Gained so much respect for you after this video. 99% of youtubers will NOT upload a video that's unsuccessful. It's such breath of fresh air to watch a true and honest video, as many of us novice 'repairs' are unable to repair.
Yeah why do people read comments before finishing videos, of course there is going to be spoilers . People are going to talk about what happen in the video
Dog hair can simply teleport in. I keep finding hair from my childhood dog in random places and she’s passed on two decades ago in another house entirely.
I really appreciate you showing this. I've got interest in screwing around with electronics, but I'm terrified of buying something and not being able to fix it, and just getting completely over my head in something. Thanks for showing that it's okay when things go to hell.
Really appreciate this video. Everyone loves a trier and I learned a lot from watching you do this. I've learned more than watching the pros do a fix. Keep this going - we need more people like you posting like this. Thank you so much.
Thank you, that means a lot. I always find that learning by trial and error is so much better than just following a "how to" video or watching a pro. It makes you focus and think more. Thanks again for your kind words 👍
I was going to say pretty much the exact same thing, but I think you covered it quite nicely already. All I'll say is that I couldn't possibly agree more.
thanks for ruining the result no point on watching now (dont tell me to look at the comments because youtube puts one comment as preview without clicking)
According to other videos I saw, Blue screen in switch v1 model was related to nand corruption, nand chip being broken or nand solder joints being broken. When checking the board around the cpu, gpu and apu cheap multimeters can beep where they should not (low resistance doesn't always meant short) i would rather try to to check the caps in diode mode to. Don't want to upset you, but probably reflow or the reball wasn't needed, still this switch was probably unfixable
Thanks for the feedback! Not upset at all, I didn't think I'd be able to fix it, but I wanted a challenge to put me out of my comfort zone! I'm happy that I got to mess around with removing chips etc,. And I've learnt quite a lot, so I should hopefully improve! ☺ thanks for the tip, re diode mode. I'll give that a go next time! 👍
If it’s any consolation I once took a very expensive Dyson to pieces to “replace the belt”, it didn’t go back together again but at least I tried 🤷🏼. Love the content and honesty nice video…. 🥰
They're built to be difficult to impossible to fix, so you need buy a new one every couple of years. They cost as much as an Electrolux, and Electroluxes can be repaired neatly infinitely.
Fascinating video. Steve, I'm bowled over by your patience and perseverance. I've have muttered a few unpleasant words and consigned it to the spares cupboard so much earlier.
These videos are so inspirational specially after seeing more recent videos of yours where you successfully mend many things. My own mending attempts dont seem so laughable to me as they used to , now I have seen a few menders on youtube and their evolution from trial and error to actual fixers.
@@pablohdz14 what's the issue? unfortunately there are no public schematics for any game consoles. However, depending on symptoms, we can sometimes track down the problem and fix it! some things arent fixable though :/
I used a quick grip on the GPU once to get a switch to boot from a blue screen. and it worked perfectly. This is my method now before I apply any heat. the CPU can't take that much heat,
I know it's late but I really wanted to say this. I think the reason that the usb c ports shield was like that was because it was dropped while plugged in. Not entirely sure though.
Those are not shorts. They are simply a very low resistance tracks. And, if you did not know, the multimeter beeper is designed to simply beep once the checked resistance is below 50 Ohms. So anything you test that is below 50 Ohms will beep and this beeper function could be VERY misleading in these kinds of diagnostics. ALWAYS confirm shorts with a simple Ohm resistance function which will show 0 or close to 0 Ohms, not the continuity beeper option. These APUs, CPUs and GPUs are powered and driven by very small resistance components and tracks. For example, most GPU power phases are around 1 Ohm, so it is pretty much impossible to confirm if the APU/CPU/GPU is shorted. The only way to confirm this is to know the board and resistances on it or have a working board for a comparison.
Wow, I used to rework (around the time of Xbox RROD) and when I did, I _always_ used a laser rework station (where a insanely strong laser pointed at the die would heat it up) to rework/reflow those bga chips. Good on you for trying with hot air.
I appreciate your videos, good fun watching you troubleshoot and bring life to these consoles. i watch during downtime at work, gets me excited for when I go home to work on my own electronics projects.
Been binge watching your vids and have been really chuffed with your positive attitude and outcomes. Why not share a link to your secondary channel in case others are interested!
Hi, Steve. Great video. I had slight hopes you bodge it. And somehow it worked. OH well you got pratice out of it. Stay safe to you and your loved ones.
Biggest mistake Professional Servicemen do when using a Hot Air station is setting their hot Air Stations wind speed insanely beyond 25%. High airflows are in fact the main reason if not the only reason why Re-balling BGA chips fail, Mind you if those capacitors you checked after the reflow attempt were already shorted, it's a good indicator the chip nearby connected to them needs replacing, Such a small BGA chip BTW can be repaired without a Template if one has a steady hand and a suitable Cheap BGA Jig for it..
