guess that the dc dc converter for the source line might be busted. usually it is close to the actual lcd driver ics but nintendo could have it on the main pcb. the burn mark on the connector could have come from a bad voltage given from the dc/dc converter.
sorry but i have no idea about a switch's layout, only lcd knowledge.
check the max77621 dc-dc converter. only one i could find with google which seems to be on the switch pcb at least once.
since the defect did not move with the lcd, it has to be on the pcb.
23:28 that was what killed the lcd me thinks Vince. Now that that is fixed perhaps you should just replace the lcd with a working one. Also I will say it again:: Missing pads fix= aluminium foil+scissors+bensine glue+magifying lens = LUV. Cheers mate :)
Update: on ~27:48 I notice framedrops on Mario kart. I dont' know if that's normal or a byproduct of the video encoding process but if it happens in realtime where it shouldn't perhaps that's an indication of a short somewhere or a bad logic chip. also another speculation, if the videochip currently used is from a the water damaged switch perhaps it has the same problem for a different reason (eg output on tv was not working on that chip from the start. I remember you had another switch that was doing the xact same thing. Any way, I for one, am hoping for a revisit video with good news soon. *Holding breath now* :)
Update: *Turns red*
Update: *Turns Blue*
Update: *Loud sound of an explosion was heard on the neighborhood. The police is currently investigating*
Awesome Videos 👌
Mohamed Adam how do you know, you haven’t even watched it yet
He said videos and not video
bassNstuffs because I literally watch every repair videos that he uploads. Every single time. 😂✌️
Mohamed Adam u literally changed ur comment dude
Technic Freak Julian he said video before he changed the comment
Isn't the design of these machines a bit flimsy?
And super tiny. Hard to fix. Changing connectors, especially high density ones, is rather painful.
@Namiko Sai Perhaps that is a better word.
It's also not "typical Nintendo" to design hardware in this way, I suppose, as it's common in these days with all the performance and compactness requirements. However, this machine has some extra potential problems in the form of the docking station and joycons, for examples. If I were to purchase a Switch, I think I'd pick the Lite version because of this, or a stationary-only version that doesn't exist.
@@waltercomunello121 That's probably a common problem these days, and not strictly a Nintendo-exclusive problem ;)
All elements on other side right behind LCD connector responsible for LCD output, check with working switch mb you will find something burned or shorted. Also that melted Connector probably tells us that capacitor near LCD connector is heating up.