Thanks for the feedback, once again! Yeah, it's just so tempting to whack the airflow up! Ill remember that one for next time... I will use the board to practice on, and I've ordered some solder balls so I can give a manual reball a go! 👍
Nice video ,👍 Good practice on trying to solder that chip back, but may I give you a little tip? Way too much flux used to attempt soldering the CPU back on it was floating on the flux and could not contact the pads that is why you had to boil the flux away before the CPU wanted to stick. And if that was a working CPU, it would be dead from all that heat you used to try it to stick. Before soldering the chip back on go over the pads with some solder wick and lay some fresh leaded solder on so that you bring the solder melting temp down, that unleaded shit needs a lot more temp than leaded solder. As of this one is dead I would practice on it and desolder and resolder it a couple times till you feel comfortable with it. You should aim to solder it with a shorter time of hot air and try to minimize the temp. Practise is the only solution.
@@StezStixFix Hi, .you can go to 400 , With experience you will see if you need the nozzle closer or farther to prevent board or chip damage. The trick is to put most heat in the board to desolder the chip and not the chip itself. You can do this by holding the hot-air nozzle at an angle and blow the hot air on half the edge of the chip and half the pcb in a circular motion around the chip. The air that hits the pcb will bounce partly off the pcb and hit the underside of the chip and the solder do this until the chip is loose. If you are afraid to blow of small parts around the chip tape them with Kapton tape or some metal shielding to prevent it. Also, keep in mind the backside of the pcb where the chip is located if there are small resistors ore caps that they don't fall of the board if you put too much heat in the board. If the chip you desolder is faulty you can go medieval on it as you did, you reduce the risk to damage the board or nearby parts. To resolder a good chip, clean the solder pads on the board with some flux and desoldering braid , clean whit some IPA , put some fresh flux and add some fresh leaded solder on the pads not to much else you have a risk of shorts and put the new chip on and solder it in the same way as desoldering in a circle motion. A little trick before you put that bga chip in place pre-heat the area before placing the chip. Let the to air melting the solder and not heat up the chip to melt the solder. Next phase is re ball the chip.😄
Thank you so much for taking the time to post these tips. Some excellent information in there and I will definitely be giving it a go. I guess it's all about the practice - I already feel more confident, and I have only ever tried once! 😊
A short can be caused on one side of a board and shown itself across the other. Console boards have insane layering and pathways that we can't even see. I can tell you're still relatively new to this so keep going! We learn by doing and we sometimes get lucky, often we don't (lol). Keep learning.
@@StezStixFix No problem! You will have more luck, I'm sure. The final thing I can add is that it'll usually start to click in chunks. You'll go from having a very basic idea of how any of it works and then one day boards stop looking like a crazy, populated mess and start to make sense. It just clicks. It's hard to explain but you'll likely experience it, too. It will help to fully understand what each component does in a circuit. That way you'll stop seeing random rows of caps, resistors, etc and start to see design. "Oh, that's a power supply there and, oh, that's the bridge rectifier" Pretty soon you'll see that all electronics are made on the same 5 or 6 basic designs: power in, convert AC to DC (if power adapter didn't), filter, upvolt or downvolt, send to chip. It'll come. Good luck!
@@DannyWilliamH Awesome info, thanks again. I feel like I'm getting there, and definitely starting to understand what components do what. Really enjoying the journey too 😊
I think that is the same model microscope as I have. The Andonstar ADSM302 it looks exactly the same other than that has a different arm. It's a decent microscope for the price and I like the fact it has HDMI out. So you can connect it up to any size screen. I will have to check your unboxing video.
Also I don't know if you already know but the main chip has very low resistance so will cause the meter to beep. Normally one side of the caps will be 0 ohm and the other side about 6-8 ohm. But most meters beep between 0 and 10 ohms.
Thanks for the heads up on the caps. I've got another board, so I'll play around with it and see if I can get some readings before I go attacking the CPU again! 👍
You need bottom heater to pre heat the board to not warp it and 0.35 balls and stencil ODNX02-A2 ODNX02 -A2 0.35MM BGA Stencil Template and jig to hold CPU in as reballing it. I like to use aluminum foil instead of the tape, it reflects the heat better off the plastics connectors and have not melted one since. It is not as hard to reball I did a few of the regular switch and to my surprise first one was successful. I reball xbox360's and laptop gpu's back in the day, do have some experience. I actually going to attempt a lite soon, if can find one at a reasonable price that seller doesn't lie and sent completely water damaged.
Thanks Genie! Since doing this video, I have got myself a mini hotplate and the solder balls. No stencils yet, but i might give hand reballing a go at some point! 😬
***Addendum*** If capacitors test OK once removed and a short still remains, the tracks indicating as a short lead to a chip, then it's that chip that has shorted, only fix is removal and replacement, this board will be a good practice board for you to do your first MANUAL BGA "Search UA-cam for tips on how to manually re-ball..
Don’t know if is needed but, I have some practice repairing iPhone boards, I noticed you jumped to the conclusion there was a short on the back of the cpu, the thing is there is no schematics for it but just based on my experience around the cpu runs usually voltage in the range of 0.8v-1.1v tops, those lines will beep since they mark close to 0 ohm, it doesn’t mean they are shorted, you can verify that by measuring each side of the capacitor and after identifying the side with the highest ohm mark inject 1v 300mah in that side(positive) usually it will drain very little or even nothing, so it’s not shorted, search around inductors they’re more probable to fail since they give power and high amperage to other components. I may have ended up all over the place but the thing I intend to say the most is to avoid messing with the big chips as long as possible, problems often are in the analog components.
Thanks Daniel. I really appreciate the info! I've learnt quite a bit since this video, so I wouldn't make the same mistake again (hopefully!) Thanks again for taking the time to comment with all the information! 👍
Im a new sub and I've been spending some time with some of your clips. In this one im nearly sure that even a working Switch will show shorted caps right below the cpu due to their low impedance. I will test one when i have a chance. So you probably fixed it with the first attempt, but we'll never know because you didn't test it 🤕
Down the road you may want to check the serial number with Nintendo. I purchased one from EBay it came dead not a sign of life and the first thing I did was record the serial number at their site long story short i sent it in and they repaired it for no cost.
It's interesting how different cameras show the switch lite having different colours. On one it's blue, and on the other it's teal, or maybe my colour impaired eyes are playing a trick on me.
I've never-ever done this myself but based on other attempts seen on youtube, not that it would make any diffrence for the outcome, I would have probably preheated the board in oven and then do the actual reflow on the GPU. Anyway good work man, and was really a breath of fresh air to see when things some times don't go as we want them to go and what does it look like when the GPU is floating around the board. :D
@@StezStixFix cheers mate, I had another guy come in begging me to give him my phone number too 🤣 i only realised you had asked a question when I watched the stream back though lol. No worries mate if I can help I definitely will. You're welcome to add me on Facebook if you want to and I can help you on messenger too :)
I suppose you're always gonna get the odd weirdo, as if you're gonna give out your number in a live stream! Excellent, cheers matey. Will find you on Facebook. Much appreciated!
@@StezStixFix haha yeah I knew what he wanted, he wanted to message or call me every 2 minutes as his on call technician 🤣 the thing is if people email me and I think it warrants a reply my phone number is always in the footer of the emails lol. Just accepted the request bud, hopefully I can be of help to you:)
Saw a cheap lite for $50 blue screen on eBay. I think the tiny ass soldering is out of my skill set. Don’t really feel like buying a microscope just yet for my tinkering.
There is a UK lad who does reballing of chips. Maybe you could get in contact with him and you can learn from him. Or just send him this dead board, in the hope he can revive it. I forgot his yt channel name, but tronics fix also send him a board he got fixed. Quite interesting to see
You should get a Handyvac or miniature handheld vacuum cleaner, or a can of canned air at least, and get rid of all the hair and debris before you start inspecting these things.
Your right they have low resistance. Blue screen is usually a hardware faillure of a bga like the nand, cpu, ram. If reflow does not help then you have a donor board. I learned it the same way you did. It is a learning path as Nintendo does not provide schematics.
@@StezStixFix Yeh we've all been there mate, all processors have low resistance/impedance to ground because they are "high" current circuits. Try a no power issue switch or something, good effort on the ic swaps though, for your first time if it is, that's excellent, good luck and keep trying, this is a game of patience and perseverance
@@reacey Thanks Reace, genuinely my first time, so I am quite happy with how it went. I'll keep learning, and the comments I get are really helpful! So, thank you again 😊
Tough break lad! In future test all the caps before diving in ;) Reflowing won't fix a short, but will resolve hairline cracks in the BGA joints. Use more kaptan tape when masking off so you don't blow away commponents, you were lucky this time. To be fair it wasn't going to work again, you tried your best. Might be worth trying to learn some BGA techniques for future fixes, see if you can get that blue screen back again. Just watch the temps :D
Practice? Well. Too much airflow. Too much heat. Wrong nozzle to take off that big of a chip. Also. It’s a good idea if you learn some electronics. I have seen some of your videos now and it’s basically check for shorts and parts cannon. Rule number one is always thou shall check voltages! Understand what’s going on. What could cause these to be pulled down to earth. Was it an external issue or the chip. We don’t know from this video. :)
I saw on another channel, related to graphics cards, that giving them a quick blast with a heatgun can often (at least temporarily) fix them, would this just be down to giving the solder a bit of a "reset"?
What happens is when the guy was attempting this joystickrepair. He probably flexed the board. Cracking some of the solder joints on a key thing. Ram, apu, nand. This also happens if the system itself gets too hot. Melting the solder. Heating melts the solder again. But is always a temp fix. If it works at all. You'd have to clean up the board and chip. Than reball the chip with new solder.
i got mine in my birthday of 2020 november 16 2020 does it have a risk of still having this issue or did they fix it in the newer models of switch lite?
i recently had a BSOD on a swite lite after trying to install a picofly chip in it. i heaped up to much solder in one section of the flex cpu cable when i put it back together it shorted on a cpu cover screen went all pink and pixelated then after turning it off and back on it would bsod every boot... unplugged it from the battery left it overnight and it booted normal again once my mistake was corrected solder wise. i think this BSOD can be many things not just nand related.
These days everything is made cheap. My Super Nintendo which is over 20 years old still works. But consoles today go bad in less than 7 years, my PS3 and XBOX 360 now do not work. They use higher tech and the new systems get hotter, you think they made them more quality parts.
I agree. Although looking at the new Ps5 and xbox, it really does look like they've taken that into account. They look solidly built and there is a way more cooling in there!
Unboxing is may not be what your chanel is about, but when it is your gear, tools and so on, i think it would be cool to see 😉 and I am not into unboxing at all, just curious to lear abot this
Side B(um) oh made me chortle spotting that at 6:24 Nintendo just have no clue when it comes to scatological references, most ppl thought the Wii was a wind up because us anglo-saxon folks use the term for something else and prob a case of yesmanship that no one dared tell Nintendo elite leadership that Wii would entertain western children for decades to come just for the name alone hehehe
Gained so much respect for you after this video. 99% of youtubers will NOT upload a video that's unsuccessful. It's such breath of fresh air to watch a true and honest video, as many of us novice 'repairs' are unable to repair.
Spoilers
@@christophergilley3218 yea i hate spoilers as well
@@christophergilley3218 just don’t read comments before you watched the video done👍
Yeah why do people read comments before finishing videos, of course there is going to be spoilers . People are going to talk about what happen in the video
@@champiion youtube puts 1 comment on top exposes wich you can see without clicking comments
Thermo camera does miracle and pin points exactly what component is causing the short
I really appreciate it when you show the losses along with the wins. As an amateur fix it guy it's nice to see someone not perfect on UA-cam.
You mean someone *admitting* not being perfect. 😉
Great to see an honest attempt at a repair. You've a great attitude to repair, and a great sense of humour to boot.
I do love the humor. It’s just as dry as mine LOL.
Dog hair can simply teleport in. I keep finding hair from my childhood dog in random places and she’s passed on two decades ago in another house entirely.
Cherish it man. I do.
I really appreciate you showing this. I've got interest in screwing around with electronics, but I'm terrified of buying something and not being able to fix it, and just getting completely over my head in something. Thanks for showing that it's okay when things go to hell.
Really appreciate this video. Everyone loves a trier and I learned a lot from watching you do this. I've learned more than watching the pros do a fix. Keep this going - we need more people like you posting like this. Thank you so much.
Thank you, that means a lot. I always find that learning by trial and error is so much better than just following a "how to" video or watching a pro. It makes you focus and think more. Thanks again for your kind words 👍
I was going to say pretty much the exact same thing, but I think you covered it quite nicely already. All I'll say is that I couldn't possibly agree more.
thanks for ruining the result no point on watching now (dont tell me to look at the comments because youtube puts one comment as preview without clicking)
@@Mizai well aren't you just a peach.
@@Mizai So youtubes fault then?
According to other videos I saw, Blue screen in switch v1 model was related to nand corruption, nand chip being broken or nand solder joints being broken. When checking the board around the cpu, gpu and apu cheap multimeters can beep where they should not (low resistance doesn't always meant short) i would rather try to to check the caps in diode mode to. Don't want to upset you, but probably reflow or the reball wasn't needed, still this switch was probably unfixable
Thanks for the feedback! Not upset at all, I didn't think I'd be able to fix it, but I wanted a challenge to put me out of my comfort zone! I'm happy that I got to mess around with removing chips etc,. And I've learnt quite a lot, so I should hopefully improve! ☺ thanks for the tip, re diode mode. I'll give that a go next time! 👍
@@StezStixFix Yeah, keep up. You have a cheap donor board. And as someone said you can practice the reballing
A short on the board requires voltage injection and an IR cam, not random reflow.
I think this is underrated I think if UA-cam were to recommend this more people will subscribe and watch
Thanks Snoosh! I'm hoping they notice me at some point! 😆
@@StezStixFix Hey if i sent you my switch could you fix it? Its all blue literally bricked
Agreed.
Wayyy under-subbed
6:17 haha, side-bum.
Always love your work, become one of my favourite channels to watch.
If it’s any consolation I once took a very expensive Dyson to pieces to “replace the belt”, it didn’t go back together again but at least I tried 🤷🏼. Love the content and honesty nice video…. 🥰
Oh these newer Vacuums are a pain to clean for sure, and I feel ya
They're built to be difficult to impossible to fix, so you need buy a new one every couple of years. They cost as much as an Electrolux, and Electroluxes can be repaired neatly infinitely.
Fascinating video. Steve, I'm bowled over by your patience and perseverance. I've have muttered a few unpleasant words and consigned it to the spares cupboard so much earlier.
I wonder what video you watched? Because the one I watched shows a 🤡 burning a apu and not fixing anything LMFAO pathetic dude
After tinkering with it, I expected him to plug it in and it immediately catches fire and starts the Great UK Fire of 2021
These videos are so inspirational specially after seeing more recent videos of yours where you successfully mend many things. My own mending attempts dont seem so laughable to me as they used to , now I have seen a few menders on youtube and their evolution from trial and error to actual fixers.
Thanks for the link to your underpants... I was looking for some good ones!
I got recommend this and I am pleased. Good job. By the way, caps under CPU have low resistance to ground, they're not actually short.
Thanks. Yeah, I learnt the hard way! But that's how we all learn i guess! 😊
have any diagram or video for making a diagnose for the lite? im like crazy searching
@@pablohdz14 what's the issue? unfortunately there are no public schematics for any game consoles. However, depending on symptoms, we can sometimes track down the problem and fix it! some things arent fixable though :/
Thanks Chase 👍 @Paul, yes it is hard to diagnose, but depending on the issue you can usually narrow it down to a certain IC or area of the console! ☺
I used a quick grip on the GPU once to get a switch to boot from a blue screen. and it worked perfectly.
This is my method now before I apply any heat.
the CPU can't take that much heat,
I know it's late but I really wanted to say this. I think the reason that the usb c ports shield was like that was because it was dropped while plugged in. Not entirely sure though.
I think you might be right. That would also explain why it didn't work! 😁
Those are not shorts. They are simply a very low resistance tracks. And, if you did not know, the multimeter beeper is designed to simply beep once the checked resistance is below 50 Ohms. So anything you test that is below 50 Ohms will beep and this beeper function could be VERY misleading in these kinds of diagnostics. ALWAYS confirm shorts with a simple Ohm resistance function which will show 0 or close to 0 Ohms, not the continuity beeper option.
These APUs, CPUs and GPUs are powered and driven by very small resistance components and tracks. For example, most GPU power phases are around 1 Ohm, so it is pretty much impossible to confirm if the APU/CPU/GPU is shorted. The only way to confirm this is to know the board and resistances on it or have a working board for a comparison.
Bad luck Steve. Not much you can do with a failed Tegra. How you guys work on things so tiny still amazes me!
Thanks Jon, this was a tough one but I learnt loads whilst working on it. I would like to have another go at some point! 👍
Wow, I used to rework (around the time of Xbox RROD) and when I did, I _always_ used a laser rework station (where a insanely strong laser pointed at the die would heat it up) to rework/reflow those bga chips. Good on you for trying with hot air.
Do you dance around with a glow stick while it heats up? 😀
I appreciate your videos, good fun watching you troubleshoot and bring life to these consoles. i watch during downtime at work, gets me excited for when I go home to work on my own electronics projects.
Been binge watching your vids and have been really chuffed with your positive attitude and outcomes. Why not share a link to your secondary channel in case others are interested!
I found it a few weeks ago. ua-cam.com/channels/UFeqnIN_uV1XiemLg3CQZA.html
My first reball scared the shit out of me,but was successful,keep it up.
Hi, Steve. Great video. I had slight hopes you bodge it. And somehow it worked. OH well you got pratice out of it. Stay safe to you and your loved ones.
Rebelling is not hard as you think, just need a little patience and maybe a stencil or two will most definitely help 😊
Biggest mistake Professional Servicemen do when using a Hot Air station is setting their hot Air Stations wind speed insanely beyond 25%.
High airflows are in fact the main reason if not the only reason why Re-balling BGA chips fail, Mind you if those capacitors you checked after the reflow attempt were already shorted, it's a good indicator the chip nearby connected to them needs replacing, Such a small BGA chip BTW can be repaired without a Template if one has a steady hand and a suitable Cheap BGA Jig for it..
Thanks for the feedback, once again! Yeah, it's just so tempting to whack the airflow up! Ill remember that one for next time... I will use the board to practice on, and I've ordered some solder balls so I can give a manual reball a go! 👍
The new microscopes birth! So exciting. It's all grown up now!
It's not about success or failure. It's about the shorts we found along the way.
Love the video knowledge is key never stop learning and being innovative
Thanks 781, really appreciate that! Yeah, you have to keep learning by trying 👍
Love these videos, keep up the good work
21:05 There are 90 balls! This is a lot of balls!
Nice video ,👍
Good practice on trying to solder that chip back, but may I give you a little tip?
Way too much flux used to attempt soldering the CPU back on it was floating on the flux and could not contact the pads that is why you had to boil the flux away before the CPU wanted to stick.
And if that was a working CPU, it would be dead from all that heat you used to try it to stick.
Before soldering the chip back on go over the pads with some solder wick and lay some fresh leaded solder on so that you bring the solder melting temp down, that unleaded shit needs a lot more temp than leaded solder.
As of this one is dead I would practice on it and desolder and resolder it a couple times till you feel comfortable with it.
You should aim to solder it with a shorter time of hot air and try to minimize the temp.
Practise is the only solution.
Great tips, thank you! I will be using it to practice on. What temperature range do you think is best to try out? I guess not 480? 😂
@@StezStixFix Hi, .you can go to 400 ,
With experience you will see if you need the nozzle closer or farther to prevent board or chip damage.
The trick is to put most heat in the board to desolder the chip and not the chip itself.
You can do this by holding the hot-air nozzle at an angle and blow the hot air on half the edge of the chip and half the pcb in a circular motion around the chip.
The air that hits the pcb will bounce partly off the pcb and hit the underside of the chip and the solder do this until the chip is loose.
If you are afraid to blow of small parts around the chip tape them with Kapton tape or some metal shielding to prevent it.
Also, keep in mind the backside of the pcb where the chip is located if there are small resistors ore caps that they don't fall of the board if you put too much heat in the board.
If the chip you desolder is faulty you can go medieval on it as you did, you reduce the risk to damage the board or nearby parts.
To resolder a good chip, clean the solder pads on the board with some flux and desoldering braid , clean whit some IPA , put some fresh flux and add some fresh leaded solder
on the pads not to much else you have a risk of shorts and put the new chip on and solder it in the same way as desoldering in a circle motion.
A little trick before you put that bga chip in place pre-heat the area before placing the chip.
Let the to air melting the solder and not heat up the chip to melt the solder.
Next phase is re ball the chip.😄
Thank you so much for taking the time to post these tips. Some excellent information in there and I will definitely be giving it a go. I guess it's all about the practice - I already feel more confident, and I have only ever tried once! 😊
Truly appreciate for your hard work, sir. I went through 34" to see a failure which made my day better than a BOOM success in last minute tbh.
You need to have your first time for everything keep it up , practice makes perfect
A short can be caused on one side of a board and shown itself across the other. Console boards have insane layering and pathways that we can't even see.
I can tell you're still relatively new to this so keep going! We learn by doing and we sometimes get lucky, often we don't (lol). Keep learning.
Thanks Danny! Yep, that was genuinely the first time I'd ever removed a BGA chip, so I learnt a lot! 👍 Hopefully I'll have more luck next time 😬
@@StezStixFix
No problem! You will have more luck, I'm sure.
The final thing I can add is that it'll usually start to click in chunks. You'll go from having a very basic idea of how any of it works and then one day boards stop looking like a crazy, populated mess and start to make sense. It just clicks. It's hard to explain but you'll likely experience it, too.
It will help to fully understand what each component does in a circuit. That way you'll stop seeing random rows of caps, resistors, etc and start to see design.
"Oh, that's a power supply there and, oh, that's the bridge rectifier"
Pretty soon you'll see that all electronics are made on the same 5 or 6 basic designs: power in, convert AC to DC (if power adapter didn't), filter, upvolt or downvolt, send to chip.
It'll come. Good luck!
@@DannyWilliamH Awesome info, thanks again. I feel like I'm getting there, and definitely starting to understand what components do what. Really enjoying the journey too 😊
I think that is the same model microscope as I have. The Andonstar ADSM302 it looks exactly the same other than that has a different arm. It's a decent microscope for the price and I like the fact it has HDMI out. So you can connect it up to any size screen. I will have to check your unboxing video.
Also I don't know if you already know but the main chip has very low resistance so will cause the meter to beep. Normally one side of the caps will be 0 ohm and the other side about 6-8 ohm. But most meters beep between 0 and 10 ohms.
Its the Andonstar AD407 I think. I've been using it again today, and I'm really happy with the quality of it.
Thanks for the heads up on the caps. I've got another board, so I'll play around with it and see if I can get some readings before I go attacking the CPU again! 👍
@@StezStixFix Ahh it's an upgrade on mine with a 4MP sensor instead of a 3MP sensor. I didn't know they had brought a new microscope out.
You need bottom heater to pre heat the board to not warp it and 0.35 balls and stencil ODNX02-A2 ODNX02 -A2 0.35MM BGA Stencil Template and jig to hold CPU in as reballing it. I like to use aluminum foil instead of the tape, it reflects the heat better off the plastics connectors and have not melted one since.
It is not as hard to reball I did a few of the regular switch and to my surprise first one was successful. I reball xbox360's and laptop gpu's back in the day, do have some experience. I actually going to attempt a lite soon, if can find one at a reasonable price that seller doesn't lie and sent completely water damaged.
Thanks Genie! Since doing this video, I have got myself a mini hotplate and the solder balls. No stencils yet, but i might give hand reballing a go at some point! 😬
In the end the Screen was Brocken 🤣 Good vid 😃
***Addendum***
If capacitors test OK once removed and a short still remains, the tracks indicating as a short lead to a chip, then it's that chip that has shorted, only fix is removal and replacement, this board will be a good practice board for you to do your first MANUAL BGA "Search UA-cam for tips on how to manually re-ball..
Thank you! Will do some research before I go diving in! 😊
Don’t know if is needed but, I have some practice repairing iPhone boards, I noticed you jumped to the conclusion there was a short on the back of the cpu, the thing is there is no schematics for it but just based on my experience around the cpu runs usually voltage in the range of 0.8v-1.1v tops, those lines will beep since they mark close to 0 ohm, it doesn’t mean they are shorted, you can verify that by measuring each side of the capacitor and after identifying the side with the highest ohm mark inject 1v 300mah in that side(positive) usually it will drain very little or even nothing, so it’s not shorted, search around inductors they’re more probable to fail since they give power and high amperage to other components. I may have ended up all over the place but the thing I intend to say the most is to avoid messing with the big chips as long as possible, problems often are in the analog components.
Thanks Daniel. I really appreciate the info! I've learnt quite a bit since this video, so I wouldn't make the same mistake again (hopefully!) Thanks again for taking the time to comment with all the information! 👍
@@StezStixFix no problem I’m digging your videos love the repairs of old handhelds and such, great work, keep on doing it!
Thanks Daniel! 👍
Im a new sub and I've been spending some time with some of your clips. In this one im nearly sure that even a working Switch will show shorted caps right below the cpu due to their low impedance. I will test one when i have a chance. So you probably fixed it with the first attempt, but we'll never know because you didn't test it 🤕
Down the road you may want to check the serial number with Nintendo. I purchased one from EBay it came dead not a sign of life and the first thing I did was record the serial number at their site long story short i sent it in and they repaired it for no cost.
Wow, the images from the microscope are so crisp!
Yeah, it's really clear. Helps me out a lot 👍
Its a learning process still love you,and thank you
What's the link to the microscope unboxing video? 🙂
It's interesting how different cameras show the switch lite having different colours. On one it's blue, and on the other it's teal, or maybe my colour impaired eyes are playing a trick on me.
interesting video, welcome to the microscopic world!
Haha, thank you! 😊
your doing fine, the very principle of repair is to explore and test.😁😁👍👍
Hello I’m french and I watch this video whith the subtitle and you must have more follower on your UA-cam profil !
Merci beaucoup, Téo! 😊👍
When working on the switch, i find 440c is the temp that works best.
Thanks TehAgent, appreciate the advice! 👍
I've never-ever done this myself but based on other attempts seen on youtube, not that it would make any diffrence for the outcome, I would have probably preheated the board in oven and then do the actual reflow on the GPU. Anyway good work man, and was really a breath of fresh air to see when things some times don't go as we want them to go and what does it look like when the GPU is floating around the board. :D
Great video as always mate. Sorry I didn't reply to you on stream earlier, that begger threw me off a little. How's things?
No worries mate, you handled it really well! I'll see you on the next one. You may be able to help me with a couple of questions about BGA reballing 🙃
@@StezStixFix cheers mate, I had another guy come in begging me to give him my phone number too 🤣 i only realised you had asked a question when I watched the stream back though lol. No worries mate if I can help I definitely will. You're welcome to add me on Facebook if you want to and I can help you on messenger too :)
I suppose you're always gonna get the odd weirdo, as if you're gonna give out your number in a live stream! Excellent, cheers matey. Will find you on Facebook. Much appreciated!
@@StezStixFix haha yeah I knew what he wanted, he wanted to message or call me every 2 minutes as his on call technician 🤣 the thing is if people email me and I think it warrants a reply my phone number is always in the footer of the emails lol. Just accepted the request bud, hopefully I can be of help to you:)
@@TheCod3r Awesome, thank you. Don't worry, I won't stalk you 🤣
Holy color-correcting batman
Saw a cheap lite for $50 blue screen on eBay. I think the tiny ass soldering is out of my skill set. Don’t really feel like buying a microscope just yet for my tinkering.
There is a UK lad who does reballing of chips. Maybe you could get in contact with him and you can learn from him.
Or just send him this dead board, in the hope he can revive it. I forgot his yt channel name, but tronics fix also send him a board he got fixed. Quite interesting to see
checking for shorts on a gpu / cpu is futile as these typically have low resistance
Another great vid 😃 keep up the great work 👍
Thank you Bird! 👍
@@StezStixFix no, thank you for thinking about being so nice
There was promise of a link to a second channel. Any chance that unboxing video is still around?
I have watched many of your vids love you ,same boat as me
I need a link to that microscope that super Clear
Hi there. It's this one 👍: amzn.to/2VP3msU
Thank you for responding.
You are the best fixer!)
Possibly it was bad tegra cpu…
Mam nadzieję, że to tylko Twoje hobby! Chociaż jestem początkujący to co zobaczyłem było straszne 😮
Which components do you check for shorts? Capacitors? I'm still new to troubleshooting and want to understand better what you're looking for
Yep, capacitors short, resistors just open.
we've all done it !
You should get a Handyvac or miniature handheld vacuum cleaner, or a can of canned air at least, and get rid of all the hair and debris before you start inspecting these things.
Good attempt, I would have used 480 to 500 degrees, in my experience a reball is the only chance
Nice. You got rid of the blue screen.
1st class video to watch thank you take care kind regards from me kenneth🤐💟👀👍
you like your chips well done then.. why not nice play
so is this where the ebay sellers get their "untested, no power, possible easy fix if you know how" items from?
Nice microscope 🔬
You have more balls than me steve but you are trying 👍
Nice picture Quality do you have a link for the camera
The main camera I use is the Sony ZV1. Or do you mean the Microscope?
@@StezStixFix microscope please thank you for the reply
@@dadwillfixit1907 It's the Andonstar AD407 (www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VK52X9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_12VPFbR7MKEKC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Thank you for your reply mate
@@dadwillfixit1907 You're welcome 👍
Those caps on the back of the cpu have a naturally low resistance to ground
Ah. But yet they didn't short to ground without the CPU in the board 🤔 Please don't tell me I took the CPU off for nothing 🤣
Your right they have low resistance. Blue screen is usually a hardware faillure of a bga like the nand, cpu, ram. If reflow does not help then you have a donor board. I learned it the same way you did. It is a learning path as Nintendo does not provide schematics.
@@StezStixFix Yeh we've all been there mate, all processors have low resistance/impedance to ground because they are "high" current circuits. Try a no power issue switch or something, good effort on the ic swaps though, for your first time if it is, that's excellent, good luck and keep trying, this is a game of patience and perseverance
@@reacey Thanks Reace, genuinely my first time, so I am quite happy with how it went. I'll keep learning, and the comments I get are really helpful! So, thank you again 😊
Tough break lad! In future test all the caps before diving in ;) Reflowing won't fix a short, but will resolve hairline cracks in the BGA joints. Use more kaptan tape when masking off so you don't blow away commponents, you were lucky this time. To be fair it wasn't going to work again, you tried your best. Might be worth trying to learn some BGA techniques for future fixes, see if you can get that blue screen back again. Just watch the temps :D
Thanks! Yeah, I have a tendency to just dive in there! It's all still pretty new to me, and I'm happy I got to do some chip removing practice! 👍
When you have shorts reflowing will not fix it. You start removing chips until the beeping stops.
Love it i watched it till the end and killed it nice haha
Do you need an x-ray diagnostic chip scanner to find the fault in the chip♥️
nice experience.
I would have cleaned board and chip, drown chip with flux and use my iron to add solder to the chip only, basically reballing.
I think the internal storage is corrupted
I wondered about the RAM chips. Do you know if they can be swapped over from another board, or if they are married to each board? 🤔
Oh, do you mean the NAND?
@@StezStixFix Yeah he probably meant the NAND. It isn't swappable
Thanks ZaQrzOny! 👍
Practice? Well. Too much airflow. Too much heat. Wrong nozzle to take off that big of a chip. Also. It’s a good idea if you learn some electronics. I have seen some of your videos now and it’s basically check for shorts and parts cannon. Rule number one is always thou shall check voltages! Understand what’s going on. What could cause these to be pulled down to earth. Was it an external issue or the chip. We don’t know from this video. :)
Yeah. I might mess with smd these days (yay AD407). BGA is completely outside of my skill.
I have a blue screen regular nintendo switch and I found this
Looks like it's quite a common fault with regular Switch and the Switch Lite. 😔
I have a feeling I’m going to massively regret this one……
Bro, I’ve said that many a time in my day 😂😂😂😂
I saw on another channel, related to graphics cards, that giving them a quick blast with a heatgun can often (at least temporarily) fix them, would this just be down to giving the solder a bit of a "reset"?
What happens is when the guy was attempting this joystickrepair. He probably flexed the board. Cracking some of the solder joints on a key thing. Ram, apu, nand. This also happens if the system itself gets too hot. Melting the solder. Heating melts the solder again. But is always a temp fix. If it works at all. You'd have to clean up the board and chip. Than reball the chip with new solder.
Cpu gpu always will beep to ground.
Should have checked resistance to grnd
Where can I send my switch too so u can fix this problem
i got mine in my birthday of 2020 november 16 2020 does it have a risk of still having this issue or did they fix it in the newer models of switch lite?
I think it may still happen if it's dropped. From what i know, it's the solder cracking under the chips that usually causes it!
@@StezStixFix alright ty
i recently had a BSOD on a swite lite after trying to install a picofly chip in it. i heaped up to much solder in one section of the flex cpu cable when i put it back together it shorted on a cpu cover screen went all pink and pixelated then after turning it off and back on it would bsod every boot... unplugged it from the battery left it overnight and it booted normal again once my mistake was corrected solder wise. i think this BSOD can be many things not just nand related.
I watched another youtuber redo the solder balls on a GPU and it didn't look that difficult, just super time consuming.
These days everything is made cheap. My Super Nintendo which is over 20 years old still works. But consoles today go bad in less than 7 years, my PS3 and XBOX 360 now do not work. They use higher tech and the new systems get hotter, you think they made them more quality parts.
I agree. Although looking at the new Ps5 and xbox, it really does look like they've taken that into account. They look solidly built and there is a way more cooling in there!
63 now. Woot woot. But only 4 videos.
Unboxing is may not be what your chanel is about, but when it is your gear, tools and so on, i think it would be cool to see 😉 and I am not into unboxing at all, just curious to lear abot this
My brother got mad he didn't get anything on my birthday and slammed my switch lite against a wall and now it keeps randomly doing the blue screen
What’s the heat gun called?
I'm usind a Quick 651D at the moment. Think the one in this was a budgert Yihua one! 👍
Your Amazon link to your o-scope is incorrect.
great vid
Thanks Wolli! 😀
Side B(um) oh made me chortle spotting that at 6:24 Nintendo just have no clue when it comes to scatological references, most ppl thought the Wii was a wind up because us anglo-saxon folks use the term for something else and prob a case of yesmanship that no one dared tell Nintendo elite leadership that Wii would entertain western children for decades to come just for the name alone hehehe
I think you failed at aiming and when balls already melt you moved the chip. The small one and same with nvidia